HOT-SPRING LIFE.
Ohinemutu and Lake Rotorua--Te Ruapeka--The old pa--Native
baths--Delightful bathing--A curious graveyard--Pigs--Area
of thermal action--Character of the springs--Chemical
constituents--Noted springs--Whakarewarewa--Te Koutu
Kahotawa--"Tenakoe, pakeha"--Hot and cold.
The township of Ohinemutu occupies one of the grandest situations
in the whole of the Lake district. It is built on a slight eminence
called Pukeroa, which rises with a gradual slope from the shores of
Lake Rotorua, whose bright blue waters add a romantic charm to the
surrounding country.
In front the broad surface of the lake spreads itself out in a circle
of nearly twenty-five miles in circumference, and along the bright,
sandy shore of this beautiful sheet of water small bays, fringed with
trees, and jutting points, clothed with the greenest vegetation, add
variety to the attractive scene; beyond these again, wide, fern-clad
flats roll away to the base of the distant hills, which, rising in the
form of a complete semicircle around, seemed to have formed at some
period or another the area of an immense lake-basin, until the waters,
bursting into the rugged gorges, swept into the valleys of the country
beyond. Some of the hills fall with a gentle slope to the very brink of
the water, others send out their rock-bound spurs, while some, again,
mounting high above the rest, have their tall summits clothed with
dense forests; while deep ravines, thick with a marvellous growth of
vegetation, send down their crystal streams to mingle with the fierce
waters of the boiling springs, which skirt the lake and send forth
their jets and clouds of steam for miles around.
The native settlement, Te Ruapeka, is situated on a long peninsula,
about 100 yards wide at its broadest part, narrowing gradually towards
its end, where it terminates in a sharp point, as it runs flatly out
almost on a level with the waters of the lake.
Every part of this strip of land, from one end to the other, is dotted
about and riddled with thermal springs, some of which shoot out of the
ground from small apertures, while others assume the form of large,
steaming pools. They are of all degrees of temperature, from tepid heat
to boiling-point; and while you may cook your food in one, you may take
a delicious bath in another, and get scalded to death in a third.
In former times a _pa_ stood at the further end of the peninsula, but
one stormy night a rumbling noise was heard, then a sound of hissing
steam, the trembling earth opened, and the _pa_ with all its people
sank bodily into the depths of the lake.
All the _whares_ of the settlement are built, after the native fashion,
of _raupo_, with large recesses in front of the doorways, the woodwork
of which is curiously carved, and forms a very good specimen of the
Maori order of architecture. The _whares_ are clustered promiscuously
about the springs, and it is no unfrequent occurrence to see a stalwart
savage, a buxom woman with a baby in her arms, a sprightly youth, or
a dark-eyed damsel come out from the carved portals of a hut in the
primitive costume of our first parents, and jump into one of the many
square stone baths dotted about, and with no other regard for their
neighbours who may be standing or squatting around than if they were so
many carved images.
[Illustration: NATIVE WOMAN AND CHILD.
(_Ohinemutu._)]
The natives use these baths at all times of the day, and even at all
times of the night--that is to say, if a man feels chilly in bed, he
gets up and makes for his bath in order to get warm again. Bathing here
seems to be a second nature, and the women and girls arrange afternoon
bath-parties just as we might assemble our friends at an afternoon tea.
There is something very delightful in bathing in the open in one
of these thermal springs. I had my first and last Turkish bath in
Constantinople, where the whole process had been so elaborately
improved upon by all that Eastern art for luxury could devise, that to
go through the ordeal was positively painful, by reason of the state
of luxuriousness to which it had been wrought. Here all is primitive
simplicity, ceremony is dispensed with, perfumes--at least of "Araby
the blest"--are unknown. You sniff the fresh air, which in these parts
feels like the elixir of life, plunge in, and sit for hours, mooning
the time away in a soft, stimulating heat, beneath the glowing rays of
the sun; and if you are not satisfied with this, to complete the luxury
you may leave the bath, and sit down, naked as you are, on a seat of
heated slabs, where you may be steamed and "vaporized" on the coldest
day or the most frigid night without fear of taking cold or of being
doubled up by rheumatism.
