My mother had a rather pretty country house at Carriere, near the

forest of Saint-Germain. I spent two months there with her, my

uncle Canrobert, who had returned from emigration, and an old

knight of Malta, M. d'Estresse, a friend of my late father.

Adolphe was not in Paris, he was in Rennes with Bernadotte, the

commander-in-chief of the army of the west, but my younger

brothers and M. Gault came to see us from time to time. In spite

of the kindness and shows of affection which were lavished on me,

I fell into a state of sombre melancholy, and my health

deteriorated. I had suffered so much, physically and mentally! I

became incapable of doing any work. Reading which I had always

loved became insupportable. I spent the greater part of the day

alone in the forest, where I lay in the shade absorbed in my

sorrowful reflections. In the evenings, I accompanied my mother,

my uncle, and the old knight on their usual walk along the bank

of the Seine; but I took very little part in the conversation,

and hid from them my sad thoughts, which revolved always about my

poor father, dying for want of proper care. Although my condition

alarmed my mother, Canrobert, and M. d'Estresse, they had the

good sense not to make matters worse by any remarks which would

have only irritated a sick mind, but they sought gradually to

chase away the unhappy memories which were so affecting me by

bringing forward the holidays of my two younger brothers, who

came to live with us in the country. The presence of these two

children, whom I dearly loved, eased my mind of its sorrows, by

the care I took to make their stay at Carriere a happy one. I

took them to Versailles, to Maisons and to Marly, and their

childish happiness slowly brought back to life my spirits which

had been so cruelly crushed by misfortune. Who could have thought

that these two children, so lovely and full of life would soon be

no more?

Chap. 14.

The end of the autumn of 1800 was approaching; my mother went

back to Paris, my young brothers went back to school, and I was

ordered to join Bernadotte at Rennes.

Bernadotte had been my father's best friend, and my father had

helped him in various ways on many occasions. In recognition of

the debt owed to my family, he had written to me saying that he

had reserved a place for me as his aide-de-camp. I received this

letter at Nice when I returned from Genoa, and on the strength of

it, I refused an offer from General Massena to take me on as a

permanent aide-de-camp, and to allow me to spend several months

with my mother before joining him and the army of Italy.

My father had arranged that my brother Adolphe should continue

his studies in order to enter the polytechnic; so he was not a

soldier when my father died; but on hearing this sad news, he

rebelled at the thought that his younger brother was already an

officer, and had been in action, while he was still on a school

bench. He gave up the studies required for the technical arms,

and opted to join the infantry instead, which allowed him to

leave school.

He was presented with a good opportunity. The government had

ordered a new regiment to be raised in the department of the

Seine. The officers for this regiment were to be selected by

General Lefebvre, who, as you know, had replaced my father in

command of the Paris division. General Lefebvre was only too

pleased to do something for the son of one of his old companions

who had died in the service of his country; he therefore awarded

my brother the rank of sous-lieutenant in this new unit. So far,

so good! But instead of going to join his company, and without

waiting for my return from Genoa, Adolphe hurried off to General

Bernadotte, who, without further ado, handed the vacant post to

the first brother to arrive, as if it was the prize in a race! So

when I went to join the general staff at Rennes, I learned that

my brother had been gazetted as permanent aide-de-camp, and I was

only a supernumerary, that is to say temporary. I was very

disappointed, because, had I expected this, I would have accepted

the proposal made by General Massena. But this opportunity had

now passed. It was in vain that General Bernadotte assured me

that he would obtain an increase in the establishment of his

aides-de-camp, I did not think this likely, and was convinced

that I would soon be moved elsewhere.

Bernadotte's staff was made up of officers who nearly all reached

senior positions; four were already colonels. The most

outstanding was, undoubtedly, Gerard. He was very clever, brave

and had a natural talent for warfare. He was under the command of

Marshal Grouchy at Waterloo, and gave him some sound advice,

which could have led us to victory. Out of the eleven

aides-de-camp attached to Bernadotte's staff, two became

marshals, three lieutenant-generals, four were brigadiers and one

was killed in action.

