fresh Beef also, for those whose Stomacks can digest it. Cut a neck of
Mutton, Crag-end and all into steaks (which you may beat, if you will; but
they will be very tender without beating) and in the mean time prepare your
water to boil in a Possnet, (which must be of a convenient bigness to have
water enough, to cover the meat, and serve all the stewing it, without
needing to add any more to it; and yet no superfluous water at last.) Put
your meat into the boiling water, and when you have scummed it clean, put
into it a good handful of Parsley, and as much of Sibboulets (young Onions
or Sives) chopped small, if you like to eat them in substance; otherwise
tied up in a bouquet, to throw them away, when they have communicated to
the water all their taste; some Pepper; three or four Cloves, and a little
Salt, and half a Limon first pared. These must stew or boil simpringly,
(covered) at least three or four hours (a good deal more, if Beef)
stirring it often, that it burn not too. A good hour before you intend to
take it off, put some quartered Turneps to it, or, if you like them, some
Carrots. A while after, take a good lump of Houshold-bread, bigger than
your fist, crust and crum, broil it upon a Gridiron, that it be throughly
rosted; scrape off the black burning on the on side; then soak it throughly
in Vinegar, and put this lump of tost into your possnet to stew with it;
which you take out and throw away after a while. About a quarter of an hour
before you serve it up melt a good lump of Butter (as much as a great Egg)
till it grow red; then take it from the fire, and put to it a little fine
flower to thicken it (about a couple of spoonfuls) like thick Pap. Stir
them very well together; then set them on the fire again, till it grow-red,
stirring it all the while; then put to it a ladleful of the liquor of the
pot, and let them stew a while together to incorporate, stirring it always.
Then pour this to the whole substance in the Possnet, to Incorporate with
all the liquor, and so let them stew a while together. Then pour it out of
the possnet into your dish, meat and all: for it will be so tender, it will
not endure taking up piece by piece with your hand. If you find the taste
not quick enough, put into it the juyce of the half Limon, you reserved.
For I should have said, that when you put in the Herbs, you squeese in also
the juyce of half a Limon (pared from the yellow rinde, which else would
make it bitter) and throw the pared and squeesed half (the substance) into
it afterwards. The last things (of Butter, bread, flower) cause the
liaison and thickening of the liquor. If this should not be enough, you may
also put a little gravy of Mutton into it; stirring it well when it is in,
least it curdle in stewing, or you may put the yolk of an Egg or two to
your liaison of Butter, Flower, and ladleful of broth. For gravy of Mutton.
Rost a juycy leg of Mutton three quarters. Then gash it in several places,
and press out the juyce by a screw-press.
A SAVOURY AND NOURISHING BOILED CAPON DEL CONTE DI TRINO, À MILANO
Take a fat and fleshy Capon, or a like Hen; Dress it in the ordinary
manner, and cleanse it within from the guts, &c. Then put in the fat again
into the belly, and split the bones of the legs and wings (as far as you
may, not to deface the fowl) so as the Marrow may distil out of them. Add a
little fresh Butter and Marrow to it; season it with Salt, Pepper, and,
what other Spice you like, as also savoury herbs. Put the Capon with all
these condiments into a large strong sound bladder of an Ox (first well
washed and scoured with Red-wine) and tie it very close and fast to the
top, that nothing may ouse out, nor any water get in (and there must be
void space in the bladder, that the flesh may have room to swell and
ferment in; therefore it must be a large one). Put this to boil for a
couple of hours in a Kettle of water, or till you find by touching the
Bladder, that the Capon is tender and boiled enough. Then serve it up in a
dish, in the Bladder (dry wiped) which when you cut, you will find a
precious and nourishing liquor to eat with bread, and the Capon will be
short, tender, most savoury and full of juyce, and very nourishing.
I conceive, that if you put enough Ox-marrow, you need no butter; and that
it may do well to add Ambergreece, Dates-sliced and pithed, Raisins,
Currants, and a little Sugar.
Peradventure this might be done well in a Silver-flagon close luted, set in
_Balneo bulliente_, as I make the nourishing broth or gelly of Mutton or
Chickens, &c.
