There was a chatter of birds in the tree tops just above his head which

broke his train of thought and brought him back to reality. As he looked

upward Jose marvelled at the size and the straightness of the trees from

which the chatter of the birds had come. Then he noticed how nearly all

the trees were of uniform size, straight, and all nearly sixty feet

high. Here was definitely cabin material and even in this small grove

there were enough such trees to make several cabins. Odd, he thought, he

had passed this place many times and did not notice the surroundings as

he did this day. As his thoughts raced ahead he remembered that he had

stopped to rest, almost always everyone else who passed this way also

stopped. Here would be the place to establish some sort of tavern, wine

shop or eating place. Why, he wondered, had not someone thought of this

before, to erect such a place here on the Arroyo Hondo where people must

pass and where they always stop to rest a while. Jose reasoned that the

wine shop, tavern and inn, must be available for the French, Spanish and

Indian trade, and regardless of what would be traded to him, whether

furs or trade goods, sooner or later he could turn them into gold and

silver. Now, for obtaining the land. The east side of the Arroyo Hondo,

where he intended to establish this new business, belonged to the

French. According to an agreement between St. Denis and Governor Almazon

in 1724, the dividing line between the French and Spanish would be the

Arroyo Hondo instead of the west bank of the Red River as previously

claimed by the Spanish. To acquire this deed would require some tact.

First, he would get the land and then a wife who could be able to help

him operate his business. Which nationality owned this land on the east

bank of the Arroyo Hondo made no difference. Jose decided that he would

get a grant-title from both representatives of their respective

governments. It would be interesting to see if he, a Spaniard, might

obtain a land grant from the French, too, and if this could be done, it

would be quite a feather in his hat, making him more popular among his

Spanish friends.

The grove of trees and the slight rise of the earth there formed a sort

of flat shelf. The land was about ninety _toises_ (540 feet) square and

extended from the Arroyo Hondo to the base of Grand Montania, and the

trail leading up the face of Grand Montania divided the land. This was a

good feature and he would ask for all land on each side of the trail so

that no one else could come in and establish another business near this

resting place and be his competitor.

Guiterez was excited. Even he, with no experience in the operation of

such a tavern, could see the immediate success of it.

El Trumpitero with a loud whinney announced the presence of other horses

in the vicinity, and, as Jose looked across the Arroyo Hondo, he could

see a small pack train composed of eight horses and three riders. As the

train neared and the animals began to ford the stream he recognized the

party of Jean Lagross with his Ais squaw wife, Isobel, and their

daughter, Francine Manuella, named “Manuella” to honor Madam St. Denis,

who was her godmother.

Because of so much rainfall the water of the stream was swift and deep,

and Jose rode El Trumpitero out to the ford to offer assistance to the

party if needed.

One thing that both the French and Spanish had learned from the Indians

was the maintenance of markers on fordable streams such as the Arroyo

Hondo. Slender, cypress poles were placed in a line and at intervals

across the stream, each pole was painted in rings of green, yellow and

red; the red being at the top of the pole. By looking at the poles and

their markings the depth of the water could be ascertained. The markers

were on each side of the crossing marking the now submerged trail. This

ford crossing of the Arroyo Hondo was only about sixty feet from bank to

bank, but on occasion it could be very dangerous if one were not careful

and allowed the current to get the upper hand. The water at this time

had risen past the red markings on the poles, denoting the stream to be

nearly six feet deep and warning that fording it would be dangerous.

Jose had noticed the markings and this was the reason that he rode his

horse part way out into the water.

Jose shouted across to Lagross to have the women mount the largest

horses, and in the meantime he cast his long rawhide rope to Lagross.

The rope was put around the lead-horse’s neck and other rawhide ropes

were placed around the other horses’ necks and attached to the packs. In

this manner the single file of horses and their burdens crossed the

Arroyo Hondo without mishap.

As is common in the Los Adais-Natchitoches area in the month of March,

rains can come suddenly and frequently and this day was no exception.

While the party was crossing the stream, a cold, peppering shower began

which turned into a steady downpour. Immediately the two women began

unpacking one of the horses. This pack contained several hides sewn

together, the four corners were attached to four nearby grouped trees, a

long pole was quickly cut and placed beneath this square of hides and a

shelter was completed, the pole raising the center of the square about

the four corners and causing the rain to run down the sides.

Meanwhile, Lagross and Jose had gathered firewood, being careful to

split the branches to expose the dry inside halves of the wood. Soon a

warm, drying fire was going. Jose whistled and El Trumpitero came to the

shelter and Jose removed from the saddle bag two bottles of wine, some

cheese and a loaf of brown, hard bread.

Guiterez spoke as he passed one bottle of the wine to the two women,

“For you Senora and Senorita, one bottle of the priests’ wine, which is

the reason I am here. I had gone to the Post Jean Baptiste des

Natchitoches to get wine for the priests, Father Certa and Father

Balligo. The bread from the good miller, Sieur Le Renaudiere, baked by

Jacques Turpeaux, was sold to me by the good Doctor Bonnafons at Sieur

Barme’s Store; I bought the cheese, which was brought to Nachitoches by

Joseph Lattier, from the two Barberousses who have a trading post among

the Yatasse Indians at El Campti. It is wonderful the Lord has granted

man the power to prepare food in such a way that it is preserved for

future consumption, here we sit on the Arroyo Hondo and enjoy a meal

just as if we were sitting in our own homes.”

While they were eating Guiterez had become conscious of the beauty of

Francine Manuella. She seemed to have inherited all the beauty of both

the Indian and French races. Here thought Jose is the woman for me, this

one I intend to make my wife. Jose thought of the dowry and wondered if

Lagross had provided such for his daughter. He knew this young maiden

would be the ideal helpmate in his future business because she could

speak French, Spanish and the Caddo languages.

Jose decided that he would make his intentions known to Lagross. Both

the Lagross and Guiterez families had known each other for many years,

and he felt that there was at least a bond of more than business, so he

decided to ask Lagross’ assistance in obtaining this land east of the

Arroyo Hondo. He began explaining his idea to the French trader about

building a kind of trading post, and eating place which would have

accommodations to sleep weary travelers. Lagross liked the young

Spaniard’s idea and told him so, but, said Lagross, “one would need a

wife to make such a venture complete.” At this Jose made his intentions

toward the trader’s daughter clear by stating that he wished perhaps

that he might have permission to pay court to his daughter. Lagross did

not seem surprised of Guiterez’ intentions, as many had asked for his

daughter. “My daughter,” said Lagross, “has had many suitors, some

offered marriage and some only a proposition. You understand how some of

the French and Spanish regard a half breed woman, however, those who

offered a proposition now wear the mark of the short leather whip she

always carries. As for my permission to pay court to my daughter, that

is entirely up to her, she is certainly old enough to be married,

according to other young women her age in this area. Many fathers of

young girls are now pampering a grandchild. Francine is a very

head-strong woman and it will take an unusual man to win her hand.”

Meanwhile Francine, listening to this conversation, was amused, and

first inclined to be angry, but then she thought, Jose offered marriage,

not just a proposition as many had done. Guiterez cut quite a figure,

either astride El Trumpitero or afoot, so this man might be just the one

for her, but she wondered if his talk about the Three Cabins was not

just so much talk.

“Jose Guiterez”, said Francine, “Jose Guiterez, a _mestizo_, a half

breed, wishes the hand of Francine Manuella Lagross, who is also a half

breed; Guiterez who talks big and has nothing to offer a wife but an

assumption of what he intends to do; my father who sits there agreeing

with him while he drinks the Priests’ wine and talks about me as though

I were some sort of trade-goods; my mother sits there nodding her head

in agreement, as if she would be glad to get rid of me; all of you

talking as if I would have nothing to do with the situation. Do you

think, Jose, that you can offer my father and mother wine, bread and

cheese, that would be sufficient to win me as a wife? I notice that El

Trumpitero does not have a whip mark on his hide, that the bit in his

mouth is not the cruel Spanish bit used by the dragoons; you do not have

the sharp Spanish spurs on your boots, do you think you can bend me to

your will as you have El Trumpitero?” “Ha,” she laughed, “that would be

something to see. Now, mestizo, I have a proposition. The moon will be

full tonight. If on the third full moon from this one, there are three

cabins here on the Arroyo Hondo, then I will be your wife. If not I will

have El Trumpitero, the horse I will ride when I leave here, you can use

mine. You see, I know you have no money, no land to sell and no possible

way to stock such a building with trade-goods and in the meantime you

will not have El Trumpitero which is the only thing of value you do

have; now Senor Jose Guiterez what do you say to that?”