In the winter of 1800, Portugal, backed by the English, had

declared war on Spain, and the French government had resolved to

support the latter. In consequence, troops were sent to Bayonne

and Bordeaux, and the companies of Grenadiers who belonged to

various regiments scattered throughout Brittany and the Vendee

were gathered together at Tours. This corps d'elite was intended

to be the nucleus of the so-called army of Portugal, which

Bernadotte was destined to command. The general had to move his

headquarters to Tours; to where had to be sent all his horses and

equipment, as well all that was required for the officers

attached to his service. But the general, partly to receive his

final orders from the First Consul and partly to take Madame

Bernadotte back, had to go to Paris; and as it was customary in

these circumstances during the absence of the general for the

officers of his staff to be permitted to go and take leave of

their families, it was decided that all the permanent aides could

go to Paris, and that the supernumeraries would go to Tours with

the baggage to supervise the servants, pay them every month,

arrange with the supply commission for the distribution of

forage, and the allotment of lodgings for the great number of men

and horses. This disagreeable duty fell to me and my fellow

supernumerary Lieutenant Maurin.

In the depths of winter and the most atrocious weather, we made

on horseback the long eight days journey from Rennes to Tours,

where we had all sorts of difficulties in setting up the

headquarters. We had been told that we would not be there for

much more than a fortnight, but we stayed there, bored stiff, for

six weary months, while our comrades were disporting themselves

in the capital. That was a foretaste of the unpleasant duties

which fell to me as a supernumerary aide-de-camp. So ended the

year 1800, during which I had undergone so much mental and

physical suffering.

The town of Tours had many inhabitants, and there were many

diversions; but although I received many invitations I did not

accept any of them. Fortunately my time was fully occupied in

looking after the large collection of men and horses, without

which the isolation in which I lived would have been

insupportable. The number of horses belonging to the

commander-in-chief and the officers of his staff amounted to more

than eighty, and all were at my disposal. I rode two or three

every day, and went for some long rides round Tours, which

although solitary, had for me much charm, and gave me gentle

solace.

Chap. 15.

The First Consul now changed his mind about the army of Portugal.

He gave the command to his brother-in-law, General Leclerc, and

kept General Bernadotte in command of the army of the west. In

consequence, the general staff, which my brother and the other

aides-de-camp had just joined at Tours, was ordered to return to

Brittany and betake itself to Brest, where the commander-in-chief

was to be stationed. It is a long way from Tours to Brest, but

the weather was fair, we were a young crowd, and the trip was

great fun. I was unable to ride on horseback, because of an

accidental injury to my hindquarters, so I rode in one of the

commander-in-chief's coaches. We found him awaiting us at Brest.

The harbour at Brest held at that time not only a great number of

French vessels, but also the Spanish fleet, commanded by Admiral

Gravina, who was later killed at Trafalgar. When we arrived in

Brest, the two allied fleets were expected to take to Ireland,

General Bernadotte and a large invading force of French and

Spanish troops; but while we awaited this expedition,--which

never actually took place--the presence of so many army and naval

officers greatly animated the town of Brest. The

commander-in-chief, the admirals and several of the generals

entertained daily. The troops of the two nations mingled on the

best of terms, and I made the acquaintance of several Spanish

officers.

We were thoroughly enjoying ourselves at Brest, when the

commander-in-chief decided it would be a good idea to move his

headquarters to Rennes, a dismal town, but more in the centre of

his command. We had hardly arrived there when what I had foreseen

happened. The First Consul cut the number of aides-de-camp

allotted to the commander-in-chief. He was allowed only one

colonel, five officers of lower rank and no additional officers.

As a result I was told that I was to be posted to a regiment of

light cavalry. I would have resigned myself to this, if it had

been to return to the first Hussars, where I was known and whose

uniform I wore; but it was more than a year since I had left the

regiment, and I had been replaced, so I was ordered to join the

25th Chasseurs, who had just gone to Spain and were on the

frontier with Portugal around Salamanca and Zamora. I felt

increasingly bitter about the way I had been treated by General

Bernadotte, for without his false promises I would have been an

aide-de-camp to Messena and regained my place in the 1st Hussars.