AN EXCELLENT BAKED PUDDING
Slice thin two peny-roles, or one, of French-bread, the tender part. Lay it
in a dish or pan. Pour upon it a quart of Cream, that hath been well
boiled. Let it stand almost half an hour, till it be almost cold. Then stir
the bread and Cream very well together, till the bread be well broken and
Incorporated. (If you have no French bread, take stale Kingston bread,
grated) add to this two spoonfuls of fine Wheat-flower, the yolks of four
Eggs, and the whites of two; a Nutmeg--grated small; Sugar to your tast; a
little Salt, and the Marrow of two bones a little shreded. Stir all these
together; then pour it into a dish greased over with Butter, and set it
uncovered in the Oven to bake. About half an hour will serve, and give the
top a yellow crispiness. Before you put in the Marrow, put in a quarter of
a pound and a half of Raisins of the Sun, and as much of Currants; Ordering
them so, that they may not fall to the bottom, but be all about the
pudding.
MY LADY OF PORTLAND'S MINCED PYES
Take four pounds of Beef, Veal or Neats-Tongues, and eight pounds of Suet;
and mince both the meat and Suet very small, befor you put them together.
Then mingle them well together and mince it very small, and put to it six
pounds of Currants washed and picked very clean. Then take the Peel of two
Limons, and half a score of Pippins, and mince them very small. Then take
above an Ounce of Nutmegs, and a quarter of an Ounce of Mace, some Cloves
and Cinnamon, and put them together, and sweeten them with Rose-water and
Sugar. And when you are ready to put them into your Paste, take Citron and
Orangiadoe, and slice them very thin, and lay them upon the meat. If you
please, put dates upon the top of them. And put amongst the meat an Ounce
of Caraway seeds. Be sure you have very fine Paste.
My Lady of Portland told me since, that she finds Neats-tongues to be the
best flesh for Pies. Parboil them first. For the proportion of the
Ingredients she likes best to take equal parts of flesh, of suet, of
currants and of Raisins of the Sun. The other things in proportion as is
said above. You may either put the Raisins in whole, or stone the greatest
part, and Mince them with the Meat. Keep some whole ones, to lay a bed of
them at the top of the Pye, when all is in. You will do well to stick the
Candid Orange-peel, and green Citron-peel into the meat. You may put a
little Sack or Greek Muscadine into each Pye. A little Amber-sugar doth
well here. A pound of flesh, and proportionably of all things else, is
enough for once in a large family.
ANOTHER WAY OF MAKING EXCELLENT MINCED PYES OF MY LADY PORTLANDS
Parboil Neats-tongues. Then Peel and hash them with as much as they weigh
of Beef-suet, and stoned Raisins and picked Currants. Chop all exceeding
small, that it be like Pap. Employ therein at least an hour more, then
ordinarily is used. Then mingle a very little Sugar with them, and a little
wine, and thrust in up and down some thin slices of green Candyed
Citron-peel. And put this into coffins of fine light well reared crust.
Half an hour baking will be enough. If you strew a few Carvi comfits on the
top, it will not be amiss.
MINCED PYES
My Lady Lasson makes her finest minced Pyes of Neats-tongues; But she
holdeth the most savoury ones to be of Veal and Mutton equal parts very
small minced. Her finest crust is made by sprinkling the flower (as much as
it needeth) with cold water, and then working the past with little pieces
of raw Butter in good quantity. So that she useth neither hot water, nor
melted butter in them; And this makes the crust short and light. After all
the meat and seasoning, and Plums and Citron Peel, &c. is in the Coffin,
she puts a little Ambered-sugar upon it, thus; Grind much two grains of
Ambergreece and half a one of Musk, with a little piece of hard loaf Sugar.
This will serve six or eight pyes, strewed all over the top. Then cover it
with the Liddle, and set it in the oven.
TO ROST FINE MEAT
When the Capon, Chickens, or Fowl, have been long enough before the fire,
to be through hot, and that it is time to begin to baste them: baste them
once all over very well with fresh Butter; then presently powder it all
over very thin with Flower. This by continuing turning before the fire,
will make a thin crust, which will keep in all the juyce of the meat.