“Well,” said Guiterez, “for so small a woman you certainly have a large

mouth, but first I must do this.” He quickly grabbed Francine and put

her across his knee as one would do a spoiled child and spanked her

soundly. “First,” he said, “for talking so to her parents and second,

that she should show more respect to the man she is going to marry;

third, he was holding her to her proposition; fourth, that if, when she

was released, she struck him with her whip, he would use the whip on her

so thoroughly that she would not be able to sit down for the three moons

which she had previously mentioned.” Lagross roared with laughter as his

squaw whispered to him that Francine had finally met her match.

The rain had ceased and the group headed for Natchitoches, Francine

astride El Trumpitero and Guiterez astride the horse of Francine. Not

much was said until the train had reached the top of the steep hill

called Grand Montania. Jose remarked that the horse of Francine had

probably had the same temperament as her owner and she undoubtedly bit

and kicked. Francine, not without a retort, stated that M. St. Denis

could not grant land to a Spaniard, he would be a fool if he did, El

Trumpitero was as good as hers right now. Guiterez said he had one thing

that Francine had overlooked when she stated her proposition and that

she was as good as married to him right now. So the two passed the time

on the way to Natchitoches arguing with each other.

At Natchitoches Guiterez went to Sieur Barme’s Store and obtained more

wine for the priests at Los Adais. He then went to see St. Denis and

told him of the occurrences of the day, and his intentions. St. Denis

said, “I have no authority to do this other than to a Frenchman.” “Now,”

said Madame St. Denis, who had evidently been eavesdropping on the

conversation, “since when has M. De St. Denis ever questioned the word

‘authority’, especially in such a matter advantageous to the French as

well as the Spanish, not to mention the extra profits in commissions to

be received from trade goods sold Guiterez at this prospective trading

post.” “Madame,” said St. Denis, “you underestimate me. I merely stated

that I did not have the authority, I did not say that I would see that

Guiterez did not get the land. Now go quickly and send someone to fetch

Sieur Barme.” When Sieur Barme arrived St. Denis explained all to him.

“Now”, said St. Denis to Barme, “I will sell to you 10 arpents of land

at the base of Grand Montania this side of the Arroyo Hondo for ten

percent of the first year’s profits of the first year that this new

trading post is in operation. I will sell this land to you in the name

of the King of France, what you do with this land is your business. Now,

Senor Guiterez wishes to buy some land, on this land he intends to build

a trading post called The Three Cabins. If you wish to sell this land to

Senor Guiterez for ten percent of the profits of his first year’s

business, you would be in accord with the law to do so. As far as

merchandise for this said trading post I am sure your store could supply

the necessary merchandise. As for payment, I am sure Senor Guiterez can

be trusted, and as for security there would be the dowry given by Jean

Lagross. If you are in agreement I will send for the Notary and draw up

the papers. In the meantime you can issue a bill of sale to Senor

Guiterez for the land.” Addressing Guiterez, “Senor, you now own 10

arpents of land, but building the three cabins in the allotted time will

take some doing. In the meantime you have many friends here at

Natchitoches and I will see that they know about your problem.”

Back at Los Adais Guiterez obtained an interview with the Governor,

Winthuisin, to ask for permission to establish the Three Cabins on the

French side of the Arroyo Hondo. The Governor at Los Adais agreed to

Guiterez’ request. Almazon had settled the question that the Arroyo

Hondo was the boundary between the territories of France and Spain, and

any Governor could give away land which did not belong to his country.

Guiterez now had the sanction of both the French and the Spanish. When

he explained all the details to his family and his many Spanish friends,

all turned to with willing hands and the wilderness of the Arroyo Hondo

rang with the echoes of many axes. Indians and Frenchmen from

Natchitoches brought food and extra assistance. In less than the first

moon two of the cabins were completed. Guiterez had Father Certa at Los

Adais begin reading the banns for matrimony, and on the fourth Sunday

Francine came down the steep trail of Grand Montania and looked at The

Three Cabins finished and stocked with trade goods.

As the two left The Three Cabins to go to Los Adais to be wed, Guiterez

said to Francine, “Remember when you are estimating my values, I told

you I had one thing that you had forgotten to name, that one thing was

friends.” “So you have”, said Francine, “but did you not wonder where so

much food came from to feed those who were building the three cabins, I

am not without friends”, and she smiled, “so, my high and mighty

Guiterez, I think we are going to make a good match. Many of our friends

think so too. Doesn’t the female bird always help her mate build the

nest? Look behind you at all those people coming to our wedding, they

are your friends as well as mine”. Guiterez gazed at Francine admiringly

and said, “there is a blessing in rain in more ways than one.”

IX

AFTER ST. DENIS

In 1743 Justo Bonev y Morales was sent to replace Winthuisin as

Governor. Morales, a Knight of the Order of Santiago, was a man

befitting the ideals of St. Denis, who was now a Knight of the Order of

St. Louis. These two visited often, two knights on a tiny western

frontier. By now the French and Spanish had intermarried frequently so

that the Arroyo Hondo barrier stood in name only.

On June 11, 1744, St. Denis died. Morales came to offer his condolences

as did many from Los Adais. Indians and slaves alike bowed their heads

to the memory of this man.

Governor Morales, in keeping with the false cold front of diplomacy,

wrote his superiors, “St. Denis is dead, thank God, now we can breathe

easier”.

Captain Caesar de Blanc, a son-in-law of St. Denis, was appointed Post

Commandante at Natchitoches and in the same year, 1744, Governor Morales

was replaced by Francois Garcia Larios. These two men had no outstanding

quarrels, for during these four years both the French and the Spanish

prospered, crops were favorable and the trail from Los Adais was

traveled daily by each of the nationalities. The Natchitoches area was

prosperous and shipped to New Orleans, tobacco, cattle, horses and other

farm products. Even those farmers at Los Adais were selling to the New

Orleans market. Young Gil Y. Barbo was importing wild cattle and horses,

obtained from the plains of Texas, driven over El Camino Real to the

Adais-Natchitoches frontier, and on to New Orleans.

There was a working agreement between Juan de Mora and Lt. Derbonne, now

retired from the French army and a civilian, farmer, trader and exporter

of note in the Natchitoches post area.

In 1748 Pedro del Barrios Jacinto y Esprilla, an Alcolade of the Santo

Hernando of all New Spain, was appointed the new Governor of Los Adais.

The humdrum life of the frontier was too much for the new Governor so he

gave up his position to Jacinto de Barrios y Gauregui in 1750. Barrios

remained as governor until 1759, having had the fortitude to be Governor

of Los Adais for a longer span of time than any of his predecessors. By

now third generation Spaniards were being born on the Texas frontier

from San Antonio De Bexar to Los Adais. These people were experiencing a

new freedom not felt anywhere else in New Spain. They now regarded this

land of Texas as their own. The seat of government was too far away to

exercise a cloistered, ruling hand over them.

In 1759 Angle de Martos y Navarette replaced Jacinto Barrios as Governor

of Los Adais. Navarette was a merchant and began to liven the frontier.

Up to this time the French were supplying the area with all needed

material, but when the new Governor came, fine Spanish lace, woolens and

linen, finer than any which had previously been offered for sale on the

frontier, and nails, which had always been scarce on the frontier,

became plentiful.