So I was much discontented....But one must obey. Once I had got

over my resentment--which does not last long at that age--I could

not wait to get on the road and leave General Bernadotte, of whom

I thought I had good reason to complain. I had very little money.

My father had often lent money to Bernadotte, in particular when

he bought the estate of Lagrange; but although he knew that,

scarcely recovered from an injury, I was about to cross a large

part of France and all of Spain and, what is more, had to buy a

new uniform, he never offered to advance me a sou; and not for

anything in the world would I have asked him to do so. Very

luckily for me my mother had, at Rennes, an elderly uncle, M. de

Verdal of Gruniac, a former major in the infantry of Ponthievre,

with whom she had spent the first years of the revolution. This

old man was a little eccentric, but very good-hearted; not only

did he advance me the money which I desperately needed, but he

gave it to me out of his own pocket.

Although, at this period, the Chasseurs wore the same dolman as

the Hussars, theirs was green. I was foolish enough to shed a few

tears when I had to discard the Bercheny uniform, and renounce

the name of Hussar to become a Chasseur!

My farewell to General Bernadotte was somewhat cool; however he

gave me letters of introduction to Lucien Bonaparte, our

ambassador at Madrid, and to General Leclerc, our commander in

Portugal.

On the day of my departure, all the aides-de-camp joined me in a

farewell luncheon; then I set out with a heavy heart. I arrived

at Nantes after two days of travel, dog tired, with a pain in my

side, and quite sure that I would not be able to stand riding on

horseback the four hundred and fifty leagues which I had to cover

to reach the frontier of Portugal. By chance, however, I met in

the house of an old acquaintance from Soreze, who lived in

Nantes, a Spanish officer named Don Raphael, who was on his way

to join his regimental depot at Estramadura. We agreed to travel

together, and that I would be guide as far as the Pyrenees, after

which he would take over.

We went by stage-coach through the Vendee, where almost all the

market towns and villages still bore the marks of fire although

the civil war had been over for two years. These ruins made a

sorry spectacle. We passed through La Rochelle, Rochefort and

Bordeaux. From Bordeaux to Bayonne we rode in a sort of "Berlin"

which never went at faster than a walking pace over the sands of

Landes, so we often got out and walked alongside until we would

stop to rest under a group of pine trees. Then, sitting in the

shade, Don Raphael would take up his mandolin and sing. In this

way we took six days to reach Bayonne.

Before crossing the Pyrenees, I had to report to the general

commanding Bayonne. His name was General Ducos, an excellent man,

who had served under my father. Out of concern for my safety, he

wished to delay my entry into Spain for a few days, because he

had just heard that a gang of robbers had plundered some

travellers not far from the frontier. Even before the War of

Independence and the Civil Wars, the Spanish character, at once

both adventurous and lazy, had given them a noticeable taste for

brigandage, and this taste was encouraged by the splitting up of

the country into several kingdoms which once formed independent

states, each with its own laws, usages, and frontiers. Some of

these states imposed customs duties, some, such as Biscay and

Navarre, did not; and the result was that the inhabitants of the

customs-free countries constantly tried to smuggle dutiable goods

into those whose frontiers were guarded by lines of armed and

active customs officers. The smugglers, on their part, had, from

time immemorial, formed bands, which employed force when cunning

was insufficient, and whose occupation was not considered in any

way dishonourable by the majority of Spaniards, who saw it as a

just war against the imposition of customs. Preparing their

expeditions, collecting intelligence, posting armed guards,

hiding in the mountains, where they lie about smoking and

sleeping, such is the life of the smugglers, who, as a result of

the large profits to be made from a single operation, can live in

comfortable idleness for several months. However, when the

customs officers, with whom they have frequent skirmishes, have

been victorious and confiscated their goods, these Spanish

smugglers, reduced to extremes, think nothing of becoming

highwaymen, a profession which they pursue with a certain

magnanimity, since they never kill travellers, and always leave

them the means to continue their journey. They had just done as

much to an English family, and General Ducos, who wished to spare

us the disagreeable experience of being robbed, had for this

reason decided to delay our departure; but Don Raphael assured

him that he knew enough about the habits of Spanish robbers to be

certain that the safest time to travel in a province was just

after a gang had committed some offence, because they then

cleared off and hid for a while. So general Ducos allowed us to

leave.

