At Franckfort, when they rost Wild-boar (or Robuck or other Venison) they
lay it to soak, six or eight or ten days (according to the thickness and
firmness of the piece and Penetrability of it) in good Vinegar, wherein is
Salt and Juniper-berries bruised (if you will, you may add bruised Garlick
or what other _Haut-goust_ you like) the Vinegar coming up half way the
flesh, and turn it twice a day. Then if you will, you may Lard it.
When it is rosted, it will be very mellow and tender. They do the like with
a leg or other part of Fresh-pork.
PYES
I made good Pyes there with two Hares, a good Goose and (as much as the
Goose is) the lean of fresh good Pork, all well hashed and seasoned; then
larded with great Lardons well seasoned (first sprinkled with Vinegar and
Wine) and covered with Bay-leaves, and sheets of Lard; then laid inpast,
and baked.
I made also good Pyes of Red-Deer, larding well the lean, then laying
under it a thick Plastron (or Cake of a Finger thick) of Beef-suet, first
chapped small, and seasoned well with Pepper and Salt, then beaten into a
Cake fit for the meat. And another such Cake upon the Deers-flesh, and so
well baked in strong crust, and soaked two or three hours in the oven after
it was baked enough, which required six good hours. If you use no Suet, put
in Butter enough; as also, put in enough to fill the paste, after it is
baked and half cold, by a hole made in the top, when it is near half baked.
BAKED VENISON
My Lady of Newport bakes her Venison in a dish thus; A side or a hanch
serves for two dishes. Season it as for a Pasty. Line the dish with a thin
crust, of good pure Past, but make it pretty thick upwards towards the
brim, that it may be there Pudding crust. Lay then the Venison in a round
piece upon the Paste in the dish, that must not fill it up to touch the
Pudding, but lie at ease; put over it a cover, and let it over-reach upon
the brim with some carved Pasty work to grace it, which must go up with a
border like a lace growing a little way upwards upon the Cover, which is a
little arched up, and hath a little hole in the top to pour in unto the
meat the strong well seasoned broth that is made of the broken bones, and
remaining lean flesh of the Venison. Put a little pure Butter or Beef-suet
to the Venison, before you put the cover on, unless it be exceeding fat.
This must bake five or six hours or more as an ordinary Pasty. An hour, or
an hour and half before you take it out to serve it up, open the Oven, and
draw out the dish far enough to pour in at the little hole of the cover the
strong decoction (in stead of decoction in water, you may boil it by it
self in _Balneo in duplici vase_; or bake it in a pot with broth and Gravy
of Mutton) of the broken bones and flesh. Then set it in again, to make an
end of his baking and soaking. The meat within (even the lean) will be
exceeding tender and like a gelly; so that you may cut all of it with a
spoon. If you bake a side at once in two dishes, the one will be very good
to keep cold; and when it is so, you may, if you please, bake it again, to
have it hot; not so long as at first, but enough to have it all perfectly
heated through. She bakes thus in Pewter-dishes of a large cise.
Mutton or Veal may be thus baked with their due seasoning; as with Onions,
or Onions and Apples, or Larding, or a Cawdle, &c. Sweetbreads, Beatilles,
Champignons, Treuffles, &c.
AN EXCELLENT WAY OF MAKING MUTTON STEAKS
Cut a Rack of Mutton into tender Steaks, Rib by Rib, and beat the flesh
well with the back of a Knife. Then have a composition ready, made of
Crumbs of stale Manchet grated small, and a little Salt (a fit proportion
to Salt the meat) and a less quantity of White-pepper. Cover over on both
sides all the flesh with this, pretty thick, pressing it on with your
fingers and flat Knife, to make it lie on. Then lay the Steaks upon a
Gridiron over a very quick fire (for herein consisteth the well doing) and
when the fire hath pierced in a little on the one side, turn the other,
before any juyce drop down through the Powder. This turning the steaks will
make the juyce run back the other way; and before it run through, and drop
through this side, you must turn again the other side; doing so till the
Steaks be broiled enough. Thus you keep all the juyce in them, so that when
you go to eat them (which must be presently, as they are taken from the
fire) abundance of juyce runneth out as soon as your Knife entereth into
the flesh. The same Person, that doth this, rosteth a Capon so as to keep
all its juyce in it. The mystery of it is in turning it so quick, that
nothing can drop down. This maketh it the longer in rosting. But when you
cut it up, the juyce runneth out, as out of a juycie leg of Mutton; and it
is excellent meat.