Not only do the natives use the springs for bathing and curative
purposes, and not only do they warm their houses by their means, and
perform all their culinary duties by their aid, but they actually bury
their dead among them. I went down to the further point of the native
settlement, where there is a small graveyard situated among boiling
springs and steaming fissures that crop up everywhere over the ground,
as if the volcanic fires below were just ready to burst forth and
swallow up the living with the dead. Portions of curious carvings, old
canoes, and grotesque figures in wood lay scattered about in every
direction, and one was apt to wonder how it was that they had not long
since been destroyed or carted off to grace some antiquarian museum
as relics of a rude art which is fast falling into decay. But these
remnants of native industry were all _tapu_, and were as sacred in the
eyes of the Maoris as would be a piece of the "true cross" on the altar
of a cathedral in Catholic Spain. There was a small, dilapidated hut
here filled with coffins containing the remains of several celebrated
chiefs, and not far off was an oblong tomb, built of wood, surmounted
by a cross, and as I gazed upon it and then upon the grotesque figures
lying around, it seemed as if the darkness of heathenism had grappled
here with the light of Christianity. It was sacred to the beloved wife
of Rotohiko Haupapa, the giant chief of Rotorua. Immediately behind
it was a spring with a temperature a little over boiling-point--in
fact, anywhere in the vicinity it was only necessary to sit upon the
grass, and you would find the heat from below rise up at once, or to
put your finger beneath the roots, when the soil would feel hot enough
to boil an egg. It appeared strange that the dead should be buried in
so singular a spot (unless they had done something very naughty when
in the flesh), and as the hot water bubbled up and hissed through the
fissures of the rocks, it seemed to whisper forth the sighs of those
below.
When walking around the _whares_, and noticing the various phases
of Maori hot-spring life, I saw half a dozen members of the porcine
tribe come quietly along with an easy, self-satisfied air, as if they
had just gone through their morning ablutions in the warm, bubbling
fountains, and were going to root round for steamed potatoes, boiled
cabbage, and other delicacies. Suddenly a half-naked Maori slunk out
of his hut, with a long knife between his teeth. Quick as thought,
and with the skill of a champion assassin, he seized the foremost pig
by the hind leg. A prod from the knife, and the crimson blood of the
murdered animal mingled with a rill of boiling water, which was running
past in a hurry, as it were, to cool itself in the lake. A twist of the
wrist, and the pig was jerked into a steaming pool, where the heated
waters twirled and hissed as if in a red-hot cauldron. Out again in an
instant, and then he set to work to scrape off the bristles, which came
away in flakes, as if they had simply been stuck on by nature by the
aid of a little glue, and the skin of the porker gleamed white as snow
beneath the sun. In two minutes more he was disemboweled, and then he
was placed over a steam-hole, with a couple of sacks over him, to be
cooked for the evening meal. From the time that pig gaily walked the
earth until the end of that terrible process, about fifteen minutes
expired.
The area in the immediate vicinity of Lake Rotorua where the action
of the thermal springs is most active may be said to extend from
Whakarewarewa on the one side to Te Koutu on the other. The distance
between the two points is about three and a half miles, the thermal
action extending inland for about a mile from the border of the lake to
Ariki Kapakapa, celebrated for its big holes of black, boiling mud. A
short distance from the eastern shore of the lake is Tikitere, a narrow
valley in the centre of which is a boiling-water basin, about seventy
feet in diameter, and which is surrounded in every direction by hot
mud-pools and boiling springs. Close to Tikitere is Lake Rotoiti,[17]
whose deep bays and jutting headlands impart to it a very beautiful
appearance. Hot springs occur on its southern shore, while still
further to the east of it, again, are the warm lakes known as Rotoma
and Rotoehu, the waters of the two latter being rendered of a greyish,
opaque colour by the action of the subaqueous springs.
