AUCKLAND TO OHINEMUTU.
The flank movement--Auckland Harbour--Tauranga--Whakari--The
_tuatara_--_En route_--The Gate Pa--All that remains--Oropi--A
grand forest--Mangorewa Gorge--Mangorewa River--A region of eternal
fire.
A little short of five months after the events which I have recorded
in the previous chapters took place, I embarked on board the S.S.
_Glenelg_, for Tauranga. I had selected to travel by this way as I had
determined to reach the Lake Country by the East Coast, pass through
the centre of the island, enter the King Country at its southern
extremity, and, if possible, carry on my explorations northward to
Alexandra. Owing to the unsatisfactory condition of the Native Question
at that time, the undertaking appeared to be a hopeless one, but I
resolved to give it a fair trial, and as the _Glenelg_ glided over
the calm waters of Auckland Harbour, half the difficulties which had
previously presented themselves to my mind seemed to disappear with
the fading rays of the sun as they played over the water, cast fitful
shadows athwart the romantic islands of the bay, and lit up the tall
spires of the receding city.
As we sped on in the golden twilight, some of the most attractive
views were obtained of the renowned harbour which places the northern
capital of New Zealand at the head of all antipodean cities for
grandeur of scenery, and as a mart for commerce, and which, in time
to come, should transform it into the Naples of the Pacific. On every
side the most delightful prospects unfolded themselves; the city with
its forest of houses rising and falling over hill and valley, and
clustering around the tall, grassy cones, once the scene of raging
volcanic fires, next crowned with Maori _pas_, and now dotted with neat
villas. Small inlets and jutting points of land came constantly before
the gaze; the forest-clad mountains of Cape Colville and Coromandel
mounted boldly above the sea; in the east, Kawau, the island home of
Sir George Grey, rose in the north, backed by the rugged peaks of
the Barrier Islands; while right in the centre of this grand picture
the volcanic cone of Rangitoto towered to a height of 800 feet above
the wide expanse of water. Every point, each sinuous bay and jutting
headland, was rich in a varied vegetation of the brightest green,
and as the softly tinted light--violet, crimson, and yellow--so
characteristic of New Zealand sunsets, mingled with the deep blue of
the sea as the shades of evening crept on, and the stars shone forth
from above--the whole surroundings, as our vessel glided rapidly on her
way, combined to form an ever-changing panorama of unrivalled beauty.
When, early on the following morning, we steamed into Tauranga Harbour,
the sea was as smooth as a sheet of glass, the heavens were blue and
cloudless, and the town, the fern-clad hills, and the mountains in the
distance, completed one of the most attractive pictures of New Zealand
scenery I had ever beheld. In front the neat white houses of the
settlement rose from the very edge of the lake-like expanse of water,
the country beyond lay stretched before the gaze in a broad expanse
of green, whilst the bold outline of the coast, with its jutting
headlands, extended for miles on either side.
[Illustration: WHAKARI, OR WHITE ISLAND.]
Tauranga is not a large place, but its situation is delightful. It
is built mostly along the west shore of the harbour, and commands a
splendid view of the great ocean beyond, with its picturesque islands,
which rise in fantastic shape, from the broad surface of the Bay of
Plenty. The harbour, which is completely landlocked, and safe in all
weathers, stretches out before the town in the form of an inland lake.
The rugged islands of Tuhua, Karewha, and Motiti rise abruptly from the
surrounding sea, while in the distance, towards the east, the geysers
and boiling springs of Whakari send up their clouds of steam.
[Illustration: THE TUATARA.]
Whakari, or White Island, which lies about thirty miles from the shore
in the Bay of Plenty, is a cone-shaped mountain rising abruptly from
the sea to an altitude of 860 feet. The crater, about a mile and a half
in circumference, is in the condition of a very active solfatara, whose
numerous geysers and boiling springs evolve at all times dense volumes
of steam and sulphurous gases. There are large deposits of sulphur
surrounding the crater, and several small warm lakes of sulphurous
water. It lies in the line of active thermal action which stretches
across the North Island through the Lake Country to the volcano of
Tongariro, with which, according to native tradition, it is supposed to
be connected by a subterranean channel.
