"About two o'clock on Monday morning last our servants were called

up, and, on their opening the door, the house was immediately filled

with armed men, some of whom began searching the rooms, while others

came to our bedchamber, and informed us we were arrested by order of

the department, and that we must rise and accompany them to prison.

It is not easy to describe the effect of such a mandate on people

who, having nothing to reproach themselves with, could not be

prepared for it.--As soon as we were a little recovered from our

first terrors, we endeavoured to obey, and begged they would indulge

us by retiring a few moments till I had put my clothes on; but

neither my embarrassment, nor the screams of the child--neither

decency nor humanity, could prevail. They would not even permit my

maid to enter the room; and, amidst this scene of disorder, I was

obliged to dress myself and the terrified infant. When this

unpleasant task was finished, a general examination of our house and

papers took place, and lasted until six in the evening: nothing,

however, tending in the remotest degree to criminate us was found,

but we were nevertheless conducted to prison, and God knows how long

we are likely to remain here. The denunciation against us being

secret, and not being able to learn either our crime or our

accusers, it is difficult for us to take any measures for our

enlargement. We cannot defend ourselves against a charge of which

we are ignorant, nor combat the validity of a witness, who is not

only allowed to remain secret, but is paid perhaps for his

information.*

* At this time informers were paid from fifty to an hundred

livres for each accusation.

"We most probably owe our misfortune to some discarded servant or

personal enemy, for I believe you are convinced we have not merited

it either by our discourse or our actions: if we had, the charge

would have been specific; but we have reason to imagine it is

nothing more than the indeterminate and general charge of being

aristocrates. I did not see my mother or sister all the day we were

arrested, nor till the evening of the next: the one was engaged

perhaps with "Rosine and the Angola", who were indisposed, and the

other would not forego her usual card-party. Many of our friends

likewise have forborne to approach us, lest their apparent interest

in our fate should involve themselves; and really the alarm is so

general, that I can, without much effort, forgive them.

"You will be pleased to learn, that the greatest civilities I have

received in this unpleasant situation, have been from some of your

countrymen, who are our fellow-prisoners: they are only poor

sailors, but they are truly kind and attentive, and do us various

little services that render us more comfortable than we otherwise

should be; for we have no servants here, having deemed it prudent to

leave them to take care of our property. The second night we were

here, these good creatures, who lodge in the next room, were rather

merry, and awoke the child; but as they found, by its cries, that

their gaiety had occasioned me some trouble, I have observed ever

since that they walk softly, and avoid making the least noise, after

the little prisoner is gone to rest. I believe they are pleased

with me because I speak their language, and they are still more

delighted with your young favourite, who is so well amused, that he

begins to forget the gloom of the place, which at first terrified

him extremely.

"One of our companions is a nonjuring priest, who has been

imprisoned under circumstances which make me almost ashamed of my

country.--After having escaped from a neighbouring department, he

procured himself a lodging in this town, and for some time lived

very peaceably, till a woman, who suspected his profession, became

extremely importunate with him to confess her. The poor man, for

several days, refused, telling her, that he did not consider himself

as a priest, nor wished to be known as such, nor to infringe the law

which excluded him. The woman, however, still continued to

persecute him, alledging, that her conscience was distressed, and

that her peace depended on her being able to confess "in the right

way." At length he suffered himself to be prevailed upon--the woman

received an hundred livres for informing against him, and, perhaps,

the priest will be condemned to the Guillotine.*

* He was executed some time after.

"I will make no reflection on this act, nor on the system of paying

informers--your heart will already have anticipated all I could say.

I will only add, that if you determine to remain in France, you must

observe a degree of circumspection which you may not hitherto have

thought necessary. Do not depend on your innocence, nor even trust

to common precautions--every day furnishes examples that both are

unavailing.--Adieu.--My husband offers you his respects, and your

little friend embraces you sincerely. As soon as any change in our

favour takes place, I will communicate it to you; but you had better

not venture to write--I entrust this to Louison's mother, who is

going through Amiens, as it would be unsafe to send it by the post.

--Again adieu.--Yours,

"Adelaide de ____."

Amiens, 1793.

It is observable, that we examine less scrupulously the pretensions of a

nation to any particular excellence, than we do those of an individual.

The reason of this is, probably, that our self-love is as much gratified

by admitting the one, as in rejecting the other. When we allow the

claims of a whole people, we are flattered with the idea of being above

narrow prejudices, and of possessing an enlarged and liberal mind; but if

a single individual arrogate to himself any exclusive superiority, our

own pride immediately becomes opposed to his, and we seem but to

vindicate our judgement in degrading such presumption.

