CHAPTER VIII. CHINA.

MACAO--HONG-KONG--VICTORIA--VOYAGE ON BOARD A CHINESE JUNK--THE SI-

KIANG, CALLED ALSO THE TIGRIS--WHAMPOA--CANTON, OR KUANGTSCHEU-FU--

MODE OF LIFE PURSUED BY EUROPEANS--THE CHINESE MANNERS AND CUSTOMS--

CRIMINALS AND PIRATES--MURDER OF VAUCHEE--PROMENADES AND EXCURSIONS.

A year before my arrival in China, it would have seemed hardly

credible to me that I should ever succeed in taking my place among

the small number of Europeans who are acquainted with that

remarkable country, not from books alone, but from actual

observation; I never believed that I should really behold the

Chinese, with their shaven heads, long tails, and small, ugly,

narrow eyes, the exact counterparts of the representations of them

which we have in Europe.

We had hardly anchored, before a number of Chinese clambered up on

deck, while others remained in their boats, offering for sale a

variety of beautifully made articles, with fruit and cakes, laid out

in great order, so as to form in a few seconds a regular market

round the vessel. Some of them began praising their wares in broken

English; but on the whole, they did not drive a very flourishing

business, as the crew merely bought a few cigars, and a little

fruit.

Captain Jurianse hired a boat, and we immediately went on shore,

where each person on landing had to pay half a Spanish dollar (2s.)

to the mandarin: I subsequently heard that this imposition was

shortly afterwards abolished. We proceeded to the house of one of

the Portuguese merchants established there, passing through a large

portion of the town on our way thither. Europeans, both men and

women, can circulate freely, without being exposed to a shower of

stones, as is frequently the case in other Chinese towns. The

streets, which are exclusively inhabited by Chinese, presented a

very bustling aspect. The men were in many cases seated out of

doors in groups, playing at dominoes, while locksmiths, carpenters,

shoemakers, and many others were either working, talking, playing,

or dining in the numerous booths. I observed but few women, and

these were of the lower classes. Nothing surprised and amused me

more than the manner in which the Chinese eat; they have two little

sticks, with which they very skilfully convey their victuals into

their mouths. This process, however, cannot be so successfully

practised with rice, because it does not hold together; they

therefore hold the plate containing it close to their mouths, and

push it in by the aid of the sticks, generally letting a portion of

it fall back again, in no very cleanly fashion, into the plate. For

liquids they use round spoons of porcelain.

The style in which the houses are built, did not strike me as very

remarkable; the front generally looks out upon the courtyard or

garden.

Among other objects which I visited was the grotto, in which the

celebrated Portuguese poet, Camoens, is said to have composed the

Lusiade. He had been banished, A.D. 1556, to Macao, on account of a

satirical poem he had written, Disperates no India, and remained in

banishment several years before receiving a pardon. The grotto is

charmingly situated upon an eminence not far from the town.

As there was no business to be done, the captain resolved to put to

sea again the next morning, and offered in the most friendly manner

to take me as his guest to Hong-Kong, as I had only agreed for a

passage as far as Macao. I accepted his invitation with the greater

pleasure, as I had not a single letter to any one in Macao; besides

which, it is very seldom that there is an opportunity of proceeding

to Hong-Kong.

On account of the shallowness of the water, our ship was hove to at

rather a long distance from the shore, where it was exposed to an

attack from the pirates, who are here very daring and numerous. In

consequence of this, every precaution was taken, and the watch

doubled for the night.

As late as the year 1842 these pirates attacked a brig that was

lying at anchor in the Macao Roads, murdering the crew and

plundering the vessel. The captain had remained on shore, and the

sailors had carelessly given themselves up to sleep, leaving only

one man to keep watch. In the middle of the night a schampan--which

is the name given to a vessel smaller than a junk--came alongside

the brig. One of the rowers then came on board, pretending he had a

letter from the captain; and as the sailor went near the lantern to

read the letter, he received from the pirate a blow upon his head

which laid him senseless on the deck; the rest of those in the boat,

who had hitherto remained concealed, now scaled the side of the

brig, and quickly overpowered the slumbering crew.

In our case, however, the night passed without any incident worth

noting; and on the morning of the 10th of July, having first taken

on board a pilot, we proceeded to Hong-Kong, a distance of sixty

nautical miles. The voyage proved highly interesting, on account of

the varied succession of bays, creeks, and groups of islands which

we had to pass.

The English obtained Hong-Kong from the Chinese at the conclusion of

the war in 1842, and founded the port of Victoria, which contains at

present a large number of palace-like houses built of stone.

The Europeans who have settled here, and who are not more than two

or three hundred in number, are far from being contented, however,

as trade is not half as good as they at first expected it would be.

Every merchant is presented by the English government with a plot of

ground, on condition of his building on it. Many of them erected,

as I before mentioned, splendid edifices, which they would now be

glad to sell for half the cost price, or even very frequently to

give the ground and foundations, without asking the smallest sum in

return.

I resolved to stop only a few days in Victoria, as it was my wish to

arrive at Canton as soon as possible.

In addition to the great politeness he had previously shown me,

Captain Jurianse conferred another favour, by allowing me, during my

stay here, to live and lodge on board his ship, thereby saving me an

expense of 16s. or 24s. {91a} a day; and, besides this, the boat

which he had hired for his own use was always at my disposal. I

must also take this opportunity of mentioning that I never drank, on

board any other vessel, such clear and excellent water--a proof that

it is not so easily spoilt by the heat of the tropics, or a

protracted period, as is generally imagined. It all depends upon

care and cleanliness, for which the Dutch are especially celebrated;

and I only wish that every captain would, in this respect at least,

imitate their example. It is rather too bad for passengers to be

obliged to quench their thirst with thick and most offensive water--

a disagreeable necessity I was subjected to on board every other

sailing vessel in which I made a voyage of any length.

Victoria is not very pleasantly situated, being surrounded by barren

rocks. The town itself has a European stamp upon it, so that were

it not for the Chinese porters, labourers, and pedlars, a person

would hardly believe he was in China. I was much struck at seeing

no native women in the streets, from which it might be concluded

that it was dangerous for a European female to walk about as freely

as I did; but I never experienced the least insult, or heard the

slightest word of abuse from the Chinese; even their curiosity was

here by no means annoying.

In Victoria I had the pleasure of becoming acquainted with the well-

known Herr Gutzlaff, {91b} and four other German missionaries. They

were studying the Chinese language; and wore the Chinese costume,

with their heads shaved like the natives, and with large cues

hanging down behind. No language is so difficult to read and write

as the Chinese; it contains more than four thousand characters, and

is wholly composed of monosyllables. Little brushes dipped in

Indian ink are used for writing, the writing itself extending down

the paper from right to left.

I had not been above a few days in Victoria before I had an

opportunity of proceeding to Canton on board a small Chinese junk.

A gentleman of the name of Pustan, who is settled as a merchant

here, and whom I found excessively kind, endeavoured very earnestly

to dissuade me from trusting myself among the Chinese without any

protector, and advised me either to take a boat for myself or a

place in the steamer; but both these means were too dear for my

small finances, since either would have cost twelve dollars, whereas

a passage in the junk was only three. I must also add, that the

appearance and behaviour of the Chinese did not inspire me with the

slightest apprehension. I looked to the priming of my pistols, and

embarked very tranquilly on the evening of the 12th of July.

A heavy fall of rain, and the approach of night, soon obliged me to

seek the interior of the vessel, where I passed my time in observing

my Chinese fellow-travellers.

The company were, it is true, not very select, but behaved with

great propriety, so that there was nothing which could prevent my

remaining among them. Some were playing at dominoes, while others

were extracting most horrible sounds from a sort of mandolin with

three strings; all, however, were smoking, chatting, and drinking

tea, without sugar, from little saucers. I, too, had this celestial

drink offered to me on all sides. Every Chinese, rich or poor,

drinks neither pure water nor spirituous liquors, but invariably

indulges in weak tea with no sugar.

At a late hour in the evening I retired to my cabin, the roof of

which, not being completely waterproof, let in certain very

unwelcome proofs that it was raining outside. The captain no sooner

remarked this than he assigned me another place, where I found

myself in the company of two Chinese women, busily engaged in

smoking out of pipes with bowls no bigger than thimbles, and in

consequence they could not take more than four or five puffs without

being obliged to fill their pipes afresh.