All the country within the existing range of thermal action, and, in
fact, considerably beyond it, bears the distinctive traces of the
combined work of fire and water, while the ground for miles around is
covered with silicious and sulphurous deposits, together with pumice,
scoria, obsidian, alum, oxide of iron, and various other products, the
result of the igneous and aqueous action which is everywhere observable
in the form of geysers, hot springs, boiling mud-holes, _solfataras_,
and _fumaroles_, and which are known to the natives under the more
general terms of _ngawha, puia_, and _waiariki_.[18] All the geysers
and most of the springs are intermittent, while not a few are very
erratic in their movements, subsiding in one place and breaking out
in another with wonderful rapidity. The water of some of the springs
is as blue and as bright as crystal, in others it is of a greenish
tint, while in not a few it assumes a dirty yellow colour. Nearly
every spring possesses properties peculiar to itself, and mostly all
are more or less efficacious in the treatment of rheumatic and nervous
complaints, and cutaneous and spinal disorders.
[Illustration: NATIVE VILLAGE.
(_Lake Rotoiti_).
_Page 62._]
Upon analysis, the springs are found to contain various chemical
ingredients, but in different proportions, according to the quality or
properties of the water. Among the principal chemical bodies may be
mentioned the chlorides of sodium, potassium, lithium, calcium, and
magnesium; the sulphates of soda, lime, potash, magnesia, alumina,
and iron; the silicates of soda, lime, and magnesia. In the acids,
hydrochloric, sulphuric, and muriatic are found in abundance, while
both sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid gas are largely evolved.
The most important springs are situated at Sulphur Point--a small
peninsula at the southern end of Lake Rotorua. One of the most noted
is Whangapipiro, a large circular pool of hot saline water, with
silicates, and with an alkaline reaction. The water, which is only a
few degrees below boiling-point, is perfectly blue, and as clear as
crystal, and when you look down into its deep and apparently fathomless
basin, the white, alabaster-like deposits of silica hanging around its
sides make it appear like a picturesque grotto formed of coral rock.
Near to this bath is Te Kauhanga, or the "Pain-killer," the water of
which is saline, with excess of acid and acid reaction. It is very
efficacious in cases of acute rheumatism, and many marvellous cures
are said to have been effected by it. Not far distant is Te Kauwhanga,
a large, muddy basin, with a constant discharge of gas, which rises
in the form of large bubbles upon the slimy-looking surface. The
waters of this bath are slightly saline, with excess of acid and acid
reaction, while the gas which is constantly evolved produces upon
many, when inhaled, similar effects to those of laughing-gas. Nearer
to the lake is Te Pupunitanga formed by a warm spring of transparent
water, the properties of which are aluminous, and strongly acid, with
acid reaction. The water of this spring is very beneficial in cases
of acute rheumatism and cutaneous disorders, and when used in its
natural state--that is to say, without the admixture of fresh water--it
produces a tingling sensation, and causes the skin to assume for a
short time the redness of a boiled lobster. The "Coffee-pot" is a
hole about twelve feet in diameter, full of hot, bubbling mud of the
colour of coffee, and which rolls and splutters about in a constant
state of ebullition. The "Sulphur Cups," not far distant, are formed
by small sulphurous springs of various degrees of temperature, which
flow out of circular, cup-shaped basins, about four feet in diameter,
around which the bright yellow mineral is deposited in the form of
glittering crystals, while the "Cream Cups"--delicate and beautiful in
formation--are fashioned out of cup-shaped craters, from the centre of
each of which shoots forth a jet of sulphurous gas and steam.
From Sulphur Point I rode across to Whakarewarewa. Situated about two
miles to the south-west, and at the base of a range of bare hills,
was a native settlement, surrounded by a wide area of thermal action.
