(except the person that gain’d the little dirty profit) were heartily
griev’d for it. It had a beauty that touch’d them far beyond those much
greater circles in _Abury_ town. The stones here were not large, set
pretty close together, the proportions of them with the intervals, and
the proportions between the two circles, all being taken at one view,
under the eye, charm’d them. The great stones of the great circles at
_Abury_ were not by them discern’d to stand in circles, nor would they
easily be persuaded of it. But these of the sanctuary they still talk
of with great pleasure and regret.
This _Overton-hill_, whereon was the elegant temple we are speaking of,
is a very pleasant place. ’Tis the southern end of that ridge call’d
the _Hakpen_, broken off by the river _Kennet_. All the water that
falls in that plain wherein the whole work of _Abury_ stands, descends
this way. It is a round knoll with a gentle declivity to the east,
west, and south. The _Kennet_, as it were, licks its feet on all those
sides. The whole hill has its name from this end.
To our name of _Hakpen_ alludes אחים _ochim_ call’d _doleful creatures_
in our translation, _Isaiah_ xiii. 21. speaking of the desolation
of _Babylon_, “Wild beasts of the desert shall lie there, and their
houses shall be full of _ochim_, and owls shall dwell there, and satyrs
shall dance there.” St. _Jerom_ translates it serpents. The _Arabians_
call a serpent, _Haie_; and wood-serpents, _Hageshin_; and thence our
_Hakpen_; _Pen_ is _head_ in _british_.
עכן _acan_ in the _chaldee_ signifies a _serpent_, and _hak_ is no
other than _snake_; the spirit in the pronunciation being naturally
degenerated into a sibilation, as is often the case, and in this
sibilating animal more easily. So _super_ from υπερ, _sylva_ from υλη,
_sudor_, υδωρ. So our word _snap_ comes from the _gallic_ _happer_,
a _snacot_ fish from the _latin_ _acus_, _aculeatus piscis_. And in
_Yorkshire_ they call snakes _hags_, and _hag-worms_. Vide _Fuller’s
Misc._ IV. 15.
The temple that stood here was intended for the head of the snake in
the huge picture; and at a distance, when seen in perspective, it very
aptly does it. It consisted of two concentric ovals, not much different
from circles, their longest diameter being east and west. By the best
intelligence I could obtain from the ruins of it, the outer circle
was 80 and 90 cubits in diameter, the medium being 85, 146 feet. It
consisted of 40 stones, whereof 18 remained, left by farmer _Green_;
but 3 standing. The inner circle was 26 and 30 cubits diameter, equal
to the interval between circle and circle.
The stones were 18 in number, somewhat bigger than of the outer circle,
but all carried off by _Green_ aforesaid. Every body here remembers
both circles entire, and standing, except two or three fallen.
Mr. _Aubury_, in his manuscript notes printed with _Camden_’s
_Britannia_, mentions it, “a double circle of stones, four or five
feet high, tho’ many are now fallen down. The diameter of the outer
circle 40 yards, and of the inner 15. He speaks of the avenue coming
up to it, as likewise of our before-describ’d avenue, from _Abury_ to
_West-Kennet_, set with large stones. One side, he says, is very nearly
entire, the other side wants a great many.” He did not see that ’tis
but one avenue from _Abury_ to _Overton-hill_, having no apprehension
of the double curve it makes. And he erred in saying there was a
circular ditch on _Overton-hill_.
The view here is extensive and beautiful. Down the river eastward we
see _Marlborough_, and the whole course of the _Roman_ road hence going
along _Clatford-bottom_. We see a good way in the road to _Ambresbury_,
and the gap of the _Wansdike_, where we pass thro’. Thence the
_Wansdike_ skims the edge of all the hill tops to _Runway-hill_. There
we enter upon the view presented in plate XXI. The _Roman_ road runs
upon the edge of the hill, on the right hand of that plate, between
the barrows there. It descends the hill, and runs to the left hand of
_Silbury_, and close by it; and then up _Runway-hill_. Next we see
_Oldbury_ camp, over _West-Kennet_ village. Then we may view the whole
length of the avenue hence to _Abury_, and observe the two great curves
it makes, to imitate the figure of a snake, as drawn in the ancient
hieroglyphics. Coming from _Abury_ town it curves to the right-hand
or eastward, then winds as much to the west, till it ascends this
_Overton-hill_, full east.
[Illustration:
TAB. XVII.