They soon remarked that I had no stool for my head. They offered me

one of theirs, and would not be satisfied until I accepted it. It

is a Chinese custom to use, instead of pillows, little stools of

bamboo or strong pasteboard. They are not stuffed, but are rounded

at the top, and are about eight inches high, and from one to three

feet long. They are far more comfortable than would at first be

imagined.

13th July. On hurrying upon deck early in the morning to view the

mouth of the Si-Kiang, or Tigris, I found that we had already passed

it, and were a long way up the river. I saw it, however,

subsequently, on my return from Canton to Hong-Kong. The Si-Kiang,

which is one of the principal rivers of China, and which, at a short

distance before entering the sea, is eight nautical miles broad, is

so contracted by hills and rocks at its mouth, that it loses one

half of its breadth. The surrounding country is fine, and a few

fortifications on the summits of some of the hills, give it rather a

romantic appearance.

Near Hoo-man, or Whampoa, the stream divides into several branches;

that which flows to Canton being called the Pearl stream. Although

Whampoa of itself is an insignificant place, it is worthy of note,

as being the spot where, from the shallowness of the water, all

deeply laden ships are obliged to anchor.

Immense plantations of rice, skirted by bananas and other fruit-

trees, extend along the banks of the Pearl stream. The trees are

sometimes prettily arranged in alleys, but are planted far less for

ornament than for use. Rice always requires a great deal of

moisture, and the trees are planted in order to impart a greater

degree of solidity to the soil, and also to prevent the possibility

of its being washed away by the force of the stream. Pretty little

country houses of the genuine Chinese pattern, with their sloping,

pointed, indented roofs, and their coloured tiles inlaid with

different hues, were scattered here and there, under groups of shady

trees, while pagodas (called Tas) of various styles, and from three

to nine stories high, raised their heads on little eminences in the

neighbourhood of the villages, and attracted attention at a great

distance. A number of fortifications, which, however, look more

like roofless houses than anything else, protect the stream.

For miles below Canton, the villages follow one another in quick

succession. They are mostly composed of miserable huts, built for

the most part on piles driven into the river, and before them lie

innumerable boats, which also serve as dwellings.

The nearer we approached Canton, the busier became the scene on the

river, and the greater the number of ships and inhabited boats. I

saw some junks of most extraordinary shape, having poops that hung

far over the water, and provided with large windows and galleries,

and covered in with a roof, like a house. These vessels are often

of immense size, and of a thousand tons' burden. I also saw some

Chinese men-of-war, flat, broad, and long, and mounting twenty or

thirty cannons. {93} Another object of interest was the mandarins'

boats, with their painted sides, doors, and windows, their carved

galleries, and pretty little silk flags, giving them the appearance

of the most charming houses; but what delighted me most was the

flower-boats, with their upper galleries ornamented with flowers,

garlands, and arabesques. A large apartment and a few cabinets,

into which the interior is divided, are reached through doors and

windows which have almost a Gothic appearance. Mirrors and silk

hangings adorn the walls, while glass chandeliers and coloured paper

lanterns, between which swing lovely little baskets with fresh

flowers, complete the magic scene.

These flower-boats are always stationary, and are frequented by the

Chinese as places of amusement, both by day and night. Plays are

acted here, and ballets and conjuring performed. Women, with the

exception of a certain class, do not frequent these places;

Europeans are not exactly prevented from entering them, but are

exposed, especially in the present unfavourable state of public

opinion, to insult and even injury.

In addition to these extraordinary vessels, let the reader picture

to himself thousands of small boats (schampans), some at anchor,

some crossing and passing in all directions, with fishermen casting

their nets, and men and children amusing themselves by swimming, and

he will have some idea of the scene I witnessed. I often could not

avoid turning away with terror at seeing the little children playing

and rolling about upon the narrow boats, I expected every instant

that one or other of them would certainly fall overboard. Some

parents are cautious enough to fasten hollow gourds, or bladders

filled with air, on their children's backs, until they are six years

old, so as to prevent them sinking so quickly, if they should happen

to tumble into the water.

All these multifarious occupations--this ceaseless activity, this

never-ending bustle, form so peculiar a feature, that it is hardly

possible for a person who has not been an eye-witness to obtain a

correct idea of it.

It is only during the last few years that we European women have

been allowed to visit or remain in the factories at Canton. I left

the vessel without any apprehension; but first, I had to consider

how I should find my way to the house of a gentleman named Agassiz,

for whom I had brought letters of recommendation. I explained to

the captain, by signs, that I had no money with me, and that he must

act as my guide to the factory, where I would pay him. He soon

understood me, and conducted me to the place, and the Europeans

there showed me the particular house I wanted.

On seeing me arrive, and hearing the manner in which I had

travelled, and the way that I had walked from the vessel to his

house, Mr. Agassiz was extremely surprised, and would hardly credit

that I had met with no difficulties or injury. From him I learned

what risks I, as a woman, had run in traversing the streets of

Canton with no escort but a Chinese guide. Such a thing had never

occurred before, and Mr. Agassiz assured me that I might esteem

myself as exceedingly fortunate in not having been insulted by the

people in the grossest manner, or even stoned. Had this been the

case, he told me that my guide would have immediately taken to

flight, and abandoned me to my fate.

I had certainly remarked, on my way from the vessel to the factory,

that both old and young turned back to look after me, and that they

hooted and pointed at me with their fingers; the people ran out of

the booths, and gradually formed a crowd at my heels. I had,

however, no alternative but to preserve my countenance; I walked,

therefore, calmly on, and perhaps it is to the very fact of my

manifesting no fear that I escaped unmolested.

I had not intended to stop long in Canton, as, since the last war

between the English and Chinese, Europeans are obliged to be more

careful than ever how they show themselves in public. This hatred

is more especially directed against women, as it is declared in one

of the Chinese prophecies that a woman will some day or other

conquer the Celestial Empire. On account of this, I entertained but

slight hopes of seeing anything here, and thought of proceeding

directly to the port of Shanghai, in the north of China, where, as I

was informed, it was far easier to obtain access both among the

nobility and lower classes. Fortunately, however, I made the

acquaintance of a German gentleman, Herr von Carlowitz, who had been

settled for some time in Canton. He offered, in the kindest manner,

to act as my Mentor, on condition that I should arm myself with

patience until the mail from Europe, which was expected in a few

days, had come in. {95} At such times the merchants are so busy and

excited, that they have no leisure to think of anything but their

correspondence. I was, therefore, obliged to wait, not only until

the steamer had arrived, but until it had left again, which it did

not do until a week had elapsed. I have to thank Mr. Agassiz that

the time did not hang heavily upon my hands; I was most kindly and

hospitably entertained, and enjoyed the opportunity of noting the

mode of life of those Europeans who have settled in the country.

Very few take their families with them to China, and least of all to

Canton, where both women and children are closely imprisoned in

their houses, which they can only leave in a well-closed litter.

Besides this, everything is so dear, that living in London is cheap

in comparison. Lodgings of six rooms, with a kitchen, cost about

700 or 800 dollars a-year (140 or 160 pounds). A man-servant

receives from four to eight dollars a-month, and female servants

nine or ten dollars, as Chinese women will not wait upon a European

unless greatly overpaid. In addition to all this, there is a custom

prevalent here, of having a separate person for each branch of

household duty, which renders a large number of servants

indispensable.

A family of only four persons requires at least eleven or twelve

domestics, if not more. In the first place, every member of the

family must have an attendant especially for his or her use; then

there is a man-cook, a number of nursery-maids, and several coolies

for the more menial duties, such as cleaning the rooms, carrying the

wood and water, and so forth. In spite of this number of servants,

the attendance is frequently very bad; for, if one or other of them

happens to be out, and his services are required, his master must

wait until he returns, as no servant could ever be prevailed upon to

do another's duty.

At the head of the whole household is the comprador, who is a kind

of major-domo. To his care are confided all the plate, furniture,

linen, and other effects; he engages all the servants, provides for

their board, and anything else they may require, and answers for

their good conduct, deducting, however, two dollars a-month from the

wages of each, in return for his services. He makes all the

purchases, and settles all the bills, giving in the sum total at the

end of the month, without descending into the items.