In 1762 Louis XV gave Louisiana to his cousin Charles III of Spain.

In 1762 Caesar De Blanc was replaced at Natchitoches by Adrian Francois

Le Doux as Post Commandante. He was in turn replaced by Angelus La

Perrier in 1764. Perrier was the Commandante who received the first

Catholic nuns to arrive in Natchitoches; thus 1765 marked the date of

the beginning of formal scholastic training in the area.

Through his merchandising endeavors on this French-Spanish frontier

Navarette had amassed for himself an estimated eighty thousand dollar

fortune. In 1767 Don Hugo O’Connor was appointed Governor of the Adais

and Texas country, and in November of that year, on the seventh day,

Commandante La Perrier had the sad responsibility of turning over the

Natchitoches Post to Don Antonio Ulloa representing the Spanish

Government. In this same year O’Connor received a visitor, Padre Jose de

Solice, who kept a diary of his visitation which was translated by

Reverend Peter T. Forristal and was published as one of the preliminary

studies of the Texas-Coahuila Historical Society.

Father Solice records the work of the priests of the Mission de Los

Adais. There were 256 baptisms, 64 marriages and 116 burials. At the

Natchitoches Post he found records of 20 baptisms, 13 marriages and 15

burials. (Natchitoches was quite often without the services of a priest

and the padres of Los Adais supplied their spiritual needs).

Also, in 1767 Athanase De Mezieres, a Frenchman, was appointed

Commandante of Post St. Jean Baptiste Des Natchitoches.

In 1770 Baron de Ripperda was appointed Governor of Los Adais and it

befell his duty to see to the evacuation of Presidio Senors del Pilar de

Los Adais. The Spanish authorities decided that now that the Louisiana

Territory was entirely under Spanish jurisdiction, this presidio was no

longer necessary.[9]

Ripperda issued orders that all settlers and army personnel were to be

ready in three days to leave the area. Many of the farmers fled to the

Natchitoches area with their families and worldly goods.

With Natchitoches now the seat of Government of the Texas area westward

to San Antonio, El Camino Real was lengthened at least fifteen miles in

extent from Natchitoches to Mexico City. De Mezieres had under his

jurisdiction an area extending from Post Du Rapides (Alexandria) to the

Ataquapois in Oklahoma southward to San Antonio.

The inhabitants of Los Adais and those residing around the missions in

the Nacogdoches area were rebellious and Baron Ripperda extended his

ultimatum to five days.

Antonio Gil y Barbo and Gil Flores became the heroes of the evacuation

of Los Adais, some five hundred men, women and children moved to the

vicinity of San Antonio. The former inhabitants of El Camino Real were

not happy. They longed for the fertile soil and forests which abounded

in wild game of the East Texas and West Louisiana area. Flores and y

Barbo were sent with a petition to the Viceroy of Mexico. The two

returned with the news that the people would be allowed to settle in a

new area. They moved to a settlement on the Trinity River at Robbins

Crossing, the present day location in Madison County, Texas.

Floods and the danger of hostile Indians soon forced the settlers to

seek a new environment. They moved eastward to Nacogdoches under the

leadership of y Barbo. There in 1779 was established the Town of

Nacogdoches.

Y Barbo and a party of followers went back to Los Adais and dug up four

of the six cannon buried there just prior to the evacuation of the area.

They returned to Nacogdoches and re-established La Presidio de Neustra

Senora de Los Delores de Nacogdoches and in the same year Antonio Gil y

Barbo was appointed Commandante of the Presidio.

At Natchitoches in 1773 Commandante De Mezieres kept contact with all of

this vast area by assigning traders to establish trading posts among the

different Indian tribes and suppliers were assigned to each trader:

Pierre Bison was sent to the Calcasieu Indians, the supplier was Reme

Poissot;

Louis Pablo Villeneuve De Blanc to Caddoquopois, Bisadorewas to supply

him;

Jose Antonio Bonetis was sent to Atachapois, this man was an

independent trader;

Pierre Blot was sent to the Nacogdoches Indians and Joseph Blancpain

was to supply him;

Caesar Barme was sent to the Yatasses near Campti, Louisiana;

Nicholas Chef was an independent trader to the Tokawanes; these were in

an area fifty miles northwest of the present-day city of Fort Worth,

Texas. It was one of the most remote trading posts from Natchitoches and

De Mezieres assigned a supply-patrol of the militia at the Natchitoches

Post to supply the necessary trade goods. Sergeant Joseph Trichell, who

had been assigned to the Natchitoches Post in 1749, was to command the

patrol which consisted of Corporal Nicholas Tournier and an accountant,

Nicholas Le Noir. Four musketeers, Francois Hugue, Louis Moinet,

Nicholas Pent and Andries Compiere. Domingo De Soto was to act as

interpreter.

This patrol was responsible for the arrest of four Englishmen who had

crossed the Mississippi River and were trading among the Tokawanes. The

four men were William Warden, John Cross, John Hamilton and Jerome

Matalinche.

De Mezieres was vexed with Sgt. Trichell for allowing the Englishmen to

sell all of their trade goods to the Indians and threatened him with

imprisonment, but Trichell explained that the Indians would have gone on

the war path if they had not been allowed to trade for the English

merchandise. Trichell countered with the fact that all of the profits of

the English traders were now in his hands and that there was no

difference if De Mezieres had the trade-goods or the profits. De

Mezieres paid the Englishmen in French and Spanish coin equal to the

original cost of the merchandise, and this same patrol was ordered to

escort the Englishmen fifty miles east of Natchez before setting them

free. The Englishmen were charged with the Patrol’s expenses.

Luis de Quindise was an independent Spanish trader and was sent to the

Adais Indians.

Pierre Dupain was sent to the Peticaddo;

Andre D’Hutrive was sent to the Bidias on the Trinity River;

Alexis Grappe was sent to the Ais and Guierlero Lestage was to supply

him.

In 1770 DeMezieres following St. Denis’ method of keeping peace with the

Indians, invited the Chiefs to come and stand before him at Post Du

Natchitoches to receive presents in the name of the King of Spain. Along

El Camino Real traveled such great Chiefs as:

Tinhioune, Chief of the Caddoquopois.

Santo, head Chief of the Bidias and Don Melchor, otherwise called

Gorgorritos, a sub Chief of the Bidias.

Quirotaches, Chief of the Nacogdoches Indians.

Christobal, Chief of the Taouaizes.

Vigotos, head Chief of the Hasinai Federation of Indians.

Thus, by gaining the friendship and allegiance of the most important

Indian Chiefs of the territory, DeMezieres established an easy feeling

between the Indians and the Spanish Government.

As of February 16, 1776 DeMezieres sent this Census Report to Unzaga,

Governor at New Orleans:

113 homes; 105 heads of families with 86 women; 77 youths able to bear

arms; 106 infants; 34 unmarried women; 84 bachelors and non residents

engaged in hunting and fishing and trade with the Indians; 2 male and

2 female free people of color; 2 male and 1 female mulattos; 410

Indian and negro slaves (men, women and children); 277 pieces of fire

arms; 1258 head horses, 842 head cattle, 3000 head sheep and goats and

783 hogs and 481 mules. There was shipped from Natchitoches: 1000 head

horses; 100 mules; 9 quintals of indigo; 15 fenegas of indigo seed;

30,000 packages of tobacco; 120 buffalo hides; 36,000 deer hides; 5000

ambrias of bear oil; 5000 pounds of tallow, quantities of bacon and

meats, both salted and dried.

X

AFTER THE LOUISIANA PURCHASE

In 1802 Louisiana was ceded back to France by Spain by the Treaty of

Ildefonso. On May 2, 1803 Livingston and Monroe signed with

Barbe-Marbois the purchase treaty which was dated back to April 30,

1803; thus Louisiana became a possession of the United States.

Spain did not approve of the sale of Louisiana and decided to reclaim

all of the land originally occupied prior to the time when Louisiana was

ceded to Spain.