Therefore baste no more, nor do any thing to it, till the meat be enough
rosted. Then baste it well with Butter as before, which will make the crust
relent and fall away; which being done, and that the meat is growing brown
on the Out-side, besprinkle it over with a little ordinary white Salt in
gross-grains; and continue turning, till the outside be brown enough.
The Queen useth to baste such meat with yolks of fresh Eggs beaten thin,
which continue to do all the while it is rosting.
SAVOURY COLLOPS OF VEAL
Cut a Leg of Veal into thin Collops, and beat them well with the back of a
Knife. Then lay them in soak a good half hour in the yolks of four eggs,
and the whites of two very well beaten, and a little small shreded Thyme
mingled with it; then lay them in the Frying-pan, wherein is boiling
Butter, and pour upon them the rest of the Eggs, that the Collops have not
Imbibed, and carry with them, and fry them very well, turning them in due
time. Then pour away all the Butter, and make them a Sauce of Gravy
seasoned with Salt and Spice, and juyce of Orange at last squeesed upon
them.
A FRICACEE OF LAMB-STONES, OR SWEET-BREADS, OR CHICKEN, OR VEAL, OR MUTTON
Boil the meat in little pieces (if Chicken, flead and beaten) in the Pan
with a pint of fair-water, with due seasoning. When it is very tender, put
some Butter to it, and pour upon it a Liquor made of four yolks of Eggs
beaten with a little white wine and some Verjuyce; and keep this in motion
over the fire, till it be sufficiently thickened. Then pour it into a warm
dish, and squeese some juyce of Orange upon it, and so serve it up. If you
would have the meat first made brown and _Rissolé_, fry it first with
Butter, till it be brown on the outside; then pour out all the Butter, and
put water to it, in which boil it, and do all as before. If you like Onions
or Garlike, you may put some to the water. Fresh broth may be used (both
ways) instead of water, and maketh it more Savoury.
A NOURISHING HACHY
Take good Gravy of Mutton or Veal, or of both, with the fat clean skimmed
off. Break into it a couple of new-laid Eggs, and stir them in it over a
Chafing-dish of Coals; in the mean time, mingle some small cut juycy hashy
of Rabet, Capon or Mutton with another parcel of like Gravy as above, till
it be pretty thin. Then put this to the other upon the fire, and stir them
well with a spoon, whiles they heat. When all is heated through, it will
quicken of a sudden. You may put in at first a little chipping of crusty
bread, if you will. Season this with white Pepper, Salt, juyce of Orange or
Verjuyce, of Berberies, or Onion, or what you like best.
A pint of Gravy (or less) four or five spoonfulls of hashy, and two Eggs,
is a convenient proportion for a light Supper.
Such Gravy, with an Onion split in two, lying in it, whiles it is heating,
and a little Pepper and Salt, and juyce of Limon or Orange, and a few
Chippings of light-bread, is very good Sauce for Partridges or Cocks.
EXCELLENT MARROW-SPINAGE-PASTIES
Take Spinage, and chop it a little; then boil it, till it be tender. In the
mean time make the best rich light Crust you can, and roul it out, and put
a little of your Spinage into it, and Currants and Sugar, and store of
lumps of Marrow; Clap the Past over this to make little Pasties deep
within, and fry them with clarified Butter.
TO PICKLE CAPONS MY LADY PORTLAND'S WAY
Take two large fleshy Capons, not too fat; when you have draw'd and trussed
them, lay them upon a Chafing-dish of Charcoal to singe them, turning them
on all sides, till the hair and down be clean singed off. Then take three
pounds of good Lard, and cut it into larding pieces, about the thickness of
a two-peny cord, and Lard it well, but first season your bits of Lard, with
half an Ounce of Pepper, and a handful of Salt, then bind each of them well
over with Pack-thread, and have ready over the fire about two Gallons of
Beef-broth, and put them in a little before it boileth; when they boil, and
are clean skimmed, then put in some six Bay-leaves; a little bunch of
Thyme; two ordinary Onions stuck full of Cloves, and Salt, if it be not
Salt enough already for pickle; when it hath boiled about half an hour, put
in another half Ounce of beaten White-Pepper, and a little after, put in a
quart of White-wine; So let it boil, until it hath boiled in all an hour;
and so let it lie in the pickle till you use it; which you may do the next
day, or any time within a fortnight; in stead of broth you may use water,
which is better; in case you do four or six, which of themselves will make
the pickle strong enough. If you will keep them above four days, you must
make the pickle sharp with Vinegar.
