PLYING ON THE NEW GUINEA COAST.
DEPARTURE FROM TIMOR.
On the 12th of December 1699 we sailed from Babao, coasting along the
island Timor to the eastward towards New Guinea. It was the 20th before
we got as far as Laphao, which is but forty leagues. We saw black clouds
in the north-west and expected the wind from that quarter above a month
sooner.
THE ISLANDS OMBA AND FETTER.
That afternoon we saw the opening between the islands Omba and Fetter,
but feared to pass through in the night. At two o'clock in the morning it
fell calm; and continued so till noon, in which time we drove with the
current back again south-west six or seven leagues.
On the 22nd, steering to the eastward to get through between Omba and
Fetter, we met a very strong tide against us, so that we, although we had
a very fresh gale, yet made way very slowly; yet before night got
through. By a good observation we found that the south-east point of Omba
lies in latitude 8 degrees 25 minutes. In my charts it is laid down in 8
degrees 10 minutes. My true course from Babao is east 25 degrees north,
distance one hundred and eighty-three miles. We sounded several times
when near Omba, but had no ground. On the north-east point of Omba we saw
four or five men, and a little further three pretty houses on a low
point, but did not go ashore.
At five this afternoon we had a tornado which yielded much rain, thunder
and lightning; yet we had but little wind. The 24th in the morning we
caught a large shark, which gave all the ship's company a plentiful meal.
A BURNING ISLAND.
The 27th we saw the burning island, it lies in latitude 6 degrees 36
minutes south; it is high and but small. It runs from the sea a little
sloping towards the top; which is divided in the middle into two peaks,
between which issued out much smoke: I have not seen more from any
volcano. I saw no trees; but the north side appeared green, and the rest
looked very barren.
THEIR MISSING THE TURTLE ISLES.
Having passed the burning island I shaped my course for two islands
called Turtle Isles which lie north-east by east a little easterly, and
distant about fifty leagues from the burning isle. I, fearing the wind
might veer to the eastward of the north, steered 20 leagues north-east,
then north-east by east. On the 28th we saw two small low islands called
Luca Paros, to the north of us. At noon I accounted myself 20 leagues
short of the Turtle Isles.
BANDA ISLES.
The next morning, being in the latitude of the Turtle Islands, we looked
out sharp for them but saw no appearance of any island till 11 o'clock;
when we saw an island at a great distance. At first we supposed it might
be one of the Turtle Isles: but it was not laid down true, neither in
latitude nor longitude from the burning isle, nor from the Luca Paros,
which last I took to be a great help to guide me, they being laid down
very well from the burning isle, and that likewise in true latitude and
distance from Omba: so that I could not tell what to think of the island
now in sight; we having had fair weather, so that we could not pass by
the Turtle Isles without seeing them; and this in sight was much too far
off for them. We found variation 1 degree 2 minutes east. In the
afternoon I steered north-east by east for the islands that we saw. At 2
o'clock I went and looked over the fore-yard, and saw 2 islands at much
greater distance than the Turtle Islands are laid down in my charts; one
of them was a very high peaked mountain, cleft at top, and much like the
burning island that we passed by, but bigger and higher; the other was a
pretty long high flat island. Now I was certain that these were not the
Turtle Islands, and that they could be no other than the Banda Isles; yet
we steered in to make them plainer. At 3 o'clock we discovered another
small flat island to the north-west of the others, and saw a great deal
of smoke rise from the top of the high island; at 4 we saw other small
islands, by which I was now assured that these were the Banda Isles
there. At 5 I altered my course and steered east, and at 8
east-south-east; because I would not be seen by the inhabitants of those
islands in the morning.
BIRD ISLAND.
We had little wind all night: and in the morning as soon as it was light
we saw another high peaked island: at 8 it bore south-south-east half
east, distance 8 leagues. And this I knew to be Bird Isle. It is laid
down in our charts in latitude 5 degrees 9 minutes south, which is too
far southerly by 27 miles according to our observation; and the like
error in laying down the Turtle Islands might be the occasion of our
missing them.
