vast bulk, 21 feet long, and 8 feet 9 inches diameter; when standing,
higher than the rest. This is what the scripture calls a pillar, or
standing image, _Levit._ xxvi. 1. These works, erected in the land of
_Canaan_ by the same people, the _Phœnicians_, as erected ours, were
ordered to be demolished by the _Israelites_, because at that time
perverted to idolatry. All the stones, our whole temple, were called
_ambres_, even by our _phœnician_ founders; but this particularly. The
_Egyptians_ by that name call’d their obeliscs; which _Kircher_ did not
rightly understand, interpreting it to be sacred books; but meaning
_petræ ambrosiæ_, _main ambres in celtic, anointed, consecrated stone_;
_Manah_, the name of a great stone of this sort which the _Arabians_
worshipped. They were called likewise, _gabal_, and the present word
_kibla_ or _kebla_ comes from it, but in a larger sense. _Elagabalus_
is hence deriv’d after they turn’d these _kiblas_ into real deities. It
means the _god obelisc_; and hence our _english_ words, _gable end_
of a house, _javelin_ or _roman pile_, and _gaveloc_ a _sharp iron bar_.
[Illustration:
TAB. XIII.
A View of the Remains of the Northern Temple at Abury. Aug. 1722.
_Stukeley del._
A. _Abury Steeple._ B. _the cove._ C. _Windmill hill._]
Exactly in the southern end of the line that connects the two centers
of these temples, _viz._ in that pasture mark’d IX. in our ground-plot,
is an odd stone standing, not of great bulk. It has a hole wrought
in it, and probably was design’d to fasten the victim, in order for
slaying it. This I call the _ring-stone_. From this we may infer the
like use of that stone at _Stonehenge_, in the avenue near the entrance
into the area of the temple. I spoke of it under the name of _crwm
leche_, p. 33. It has a like hole in it.
These two temples were all that was standing originally in the great
area, within the circular colonnade. Very probably it was the most
magnificent patriarchal temple in the world. Now a whole village of
about thirty houses is built within it. This area would hold an immense
number of people at their panegyres and public festivals; and when
the _vallum_ all around was cover’d with spectators, it form’d a most
noble amphitheater, and had an appearance extremely august, during the
administration of religious offices.
————_ter denas curia vaccas
Accipit, & largo sparsa cruore madet._ Ovid. fast. IV.
Each of these temples is four times as big as _Stonehenge_.
About 1694, _Walter Stretch_, father of one of the present inhabitants,
found out the way of demolishing these stones by fire. He exercis’d
this at first on one of the stones standing in the street before the
inn, belonging to the outer circle of the southern temple. That one
stone, containing 20 loads, built the dining-room end of the inn.
Since then _Tom Robinson_, another _Herostratus_ of the place, made
cruel havock among them. He own’d to us, that two of them cost eight
pounds in the execution. Farmer _Green_ ruin’d many of the southern
temple to build his houses and walls at _Bekamton_. Since then many
others have occasionally practis’d the sacrilegious method, and most
of the houses, walls, and outhouses in the town are raised from these
materials. Sir _Robert Holford_ resented this destruction of them; and
_Reuben Horsall_, parish-clerk, had a due veneration for these sacred
remains, and assisted me in the best intelligence he was able to give.
Concerning the purport of the disposition and manner of the temple
hitherto described, I shall speak more largely in chap. X. toward
the end, concluding this with an inscription of the _Triopian_ farm
consecrated by _Herodes Atticus_.
_Ne cuiquam glebam, saxumve impune movere
Ulli sit licitum. Parcarum namque severæ
Pœnæ instant: siquis sacra scelus edat in æde.
Finitimi agricolæ, & vicini attendite cuncti,
Hic fundus sacer est; immotaque jura deorum._
CHAP. VI.
