CHAPTER XII

—————Fire that art slumbering there,

Like some stern warrior in his rocky fort,

After the vast invasion of the world!

Hast not some flaming imp or messenger

Of empyrean element, to whom

In virtue of his nature are both known

The secrets of the burning, central void below,

And yon bright heaven, out of whose aëry fire

Are wrought the forms of angels and the thrones?

Festus.

VOLCANIC eruptions in Iceland have presented some remarkable features.

There are volcanoes that are much higher than any in this country;

but, in the amount of lava thrown out at one time, no eruption on

record ever equaled that of Skaptar Jokull in 1783. A notice of this

may not be considered out of place. In May, about a month before this

eruption, a volcano rose up from the bottom of the sea, over seventy

miles from land, to the southwest of Cape Reykianes, and more than a

hundred and fifty miles from Skaptar Jokull. This was one of the most

remarkable submarine eruptions ever recorded. It formed a large island,

and ejected vast quantities of pumice, a light, volcanic substance that

floated on the surface of the water. It covered the sea for more than

a hundred and fifty miles, and in such immense quantities that ships

were detained in their progress while sailing along the coast. The

sea-birds paused and screamed in their wheeling flight, and the more

adventurous took a ride on a new volcanic raft. His Danish Majesty,

on hearing of a creation of new territory near his ancient possession

of Iceland, sent a ship with orders for its immediate annexation. The

commander took formal possession of it in the name of the king. But

the end was not yet. The flag of Denmark had not waved above it for

a twelve-month, before it sunk back into the ocean and disappeared

forever. Soon after this eruption in the sea—from the first to the

eighth of June—violent earthquakes were experienced in the vicinity of

Skaptar Jokull, and clouds of smoke obscured the sun for some days. It

was often so dark in the middle of the day, that a sheet of white paper

could not be seen when held up before the eyes. An immense shower of

ashes, sand, and sulphur filled the air, and completely covered the

land. It poisoned the vegetation, destroying every green thing where

it fell. Fortunately the wind carried it to the south, and it soon

reached the ocean. Incredible as it may seem, this shower of ashes and

sulphur was borne over the Northern Sea to the Faroe Isles, Shetland

and Orkney, entirely over Great Britain, across to Holland, and far on

to the continent of Europe, nearly two thousand miles from the place

where it started. Around the mountain, for many miles, darting flames

and lightning filled the air, and the sulphur flashed and burned far up

into the heavens. The next effect produced, was the heat of the volcano

melting the ice that had shrouded it for centuries; and this caused

such a deluge, that the rivers, particularly the Skaptá, overflowed

their banks, and submerged, washed up, and even carried away farms.

On the 10th of June, ten days after the first symptoms of an eruption

appeared, the torrent of lava burst forth, and poured down the side

of the mountain. This followed so quickly after the flood of water,

that in less than twenty-four hours the river was entirely dried up,

and people walked across its bed, where, for years, it had only been

passable in boats. While the fire was contending with the water, a

terrible and deafening, roaring sound was heard, and immense quantities

of steam filled the air. The fiery torrent poured down the bed of

the river, often from 400 to 600 feet deep, and over two hundred in

breadth. Lightning flashed through the heavens, thunder and concussions

of the earth were constantly heard and felt, and the volcano kept up

a continued and terrible roaring. In its course down the bed of the

river, the lava came to an immense chasm or pit, into which for many

hours it poured with a deafening noise. The stream of lava flowed first

south, then east, destroying farms, houses, and churches, and burning

up the thickets of wood near Kirkubær. Often great chasms in the earth

would get filled with the melted lava, and then, as it cooled on top,

the heat below would cause it to explode, and blow large masses of it

high in the air. For three months the lava continued to flow, but it

was not until the next February that the mountain ceased throwing out

ashes, sand, flames, and hot stones. The effects of this eruption were

more terrible than any thing of the kind that ever happened in Iceland.

The showers of ashes, sand, and sulphur, completely destroyed every

green thing for a long distance. Another most singular effect of this

eruption, extended to the ocean. The fish that had always frequented

the coast, were entirely driven away, and never returned. A terrible

famine ensued. Within two years, over 190,000 sheep, 28,000 horses, and

11,000 cattle, died of starvation. About 10,000 inhabitants—one-fifth

of the entire population of the island—perished from want and exposure.

The amount of lava ejected from this volcano was probably greater than

that of any eruption of the same duration, ever recorded. It covered a

tract of country 500 square miles in extent; and had it lain of equal

thickness over the entire surface, would have been over 300 feet deep.

The lava would have filled the channels of fifty rivers as large as the

Hudson from Albany to New York.

It is said that the personal appearance of a certain quadruped does not

give an unfailing indication of the distance he can jump. This can

scarcely be true of Skaptar Jokull. If size is an indication of power,

the vast magnitude of this mountain would seem to show that its

eruptions would be terrible. It is over one hundred miles in diameter at

the base, and more than three hundred and thirty in circumference. The

most of it is wrapped in a pall of eternal snow, and centuries sometimes

elapse without an eruption. Inaccessible, except in some places around

the edges, it appears from different points of view like several

distinct mountains; and in different parts it goes by different names.