Besides these domestic duties, the comprador is also entrusted with

the money belonging to his master's firm; hundreds of thousands of

dollars pass through his hands, and he is responsible for the

genuineness of every one. He has persons in his own employment who

pay and receive all monies, and who examine and test every separate

coin with the most marvellous rapidity. They take a whole handful

of dollars at a time, and toss them up separately with the finger

and thumb: this enables them to determine whether each "rings"

properly, and on the coin falling into their hand again, reversed,

they examine the second side with a glance. A few hours are

sufficient to pass several thousand dollars in review; and this

minute inspection is very necessary, on account of the number of

false dollars made by the Chinese. Each piece of money is then

stamped with the peculiar mark of the firm, as a guarantee of its

genuineness, so that it at last becomes exceedingly thin and broad,

and frequently falls to bits; no loss is, however, occasioned by

this, as the amount is always reckoned by weight. Besides dollars,

little bars of pure unstamped silver are used as a circulating

medium; small portions, varying in size, being cut off them,

according to the sum required. The counting-house is situated on

the ground floor, in the comprador's room. The Europeans have

nothing to do with the money, and, in fact, never even carry any for

their private use.

The comprador has no fixed salary, but receives a stated per-centage

upon all business transactions: his per-centage upon the household

expenses is not fixed, but is not on that account less certain. On

the whole, these compradors are very trustworthy. They pay down a

certain sum, as caution-money, to some mandarin, and the latter

answers for them.

The following is a tolerably correct account of the mode of life

pursued by the Europeans settled here. As soon as they are up, and

have drunk a cup of tea in their bed-room, they take a cold bath. A

little after 9 o'clock, they breakfast upon fried fish or cutlets,

cold roast meat, boiled eggs, tea, and bread and butter. Every one

then proceeds to his business until dinner-time, which is generally

4 o'clock. The dinner is composed of turtle-soup, curry, roast

meat, hashes, and pastry. All the dishes, with the exception of the

curry, are prepared after the English fashion, although the cooks

are Chinese. For dessert there is cheese, with fruit; such as pine-

apples, long-yen, mangoes, and lytchi. The Chinese affirm that the

latter is the finest fruit in the whole world. It is about the size

of a nut, with a brown verrucous outside; the edible part is white

and tender, and the kernel black. Long-yen is somewhat smaller, but

is also white and tender, though the taste is rather watery.

Neither of these fruits struck me as very good. I do not think the

pine-apples are so sweet, or possessed of that aromatic fragrance

which distinguishes those raised in our European greenhouses,

although they are much larger.

Portuguese wines and English beer are the usual drinks--ice, broken

into small pieces, and covered up with a cloth, is offered with

each. The ice is rather a costly article, as it has to be brought

from North America. In the evening, tea is served up.

During meal-times, a large punkah is employed to diffuse an

agreeable degree of coolness through the apartment. The punkah is a

large frame, from eight to ten feet long, and three feet high,

covered with white Indian cloth, and fastened to the ceiling. A

rope communicates, through the wall, like a bell-pull, with the next

room, or the ground floor, where a servant is stationed to keep it

constantly in motion, and thus maintain a pleasing draught.

As may be seen from what I have said, the living here is very dear

for Europeans. The expense of keeping a house may be reckoned at

30,000 francs (6,000 dollars--1,200 pounds) at the lowest; a very

considerable sum, when we reflect how little it procures, neither

including a carriage nor horses. There is nothing in the way of

amusement, or places of public recreation; the only pleasure many

gentlemen indulge in, is keeping a boat, for which they pay 28s. a-

month, or they walk in the evenings in a small garden, which the

European inhabitants have laid out at their own cost. This garden

faces the factory, surrounded on three sides by a wall, and, on the

fourth, washed by the Pearl stream.

The living of the Chinese population, on the contrary, costs very

little; 60 cash, 1,200 of which make a dollar (4s.), may be reckoned

a very liberal daily allowance for each man. As a natural

consequence, wages are extremely low; a boat, for instance, may be

hired for half a dollar (2s.) a-day, and on this income, a whole

family of from six to eight persons will often exist. It is true,

the Chinese are not too particular in their food; they eat dogs,

cats, mice, and rats, the intestines of birds, and the blood of

every animal, and I was even assured that caterpillars and worms

formed part of their diet. Their principal dish, however, is rice,

which is not only employed by them in the composition of their

various dishes, but supplies the place of bread. It is exceedingly

cheap; the pekul, which is equal to 124 lbs. English avoirdupois,

costing from one dollar and three-quarters to two dollars and a

half.

The costume of both sexes, among the lower orders, consists of broad

trousers and long upper garments, and is remarkable for its

excessive filth. The Chinaman is an enemy of baths and washing; he

wears no shirt, and does not discard his trousers until they

actually fall off his body. The men's upper garments reach a little

below the knee, and the women's somewhat lower. They are made of

nankeen, or dark blue, brown, or black silk. During the cold

season, both men and women wear one summer-garment over the other,

and keep the whole together with a girdle; during the great heat,

however, they allow their garments to flutter unconstrained about

their body.

All the men have their heads shaved, with the exception of a small

patch at the back, the hair on which is carefully cultivated and

plaited into a cue. The thicker and longer this cue is, the prouder

is its owner; false hair and black ribbon are consequently worked up

in it, so that it often reaches down to the ankles. During work, it

is twisted round the neck, but, on the owner's entering a room, it

is let down again, as it would be against all the laws of etiquette

and politeness for a person to make his appearance with his cue

twisted up. The women wear all their hair, which they comb entirely

back off their forehead, and fasten it in most artistic plaits to

the head; they spend a great deal of time in the process, but when

their hair is once dressed, it does not require to be touched for a

whole week. Both men and women sometimes go about with no covering

at all on their head; sometimes they wear hats made of thin bamboo,

and very frequently three feet in diameter; these keep off both sun

and rain, and are exceedingly durable.

On their feet they wear sewed stockings and shoes, formed of black

silk, or some material like worsted; the soles, which are more than

an inch thick, are made up of layers of strong pasteboard or felt

pasted together. The poor people go barefooted.

The houses of the lower classes are miserable hovels, built of wood

or brick. The internal arrangements are very wretched: the whole

furniture consists of a worthless table, a few chairs, and two or

three bamboo-mats, stools for the head, and old counterpanes; yet,

with this poverty, there are always sure to be some pots of flowers.

The cheapest mode of living is on board a boat. The husband goes on

shore to his work, and leaves his wife to make a trifle by ferrying

persons over, or letting out the boat to pleasure parties. One half

the boat belongs to the family themselves, and the other half to the

persons to whom they let it; and although there is not much room,

the whole boat measuring scarcely twenty-five feet in length, the

greatest order and cleanliness is everywhere apparent, as each

single plank on board is thoroughly scrubbed and washed every

morning. Great ingenuity is displayed in turning every inch of

space on board these small craft to advantage, and the dexterity is

actually pushed so far as to find room for a tiny domestic altar.

During the day all the cookery and washing is done, and though at

the latter process there is no want of little children, the

temporary tenant of the boat does not suffer the least annoyance;

nothing offensive meets his eye; and, at the most, he merely hears

at rare intervals the whining voice of some poor little wretch. The

youngest child is generally tied on its mother's back while she

steers; the elder children, too, have sometimes similar burdens, but

jump and climb about without the least consideration for them. It

has often grieved me to the heart to see the head of an infant

scarcely born, thrown from one side to the other with each movement

of the child that was carrying it, or the sun darting so fiercely on

the poor little creature, who was completely exposed to its rays,

that it could hardly open its eyes. For those who have not been

themselves witnesses of the fact, it is almost impossible to form an

idea of the indigence and poverty of a Chinese boat-family.

The Chinese are accused of killing numbers of their new-born or

weakly children. They are said to suffocate them immediately after

their birth, and then throw them into the river, or expose them in

the streets--by far the most horrible proceeding of the two, on

account of the number of swine and houseless dogs, who fall upon,

and voraciously devour, their prey. The most frequent victims are

the female infants, as parents esteem themselves fortunate in

possessing a large number of male children, the latter being bound

to support them in their old age; the eldest son, in fact, should

the father die, is obliged to take his place, and provide for his

brothers and sisters, who, on their part, are bound to yield

implicit obedience, and show him the greatest respect. These laws

are very strictly observed, and any one infringing them is punished

with death.

The Chinese consider it a great honour to be a grandfather, and

every man who is fortunate enough to be one wears a moustache, as

the distinctive sign of his good luck. These thin grey moustaches

are the more conspicuous, as the young men not only wear none, but,

as a general rule, grow no beard at all.

With regard to the social manners and customs of the Chinese, I am

only able to mention a few, as it is exceedingly difficult, and, in

fact, almost impossible, for a foreigner to become acquainted with

them. I endeavoured to see as much as I could, and mixed on every

possible opportunity among the people, afterwards writing down a

true account of what I had seen.

