CHAPTER XI

The author discovers a passage over the Nile. Is sent into the province

of Ligonus, which he gives a description of. His success in his mission.

The stratagem of the monks to encourage the soldiers. The author

narrowly escapes being burned.

When I was to cross this river at Boad, I durst not venture myself on the

floats I have already spoken of, but went up higher in hopes of finding a

more commodious passage. I had with me three or four men that were

reduced to the same difficulty with myself. In one part seeing people on

the other side, and remarking that the water was shallow, and that the

rocks and trees which grew very thick there contributed to facilitate the

attempt, I leaped from one rock to another, till I reached the opposite

bank, to the great amazement of the natives themselves, who never had

tried that way; my four companions followed me with the same success: and

it hath been called since the passage of Father Jerome.

That province of the kingdom of Damot, which I was assigned to by my

superior, is called Ligonus, and is perhaps one of the most beautiful and

agreeable places in the world; the air is healthful and temperate, and

all the mountains, which are not very high, shaded with cedars. They sow

and reap here in every season, the ground is always producing, and the

fruits ripen throughout the year; so great, so charming is the variety,

that the whole region seems a garden laid out and cultivated only to

please. I doubt whether even the imagination of a painter has yet

conceived a landscape as beautiful as I have seen. The forests have

nothing uncouth or savage, and seem only planted for shade and coolness.

Among a prodigious number of trees which fill them, there is one kind

which I have seen in no other place, and to which we have none that bears

any resemblance. This tree, which the natives call ensete, is

wonderfully useful; its leaves, which are so large as to cover a man,

make hangings for rooms, and serve the inhabitants instead of linen for

their tables and carpets. They grind the branches and the thick parts of

the leaves, and when they are mingled with milk, find them a delicious

food. The trunk and the roots are even more nourishing than the leaves

or branches, and the meaner people, when they go a journey, make no

provision of any other victuals. The word ensete signifies the tree

against hunger, or the poor's tree, though the most wealthy often eat of

it. If it be cut down within half a foot of the ground and several

incisions made in the stump, each will put out a new sprout, which, if

transplanted, will take root and grow to a tree. The Abyssins report

that this tree when it is cut down groans like a man, and, on this

account, call cutting down an ensete killing it. On the top grows a

bunch of five or six figs, of a taste not very agreeable, which they set

in the ground to produce more trees.

I stayed two months in the province of Ligonus, and during that time

procured a church to be built of hewn stone, roofed and wainscoted with

cedar, which is the most considerable in the whole country. My continual

employment was the duties of the mission, which I was always practising

in some part of the province, not indeed with any extraordinary success

at first, for I found the people inflexibly obstinate in their opinions,

even to so great a degree, that when I first published the Emperor's

edict requiring all his subjects to renounce their errors, and unite

themselves to the Roman Church, there were some monks who, to the number

of sixty, chose rather to die by throwing themselves headlong from a

precipice than obey their sovereign's commands: and in a battle fought

between these people that adhered to the religion of their ancestors, and

the troops of Sultan Segued, six hundred religious, placing themselves at

the head of their men, marched towards the Catholic army with the stones

of the altars upon their heads, assuring their credulous followers that

the Emperor's troops would immediately at the sight of those stones fall

into disorder and turn their backs; but, as they were some of the first

that fell, their death had a great influence upon the people to undeceive

them, and make them return to the truth. Many were converted after the

battle, and when they had embraced the Catholic faith, adhered to that

with the same constancy and firmness with which they had before persisted

in their errors.

The Emperor had sent a viceroy into this province, whose firm attachment

to the Roman Church, as well as great abilities in military affairs, made

him a person very capable of executing the orders of the Emperor, and of

suppressing any insurrection that might be raised, to prevent those

alterations in religion which they were designed to promote: a farther

view in the choice of so warlike a deputy was that a stop might be put to

the inroads of the Galles, who had killed one viceroy, and in a little

time after killed this.

It was our custom to meet together every year about Christmas, not only

that we might comfort and entertain each other, but likewise that we

might relate the progress and success of our missions, and concert all

measures that might farther the conversion of the inhabitants. This year

our place of meeting was the Emperor's camp, where the patriarch and

superior of the missions were. I left the place of my abode, and took in

my way four fathers, that resided at the distance of two days' journey,

so that the company, without reckoning our attendants, was five. There

happened nothing remarkable to us till the last night of our journey,

when taking up our lodging at a place belonging to the Empress, a

declared enemy to all Catholics, and in particular to the missionaries,

we met with a kind reception in appearance, and were lodged in a large

stone house covered with wood and straw, which had stood uninhabited so

long, that great numbers of red ants had taken possession of it; these,

as soon as we were laid down, attacked us on all sides, and tormented us

so incessantly that we were obliged to call up our domestics. Having

burnt a prodigious number of these troublesome animals, we tried to

compose ourselves again, but had scarce closed our eyes before we were

awakened by the fire that had seized our lodging. Our servants, who were

fortunately not all gone to bed, perceived the fire as soon as it began,

and informed me, who lay nearest the door. I immediately alarmed all the

rest, and nothing was thought of but how to save ourselves and the little

goods we had, when, to our great astonishment, we found one of the doors

barricaded in such a manner that we could not open it. Nothing now could

have prevented our perishing in the flames had not those who kindled them

omitted to fasten that door near which I was lodged. We were no longer

in doubt that the inhabitants of the town had laid a train, and set fire

to a neighbouring house, in order to consume us; their measures were so

well laid, that the house was in ashes in an instant, and three of our

beds were burnt which the violence of the flame would not allow us to

carry away. We spent the rest of the night in the most dismal

apprehensions, and found next morning that we had justly charged the

inhabitants with the design of destroying us, for the place was entirely

abandoned, and those that were conscious of the crime had fled from the

punishment. We continued our journey, and came to Gorgora, where we

found the fathers met, and the Emperor with them.

A Voyage to Abyssinia · 第 11 / 15 章