[Illustration: THE LAST SUPPER PROTECTED BY PADDING
Da Vinci's great picture is painted on the wall of the Refectory of the
Church of Santa Maria della Grazie, Milan, Italy]
Many hotels are closed, tourists come no more. No Italian city
has suffered from the effects of war so much as Venice. Industries
have been ruined, its commerce depleted. Its churches and hospitals
have again and again been bombed from the air. Frescoes have been
obliterated that can never be replaced, though much of the damage done
will soon be repaired.
All about the populous Square of St. Mark heaps of sand-bags were piled
to protect the arcades. The beautiful façade of St. Mark's Cathedral
has been, for some time, hidden from view. The famous horses were taken
down, the wonderful Byzantine mosaics were removed, and the entire
front of the building covered with sand-bags and protected by huge
timbers.
[Illustration: THE COLLEONI STATUE UNDER PROTECTIVE COVERING]
[Illustration: THE FAMOUS EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF BARTOLOMMEO COLLEONI, BY
VERROCHIO--VENICE]
The Doges' (Ducal) Palace was supported by columns of bricks;
everywhere evidence could be seen of the attempt of the Italians
to save the most remarkable city in the world. Inside the sumptuous
Cathedral of St. Mark's, the effect was startling--all the works of
art gone, the altar covered beyond recognition, mounds upon mounds of
sand-bags heaped around the columns. It was more like a cave than the
interior of one of the most beautiful of churches. Along the Grand
Canal the large hotels have been converted into hospitals. Vast palaces
have been closed and deserted. Life on the Canal is so quiet that it
is almost painful. It is not the same Venice so many travelers recall.
Only one good-class hotel is open. There are a few boarding-houses,
but all the magnificent hotels are either closed or filled with wounded
men.
It was difficult in war times to get into Venice, and more difficult
to get out. Everyone was looked upon as a spy until he proved that
he was not. Officials inquired into your life history, traced your
every movement, watched every step you took, and if finally you passed
muster and got away without a long delay, you knew that there was not
a suspicion of your ever having even dreamed of being a spy.
[Illustration: THE MADONNA AND TWO SAINTS BY PERUGINO-CREMONA