There was a movement of Spanish soldiers under the command of General

Hurrera as far as Nacogdoches and from there patrols were sent across

the Sabine River.

Fort Claiborne, established in 1805 at Natchitoches by orders of General

Wilkinson, was occupied by several companies of the Second Infantry of

the United States Army under the command of Major Porter.

Dr. John Sibley had been appointed Indian Agent for this area of the

Southwestern Frontier by Governor Claiborne. Dr. Sibley had been keeping

an account of the Spanish patrol movements east of the Sabine River

through contact with the Indians of the area. On February 2, 1806, he

sent a letter to Major Moses Porter at Fort Claiborne saying that there

was a detachment of Spanish militia encamped at Juan Mora’s Lagoon, also

known as Conichi Ranch, one league east of Los Adais on Bayou Dupont.

Lt. Piatt was sent with a letter to Nacogdoches, demanding that all

Spanish patrols east of the Sabine River retire immediately to the west

bank of that stream.

Captain Edward D. Turner left for the Los Adais area with a detachment

of soldiers on February 5, 1806. The Spanish patrol was contacted and

Captain Turner delivered the ultimatum of Major Porter that it retire to

the west bank of the Sabine River.[10]

This document from the U. S. Army records shows the result of that

meeting: The beginning of the Neutral Strip.

At the Adais

February 6, 1806.

I, Joseph Maria Gonzalez, commandante of his most Catholic Majesty’s

troops on this side of the Rio Sabinas, hereby having agreed with

Captain Edward D. Turner, Captain in the United States Army, to return

all troops of his Catholic Majesty’s to the other side of the said Rio

Sabinas, as soon as my horses will permit it or in five days, or at the

most six, and to make my march this day and I also oblige myself to not

send any more patrols on this side of the Rio Sabinas.

Signed: Ensign Joseph Maria Gonzalez

Witness: John V. Duforest (Interpreter)

The above document was the result of an agreement establishing a

no-man’s land between the Arroyo Hondo and the Sabine River, which

neither the United States Government nor the Mexican Government would

use, until a final settlement could be reached between the two said

governments about a boundary. This agreement was made by two young

officers representing their respective countries, both willing to fight

for their countries, but both having the intelligence and initiative to

declare a stalemate to prevent a war.

This forty mile wide strip of land became known as the Neutral Strip,

and in it gathered the lawless of both countries. Even so, from within

this lawless area were to come men who would strike the first blow for

Texas independence.

In 1807 several slaves of Louis Derbonne and other planters owning land

adjoining the Neutral Strip, fled into the Neutral Strip and from there

they went to Nacogdoches and on to Trinidad de Salcedo on the Trinity

River, where they were given refuge by the Spanish Government.

On September 5, 1807, Don Manuel de Salcedo, Governor of Texas at

Nacogdoches, received a letter saying:

The planters of the Natchitoches area are threatening to organize a

force of 250 men to go after slaves known to be in the Texas area of

Nacogdoches and at Trinidad de Salcedo unless the slaves are returned.

The letter reminded the Spanish Governor of Article XX of the treaty

between the United States and Mexico which said fugitive slaves must be

returned to their owners. The letter was signed by Judge John Carr, and

Justices Rouquier and Paillette.

The above letter and a letter from Governor Claiborne brought about the

desired results. The governor might have been influenced by the

knowledge of the Phillip Nolan filibustering expedition in 1800 which

spent itself at Waco-Texas vicinity. Nolan had for several years

traveled westward from the Alexandria, Louisiana area and established a

trail straight westward into the Texas-San Antonio area, where he was

trading for and capturing wild horses and cattle. This trail later

became known as Nolan’s Trace.

XI

THE DEVIL’S PLAY GROUND

When Generals Wilkinson and Herrera agreed to the boundaries set by

their two junior officers, Turner and Gonzalez, they created a back door

to the United States of a forty-mile-wide strip which was to become one

of the most lawless places that ever existed within the confines of the

United States.

Every outlaw and murderer made this Neutral Strip his destination, The

Free State of Sabine, it was called. Neither Spain nor the United States

wished to have the responsibility or the expense of policing this outlaw

state, although the southland’s busiest road cut through the center of

it. But traffic was heavy just the same. Many found that the only safe

way to cross the strip was to travel in force, therefore, either at

Natchitoches or on the west side of Sabine River, the travelers waited

until a large enough group was gathered to guarantee safe travel.

The outlaws of the Strip dealt in horse stealing, cattle rustling,

counterfeiting, or any other form of crime that might strike their

fancy. There is no definite data or history of the goings-on inside the

area, but many men who lived in, or traveled through the district

recorded their experiences in diaries and stories or just handed down

hearsay tales of the happenings in this lawless land. There, a person’s

security was strapped at his hips or carried in his hands in the form of

pistols, long rifles or knives. Even the long, rawhide whip was

considered a deadly weapon in the hands of an expert.

Los Adais was a waystation and on the bulletin board appeared one day a

word with a new meaning, Sabina 28, the same sign appeared on the

Rendezvous Oak at Natchitoches. To the average citizen it meant nothing,

but to those in the know it meant slaves would be for sale at a point

near Pendleton at the ferry on Sabine River on the 28th of that month.

With the discovery of a new way to granulate sugar and with the

invention of the cotton gin, the land around Los Adais and Natchitoches

became highly productive when planted in sugar cane and cotton and more

slaves were needed, but the United States had forbidden their

importation.

To Jean Lafitte, the pirate, the Sabine River with the protection of the

Neutral Strip, became the back door to the United States. Slaves for

wagon loads of food were commonly exchanged, according to the statements

of a Mr. Tulley at Los Adais and Mr. Gunlineau at Natchitoches. Lafitte

needed food for his pirate operations. Up the Sabine River the boats

were pulled, poled or paddled by the slaves to be sold. From the Los

Adais and Natchitoches areas came wagon loads of food, smoked hams, kegs

of salted bacon, cornmeal, kegs of molasses, wine, corn whiskey, dried

beans, peppers, tobacco, sweet potatoes and gourds of honey, with spiced

cake sent by hopeful wives to the pirates so that their husbands might

make more profitable deals.

Back on the same wagons came the slaves, bolts of cloth, jewelry and

perfume (Lafitte’s storehouses was filled with goods from every Spanish

and British ship that he could capture). Everything was legal as far as

the bills of sale went. A certain honest merchant in New Orleans, with a

good reputation and scruples, signed blank bills of sale, to be filled

in by Tulley and Gunlineau.

This may seem rather crude to the average reader—the smuggling of slaves

and the ladies sending spiced goods to the pirates on the Sabine River.

At this very time the United States was confiscating where it could

slaves that had been smuggled in, selling them and giving the informers

half of the proceeds of the sales. Nothing was said about putting the

slaves on a boat and returning them to their homeland. (Question: Are

there very many people today who try to beat the Income Tax?) There was

some good to come out of all this. Lafitte assisted the United States in

the defense of New Orleans in the war of 1812, furnishing men,

ammunition and food. Where did he obtain the food? From the Los Adais

and Natchitoches area. Lafitte, Tulley and Gunlineau were merely

supplying the demand for a necessary merchandise and certainly the

slaves were better off because of it.

Noah Smithwick, who had visited the Strip, wrote of the murders,

robberies and numerous violations of law there. He gives us one tale

that falls in line with the demand and supply of the times. Because the

man he wrote about was still alive he calls this character, John Doe.

Doe was a counterfeiter of money, especially the Mexican silver dollar.

The people at that time had no “jingling” money for their pockets and

Doe supplied this demand, with a silver-coated copper coin. Because of a

slight flaw in the press the coins were easily identified and called

Doe’s dollars.

An Indian approached Doe one day and handed him one of the counterfeit

dollars requesting that Doe put a new skin on it. Doe obliged by giving

the Indian a new counterfeit dollar for the old one, explaining to the

Indian that dollars were like snakes, they always shed their skins.

