NEW BRITAIN DISCOVERED.
THE MAINLAND OF NEW GUINEA. ITS INHABITANTS. SLINGERS BAY.
The mainland at this place is high and mountainous, adorned with tall
flourishing trees; the sides of the hills had many large plantations and
patches of cleared land; which, together with the smokes we saw, were
certain signs of its being well inhabited; and I was desirous to have
some commerce with the inhabitants. Being nigh the shore we saw first one
proa; a little after, 2 or 3 more; and at last a great many boats came
from all the adjacent bays. When they were 46 in number they approached
so near us that we could see each other's signs, and hear each other
speak; though we could not understand them, nor they us. They made signs
for us to go in towards the shore, pointing that way; it was squally
weather, which at first made me cautious of going too near; but, the
weather beginning to look pretty well, I endeavoured to get into a bay
ahead of us, which we could have got into well enough at first; but while
we lay by we were driven so far to leeward that now it was more difficult
to get in. The natives lay in their proas round us; to whom I showed
beads, knives, glasses, to allure them to come nearer; but they would
come so nigh as to receive anything from us. Therefore I threw out some
things to them, namely a knife fastened to a piece of board, and a glass
bottle corked up with some beads in it, which they took up and seemed
well pleased. They often struck their left breast with their right hand,
and as often held up a black truncheon over their heads, which we thought
was a token of friendship; wherefore we did the like. And when we stood
in towards their shore they seemed to rejoice; but when we stood off they
frowned, yet kept us company in their proas, still pointing to the shore.
About 5 o'clock we got within the mouth of the bay and sounded several
times, but had no ground though within a mile of the shore. The basin of
this bay was above 2 miles within us, into which we might have gone; but,
as I was not assured of anchorage there, so I thought it not prudence to
run in at this time; it being near night and seeing a black tornado
rising in the west, which I most feared: besides we had near 200 men in
proas close by us. And the bays on the shore were lined with men from one
end to the other, where there could not be less than 3 or 400 more. What
weapons they had we know not, nor yet their design. Therefore I had, at
their first coming near us, got up all our small arms, and made several
put on cartouch boxes to prevent treachery. At last I resolved to go out
again: which, when the natives in their proas perceived, they began to
fling stones at us as fast as they could, being provided with engines for
that purpose (wherefore I named this place Slingers Bay). But at the
firing of one gun they were all amazed, drew off and flung no more
stones. They got together as if consulting what to do; for they did not
make in towards the shore, but lay still, though some of them were killed
or wounded; and many of them had paid for their boldness, but that it was
unwilling to cut off any of them; which, if I had done, I could not hope
afterwards to bring them to treat with me.
SMALL ISLANDS.
The next day we sailed close by an island where we saw many smokes, and
men in the bays; out of which came 2 canoes, taking much pains to
overtake us, but they could not, though we went with an easy sail; and I
could not now stay for them. As I passed by the south-east point I
sounded several times within a mile of the sandy bays, but had no ground:
about 3 leagues to the northward of the south-east point we opened a
large deep bay, secured from west-north-west and south-west winds. There
were 2 other islands that lay to the north-east of it which secured the
bay from north-east winds; one was but small, yet woody; the other was a
league long, inhabited and full of coconut-trees. I endeavoured to get
into this bay; but there came such flaws off from the high land over it
that I could not; besides we had many hard squalls which deterred me from
it; and, night coming on, I would not run any hazard, but bore away to
the small inhabited island to see if we could get anchoring on the east
side of it. When we came there we found the island so narrow that there
could be no shelter; therefore I tacked and stood towards the greater
island again: and, being more than midway between both, I lay by,
designing to endeavour for anchorage next morning. Between 7 and 8 at
night we spied a canoe close by us; and, seeing no more, suffered her to
come aboard. She had 3 men in her who brought off 5 coconuts, for which I
gave each of them a knife and a string of beads to encourage them to come
off again in the morning: but before these went away we saw 2 more canoes
coming; therefore we stood away to the northward from them and then lay
by again till day. We saw no more boats this night; neither designed to
suffer any to come aboard in the dark.
By nine o'clock the next morning we were got within a league of the great
island, but were kept off by violent gusts of wind. These squalls gave us
warning of their approach by the clouds which hung over the mountains,
and afterwards descended to the foot of them; and then it is we expect
them speedily.
GERRIT DENNIS ISLE DESCRIBED.
On the 3rd of March, being about 5 leagues to leeward of the great
island, we saw the mainland ahead; and another great high island to
leeward of us, distance about 7 leagues; which we bore away for. It is
called in the Dutch charts Gerrit Denis Isle. It is about 14 or 15
leagues round; high and mountainous, and very woody: some trees appeared
very large and tall; and the bays by the seaside are well stored with
coconut-trees; where we also saw some small houses. The sides of the
mountains are thick set with plantations; and the mould in the new
cleared land seemed to be of a brown-reddish colour. This island is of no
regular figure, but is full of points shooting forth into the sea;
between which are many sandy bays, full of coconut-trees. The middle of
the isle lies in 3 degrees 10 minutes south latitude.
ITS INHABITANTS.