At night I shortened sail for fear of coming too nigh some islands that
stretch away bending like a half moon from Ceram towards Timor, and which
in my course I must of necessity pass through. The next morning betimes I
saw them; and found them to be at a farther distance from Bird Island
than I expected. In the afternoon it fell quite calm; and when we had a
little wind it was so unconstant, flying from one point to another, that
I could not without difficulty get through the islands where I designed:
besides I found a current setting to the southward; so that it was
betwixt 5 and 6 in the evening before I passed through the islands; and
then just weathered little Waiela, whereas I thought to have been 2 or 3
leagues more northerly. We saw the day before, betwixt 2 and 3, a spout
but a small distance from us. It fell down out of a black cloud that
yielded great store of rain, thunder, and lightning: this cloud hovered
to the southward of us for the space of three hours, and then drew to the
westward a great pace; at which time it was that we saw the spout, which
hung fast to the cloud till it broke; and then the cloud whirled about to
the south-east, then to east-north-east; where, meeting with an island,
it spent itself and so dispersed; and immediately we had a little of the
tail of it, having had none before. Afterward we saw a smoke on the
island Kosiway, which continued all night.
1700.
THEY DESCRY THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
On New Year's Day we first descried the land of New Guinea, which
appeared to be high land; and the next day we saw several high islands on
the coast of New Guinea, and ran in with the mainland. The shore here
lies along east-south-east and west-north-west. It is high even land,
very well clothed with tall flourishing trees, which appeared very green
and gave us a very pleasant prospect. We ran to the westward of four
mountainous islands; and in the night had a small tornado, which brought
with it some rain and a fair wind. We had fair weather for a long time;
only when near any land we had some tornadoes; but off at sea commonly
clear weather; though if in sight of land we usually saw many black
clouds hovering about it.
THEY ANCHOR ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
On the 5th and 6th of January we plied to get in with the land; designing
to anchor, fill water, and spend a little time in searching the country,
till after the change of the moon; for I found a strong current setting
against us. We anchored in 38 fathom water, good oazie ground. We had an
island of a league long without us, about 3 miles distant; and we rode
from the main about a mile. The easternmost point of land seen bore east
by south half south, distance 3 leagues: and the westernmost
west-south-west half south, distance 2 leagues. So soon as we anchored we
sent the pinnace to look for water, and try if they could catch any fish.
Afterwards we sent the yawl another way to see for water. Before night
the pinnace brought on board several sorts of fruits that they found in
the woods, such as I never saw before.
A DESCRIPTION OF THE PLACE, AND OF A STRANGE FOWL FOUND THERE.
One of my men killed a stately land-fowl, as big as the largest
dunghill-cock. It was of a sky-colour; only in the middle of the wings
was a white spot, about which were some reddish spots: on the crown it
had a large bunch of long feathers, which appeared very pretty. His bill
was like a pigeon's; he had strong legs and feet, like dunghill-fowls;
only the claws were reddish. His crop was full of small berries. It lays
an egg as big as a large hen's egg; for our men climbed the tree where it
nested and brought off one egg. They found water; and reported that the
trees were large, tall and very thick; and that they saw no sign of
people. At night the yawl came aboard and brought a wooden fishgig, very
ingeniously made; the matter of it was a small cane; they found it by a
small barbecue, where they also saw a shattered canoe.
GREAT QUANTITIES OF MACKEREL.
The next morning I sent the boatswain ashore a-fishing and at one haul he
caught 352 mackerels and about 20 other fishes; which I caused to be
equally divided among all my company. I sent also the gunner and chief
mate to search about if they could find convenient anchoring nearer a
watering-place: by night they brought word that they had found a fine
stream of good water, where the boat could come close to and it was very
easy to be filled; and that the ship might anchor as near to it as I
pleased: so I went thither. The next morning therefore we anchored in 25
fathom water, soft oazie ground, about a mile from the river: we got on
board 3 tun of water that night; and caught 2 or 3 pike-fish, in shape
much like a parracota, but with a longer snout, something resembling a
gar, yet not so long. The next day I sent the boat again for water and
before night all my casks were full.
A WHITE ISLAND.