_Concerning antiquities found about this place; with a more
particular chorography of the country around. Description of
the_ roman _road here, via_ Badonica. _A plain demonstration
that these works we are writing upon, are older than the_ roman
_times. Another like demonstration. Of_ Divitiacus, _of the
british_ Belgæ, _who made the wansdike. A Druid axe or celt,
found under one of the stones in_ Abury. _Burnt bucks-horns,
charcoal, and the like._
Several _Roman_ coins have from time to time been found here, and in
the neighbouring fields. A mile off goes the _roman_ way, which I have
described in my _Itinerary_, p. 132. call’d _Via Badonica_, being the
way from _London_ to _Bath_. It comes from _Marlborough Cunetio_,
crosses the _Hakpen-hill_ by _Overton-hill_, quite over the neck of
the snake belonging to our temple, goes close by _Silbury-hill_,
thro’ _Bekamton-fields_; then, a little southward of the tail of the
snake, ascends _Runway-hill_, up the heath, where ’tis very plain,
just as the _Romans_ left it. Plate IX. exhibits a view of it from the
present road to _Bath_ and _Devizes_, and at the same time affords us a
demonstration that our Druid antiquities, which we are here describing,
are prior in time to these works of the _Romans_. This way is not
compos’d, as they generally are, of materials fetch’d from a distance,
made into a high bank, but only a small ridge of chalk dug up all along
close by. We discern upon the heath the little pits or cavities, on
both sides, whence it was taken to make the ridge of the road. For this
road is not finished, though mentioned in _Antoninus’s itinerary_,
journey XIV, only chalk’d out, as we may properly say. Moreover, the
workmen for readiness, have par’d off above half of a sepulchral barrow
on the right hand, of a very finely turn’d bell-like form, to make use
of the earth; and there is a discontinuance of the line of the little
cavities there for some time, till it was not worth while any longer
to fetch materials from it. And on the left hand they have made two
of their little pits or cavities within the ditch of a Druid’s barrow
(as I call them) and quite dug away the prominent part of the barrow,
consisting of a little tump over the urn, inclos’d with the circular
ditch of a much larger dimension. This observation is of a like nature
with that of Plate IV. of _Stonehenge_. It must be noted, that this
_roman_ road here, being mark’d out only; I suppose it was done toward
the declension of their empire here, when they found not time to finish
it.
I could well enough discern from which point the _roman_ workmen
carry’d this way, by observing the discontinuity of these little pits,
on account of the materials they took from the larger barrow, _viz._
from _Cunetio Marlborough_, to _Verlucio Hedington_, and so to _Bath_.
This road, as it goes farther on, and passes to the other side of
_Runway-hill_ (_Roman-way hill_) gives us two other remarkable
appearances, both which are seen in Plate X. which I have repeated
again in this book, to which it more properly belongs. It serves
to rectify our notions concerning the high antiquity of the temple we
are writing upon. 1. We discern the artifice of the _roman_ workmen,
in conducing their road along the precipicious side of this hill, and
preserving at the same time the straight line, as much as may be. 2.
We see a part of the famous _Wansdike_, or boundary of the _belgic_
kingdom in _Britain_, drawn under their king _Divitiacus_, spoken of
by _Cæsar_ in his _commentaries_. He built the neighbouring town, the
_Devizes_, so call’d from his name, and most probably the city of his
residence. I treated of this matter in _Stonehenge_. 3. We may remark
the union of the _roman_ road and _Wansdike_, for some space, and a
proof that _Wansdike_ was made before this _roman_ road, because the
bank of the dike is thrown in, in order to form the road. _Cæsar_ says,
this _Divitiacus_, king of the _Suessions_ in _Gaul_, lived an age
before him.
[Illustration:
TAB. XIV.
Prospect of the Cove Abury _10 July 1723_.
_Stukeley del._]
At the bottom of this hill is _Hedington_, another _roman_ town, call’d
_Verlucio_. _Calne_, less than five mile off _Abury_, was a _roman_
town too, where many _roman_ coins are found. Several of them I saw.
Hence, the _romans_ being very frequent in this country, ’tis no wonder
their coins are found about _Abury_. I think I may well be excus’d from
entering into a formal argumentation to prove that we must not hence
gather, the _Romans_ were founders of _Abury_. In my own opinion, who
have duly consider’d these affairs, the temple of the Druids here is
as much older than the _roman_ times, as since the _Romans_ to our own
time.
Return we down _Runway-hill_, and contemplate that most agreeable
prospect, of which I have given a faint representation in Plate XI. We
see here the whole course of this _Via Badonica_ hence, in a straight
line to _Marlborough_, by _Silbury-hill_, the great tomb of the founder
of _Abury_. I saw several _roman_ coins found about this road on
_Overton-hill_, near the _white-hart_ alehouse. On the left hand is the
strong _roman_ camp of _Oldbury_. Every where we behold great numbers
of the barrows of the old _Britons_, regarding the temple of _Abury_.