It is very populous; the natives are very black, strong, and well-limbed
people; having great round heads, their hair naturally curled and short,
which they shave into several forms, and dye it also of divers colours,
namely red, white and yellow. They have broad round faces with great
bottle noses, yet agreeable enough, till they disfigure them by painting,
and by wearing great things through their noses as big as a man's thumb
and about four inches long; these are run clear through both nostrils,
one end coming out by one cheek-bone, and the other end against the
other; and their noses so stretched that only a small slip of them
appears about the ornament. They have also great holes in their ears,
wherein they wear such stuff as in their noses.
THEIR PROAS.
They are very dexterous active fellows in their proas, which are very
ingeniously built. They are narrow and long with outlagers on one side;
the head and stern higher than the rest, and carved into many devices,
namely some fowl, fish, or a man's head, painted or carved: and though it
is but rudely done, yet the resemblance appears plainly, and shows an
ingenious fancy. But with what instruments they make their proas or
carved work I know not; for they seem to be utterly ignorant of iron.
They have very neat paddles with which they manage their proas
dexterously and make great way through the water. Their weapons are
chiefly lances, swords and slings, and some bows and arrows: they have
also wooden fishgigs for striking fish. Those that came to assault us in
Slingers Bay on the main are in all respects like these; and I believe
these are alike treacherous. Their speech is clear and distinct; the
words they used most when near us were "vacousee allamais," and then they
pointed to the shore. Their signs of friendship are either a great
truncheon, or bough of a tree full of leaves put on their heads; often
striking their heads with their hands.
ANTHONY CAVE'S ISLAND.
The next day, having a fresh gale of wind, we got under a high island,
about 4 or 5 leagues round, very woody, and full of plantations upon the
sides of the hills; and in the bays by the waterside are abundance of
coconut-trees. It lies in the latitude of 3 degrees 25 minutes south, and
meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1316 miles. On the south-east part of it
or 3 or 4 other small woody islands; one high and peaked, the other low
and flat; all bedecked with coconut-trees and other wood. On the north
there is another island of an indifferent height, and of a somewhat
larger circumference than the great high island last mentioned. We passed
between this and the high island. The high island is called in the Dutch
charts Anthony Cave's Island. As for the flat low island and the other
small one, it is probable they were never seen by the Dutch; nor the
islands to the north of Gerrit Dennis Island.
ITS INHABITANTS.
As soon as we came near Cave's Island some canoes came about us and made
signs for us to come ashore, as all the rest had done before; probably
thinking we could run the ship aground anywhere, as they did their proas;
for we saw neither sail nor anchor among any of them, though most eastern
Indians have both. These had proas made of one tree, well dug, with
outlagers on one side: they were but small yet well shaped. We
endeavoured to anchor but found no ground within a mile of the shore: we
kept close along the north side, still sounding till we came to the
north-east end, but found no ground; the canoes still accompanying us;
and the bays were covered with men going along as we sailed: many of them
strove to swim off to us but we left them astern. Being at the north-east
point we found a strong current setting to the north-west; so that though
we had steered to keep under the high island, yet we were driven towards
the flat one. At this time 3 of the natives came aboard: I gave each of
them a knife, a looking-glass, and a string of beads. I showed them
pumpkins and coconut-shells, and made signs to them to bring some aboard,
and had presently 3 coconuts out of one of the canoes. I showed them
nutmegs, and by their signs I guessed they had some on the island. I also
showed them some gold-dust, which they seemed to know, and called out
"manneel, manneel," and pointed towards the land. A while after these men
were gone 2 or 3 canoes came from the flat island, and by signs invited
us to their island; at which the others seemed displeased, and used very
menacing gestures and (I believe) speeches to each other. Night coming on
we stood off to sea; and, having but little wind all night, were driven
away to the north-west. We saw many great fires on the flat island. These
last men that came off to us were all black, as those we had seen before
with frizzled hair: they were very tall, lusty, well-shaped men; they
wear great things in their noses, and paint as the others, but not much;
they make the same signs of friendship, and their language seems to be
one: but the others had proas, and these canoes. On the sides of some of
these we saw the figures of several fish neatly cut; and these last were
not so shy as the others.
TREES FULL OF WORMS FOUND IN THE SEA.
Steering away from Cave's Island south-south-east we found a strong
current against us, which set only in some places in streams; and in them
we saw many trees and logs of wood which drove by us. We had but little
wood aboard; wherefore I hoisted out the pinnace and sent her to take up
some of this driftwood. In a little time she came aboard with a great
tree in a tow, which we could hardly hoist in with all our tackles. We
cut up the tree and split it for firewood. It was much worm-eaten and had
in it some live worms above an inch long, and about the bigness of a
goose-quill, and having their heads crusted over with a thin shell.
ST. JOHN'S ISLAND.
After this we passed by an island called by the Dutch St. John's Island,
leaving it to the north of us. It is about 9 or 10 leagues round and very
well adorned with lofty trees. We saw many plantations on the sides of
the hills, and abundance of coconut-trees about them; as also thick
groves on the bays by the seaside. As we came near it 3 canoes came off
to us but would not come aboard. They were such as we had seen about the
other islands: they spoke the same language, and made the same signs of
peace; and their canoes were such as at Cave's Island.
THE MAINLAND OF NEW GUINEA.