Having filled here about 15 tuns of water, seeing we could catch but
little fish, and had no other refreshments, I intended to sail next day;
but finding that we wanted wood I sent to cut some; and going ashore to
hasten it, at some distance from the place where our men were, I found a
small cove where I saw two barbecues, which appeared not to be above 2
months standing: the spars were cut with some sharp instrument; so that,
if done by the natives, it seems that they have iron. On the 10th, a
little after 12 o'clock, we weighed and stood over to the north side of
the bay; and at 1 o'clock stood out with the wind at north and
north-north-west. At 4 we passed out by a White Island, which I so named
from its many white cliffs, having no name in our charts. It is about a
league long, pretty high, and very woody: it is about 5 miles from the
main, only at the west end it reaches within 3 miles of it. At some
distance off at sea the west point appears like a cape land; the north
side trends away north-north-west, and the east side east-south-east.
This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 4 minutes south; and the meridian
distance from Babao, 500 and 12 miles east. After we were out to sea we
plied to get to the northward; but met with such a strong current against
us that we got but little. For if the wind favoured us in the night, that
we got 3 or 4 leagues; we lost it again and were driven as far astern
next morning, so that we plied here several days.
The 14th, being past a point of land that we had been 3 days getting
about, we found little or no current; so that, having the wind at
north-west by west and west-north-west, we stood to the northward, and
had several soundings: at 3 o'clock, 38 fathom; the nearest part of New
Guinea being about 3 leagues distance: at 4, 37; at 5, 36; at 6, 36; at
8, 33 fathom; then the cape was about 4 leagues distant; so that as we
ran off we found our water shallower. We had then some islands to the
westward of us, at about four leagues distance.
THEY ANCHOR AT AN ISLAND CALLED BY THE INHABITANTS PULO SABUDA. A
DESCRIPTION OF IT AND ITS INHABITANTS AND PRODUCT.
A little after noon we saw smokes on the islands to the west of us; and,
having a fine gale of wind, I steered away for them: at 7 o'clock in the
evening we anchored in 35 fathom, about two leagues from an island, good
soft oazie ground. We lay still all night, and saw fires ashore. In the
morning we weighed again, and ran farther in, thinking to have shallower
water; but we ran within a mile of the shore, and came to in 38 fathom,
good soft holding ground. While we were under sail 2 canoes came off
within call of us: they spoke to us, but we did not understand their
language, nor signs. We waved to them to come aboard, and I called to
them in the Malayan language to do the same; but they would not; yet they
came so nigh us that we could show them such things as we had to truck
with them; yet neither would this entice them to come aboard; but they
made signs for us to come ashore, and away they went. Then I went after
them in my pinnace, carrying with me knives, beads, glasses, hatchets,
etc. When we came near the shore I called to them in the Malayan
language: I saw but 2 men at first, the rest lying in ambush behind the
bushes; but as soon as I threw ashore some knives and other toys they
came out, flung down their weapons, and came into the water by the boat's
side, making signs of friendship by pouring water on their heads with one
hand which they dipped into the sea. The next day in the afternoon
several other canoes came aboard and brought many roots and fruits, which
we purchased.
This island has no name in our charts but the natives call it Pulo
Sabuda. It is about 3 leagues long and 2 miles wide, more or less. It is
of a good height so as to be seen 11 or 12 leagues. It is very rocky; yet
above the rocks there is good yellow and black mould; not deep yet
producing plenty of good tall trees, and bearing any fruits or roots
which the inhabitants plant. I do not know all its produce; but what we
saw were plantains, coconuts, pineapples, oranges, papaws, potatoes, and
other large roots. Here are also another sort of wild jacas, about the
bigness of a man's two fists, full of stones or kernels, which eat
pleasant enough when roasted. The libby-tree grows here in the swampy
valleys, of which they make sago cakes: I did not see them make any but
was told by the inhabitants that it was made of the pith of the tree in
the same manner I have described in my Voyage round the World. They
showed me the tree whereof it was made, and I bought about 40 of the
cakes. I bought also 3 or 4 nutmegs in their shell, which did not seem to
have been long gathered; but, whether they be the growth of this island
or not, the natives would not tell whence they had them, and seemed to
prize them very much. What beasts the island affords I know not: but here
are both sea- and land-fowl. Of the first boobies and men-of-war-birds
are the chief; some galdens, and small milk-white crab-catchers. The
land-fowls are pigeons, about the bigness of mountain-pigeons in Jamaica;
and crows about the bigness of those in England, and much like them; but
the inner part of their feathers are white, and the outside black; so
that they appear all black, unless you extend the feathers. Here are
large sky-coloured birds, such as we lately killed on New Guinea; and
many other small birds unknown to us. Here are likewise abundance of
bats, as big as young coneys; their necks, head, ears and noses, like
foxes; their hair rough; that about their necks is of a whitish yellow,
that on their heads and shoulders black; their wings are 4 foot over from
tip to tip: they smell like foxes. The fish are bass, rock-fish, and a
sort of fish like mullet, old-wives, whip-rays, and some other sorts that
I know not, but no great plenty of any; for it is deep water till within
less than a mile of the shore; then there is a bank of coral rocks within
which you have shoal water, white clean sand: so there is no good fishing
with the seine.
