The political horizon of France threatens nothing but tempests. If we

are still tranquil here, it is only because the storm is retarded, and,

far from deeming ourselves secure from its violence, we suffer in

apprehension almost as much as at other places is suffered in reality.

An hundred and fifty people have been arrested at Amiens in one night,

and numbers of the gentry in the neighbouring towns have shared the same

fate. This measure, which I understand is general throughout the

republic, has occasioned great alarms, and is beheld by the mass of the

people themselves with regret. In some towns, the Bourgeois have

petitions to the Representatives on mission in behalf of their gentry

thus imprisoned: but, far from succeeding, all who have signed such

petitions are menaced and intimidated, and the terror is so much

increased, that I doubt if even this slight effort will be repeated any

where.

The levee en masse, or rising in a body, which has been for some time

decreed, has not yet taken place. There are very few, I believe, that

comprehend it, and fewer who are disposed to comply. Many consultations

have been holden, many plans proposed; but as the result of all these

consultations and plans is to send a certain number to the frontiers, the

suffrages have never been unanimous except in giving their negative.--

Like Falstaff's troops, every one has some good cause of exemption; and

if you were to attend a meeting where this affair is discussed, you would

conclude the French to be more physically miserable than any people on

the glove. Youths, in apparent good health, have internal disorders, or

concealed infirmities--some are near-sighted--others epileptic--one is

nervous, and cannot present a musquet--another is rheumatic, and cannot

carry it. In short, according to their account, they are a collection of

the lame, the halt, and the blind, and fitter to send to the hospital,

than to take the field. But, in spite of all these disorders and

incapacities, a considerable levy must be made, and the dragoons will, I

dare say, operate very wonderful cures.

The surrender of Dunkirk to the English is regarded as inevitable. I am

not politician enough to foresee the consequences of such an event, but

the hopes and anxieties of all parties seem directed thither, as if the

fate of the war depended on it. As for my own wishes on the subject,

they are not national, and if I secretly invoke the God of Armies for the

success of my countrymen, it is because I think all that tends to destroy

the present French government may be beneficial to mankind. Indeed, the

successes of war can at no time gratify a thinking mind farther than as

they tend to the establishment of peace.

After several days of a mockery which was called a trial, though the

witnesses were afraid to appear, or the Counsel to plead in his favour,

Custine has suffered at the Guillotine. I can be no judge of his

military conduct, and Heaven alone can judge of his intentions. None of

the charges were, however, substantiated, and many of them were absurd or

frivolous. Most likely, he has been sacrificed to a cabal, and his

destruction makes a part of that system of policy, which, by agitating

the minds of the people with suspicions of universal treason and

unfathomable plots, leaves them no resource but implicit submission to

their popular leaders.

The death of Custine seems rather to have stimulated than appeased the

barbarity of the Parisian mob. At every defeat of their armies they call

for executions, and several of those on whom the lot has fallen to march

against the enemy have stipulated, at the tribune of the Jacobins, for

the heads they exact as a condition of their departure,* or as the reward

for their labours. The laurel has no attraction for heroes like these,

who invest themselves with the baneful yew and inauspicious cypress, and

go to the field of honour with the dagger of the assassin yet

ensanguined.

* Many insisted they would not depart until after the death of the

Queen--some claimed the death of one General, some that of another,

and all, the lives or banishment of the gentry and clergy.

"Fair steeds, gay shields, bright arms," [Spencer.] the fancy-created

deity, the wreath of fame, and all that poets have imagined to decorate

the horrors of war, are not necessary to tempt the gross barbarity of the

Parisian: he seeks not glory, but carnage--his incentive is the groans of

defenceless victims--he inlists under the standard of the Guillotine, and

acknowledges the executioner for his tutelary Mars.