On the right hand we may discern a vast length of the _Wansdike_,
carried along the northern edge of the high range of hills parting
north and south _Wiltshire_. Below is a pretty work like a _roman_
camp, cut in the fine turf. It should seem to be somewhat belonging to
the Druids, of which afterwards.
Beside some _roman_ coins accidentally found in and about _Abury_, I
was inform’d of a square bit of iron taken up under one of the great
stones, upon pulling it down. I could not learn particularly what it
was, tho’ no doubt it belonged to the _British_ founders. They found
likewise a brass ax-head, under an ash-tree dug up near the smith’s
shop by the church. I understood, by the description they gave of
it, it was one of those Druid axes or instruments call’d _Celts_,
wherewith they cut the misletoe, fastening it occasionally on the end
of the staff, which they commonly carry’d in their hands, one of the
_insignia_ of their office, as a pastoral staff of bishops.
When the lord _Stowell_, who own’d the manor of _Abury_, levell’d the
_vallum_ on that side of the town next the church, where the barn now
stands, the workmen came to the original surface of the ground, which
was easily discernible by a black _stratum_ of mold upon the chalk.
Here they found large quantities of bucks’ horns, bones, oyster-shells,
and wood coals. The old man who was employ’d in the work says, there
was the quantity of a cart-load of the horns, that they were very
rotten, that there were very many burnt bones among them.
They were remains of the sacrifices that had been perform’d here;
probably before the temple was quite finish’d, and the ditch made.
These are all the antiquities I could learn to have been found in and
about the town of _Abury_.
CHAP. VII.
_A description of the great avenue from_ West-Kennet, _a mile off,
which is the forepart of the snake proceeding from the circle.
Observations on the_ vallum _and ditch. On the proportion between
the breadth of the avenue and the side interval of the stones.
The avenue broader in that part, which is the belly of the snake,
than the neck. Its whole length ten stadia of the ancients;
4000 cubits, an eastern mile. The_ Hakpen _an oriental word,
signifying the_ snake’s head. _The temple on_ Overton-hill. _Such
another temple described by_ Pausanias _in_ Bœotia, _called the_
snake’s head.
The Druids, by throwing outwards the earth dug out of the huge circular
ditch environing the town, demonstrated to all comers at first sight,
that this was a place of religion, not a camp or castle of defence.
They prevented its ever being us’d as such, which must have ruin’d
their sacred design. Moreover it adds to the solemnity of the place; it
gives an opportunity for a greater number of people to assist at the
offices of religion.
This further great convenience attends the disposition of ditch and
_vallum_, that the water falls off the _area_ every way, and keeps it
dry, which provides for the stability of their work, and convenience
of the priests in their ministry. I observ’d the earth that composes
the _vallum_ was laid a small distance from the verge of the ditch, so
as to leave a parapet or narrow walk between. This was as the _podium_
of an amphitheater, for the lower tire of spectators. The ditch and
rampart are each 60 feet, or 35 cubits broad. And now the whole is
an agreeable terrace-walk round the town, with a pleasant view upon
sometimes corn-fields, sometimes heath; the hill-tops every where
cover’d with barrows; and that amazing artificial heap of earth call’d
_Silbury-hill_ in sight. The great _belgic_ rampart, the _Wansdike_,
licks all the southern horizon, as far as you can see it, crowning
the upper edge of that range of hills parting _north_ and _south
Wiltshire_. Part of this pleasant prospect I have given in plate XXIII,
as seen from _Abury_ church-steeple.
Let us then walk out of the confines of the temple properly, by the
southern entrance of the town. Passing the _vallum_, the road straight
forwards leads to _Kennet_ and _Overton_, that on the right hand to
the _Bath_. But our present way lies straight forwards, which is
south-eastward, and may properly enough be call’d _Via sacra_, as being
an avenue up to the temple; besides, it forms one half of the body
of the snake, issuing out of the circle. There were but two gates or
entrances into the temple originally; this was one. And this way I call
_Kennet-avenue_.
[Illustration:
TAB. XV.
_View of the Cell of the Celtic Temple at Abury. Augˢᵗ: 16. 1721._
_The Cove of the Northern temple._
_Stukeley Del._]
By repeated mensurations, by careful attention and observations, by
frequently walking along the whole track thereof, from one end to
the other, I found out its purpose, its extent, the number of stones
it is compos’d of, and the measures of their intervals. It extends
itself from this southern entrance of _Abury_ town to _Overton-hill_,
overhanging the village of _West-Kennet_. _There_ was another double
circle of stones, which made the head of the snake. All the way between
there, and this southern entrance, which is above a mile, was set with
stones on each hand, opposite to one another, and at regular distances.