On going out one morning, I met more than fifteen prisoners, all

with a wooden yoke (can-gue) about their necks, being led through

the streets. This yoke is composed of two large pieces of wood,

fitting into one another, and having from one to three holes in

them; through these holes the head, and one or both hands, are

stuck, in proportion to the importance of the offence. A yoke of

this description varies in weight from fifty to a hundred pounds,

and presses so heavily upon the neck and shoulders of the poor

wretch who bears it, that he is unable to convey his victuals to his

mouth himself, and is compelled to wait till some compassionate soul

feeds him. This punishment lasts from a few days to several months;

in the latter case the prisoner generally dies.

Another description of punishment is the bastinado with the bamboo,

which, when applied to the more tender parts of the body, very

often, as early as the fifteenth blow, frees its victim for ever

from all his earthly sufferings. Other more severe punishments,

which in no way yield the palm to those of the Holy Inquisition,

consist in flaying the prisoner alive, crushing his limbs, cutting

the sinews out of his feet, and so on. Their modes of carrying out

the sentence of death appear to be mild in comparison, and are

generally confined to strangling and decapitation, although, as I

was informed, in certain extraordinary cases, the prisoner is

executed by being sawed in two, or left to die of starvation. In

the first case, the unhappy victim is made fast between two planks,

and sawed in two longitudinally, beginning with the head; and, in

the second, he is either buried up to his head in the ground, and

thus left to perish of want, or else is fastened in one of the

wooden yokes I have described, while his food is gradually reduced

in quantity every day, until at last it consists of only a few

grains of rice. In spite of the horrible and cruel nature of these

punishments, it is said that individuals are found ready, for a sum

of money, to undergo them all, death even included, instead of the

person condemned.

In the year 1846, 4,000 people were beheaded at Canton. It is true

that they were the criminals of two provinces, which together

numbered a population of 9,000,000 souls, but the number is still

horrible to contemplate. Is it possible that there could really be

so many who should be looked upon as criminals--or are persons

sentenced to death for a mere nothing--or are both these

suppositions true?

I once happened to go near the place of execution, and to my horror

beheld a long row of still bleeding heads exposed upon high poles.

The relations enjoy the privilege of carrying away and interring the

bodies.

There are several different religions in China, the most prevalent

being Buddhism. It is marked by great superstition and idolatry,

and is mostly confined to the lower classes. The most natural is

that of the wise Confucius, which is said to be the religion of the

court, the public functionaries, the scholars, and educated classes.

The population of China is composed of a great many very different

races: unfortunately, I am unable to describe their several

characteristics, as my stay in China was far too short. The people

I saw in Canton, Hong-Kong, and Macao, are of middling stature.

Their complexion varies with their occupation: the peasants and

labourers are rather sun-burnt; rich people and ladies white. Their

faces are flat, broad, and ugly; their eyes are narrow, rather

obliquely placed, and far apart; their noses broad, and their mouth

large. Their fingers I observed were in many cases extremely long

and thin; only the rich (of both sexes) allow their nails to grow to

an extraordinary length, as a proof that they are not obliged, like

their poorer brethren, to gain their livelihood by manual labour.

These aristocratic nails are generally half an inch long, though I

saw one man whose nails were quite an inch in length, but only on

his left hand. With this hand it was impossible for him to raise

any flat object, except by laying his hand flat upon it, and

catching hold of it between his fingers.

The women of the higher classes are generally inclined to

corpulency, a quality which is highly esteemed not in women alone,

but in men as well.

Although I had heard a great deal about the small feet of Chinese

women, I was greatly astonished at their appearance. Through the

kind assistance of a missionary's lady (Mrs. Balt) I was enabled to

behold one of these small feet in natura. Four of the toes were

bent under the sole of the foot, to which they were firmly pressed,

and with which they appeared to be grown together; the great toe was

alone left in its normal state. The fore-part of the foot had been

so compressed with strong broad bandages, that instead of expanding

in length and breadth, it had shot upwards and formed a large lump

at the instep, where it made part and parcel of the leg; the lower

portion of the foot was scarcely four inches long, and an inch and a

half broad. The feet are always swathed in white linen or silk,

bound round with silk bandages and stuffed into pretty little shoes,

with very high heels.

To my astonishment these deformed beings tripped about, as if in

defiance of us broad-footed creatures, with tolerable ease, the only

difference in their gait being that they waddled like geese; they

even ran up and down stairs without the aid of a stick.

The only persons exempted from this Chinese method of improving

their beauty are girls of the lowest class--that is, those who live

in boats; in families of rank they are all subject to the same fate;

while in those of the middle classes, as a general rule, it is

limited to the eldest daughter.

The worth of a bride is reckoned by the smallness of her feet.

This process of mutilation is not commenced immediately the child is

born, but is deferred until the end of the first, or sometimes even

third year, nor is the foot after the operation forced into an iron

shoe, as many have affirmed, but merely firmly compressed with

bandages.

The religion of the Chinese allows them to have a number of wives,

but in this respect they are far behind the Mahomedans. The richest

have rarely more than from six to twelve, while poor persons content

themselves with one.

I visited during my stay in Canton as many workshops of the

different artists as I could. My first visit was to the most

celebrated painters, and I must frankly own, that the vividness and

splendour of their colouring struck me exceedingly. These qualities

are generally ascribed to the rice paper on which they paint, and

which is of the greatest possible fineness, and as white as milk.

The paintings upon linen and ivory differ very little, as far as the

colouring is concerned, from those of our European artists, and the

difference is therefore the more visible in their composition, and

perspective, which, with the Chinese, are yet in a state of infancy.

This is more especially true of perspective. The figures and

objects in the back-ground rival in size and brilliancy those in

front, while rivers or seas float in the place which should be

occupied by clouds. On the other hand, the native artists can copy

admirably, {101} and even take likenesses. I saw some portraits so

strikingly well drawn, and admirably coloured, that first-rate

European artists need not have been ashamed to own them.

The Chinese possess marvellous skill in carving ivory,

tortoiseshell, and wood. Among the superior black lacquered

articles, especially with flat or raised gold ornaments, I observed

some, which were worthy of a place in the most valuable collections

of objects of vertu. I saw some small work-tables worth at least

600 dollars (120 pounds). The baskets and carpets, made from the

bamboo, are also remarkably beautiful.

They are, however, far behind-hand in gold or silver work, which is

generally heavy and tasteless; but then again, they have attained

great celebrity by their porcelain, which is remarkable not only for

its size, but for its transparency. It is true that vases and other

vessels four feet high are neither light nor transparent; but cups

and other small objects can only be compared to glass for fineness

and transparency. The colours on them are very vivid, but the

drawings very stiff and bad.

In the manufacture of silks and crape shawls, the Chinese are

unsurpassable; the latter especially, in beauty, tastefulness, and

thickness, are far preferable to those made in England or France.

The knowledge of music, on the other hand, is so little developed,

that our good friends of the Celestial Empire might almost, in this

respect, be compared to savages--not that they have no instruments,

but they do not know how to use them. They possess violins,

guitars, lutes (all with strings or wires), dulcimers, wind

instruments, ordinary and kettle-drums, and cymbals, but are neither

skilled in composition, melody, nor execution. They scratch,

scrape, and thump upon their instruments in such a manner, as to

produce the finest marrowbone-and-cleaver kind of music imaginable.

During my excursions up and down the Pearl stream, I had frequent

opportunities of hearing artistic performances of this description

on board the mandarin and flower-boats.

In all kinds of deception the Chinese are great adepts, and

decidedly more than a match for any Europeans. They have not the

slightest sense of honour, and if you detect them, content

themselves with saying: "You are more clever or cunning than I." I

was told that when they have any live stock, such as calves or pigs,

for sale, they compel them, as they are disposed of by weight, to

swallow stones or large quantities of water. They also know how to

blow out and dress stale poultry, so as to make it look quite fresh

and plump.

But it is not the lower classes alone that indulge in cheating and

fraud; these agreeable qualities are shared by the highest

functionaries. It is a well-known fact, for instance, that there

are nowhere so many pirates as in the Chinese sea, especially in the

vicinity of Canton; yet no measures are taken to punish or extirpate

them, simply because the mandarins do not think it beneath their

dignity to secretly share in the profits.