I can conceive no other causes for our having so long acquiesced in the

claims of the French to pre-eminent good breeding, in an age when, I

believe, no person acquainted with both nations can discover any thing to

justify them. If indeed politeness consisted in the repetition of a

certain routine of phrases, unconnected with the mind or action, I might

be obliged to decide against our country; but while decency makes a part

of good manners, or feeling is preferable to a mechanical jargon, I am

inclined to think the English have a merit more than they have hitherto

ascribed to themselves. Do not suppose, however, that I am going to

descant on the old imputations of "French flattery," and "French

insincerity;" for I am far from concluding that civil behaviour gives one

a right to expect kind offices, or that a man is false because he pays a

compliment, and refuses a service: I only wish to infer, that an

impertinence is not less an impertinence because it is accompanied by a

certain set of words, and that a people, who are indelicate to excess,

cannot properly be denominated "a polite people."

A French man or woman, with no other apology than _"permettez moi,"_

["Give me leave."] will take a book out of your hand, look over any thing

you are reading, and ask you a thousand questions relative to your most

private concerns--they will enter your room, even your bedchamber,

without knocking, place themselves between you and the fire, or take hold

of your clothes to guess what they cost; and they deem these acts of

rudeness sufficiently qualified by _"Je demande bien de pardons."_ ["I

ask you a thousand pardons."]--They are fully convinced that the English

all eat with their knives, and I have often heard this discussed with

much self-complacence by those who usually shared the labours of the

repast between a fork and their fingers. Our custom also of using

water-glasses after dinner is an object of particular censure; yet whoever

dines at a French table must frequently observe, that many of the guests

might benefit by such ablutions, and their napkins always testify that

some previous application would be by no means superfluous. Nothing is

more common than to hear physical derangements, disorders, and their

remedies, expatiated upon by the parties concerned amidst a room full of

people, and that with so much minuteness of description, that a

foreigner, without being very fastidious, is on some occasions apt to

feel very unpleasant sympathies. There are scarcely any of the

ceremonies of a lady's toilette more a mystery to one sex than the other,

and men and their wives, who scarcely eat at the same table, are in this

respect grossly familiar. The conversation in most societies partakes of

this indecency, and the manners of an English female are in danger of

becoming contaminated, while she is only endeavouring to suffer without

pain the customs of those she has been taught to consider as models of

politeness.

Whether you examine the French in their houses or in public, you are

every where stricken with the same want of delicacy, propriety, and

cleanliness. The streets are mostly so filthy, that it is perilous to

approach the walls. The insides of the churches are often disgusting, in

spite of the advertisements that are placed in them to request the

forbearance of phthifical persons: the service does not prevent those who

attend from going to and fro with the same irreverence as if the church

were empty; and, in the most solemn part of the mass, a woman is suffered

to importune you for a liard, as the price of the chair you sit on. At

the theatres an actor or actress frequently coughs and expectorates on

the stage, in a manner one should think highly unpardonable before one's

most intimate friends in England, though this habit is very common to all

the French. The inns abound with filth of every kind, and though the

owners of them are generally civil enough, their notions of what is

decent are so very different from ours, that an English traveller is not

soon reconciled to them. In short, it would be impossible to enumerate

all that in my opinion excludes the French from the character of a

well-bred people.--Swift, who seems to have been gratified by the

contemplation of physical impurity, might have done the subject justice;

but I confess I am not displeased to feel that, after my long and

frequent residences in France, I am still unqualified. So little are

these people susceptible of delicacy, propriety, and decency, that they

do not even use the words in the sense we do, nor have they any others

expressive of the same meaning.

But if they be deficient in the external forms of politeness, they are

infinitely more so in that politeness which may be called mental. The

simple and unerring rule of never preferring one's self, is to them more

difficult of comprehension than the most difficult problem in Euclid: in

small things as well as great, their own interest, their own

gratification, is their leading principle; and the cold flexibility which

enables them to clothe this selfish system in "fair forms," is what they

call politeness.

My ideas on this subject are not recent, but they occurred to me with

additional force on the perusal of Mad. de B____'s letter. The behaviour

of some of the poorest and least informed class of our countrymen forms a

striking contrast with that of the people who arrested her, and even her

own friends: the unaffected attention of the one, and the brutality and

neglect of the other, are, perhaps, more just examples of English and

French manners than you may have hitherto imagined. I do not, however,

pretend to say that the latter are all gross and brutal, but I am myself

convinced that, generally speaking, they are an unfeeling people.

I beg you to remember, that when I speak of the dispositions and

character of the French, my opinions are the result of general

observation, and are applicable to all ranks; but when my remarks are on

habits and manners, they describe only those classes which are properly

called the nation. The higher noblesse, and those attached to courts, so

nearly resemble each other in all countries, that they are necessarily

excepted in these delineations, which are intended to mark the

distinguishing features of a people at large: for, assuredly, when the

French assert, and their neighbours repeat, that they are a polite

nation, it is not meant that those who have important offices or

dignified appellations are polite: they found their claims on their

superiority as a people, and it is in this light I consider them. My

examples are chiefly drawn, not from the very inferior, nor from the most

eminent ranks; neither from the retailer of a shop, nor the claimant of a

_tabouret,_* or _les grandes ou petites entrees;_ but from the gentry,

those of easy fortunes, merchants, &c.--in fact, from people of that

degree which it would be fair to cite as what may be called genteel

society in England.