We stood along by St. John's Island till we came almost to the south-east
point; and then, seeing no more islands to the eastward of us, nor any
likelihood of anchoring under this, I steered away for the main of New
Guinea; we being now (as I supposed) to the east of it, on this north
side. My design of seeing these islands as I passed along was to get wood
and water, but could find no anchor-ground, and therefore could not do as
I purposed. Besides, these islands are all so populous that I dared not
send my boat ashore unless I could have anchored pretty nigh. Wherefore I
rather chose to prosecute my design on the main, the season of the year
being now at hand; for I judged the westerly winds were nigh spent.
ITS INHABITANTS.
On the 8th of March we saw some smokes on the main, being distant from it
4 or 5 leagues. It is very high, woody land, with some spots of savannah.
About 10 in the morning 6 or 7 canoes came off to us: most of them had no
more than one man in them; they were all black, with short curled hair;
having the same ornaments in their noses, and their heads so shaved and
painted, and speaking the same words, as the inhabitants of Cave's Island
before mentioned.
THE COAST DESCRIBED.
There was a headland to the southward of us beyond which, seeing no land,
I supposed that from thence the land trends away more westerly. This
headland lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 2 minutes south, and meridian
distance from Cape Mabo 1290 miles. In the night we lay by for fear of
over-shooting this headland. Between which and Cape St. Maries the land
is high, mountainous and woody; having many points of land shooting out
into the sea, which make so many fine bays. The coast lies
north-north-east and south-south-west.
The 9th in the morning a huge black man came off to us in a canoe but
would not come aboard. He made the same signs of friendship to us as the
rest we had met with; yet seemed to differ in his language, not using any
of those words which the others did. We saw neither smokes nor
plantations near this headland. We found here variation 1 degree east.
CAPE AND BAY ST. GEORGE.
In the afternoon, as we plied near the shore, 3 canoes came off to us;
one had 4 men in her, the others 2 apiece. That with the 4 men came
pretty nigh us, and showed us a coconut and water in a bamboo, making
signs that there was enough ashore where they lived; they pointed to the
place where they would have us go, and so went away. We saw a small round
pretty high island, about a league to the north of this headland, within
which there was a large deep bay, whither the canoes went; and we strove
to get thither before night, but could not; wherefore we stood off, and
saw land to the westward of this headland, bearing west by south half
south, distance about 10 leagues; and, as we thought, still more land
bearing south-west by south, distance 12 or 14 leagues: but, being
clouded, it disappeared and we thought we had been deceived. Before night
we opened the headland fair and I named it Cape St. George. The land from
hence trends away west-north-west about 10 leagues, which is as far as we
could see it; and the land that we saw to the westward of it in the
evening, which bore west by south half south, was another point about 10
leagues from Cape St. George; between which there runs in a deep bay for
20 leagues or more. We saw some high land in spots like islands down in
that bay at a great distance; but whether they are islands or the main
closing there we know not. The next morning we saw other land to the
south-east of the westermost point, which till then was clouded; it was
very high land, and the same that we saw the day before, that disappeared
in a cloud. This Cape St. George lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 5
minutes south; and meridian distance from Cape Mabo 1290 miles. The
island off this cape I called St. George's Isle; and the bay between it
and the west point I named St. George's Bay. Note: no Dutch charts go so
far as this cape, by 10 leagues. On the 10th in the evening we got within
a league of the westermost land seen, which is pretty high and very
woody, but no appearance of anchoring. I stood off again, designing (if
possible) to ply to and fro in this bay till I found a conveniency to
wood and water. We saw no more plantations, nor coconut-trees; yet in the
night we discerned a small fire right against us. The next morning we saw
a burning mountain in the country. It was round, high, and peaked at top
(as most volcanoes are) and sent forth a great quantity of smoke. We took
up a log of driftwood and split it for firing; in which we found some
small fish.
CAPE ORFORD.
The day after we passed by the south-west cape of this bay, leaving it to
the north of us: when we were abreast of it I called my officers
together, and named it Cape Orford, in honour of my noble patron;
drinking his lordship's health. This cape bears from Cape St. George
south-west about 18 leagues. Between them there is a bay about 25 leagues
deep, having pretty high land all round it, especially near the capes,
though they themselves are not high. Cape Orford lies in the latitude of
5 degrees 24 minutes south by my observation; and meridian distance from
Cape St. George 44 miles west. The land trends from this cape north-west
by west into the bay, and on the other side south-west per compass, which
is south-west 9 degrees west, allowing the variation which is here 9
degrees east. The land on each side of the cape is more savannah than
woodland, and is highest on the north-west side. The cape itself is a
bluff point of an indifferent height with a flat tableland at top. When
we were to the south-west of the cape it appeared to be a low point
shooting out; which you cannot see when abreast of it. This morning we
struck a log of driftwood with our turtle-irons, hoisted it in, and split
it for firewood. Afterwards we struck another but could not get it in.
There were many fish about it.
We steered along south-west as the land lies, keeping about 6 leagues off
the shore; and, being desirous to cut wood and fill water if I saw any
conveniency, I lay by in the night, because I would not miss any place
proper for those ends, for fear of wanting such necessaries as we could
not live without. This coast is high and mountainous, and not so thick
with trees as that on the other side of Cape Orford.