_A View of the_ South Temple _July 15 1723._]
I observed the breadth of the avenue here is narrower than elsewhere,
as being the neck of the snake. ’Tis 45 feet or 26 cubits, equal
to the diameter of the inner circle here. And as it is narrower
than elsewhere, they made the side-distance between stone and stone
proportional, being two thirds of that in breadth. Mr. _Smith_,
living here, informed me, that when he was a school-boy, the _Kennet_
avenue was entire, from end to end. _Silbury-hill_ answers the avenue
directly, as it enters this temple, being full west hence. Here is a
great number of barrows in sight from this place, two close by; and a
little north-eastward that chain of barrows design’d in plate XXIX. the
lower part, looking toward _Marlborough_. Human bones found in digging
a little ditch by the temple, across some small barrows there, and
where there were no barrows. Mr. _Aubury_ says, sharp and form’d flints
were found among them; arguments of great antiquity. They were of the
lower class of _Britons_, that were not at the charge of a _tumulus_.
Thus we have conducted one half, the forepart of the snake, in this
mighty work, up to _Overton-hill_, where it reposed its bulky head, and
not long ago made a most beautiful appearance. I happen’d to frequent
this place in the very point of time, when there was a possibility
just left, of preserving the memory of it. In order to do it, I have
laid down the groundplot thereof in plate XX. just as I found it for
three years together, before it was demolish’d. I found that a line
drawn between _Overton-mill_ and the entrance of _Kennet_ avenue in
_Abury_ town, is the ground-line of this avenue, from which it makes
two vast curves contrary ways, to imitate the winding of a snake, and
the hieroglyphic figures we see on _Egyptian_ and other monuments.
From _Overton-mill_ is a most glorious prospect, overlooking the whole
extent of _Abury_ temple, and the sacred field it stands in, and beyond
that, into _Gloucestershire_ and _Somersetshire_.
_Explicat hinc tellus campos effusa patentes,
Vix oculo prendente modum_—— Lucan IV.
As we descend _Overton-hill_ by the neck of the snake, we discern the
main part of the track of this avenue between here and _Abury_ town,
and may observe its huge curves both ways. And when we are near entring
_Abury_ town again, upon mounting the hill by the hedge-corner, at
about eighteen intervals of stones from the _vallum_, you see a most
advantageous prospect or approach to the temple, partly represented in
plate XVIII. _Windmill-hill_, with its easy acclivity, fronting you
directly, the northern end of _Hakpen_ on the right and _Cherill-hill_
on the left closing the horizon like scenes at a theater.
I observed many of these studied opportunities in this work, of
introducing the ground and prospects, to render it more picture-like.
_Pausanias in Bœotic._ writes, that in the way from _Thebes_ to
_Glisas_, is a space fenc’d round with select stones, which the
_Thebans_ call the _snake’s head_. And they tell a silly story about
it, of a snake putting his head out of a hole there, which _Tiresius_
struck with his sword. Just by it, he says, is a hill call’d the
_supreme_, and a temple to _Jupiter the supreme_, and the brook
_Thermodon_ runs under it.
Can we doubt but this was an ancient temple, like what we are
describing? It was built by _Cadmus_, or some of his people, of whom we
shall talk more in chapter XIV.
I conclude this account with a verse of the poet’s, which I believe was
upon a work of the very same nature, as we shall explain by and by.
_Quod caput antè fuit, summo est in monte cacumen,
Ossa lapis fiunt_—— Ovid. Met. IV.
CHAP. VIII.
_A description of the other great avenue from_ Bekamton, _a mile
off, which is the hinderpart of the snake, proceeding from the
circle. The cove on the midway of it call’d_ Longstones, _or the_
Devil’s coits. _The avenue terminated in a valley. Some animal
bones found in a stone, whence a conjecture concerning their age.
Of the number of the stones._ Solomon’_s temple compared with
ours. The mechanicks of the Druids called magick. Of the effect
of the weather upon the stones._
After I had carefully laid down the plan of _Kennet_ avenue, and not
understanding the full purport of it; in the year 1722, I found out
this other, extending itself above a mile from the town of _Abury_, by
another direction. It goes toward the village of _Bekamton_, therefore
I call it _Bekamton_ avenue. ’Tis really the hinderpart of the
hieroglyphic snake, which the Druids meant here to picture out, in this
most portentous size.
The former avenue goes out of _Abury_ town at the south-east point;
this full west, at the interval of 25 stones, or a quadrant of the
great circle from _Kennet_ avenue, and proceeds by the south side of
the churchyard. Two stones lie by the parsonage-gate on the right hand.