For example, though the opium trade is forbidden, so much of this

drug is smuggled in every year, that it is said to exceed in value

that of all the tea exported in the same period. {102a} The

merchants enter into a private understanding with the officers and

mandarins, agreeing to give them a certain sum for every pikul, and

it is no rare occurrence for a mandarin to land whole cargoes under

the protection of his own flag.

In like manner there is said to be on one of the islands near Hong-

Kong a very extensive manufactory of false money, which is allowed

to be carried on without any interruption, as it pays a tribute to

the public functionaries and mandarins. A short time ago, a number

of pirate vessels that had ventured too near Canton, were shot into

and sunk, the crews lost, and their leader taken. The owners of the

vessels petitioned the government to set the prisoners free, and

threatened, in case of a refusal, to make extensive disclosures.

Every one was convinced that a sum of money accompanied this

threatening letter, for shortly after it was reported that the

prisoner had escaped.

I myself was witness of a circumstance in Canton, which caused me

great uneasiness, and was a pretty good proof of the helplessness or

apathy of the Chinese government.

On the 8th of August, Mr. Agassiz set out with a friend, intending

to return the same evening. I was left at home alone with the

Chinese servants. Mr. Agassiz did not return at the appointed time.

At last, about 1 o'clock the next morning, I suddenly heard voices

in loud conversation, and a violent knocking at the street door. I

at first supposed it to be Mr. Agassiz, and felt much surprise at

the late hour of his arrival, but I soon perceived that the

disturbance was not in our house, but in that on the opposite side

of the way. It is easy to fall into an error of this description,

as the houses are situated quite close to each other, and windows

are left open day and night. I heard voices exclaim, "Get up,--

dress!" and then, "It is horrible--shocking--good heavens?--where

did it happen?"--I sprang quickly out of bed and huddled on my gown,

thinking either that a fire had broken out in some house or other,

or that the people had risen in insurrection. {102b}

Seeing a gentleman at one of the windows, I called and inquired of

him what was the matter. He told me hurriedly that intelligence had

just arrived that two of his friends who were proceeding to Hong-

Kong (Whampoa lay on the road) had been attacked by pirates, and

that one was killed and the other wounded. He then immediately

retired, so that I was unable to learn the name of the unfortunate

victim, and was left all night a prey to the greatest anxiety lest

it should be Mr. Agassiz.

Fortunately, this at least was not the case, as Mr. Agassiz returned

at 5 o'clock in the morning. I then learned that this misfortune

had happened to Monsieur Vauchee, a Swiss gentleman, who had passed

many an evening in our house. On the very day of his departure, I

met him at a neighbour's, where we had all been in the highest

spirits, singing songs and quartettes. At 9 o'clock he went on

board the boat, set off at 10, and a quarter of an hour afterwards,

in the midst of thousands of schampans and other craft, met his

tragical end.

Monsieur Vauchee had intended to proceed to Hong-Kong, and there

embark on board a larger vessel for Shanghai; {103} he took with him

Swiss watches to the value of 40,000 francs (1,600 pounds), and, in

speaking to a friend, congratulated himself on the cautious manner

he had packed them up, without letting his servants know anything

about it. This, however, could not have been the case: and, as the

pirates have spies among the servants in every house, they were

unfortunately but too well acquainted with the circumstance.

During my stay in Canton, the house of a European was pulled down by

the populace, because it stood upon a piece of ground which, though

Europeans were allowed to occupy, they had not hitherto built upon.

In this manner there was hardly a day that we did not hear of acts

of violence and mischief, so that we were in a continual state of

apprehension, more especially as the report of the near approach of

a revolution, in which all the Europeans were to perish, was

everywhere bruited about. Many of the merchants had made every

preparation for instant flight, and muskets, pistols, and swords

were neatly arranged ready for use in most of the counting-houses.

Luckily, the time fixed for the revolution passed over, without the

populace fulfilling its threats.

The Chinese are cowardly in the highest degree; they talk very large

when they are certain they have nothing to fear. For instance, they

are always ready to stone, or even kill, a few defenceless

individuals, but if they have to fear any opposition, they are sure

not to commence the attack. I believe that a dozen good European

soldiers would put to flight more than a hundred Chinese. I myself

never met with a more dastardly, false, and, at the same time, cruel

race, in my life; one proof of this is, that their greatest pleasure

consists in torturing animals.

In spite of the unfavourable disposition of the populace, I ventured

out a good deal. Herr von Carlowitz was untiring in his kindness to

me, and accompanied me everywhere, exposing himself to many dangers

on my account, and bearing patiently the insults of the populace,

who followed at our heels, and loudly expressed their indignation at

the boldness of the European woman in thus appearing in public.

Through his assistance, I saw more than any woman ever yet saw in

China.

Our first excursion was to the celebrated Temple of Honan, which is

said to be one of the finest in China.

This temple is surrounded by numerous out-buildings, and a large

garden enclosed with a high wall. You first enter a large fore-

court, at the extremity of which a colossal gateway leads into the

inner courts. Under the archway of this portico are two War Gods,

each eighteen feet high, in menacing attitudes, and with horribly

distorted features. They are placed there to prevent evil spirits

from entering. A second similar portico, under which are the four

Celestial Kings, leads into the inmost court, where the principal

temple is situated. The interior of the temple is 100 feet in

length, and 100 feet in breadth. The flat roof, from which hang a

number of glass chandeliers, lamps, artificial flowers, and silk

ribbons, is supported upon several rows of wooden pillars, while the

multitude of statues, altars, flower-pots, censers, candelabra,

candlesticks, and other ornaments, involuntarily suggest to the mind

of the spectator the decoration of a Roman Catholic church.

In the foreground are three altars, and behind these three statues,

representing the God Buddha in three different aspects: the past,

the present, and the future. These figures, which are in a sitting

posture, are of colossal dimensions.

We happened to visit the temple just as service was being performed.

It was a kind of mass for the dead, which a mandarin had ordered for

his deceased wife. At the right and left altars were the priests,

whose garments and gesticulations also resembled those of the Roman

Catholics. At the middle altar was the mandarin, piously engaged in

prayer, while two stood beside him, fanning him with large fans.

{104} He frequently kissed the ground, and every time he did so,

three wax tapers were presented to him, which he first elevated in

the air, and then gave to one of the priests, who placed them before

a statue of Buddha, but without lighting them. The music was

performed by three men, one of whom twanged a stringed instrument,

while the second struck a metal globe, and the third played the

flute.

Besides the principal temple there are various smaller ones, and

halls, all adorned with statues of gods. Especial honour is paid to

the twenty-four Gods of Pity, and to Kwanfootse, a demi-god of War.

Many of the former have four, six, and even eight arms. All these

divinities, Buddha himself not excepted, are made of wood, gilt

over, and painted with glazing colours.

In the Temple of Mercy we met with an adventure which was nearly

attended with unpleasant consequences. A priest, or bonze, handed

us some little tapers for us to light and offer to his divinity.

Herr von Carlowitz and myself had already got the tapers in our

hands, and were quite willing to afford him this gratification, when

an American missionary, who was with us, tore the tapers from our

grasp, and indignantly returned them to the priest, saying, that

what we were about to do was an act of idolatry. The priest took

the matter very seriously, and, instantly closing the doors, called

his companions, who hurried in from all sides, and abused us in the

most violent and vociferous fashion, pressing closer every instant.

It was with the greatest difficulty that we succeeded in fighting

our way to the door, and thus making our escape.

After this little fray, our guide conducted us to the dwelling of

the Holy--Pigs! {105} A beautiful stone hall is set apart for their

use, which hall these remarkable divinities fill, in spite of all

the care bestowed on them, with so horrible a stench, that it is

impossible to approach them without holding one's nose. They are

taken care of and fed until death summons them away. When we

visited the place there were only a pair of these fortunate beings,

and their number rarely exceeds three couples.

I was better pleased with the residence of a bonze, which adjoined

this holy spot. It consisted of a sitting-room and bed-room merely,

but was very comfortably and elegantly fitted up. The walls of the

sitting-room were ornamented with carved wood-work, and the

furniture was old-fashioned and pleasing: at the back of the

apartment, which was flagged, stood a small altar.

We here saw an opium-eater, lying stretched out upon a mat on the

floor. At his side was a cup of tea, with some fruit and a little

lamp, besides several pipes, with bowls that were smaller than a

thimble. On our entrance, he was just inhaling the intoxicating

smoke from one of them. It is said that some of the Chinese opium

smokers consume from twenty to thirty grains a-day. As he was not

altogether unconscious of our presence, he managed to raise himself,

laid by his pipe, and dragged himself to a chair. His eyes were

fixed and staring, and his face deadly pale, presenting altogether a

most pitiable and wretched spectacle.