ANOTHER BAY. THE INHABITANTS THERE.
On the 14th, seeing a pretty deep bay ahead, and some islands where I
thought we might ride secure, we ran in towards the shore and saw some
smokes. At 10 o'clock we saw a point which shot out pretty well into the
sea, with a bay within it which promised fair for water; and we stood in
with a moderate gale. Being got into the bay within the point we saw many
coconut-trees, plantations, and houses. When I came within 4 or 5 mile of
the shore 6 small boats came off to view us, with about 40 men in them
all. Perceiving that they only came to view us and would not come aboard,
I made signs and waved to them to go ashore; but they did not or would
not understand me; therefore I whistled a shot over their heads out of my
fowling-piece, and then they pulled away for the shore as hard as they
could. These were no sooner ashore but we saw 3 boats coming from the
islands to leeward of us, and they soon came within call; for we lay
becalmed. One of the boats had about 40 men in her, and was a large
well-built boat; the other 2 were but small. Not long after I saw another
boat coming out of that bay where I intended to go: she likewise was a
large boat, with a high head and stern painted and full of men; this I
thought came off to fight us, as it is probable they all did; therefore I
fired another small shot over the great boat that was nigh us, which made
them leave their babbling and take to their paddles. We still lay
becalmed; and therefore they, rowing wide of us, directed their course
toward the other great boat that was coming off: when they were pretty
near each other I caused the gunner to fire a gun between them which he
did very dexterously; it was loaded with round and partridge-shot; the
last dropped in the water somewhat short of them, but the round shot went
between both boats and grazed about 100 yards beyond them; this so
affrighted them that they rowed away for the shore as fast as they could,
without coming near each other; and the little boats made the best of
their way after them: and now, having a gentle breeze at
south-south-east, we bore in to the bay after them. When we came by the
point I saw a great number of men peeping from under the rocks: I ordered
a shot to be fired close by to scare them. The shot grazed between us and
the point; and, mounting again, flew over the point, and grazed a second
time just by them. We were obliged to sail along close by the bays; and,
seeing multitudes setting under the trees, I ordered a third gun to be
fired among the coconut-trees to scare them; for, my business being to
wood and water, I thought it necessary to strike some terror into the
inhabitants, who were very numerous, and (by what I saw now and had
formerly experienced) treacherous. After this I sent my boat to sound;
they had first 40, then 30, and at last 20 fathom water. We followed the
boat and came to anchor about a quarter of a mile from the shore in 26
fathom water, fine black sand and oaze. We rode right against the mouth
of a small river where I hoped to find fresh water. Some of the natives
standing on a small point at the river's mouth, I sent a small shot over
their heads to fright them; which it did effectually.
A LARGE ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR'S ATTEMPTS TO TRADE WITH THEM.
In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the natives who stood upon the
point by the river's mouth with a present of coconuts; when the boat was
come near the shore they came running into the water, and put their nuts
into the boat. Then I made a signal for the boat to come aboard, and sent
both it and the yawl into the river to look for fresh water, ordering the
pinnace to lie near the river's mouth while the yawl went up to search.
In an hour's time they returned aboard with some barrecoes full of fresh
water, which they had taken up about half a mile up the river. After
which I sent them again with casks; ordering one of them to fill water,
and the other to watch the motion of the natives, lest they should make
any opposition; but they did not, and so the boats returned a little
before sunset with a tun and a half of water; and the next day by noon
brought aboard about 6 tun of water.
I sent ashore commodities to purchase hogs, etc., being informed that the
natives have plenty of them, as also of yams and other good roots; but my
men returned without getting anything that I sent them for; the natives
being unwilling to trade with us: yet they admired our hatchets and axes;
but would part with nothing but coconuts; which they used to climb the
trees for; and so soon as they gave them our men they beckoned to them to
be gone; for they were much afraid of us.
The 18th I sent both boats again for water, and before noon they had
filled all my casks. In the afternoon I sent them both to cut wood; but,
seeing about 40 natives standing on the bay at a small distance from our
men, I made a signal for them to come aboard again; which they did, and
brought me word that the men which we saw on the bay were passing that
way, but were afraid to come nigh them. At 4 o'clock I sent both the
boats again for more wood, and they returned in the evening. Then I
called my officers to consult whether it were convenient to stay here
longer, and endeavour a better acquaintance with these people or go to
sea. My design of tarrying here longer was, if possible, to get some
hogs, goats, yams and other roots; as also to get some knowledge of the
country and its product. My officers unanimously gave their opinions for
staying longer here. So the next day I sent both boats ashore again to
fish and to cut more wood. While they were ashore about 30 or 40 men and
women passed by them; they were a little afraid of our people at first;
but upon their making signs of friendship they passed by quietly; the men
finely bedecked with feathers of divers colours about their heads, and
lances in their hands; the women had no ornament about them, nor anything
to cover their nakedness but a bunch of small green boughs before and
behind, stuck under a string which came round their waists. They carried
large baskets on their heads, full of yams. And this I have observed
amongst all the wild natives I have known that they make their women
carry the burdens, while the men walk before without any other load than
their arms and ornaments. At noon our men came aboard with the wood they
had cut, and had caught but 6 fishes at 4 or 5 hauls of the seine, though
we saw abundance of fish leaping in the bay all the day long.