This island lies in latitude 2 degrees 43 minutes south and meridian
distance from Port Babao on the island Timor 486 miles. Besides this
island here are 9 or 10 other small islands, as they are laid down in the
charts.
The inhabitants of this island are a sort of very tawny Indians, with
long black hair; who in their manners differ but little from the
Mindanayans, and others of these eastern islands. These seem to be the
chief; for besides them we saw also shock curl-pated New Guinea negroes;
many of which are slaves to the others, but I think not all. They are
very poor, wear no clothes, but have a clout about their middle, made of
the rinds of the tops of palmetto-trees; but the women had a sort of
calico cloths. Their chief ornaments are blue and yellow beads, worn
about their wrists. The men arm themselves with bows and arrows, lances,
broad swords like those of Mindanao; their lances are pointed with bone.
THE INDIANS' MANNER OF FISHING THERE.
They strike fish very ingeniously with wooden fishgigs, and have a very
ingenious way of making the fish rise: for they have a piece of wood,
curiously carved and painted much like a dolphin (and perhaps other
figures) these they let down into the water by a line with a small weight
to sink it; when they think it low enough they haul the line into their
boats very fast, and the fish rise up after this figure; and they stand
ready to strike them when they are near the surface of the water. But
their chief livelihood is from their plantations. Yet they have large
boats, and go over to New Guinea where they get slaves, fine parrots,
etc., which they carry to Goram and exchange for calicos. One boat came
from thence a little before I arrived here; of whom I bought some
parrots; and would have bought a slave but they would not barter for
anything but calicos, which I had not. Their houses on this side were
very small, and seemed only to be for necessity; but on the other side of
the island we saw good large houses. Their proas are narrow with
outlagers on each side, like other Malayans. I cannot tell of what
religion these are; but I think they are not Mahomedans, by their
drinking brandy out of the same cup with us without any scruple. At this
island we continued till the 20th instant, having laid in store of such
roots and fruits as the island afforded.
On the 20th at half hour after 6 in the morning I weighed and, standing
out, we saw a large boat full of men lying at the north point of the
island. As we passed by they rowed towards their habitations, where we
supposed they had withdrawn themselves for fear of us (though we gave
them no cause of terror) or for some differences among themselves.
We stood to the northward till 7 in the evening; then saw a rippling;
and, the water being discoloured, we sounded, and had but 22 fathom. I
went about and stood to the westward till 2 next morning, then tacked
again and had these several soundings: at 8 in the evening, 22; at 10,
25; at 11, 27; at 12, 28 fathom; at 2 in the morning 26; at 4, 24; at 6,
23; at 8, 28; at 12, 22.
ARRIVAL AT MABO, THE NORTH-WEST CAPE OF NEW GUINEA. A DESCRIPTION OF IT.
We passed by many small islands and among many dangerous shoals without
any remarkable occurrence till the 4th of February, when we got within 3
leagues of the north-west cape of New Guinea, called by the Dutch Cape
Mabo. Off this cape there lies a small woody island, and many islands of
different sizes to the north and north-east of it. This part of New
Guinea is high land, adorned with tall trees that appeared very green and
flourishing. The cape itself is not very high, but ends in a low sharp
point; and on either side there appears another such point at equal
distances, which makes it resemble a diamond. This only appears when you
are abreast of the middle point; and then you have no ground within 3
leagues of the shore.
COCKLE ISLAND.
In the afternoon we passed by the cape and stood over for the islands.