This was the avenue, and form’d the forepart of the snake.
The Druids, in laying down this design, that it might produce a
magnificent effect suitable to so great and operose a work, studied the
thing well. As this was to be a huge picture or representation of an
animal, they purposed to follow nature’s drawing, as far as possible. A
snake’s body has some variation in its thickness, as slenderer toward
the neck, than at its middle. This the Druids imitated in making the
avenue broader toward this southern entrance of _Abury_; and drawing
it narrower as it approached _Overton-hill_. Again, when a snake is
represented in its sinuous motion, the intervals of the stones sideways
must have a variation, as set in the inner or the outer curve; so as to
make them stand regularly opposite to one another: yet this necessarily
makes some little difference in the intervals, and this too is properly
regarded in the work.
The whole length of this avenue consists of a hundred stones on each
side, reaching from the _vallum_ of _Abury_ town, to the circular
work on _Overton-hill_. Measuring the breadth of it in several places
where I had an opportunity of two opposite stones being left, I
found a difference; and the like by measuring the interval of stones
sideways; yet there was the same proportion preserved between breadth
and interval; which I found to be as two to three. So that here by
_Abury_-town, in a part that represented the belly of the snake, the
breadth of the avenue was 34 cubits, 56 feet and a half, and the
intervals of the stones sideways 50 cubits, the proportion of two
to three; twice 17 being 34, thrice 17 50. These 34 cubits take in
the intire space of two intervals of the stones of the outer great
circle of the temple of _Abury_ within the ditch, together with the
intermediate stone, which is the entry of the avenue to the temple.
A most ancient manner, a double door with a pillar in the middle.
Such was that of the _Mosaick_ tabernacle: and such very often of
our cathedrals. When we mount up _Overton-hill_, the avenue grows
much narrower. And this observation help’d me in the discovery of the
purport and design of the whole figure of the snake; and in the nature
of the scheme thereof. Of which wonderful work we may well say with the
poet; elsewhere,
_Nec rapit immensos orbes per humum, neque tanto
[Saxeus] in spiram tractu se colligit anguis._ Virg. Geor. 2.
When I abode here for some time on purpose, for several summers
together; I was very careful in tracing it out, knew the distinct
number of each stone remaining, and where every one stood that was
wanting; which often surpriz’d the country people, who remembred them
left on the ground or standing, and told me who carried them away. Many
of the farmers made deep holes and buried them in the ground: they
knew where they lay. Lord _Winchelsea_ with me counted the number of
the stones left, 72, _anno_ 1722. I laid it all down in the nature
of a survey, on large imperial sheets of paper, and wrote a detail of
every stone present, or absent. But it would be very irksome to load
the press with it. I shall recite no more of it, than what I think most
useful and necessary.
Standing at the southern entrance of _Abury_, one stone the first, lies
on the eastern side or left hand, close by the ditch: its opposite
stood where at present a sycamore tree is planted. The next stone on
the right hand is standing, by the turning of the _Bath_-road. Twenty
four stones on both sides, next following, are carried off. At about 20
intervals going along the road to _Kennet_, which is the same as the
avenue, we descend a gentle valley, and then lose sight of _Abury_.
There you discern the curving of the avenue, many stones being left
together on both sides. Here two stones are standing opposite to each
other. I measur’d them near 60 feet asunder, which is 34 cubits. Then
we ascend again a little hillock, where a good number of stones remain
on both sides.
In a close on the left hand of the avenue, or east of it, not far
from _Abury_ town, is a pentagonal stone laid flat on the ground, in
the middle of which is a bason cut, always full of water, and never
overflowing. The country people have a great regard to it: it proceeds
from a spring underneath, and for ought I know, it may have been here
from the foundation of our temple. Coming out of _Abury_, you observe
the line of the avenue regards _Overton-hill_ before you, but soon
you find it leaves it, and curves to the right hand a little. At the
number of 65 stones on each side, you come to a hedge belonging to the
inclosures of _West-Kennet_. In the year 1720 I saw several stones
just taken up there, and broke for building; fragments still remaining
and their places fresh turf’d over, for the sake of pasturage. Where
the corn-fields or pasturage have infring’d upon the sacred ground,
our work generally goes to wreck. Where the heath remains, ’tis still
perfect enough; of which we say with the great poet,
_Nec nulla interea est inaratæ gratia terræ._
so that the covetous farmer and grazier have conspired to abolish this
most magnificent monument; and that just about the time I was there.