In the afternoon I sent the boats ashore for more wood; and some of our
men went to the natives' houses, and found they were now more shy than
they used to be; had taken down all the coconuts from the trees and
driven away their hogs. Our people made signs to them to know what was
become of their hogs, etc. The natives, pointing to some houses in the
bottom of the bay, and imitating the noise of those creatures, seemed to
intimate that there were both hogs and goats of several sizes, which they
expressed by holding their hands abroad at several distances from the
ground.
At night our boats came aboard with wood, and the next morning I went
myself with both boats up the river to the watering-place, carrying with
me all such trifles and iron-work as I thought most proper to induce them
to a commerce with us; but I found them very shy and roguish. I saw but 2
men and a boy: one of the men by some signs was persuaded to come to the
boat's side, where I was; to him I gave a knife, a string of beads, and a
glass bottle; the fellow called out, "cocos, cocos," pointing to a
village hard by, and signified to us that he would go for some; but he
never returned to us. And thus they had frequently of late served our
men. I took 8 or 9 men with me and marched to their houses, which I found
very mean; and their doors made fast with withes.
I visited 3 of their villages; and, finding all the houses thus abandoned
by the inhabitants, who carried with them all their hogs etc., I brought
out of their houses some small fishing-nets in recompense for those
things they had received of us. As we were coming away we saw 2 of the
natives; I showed them the things that we carried with us and called to
them "cocos, cocos," to let them know that I took these things because
they had not made good what they had promised by their signs, and by
their calling out "cocos." While I was thus employed the men in the yawl
filled 2 hogsheads of water and all the barrecoes. About 1 in the
afternoon I came aboard and found all my officers and men very
importunate to go to that bay where the hogs were said to be. I was loth
to yield to it, fearing they would deal too roughly with the natives. By
2 o'clock in the afternoon many black clouds gathered over the land,
which I thought would deter them from their enterprise; but they
solicited me the more to let them go. At last I consented, sending those
commodities I had ashore with me in the morning, and giving them a strict
charge to deal by fair means, and to act cautiously for their own
security. The bay I sent them to was about 2 miles from the ship. As soon
as they were gone I got all things ready that, if I saw occasion, I might
assist them with my great guns. When they came to land the natives in
great companies stood to resist them; shaking their lances and
threatening them; and some were so daring as to wade into the sea,
holding a target in one hand and a lance in the other. Our men held up to
them such commodities as I had sent, and made signs of friendship; but to
no purpose; for the natives waved them off. Seeing therefore they could
not be prevailed upon to a friendly commerce, my men, being resolved to
have some provision among them, fired some muskets to scare them away;
which had the desired effect upon all but 2 or 3, who stood still in a
menacing posture till the boldest dropped his target and ran away; they
supposed he was shot in the arm: he and some others felt the smart of our
bullets but none were killed; our design being rather to fright than to
kill them. Our men landed and found abundance of tame hogs running among
the houses. They shot down 9, which they brought away, besides many that
ran away wounded. They had but little time; for in less than an hour
after they went from the ship it began to rain: wherefore they got what
they could into the boats; for I had charged them to come away if it
rained. By that time the boat was aboard and the hogs taken in it cleared
up; and my men desired to make another trip thither before night; this
was about 5 in the evening; and I consented, giving them order to repair
on board before night. In the close of the evening they returned
accordingly with 8 hogs more, and a little live pig; and by this time the
other hogs were jerked and salted. These that came last we only dressed
and corned till morning; and then sent both boats ashore for more
refreshments, either of hogs or roots: but in the night the natives had
conveyed away their provisions of all sorts. Many of them were now about
the houses, and none offered to resist our boats landing, but on the
contrary were so amicable that one man brought 10 or 12 coconuts, left
them on the shore after he had showed them to our men, and went out of
sight. Our people finding nothing but nets and images brought some of
them away; which 2 of my men brought aboard in a small canoe; and
presently after, my boats came off. I ordered the boatswain to take care
of the nets, till we came at some place where they might be disposed of
for some refreshment for the use of all the company: the images I took
into my own custody.
In the afternoon I sent the canoe the place from whence she had been
brought; and in her, 2 axes, 2 hatchets (one of them helved) 6 knives, 6
looking-glasses, a large bunch of beads, and 4 glass bottles. Our men
drew the canoe ashore, placed the things to the best advantage in her;
and came off in the pinnace which I sent to guard them. And now, being
well stocked with wood and all my water-casks full, I resolved to sail
the next morning. All the time of our stay here we had very fair weather;
only sometimes in the afternoon we had a shower of rain which lasted not
above an hour at most: also some thunder and lightning with very little
wind. We had sea- and land-breezes; the former between the
south-south-east, and the latter from north-east to north-west.
HE NAMES THE PLACE PORT MONTAGUE. THE COUNTRY THEREABOUTS DESCRIBED, AND
ITS PRODUCE.