Last of all, we were conducted to the garden, where the bonzes, at

their death, are burnt--a particular mark of distinction, as all

other people are interred. A simple mausoleum, about thirty feet

square, and a few small private monuments, were all that was to be

seen. None of them had any pretensions to elegance, being built of

the simplest masonry. In the former of these edifices are preserved

the bones of the persons who have been burnt, and among them are

also buried the rich Chinese, whose heirs pay pretty handsomely to

obtain such an honour for them. At a little distance stands a small

tower, eight feet in diameter and eighteen in height, with a small

pit, where a fire can be kindled, in the floor. Over this pit is an

armchair, to which the deceased bonze is fastened in full costume.

Logs and dry brushwood are disposed all round, and the whole is set

fire to, and the doors closed. In an hour they are again opened,

the ashes strewed around the tower, and the bones preserved until

the period for opening the mausoleum, which is only once every year.

A striking feature in the garden is this beautiful water-rose, or

lotus-flower (nymphaea nelumbo), which was originally a native of

China. The Chinese admire this flower so much, that they have ponds

dug in their gardens expressly for it. It is about six inches in

diameter, and generally white--very rarely pale red. The seeds

resemble in size and taste those of the hazel; and the roots, when

cooked, are said to taste like artichokes.

There are more than a hundred bonzes who reside in the temple of

Honan. In their ordinary dress, they differ nothing from the common

Chinamen, the only means of recognising them being by their heads,

which are _entirely_ shaved. Neither these nor any other priests

can boast, as I was told, of being in the least respected by the

people.

Our second excursion was to the Half-way Pagoda, so called by the

English from its lying half way between Canton and Whampoa. We went

up the Pearl stream to it. It stands upon a small eminence near a

village, in the midst of immense fields of rice, and is composed of

nine stories, 170 feet high. Its circumference is not very

considerable, but nearly the same all the way up, which gives it the

look of a tower. I was informed that this pagoda was formerly one

of the most celebrated in China, but it has long ceased to be used.

The interior was completely empty; there were neither statues nor

any other ornaments; nor were there any floors to prevent the eye

from seeing to the very top. On the outside, small balconies

without railings surround each story, to which access is gained by

steep and narrow flights of stairs. These projecting balconies

produce a very fine effect, being built of coloured bricks, very

artistically laid, and faced with variegated tiles. The bricks are

placed in rows, with their points jutting obliquely outwards, so

that the points project about four inches over one another. At a

distance, the work seems as if it were half pierced through, and

from the beautiful colours and fineness of the tiles, a person might

easily mistake the entire mass for porcelain.

While we were viewing the pagoda, the whole population of the

village had assembled round about us, and as they behaved with

tolerable quietness, we determined on paying a visit to the village

itself. The houses, or rather huts, were small and built of brick,

and with the exception of their flat roofs, presented nothing

peculiar. The rooms did not possess a ceiling of their own, but

were simply covered by the roof; the floor was formed of earth

closely pressed together, and the internal walls consisted partly of

bamboo-mats. What little furniture there was, was exceedingly

dirty. About the middle of the village was a small temple, with a

few lamps burning dimly before the principal divinity.

What struck me most was the quantity of poultry, both in and out of

the huts, and we had to take the greatest care to avoid treading on

some of the young brood. The chickens are hatched, as they are in

Egypt, by artificial heat.

On our return from the village to the pagoda, we saw two schampans

run in shore, and a number of swarthy, half-naked, and mostly armed

men jump out, and hasten through the fields of rice directly to

where we were. We set them down as pirates, and awaited the upshot

with a considerable degree of uneasiness. We knew that, if we were

right in our supposition, we were lost without hope; for, at the

distance we were from Canton, and entirely surrounded by Chinese,

who would have been but too ready to lend them assistance, it would

have been doubly easy for pirates to dispatch us. All idea of

escape or rescue was out of the question.

While these thoughts were flashing across our minds, the men kept

approaching us, and at length their leader introduced himself as the

captain of a Siamese man-of-war. He informed us, in broken English,

that he had not long arrived with the Governor of Bangkok, who was

proceeding for the rest of the way to Pekin by land. Our fears were

gradually dispelled, and we even accepted the friendly invitation of

the captain to run alongside his ship and view it, on our return.

He came in the boat with us, and took us on board, where he showed

us everything himself: the sight, however, was not a particularly

attractive one. The crew looked very rough and wild; they were all

dressed in a most slovenly and dirty manner, so that it was utterly

impossible to distinguish the officers from the common men. The

vessel mounted twelve guns and sixty-eight hands.

The captain set before us Portuguese wine and English beer, and the

evening was far advanced before we reached home.

The longest trip that can be made from Canton is one twenty miles up

the Pearl stream, and Mr. Agassiz was kind enough to procure me this

pleasure. He hired a good boat, which he furnished abundantly with

eatables and drinkables, and invited a missionary, who had made the

trip several times, Herr von Carlowitz, and myself. The company of

a missionary is as yet by far the safest escort in China. These

gentlemen speak the language; they become gradually acquainted with

the people, and travel about, with hardly any obstacle to speak of,

all round the vicinity of Canton.

About a week before we had decided on going, a few young gentlemen

had endeavoured to make the same excursion, but had been fired upon

from one of the fortresses that lie on the banks of the river, and

compelled to turn back half-way. When we approached the fortress in

question, the crew of our boat refused to proceed any further, until

we had almost employed violence to make them do so. We also were

fired into, but fortunately not until we were more than half past

the fortress. Having escaped the danger, we pursued our course

without further interruption, landed at several hamlets, visited the

so-called Herren Pagoda, and took a good view of everything that was

to be seen. The scenery all round was charming, and displayed to

our view large plains with rice, sugar, and tea-plantations,

picturesque clumps of trees, lovely hills, and more elevated

mountain ranges rising in the distance. On the declivities of the

hills, we beheld a number of graves, which were marked by single,

upright stones.

The Herren Pagoda has three stories, with a pointed roof, and is

distinguished for its external sculpture. It has no balconies

outside, but, instead of this, a triple wreath of leaves round each

story. In the first and second story, to which access is gained by

more than usually narrow stairs, are some small altars with carved

idols. We were not allowed to go into the third story, under the

excuse that there was nothing to be seen there.

The villages we visited, resembled more or less, that we had seen

near the Half-way Pagoda.

During this journey I was an eye-witness of the manner in which the

missionaries dispose of their religious tracts. The missionary who

had been kind enough to accompany us, took this opportunity of

distributing among the natives some seeds that should bring forth

good fruit. He had 500 tracts on board our boat, and every time

that another boat approached us, a circumstance that was of frequent

occurrence, he stretched himself as far as possible over the side

with half a dozen tracts in his hand, and made signs to the people

to approach and take them. If people did not obey his summons, we

rowed up to them, and the missionary gratified them with his tracts

in dozens, and went his way rejoicing, in anticipation of the good

which he did not doubt they would effect.

Whenever we arrived at a village, however, matters reached even a

higher pitch. The servant was obliged to carry whole packs of

tracts, which in a moment were distributed among the crowd of

curious who had quickly gathered round us.

Every one took what was offered to him, as it cost nothing, and if

he could not read it--the tracts were in Chinese--he had at least

got so much paper. The missionary returned home delighted; he had

disposed of his 500 copies. What glorious news for the Missionary

Society, and what a brilliant article for his religious paper, he no

doubt transmitted to Europe!

Six young Englishmen made this same excursion up the Pearl stream

six months later, stopping at one of the villages and mixing with

the people. Unhappily, however, they all fell victims to the

fanaticism of the Chinese: they were most barbarously murdered.

There was now no trip of any distance left but one round the walls

of the town of Canton, {108} properly so called. This, too, I was

shortly enabled to undertake through the kindness of our good friend

the missionary, who offered to come as guide to Herr von Carlowitz

and myself, under the condition, however, that I should put on male

attire. No woman had ever yet ventured to make this trip, and he

thought that I ought not to venture in my own dress; I complied with

his wish, therefore, and one fine morning early we set out.

For some distance our road lay through narrow streets or alleys

paved with large flags. In a small niche somewhere in the front of

every house, we saw little altars from one to three feet high,

before which, as it was yet early, the night lamps were still

burning. An immense quantity of oil is unnecessarily consumed in

keeping up this religious custom. The shops now began to be opened.