Before it was dark we were got within a league of the westermost; but had
no ground with 50 fathom of line. However, fearing to stand nearer in the
dark, we tacked and stood to the east, and plied all night. The next
morning we were got 5 or 6 leagues to the eastward of that island; and,
having the wind easterly, we stood in to the northward among the islands,
sounded, and had no ground. Then I sent in my boat to sound, and they had
ground with 50 fathom near a mile from the shore. We tacked before the
boat came aboard again for fear of a shoal that was about a mile to the
east of that island the boat went to; from whence also a shoal point
stretched out itself till it met the other: they brought with them such a
cockle as I have mentioned in my Voyage round the World, found near
Celebes; and they saw many more, some bigger than that which they brought
aboard, as they said; and for this reason I named it Cockle Island. I
sent them to sound again, ordering them to fire a musket if they found
good anchoring; we were then standing to the southward, with a fine
breeze. As soon as they fired I tacked and stood in: they told me they
had 50 fathom when they fired. I tacked again, and made all the sail I
could to get out, being near some rocky islands and shoals to leeward of
us. The breeze increased, and I thought we were out of danger; but,
having a shoal just by us, and the wind falling again, I ordered the boat
to tow us, and by their help we got clear from it. We had a strong tide
setting to the westward.
COCKLES OF SEVENTY-EIGHT POUND WEIGHT.
At 1 o'clock, being past the shoal and finding the tide setting to the
westward, I anchored in 35 fathom, coarse sand with small coral and
shells. Being nearest to Cockle Island I immediately sent both the boats
thither; one to cut wood, and the other to fish. At 4 in the afternoon,
having a small breeze at south-south-west, I made a sign for my boats to
come aboard. They brought some wood and a few small cockles, none of them
exceeding 10 pound weight; whereas the shell of the great one weighed 78
pound; but it was now high-water and therefore they could get no bigger.
They also brought on board some pigeons, of which we found plenty on all
the islands where we touched in these seas. Also in many places we saw
many large bats, but killed none, except those I mentioned at Pulo
Sabuda. As our boats came aboard we weighed and made sail, steering
east-south-east as long as the wind held; in the morning we found we had
got 4 or 5 leagues to the east of the place where we weighed. We stood to
and fro till 11; and, finding that we lost ground, anchored in 42 fathom,
coarse gravelly sand with some coral. This morning we thought we saw a
sail.
PIGEON ISLAND.
In the afternoon I went ashore on a small woody island about 2 leagues
from us. Here I found the greatest number of pigeons that ever I saw
either in the east or West Indies, and small cockles in the sea round the
island in such quantities that we might have laden the boat in an hour's
time: these were not above 10 or 12 pound weight. We cut some wood and
brought off cockles enough for all the ship's company; but having no
small shot we could kill no pigeons. I returned about 4 o'clock; and then
my gunner and both mates went thither, and in less than three-quarters of
an hour they killed and brought off 10 pigeons. Here is a tide: the flood
sets west and the ebb east; but the latter is very faint and but of small
continuance. And so we found it ever since we came from Timor.
THE WIND HEREABOUTS.
The winds we found easterly, between north-east and east-south-east; so
that, if these continue, it is impossible to beat farther to the eastward
on this coast against wind and current. These easterly winds increased
from the time we were in the latitude of about 2 degrees south; and as we
drew nigher the Line they hung more easterly. And now, being to the north
of the continent of New Guinea where the coast lies east and west, I find
the tradewind here at east; which yet in higher latitudes is usually at
north-north-west and north-west; and so I did expect them here, it being
to the south of the Line.
AN EMPTY COCKLESHELL WEIGHING TWO HUNDRED FIFTY-EIGHT POUND.
The 7th in the morning I sent my boat ashore on Pigeon Island and stayed
till noon. In the afternoon my men returned, brought 22 pigeons, and many
cockles, some very large, some small: they also brought one empty shell
that weighed 258 pound.
KING WILLIAM'S ISLAND. A DESCRIPTION OF IT.