Doe’s dollars, although not recognized outside the Strip, were regarded

as legal tender therein.

It was said that Doe’s dollars were of more handsome design than the

original Mexican Eagle Silver Dollar.

Doe, however, minted pure silver dollars of the same design. He mixed

enough of these with the bogus dollars so that on occasion when a dollar

was questioned and the dollar tested, it was found to be of pure silver.

Doe, like all counterfeiters, wished to extend his operations but he

wandered out of the Strip on the American side and was arrested.

Every old place has its ghost story and “Spanish Town” is no exception:

[Illustration: THE NEUTRAL STRIP

(shaded area shown)

1. Spanish Town and Scuffelville.

2. Half-way-house or Twenty-mile-house, near Many, La.

3. Kisatchie Caves, near Kisatchie, Louisiana.

xxxx. The Sabine Trail, from Montgomery to the Half-way-house near

Many. The Planters on Red and Cane Rivers used this road when

going to the Sabine River to trade for Slaves.

Nolan’s Trace, cut across the southern part of the Strip from Point

Coupee. Phillip Nolan blazed this Trail and used it to trade for

horses in the Texas area.

This Lawless Strip of land lasted from 1806 to 1821. It was often

referred to as “The Free State of Sabine”.

Note:

I show Cane River on this map. However at the time of the beginning

of the Strip, Cane River was Red River. I show Red River as it is

today, to show the locations of the Towns, whose People were

involved in trade in the Neutral Strip.

By the year 1821, the Red River had begun to change its course to

the Rigolett de Bon Duex, which was a Bayou extending from a point

just above Natchitoches to Colfax, La. Thus you see the actual water

ways as they are today. (Drawn by the author)]

A young Spaniard had successfully traveled the Strip, bringing with him

wealth and many fine cloths. He settled at Spanish Town and became the

target of every single maiden there. Mariea Guiterriz, who had many

suitors, won his heart. Anyone attempting to pay court to her ran the

risk of losing his life in a duel with other jealous suitors.

Immediately after the wedding at the reception a disappointed lover

insulted the groom. Swords flashed, Mariea rushed between the duelists,

a sword stabbed her—not a serious wound all were assured but infection

set in and she grew worse. An old Indian gave some herbs to the young

Spaniard with instructions how to use them to stop the infection. “Boil

these herbs together over a small fire, the odor of the brew will change

and when the odor is this”, the Indian allowed the Spaniard to smell the

brew, “remember the odor because now will be the time to soak the

poultice with the solution”, then the Indian was gone.

The young husband followed the instructions and Mariea began to improve,

but the herbs ran out and the Indian could not be found. Mariea sickened

again. The Spaniard went to the creek banks and the marshy places

searching for the herbs, building countless tiny fires, brewing grasses

and leaves, trying to re-discover the combination of herbs that would

produce the exact odor he was seeking.

Mariea’s infection worsened and she died. The young man’s mind, not able

to grasp the reality that his love had gone, became affected. His brain

ceased to function past the last day that he had left her, assuring her

that this would be the day that he would discover the correct blend of

the herbs. From that time on, fires, tiny fires could be seen on the

creek banks in the swamps and on the hillsides—a lover, true and

devoted, still seeking the odor that would save the life of his beloved

wife.

The crazy Spaniard, they called him, and those who came in contact with

him, those who knew the details of his sad story, made the Sign of the

Cross when he passed and silently said a prayer for him.

Night and day he searched for the elusive odor, always searching. Those

of his age, grew old and died, and so did their sons and grandsons, but

the legend lived on.

Some say they can still see him in his never-ending search, smartly

dressed as he kneels by a tiny fire, others say he is old, dirty, ragged

and ugly; but all say there is no need to be alarmed because this ghost

walks with God.

If some day or night you see a tiny fire with a shadow kneeling by it,

then you, too, are walking with God, because you, too, are one possessed

of devotion and love.

XII

SATAN’S AGENT—JOHN A. MURRELL

One of the many buried treasures of the Sabine strip is claimed to

belong to John A. Murrell, who possessed a brilliant mind which he used

to break all the Commandments that God gave Moses on Mount Sinai. He was

the type of man who could recite to another the entire books of the Old

and New Testaments then shoot him down in cold blood.

John A. Murrell was born about the year 1800 in Williams County,

Tennessee. His father was a Methodist Minister and his mother, a

mountain woman, who at that time operated a wayside tavern. Through the

teachings of his father he learned the Gospel and through the teachings

of his mother he learned to steal. Murrell, well equipped with the

knowledge of the good and the bad often passed as a preacher. In this

guise he made his appearance in the Neutral Strip.

About the year 1825 Murrell went about preaching the Gospel and at the

same time was organizing a band of outlaws. At Los Adais which was now

called Spanish Town, at Twenty Mile House or Midway Station near Fort

Jesup, in the hidden caves near Kisatchie, he established his

headquarters and from these places he ranged out of the Strip to preach

to the more populated communities.

Murrell could mimic the voices of many people and was an excellent

actor. In each community where he preached he adapted their tone of

voice and mannerisms. One of his favorite gospels was the one he called

“Directions”. As he addressed his audience he may have been standing in

the pulpit of a church, or atop a stump or standing in the bed of a

wagon, wherever a crowd gathered Murrell felt that he should preach to

them.

“Directions,” he would shout, “always when one begins a journey, he has

a destination. The road to this destination is similar to the Road of

Life, often along this road one has to inquire about directions, and it

is so through the Journey of Life, one must follow directions laid down

by the Church and the Ministers, they are the sign posts that point the

way. Quite often a man while traveling this road, decides to take a

short cut, instead of following the Good Book as laid down by the

Church, these short cuts become his mis-deeds or his sins.

We shall assume that this Bible is the Book of Judgment and in it will

be the names of every living person on the face of the earth. By each

name there are two columns, one for his assets or his good deeds of life

and the other column for his mis-deeds, which we shall call his

de-sets.”

From here on Murrell becomes the actor in what he called, The Drama at

the Gates of Heaven.

“Batiste had made the journey through life and was knocking on the Gates

of Heaven, a voice from within asks, who knocks? Batiste answers and

gives his full name. The voice is that of St. Peter who looks up

Batiste’s record of life in the Book of Judgment. Then St. Peter

explains to Batiste, we take out the pages which contain your assets and

place them on one side of the scales of justice and on the other side we

place the pages of your de-sets. If your assets out-weigh your de-sets,

then naturally you can come in, as we place your assets and de-sets upon

the scales we will review them.”

(Now Murrell becomes the comic for the benefit of his audience). “Right

here Batiste on May 25, you done de-setted enough to carry over on the

next three pages. Boy, you was really de-setting that day.

Here, we see your Pastor found you hunting on Sunday and you had a nice

bag of squirrels, the Pastor spoke to you about it and you gave the

excuse that you had your days mixed up. Again he caught you fishing on

Sunday and a nice bunch you had too, you gave the excuse that you had

your days mixed up again.

Now, if you had given the Pastor some of those squirrels or fish, then

those de-sets of that day would have turned into assets. But all along

the Road of Life you gave the excuse that you had your days mixed up.

‘Now,’ said St. Peter, as he looked at the scales, ‘because you had your

days mixed up you now have your directions mixed up. You all done come

the wrong way’, and he shut the door in Batiste’s face. Batiste begged

for another chance but this could not be, as you know you can only

travel the Road of Life once.”

Along the Neutral Strip the inhabitants catered only to hard money, that

is gold and silver coins, and Murrell asked that fees for his service be

paid in coin.

Murrell would place a set of balancing scales where everyone could see,

on one side he placed the Bible, then he said, “this Bible will

represent the Book of Judgment and I place it on this side of the

scales, it will represent your mis-deeds or de-sets. Now, we are all

going to stay here until you people give enough to tip these scales to

the asset side.” While the collections were being made, Murrell would be

expounding of the good things he intended doing with the money, he even

had a few henchmen in the audience to begin the contributions and to

urge the others to do the same.