The small rocky island of Karewha in the Bay of Plenty is remarkable
as being the only remaining abode of the _tuatara_ (_Hatteria
punctata_,[15]) the largest lizard in New Zealand. It is a
non-venomous reptile, about eighteen inches long, with a ridge of
sharp-pointed spines like a fringe down its back, and which it raises
or depresses at pleasure.
When I left Tauranga, well mounted, _en route_ for the Lake Country,
the air was delightfully fresh and balmy, and the fervid glow of the
sun soon dispelled the vapoury mist that hung around. All the roads
leading out of the town were white with shell, and fringed with trees,
among which the tall poplar and weeping willow were conspicuous by
their luxuriance, while the bright verdure contrasted pleasantly with
the picturesque villas, around which all the beauties of the floral
world flourished in luxuriance. Here the grass was of an emerald green,
the trees looked as fresh as if growing under the influence of an
English spring, the jasmine, the clematis, and the honeysuckle wound
their graceful tendrils about, and whole acres of sweetbriar scented
the air with its delightful perfume. The country soon opened out into
broad plains and undulating hills, which rose in the form of a bold
amphitheatre to the forest-clad heights beyond, until suddenly there
appeared right in front of me an extensive expanse of fern.
Away over the plains, down the slopes of the ravines, over the distant
hills and into the valleys beyond, fern, fern, nothing but fern, rolled
away in every direction as far as the eye could reach, its green,
waving surface losing itself in the distance like a boundless sea. I
had beheld many bits of scenery in the colony similar to this, but
this wild fern-clad region had a special charm about it, for it had
gained for itself a place in the history of New Zealand which will be
as memorable, perhaps, in time to come as are the plains of Hastings,
where Norman and Saxon fought for the mastery of Britain.
The road hereabouts passed over a slight elevation which assumed the
form of a circular hill about fifty feet high, but the ascent to which
was very gradual from the plain below, while it was naturally flanked
by deep gullies down to which the sides of the hill fall in a long
sweep. There was nothing in this place to render it remarkable other
than the fact that it was formerly the site of the celebrated Gate
Pa,[16] and it was to the east of it, in the fern-clad flat below,
just eighteen years ago, that General Cameron, with two regiments of
infantry and a body of marines, numbering in all 4000 men, took up his
position to storm one of the most formidable of Maori strongholds.
Thoroughly equipped with all the appliances of modern warfare, the 43rd
and 68th Regiments manoeuvred into position to attack a force of 500
natives armed only with the rifle and tomahawk, and entrenched behind
a rude stockade of _manuka_ and fern. At first victory seemed easy for
the Imperial forces, and, with such powerful allies as the bayonet
and Armstrong gun, there appeared little more to do than to scale the
redoubts, storm the rifle-pits, and place their colours on the summit
of the Gate Pa. But with that cunning strategy which characterizes
savage races in the art of war, the Maoris had hit upon a grand idea
to deceive their enemies. They did not place their red fighting-flags
in the _pa_ where their main forces were, as the _pakeha_ would
have done, but they distributed them in outlying positions below
the stockade, and then they surrounded their false encampments with
barricades of plaited twigs, and covered their rifle-pits with roofs
of fern. The stratagem was successful, and Cameron directed his
fire against these decoys, but of course without effect. The firing
continued from daylight until late in the afternoon, when a storming
party was told off to rush the place. The gallant 43rd were the first
to scale the stockades of the _pa_, but their leader was immediately
shot down, and they retreated in disorder; while the 68th, charging the
right flank of the enemy's position, were thrice repulsed and driven
back under a galling fire. It was now found, just as at Balaclava, that
"some one had blundered," and that the British were firing upon one
another instead of upon the enemy. The natives now, surrounded within
the _pa_, rallied their forces, and as the dark masses swept down upon
the thin red line fighting with the bravery of despair, a panic seized
the Imperial troops, and then began one of the most terrible repulses
and massacres ever experienced by British arms.