This place I named port Montague in honour of my noble patron. It lies in
the latitude of 6 degrees 10 minutes south, and meridian distance from
Cape St. George 151 miles west. The country hereabouts is mountainous and
woody, full of rich valleys and pleasant fresh-water brooks. The mould in
the valleys is deep and yellowish; that on the sides of the hills of a
very brown colour, and not very deep, but rocky underneath; yet excellent
planting land. The trees in general are neither very straight, thick, nor
tall; yet appear green and pleasant enough: some of them bore flowers,
some berries, and others big fruits; but all unknown to any of us.
Coconut-trees thrive very well here; as well on the bays by the seaside,
as more remote among the plantations. The nuts are of an indifferent
size, the milk and kernel very thick and pleasant. Here is ginger, yams,
and other very good roots for the pot, that our men saw and tasted. What
other fruits or roots the country affords I know not. Here are hogs and
dogs; other land-animals we saw none. The fowls we saw and knew were
pigeons, parrots, cockadores, and crows like those in England; a sort of
birds about the bigness of a blackbird, and smaller birds many. The sea
and rivers have plenty of fish; we saw abundance, though we caught but
few, and these were cavallies, yellow-tails and whip-rays.
A BURNING ISLAND DESCRIBED.
We departed from hence on the 22nd of March, and on the 24th in the
evening we saw some high land bearing north-west half west; to the west
of which we could see no land, though there appeared something like land
bearing west a little southerly; but, not being sure of it, I steered
west-north-west all night, and kept going on with an easy sail, intending
to coast along the shore at a distance. At 10 o'clock I saw a great fire
bearing north-west by west, blazing up in a pillar, sometimes very high
for 3 or 4 minutes, then falling quite down for an equal space of time;
sometimes hardly visible, till it blazed up again. I had laid me down
having been indisposed this 3 days: but upon a sight of this my chief
mate called me; I got up and viewed it for about half an hour and knew it
to be a burning hill by its intervals: I charged them to look well out,
having bright moonlight. In the morning I found that the fire we had seen
the night before was a burning island; and steered for it. We saw many
other islands, one large high island, and another smaller, but pretty
high. I stood near the volcano and many small low islands with some
shoals.
A NEW PASSAGE FOUND.
March the 25th 1700 in the evening we came within 3 leagues of this
burning hill, being at the same time 2 leagues from the main. I found a
good channel to pass between them, and kept nearer the main than the
island. At 7 in the evening I sounded, and had 52 fathom fine sand and
oaze. I stood to the northward to get clear of this strait, having but
little wind and fair weather. The island all night vomited fire and smoke
very amazingly; and at every belch we heard a dreadful noise like
thunder, and saw a flame of fire after it, the most terrifying that ever
I saw. The intervals between its belches were about half a minute, some
more, others less: neither were these pulses or eruptions alike; for some
were but faint convulsions in comparison of the more vigorous; yet even
the weakest vented a great deal of fire; but the largest made a roaring
noise, and sent up a large flame 20 or 30 yards high; and then might be
seen a great stream of fire running down to the foot of the island, even
to the shore. From the furrows made by this descending fire we could in
the daytime see great smokes arise, which probably were made by the
sulphureous matter thrown out of the funnel at the top which, tumbling
down to the bottom and there lying in a heap, burned till either consumed
or extinguished; and as long as it burned and kept its heat so long the
smoke ascended from it; which we perceived to increase or decrease,
according to the quantity of matter discharged from the funnel. But the
next night, being shot to the westward of the burning island, and the
funnel of it lying on the south side, we could not discern the fire there
as we did the smoke in the day when we were to the southward of it. This
volcano lies in the latitude of 5 degrees 33 minutes south, and meridian
distance from Cape St. George 332 miles west.
NEW BRITAIN.
The eastermost part of New Guinea lies 40 miles to the westward of this
tract of land, and by hydrographers they are made joining together: but
here I found an opening and passage between, with many islands; the
largest of which lie on the north side of this passage or strait. The
channel is very good, between the islands and the land to the eastward.
The east part of New Guinea is high and mountainous, ending on the
north-east with a large promontory, which I named King William's Cape in
honour of his present majesty. We saw some smokes on it; and, leaving it
on our larboard side, steered away near the east land which ends with two
remarkable capes or heads distant from each other about 6 or 7 leagues.
Within each head were two very remarkable mountains, ascending very
gradually from the seaside; which afforded a very pleasant and agreeable
prospect. The mountains and lower land were pleasantly mixed with
woodland and savannahs. The trees appeared very green and flourishing;
and the savannahs seemed to be very smooth and even; no meadow in England
appears more green in the spring than these. We saw smokes but did not
strive to anchor here; but rather chose to get under one of the islands
(where I thought I should find few or no inhabitants) that I might repair
my pinnace, which was so crazy that I could not venture ashore anywhere
with her. As we stood over to the islands we looked out very well to the
north, but could see no land that way; by which I was well assured that
we were got through, and that this east land does not join to New Guinea;
therefore I named it New Britain. The north-west cape I called Cape
Gloucester, and the south-west point Cape Anne; and the north-west
mountain, which is very remarkable, I called Mount Gloucester.