In remarking the difficulties that have occurred in carrying into

execution the levee en masse, I neglected to inform you that the prime

mover of all these machinations is your omnipotent Mr. Pitt--it is he who

has fomented the perverseness of the towns, and alarmed the timidity of

the villages--he has persuaded some that it is not pleasant to leave

their shops and families, and insinuated into the minds of others that

death or wounds are not very desirable--he has, in fine, so effectually

achieved his purpose, that the Convention issues decree after decree, the

members harangue to little purpose, and the few recruits already levied,

like those raised in the spring, go from many places strongly escorted to

the army.--I wish I had more peaceful and more agreeable subjects for

your amusement, but they do not present themselves, and "you must blame

the times, not me." I would wish to tell you that the legislature is

honest, that the Jacobins are humane, and the people patriots; but you

know I have no talent for fiction, and if I had, my situation is not

favourable to any effort of fancy.--Yours.

Peronne, Sept. 7, 1793.

The successes of the enemy on all sides, the rebellion at Lyons and

Marseilles, with the increasing force of the insurgents in La Vendee,

have revived our eagerness for news, and if the indifference of the

French character exempt them from more patriotic sensations, it does not

banish curiosity; yet an eventful crisis, which in England would draw

people together, here keeps them apart. When an important piece of

intelligence arrives, our provincial politicians shut themselves up with

their gazettes, shun society, and endeavour to avoid giving an opinion

until they are certain of the strength of a party, or the success of an

attempt. In the present state of public affairs, you may therefore

conceive we have very little communication--we express our sentiments

more by looks and gestures than words, and Lavater (admitting his system)

would be of more use to a stranger than Boyer or Chambaud. If the

English take Dunkirk, perhaps we may be a little more social and more

decided.

Mad. de ____ has a most extensive acquaintance, and, as we are situated

on one of the roads from Paris to the northern army, notwithstanding the

cautious policy of the moment, we are tolerably well informed of what

passes in most parts of France; and I cannot but be astonished, when I

combine all I hear, that the government is able to sustain itself. Want,

discord, and rebellion, assail it within--defeats and losses from

without. Perhaps the solution of this political problem can only be

found in the selfishness of the French character, and the want of

connection between the different departments. Thus one part of the

country is subdued by means of another: the inhabitants of the South take

up arms in defence of their freedom and their commerce, while those of

the North refuse to countenance or assist them, and wait in selfish

tranquillity till the same oppression is extended to themselves. The

majority of the people have no point of union nor mode of communication,

while the Jacobins, whose numbers are comparatively insignificant, are

strong, by means of their general correspondence, their common center at

Paris, and the exclusive direction of all the public prints. But,

whatever are the causes, it is certain that the government is at once

powerful and detested--almost without apparent support, yet difficult to

overthrow; and the submission of Rome to a dotard and a boy can no longer

excite the wonder of any one who reflects on what passes in France.

After various decrees to effect the levee en masse, the Convention have

discovered that this sublime and undefined project was not calculated for

the present exhausted state of martial ardour. They therefore no longer

presume on any movement of enthusiasm, but have made a positive and

specific requisition of all the male inhabitants of France between

eighteen and twenty-five years of age. This, as might be expected, has

been more effectual, because it interests those that are exempt to force

the compliance of those who are not. Our young men here were like

children with a medicine--they proposed first one form of taking this

military potion, then another, and finding them all equally unpalatable,

would not, but for a little salutary force, have decided at all.

A new law has been passed for arresting all the English who cannot

produce two witnesses of their civisme, and those whose conduct is thus

guaranteed are to receive tickets of hospitality, which they are to wear

as a protection. This decree has not yet been carried into effect at

Peronne, nor am I much disturbed about it. Few of our countrymen will

find the matter very difficult to arrange, and I believe they have all a

better protection in the disposition of the people towards them, than any

that can be assured them by decrees of the Convention.