Draught-horses were at this time unknown in Spain, where all

coaches, even the king's, were drawn by mules. There were no

stage-coaches, and in the post-houses nothing but saddle horses.

So that even the greatest of noblemen, who had their own coaches,

were forced when they travelled to hire harness mules and go by

short stages. The comfortably off took light carriages, which did

not go more than ten leagues a day. The ordinary people attached

themselves to caravanserais of donkey-men, who carried baggage in

the same way as our carters, but no one travelled alone, partly

for fear of robbers, and partly because of the mistrust with

which a solitary traveller was regarded. After our arrival in

Bayonne, Don Raphael, who was now in charge, said to me that as

we were not such grandees that we could hire a coach, nor so poor

that we had to join the donkey-men, there remained only two

possibilities, either we rode on horseback or we took a seat in a

carriage. Travelling on horseback, of which I have done so much,

did not seem suitable, as we would have no means of carrying our

baggage, so it was decided that we should go by carriage.

Don Raphael bargained with an individual who agreed to take us to

Salamanca for 800 francs a head, and to lodge us and feed us on

the way, at his own expense. This was double what a similar

journey would have cost in France, and I had already spent a lot

of money to get to Bayonne; but that was the price, and as there,

was no other way for me to join my new regiment, I had to accept.

We left in an enormous and ancient four-wheeled carriage, in

which three of the seats were occupied by a citizen of Cadiz, his

wife and daughter, while a Benedictine Prior from the university

of Salamanca completed the party.

Everything was new to me on this trip. Firstly, the harnessing,

which greatly surprised me. The team consisted of six splendid

mules, of which, to my astonishment, only the two on the shaft

had bridles and reins, the remaining four went freely, guided

only by the voices of the coachman and his "Zagal" who, agile as

a squirrel, sometimes went for more than a league on foot,

running beside his mules, which were at full trot, then, in a

blink of an eye he would climb up on to the seat beside his

master, only to get down and then up again; which he did twenty

times a day; going round the coach and the harness to make sure

that nothing was out of order, and while doing all this, singing

to encourage his mules, each one of which he called by name. He

never struck them, his voice alone being enough to urge on any

mule which was not pulling its weight.

These activities, and in particular the man's singing, I found

most entertaining. I also took a lively interest in what was said

in the coach, for, although I did not speak Spanish, what I knew

of Italian and Latin enabled me to understand much of what my

fellow passengers were saying, to whom I replied in French, which

they understood reasonably well. I did not smoke, but the five

Spaniards, even the two ladies and the monk, soon lit up their

cigars. We were all in good spirits. Don Raphael, the ladies, and

even the fat monk sang together.

Normally we left in the morning. We stopped from one o'clock to

three, to dine, rest the mules, and allow the heat of the day to

pass, during which time one slept; what the Spanish call the

siesta. Then we went on to our night stop. The meals were

sufficiently plentiful, but the Spanish cuisine seemed to me, at

first, to taste awful, however I got used to it; but I could

never have got used to the horrible beds which we were offered at

night in the pousadas or inns. They were really disgusting, and

Don Raphael, who had just spent a year in France was forced to

agree. To avoid this unpleasantness, on the first day of my

arrival in Spain, I asked if I could sleep on a bale of straw.

Sadly, I discovered that such a thing as a bale of straw was

unknown in Spain, because, instead of threshing the sheaves of

corn they have them trampled under foot by mules, which breaks

the straw into short bits, scarcely as long as a finger. But I

had the bright idea of filling a large cloth sack with this short

straw, which I placed in a barn and slept on covered by my cloak;

thus avoiding the vermin with which the beds and the rooms were

infested. In the morning I emptied the sack and put it in the

coach and each evening I refilled it so that I had a clean

palliasse. Don Raphael followed my example.