Murrell becomes another legend of Los Adais and of his hidden treasures,

it is believed that he had many hidden treasures which he called large

banks and small banks.

No one is certain how Murrell’s death came about. Murrell’s gold and

silver, and he must have had much of it, with nearly a decade of

preaching, lying, robbing and murdering in the strip, could have been

the cause.

XIII

THE BREAK-UP OF THE NEUTRAL STRIP

There were rumors in 1806 that Aaron Burr was attempting to organize the

settlers of the Neutral Strip and that an actual Free State of Sabine

was to be established, Breastworks at Sabine-Town and a Block House with

two companies of the United States militia were established near the

confluence of Bayou Negrett and the Sabine River on the El Camino Real.

The establishment of the Block House by General Wilkinson resulted in

the Spanish bolstering their strength in the western part of the Neutral

Strip by giving presents to the Indians and thereby establishing an

Indian barrier in the area.

The gifts amounted to two thousand seven hundred-nine pesos from the

Mexican Government to be given at Nacogdoches. The Indians received

muskets, lead, powder, shot, knives, razors, scissors, combs, mirrors,

glass beads, war paint, copper and iron pots, ribbons, coats, bells,

needles, belt buckles, ramrods, cotton goods and rum. The Indians asked

for tobacco which was not available, but five hundred eighty-nine pounds

of tobacco twists were smuggled from Natchitoches through the Neutral

Strip to Nacogdoches by orders of Manuel de Salcedo, the Governor.

Although trade was forbidden on El Camino Real by the Spanish from

French Louisiana there was a continuous stream of contraband goods being

smuggled into Texas. The “Contraband Trail” ran parallel to the El

Camino Real about four miles distant from the El Camino Real, but

crossing it intermittently in areas that were uninhabited.

The Americans retaliated by supplying the Takuays and the Towanoni with

articles of trade and a blacksmith shop so they could sharpen the knives

and scissors obtained as presents from the Spanish.

Outlaws left the Neutral Strip to raid isolated farms and plantations.

Slave stealing and cattle rustling were not overlooked. The citizens

complained to the United States Government.

Lieutenant Augustus McGee and Lieutenant Zebulon M. Pike were ordered to

disperse the bandits of the Neutral Strip. The orders of General Hampton

expressed a desire for cooperation from the Spanish at Nacogdoches. A

detachment under Captain Bernardino Mantero was sent from Nacogdoches to

assist Captain W. H. Overton, who was at that time the senior officer at

Fort Claiborne, issued orders for the clearance of the strip on March 5,

1812. The military only succeeded in destroying the hideouts which were

occupied by the bandits by burning everything in sight. The bandits knew

every sneak trail of the Neutral Strip and were successful in avoiding

the policing parties.

By the year 1821 the Anglo-American Civilization had crossed in

substantial numbers the Mississippi River in two main divisions,

Louisiana and Missouri.

General Edmund Pendleton Gaines considered that the most vital and

important area of the southwest was: “The Southern section of the

Western Frontier, from the mouth of the Sabine River eastward to the Red

River and thence to the Mexican boundary at a point where the western

boundary intersects the Sabine River.”

General Jackson had transferred General Gaines, at that time commanding

the Florida frontier, to the western frontier in 1817. General Gaines

was aware of the constant unrest of the so-called “neutral strip,” known

as “The Free State of Sabine” and _No Man’s Land_.

The proclamation of the Treaty of Washington in 1821 fixed the western

boundary of the United States as the Sabine River, thus the agreement

with the Mexican Republic transferred the Neutral Strip to the United

States.

General Gaines was aware of the feeling of those settlers from the

Sabine River westward along El Camino Real to the Rio Grande near Eagle

Pass, Texas. These were Spaniards that had felt the freedom of being so

far from their government’s head in Mexico City. They, with the

Anglo-American settlers, wanted a different kind of freedom, not

allegiance to Mexico or to the United States. Thus, the Fort

Jesup-Natchitoches and El Camino Real Area on the eastern end from

Nacogdoches and San Augustine was ripe for the filibusterers.

There were many in this area, Gaines was certain, who did not recognize

the Treaty of Washington, Frenchmen of the fifth and sixth generations

who had settled this area, likewise the Spanish, and the Indians for

countless generations before either of the other two nationalities.

“This land ’tis mine—’tis yours—’tis mine,” said the French and the

Spanish. “The land is mine,” stated the United States, “we bought it

from the French.” The Indian declared, “’tis mine, was so even before

either the French or Spanish came.” The settlers questioned which

government will recognize our claim to the homesteads, the land grants,

“this is mine by right of occupation.”

There were the half-breeds, descendants of a French or Spanish father

and an Indian woman. These were demanding their birthright. And they

held sway over many Indian tribes. They were intelligent, they could be

friendly, or a ruthless enemy. But the United States’ ownership backed

by the Army soon restored peace and order to No Man’s Land.

XIV

THE FILIBUSTER OF 1812-1821

Don Jose Bernardo Maxmilliano Gutierrez de Lardo, often called Bernardo,

was a merchant and blacksmith at Revilla, a village near the junction of

the Rio Salado and the Rio Grande. He was a follower of Padres Miguel

Hidalgo y Castillo and Jose Maria Morelos, who were encouraging a revolt

among the Indian and Indian halfbreeds called _mestizos_.

Gutierrez with Captain Jose Manchaca, a Texas rebel and a deserter from

the Royalist Army of Mexico, and ten others left Revilla with thirty

thousand dollars in Mexican silver. Their objective was to reach

Natchitoches, a border town on the Neutral Strip. The money was for

organizing a filibuster campaign into Texas. They were pursued by the

Royalists and were caught up with near the village of Bayou Pierre (a

village at that time located on a road between the present-day Pleasant

Hill and Lake End on Red River). Gutierrez and Manchaca escaped but lost

the silver, finding refuge at a small trading post at Campti, Louisiana.

When they arrived in Natchitoches and began recruiting men for the

filibustering campaign they found many ready and willing to participate.

The merchants, sensing enormous profits, offered every assistance.

Captain Manchaca went immediately into the Neutral Strip to solicit

recruits among the bandits, or anyone else who desired to join the

filibusterers.

Gutierrez wrote a letter to James Monroe, Secretary of State in

Washington, explaining that although Texas was not yet a Republic the

people of that area had all the necessary qualifications for becoming a

nation, that it would be to the advantage of the United States and the

people of the future Republic of Texas for them to seek assistance where

they could find it. It would, therefore, be advantageous to the United

States, should their undertaking be successful in overthrowing the yoke

of the Mexican Government, and Texas become a Republic.

Gutierrez secured letters of recommendation and two hundred dollars from

Dr. John Sibley and departed immediately for Washington where he met

with officials and made requests for men, money, munitions and other

supplies necessary for the filibustering campaign. Gutierrez brought out

the importance to the United States of the Texas commerce. The proposal

was dropped by the officials when Gutierrez insisted that he be in

command of the expedition. However, Monroe did see the advantage of the

United States having a Republic to the west to help guard the border, as

at that time the United States was having difficulties with Spain and

England, and because of the Florida question. Therefore the Secretary of

State did offer encouragement to Gutierrez.

Don Jose Alvares de Toledo was at the same time in Washington seeking

assistance for a revolution in Cuba, which if successful, would result

in the establishment of an Antillean Confederation of the Islands. This,

too, met with the approval of Monroe, but again he offered only

encouragement and no assistance. Don Luis de Onis, the Minister from

Spain, having learned of Toledo’s plans, conspired with Diago Correga to

do away with Toledo. Toledo, because of his failure to get the necessary

assistance he desired, cast his lot with Gutierrez. He cultivated the

friendship of General Ira A. Allen, who was looked upon with disfavor in

the State of Vermont. Allen helped Toledo and Gutierrez by gaining the

confidence and support of those who were interested in such an

adventure, namely: Samuel Alden, a young adventurer; Aaron Mower, a

printer by trade; Evariste Calvettes, a Frenchman of unusual but

intriguing reputation, and William A. Prentis, a merchant who interested

Henry Adams Bullard in the adventure of the filibuster campaign. This

group of men, with several others departed for Natchitoches. Gutierrez

in Natchitoches had enlisted under his banner, the aid of Lieutenant

August McGee, who resigned at Fort Claiborne to join the filibusterers;

Samuel Kemper, a well-known figure in the politics of Florida; Rubin

Ross, an ex-sheriff from Virginia; Henry Perry of the Army

Quartermaster; Joseph B. Wilkinson, son of General James Wilkinson; J.