Those opposite to them on the left hand, in a pasture, were taken
away 1702, as mark’d in the ground-plot of _Abury_. _Reuben Horsal_
remembers three standing in the pasture. One now lies in the floor of
the house in the churchyard. A little farther, one lies at the corner
of the next house, on the right hand, by the lane turning off to the
right, to the bridge. Another was broke in pieces to build that house
with, _anno_ 1714. Two more lie on the left hand, opposite. It then
passes the beck, south of the bridge. Most of the stones hereabouts
have been made use of about the bridge, and the causeway leading to it.
A little spring arises at _Horslip_ north-west, and so runs by here to
_Silbury-hill_, where the real head of the _Kennet_ is. But sometimes
by a sudden descent of rain coming from _Monkton_ and _Broad-Hinton_,
this is very deep. The picture here humours the reality so far, as this
may be call’d the vent of the snake.
Now the avenue passes along a lane to the left hand of the _Caln_
road, by a stone house call’d _Goldsmiths_-farm, and so thro’ farmer
_Griffin_’s yard, thro’ one barn that stands across the avenue, then
by another which stands on its direction. Two stones and their
opposites still lie in the foundation; immediately after this, it
enters the open plow’d fields; the _Caln_ road running all this while
north of it. If we look back and observe the bearings of _Abury_
steeple, and other objects, a discerning eye finds, that it makes
a great sweep or curve northwards. The avenue entring the open
corn-fields, runs for some time by the hedge, on the right hand. When
it has cross’d the way leading from _South-street_, we discern here
and there the remains of it, in its road to _Longstone_ cove. Farmer
_Griffin_ broke near 20 of the stones of this part of the avenue.
[Illustration:
TAB. XVIII.
_Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._
_The Entrance of_ Kennet avenue _into_ Abury _14. May 1724._]
This _Longstone_ cove, vulgarly call’d long stones, is properly a cove,
as the old _Britons_ call’d ’em, compos’d of three stones, like that
most magnificent one we described, in the center of the northern temple
at _Abury_; behind the inn. They are set upon the ark of a circle,
regarding each other with an obtuse angle. This is set on the north
side of the avenue; one of the stones of that side makes the back of
the cove. This is the only particularity in which this avenue differs
from the former. I take it to be chiefly a judicious affectation of
variety, and serv’d as a _sacellum_ or _proseucha_ to the neighbourhood
on ordinary days of devotion, _viz._ the sabbath-days. For if the
Druids came hither in _Abraham_’s time, and were disciples of his, as
it appears to me; we cannot doubt of their observance of the sabbath.
It stands on the midway of the length of the avenue, being the fiftieth
stone. This opens to the south-east, as that of the northern temple
to the north-east. ’Tis placed upon an eminence, the highest ground
which the avenue passes over: these are call’d _Longstone_-fields from
it. You have a good prospect hence, seeing _Abury_ toward which the
ground descends to the brook: _Overton-hill_, _Silbury_, _Bekamton_;
and a fine country all around. Many stones by the way are just buried
under the surface of the earth. Many lie in the balks and meres, and
many fragments are remov’d, to make boundaries for the fields; but more
whole ones have been burnt to build withal, within every body’s memory.
One stone still remains standing, near _Longstone_ cove.
_Longstone_ cove, because standing in the open fields, between the
_Caln_ road and that to the _Bath_, is more talk’d of by the people of
this country, than the larger, and more numerous in _Abury_ town. Dr.
_Musgrave_ mentions it in his _Belgium Britannicum_, page 44. and in
his map thereof.
Mr. _Aubury_ in his manuscript observations publish’d with Mr.
_Camden_’s _Britannia_, speaks of them by the name of the _Devil’s
coits_. Three huge stones then standing. It was really a grand and
noble work. The stone left standing is 16 feet high, as many broad,
3½ thick. The back stone is fallen flat on the ground, of like
dimension.
——_annis solvit sublapsa vetustas:
Fertur in abruptum magnus mons_—— Virg. Æn. 12.
The other was carried off by that destroyer _Richard Fowler_, together
with many more, but seven years ago (when I was there). The people
that saw it broken in pieces by fire, assured me there were perfect
flints in its composition and bones. And I verily believe I saw a piece
of this same stone in a garden-wall of the little alehouse below in
_Bekamton_-road, which had evidently a bone in it. Whence probably we
may conclude, that these stones were form’d by nature since _Noah_’s
deluge, and these bones are of an antediluvian animal, which casually
fell into the petrifying matter. They told me the stone contain’d 20
good loads, that the bones were in the middle of the stone, and as hard
as the stone. That stone now standing, was the right hand or eastern
jamb of the cove.