At 4 o'clock we weighed, having a small westerly wind and a tide with us;
at 7 in the evening we anchored in 42 fathom, near King William's Island,
where I went ashore the next morning, drank His Majesty's health, and
honoured it with his name. It is about 2 leagues and a half in length,
very high, and extraordinarily well clothed with woods. The trees are of
divers sorts, most unknown to us, but all very green and flourishing;
many of them had flowers, some white, some purple, others yellow; all
which smelt very fragrantly. The trees are generally tall and
straight-bodied, and may be fit for any uses. I saw one of a clean body,
without knot or limb, 60 are 70 foot high by estimation. It was 3 of my
fathoms about, and kept its bigness without any sensible decrease even to
the top. The mould of the island is black but not deep; it being very
rocky. On the sides and top of the island are many palmetto-trees whose
heads we could discern over all the other trees, but their bodies we
could not see.
About 1 in the afternoon we weighed and stood to the eastward, between
the main and King William's Island; leaving the island on our larboard
side and sounding till we were past the island; and then we had no
ground. Here we found the flood setting east by north, and the ebb west
by south. There were shoals and small islands between us and the main,
which caused the tide to set very inconstantly, and make many whirlings
in the water; yet we did not find the tide to set strong any way, nor the
water to rise much.
PLYING ON THE COAST OF NEW GUINEA.
On the 9th, being to the eastward of King William's Island, we plied all
day between the main and other islands, having easterly winds and fair
weather till 7 the next morning. Then we had very hard rain till 8 and
saw many shoals of fish. We lay becalmed off a pretty deep bay on New
Guinea, about 12 or 14 leagues wide and 7 or 8 leagues deep, having low
land near its bottom, but high land without. The eastermost part of New
Guinea seen bore east by south, distant 12 leagues: Cape Mabo
west-south-west half south, distant 7 leagues.
At 1 in the afternoon it began to rain and continued till 6 in the
evening; so that, having but little wind and most calms, we lay still off
the forementioned bay, having King William's Island still in sight,
though distant by judgment 15 or 16 leagues west. We saw many shoals of
small fish, some sharks, and 7 or 8 dolphins; but caught none. In the
afternoon, being about 4 leagues from the shore, we saw an opening in the
land which seemed to afford good harbour: in the evening we saw a large
fire there; and I intended to go in (if winds and weather would permit)
to get some acquaintance with the natives.
Since the 4th instant that we passed Cape Mabo to the 12th we had small
easterly winds and calms, so that we anchored several times; where I made
my men cut wood, that we might have a good stock when a westerly wind
should present; and so we plied to the eastward, as winds and currents
would permit; having not got in all above 30 leagues to the eastward of
Cape Mabo. But on the 12th, at 4 in the afternoon, a small gale sprang up
at north-east by north with rain: at 5 it shuffled about to north-west,
from thence to the south-west, and continued between those 2 points a
pretty brisk gale; so that we made sail and steered away north-east, till
the 13th in the morning, to get about the Cape of Good Hope. When it was
day we steered north-east half east, then north-east by east till 7
o'clock; and being then 7 or 8 leagues off shore we steered away east;
the shore trending east by south. We had very much rain all night, so
that we could not carry much sail; yet we had a very steady gale. At 8
this morning the weather cleared up and the wind decreased to a fine
top-gallant gale, and settled at west by south. We had more rain these 3
days past than all the voyage in so short time. We were now about 6
leagues from the land of New Guinea, which appeared very high; and we saw
2 headlands, about 20 leagues asunder; the one to the east, and the other
to the west, which last is called the Cape of Good Hope. We found
variation east 4 degrees.
FAULT OF THE CHARTS.
The 15th in the morning between 12 and 2 o'clock it blew a very brisk
gale at north-west and looked very black in the south-west. At 2 it flew
about at once to the south-south-west and rained very hard. The wind
settled some time at west-south-west, and we steered east-north-east till
3 in the morning: then, the wind and rain abating, we steered east half
north for fear of coming near the land. Presently after, it being a
little clear, the man at the bowsprit-end called out, "Land on our
starboard bow." We looked out and saw it plain. I presently sounded and
had but 10 fathom soft ground. The master, being somewhat scared, came
running in haste with this news, and said it was best to anchor: I told
him no, but sound again; then we had 12 fathom; the next cast, 13 and a
half; the 4th, 17 fathom; and then no ground with 50 fathom line. However
we kept off the island and did not go so fast but that we could see any
other danger before we came nigh it. For here might have been more
islands not laid down in my charts besides this. For I searched all the
charts I had, if perchance I might find any island in the one which was
not in the others; but I could find none near us. When it was day we were
about 5 leagues off the land we saw; but, I believe, not above 5 mile, or
at most 2 leagues, off it when we first saw it in the night.