McClanahan; Rubin Smith; James Patterson; A. Cole and Alexis Grappe,

traders who had many contacts in Texas as far as San Antonio de Bexar;

and James Gaines, brother of General Gaines. The merchants in

Natchitoches hired some of the local youths, Tenoss Moinet, two

Prudhommes, Henry Derbonne, Jose Benetis, Anthony Dubois, Peter Dolet,

Michael Chesneau, Andrew Chase, Stephen Wallace, Matthew Bonnette,

Walter Young, Joseph Ruth and Chesneau Tontin to go along to protect

their interests and to bring back the contraband which they were sure

would be obtained on such an expedition.

William Shaler arrived in Natchitoches almost on the heels of Gutierrez,

a special agent sent by the Secretary of State Monroe to assist the new

so called Gutierrez-McGee expedition. Shaler’s letters to Monroe give an

excellent account of the organization and execution of this expedition.

Shaler, who had been trained as a military man, contributed greatly to

its efficiency.

Samuel Davenport of the firm of Davenport and Barr, licensed traders,

established themselves in the Soledad building in Nacogdoches. Davenport

wrote to Don Manuel de Salcedo, Governor of Texas at Nacogdoches, from

Natchitoches, “John Adair was gathering troops in Rapides (Alexandria,

Louisiana) 500 men were being gathered along the Mississippi River and

at Natchez. Captain Jose Manchac has gathered over a hundred men out of

the Neutral Strip and they are now camped on the west bank of the Sabine

River.”

A letter was sent from Washington to the district judge notifying him

that the United States would not sanction an organization of men on its

land which would constitute an act of aggression against the government

of another country. Judge Carr’s answering letter dated July 22, 1812,

stated that he was aware that some sort of movement of aggression was

being talked about in the Natchitoches Area, but that to his knowledge

there were no men grouped east of the Sabine River congregating with

filibuster intent.

“Young men in groups of two, five, ten or fifteen arrive here in

Natchitoches every day, many are from our immediate local area, they are

mild-mannered and quiet and cause no disturbances, they purchase

supplies at the local stores and when questioned about their

destination, they declare that they are going on a hunting trip. I have

no grounds with which I can detain such a small party of men, for to be

sure groups fewer than fifteen or twenty cannot be classed as a

filibustering party. If rumors are true and there is a location on the

west bank of the Sabine River where men are gathering with the intent of

invading Texas, that area is out of the jurisdiction of any one person

representing our local or federal government.”

On August 8, 1812, the campaign began with a total strength of one

hundred eighty men.

At Nacogdoches was the proof that the people of the area, according to

the statements of the traders Smith, Grappe, Patterson and McClanahan,

were ready for a rebellion against the Spanish Government. At

Nacogdoches on August 11, 1812, when the attack began, the filibusterers

met only token resistance and one hundred ninety of the inhabitants

joined the patriots. The easy fall of Nacogdoches was a shot in the arm

for the filibusterers. Fifty of the Spanish soldiers joined with the

rebels. A mule and horse train with booty of wool, hides and Spanish

silverware, estimated to be valued at one hundred thousand dollars, was

sent to Natchitoches to be exchanged for the necessary provisions to

conduct the campaign. Henry Perry of the army quartermaster was there to

receive the merchandise. Now he had something to work with. Supplies

which could not be obtained in Natchitoches were purchased in Natchez,

Mississippi. The merchandise was brought over the old Natchez-Vidalia to

Natchitoches Indian trail (highway 84 today) which had its share of

bandits and land-pirates.

Gutierrez was an old hand at spreading propaganda and at Nacogdoches the

“rebels” paused long enough to make use of the talents of Aaron Hower,

the printer. The news of the fall of Nacogdoches would be sure to bring

volunteers from the Natchitoches-Neutral Strip area. On September 1,

1812, circulars were found as far as San Antonio, announcing that the

filibusterers army had reached a thousand in number of well equipped

men, and that more volunteers were arriving every hour from ten to one

hundred in number to join Gutierrez, and that they now had cannon which

had been taken from the Spanish in Nacogdoches.

Governor Salcedo, who had previously sent a message asking for

assistance, received news that no help could be sent because the

“Patriot Army” in Mexico was marching on Camargo and Nueva Santanadar

(this was a group of rebel followers of Padres Castillo and Morelos).

The propaganda news leaflets and the news from Mexico caused Salcedo to

withdraw all outlying Spanish detachments and concentrate them at San

Antonio de Bexar. At this stage of the campaign the McGee-Gutierrez army

numbered no more than seven hundred men.

Now, Salcedo’s military ability began to show. He needed a day or two so

that the troops in the west under General Herrera could reach San

Antonio. He left La Bahia (now Goliad, Texas) without defense and spread

his troops along the Guadelupe River twenty-eight miles north and east

of San Antonio. The filibusterers could not overlook the opportunity of

taking a defenseless town. La Bahia fell without a struggle and the

filibusterers were jubilant. Meanwhile the Spanish forces met, forming a

total strength of nearly nine hundred men. Over fifty of the Spanish

soldiers with the filibusterers deserted and returned to the Royalist

troops, explaining they had been captured and were finally able to

escape.

Up to now McGee had been in charge of the filibusterers and Gutierrez

was the commander in name only. There was friction between McGee and

Gutierrez, and at the same time Toledo was vying for the position of

commanding them. Samuel Davenport, the unfaithful Indian Agent of

Salcedo, who had joined the filibusterers, suddenly decided he had some

important, unfinished business and departed for Nacogdoches. A day or so

later Rubin Ross left to contact Indians encamped on the Sabine River

with the intention of joining the filibusterers. McGee died at La Bahia

under mysterious circumstances. Gutierrez claimed that McGee took poison

to keep from being shot. Davenport stated that McGee was sick when he

left for Nacogdoches, and Rubin Ross declared McGee was in good health

two days prior to his leaving Davenport, and that at no time was he

aware that McGee was sick.

When Ross contacted the Caddo Indians on the Sabine River Chief Tohois

refused to fight under any flag other than that of the United States.

Groups of the Alabamas, Choctaws, Conchattas and Attapaws on learning of

the refusal of Tohois also refused to assist in the cause. However,

nearly a hundred of the warriors did join with Rubin Ross.

The second attack of the Royalists was also a disappointment to Salcedo

and the Spanish forces retired to San Antonio. On March 19, Ross

returned with nearly two hundred Indian, Spanish and American volunteers

and the march on San Antonio began. They met no opposition until they

reached Rosillo, about eight miles from San Antonio; there, Samuel

Kemper and Rubin Ross led a vicious charge and the main force of the

rebel drive carried well into San Antonio.

The Spanish were defeated and surrendered unconditionally. Atrocities

followed under the orders of Gutierrez who had declared himself

President of the New Republic of Texas. Several of the Spanish officers

were killed, their clothing stripped from their bodies and left exposed

to the elements. The Americans were enraged by this action. After going

to the scene of the atrocity and burying the dead, many followed the

example of Warren D. C. Hall, deserted the filibusterers and left for

their respective habitats.

A Junta was called after the arrival of Henry A. Bullard and James B.

Wilkinson; Major James Perry and Captains Kemper and Ross threatened to

leave with the Americans unless Gutierrez was ousted and Toledo named

leader of the New Republic.[11]

The battle on the Madina River was the downfall of the filibusterers.