VERY GOOD SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGES OR CHICKEN
To ordinary Sauce of sliced or grated-bread soaked in good Bouillon, with
Butter melted in it, put Gravy of Mutton, and a Cloven-Onion or two, to
stew with it whiles you put it upon the fire to heat anew. Then take out
the Onion, and put in some Limon sliced, or juyce of Limon, and some white
Pepper. You put in his proportion of Salt before.
TO MAKE MINCED PYES
Take two Neats-tongues, and boil them. Shred them with Beef-suet, and put
in Cloves and Mace, beaten very small, with Raisins, Currants and Sugar;
you must mingle them before you put in your Suet. Fat double tripes boiled
tender, then minced, make very good Pyes.
TO MAKE A FRENCH BARLEY POSSET
Take two quarts of Milk to half a pound of French-barley; boil it, until it
is enough; when the Milk is almost boiled away, put to it three Pintes of
good Cream. Let it boil together a quarter of an hour; then sweeten it; and
put in Mace, Cinnamon in the beginning, when you first put in your Cream.
When you have done so, take White-wine a Pint, or Sack and White-wine
together, of each half a Pint; sweeten it, as you love it, with Sugar; pour
in all the Cream, but leave your Barley behind in the Skillet. This will
make an Excellent Posset; nothing else but a tender Curd to the bottom; let
it stand on the Coals half a quarter of an hour.
TO MAKE PUFF-PAST
Take a Gill of cold-water; two whites of Eggs, and one yolk; to a quart of
Flower one pound of Butter; so rowl it up, but keep out of the Flower so
much as will rowl it up.
TO MAKE A PUDDING WITH PUFF-PAST
Take a new French peny-loaf, and slice it very thin, and lay it in a dish;
and take three pints of Cream, and boil it with a little Mace and Nutmeg
grated; sweeten it with a little Sugar, and add to it a little Salt. Then
let it stand till it be cold. Then take ten yolks of Eggs; and beat them
very well with two or three spoonfuls of the Cream; then put it into the
Cream, and stir them well together: Take the Marrow of three bones; lay
half the Marrow upon the bread in good big lumps, and some Citron, and
Candid Limon, and what other sweet meats you like. Then pour it all upon
the bread; then put the rest of your Marrow on the top with Citron and
Candid Limon. I forgat to tell you, that you must lay a Puff-paste at the
bottom of the dish, before you put in the bread, and cover it with the
same.
TO MAKE PEAR-PUDDINGS
Take a cold Turky, Capon or cold Veal. Shred it very small; and put almost
as much Beef-suet as your meat, and mince it very small. Then put Salt and
Nutmeg grated, half a pound of Currants; a little grated-bread, and a
little Flower. Then put in three yolks of Eggs, and one of the whites,
beaten very well. Then take so much Cream, as will wet them, and make them
up as big as a Bon-christian pear; and as you make them up, take a little
flower in your hand, that they may not cling. Then put in little sticks at
the bottom like the stems of Pears; or make them up in Balls. Butter the
dish very well, and send them up in the same dish you bake them in. They
will be baked in about half an hour: I think the dish needeth not to be
covered, whiles it baketh. You may make minced Pyes thus: and bake them
with Puff-past in a dish like a Florenden, and use Marrow instead of Suet.