PROVIDENCE ISLAND.
This is a small island but pretty high; I named it Providence. About 5
leagues to the southward of this there is another island which is called
William Schouten's Island and laid down in our charts: it is a high
island and about 20 leagues long.
It was by mere Providence that we missed the small island. For had not
the wind come to west-south-west and blown hard, so that we steered
east-north-east, we had been upon it by our course that we steered
before, if we could not have seen it. This morning we saw many great
trees and logs swim by us; which it is probable came out of some great
rivers on the main.
THEY CROSS THE LINE.
On the 16th we crossed the Line, and found variation 6 degrees 26 minutes
east. The 18th by my observation at noon we found that we had had a
current setting to the southward, and probably that drew us in so nigh
Schouten's Island. For this 24 hours we steered east by north with a
large wind, yet made but an east by south half south course; though the
variation was not above 7 degrees east.
The 21st we had a current setting to the northward, which is against the
true trade monsoon, it being now near the full moon. I did expect it
here, as in all other places. We had variation 8 degrees 45 minutes east.
The 22nd we found but little current; if any, it set to the southward.
A SNAKE PURSUED BY FISH.
On the 23rd in the afternoon we saw 2 snakes; and the next morning
another, passing by us, which was furiously assaulted by 2 fishes that
had kept us company 5 or 6 days. They were shaped like mackerel and were
about that bigness and length, and of a yellow-greenish colour. The snake
swam away from them very fast, keeping his head above water; the fish
snapped at his tail; but when he turned himself that fish would withdraw,
and another would snap; so that by turns they kept him employed; yet he
still defended himself and swam away a great pace till they were out of
sight.
The 25th betimes in the morning we saw an island to the southward of us
at about 15 leagues distance. We steered away for it, supposing it to be
that which the Dutch call Wishart's Island; but, finding it otherwise, I
called it Matthias; it being that saint's day. This island is about 9 or
10 leagues long, mountainous and woody, with many savannahs, and some
spots of land which seemed to be cleared.
SQUALLY ISLAND.
At 8 in the evening we lay by, intending, if I could, to anchor under
Matthias Isle. But the next morning, seeing another island about 7 or 8
leagues to the eastward of it, we steered away for it; at noon we came up
fair with its south-west end, intending to run along by it and anchor on
the south-east side: but the tornadoes came in so thick and hard that I
could not venture in. This island is pretty low and plain, and clothed
with wood; the trees were very green, and appeared to be large and tall,
as thick as they could stand one by another. It is about 2 or 3 leagues
long, and at the south-west point there is another small low woody island
about a mile round, and about a mile from the other. Between them there
runs a reef of rocks which joins them. (The biggest I named Squally
Island.)
THE MAIN OF NEW GUINEA.
Seeing we could not anchor here I stood away to the southward to make the
main. But, having many hard squalls and tornadoes, we were often forced
to hand all our sails and steer more easterly to go before it. On the
26th at 4 o'clock it cleared up to a hard sky, and a brisk settled gale;
then we made as much sail as we could. At 5 it cleared up over the land
and we saw, as we thought, Cape Solomaswer bearing south-south-east
distance 10 leagues. We had many great logs and trees swimming by us all
this afternoon, and much grass; we steered in south-south-east till 6,
then the wind slackened and we stood off till 7, having little wind; then
we lay by till 10, at which time we made sail and steered away east all
night. The next morning, as soon as it was light, we made all the sail we
could, and steered away east-south-east, as the land lay; being fair in
sight of it, and not above 7 leagues distance. We passed by many small
low woody islands which lay between us and the main, not laid down in our
charts. We found variation 9 degrees 50 minutes east.
The 28th we had many violent tornadoes, wind, rain, and some spouts; and
in the tornadoes the wind shifted. In the night we had fair weather, but
more lightning than we had seen at any time this voyage. This morning we
left a large high island on our larboard side, called in the Dutch charts
Wishart's Isle, about 6 leagues from the main; and, seeing many smokes
upon the main, I therefore steered towards it.