A little way hence is a bit of heath-ground, but the plough will soon
have devoured it. Here remains a great barrow, call’d _Longstone long
barrow_; and from hence we see innumerable more barrows. The avenue
continu’d its journey by the corn fields. Three stones lie still by
the field-road coming from _South-street_ to the _Caln_-road. Mr.
_Alexander_ told me he remember’d several stones standing by the
parting of the roads under _Bekamton_, demolish’d by _Richard Fowler_.
Then it descends by the road to _Cherill_, ’till it comes to the
_Bath_-road, close by the _Roman_-road, and there in the low valley it
terminates, near a fine group of barrows, under _Cherill-hill_, in the
way to _Oldbury-camp_; this is west of _Bekamton_-village. This point
facing that group of barrows and looking up the hill is a most solemn
and awful place; a descent all the way from _Longstone_ cove, and
directed to a descent, a great way further, down the _Bath_-road, where
no less than five valleys meet. And in this very point only you can see
the temple on _Overton-hill_, on the south side of _Silbury-hill_.
Here I am sufficiently satisfied this avenue terminated, at the like
distance from _Abury_-town, as _Overton-hill_ was, in the former
avenue; 100 stones on a side, 4000 cubits in length; ten _stadia_
or the eastern mile. Several stones are left dispersedly on banks
and meres of the lands. One great stone belonging to this end of the
avenue, lies buried almost under ground, in the plow’d land between the
barrow west of _Longstone_ long barrow, and the last hedge in the town
of _Bekamton_. _Richard Fowler_ shew’d me the ground here, whence he
took several stones and demolish’d them. I am equally satisfied there
was no temple or circle of stones at this end of it. 1. Because it
would be absurd in drawing. The head of the snake was aptly represented
by that double circle on _Overton-hill_: but this place, the tail of
the snake, admitted no such thing, and I doubt not but it grew narrower
and narrower as before we observed, of the neck of the snake. 2. Here
is not the least report of such a thing among the country people.
It would most assuredly have been well known, because every stone
was demolish’d within memory, when I was there. I cannot doubt but
many have suffered since; and I have had very disagreeable accounts
thereof sent to me. I apprehend this end of the avenue drew narrower
in imitation of the tail of a snake, and that one stone stood in the
middle of the end, by way of close. This I infer from the manner of the
end of that avenue of the Druid temple at _Classerness_; which I take
to be the tail of a snake. Of which hereafter.
For a more mathematical determination of this end of the avenue, see
Chap X. at the end.
The avenue took another circular sweep of a contrary manner, as it
descended from _Longstone_ cove, bending southward.
————_pars cætera campum
Ponè legit, sinuatque immensa volumine terga_.
as _Virgil_ writes of this creature, _Æneid_ II.
And it went over variety of elevations and depressures as the other of
_Kennet_ avenue; but that terminated on a hill, as this in a valley.
With great judgment, they thus laid out the ground, to make the whole
more picture-like.
[Illustration:
TAB. XIX.
_Stukeley delin._ _Toms Sculp._
_Continuation of Kennet avenue 24. May 1724._]
_Bekamton_-village lies very low, at the bottom of a valley subject to
inundations, and the ground is springy: they can’t make cellars there:
whereas _Abury_ is very dry, and their wells deep.
There are many barrows on the south downs, between St. _Anne’s-hill_
and _Bekamton_, which chiefly regard this avenue. Many as we go up to
the _Roman_ camp of _Oldbury_, and in _Yatesbury_-field. And pretty
near the termination, in the valley of _Bekamton_ under _Cherill-hill_,
is a group or line of half a score of very different forms, which
make a pretty appearance. So the valley along the present road from
_Bekamton_ to the _Devizes_ and _Bath_, is full of barrows on both
sides; all regarding this part of the sacred work, the tail of the
snake.
I am confident, the reader by this time has conceiv’d a just notion
of this wonderful work, which we have describ’d with as much brevity
as possible; and at the same time he will resent its fate, that a few
miserable farmers should, within the space of 20 years, destroy this
the noblest monument, which is probably on the face of the globe;
which has stood so many ages, and was made to stand as many more. The
grandeur of the work has render’d it altogether unnecessary to add any
heightning, or any flourishes. I leave it as an out-line of the most
masterly hand, a picture that requires no colouring.