They resemble neat entrance halls, having no front wall. The goods

were exposed for sale either in large open boxes or on tables,

behind which the shopkeepers sit and work. In one corner of the

shop, a narrow staircase leads up into the dwelling-house above.

Here, as in Turkish towns, the same regulation is observed of each

trade or calling having its especial street, so that in one nothing

but crockery and glass, in another silks, and so on, is to be seen.

In the physician's street are situated all the apothecaries' shops

as well, as the two professions are united in one and the same

person. The provisions, which are very tastily arranged, have also

their separate streets. Between the houses are frequently small

temples, not differing the least, however, in style from the

surrounding buildings: the gods, too, merely occupy the ground

floor, the upper stories being inhabited by simple mortals.

The bustle in the streets was astonishing, especially in those set

apart for the sale of provisions. Women and girls of the lower

classes went about making their purchases, just as in Europe. They

were all unveiled, and some of them waddled like geese, in

consequence of their crippled feet, which, as I before observed,

extends to all ranks. The crowd was considerably increased by the

number of porters, with large baskets of provisions on their

shoulders, running along, and praising in a loud voice their stock

in trade, or warning the people to make way for them. At other

times, the whole breadth of the street would be taken up, and the

busy stream of human beings completely stopped by the litter of some

rich or noble personage proceeding to his place of business. But

worse than all were the numerous porters we met at every step we

took, carrying large baskets of unsavoury matter.

It is a well known fact, that there is perhaps no nation on the face

of the earth equal to the Chinese in diligence and industry, or that

profits by, and cultivates, as they do, every available inch of

ground. As, however, they have not much cattle, and consequently

but little manure, they endeavour to supply the want of it by other

means, and hence their great care of anything that can serve as a

substitute.

All their small streets are built against the city walls, so that we

had been going round them for some time before we were aware of the

fact. Mean-looking gates or wickets, which all foreigners are

strictly prohibited from passing, and which are shut in the evening,

lead into the interior of the town.

I was told that it has often happened for sailors, or other

strangers, during their walks, to penetrate through one of these

entrances into the interior of the town, and not discover their

mistake until the stones began flying about their ears.

After threading our way for at least two miles through a succession

of narrow streets, we at length emerged into the open space, where

we obtained a full view of the city walls, and from the summit of a

small hill which was situated near them, a tolerably extensive one

over the town itself. The city walls are about sixty feet high,

and, for the most part, so overgrown with grass, creeping plants,

and underwood, that they resemble a magnificent mass of living

vegetation. The town resembles a chaos of small houses, with now

and then a solitary tree, but we saw neither fine streets nor

squares, nor any remarkable buildings, temples, or pagodas. A

single pagoda, five stories high, reminded us of the peculiar

character of Chinese architecture.

Our road now lay over fertile eminences, varied with fields and

meadows in a high state of cultivation. Many of the hills are used

as cemeteries, and are dotted over with small mounds of earth,

walled in with stone flags, or rough hewn stones two feet high,

frequently covered with inscriptions. Family tombs were also to be

seen, dug in the hill, and enclosed with stone walls of the shape of

a horse-shoe. All the entrances were built up with stone.

The Chinese do not, however, bury all their dead: they have a

remarkable way of preserving them in small stone chambers,

consisting of two stone walls and a roof, while the two other sides

are left open. In these places, there are never more than from two

to four coffins, which are placed upon wooden benches two feet high:

the coffins themselves consist of massive trunks of trees hollowed

out.

The villages through which we passed presented an animated

appearance, but appeared poor and dirty. We were often obliged to

hold our noses in passing through the lanes and squares, and very

frequently would fain have closed our eyes as well, to avoid the

disgusting sight of people covered with eruptions of the skin,

tumours, and boils.

In all the villages I saw poultry and swine in great numbers, but

not more than three horses and a buffalo-cow; both the horses and

the cow were of an extremely small breed.

When we had nearly reached the end of our excursion, we met a

funeral. A horrible kind of music gave us warning that something

extraordinary was approaching, and we had hardly time to look up and

step on one side, before the procession came flying past us at full

speed. First came the worthy musicians, followed by a few Chinese,

next two empty litters carried by porters, and then the hollow trunk

of a tree, representing the coffin, hanging to a long pole, and

carried in a similar manner: last of all, were some priests and a

crowd of people.

The chief priest wore a kind of white {110} fool's cap, with three

points; the other persons, who consisted of men alone, had a kind of

white cloth bound round their head or arm.

I was lucky enough to be enabled to visit some of the summer palaces

and gardens of the nobility.

The finest of all was certainly that belonging to the Mandarin

Howqua. The house itself was tolerably spacious, one story high,

with very wide, splendid terraces. The windows looked into the

inner courts, and the roof was like those in European buildings,

only much flatter. The sloping roofs, with their multitude of

points and pinnacles, with their little bells and variegated tiles,

are only to be found in the temples and country-houses, but never in

the usual residences. At the entrance there were two painted gods:

these, according to the belief of the Chinese, keep off evil

spirits.

The front part of the house consisted of several reception rooms,

without front walls, and immediately adjoining them, on the ground

floor, elegant parterres; and on the first floor magnificent

terraces, which were also decorated with flowers, and afforded a

most splendid view over the animated scene on the river, the

enchanting scenery around, and the mass of houses in the villages

situated about the walls of Canton.

Neat little cabinets surrounded these rooms, from which they were

only separated by walls that in many cases were adorned with the

most artistic paintings, and through which the eye could easily

penetrate. The most remarkable of these walls were those composed

of bamboos, which were as delicate as a veil, and plentifully

ornamented with painted flowers, or beautifully written proverbs.

A numberless quantity of chairs and a great many sofas were ranged

along the walls, from which I inferred that the Chinese are as much

accustomed to large assemblages as ourselves. I observed some arm-

chairs most skilfully cut out of a single piece of wood; others with

seats of beautiful marble-slabs; and others again of fine coloured

tiles or porcelain. Among various objects of European furniture, we

saw some handsome mirrors, clocks, vases, and tables of Florentine

mosaic, or variegated marble. There was also a most extraordinary

collection of lamps and lanterns hanging from the ceilings, and

consisting of glass, transparent horn, and coloured gauze or paper,

ornamented with glass beads, fringe, and tassels. Nor was there any

scarcity of lamps on the walls, so that when the apartments are

entirely lighted up, they must present a fairy-like appearance.

As we had been fortunate enough to reach this house without being

stoned, we were emboldened to visit the Mandarin Howqua's large

pleasure-garden, situated on a branch of the Pearl stream, about

three-quarters of a mile from the house. We had, however, hardly

entered the branch of the river, before the crew wanted to turn

back, having observed a mandarin's junk, with all its flags hoisted,

a signal that the owner himself was on board. They were unwilling

to venture on conveying us Europeans past the vessel, for fear they

should be punished, or stoned to death, along with ourselves, by the

people. We obliged them to proceed, passed close by the junk, and

then landed, and continued our excursion on foot. A large crowd of

people soon collected in our rear, and began pushing the children up

against us, in order to excite our rage; but arming ourselves with

patience, we moved quietly on, and reached, without any accident,

the garden gates, which we instantly closed behind us.

The garden was in a perfect state of cultivation, but without the

least pretension to taste in its arrangement. On every side were

summer-houses, kiosks, and bridges, and all the paths and open spots

were lined with large and small flower-pots, in which were flowers

and dwarfed fruit-trees of every description.

The Chinese are certainly adepts in the art of diminishing the size

of, or rather crippling their trees, many of which very often

scarcely attain a height of three feet. These dwarf trees are very

prevalent in their gardens, and preferred to the most magnificent

and shady trees of a natural size. These lilliputian alleys can

hardly be considered in good taste, but it is most remarkable with

what a large quantity of beautiful fruit the tiny branches are

laden.

Besides these toys we also observed figures of all descriptions,

representing ships, birds, fish, pagodas, etc., cut out of foliage.

In the heads of the animals were stuck eggs, with a black star

painted on them to represent the eyes.

There was also no scarcity of rocks, both single and in groups,

ornamented with flower-pots, as well as little figures of men and

animals, which can be removed at pleasure, so as to form new

combinations, a kind of amusement of which the Chinese ladies are

said to be very fond. Another source of entertainment, no less

popular, as well among the ladies as the gentlemen, consists in

kite-flying, and they will sit for hours looking at their paper

monsters in the air. There is a large open spot set apart for this

purpose in the garden of every Chinese nobleman. We noticed an

abundance of running water and ponds, but we did not observe any

fountains.