Every vestige of the Gate Pa has now disappeared, and nothing but a
small homestead, a ploughed field, and a few Australian gum-trees
mark the spot where this most disastrous of Anglo-Maori battles was
fought, and yet, although peace and prosperity seemed to smile around
as I passed over the old battle-field, I could imagine that I beheld
the rude stronghold intact, the red coats crowding up the heights, and
the flash of bayonet and tomahawk as the bullets whistled overhead
and the shells burst in the air, as the fierce savages dashed forward
massacring their foes with a deadly and cruel hatred, and shouting
loud war-cries which drowned the British cheers in sounds of agony
and death. And I could imagine all this the more vividly since it was
only the night before that I had wandered past the redoubt hard by
Tauranga to the small graveyard which crowned the summit of a cliff
that looked out over the clear waters of the bay. Here a tall monument
of pyramidal shape rose up at the further end, sacred to the memory of
the officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates who had fallen
in the East Coast campaign, while other smaller gravestones stood
about like sentinels. Most of these monuments were simple in design,
some were flat, some stood erect, and some were fashioned in the shape
of crosses, but each told its glorious tale; and as I traced out the
inscriptions by the light of the moon, I could read how one brave man
had met death at Te Ranga, and another at the Gate Pa.
About thirteen miles from Tauranga I ascended to Oropi, which stands
at an elevation of over 1000 feet above the level of the sea, and at
the edge of the elevated table-land which extends for a considerable
distance beyond. Looking back along the road I had come, from this
point a delightful view was obtained of the surrounding country, with
Tauranga and its splendid harbour in the distance, while along the
coast might be traced the winding outline of the Bay of Plenty, with
its picturesque islands rising in rugged grandeur from the sea. The sun
blazed warm when I reached Oropi, and it was a delightful change from
the treeless, fern-clad country to enter the cool refreshing shade of
a magnificent forest, where giant trees, tall ferns, and myriads of
creeping plants and curious mosses and lichens charmed the eye by their
grandeur and variety at every turn.
For a long distance the road took a gradual rise of about 400 feet from
Oropi, and then from a certain point at this elevation, that is to
say, at an altitude of about 1500 feet above the level of the sea, it
gradually descended 200 feet in the direction of the Mangorewa Gorge.
It is not easy to convey an idea of the Mangorewa Gorge; but one must
imagine a mighty chasm some 200 feet deep, sunk like a pit on the top
of the mountains, which here rise to an altitude of about 1600 feet
above the sea, the adamantine sides of the gorge falling with a clear
descent of nearly 200 feet from their summit level. A sparkling stream,
the Mangorewa, fringed with colossal trees, wound at the bottom of
this walled ravine, and towering masses of rock rose up in the form of
bold bluffs and jutting buttresses along its wild and rugged course,
forming, as it were, the outline of a colossal stronghold built by the
gods to guard the entrance to the wondrous country beyond.
As I gained the bottom of the ravine the steep, rocky crags stood
out in bold relief against the sky, the walls of rock gleamed white
beneath the rich growth of mosses, trees, and ferns that fought, as
it were, for life up the steep sides, while gay festoons of curious
creeping plants hung from their rugged edges high in the air above. The
Mangorewa River wound on its way from out a rich canopy of overhanging
trees, where the ferns, mosses, and curious parasitical growth, all
mingling together, shut out the rays of the sun from the vistas beyond,
and where the dark, dank groves, with their gnarled branches and
coiling vines, appeared like the realms of a deserted land. From the
bottom of the gorge the road ascended to an altitude of 210 feet to the
opposite crown of the range, and from this point a descent of 800 feet
was made to the great table-land of the Lake region.
It was evening when I finally emerged from the forest, and then
the road descended rapidly as if into a basin surrounded by hills
and mountains, among which the sharp peaks of Mount Tarawera were
conspicuous by their rugged grandeur. Right in front the shining
surface of Lake Rotorua caught the last rays of the setting sun, while
on its shores the native _whares_ of Ohinemutu stood clustered about
amidst vapoury clouds of steam, when suddenly even the water flowing
from the side of the road bubbled up and smoked, and as the mists of
night mingled with the vapours around, I seemed to have arrived at a
region of eternal fire.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 15: For a synopsis of the New Zealand _fauna_, see Appendix.]
[Footnote 16: This word is often written _pah_, but, as a consonant is
never used as a terminal in the Maori language, the addition of the _h_
is an innovation.]