* The tabouret was a stool allowed to the Ladies of the Court

particularly distinguished by rank or favour, when in presence of

the Royal Family.--"Les entrees" gave a familiar access to the King

and Queen.

This cessation of intercourse with our country dispirits me, and, as it

will probably continue some time, I shall amuse myself by noting more

particularly the little occurrences which may not reach your public

prints, but which tend more than great events to mark both the spirit of

the government and that of the people.--Perhaps you may be ignorant that

the prohibition of the English mails was not the consequence of a decree

of the Convention, but a simple order of its commissioners; and I have

some reason to think that even they acted at the instigation of an

individual who harbours a mean and pitiful dislike to England and its

inhabitants.--Yours, &c.

May 18, 1793.

Near six weeks ago a decree was passed by the Convention, obliging all

strangers, who had not purchased national property, or who did not

exercise some profession, to give security to the amount of half their

supposed fortune, and under these conditions they were to receive a

certificate, allowing them to reside, and were promised the protection of

the laws. The administrators of the departments, who perceive that they

become odious by executing the decrees of the Convention, begin to relax

much of their diligence, and it is not till long after a law is

promulgated, and their personal fear operates as a stimulant, that they

seriously enforce obedience to these mandates. This morning, however, we

were summoned by the Committee of our section (or ward) in order to

comply with the terms of the decree, and had I been directed only by my

own judgement, I should have given the preference to an immediate return

to England; but Mrs. D____ is yet ill, and Mr. D____ is disposed to

continue. In vain have I quoted "how fickle France was branded 'midst

the nations of the earth for perfidy and breach of public faith;" in vain

have I reasoned upon the injustice of a government that first allured

strangers to remain by insidious offers of protection, and now subjects

them to conditions which many may find it difficult to subscribe to: Mr.

D____ wishes to see our situation in the most favourable point of view:

he argues upon the moral impossibility of our being liable to any

inconvenience, and persists in believing that one government may act with

treachery towards another, yet, distinguishing between falsehood and

meanness, maintain its faith with individuals--in short, we have

concluded a sort of treaty, by which we are bound, under the forfeiture

of a large sum, to behave peaceably and submit to the laws. The

government, in return, empowers us to reside, and promises protection and

hospitality.

It is to be observed, that the spirit of this regulation depends upon

those it affects producing six witnesses of their _"civisme;"_* yet so

little interest do the people take on these occasions, that our witnesses

were neighbours we had scarcely ever seen, and even one was a man who

happened to be casually passing by.

* Though the meaning of this word is obvious, we have no one that is

exactly synonymous to it. The Convention intend by it an attachment

to their government: but the people do not trouble themselves about

the meaning of words--they measure their unwilling obedience by the

letter.

These Committees, which form the last link of a chain of despotism, are

composed of low tradesmen and day-labourers, with an attorney, or some

person that can read and write, at their head, as President. Priests and

nobles, with all that are related, or anywise attached, to them, are

excluded by the law; and it is understood that true sans-culottes only

should be admitted.

With all these precautions, the indifference and hatred of the people to

their government are so general, that, perhaps, there are few places

where this regulation is executed so as to answer the purposes of the

jealous tyranny that conceived it. The members of these Committees seem

to exact no farther compliances than such as are absolutely necessary to

the mere form of the proceeding, and to secure themselves from the

imputation of disobedience; and are very little concerned whether the

real design of the legislature be accomplished or not. This negligence,

or ill-will, which prevails in various instances, tempers, in some

degree, the effect of that restless suspicion which is the usual

concomitant of an uncertain, but arbitrary, power. The affections or

prejudices that surround a throne, by ensuring the safety of the Monarch,

engage him to clemency, and the laws of a mild government are, for the

most part, enforced with exactness; but a new and precarious authority,

which neither imposes on the understanding nor interests the heart, which

is supported only by a palpable and unadorned tyranny, is in its nature

severe, and it becomes the common cause of the people to counteract the

measures of a despotism which they are unable to resist.--This (as I have

before had occasion to observe) renders the condition of the French less

insupportable, but it is by no means sufficient to banish the fears of a

stranger who has been accustomed to look for security, not from a

relaxation or disregard of the laws, but from their efficacy; not from

the characters of those who execute them, but from the rectitude with

which they are formed.--What would you think in England, if you were

obliged to contemplate with dread the three branches of your legislature,

and depend for the protection of your person and property on soldiers and

constables? Yet such is nearly the state we are in; and indeed a system

of injustice and barbarism gains ground so fast, that almost any

apprehension is justified.--The Tribunal Revolutionnaire has already

condemned a servant maid for her political opinions; and one of the

Judges of this tribunal lately introduced a man to the Jacobins, with

high panegyrics, because, as he alledged, he had greatly contributed to

the condemnation of a criminal. The same Judge likewise apologized for

having as yet sent but a small number to the Guillotine, and promises,

that, on the first appearance of a "Brissotin" before him, he will show

him no mercy.

