CHAPTER XII

OUT WITH CAPTAIN BLANK

"Grand Quartier Général!" The sentry barring the road jerked his

rifle instantly to rigid salute. The speaker sat beside the chauffeur

of a big limousine. He wore a wonderful new horizon-blue captain's

uniform, but on his left arm was the colored silken brassard of the

Great General headquarters staff. It meant that the wearer was the

direct agent of Père Joffre, and though sentries dotted our route the

chauffeur never once brought the car to a full halt.

Two other neutral correspondents were in the car with me. The tonneau

was comfortably heated and electrically lighted. Our baggage was

carried in other cars behind us, in charge of orderlies. Still other

cars carried an armed escort, in case of sudden attack on the lines.

For at last we were going forth officially to the front. No sentry

could stop us. No officer could "detain" us--there was no fear of

prison at our journey's end. It had been decided by Père Joffre

himself; and "Himself" had appointed the Captain, whose orders were

to remain with us even after our return to Paris, where he would wait

to place the magic visé of the État Major upon our despatches, thus

preventing any delays at the regular Bureau de Censure.

Comfortable rooms had been reserved in hotels of little villages behind

the trenches. Far in advance meals had been commanded to be ready at

the hours of our arrival. Every detail of each day's program had been

carefully arranged. And in case we did become accidentally separated

from our Captain, each of us carried a pass issued by the Ministry of

War bearing our photographs and in dramatic language fully accrediting

us as correspondents to the armies of the Republic.

So we lighted our cigars and lolled at our ease, feeling our own

importance just a bit as each sentry saluted respectfully the Captain's

silken brassard.

In the company of Captain Blank I have secured the greatest part of

the cable copy that the war has furnished me, but on that first ride

through the snow fields of Northern France, I little realized that on

my return to Paris I would send America the most important cable that I

had ever filed in my life: for it was the first detailed description

of the French army permitted for publication after the battle of the

Marne. Many times during that trip we asked each other what "news"

there was in all that we saw that was worth cabling, when a five-cent

postage stamp would carry it by letter. It was all interesting, some of

it decidedly exciting; but not once did we witness a general engagement

of the army. There was no storming of forts, no charges of the cavalry,

no capitulation of troops. It was just the deadly winter waiting in the

trenches, with the sentries who never slept at the port-holes and the

artillery incessantly pounding away at the rear. I decided that there

was nothing worth cabling in the story.

When I returned to Paris, and a steam-heated apartment, the reaction

on my physical forces was so great that I went to bed for several days

with the grippe. As I impatiently fumed to get to work on the story of

my trip, it suddenly dawned upon me that it was a cable story after

all. Why, it was one of the biggest cable stories possible--it was the

story of the French army. I had just been permitted a real view of it,

the first accorded any correspondent in so comprehensive a manner. I

had followed a great section of the fighting line, had been in the

trenches under fire, and had received scientific, detailed information

regarding this least known of European forces.

True, we correspondents knew what a powerful machine it was. We knew

it was getting stronger every day. But America did not, and Germany

meanwhile was granting interviews, taking correspondents to the

trenches and up in balloons and aeroplanes in their campaign for

neutral sympathy. Now France, or rather General Joffre--for his was the

first and last word on the subject of war correspondents--had decided

to combat the German advertising. Captain Blank was still waiting in

Paris for my copy--cable copy marked "rush"--which I dictated in bed.

"This army has nothing to hide," said one of the greatest generals to

me, during the trip. "You see what you like, go where you desire and if

you cannot get there, ask."

While our party did all the spectacular stunts the Germans had offered

the correspondents in such profusion, such as visiting the trenches,

where once a German shell burst thirty feet from us, splattering us

with mud, where also snipers sent rifle balls hissing only a few feet

away, our greatest treats were the scientific daily discourses given

by Captain Blank, touching the entire history of the first campaign,

explaining each event leading up to the present position of the two

armies. He gave the exact location of every French and Allied army

corps on the entire front.

On the opposite side of the line he demonstrated the efficiency of the

French secret service by giving full details of the position and name

of every German regiment, even to the date of its arrival.

Our Captain explained the second great German blunder after their

failure to occupy Paris. This was their mistake in not at once swinging

a line across Northern France, cutting off Calais and Boulogne, where

they could have leveled a pistol at England's head. He explained that

the superior French cavalry dictated that the line should instead run

straight north through the edge of Belgium to the sea. And he refuted

by many military arguments the theory that cavalry became obsolete with

the advent of aeroplanes.

Cavalry formerly was used to screen the infantry advance and also for

shock purposes in the charges. Now that the lines are established, it

is mostly used with the infantry in the trenches; but in the great race

after the Marne to turn the western flanks it was the cavalry's ability

to outstrip the infantry that kept the Germans from possession of all

Northern France. In other words, the French chauseurs, more brilliant

than the Uhlans, kept that northern line straight until the infantry

corps had time to take up position.

Once, on passing from the second line to a point less than a hundred

yards from the German rifles, I came face to face with a general of

division. He was sauntering along for his morning's stroll, which he

chose to take in the trenches with his men rather than on the safer

roads at the rear. He smoked a cigarette and seemed careless of danger.

He continually patted his soldiers on the back as he passed and called

them "his little braves."

I could not help wondering then and since whether the German general

opposite was setting his men the same splendid example. I inquired

the French general's name; he was General Fayolle, conceded by all

the armies to be one of the greatest artillery experts in the world.