Concerning the forms of the religious performances here, I can say
but little, more than that I see nothing, but what appears to be in
the ancient patriarchal mode, before cover’d temples were introduc’d
in the world; the æra of which time, I am fully convinc’d, was that
of the _Mosaick_ tabernacle. We may well assert this to be ancienter
than that time; as the largest, so probably one of the most ancient
in the _Britannic_ isles. The Druids were tempted to make this work
here, by the appearance of the stones on the downs, on the other
side of _Hakpen-hill_, call’d the gray weathers. Finding the ground
all overspread with these enormous masses, they had no difficulty in
resolving, and they made none in putting their resolution in execution;
in conveying 650 of the choicest of them, to make this notable temple.
Thus we cast up the number.
The outer circle of _Abury_ town 100
The outer circle of the northern temple 030
The inner circle 012
The cove 003
The outer circle of the southern temple 030
The inner circle 012
The ambre or central obelisc 001
The ring stone 001
The avenue of _Kennet_ 200
The outer circle of _Hakpen_ 040
The inner 018
The avenue of _Bekamton_ 200
_Longstone_ cove jambs 002
The inclosing stone of the serpent’s tail 001
————
650
The square of _Solomon_’s temple was 700 cubits; the diameter of
_Abury_ is 800. But _Abury_, in square content, is to _Solomon_’s
temple as 50 to 49. If we take into the account the _vallum_ of
_Abury_, we find this would hold incomparably more people than the
other, as spectators or assistants. An hundred oxen in sacrifice
was an hecatomb. Twenty two thousand were offered by _Solomon_ at
the dedication, beside other animals. Three times in the year the
whole nation of _Israel_ assembled there, to pay their devotions and
sacrifices, the aboriginal covenant made between God and man, in order
to obtain favour and pardon. For ought we know, there might be as many
here, and on the same account. I believe their most common times of
these extraordinary religious meetings were on the four quarters of the
year, the equinoxes and solstices.
We may well wonder how these people could bring together so many of
these great stones, and set them up so exactly. The stones they had not
far to fetch, only from the other side of the _Hakpen_, from the gray
weathers. Their vicinity, their lying on the surface of the ground,
the soil here being solid chalk, was the great inducement for the
Druids, in these most early ages, to build this temple. The manner of
their mechanics, which undoubtedly was very simple, must be equally
surprizing. I apprehend, they brought the stones upon strong carriages,
and drew them by men. For even in _Cæsar_’s time, there was an infinite
multitude of people. Their manner of raising the stones seems to have
been with tall trees, us’d for leavers, and no doubt very artfully
apply’d. The method of fixing these enormous blocks of stone was, to
dig a hole in the solid chalk, and ram the foundation of it in, with
lesser stones, flints, and coggles, very artfully. They are not let in
above two feet and a half deep. And the country being all a solid bed
of chalk, was another reason why here, as at _Stonehenge_, they chose
it for this extraordinary building. The conducting and rightly managing
an immense number of hands, the providing for their maintenance, was a
matter of wisdom and great authority. The marvellous effect produced,
might well establish the glory of the Druids of _Britain_, which
echoed across the ocean, and very much favour’d the opinion mankind
had conceiv’d of their practising magick. For magick is nothing else
but the science that teaches us to perform wonderful and surprizing
things, in the later acceptation of the word. And in very many ages
after the Druid times, mankind had the same notion, and the vulgar
have to this day, concerning these works. And most probably from them
sprung the character, which _Pliny_ gives of our _british_ Druids
practising magic, and being so great proficients therein, as to equal
the _persian_ and _chaldean magi_, “so that one would even think,” says
he, “the Druids had taught it them.”
I judge it much more probable, the Druids learn’d it from them, at
least they both derive it from the same original fountain. And whatever
they might practise of real magic, the notion of mankind concerning
them, receiv’d strength from the name _magi_, which they might bring
with them from the east. _Magus_ there originally signifies no more
than a _priest_, or person who officiates in sacreds. The word comes
from _maaghim meditabundi_, people of a contemplative, retir’d life;
whom more commonly in the west, they call’d Druids. I am not dubious
in thinking the times we are talking of, when this temple of _Abury_
was built, are of the extremest antiquity, near that of _Abraham_. I
was very often on the spot, furnish’d with what I thought a convincing
argument, from considering the wear of the weather, what effect it had
upon these stones of a very firm texture, a kind of gray marble. And
thus my reasoning was founded.