MARROW-PUDDINGS
Take the pith of Beeves; a good spoonful of Almonds very small beaten with
Rose-water: beat the pith, when the skin is taken off very well with a
spoon; then mingle it with the Almonds, and put in it six yolks of Eggs
well beaten, and four spoonfuls of Cream boiled and cold, it must be very
thick; put in a little Ambergreece, and as much Sugar, as will sweeten
them; a little Salt, and the Marrow of two good bones, cut in little
pieces. When your Beefs-guts are seasoned, fit them up and boil them.
TO MAKE RED DEAR
Take a piece of the Buttock of Beef, the leanest of it, and beat it with a
rowling-pin the space of an hour, till you think you have broken the grain
of it, and have made it very open both to receive the sowsing-drink, and
also to make it tender. Then take a pint of Vinegar, and a pint of
Claret-wine and let it lie therein two nights, and two days. Then beat a
couple of Nutmegs, and put them into the sowsing-drink; then Lard it. Your
Lard must be as big as your greatest finger for consuming. Then take
Pepper, Cloves, Mace and Nutmegs, and season it very well in every place,
and so bake it in Pye-paste, and let it stand in the oven six or seven
hours. And when it hath stood three hours in your oven, then put it in your
sowsing-drink as is aforesaid; and you may keep it a quarter of a year, if
it be kept close.
TO MAKE A SHOULDER OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON
Save the blood of your sheep, and strain it. Take grated bread almost the
quantity of a Peny loaf, Pepper, Thyme, chopp'd small; mingle these
Ingredients with a little of the blood, and stuff the Mutton. Then wrap up
your shoulder of Mutton, and lay it in the blood twenty four hours; prick
the shoulder with your Knife, to let the blood into the flesh, and so serve
it with Venison Sawce.
TO STEW A RUMP OF BEEF
Take a Rump of Beef, and season it with Nutmegs grated, and some Pepper and
Salt mingled together, and season the Beef on the Bony-side; lay it in a
pipkin with the flat-side downward. Take three pints of
Elder-wine-vinegar, and as much water, and three great Onions, and a bunch
of Rosemary tyed up together. Put them all into a Pipkin, and stew them
three or four hours together with a soft fire being covered close. Then
dish it up upon sippets, blowing off the fat from the Gravy; and some of
the Gravy put into the Beef, and serve it up.
TO BOIL SMOAKED FLESH
Mounsieur Overbec doth tell me, that when He boileth a Gambon of Bacon, or
any salted flesh and hanged in the smoak (as Neats-tongues, Hung-beef, and
Hogs-cheeks, &c.), He putteth into the Kettle of water to boil with them
three or four handfuls of _fleur de foin_, (more or less according to the
quantity of flesh and water,) tyed loosly in a bag of course-cloth. This
maketh it much tenderer, shorter, mellower, and of a finer colour.
A PLAIN BUT GOOD SPANISH OGLIA
Take a Rump of Beef, or some of Brisket or Buttock cut into pieces, a loin
of Mutton, with the superfluous fat taken off, and a fleshy piece of the
Leg of Veal or a Knuckle, a piece of enterlarded Bacon, three or 4 Onions
(or some Garlike) and if you will, a Capon or two, or three great tame
Pigeons. First, put into the water the Beef and the Bacon; After a while,
the Mutton and Veal and Onions. But not the Capon or Pigeons till only so
much time remain, as will serve barely to boil them enough. If you have
_Garavanzas_, put them in at the first, after they have been soaked with
Ashes all night in heat, and well washed with warm water, after they are
taken out; or if you will have Cabbage, or Roots, or Leeks, or whole
Onions, put them in time enough to be sufficiently boiled. You may at first
put in some Crusts of Bread, or Venison Pye crust. It must boil in all five
or six hours gently, like stewing after it is well boiled. A quarter or
half an hour before you intend to take it off, take out a porrenger full of
broth, and put to it some Pepper and five or six Cloves and a Nutmeg, and
some Saffran, and mingle them well in it. Then put that into the pot, and
let it boil or stew with the rest a while. You may put in a bundle of
Sweet-herbs. Salt must be put in as soon as the water is skimmed.