Here the geysers, hot springs, mud-holes, mud-cones, and _solfataras_
were scattered about in every direction, while the ground hissed and
seethed, as it were, in fury beneath one's feet. It was just such a
place where you would expect at any moment to go head-first into a
mud-hole or boiling spring, or be scalded to death by a shower of hot
water from the big geysers as they threw up their steaming columns
of silvery liquid high into the air with a loud, rumbling sound like
distant thunder. One of the largest geysers here, called by the
natives Waikite, issues from a cone of silicious rock nearly fifty
feet high and over a hundred feet in diameter, and in its most active
moments throws up an enormous column of boiling water to a height of
sixty feet. Many of the numerous springs here possess great curative
properties, while the mud-holes and fumaroles are amongst the largest
and most active in the district.
At Te Koutu, which lies on the shores of the lake, about a mile on the
north side of Ohinemutu, there is a very interesting chain of warm
springs and mud-holes. This is one of the most beautiful situations
on Rotorua, of which a splendid view is obtained, with the island of
Mokoia in the distance, and the forest-clad mountain Ngongotaha, rising
to a height of 2554 feet above the level of the sea, and just in rear
of the small native settlement, which here skirts the margin of the
wide expanse of water. There is one beautiful spring here, called
Tupuhi, of clear, hot water, which fills a snow-white silicious basin,
about ninety feet long, while within a few feet of it is a circular
basin of the same kind, in which the water is only of tepid heat. It
is surrounded by a mantle of green grass, and the water of the darkest
blue makes it look like a big turquoise set in a border of alabaster
and emeralds.
I was shown round this locality by a native guide, who took me to
a large hole where a warm spring, called Kahotawa, bubbled up in a
mixture of greenish mud and scum. Its black sides were overgrown with
ferns, and a few sticks were placed across it in a mystic, cabalistic
kind of way. When we got near to it, I noticed that my guide drew back,
and when I motioned for him to follow me, in order to explain the
mystery, he informed me in the most solemn way that it was _tapu_ for
the Maori, but not for the _pakeha_. He afterwards stated that it was
sacred to an aged chief, or _rangatira_, who had been buried in it. I
did not envy the old man his last resting-place, for I had never seen a
grave that looked so much like a cauldron of hot turtle soup.
Soon afterwards I passed in front of a _whare_ built within a few
feet of the lake, where there was an open bath right in front of the
doorway. It was formed of a few slabs let into the ground, like a
square box, to hold the water. A small warm spring filled it, and then
ran over its sides into the lake. I should not have taken any notice
of this simple contrivance, had it not been for the fact that a maiden
of some seventeen summers was reclining at full length in it, in the
simple yet attractive costume of Eve, and with a short black pipe in
her mouth. I had stepped round the corner of the hut, and was within
a foot of going head-first into the bath before her well-rounded
form met my gaze. She was, however, in no way disconcerted by this
_contretemps_, but, fixing her dark eyes upon me, said, in the most
unconcerned way imaginable, "_Tenakoe, pakeha_."[19] There was not the
slightest tinge of immodesty in her manner; she simply lay shining
beneath the sun, with all the grace with which nature had endowed her,
looking like a beautiful bronze statue encased in a block of crystal.
At some distance further on I got into a warm bath myself, which caused
a delightful sensation of glowing warmth, and when I was tired of this
I plunged into the cool water of the lake, which produced an effect
which seemed to brace up every nerve and muscle. There is nothing which
strings up the system so well as a mixed bath of this kind, and there
is no place where it can be enjoyed with greater comfort or pleasure
than at Te Koutu, where the springs are close to the shore, and where
the waters of the lake shallow gradually over a white bed of sandy
pumice.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 17: The word _roto_ in Maori is equivalent to lake. Hence
Roto-rua, "lake number two;" Roto-iti, "small lake;" Roto-ma, "white
lake;" Roto-ehu, "muddy lake;" Roto-mohana, "warm lake," &c.]
[Footnote 18: The term _ngawha_ is used to designate non-intermittent
springs and _solfataras; puia_ is applied to geysers and hot fountains;
_waiariki_ means a spring suitable for bathing.]
[Footnote 19: _Tenakoe, pakeha_, "I salute you, stranger," is the usual
Maori salutation addressed to Europeans.]