As everything had passed off so well, Herr von Carlowitz proposed

that we should go and see the garden of the Mandarin Puntiqua, which

I was very anxious to do, as the mandarin had ordered a steam-boat

to be built there by a Chinese, who had resided thirteen years in

North America, where he had studied.

The vessel was so far advanced that it was to be launched in a few

weeks. The artist showed us his work with great satisfaction, and

was evidently very much pleased at the praise we bestowed upon him

for it. He attached great importance to his knowledge of the

English language, for when Herr von Carlowitz addressed him in

Chinese, he answered in English, and requested us to continue the

conversation in that idiom. The machinery struck us as not being

constructed with the usual degree of neatness for which the Chinese

are famous, and also appeared far too large for the small vessel for

which it was intended. Neither I nor my companion would have had

the courage to have gone in her on her experimental trip.

The mandarin who had the vessel built, had gone to Pekin to obtain a

"button" as his reward for being the first person to launch a

steamer in the Chinese empire. The builder himself will, in all

probability, be obliged to rest contented with the consciousness of

his talent.

From the ship-yard we proceeded to the garden, which was very large

but greatly neglected. There were neither alleys nor fruit trees,

rocks nor figures; but, to make up for these, an insufferable

quantity of summer-houses, bridges, galleries, little temples, and

pagodas.

The dwelling-house consisted of a large hall and a number of small

chambers. The walls were ornamented, both inside and out, with

carved wood-work, and the roof abundantly decorated with points and

pinnacles.

In the large halls plays and other entertainments are sometimes

enacted for the amusement of the ladies, who are universally

confined to their houses and gardens, which can only be visited by

strangers in their absence. {112}

A number of peacocks, silver-pheasants, mandarin-ducks, and deer are

preserved in their gardens. In one corner was a small, gloomy

bamboo plantation, in which were some family graves; and not far off

a small earthen mound had been raised, with a wooden tablet, on

which was a long poetical inscription in honour of the favourite

snake of the mandarin, which was buried there.

After duly inspecting everything, we set off on our road home, and

reached there in safety.

I was not so fortunate a few days later on visiting a tea-factory.

The proprietor conducted me himself over the workshops, which

consisted of large halls, in which six hundred people, including a

great many old women and children, were at work. My entrance

occasioned a perfect revolt. Old and young rose from work, the

elder portion lifting up the younger members of the community in

their arms and pointing at me with their fingers. The whole mass

then pressed close upon me and raised so horrible a cry that I began

to be alarmed. The proprietor and his overseer had a difficult task

to keep off the crowd, and begged me to content myself with a hasty

glance at the different objects, and then to quit the building as

soon as possible.

In consequence of this I could only manage to observe that the

leaves of the plant are thrown for a few seconds into boiling water,

and then placed in flat iron pans, fixed slantingly in stone-work,

where they are slightly roasted by a gentle heat, during which

process they are continually stirred by hand. As soon as they begin

to curl a little, they are thrown upon large planks, and each single

leaf is rolled together. This is effected with such rapidity, that

it requires a person's undivided attention to perceive that no more

than one leaf is rolled up at a time. After this, all the leaves

are placed once more in the pan. Black tea takes some time to

roast, and the green is frequently coloured with Prussian blue, an

exceedingly small quantity of which is added during the second

roasting. Last of all the tea is once more shaken out upon the

large boards, in order that it may be carefully inspected, and the

leaves that are not entirely closed are rolled over again.

Before I left, the proprietor conducted me into his house, and

treated me to a cup of tea prepared after the fashion in which it is

usually drunk by rich and noble Chinese. A small quantity was

placed in a China cup, boiling water poured upon it, and the cup

then closed with a tightly-fitting cover. In a few seconds the tea

is then drank and the leaves left at the bottom. The Chinese take

neither sugar, rum, nor milk with their tea; they say that anything

added to it, and even the stirring of it, causes it to lose its

aroma; in my cup, however, a little sugar was put.

The tea-plant, which I saw in the plantations round about Canton,

was at most six feet high; it is not allowed to grow any higher, and

is consequently cut at intervals. Its leaves are used from the

third to the eighth year; and the plant is then cut down, in order

that it may send forth new shoots, or else it is rooted out. There

are three gatherings in the year; the first in March, the second in

April, and the third, which lasts for three months, in May. The

leaves of the first gathering are so delicate and fine that they

might easily be taken for the blossom, which has no doubt given rise

to the error that the so-called "bloom or imperial tea" is supposed

not to consist of the leaves but of the blossom itself. {114} This

gathering is so hurtful to the plant that it often perishes.

I was informed that the tea which comes from the neighbourhood of

Canton is the worst, and that from the provinces somewhat more to

the north the best. The tea manufacturers of Canton are said to

possess the art of giving tea that has been frequently used, or

spoiled by rain, the appearance of good tea. They dry and roast the

leaves, colour them yellow with powdered kurkumni, or light green

with Prussian blue, and then roll them tightly up. The price of the

tea sent to Europe varies from fifteen to sixty dollars (3 to 12

pounds) a pikul, of 134 lb. English weight. The kind at sixty

dollars does not find a very ready market; the greater part of it is

exported to England. The "bloom" is not met with in trade.

I must mention a sight which I accidentally saw, one evening, upon

the Pearl stream. It was, as I afterwards heard, a thanksgiving

festival in honour of the gods, by the owners of two junks that had

made a somewhat long sea voyage without being pillaged by pirates,

or overtaken by the dangerous typhoon.

Two of the largest flower boats, splendidly illuminated, were

floating gently down the stream. Three rows of lamps were hung

round the upper part of the vessels, forming perfect galleries of

fire; all the cabins were full of chandeliers and lamps, and on the

forecastle large fires were burning out of which rockets darted at

intervals with a loud report, although they only attained the

elevation of a few feet. On the foremost vessel there was a large

mast erected, and hung with myriads of coloured paper lamps up to

its very top, forming a beautiful pyramid. Two boats, abundantly

furnished with torches and provided with boisterous music, preceded

these two fiery masses. Slowly did they float through the darkness

of the night, appearing like the work of fairy hands. Sometimes

they stopped, when high flames, fed with holy perfumed paper,

flickered upwards to the sky.

Perfumed paper, which must be bought from the priests, is burnt at

every opportunity, and very frequently beforehand, after every

prayer. From the trade in this paper the greater portion of the

priests' income is derived.

On several occasions, accompanied by Herr von Carlowitz, I took

short walks in the streets near the factory. I found the greater

pleasure in examining the beautiful articles of Chinese manufacture,

which I could here do at my leisure, as the shops were not so open

as those I saw during my excursion round the walls of Canton, but

had doors and windows like our own, so that I could walk in and be

protected from the pressure of the crowd. The streets, also, in

this quarter were somewhat broader, well paved, and protected with

mats or planks to keep off the burning heat of the sun.

In the neighbourhood of the factory, namely in Fousch-an, where most

of the manufactories are situated, a great many places may be

reached by water, as the streets, like those in Venice, are

intersected by canals. This quarter of Canton, however, is not the

handsomest, because all the warehouses are erected on the sides of

the canals, where the different workmen have also taken up their

residence in miserable huts that, built half upon the ground and

half upon worm-eaten piles, stretch far out over the water.

I had now been altogether, from July 13th to August 20th, five weeks

in Canton. The season was the hottest in the whole year, and the

heat was really insupportable. In the house, the glass rose as high

as 94.5 degrees, and out of doors, in the shade, as high as 99

degrees. To render this state of things bearable, the inhabitants

use, besides the punkas in the rooms, wicker-work made of bamboo.

This wicker-work is placed before the windows and doors, or over

those portions of the roofs under which the workshops are situated.

Even whole walls are formed of it, standing about eight or ten feet

from the real ones, and provided with entrances, window-openings,

and roofs. The houses are most effectually disguised by it.

On my return to Hong-Kong, I again set out on board a junk, but not

so fearlessly as the first time; the unhappy end of Monsieur Vauchee

was still fresh in my memory. I took the precaution of packing up

the few clothes and linen I had in the presence of the servants,

that they might be convinced that any trouble the pirates might give

themselves on my account would be thrown away.

On the evening of the 20th of August I bade Canton, and all my

friends there, farewell; and at 9 o'clock I was once again floating

down the Si-Kiang, or Pearl stream, famous for the deeds of horror

perpetrated on it.