VUOVA LATTATE
Take a quart of good, but fine broth; beat with it very well eight New
laid-eggs (whites and all) and put in a little Sugar, and if you will a
little Amber, or some Mace, or Nutmeg. Put all this into a fit Pipkin, and
set this in a great one, or a kettle of boiling water, till it be stiffened
like a Custard.
VUOVA SPERSA
When some broth is boiling in a Pipkin, pour into it some Eggs well beaten,
and they will curdle in a lump, when they are enough; take them out with a
holed ladle, and lay them upon the bread in the Minestra.
TO MAKE EXCELLENT BLACK-PUDDINGS
Take a quart of Sheeps blood, and a quart of Cream; ten Eggs, the yolks and
the whites beaten well together; stir all this Liquor very well, then
thicken it with grated Bread, and Oat-meal finely beaten, of each a like
quantity; Beef-suet finely shred and Marrow in little lumps: season it with
a little Nutmeg and Cloves and Mace mingled with Salt, a little
Sweet-marjoram, Thyme and Peny-royal shred very well together, and mingle
them with the other things: Some put in a few Currants; then fill them in
cleansed guts, and boil them carefully.
A RECEIPT TO MAKE WHITE PUDDINGS
Take a fillet of Veal, and a good fleshy Capon; then half rost them both,
and take off their skins: which being done, take only the wings and brawns
with an equal proportion of Veal, which must be shred very small as is done
for Sassages. To this shred half a pound of the belly part of interlarded
Bacon, and half a pound of the finest leaf (_la panne_) of Hog cleared from
the skin; then take the yolks of eighteen or twenty Eggs, and the whites of
six well beaten with as much Milk and Cream, as will make it of convenient
thickness; and then season it with Salt, Cloves, Nutmeg, Mace, Pepper, and
Ginger, if you please. The Puddings must be boiled in half Milk and half
water. You are to use small-guts, such as for white-Marrow-puddings, and
they are to be cleansed in the Ordinary manner; and filled very lankley;
for they will swell much in the boiling, and break if they be too full.
TO MAKE AN EXCELLENT PUDDING
Take of the Tripes of Veal the whitest and finest you can find; wash them
well, and let them lie in fair Fountain or River water, till they do not
smell like Tripes. This done, cut them so small as is necessary to pass
through a Funnel. Take also one or two pounds of Pork, that hath not been
salted, and cut it as small as the Tripes, and mingle them altogether;
which season with Salt, White-pepper, Anis-seeds beaten and
Coriander-seeds; Then make a Liaison with a little Milk and yolks of Eggs;
and after all is well mingled and thickned, as it ought to be, you must
fill with it the greatest guts of a Hog, that may be had, with a Funnel of
White iron, having first tyed the end of the gut below. Do not fill it too
full, for fear they should break in the boiling, but leave room enough for
the flesh to swell. When you are going to boil them, put them into a Kettle
with as much Milk as will cover and boil them, being boiled, let them lie
in the liquor till they are almost cold, then take them out and lay them in
a basket upon a clean linnen cloth to cool. If they are well seasoned, they
will keep twelve or fifteen days; provided you keep them in a good place,
not moist, nor of any bad smell. You must still turn them and remove them
from one place to another.
SCOTCH COLLOPS
My Lord of Bristol's Scotch Collops are thus made: Take a leg of fine
Sweet-Mutton, that, to make it tender, is kept as long as possible may be
without stinking. In Winter seven or eight days. Cut it into slices with a
sharp Knife as thin as possibly you can. Then beat it with the back of a
heavy Knife, as long as you can, not breaking it in pieces. Then sprinkle
them with Salt, and lay them upon the Gridiron over a small Charcoal-fire,
to broil, till you perceive that side is enough, and before any moisture
run out of them upon the fire. Then lay the Collops into a warm dish close
covered, till the Gravy be run out of them. Then lay their other side upon
the Gridiron, and make an end of broiling them, and put them again into the
dish, where the former Gravy run out. Add to this more Gravy of Mutton,
heightened with Garlike or Onions, or Eschalots; and let them stew a while
together, then serve them in very hot.
They are also very good of a Rump of tender Beef.