This island which I called New Britain has about 4 degrees of latitude:
the body of it lying in 4 degrees and the northermost part in 2 degrees
30 minutes and the southermost in 6 degrees 30 minutes south. It has
about 5 degrees 18 minutes longitude from east to west. It is generally
high, mountainous land, mixed with large valleys; which as well as the
mountains appeared very fertile; and in most places that we saw the trees
are very large, tall and thick. It is also very well inhabited with
strong well-limbed negroes, whom we found very daring and bold at several
places. As to the product of it I know no more than what I have said in
my account of Port Montague: but it is very probable this island may
afford as many rich commodities as any in the world; and the natives may
be easily brought to commerce, though I could not pretend to it under my
present circumstances.
SIR GEORGE ROOK'S ISLAND.
Being near the island to the northward of the volcano I sent my boat to
sound, thinking to anchor here; but she returned and brought me word that
they had no ground, till they met with a reef of coral rocks about a mile
from the shore. Then I bore away to the north side of the island where we
found no anchoring neither. We saw several people, and some
coconut-trees, but could not send ashore for want of my pinnace which was
out of order. In the evening I stood off to sea to be at such a distance
that I might not be driven by any current upon the shoals of this island
if it should prove calm. We had but little wind, especially the beginning
of the night; but in the morning I found myself so far to the west of the
island that, the wind being at east-south-east, I could not fetch it;
wherefore I kept on to the southward and stemmed with the body of a high
island about 11 or 12 leagues long, lying to the southward of that which
I before designed for. I named this island Sir George Rook's Island.
LONG ISLAND AND CROWN ISLAND, DISCOVERED AND DESCRIBED.
We also saw some other islands to the westward; which may be better seen
in my chart of these lands than here described. But, seeing a very small
island lying to the north-west of the long island which was before us,
and not far from it, I steered away for that; hoping to find anchoring
there: and, having but little wind, I sent my boat before to sound;
which, when we were about 2 miles distance from the shore, came on board
and brought me word that there was good anchoring in 30 or 40 fathom
water, a mile from the isle and within a reef of the rocks which lay in a
half-moon, reaching from the north part of the island to the south-east:
so at noon we got in and anchored in 36 fathom a mile from the isle.
In the afternoon I sent my boat ashore to the island to see what
convenience there was to haul our vessel ashore in order to be mended,
and whether we could catch any fish. My men in the boat rowed about the
island, but could not land by reason of the rocks and a great surge
running in upon the shore. We found variation here 8 degrees 25 minutes
west.
I designed to have stayed among these islands till I had got my pinnace
refitted; but, having no more than one man who had skill to work upon
her, I saw she would be a long time in repairing (which was one great
reason why I could not prosecute my discoveries further) and, the
easterly winds being set in, I found I should scarce be able to hold my
ground.
The 31st in the forenoon we shot in between 2 islands lying about 4
leagues asunder; with intention to pass between them. The southermost is
a long island with a high hill at each end; this I named Long island. The
northermost is a round high island towering up with several heads or
tops, something resembling a crown; this I named Crown Isle from its
form. Both these islands appeared very pleasant, having spots of green
savannahs mixed among the woodland: the trees appeared very green and
flourishing, and some of them looked white and full of blossoms. We
passed close by Crown Isle; saw many coconut-trees on the bays and the
sides of the hills; and one boat was coming off from the shore but
returned again. We saw no smokes on either of the islands, neither did we
see any plantations; and it is probable they are not very well peopled.
We saw many shoals near Crown Island, and reefs of rocks running off from
the points a mile or more into the sea. My boat was once overboard with
design to have sent her ashore; but, having little wind and seeing some
shoals, I hoisted her in again and stood off out of danger.
SIR R. RICH'S ISLAND.
In the afternoon, seeing an island bearing north-west by west, we steered
away north-west by north, to be to the northward of it. The next morning,
being about midway from the islands we left yesterday, and having this to
the westward of us; the land of the main of New Guinea within us to the
southward appeared very high. When we came within 4 or 5 leagues of this
island to the west of us, 4 boats came off to view us: one came within
call, but returned with the other 3 without speaking to us: so we kept
on for the island which I named Sir R. Rich's Island. It was pretty high,
woody, and mixed with savannahs like those formerly mentioned. Being to
the north of it we saw an opening between it and another island 2 leagues
to the west of it, which before appeared all in one. The main seemed to
be high land, trending to the westward.
A BURNING ISLAND.
On Tuesday the 2nd of April about 8 in the morning we discovered a high
peaked island to the westward which seemed to smoke at its top. The next
day we passed by the north side of the burning island and saw a smoke
again at its top; but, the vent lying on the south side of the peak, we
could not observe it distinctly, nor see the fire. We afterwards opened 3
more islands and some land to the southward, which we could not well tell
whether it were islands or part of the main. These islands are all high,
full of fair trees and spots of green savannahs; as well the burning isle
as the rest; but the burning isle was more round and peaked at top, very
fine land near the sea, and for two-thirds up it. We also saw another
isle sending forth a great smoke at once; but it soon vanished, and we
saw it no more. We saw also among these islands 3 small vessels with
sails, which the people on New Britain seem wholly ignorant of.
A STRANGE SPOUT.
The 11th at noon, having a very good observation, I found myself to the
northward of my reckoning; and thence concluded that we had a current
setting north-west, or rather more westerly, as the land lies. From that
time to the next morning we had fair clear weather and a fine moderate
gale from south-east to east by north: but at daybreak the clouds began
to fly, and it lightned very much in the east, south-east and north-east.