On the west, it is known as Skaptar Jokull; and on this side the great

eruption occurred. On the south, it is called Oræfa Jokull; and at this

point it is the highest mountain in Iceland, being over seven thousand

feet above the level of the sea. Its vast central surface, and all

throughout its northern boundary, is known as Vatna Jokull or Klofa

Jokull, and is supposed to contain in its hollows large pools of

standing water. This particular account I had given me in a conversation

with Herre Biarni Gunnlaugson, the indefatigable Icelandic geographer,

who traveled over every part of Iceland for a period of twelve years.

During this time, he saw the entire country, and gathered the

information and executed the drawings for his most elaborate and

valuable map of the island. I can lay claim to some personal

acquaintance with Skaptar Jokull. Standing on the summit of Hekla, I

could look directly over nearly the entire surface of the mountain. It

does not rise from all sides to one peak in the center, like Ætna,

Stromboli, Hekla, and Vesuvius; but to the eye it presents the

appearance of one vast, glittering plain of snow. The few travelers who

have ascended the jokulls of Iceland, have described them as presenting

immense cracks in the snow and ice; making their ascent more dangerous,

in proportion to their height, than probably any other mountains in the

world. The enormous bulk of Skaptar Jokull may be imagined from one

comparison. Were it as steep and high in proportion to its breadth of

base, as the Peak of Teneriffe, its perpendicular height would be more

than ten miles above the level of the sea. Next to this mountain and

Hekla, the most noted in Iceland are the Eyjafjalla and Tindfjalla

Jokulls, in the south, and Snæfell Jokull in the west.

As an instance of the effects of volcanic eruptions, and also of the

inaccuracy of geographers respecting Iceland, one fact may be mentioned.

On nearly every English or American map where Iceland is represented,

there will be noticed a large lake called the “Fiske Vatn,” or _Fish

Lake_. There is not such a lake in existence, nor has not been for many

years. There _was_ such a lake, long ago—I have not the date, but think

it was nearly a hundred years since; and a volcano rose up from the

bottom, filled its entire bed, and literally drank it up at a draught!

Now there is no vestige of a lake in the vicinity; but there is a

mountain, and I saw it. It lies between Hekla and Skaptar Jokull, and

goes by the name of FISKIVATNAVEGR, or “Fish-lake-mountain.” Nature

works by general laws, but this particular sample of its work seems to

us rather singular. Now, this is a geographical and historical fact, and

poetry can be quoted to prove things that are quite as strange.

_Festus_, in describing his tour in “giant-land,” related some of the

customs of the inhabitants, and told how they lived.

——“A wheat-stack here would but make

One loaf of bread for them. Oak trees they use

As pickles, and tall pines as tooth-picks; whales,

In their own blubber fried, serve as mere fish

To bait their appetites. Boiled elephants,

Rhinoceroses, and roasted crocodiles—

Every thing dished up whole—with lions stewed,

Shark sauce and eagle pie, and young giraffes,

Make up a pot-luck dinner,—if there’s plenty.

STUDENT. And as to beverage?

FESTUS. Oh! if thirsty, they

Will lay them down and drink a river dry,

Nor once draw breath.

* * * * *

When death takes place,

They burn the bodies always in a lake,

The spray whereof is ashes, and its depths

Unfathomable fire.”

Now, either of these can be taken to prove the other. The poetry is

consistent, for it agrees, in all essential particulars, with the

natural phenomena in this case.

Mount Hekla has a greater celebrity than any other mountain in Iceland,

owing to the frequency of its eruptions. All of these, for eight hundred

and fifty years, are said to be recorded, and amount to twenty-four in

number. They have averaged about three in a century; and, though

occurring at irregular intervals, at no time has more than seventy-seven

years elapsed from one eruption to another. The following are the

periods of

THE ERUPTIONS OF MOUNT HEKLA SINCE THE YEAR 1000.

Interval between the

eruptions.

1. A. D. 1004

2. “ 1029 25 years.

3. “ 1105 76 “

4. “ 1113 8 “

5. “ 1157 44 “

6. “ 1206 49 “

7. “ 1222 16 “

8. “ 1294 72 “

9. “ 1300 6 “

10. “ 1340 40 “

11. “ 1374 34 “

12. “ 1390 16 “

13. “ 1436 46 “

14. “ 1510 74 “

15. “ 1554 44 “

16. “ 1583 29 “

17. “ 1619 36 “

18. “ 1625 6 “

19. “ 1636 11 “

20. “ 1693 57 “

21. “ 1728 35 “

22. “ 1754 26 “

23. “ 1766-68 12 “

24. “ 1845,46 77 “

According to the Icelandic records, the surface of the land in the

vicinity of Mount Hekla has been entirely changed by the eruptions.

Formerly, there were beautiful farms on every side, and the country was

thickly settled close up to the base of the mountain. The successive

eruptions or inundations of lava have covered the land for many miles

around, with a charred and blackened mass.

The Icelanders are much more devoted to history and poetry than to exact

science; and on this account the various eruptions of their volcanoes,

and other remarkable natural phenomena, have received much less

attention, and been recorded with far less accuracy and minuteness, than

historical events. Owing to this, we have not as many records of their

volcanoes, spouting springs, and submarine eruptions, as would be

desirable. Had we a more extended series of facts, much that now seems

irregular and mysterious, could be reduced to system.

Norðurfari; or, Rambles in Iceland · 第 12 / 29 章