Sept. 11. The news of Lord Hood's taking possession of Toulon, which the

government affected to discredit for some days, is now ascertained; and

the Convention, in a paroxism of rage, at once cowardly and unprincipled,

has decreed that all the English not resident in France before 1789,

shall be imprisoned as hostages, and be answerable with their lives for

the conduct of their countrymen and of the Toulonese towards Bayle and

Beauvais, two Deputies, said to be detained in the town at the time of

its surrender. My first emotions of terror and indignation have

subsided, and I have, by packing up my clothes, disposing of my papers,

and providing myself with money, prepared for the worst. My friends,

indeed, persuade me, (as on a former occasion,) that the decree is too

atrocious to be put in execution; but my apprehensions are founded on a

principle not likely to deceive me--namely, that those who have possessed

themselves of the French government are capable of any thing. I live in

constant fear, watching all day and listening all night, and never go to

bed but with the expectation of being awakened, nor rise without a

presentiment of misfortune.--I have not spirits nor composure to write,

and shall discontinue my letters until I am relieved from suspense, if

nor from uneasiness. I risk much by preserving these papers, and,

perhaps, may never be able to add to them; but whatever I may be reserved

for, while I have a hope they may reach you they shall not be destroyed.

--I bid you adieu in a state of mind which the circumstances I am under

will describe better than words.--Yours.

Maison d'Arret, Arras, Oct. 15, 1793.

Dear Brother,

The fears of a timid mind usually magnify expected evil, and anticipated

suffering often diminishes the effect of an apprehended blow; yet my

imagination had suggested less than I have experienced, nor do I find

that a preparatory state of anxiety has rendered affliction more

supportable. The last month of my life has been a compendium of misery;

and my recollection, which on every other subject seems to fail me, is,

on this, but too faithful, and will enable me to relate events which will

interest you not only as they personally concern me, but as they present

a picture of the barbarity and despotism to which this whole country is

subject, and to which many thousands besides myself were at the same

instant victims.

A few evenings after I concluded my last, the firing of cannon and

ringing the great bell announced the arrival of Dumont (still

Representative en mission in our department). The town was immediately

in alarm, all the gates were shut, and the avenues leading to the

ramparts guarded by dragoons. Our house being in a distant and

unfrequented street, before we could learn the cause of all this

confusion, a party of the national guard, with a municipal officer at

their head, arrived, to escort Mad. de ___ and myself to a church, where

the Representant was then examining the prisoners brought before him.

Almost as much astonished as terrified, we endeavoured to procure some

information of our conductors, as to what was to be the result of this

measure; but they knew nothing, and it was easy to perceive they thought

the office they were executing an unpleasant one. The streets we passed

were crouded with people, whose silent consternation and dismayed

countenances increased our forebodings, and depressed the little courage

we had yet preserved. The church at our arrival was nearly empty, and

Dumont preparing to depart, when the municipal officer introduced us to

him. As soon as he learned that Mad. de ____ was the sister of an

emigrant, and myself a native of England, he told us we were to pass the

night in a church appointed for the purpose, and that on the morrow we

should be conveyed to Arras. For a moment all my faculties became

suspended, and it was only by an effort almost convulsive that I was able

to ask how long it was probable we should be deprived of our liberty. He

said he did not know--"but that the raising of the siege of Dunkirk, and

the loss of six thousand troops which the French had taken prisoners,

would doubtless produce an insurrection in England, par consequent a

peace, and our release from captivity!"

You may be assured I felt no desire of freedom on such terms, and should

have heard this ignorant and malicious suggestion only with contempt, had

not the implication it conveyed that our detention would not terminate

but with the war overwhelmed every other idea. Mad. de ____ then

petitioned that we might, on account of our health, (for we were both

really unwell,) be permitted to go home for the night, accompanied by

guards if it were thought necessary. But the Representant was

inexorable, and in a brutal and despotic tone ordered us away.--When we

reached the church, which was to be our prison till morning, we found

about an hundred and fifty people, chiefly old men, women, and children,

dispersed in melancholy groupes, lamenting their situation, and imparting

their fears to each other. The gloom of the building was increased by

the darkness of the night; and the noise of the guard, may of whom were

intoxicated, the odour of tobacco, and the heat of the place, rendered

our situation almost insupportable. We soon discovered several of our

acquaintance, but this association in distress was far from consolatory,

and we passed the time in wandering about together, and consulting upon

what would be of most use to us in our confinement. We had, indeed,

little to hope for from the morrow, yet the hours dragged on heavily, and

I know not if ever I beheld the return of light with more pleasure. I

was not without apprehension for our personal safety. I recollected the

massacres in churches at Paris, and the frequent propositions that had

been made to exterminate the gentry and clergy. Mad. de ____ has since

confessed, that she had the same ideas.