When the minister of public justice thus avows himself the agent of a

party, a government, however recent its formation, must be far advanced

in depravity; and the corruption of those who are the interpreters of the

law has usually been the last effort of expiring power.

My friends, Mons. And Mad. de B____, are released from their confinement;

not as you might expect, by proving their innocence, but by the efforts

of an individual, who had more weight than their accuser: and, far from

obtaining satisfaction for the injury they have received, they are

obliged to accept as a favour the liberty they were deprived of by malice

and injustice. They will, most probably, never be acquainted with the

nature of the charges brought against them; and their accuser will escape

with impunity, and, perhaps, meet with reward.

All the French papers are filled with descriptions of the enthusiasm with

which the young men "start to arms" [_Offian._] at the voice of their

country; yet it is very certain, that this enthusiasm is of so subtle and

aerial a form as to be perceivable only to those who are interested in

discovering it. In some places these enthusiastic warriors continue to

hide themselves--from others they are escorted to the place of their

destination by nearly an equal number of dragoons; and no one, I believe,

who can procure money to pay a substitute, is disposed to go himself.

This is sufficiently proved by the sums demanded by those who engage as

substitutes: last year from three to five hundred livres was given; at

present no one will take less than eight hundred or a thousand, besides

being furnished with clothes, &c. The only real volunteers are the sons

of aristocrates, and the relations of emigrants, who, sacrificing their

principles to their fears, hope, by enlisting in the army, to protect

their estates and families: those likewise who have lucrative

employments, and are afraid of losing them, affect great zeal, and expect

to purchase impunity for civil peculation at home, by the military

services of their children abroad.

This, I assure you, is the real state of that enthusiasm which occasions

such an expence of eloquence to our gazette-writers; but these fallacious

accounts are not like the ephemeral deceits of your party prints in

England, the effect of which is destroyed in a few hours by an opposite

assertion. None here are bold enough to contradict what their sovereigns

would have believed; and a town or district, driven almost to revolt by

the present system of recruiting, consents very willingly to be described

as marching to the frontiers with martial ardour, and burning to combat

les esclaves des tyrans! By these artifices, one department is misled

with regard to the dispositions of another, and if they do not excite to

emulation, they, at least, repress by fear; and, probably, many are

reduced to submission, who would resist, were they not doubtful of the

support and union of their neighbours. Every possible precaution is

taken to prevent any connections between the different departments--

people who are not known cannot obtain passports without the

recommendation of two housekeepers--you must give an account of the

business you go upon, of the carriage you mean to travel in, whether it

has two wheels or four: all of which must be specified in your passport:

and you cannot send your baggage from one town to another without the

risk of having it searched. All these things are so disgusting and

troublesome, that I begin to be quite of a different opinion from Brutus,

and should certainly prefer being a slave among a free people, than thus

be tormented with the recollection that I am a native of England in a

land of slavery. Whatever liberty the French might have acquired by

their first revolution, it is now much like Sir John Cutler's worsted

stockings, so torn, and worn, and disguised by patchings and mendings,

that the original texture is not discoverable.--Yours, &c.

June 3, 1793.

We have been three days without receiving newspapers; but we learn from

the reports of the courier, that the Brissotins are overthrown, that many

of them have been arrested, and several escaped to raise adherents in the

departments. I, however, doubt much if their success will be very

general: the people have little preference between Brissot and Marat,

Condorcet and Robespierre, and are not greatly solicitous about the names

or even principles of those who govern them--they are not yet accustomed

to take that lively interest in public events which is the effect of a

popular constitution. In England every thing is a subject of debate and

contest, but here they wait in silence the result of any political

measure or party dispute; and, without entering into the merits of the

cause, adopt whatever is successful. While the King was yet alive, the

news of Paris was eagerly sought after, and every disorder of the

metropolis created much alarm: but one would almost suppose that even

curiosity had ceased at his death, for I have observed no subsequent

event (except the defection of Dumouriez) make any very serious

impression. We hear, therefore, with great composure, the present

triumph of the more violent republicans, and suffer without impatience

this interregnum of news, which is to continue until the Convention shall

have determined in what manner the intelligence of their proceedings

shall be related to the departments.

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