_Charles Tucker_ Esq; late of _East-Kennet_ a gentleman of sense, us’d
to be very angry at the ruin of these stones, and prevented it as much
as he could.
As to the stones that compos’d this avenue, they were of all shapes,
sizes, and height that happen’d, altogether rude. Some we measur’d 6
feet thick, 16 in circumference. If of a flattish make, the broadest
dimension was set in the line of the avenue, and the most sightly side
of the stone inward. The founders were sensible, all the effect desired
in the case, was their bulk and regular station. All the hill tops,
especially the _Hakpen_, are adorn’d with barrows as we go along. When
the avenue comes to the inclosures aforementioned of _West-Kennet_,
it passes through three of them, crosses a little field lane, and the
common road from _Marlborough_ to _Bath_, just after the road makes a
right angle descending from _Overton-hill_. We must note that we have
been a good while ascending again. In this angle the _Roman_-road from
_Marlborough_ coming down the hill, enters the common road. This is the
_via Badonica_ aforementioned.
_John Fowler_, who kept the alehouse hard by, demolish’d many of these
stones by burning. The alehouse (the _white hart_) and the walls about
it, were built out of one stone.
[Illustration:
TAB. XVI.
_Part of the South Temple from the Central Obelisk 10 July 1723_]
As before, the avenue coming out of _Abury_ town bended itself to the
right, now ’tis easily enough discernible, that it makes a mighty curve
to the left, the better to imitate the creature it’s intended for.
_Fit lapis, & servat serpentis imagine saxum._ Ovid. Met. XII.
Passing the _Roman_ road, it traverses an angle of a pasture, and falls
into the upper part of the same road again, and marches through two
more pastures, all along the quickset hedge-side: so that the quick is
planted in the very middle of it. Many of the stones are seen lying in
their proper places, both in the pastures and in the road. These stones
are all thrown down or reclining, and very large. We measur’d one by
the style 12 feet long, 6 and a half broad, 3 and a half thick.
At the bottom of these pastures on the right, runs the virgin stream of
_Kennet_, just parted from its fountain by _Silbury-hill_. One stone
is still standing by a little green lane going down to the river. Now
our avenue marches directly up the hill, across some plough’d fields,
still by the hedge of the _Marlborough_ road, where yet stands another
stone belonging to it. Then we are brought to the very summit of the
celebrated _Overton-hill_, properly the _Hakpen_ or head of the snake,
which is 7000 feet from the _vallum_ of _Abury_ town. 400 cubits,
according to _Herodotus_ II, was the _stadium_ of the ancients, our
furlong; a space that _Hercules_ is said to run over at one breath.
Had the side-interval of the stones of this avenue been the same
throughout, 50 cubits, that repeated 100 times the number of the
intervals, would produce 5000 cubits. But because, as I said, they
lessen’d this interval proportionably, as they came to the neck of the
snake, it amounts to 4000 cubits, which is ten _stadia_, an eastern
mile in Dr. _Arbuthnot_’s tables, amounting to 7000 feet, as Mr. _Roger
Gale_ and I measur’d its whole length.
We may observe the proportion between the diameter of the great circle
of _Abury_ town, which was 800 cubits, two _stadia_, and the length
of the avenue, which is five times the other. Observe farther, they
carry’d the avenue up the side of the hill, so sloping as to make the
ascent gradual and easy.
This _Overton-hill_, from time immemorial, the country-people have a
high notion of. It was (alas, it was!) a very few years ago, crown’d
with a most beautiful temple of the Druids. They still call it the
sanctuary. I doubt not but it was an _asylum_ in Druid times; and
the veneration for it has been handed down thro’ all succession of
times and people, as the name, and as several other particulars, that
will occasionally be mention’d. It had suffer’d a good deal when I
took that prospect of it, with great fidelity, _anno_ 1723, which I
give the reader in plate XXI. Then, about sixteen years ago, farmer
_Green_ aforemention’d took most of the stones away to his buildings at
_Bekamton_; and in the year 1724 farmer _Griffin_ plough’d half of it
up. But the vacancy of every stone was most obvious, the hollows still
left fresh; and that part of the two circles which I have drawn in the
plate, was exactly as I have represented it. In the winter of that year
the rest were all carry’d off, and the ground plough’d over.