At sun-rising the sky looked very red in the east near the horizon; and
there were many black clouds both to the south and north of it. About a
quarter of an hour after the sun was up there was a squall to the
windward of us; when on a sudden one of our men on the forecastle called
out that he saw something astern, but could not tell what: I looked out
for it and immediately saw a spout beginning to work within a quarter of
a mile of us, exactly in the wind. We presently put right before it. It
came very swiftly, whirling the water up in a pillar about 6 or 7 yards
high. As yet I could not see any pendulous cloud from whence it might
come; and was in hopes it would soon lose its force. In 4 or 5 minutes
time it came within a cable's length of us and passed away to leeward;
and then I saw a long pale stream coming down to the whirling water. This
stream was about the bigness of a rainbow: the upper end seemed vastly
high, not descending from any dark cloud and therefore the most strange
to me; I never having seen the like before. It passed about a mile to
leeward of us and then broke. This was but a small spout, not strong nor
lasting; yet I perceived much wind in it as it passed by us. The current
still continued at north-west a little westerly, which I allowed to run a
mile per hour.
A CONJECTURE CONCERNING A NEW PASSAGE SOUTHWARD.
By an observation the 13th at noon I found myself 25 minutes to the
northward of my reckoning; whether occasioned by bad steerage, a bad
account, or a current, I could not determine; but was apt to judge it
might be a complication of all; for I could not think it was wholly the
current, the land here lying east by south, and west by north, or a
little more northerly and southerly. We had kept so nigh as to see it,
and at farthest had not been above 20 leagues from it, but sometimes much
nearer; and it is not probable that any current should set directly off
from a land. A tide indeed may; but then the flood has the same force to
strike in upon the shore as the ebb to strike off from it: but a current
must have set nearly alongshore either easterly or westerly; and if
anything northerly or southerly, it could be but very little in
comparison of its east or west course, on a coast lying as this doth;
which yet we did not perceive. If therefore we were deceived by a current
it is very probable that the land is here disjoined, and that there is a
passage through to the southward, and that the land from King William's
Cape to this place is an island, separated from New Guinea by some strait
as New Britain is by that which we came through. But this being at best
but a probable conjecture I shall insist no farther upon it.
KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND.
The 14th we passed by Schouten's Island and Providence Island, and found
still a very strong current setting to the north-west. On the 17th the we
saw a high mountain on the main that sent forth great quantities of smoke
from its top: this volcano we did not see in our voyage out. In the
afternoon we discovered King William's Island, and crowded all the sail
we could to get near it before night; thinking to lie to the eastward of
it till day, for fear of some shoals that lie at the west end of it.
Before night we got within 2 leagues of it and, having a fine gale of
wind and a light moon, I resolved to pass through in the night; which I
hoped to do before 12 o'clock if the gale continued; but when we came
within 2 miles of it it fell calm; yet afterwards, by the help of the
current, a small gale, and our boat, we got through before day. In the
night we had a very fragrant smell from the island.
STRANGE WHIRLPOOLS.
By morning-light we were got 2 leagues to the westward of it; and then
were becalmed all the morning; and met such whirling tides that when we
came into them the ship turned quite round; and though sometimes we had a
small gale of wind yet she could not feel the helm when she came into
these whirlpools: neither could we get from amongst them till a brisk
gale sprang up; yet we drove not much any way, but whirled round like a
top. And those whirlpools were not constant to one place, but drove about
strangely; and sometimes we saw among them large ripplings of the water,
like great overfalls, making a fearful noise. I sent my boat to sound but
found no ground.
DISTANCE BETWEEN CAPE MABO AND CAPE ST. GEORGE COMPUTED.
The 18th Cape Mabo bore south distance 9 leagues. By which account it
lies in the latitude of 50 minutes south and meridian distance from Cape
St. George 1243 miles. St. John's Isle lies 48 miles to the east of Cape
St. George; which, being added to the distance between Cape St. George
and Cape Mabo, makes 1291 meridional parts; which was the furthest that I
was to the east. In my outward-bound voyage I made meridian distance
between Cape Mabo and Cape St. George 1290 miles; and now in my return
but 1243; which is 47 short of my distance going out. This difference may
probably be occasioned by the strong western current which we found in
our return, which I allowed for after I perceived it; and though we did
not discern any current when we went to the eastward, except when near
the islands, yet it is probable we had one against us, though we did not
take notice of it because of the strong westerly winds. King William's
Island lies in the latitude of 21 minutes south, and may be seen
distinctly off of Cape Mabo.
In the evening we passed by Cape Mabo; and afterwards steered away
south-east half east, keeping along the shore which here trends
south-easterly. The next morning, seeing a large opening in the land with
an island near the south side, I stood in, thinking to anchor there. When
we were shot in within 2 leagues of the island the wind came to the west,
which blows right into the opening. I stood to the north shore;
intending, when I came pretty nigh, to send my boat into the opening, and
sound before I would adventure in. We found several deep bays, but no
soundings within 2 miles of the shore; therefore I stood off again. Then,
seeing a rippling under our lee, I sent my boat to sound on it; which
returned in half an hour and brought me word that the rippling we saw was
only a tide, and that they had no ground there.