EXCELLENT GOOD COLLOPS
Take two legs of fleshy juycie tender young Mutton, cut them into as thin
slices as may be. Beat them with the back of a thick Knife, with smart, but
gentle blows, for a long time, on both sides. And the stroaks crossing one
another every way, so that the Collops be so short, that they scarce hang
together. This quantity is near two hours beating. Then lay them in a clean
frying-pan, and hold them over a smart fire: And it is best to have a fit
cover for the Pan, with a handle at the top of it, to take it off when you
will. Let them fry so covered, till the side next the Pan be done enough;
then turn the other side, and let that fry, till it be enough. Then Pour
them with all the Gravy (which will be much) into a hot dish, which cover
with another hot one, and so serve it in to eat presently. You must season
the Collops with Salt sprinkled upon them, either at the latter end of
beating them, or whiles they fry. And if you love the taste of Onions, you
may rub the Pan well over with one, before you lay in the Steaks or
Collops; or when they are in the dish, you may beat some Onion-water
amongst the Gravy. You may also put a little fresh-butter into the pan to
melt, and line it all over before you put in the Collops, that you may be
sure, they burn not to the pan. You must put no more Collops into one pan,
at once, then meerly to cover it with one Lare; that the Collops may not
lye one upon another.
BLACK PUDDINGS
Take three pints of Cream, and boil it with a Nutmeg quartered, three or
four leaves of large Mace, and a stick of Cinnamon. Then take half a pound
of Almonds, beat them and strain them with the Cream. Then take a few fine
Herbs, beat them and strain them to the Cream, which came from the Almonds.
Then take two or three spoonfuls (or more) of Chickens blood; and two or
three spoonfuls of grated-bread, and the Marrow of six or seven bones, with
Sugar and Salt, and a little Rose-water. Mix all together, and fill your
Puddings. You may put in eight or ten Eggs, with the whites of two
well-beaten. Put in some Musk or Ambergreece.
TO MAKE PITH PUDDINGS
Take a good quantity of the pith of Oxen, and let it lie all night in water
to soak out the blood. The next morning, strip it out of the skin, and so
beat it with the back of a spoon, till it be as fine as Pap: You must beat
a little Rose-water with it. Then take three pints of good thick Cream, and
boil it with a Nutmeg quartered, three or four leaves of large Mace; and a
stick of Cinnamon. Then take half a pound of the best Jordan Almonds.
Blanch them in cold water all night; then beat them in a Mortar with some
of your Cream; and as they grow dry, still put in more Cream; and when they
be well beaten, strain the Cream from the Almonds into the Pith. Then beat
them still, until the Cream be done, and strain it still to the pith. Then
take the yolks of ten Eggs, with the Whites of two; beat them well, and put
them to your former Ingredients. Then take a spoonful of grated-bread.
Mingle all these together, with half a pound of fine-sugar, the Marrow of
six or seven bones, and some Salt, and so fill your Puddings.
They will be much the better, if you put in some Ambergreece.
RED-HERRINGS BROYLED
My Lord d'Aubigny eats Red-herrings thus broiled. After they are opened and
prepared for the Gridiron, soak them (both sides) in Oyl and Vinegar beaten
together in pretty quantity in a little Dish. Then broil them, till they
are hot through, but not dry. Then soak them again in the same Liquor as
before, and broil them a second time. You may soak and broil them again a
third time; but twice may serve. They will be then very short and crisp and
savoury. Lay them upon your Sallet, and you may also put upon it, the Oyl
and Vinegar, you soaked the Herrings in.
AN OAT-MEAL-PUDDING
Take a Pint of Milk; and put to it a Pint of large or midling Oat-meal; let
it stand upon the fire, until it be scalding hot: Then let it stand by and
soak about half an hour: Then pick a few sweet Herbs and shred them, and
put in half a pound of Currants, and half a pound of Suet, and about two
spoonfuls of Sugar, and three or four Eggs. These put into a bag, and
boiled, do make a very good Pudding.
TO MAKE PEAR-PUDDINGS
Take a cold Capon, or half-rosted, which is much better; then take Suet,
shred very small the meat and Suet together; then half as much grated
bread, two spoonfuls of Flower, Nutmegs, Clove and Mace; Sugar as much as
you please; half a Pound of Currants; the yolks of two Eggs, and the white
of one; and as much Cream, as will make it up in a stiff Paste. Then make
it up in fashion of a pear, a stick of Cinnamon for the stalk, and the head
a Clove.