Morning at length came, and our servants were permitted to enter with

breakfast. They appeared sorrowful and terror-stricken, but offered with

great willingness to accompany us whithersoever we should be sent. After

a melancholy sort of discussion, it was decided that we should take our

femmes de chambres, and that the others should remain for the safety of

the house, and to send us what we might have occasion for. This settled,

they returned with such directions as we were able to give them, (God

knows, not very coherent ones,) to prepare for our journey: and as our

orders, however confused, were not very voluminous, they were soon

executed, and before noon every thing was in readiness for our departure.

The people employed by our companions were equally diligent, and we might

very well have set out by one o'clock, had our case been at all

considered; but, I know not why, instead of so providing that we might

reach our destination in the course of the day, it seemed to have been

purposely contrived that we should be all night on the road, though we

had already passed one night without rest, and were exhausted by watching

and fatigue.

In this uncertain and unpleasant state we waited till near six o'clock;

a number of small covered waggons were then brought, accompanied by a

detachment of dragoons, who were to be our escort. Some time elapsed, as

you may suppose, before we could be all settled in the carriages and such

a cavalcade put in motion; but the concourse of people that filled the

streets, the appearance of the troops, and the tumult occasioned by so

many horses and carriages, overpowered my spirits, and I remember little

of what passed till I found we were on the road to Arras. Mad. de ____'s

maid now informed us, that Dumont had arrived the evening before in

extreme ill humour, summoned the municipality in haste, enquired how many

people they had arrested, and what denunciations they had yet to make.

The whole body corporate trembled, they had arrested no one, and, still

worse, they had no one to accuse; and could only alledge in their behalf,

that the town was in the utmost tranquillity, and the people were so well

disposed, that all violence was unnecessary. The Representant became

furious, vociferated _tout grossierement a la Francaise,_ [In the vulgar

French manner.] that he knew there were five thousand aristocrates in

Peronne, and that if he had not at least five hundred brought him before

morning, he would declare the town in a state of rebellion.

Alarmed by this menace, they began to arrest with all possible speed,

and were more solicitous to procure their number than to make

discriminations. Their diligence, however, was inadequate to appease the

choleric legislator, and the Mayor, municipal officers, and all the

administrators of the district, were in the morning sent to the Castle,

whence they are to be conveyed, with some of their own prisoners, to

Amiens.

Besides this intelligence, we learned that before our servants had

finished packing up our trunks, some Commissioners of the section arrived

to put the seals on every thing belonging to us, and it was not without

much altercation that they consented to our being furnished with

necessaries--that they had not only sealed up all the house, but had

placed guards there, each of whom Mad. de ____ is to pay, at the rate of

two shillings a day.

We were too large a body to travel fast, and by the time we reached

Bapaume (though only fifteen miles) it was after twelve; it rained

dreadfully, the night was extremely dark, the roads were bad, and the

horses tired; so that the officer who conducted us thought it would be

difficult to proceed before morning. We were therefore once more crouded

into a church, in our wet clothes, (for the covering of the waggon was

not thick enough to exclude the rain,) a few bundles of damp straw were

distributed, and we were then shut up to repose as well as we could. All

my melancholy apprehensions of the preceding night returned with

accumulated force, especially as we were now in a place where we were

unknown, and were guarded by some of the newly-raised dragoons, of whom

we all entertained very unfavourable suspicions.