Comradeship between officers and men always is general in the French

army, but I never before realized fully the officers' willingness to

accept the same fate as their men.

In Paris the popular appellation for a German is "boche." Not once at

the front did I hear this word used by officers or men. They deplore

it, just as they deplore many things that happen in Paris. Every

officer I talked to declared the Germans were a brave, strong enemy;

they waste no time calling them names.

"They are wonderful, but we will beat them," was the way one officer

summed up the general feeling.

Another illustration of the French officer at the front: the city

of Vermelles, of 10,000 inhabitants, was captured from the Germans

after thirty-four days' fighting. It was taken literally from house

to house, the French engineers sapping and mining the Germans out of

every stronghold, destroying every single house, incidentally forever

upsetting my own one-time idea that the French are a frivolous people.

So determined were they to retake this town that they fought in the

streets with artillery at a distance of twenty-one feet, probably the

shortest range artillery duel in the history of the world.

The Germans before the final evacuation buried hundreds of their own

dead. Every yard in the city was filled with little crosses--the ground

was so trampled that the mounds of graves were crushed down level with

the ground--and on the crosses are printed the names, with the number

of the German regiments. At the base of every cross rested either a

crucifix or a statue of the Virgin or a wreath of artificial flowers,

all looted from the French graveyard.

With the German graves were French graves, made afterward. I walked

through this ruined city where, aside from the soldiers, the only sign

of life I saw was a gaunt, prowling cat. With me, past these hundreds

of graves, walked half a dozen French officers. They did not pause to

read inscriptions; they did not comment on the loot and pillage of the

graveyard; they scarcely looked even at the graves, but they constantly

raised their hands to their caps in salute, regardless of whether the

crosses marked a French or a German life destroyed.

Another illustration of French humanity:

We were driving along back of the advance lines. On the road before us

a company of territorial infantry, after eight days in the trenches,

were now marching back to two days of repose at the rear. Plodding

along the same road was a refugee mother and several little children

in a donkey cart; behind the cart, attached by a rope, trundled a baby

buggy with the youngest child inside. The buggy suddenly struck a rut

in the road and overturned, spilling the baby into the mud. Terrible

wails arose; the soldiers stiffened to attention. Then, seeing the

accident, the entire company broke ranks and rescued the infant. They

wiped the dirt from its face and helped the mother to bestow it again

in the cart.

Our motor had halted; and our captain from the Great General

Headquarters, in his gorgeous blue uniform, climbed from the car, and

discussed with the mother the safety of a baby buggy riding behind

a donkey cart; at the same time congratulating the soldier who had

rescued the child.

I took a brief ride at the front in an ante-bellum motorbus,--there

being nothing left in Paris but the trams and subway. Busses have since

been used to carry fresh meat, to transport troops and also ammunition.

We trundled merrily along a little country road, the snow-white fields

on either side in strange contrast to the scenery when last I rode

in that bus, in my daily trips from my home to the _Times_ office in

Paris. The bus was now riddled with bullets, but the soldier conductor

still jingles the bell to the motorman, although he carries a revolver

where he formerly wore the register for fares.

Trench life was one of the surprises of the trip. Every night since the

war began I had heard pitying remarks about "the boys in the trenches,"

especially if the nights were cold. I was, therefore, prepared to find

the men standing in water to the knees, shivering, wretched, sick and

unhappy. I found just the contrary--the trenches were clean, large and

sanitary, although, of course, mud is mud. The bottoms of the trenches

in every instance were corduroy-lined with modern drains, which keep

the feet perfectly dry. In the large dugouts the men, except those

doing sentry duty, sleep comfortably on dry straw. There are special

dugouts for officers and artillery observers.

Although the maps show the lines of fighting to be rather wavy, one

must go to the front really to appreciate the zigzag, snake-like line

that it really is. The particular bit of trenches we visited covered a

front of twelve miles; but so irregular was the line, so intricate and

vast the system of intrenchments, that they measured 200 miles on that

particular twelve-mile fighting front.

Leaving the trenches at the rear of the communication _boyaux_, it

is astonishing how little of the war can be seen. Ten feet after we

left our trenches we could not see even the entrance. We stood in a

beautiful open field having our pictures taken, and a few hundred yards

away our motor waited behind some trees. Suddenly we heard a "zip zip"

over our heads. German snipers were taking shots at us.

With all considerations for the statement that the Germans have the

greatest fighting machine the world has ever seen, the French army to

me seemed invincible from the standpoints of power, intelligence and

humanity. This latter quality, judging from the generals in command to

the men in the trenches, especially impressed me. I did not and I do

not believe that an army with such ideals as the French army can be

beaten.

So I wrote my cable and sent it to Captain Blank. He viséd it, at the

same time sending me a letter which I cherish among my possessions. He

thanked me for the sentiments I had expressed and told me that a copy

of the story would be sent to General Joffre.

A few days later I met the _doyen_ of war correspondents, Frederick

Villiers, in a boulevard café. He was out with me on that trip. But he

began war-corresponding with Archibald Forbes at the battle of Plevna.

This is his seventeenth war. I said to him:

"Mr. Villiers, what did you do with the story of this trip to the

front; you who have been in so many battles; you who have had a camel

shot under you in the desert; you who escaped from Port Arthur; you

who have seen more war than any living man? What do you think of this

latest edition of war?"

He answered: "It is different, very different, in many ways; but this

trip from which we have just returned is the biggest war spectacle that

I've ever had!"

Villiers, too, had seen the French army.

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