TO MAKE CALL-PUDDINGS
Take three Marrow-bones, slice them; water the Marrow over night, to take
away the blood. Then take the smallest of the Marrow, and put it into the
Puddings, with a Peny-loaf grated, a spoonful of Flower, and Spice as
before; a quarter of a pound of Currants; Sugar as much as you please, four
Eggs, two of the whites taken away. Cream as much as will make it as stiff
as other Puddings. Stuff the Call of Veal cut into the bigness of little
Hogs-puddings; you must sow them all to one end; and so fill them; then
sow up the other end, and when they are boiled, take hold of the thred, and
they will all come out. You must boil them in half white Wine and half
Water; with one large Mace, a few Currants, a spoonful of the Pudding
stuff, the Marrow in whole lumps; all this first boiled up, then put in
your Puddings, and when half boiled, put in your Marrow. One hour will boil
them. Serve them up with Sippets, and no more Liquor, then will serve them
up; you must put Salt in all the Puddings.
A BARLEY PUDDING
Take two Ounces of Barley pick'd and washed; boil it in Milk, till it is
tender; then let your Milk run from it; Then take half a Pint of Cream, and
six spoonfuls of the boiled Barley; eight spoonfuls of grated bread, four
Eggs, two whites taken away. Spice as you please, and Sugar and Salt as you
think fit, one Marrow-bone, put in the lumps as whole as you can; Then make
Puff-paste, and rowl a thin sheet of it, and lay it in a dish. Then take a
piece of Green-citron sliced thin, lay it all over the dish. Then take
Cream, grated bread, your Spice, Sugar, Eggs and Salt; beat all these very
well together half a quarter of an hour, pour it on your dish where Citron
is, then cover it over with puff-paste, and let it bake in a quick oven
three quarters of an hour. Scrape Sugar on it, and serve it up.
A PIPPIN-PUDDING
Take Pippins and pare, and cut off the tops of them pretty deep. Then take
out as much of your Apple as you can take without breaking your Apple,
then fill your Apple with pudding-stuff, made with Cream, a little Sack,
Marrow, Grated bread, Eggs, Sugar, Spice and Salt; Make it pretty stiff.
Put it into the Pippins; lay the tops of the Pippins upon the Pippins
again, stick it through with a stick of Cinnamon. Set as many upright in
your dish as you can: and so fill it up with Cream, and sweeten it with
Sugar and Mace; and stew them between two dishes.
TO MAKE A BAKED OATMEAL-PUDDING
Take middle Oat-meal, pick it very clean, steep it all night in Cream, half
a Pint of Oat-meal, to a quart of Cream, make your Cream scalding hot,
before you put in your Oat-meal, so cover it close. Take a good handful of
Penny-royal, shred it very small, with a pound of Beef-suet. Put it to your
Cream with half a pound of Raisins of the Sun, Sugar, Spice, four or five
Eggs, two whites away. So bake it three quarters of an hour; and then serve
it up.
A PLAIN QUAKING-PUDDING
Take about three Pints of new morning Milk, and six or seven new laid Eggs,
putting away half the whites, and two spoonfuls of fine-flower, about a
quarter of a Nutmeg grated, and about a quarter of a pound of Sugar (more
or less, according to your taste,) After all these are perfectly mingled
and incorporated together, put the matter into a fit bag, and so put it
into boiling water, and boil it up with a quick fire. If you boil it too
long, the Milk will turn to whay in the body or substance of the Pudding,
and there will be a slimy gelly all about the outside. But in about half an
hour, it will be tenderly firm, and of an uniform consistence all over.
You need not put in any Butter or Marrow or Suet, or other Spice, but the
small proportion of Nutmeg set down, not grated bread. For the Sauce, you
pour upon it thickened melted Butter, beaten with a little Sack, or
Orange-flower water, and Sugar; or compounded in what manner you please, as
in other such like Puddings.
A GOOD QUAKING BAG-PUDDING
Set a quart of good morning Milk upon the fire, having seasoned it with
Salt, and sliced or grated Nutmeg. When it beginneth to boil, take it from
the fire, and put into it four peny Manchets of light French-bread sliced
very thin (If it were Kingstone-bread, which is firmer, it must be grated)
and a lump of Sweet-butter as big as a Wall-nut, and enough Sugar to season
it; and cover the possnet with a plate to keep the heat in, that the bread
may soak perfectly. Whiles this standeth thus, take ten yolks of
New-laid-eggs, with one White, and beat them very well with a spoonful or
two of Milk; and when the Milk is cooled enough, pour it (with the bread in
it,) into the bason, where the beaten Eggs are, (which likewise should
first be sweetned with Sugar to their proportion,) and put about three
spoonfuls of fine flower into the composition, and knead them well
together. If you will, you may put in a spoonful of Sack or Muscadine, and
Ambared Sugar, working all well together; as also, some lumps of Marrow or
Suet shred very small: but it will be very good without either of these.