We crossed the provinces of Navarre, Biscay and Alava, country of

high mountains; then we crossed the Ebro and entered the immense

plains of Castile. We passed through Burgos and Valladolid, and

arrived, at last, after a journey lasting fifteen days, at

Salamanca.

There, not without regret I parted from my good travelling

companion, whom I was to meet once more in the same part of the

world, during the War of Independence. General Leclerc was at

Salamanca. He received me kindly, and even proposed that I should

stay with him as a supernumerary aide-de-camp, but my recent

experience had taught me that although the post of aide-de-camp

offers one more freedom and comfort than regimental duty, this is

only when one is on the establishment. As a supernumerary you are

landed with all the unpleasant jobs, and you have only a very

precarious position. I therefore turned down the favour which I

was offered and asked to go and join my regiment. It was a good

thing that I took this step, because, the following year, the

general, having been given the command of the expedition to Santa

Dominica, took with him, on his general staff, a lieutenant who

had accepted the post which I had turned down, and all these

officers and the general died of yellow fever.

I joined the 25th Chasseurs at Salamanca. The colonel was M.

Moreau, an old officer and a very fine fellow. He gave me a warm

welcome, as did my new comrades; and in a few days I was on the

best of terms with everybody. I was introduced to the town's

society, for at that time the presence of the French was highly

acceptable to the Spanish, and completely opposite to what it

became later. In 1801 we were their allies. We had come to fight

for them against the Portuguese and the English, so we were

treated as friends. The French officers were billeted with the

wealthiest inhabitants and there was competition to have them. We

were received everywhere. We were overwhelmed by invitations.

Being thus admitted into the family life of the Spaniards, we

learned more, in a short time, about their way of living than

officers who came to the peninsula during the War of Independence

could have learned in several years.

I was billeted in the home of a university professor, who had

given me a very nice room looking out onto the handsome Salamanca

square. My regimental duties were not very onerous and left me

plenty of leisure time, which I used to study the Spanish

language, which is, in my opinion, the most elegant and beautiful

in Europe. It was at Salamanca that I saw, for the first time,

the famous General Lasalle. He sold me a horse.

The fifteen thousand French troops sent to Spain with General

Leclerc formed the right wing of the Spanish Grand Army, which

was commanded by the "Prince de la Paix" and we were therefore

under his orders. This man (Emmanuel Godoy) was the queen's

favourite and was, in effect, the king. He came to revue us on

one occasion. He seemed to me to be very pleased with himself,

and although he was small and undistinguished looking, he was not

lacking in charm and ability.

Godoy started the army moving, and our regiment went to Toro and

then to Zamora. I was sorry to leave Salamanca at first, but we

were as well received in other towns, particularly in Zamora,

where I stayed in the house of a rich merchant who had a superb

garden, where a numerous society would gather in the evenings to

make music and pass part of the night in conversation amid groves

of pomegranates myrtles and lemon trees. It is difficult to

appreciate fully the beauties of nature if one has not

experienced the delicious nights of the southern countries.

We had, however, to tear ourselves away from the pleasant life

which we were leading to go and attack the Portuguese. We crossed

the border: there were a few small engagements which all went our

way: the French troops went to Viseu, while the Spanish came down

the Tagus and reached Alantejo: we expected to enter Lisbon soon,

as conquerors. But the Prince de la Paix, who had, without much

reflection, called the French troops into the peninsula, now,

also without much reflection, took fright at their presence, and

to get rid of them he concluded, without the knowledge of the

First Consul, a peace treaty with the Portuguese, which he

cunningly had ratified by the French ambassador, Lucien

Bonaparte. This greatly annoyed the First Consul, and caused,

from that day, a rift between the two brothers.

The French troops stayed for several months longer in Portugal,

until the beginning of 1802; then we returned to Spain and

successively to our previous charming stations of Zamora, Toro

and Salamanca, where we were always made welcome.

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