We did not, as you may well imagine, attempt to sleep--a bed of wet straw

laid on the pavement of a church, filthy, as most French churches are,

and the fear of being assassinated, resisted every effort of nature

herself, and we were very glad when at the break of day we were summoned

to continue our journey. About eleven we entered Arras: the streets were

filled by idle people, apprized of our arrival; but no one offered us any

insult, except some soldiers, (I believe, by their uniform, refugees from

the Netherlands,) who cried, "a la Guillotine!--a la Guillotine!"

The place to which we were ordered had been the house of an emigrant,

now converted into an house of detention, and which, though large, was

excessively full. The keeper, on our being delivered to him, declared he

had no room for us, and we remained with our baggage in the court-yard

some hours before he had, by dislodging and compressing the other

inhabitants, contrived to place us. At last, when we were half dead with

cold and fatigue, we were shown to our quarters. Those allotted for my

friend, myself, and our servants, was the corner of a garret without a

cieling, cold enough in itself, but rendered much warmer than was

desirable by the effluvia of a score of living bodies, who did not seem

to think the unpleasantness of their situation at all increased by dirt

and offensive smells. Weary as we were, it was impossible to attempt

reposing until a purification had been effected: we therefore set

ourselves to sprinkling vinegar and burning perfumes; and it was curious

to observe that the people, (_all gens comme il faut_ [People of

fashion.]) whom we found inhaling the atmosphere of a Caffrarian hut,

declared their nerves were incommoded by the essence of roses and

vinaigre des quatre voleurs.

As a part of the room was occupied by men, our next business was to

separate our corner by a curtain, which we had fortunately brought with

our bedding; and this done, we spread our mattresses and lay down, while

the servants were employed in getting us tea. As soon as we were a

little refreshed, and the room was quiet for the night, we made up our

beds as well as we could, and endeavoured to sleep. Mad. de ____ and the

two maids soon forgot their cares; but, though worn out by fatigue, the

agitation of my mind conquered the disposition of my body. I seemed to

have lost the very faculty of sleeping, and passed this night with almost

as little repose as the two preceding ones. Before morning I discovered

that remaining so long in damp clothes, and the other circumstances of

our journey, had given me cold, and that I had all the symptoms of a

violent fever.

I leave you to conjecture, for it would be impossible to detail, all the

misery of illness in such a situation; and I will only add, that by the

care of Mad. de ____, whose health was happily less affected, and the

attention of my maid, I was able to leave the room in about three weeks.

--I must now secrete this for some days, but will hereafter resume my

little narrative, and explain how I have ventured to write so much even

in the very neighbourhood of the Guillotine.--Adieu.

Maison d'Arret, Arras, Oct. 17, 1793.

On the night I concluded my last, a report that Commissioners were to

visit the house on the morrow obliged me to dispose of my papers beyond

the possibility of their being found. The alarm is now over, and I

proceed.--After something more than three weeks indisposition, I began to

walk in the yard, and make acquaintance with our fellow-prisoners. Mad.

de ____ had already discovered several that were known to her, and I now

found, with much regret, that many of my Arras friends were here also.

Having been arrested some days before us, they were rather more

conveniently lodged, and taking the wretchedness of our garret into

consideration, it was agreed that Mad. de ____ should move to a room less

crouded than our own, and a dark closet that would just contain my

mattresses was resigned to me. It is indeed a very sorry apartment, but

as it promises me a refuge where I may sometimes read or write in peace,

I have taken possession of it very thankfully. A lock on the door is not

the least of its recommendations, and by way of securing myself against

all surprize, I have contrived an additional fastening by means of a

large nail and the chain of a portmanteau--I have likewise, under pretext

of keeping out the wind, papered over the cracks of the door, and

provided myself with a sand-bag, so that no one can perceive when I have

a light later than usual.--With these precautions, I can amuse myself by

putting on paper any little occurrences that I think worth preserving,

without much danger, and perhaps the details of a situation so new and so

strange may not be uninteresting to you.

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