Then put this mixtion into a deep Woodden dish (like a great Butter-box)
which must first be on the inside a little greased with Butter, and a
little Flower sprinkled thereon, to save the Pudding from sticking to the
sides of the dish. Then put a linnen cloth or handkercher over the mouth of
the dish, and reverse the mouth downwards, so that you may tye the Napkin
close with two knots by the corners cross, or with a strong thred, upon the
bottom of the dish, then turned upwards; all which is, that the matter may
not get out, and yet the boiling water get through the linnen upon it on
one side enough to bake the pudding sufficiently. Put the Woodden-dish thus
filled and tyed up into a great Possnet or little Kettle of boiling water.
The faster it boils, the better it will be. The dish will turn and rowl up
and down in the water, as it gallopeth in boiling. An hours boiling is
sufficient. Then unty your linnen, and take it off, and reverse the mouth
of the dish downwards into the Silver-dish you will serve it up in; wherein
is sufficient melted Butter thickened with beating, and sweetened to your
taste with Sugar, to serve for Sauce. You may beat a little Sack or
Muscadine, or Rose, or Orange-flower-water with the Sauce; a little of any
of which may also go into the Composition of the Pudding. If you put in
more Flower, or more then one white of Egg to this proportion, it will
binde the Pudding too close and stiff.
In plain Bag-puddings it makes them much more savoury, to put into them a
little Penny-royal shreded very small, as also other sweet-Herbs. You must
put in so little, as not to taste strong of them, but onely to quicken the
other flat Ingredients.
ANOTHER BAKED PUDDING
Take a Pint and half of good Sweet-cream; set it on the fire, and let it
just boil up, take a peny Manchet, not too new, cut off the crust, and
slice it very thin, put it into a clean earthen pan, and pour the Cream
upon it, and cover it very close an hour or thereabouts, to steep the
bread; when it is steeped enough, take four New laid-eggs, yolks and
whites, beat them with a spoonful of Rose-water, and two of Sack; grate
into it half a Nutmeg, and put into it a quarter of a pound of good
white-Sugar finely beaten, stir all this together with the Cream and Bread;
then shred very small half a pound of good Beef-kidney-suet, and put this
to the rest, and mingle them very well together with a slice or spoon; then
size your dish, that you intend to bake it in, and rub the bottom of it
with a little sweet-Butter; then put your pudding into it, and take the
Marrow of two good bones, and stick it in lumps here and there all over
your Pudding; so put it into the oven three quarters of an hour, in which
time it will be well baked. Strew on it some fine Sugar, and serve it.
TO MAKE BLACK PUDDINGS
Take a pottle of half-cut Groats; pick them clean, that there may be no
husks nor foulness in them; then put them into a Mortar, bruise them a
little with a Pestle; then have ready either Milk, or fresh meat-broth
boiled up, and the Oat-meal immediately put into it; It must be just so
much as will cover it; then cover the thing close that it is in, and let it
steep twenty four hours; To this two quarts of Oatmeal, put a pint and
half of blood, season it well with Salt, and a little Pepper, and a little
beaten Cloves and Mace, eight Eggs, yolks and whites, five pound of
Kidney-beef-suet shred, but not too small; then put in of these herbs;
Peny-royal, Fennel, Leek-blades, Parsley, Sage, Straw-berry-leaves and
Violet leaves, equal parts, in all to the quantity of a good handful; let
them be pick'd and washed very clean, and chop'd very small, and mingled
well with the former things; Then fill your Puddings.
Make ready your guts in this manner. Cleanse them very well, when they are
fresh taken out of the Hog; and after they are well washed and scowred, lay
them to soak in fair water three days and three nights, shifting the water
twice every day: and every time you shift the water, scour them first with
Water and Salt. An hour and a quarter is enough to boil them.
TO PRESERVE PIPPINS IN JELLY, EITHER IN QUARTERS, OR IN SLICES
Take good sound clear Pippins, pare, quarter and coar them; then put them
into a skillet of Conduit-water, such a proportion as you intend to make;
boil it very well: then let the liquor run from the pulp through a sieve,
without forcing, and let it stand till the next morning. Take Orange or
Limon peel, and boil in a skillet of water, till they are tender; then rowl
them up in a linnen cloth to dry the water well out of them; let them lie
so all night. Then take of double refined and finely beaten and searced
Sugar a pound to every pint of Pippin Liquor that ran through the sieve,
and to every pound of Sugar, and pint of liquor, put ten Ounces of Pippins
in quarters or in slices, but cut them not too thin; boil them a little
while very fast in the Pippin-liquor, before you put in the Sugar, then
strew in the Sugar all over them as it boileth, till it is all in, keeping
it still fast boiling, until they look very clear; by that you may know
they are enough. While they boil, you must still be scumming them; then put
in your juyce of Limon to your last, and Amber, if you please; and after
let it boil half a dozen walms, but no more. Then take it from the fire,
and have ready some very thin Brown-paper, and clap a single sheet close
upon it, and if any scum remain, it will stick to the Paper. Then put your
quarters or slices into your Glasses, and strew upon them very small slices
of Limon or Orange (which you please) which you had before boiled; then
fill up your Glasses with your jelly.
For making your Pippin-liquor, you may take about some fourty Pippins to
two quarts of water, or so much as to make your Pippin-liquor strong of the
Pippins, and the juyce of about four Limons.
MY LADY DIANA PORTER'S SCOTCH COLLOPS
Cut a leg or two of Mutton into thin slices, which beat very well. Put them
to fry over a very quick fire in a pan first glased over, with no more
Butter melted in it, then just to besmear a little all the bottom of the
Pan. Turn them in due time. There must never be but one row in the pan, nor
any slice lying upon another; but every one immediate to the pan. When they
are fryed enough, lay them in a hot dish covered, over a Chafing-dish, and
pour upon them the Gravy that run out of them into the Pan. Then lay
another row of slices in the Pan to fry as before; and when they are
enough, put them into the dish to the other. When you have enough, by such
repetitions, or by doing them in two or three pans, all at a time; take a
Porrenger full of Gravy of Mutton, and put into it a piece of Butter as
much a Wall-nut, and a quartered Onion if you will (or rub the dish
afterwards with Garlike) and Pepper and Salt, and let this boil to be very
hot; then throw away the Onion, and pour this into the dish upon the
slices, and let them stew a little together; then squeese an Orange upon
it, and serve it up.
A FRICACEE OF VEAL
Cut a leg of Veal into thin slices, and beat them; or the like with
Chicken, which must be flead off their skin. Put about half a pint of water
or flesh-broth to them in a frying-pan, and some Thyme, and Sweet-marjoram,
and an Onion or two quartered, and boil them till they be tender, having
seasoned them with Salt, and about twenty Corns of whole white Pepper, and
four or five Cloves. When they are enough, take half a pint of White wine,
four yolks of Eggs, a quarter of a pound of butter (or more) a good
spoonful of Thyme, Sweet-Marjoram and Parsley (more Parsley then of the
others) all minced small; a Porrenger full of gravy. When all these are
well incorporated together over the fire, and well beaten, pour it into the
pan to the rest, and turn it continually up and down over the fire, till
all be well incorporated. Then throw away the Onion and first sprigs of
Herbs, squeese Orange to it, and so serve it up hot.
If instead of a Fricacee, you will make _un estuveé de veau_, stew or boil
simpringly your slices of Veal in White-wine and water, _ana_, with a good
lump of Butter, seasoning it with Pepper and Salt and Onions. When it is
enough, put to it store of yolks of Eggs beaten with Verjuyce, or
White-wine and Vinegar, and some Nutmeg (and gravy if you will) and some
Herbs as in the Fricacee; and stir all very well over the fire till the
sauce be well _lié_ together.
A TANSY
Take three pints of Cream, fourteen New-laid-eggs (seven whites put away)
one pint of juyce of Spinage, six or seven spoonfuls of juyce of Tansy, a
Nutmeg (or two) sliced small, half a pound of Sugar, and a little Salt.
Beat all these well together, then fryit in a pan with no more Butter then
is necessary. When it is enough, serve it up with juyce of Orange or slices
of Limon upon it.
TO STEW OYSTERS
Take what quantity you will of the best Oysters to eat raw. Open them,
putting all their water with the fish into a bason. Take out the Oysters
one by one (that you may have them washed clean in their own water) and lay
them in the dish you intend to stew them in. Then let their water run upon
them through a fine linnen, that all their foulness may remain behind. Then
put a good great lump of Butter to them, which may be (when melted) half as
much, as their water. Season them with Salt, Nutmeg, and a very few
Cloves. Let this boil smartly, covered. When it is half boiled, put in some
crusts of light French-bread, and boil on, till all be enough, and then
serve them up.
You may put in three or four grains of Ambergreece, when you put in the
Nutmeg, that in the boiling it may melt. You may also put in a little
White-wine or Verjuyce at the last, or some juyce of Orange.
TO DRESS LAMPREY'S