The Spanish gathered their forces under the command of Colonels Joquine

de Arrendondo y Miono and Ignacio Elizondo.[**or Elinzondo, see below]

After the battle the victors were lenient with the many Americans they

had captured. Colonel Elinzondo issued a horse and rifle to each along

with a passport for safe conduct back to the Sabine River. The Indians

were included with the group freed, but with instructions to return to

their tribes and never take up arms against the Spanish again.

It is interesting to note that many of these Americans were later

successful in attempting to make the Texas area a Republic. On September

28, 1813, the first blow for Texas independence failed, but it had been

proved, however, that the Spaniards north of the Rio Grande were

influenced by the freedoms of the American traders along El Camino Real.

They had been forced to provide for themselves from the fruits of the

land, thus becoming independent in their own right. The easy fall of

Nacogdoches was outstanding proof of their feelings.

[Illustration: FORT JESUP DEFENSE AREA]

XV

FORT JESUP

It seems odd that all that had happened in the nearly three hundred

years preceding was merely a prelude to a settlement on a vital point,

this one hill top in Sabine Parish.

The Caddo Nation of Indians was first to recognize the importance of

this land extending from San Antonio to Natchitoches and settled it.

What these Indians did not settle or cultivate they commercialized, and

they established trade routes there.

Cabeza De Vaca and his companions came in 1530. They claimed no land but

were searching for a way out.

Hernando De Soto in 1541 came, but by the time he had reached the Adais,

he, too, was searching for a way out. He claimed no land.

Robert de La Salle came down the Mississippi River in 1682 and claimed

all land drained by that River for the King of France. In the history of

a country there is always one man who has the imagination to see its

possibilities and the ability and push to realize his ambitions. Such a

man was La Salle.

La Salle’s second venture to the mouth of the Mississippi River resulted

in failure. He came by sea, missed the mouth of the Mississippi River

and settled on the coast of Texas where he later was killed. La Salle’s

expedition, however, aroused the Spanish of Mexico, who then began to

extend their operations further to the north.

Padre Hidalgo’s letter and St. Denis’ answer resulted in the settlement

of El Camino Real from San Antonio to Natchitoches. Here, then, was cast

the first seed, in form of settlers, who learned to live as the

Indians—free as the wind, this newly found freedom had been felt by

settlers and their descendants for over a hundred years.

The land of Sabine, “’tis mine,” said the Americans, “by right of

purchase”; “’tis mine,” said the Spanish, “by the claim of Domingo Teran

Del Rio of 1690.”

And so the Neutral Strip was established. Each nation begrudging the

other every inch of it. A lawless land which must now be policed for the

good of both nations.

The southwestern border of the United States was established by the

Adams-Onis Treaty at Washington on February 22, 1821, as being the

Sabine River; Adams representing the United States and Onis representing

the New Republic of Mexico.

Would the settlers of the Neutral Strip and those from the Sabine River

to the Rio Grande recognize the treaty of Washington? The

Gutierrez-McGee filibuster expedition had proved that these people

wished a new freedom. Not that of the United States or that of Mexico.

Many men had cast their eyes toward the land of Texas, there was so much

of it for the taking. But the Indians were not just sitting on the

sideline observing what was happening, they were pressing for their

rights, too, against any and all nations. Surely they realized their

prize possession was slowly slipping from them. The Indians recognized

no treaty among the white men. Only the agreements with the whites which

concerned their welfare were of importance to them.

Many young adventurers of all nationalities and from all walks of life

had come into the area and found the excitement to their liking. They

would align themselves with the side which offered them the most

advantageous opportunities.

General Edmund P. Gaines found himself in a predicament when he received

orders on Dec. 21, 1819, to establish a new command post near the border

of the Sabine River. He was ordered “to establish a new post in a

location that will protect our southwestern border as well as all of the

inhabitants within the boundaries of the United States in your area.”

In the Southwest area he had federal troops under his command; at New

Orleans, 96 men under Major Many; at Baton Rouge, 212 officers and men;

at Fort Claiborne, Natchitoches, 56 men under the command of Major

Coombs; and, at Camp Sabine, on the Sabine River, 105 men under the

command of General Wilkinson.

On November 15, 1820, Lieutenant Colonel Zachary Taylor and four

Companies of the 7th United States Infantry had established Fort Selden

on the south bank of Bayou Pierre on the highest hill in the area, one

and one-half miles from the confluence of Bayou Pierre with Red River,

six miles north of Natchitoches and three miles west of Grand Ecore.

Taylor named the Fort, “Selden,” in honor of Lieutenant Colonel Joseph

Selden, who fought in the American revolution and who was at that time

stationed in the Arkansas Territory.

From the vantage point of Fort Selden on Bayou Pierre there was a

one-mile view of the channel of the bayou. There was flat-boat traffic

on the bayou to the town of Bayou Pierre and on northward to the Petit

Caddos in the vicinity of the present day city of Shreveport. Taylor was

in position to control the water traffic on the bayou.[12]

At Fort Selden Lieutenant Colonel Taylor received this message:

Special Order No. 19.

Headquarters West Dept.,

Fort Selden, Red River,

March 28, 1822.

Lieutenant Colonel Taylor with the troops under his command, will as

soon as possible, occupy the position at Shields Springs, 25 miles

south southwest of this place, where he will canton the troops in huts

of a temporary kind. The buildings will be constructed by the troops.

Supplies necessary, will be sent by the Quartermaster.

Lieutenant Colonel Taylor is charged with the south western frontier

of Louisiana. To defend and protect its inhabitants, as well as those

of the frontier.

Signed: Edmund P. Gaines

Commanding General of The

Southwest Frontier.

Order No. 20

Headquarters, West Dept.

Fort Selden, Red River,

March 29, 1822.

The General congratulates the Troops on the prospects of their

immediate occupation of an eligible position near the National

Boundary.

Signed: Edmund P. Gaines,

Commanding General,

Southwest Frontier.

These two orders confirmed a previous order issued to Taylor by Gaines

in November of 1821 while he was in Arkansas—an order to explore the

vicinity of Natchitoches and the Neutral Land and to locate a site for a

cantonment of a permanent nature, which would be nearer the Louisiana

and Texas boundary.

[Illustration: MAP of the BUILDINGS of FORT JESUP

Explanation of the Map of Fort Jesup. 1831.

In 1831 Fort Jesup had reached maximum in size and no new buildings

were added after this date. The scale of the map thus shown, is 132

feet per inch.

A. Dragoon Stables.

B. Stable.

C. Blissville.

D. Soldier’s Quarters—3rd Inf.

E. Officers Quarters—3rd Inf.

F. Mess House—3rd Inf.

G. Officers Quarters No. 1.

H. Officers Quarters No. 2.

I. Officers Quarters No. 3.

J. Store House.

K. Powder Magazine.

L. Guard House.

M. Adjutant’s Office—3rd Inf.

N. Quarter Master’s Office.

O. Quarter Master’s Office.

P. Commissionary Store.

Q. Soldier’s Quarters 6 Buildings.

R. Cottage.

S. Officer’s Quarters—7th Inf.

T. Officer’s Quarters.

U. Adjutant’s Office.

V. Hospital.

W. Kitchens to Soldier’s Quarters.

Y. Soldier’s Quarters.

X. Band’s Quarters.

Z. Officer’s Quarters.

P. Parade Grounds.

- - - - El Camino Real.

Note: Today’s Museum is a replica of one of the buildings listed as

Z and Kitchen is original of those listed as W.]

Lieutenant Colonel Taylor selected the site and then wrote to General

Gaines informing him of his selection—on a hill which was the division

between the watersheds of the Red River and the Sabine River. He went as

far as he could to the west to establish a permanent command post. Camp

Sabine on Sabine River which was established by General Wilkinson was

not considered a permanent position, but only an encampment for the

benefit of the United States Police Patrol established in the Neutral

Strip to police the Sabine River border and to look after the safety of

the settlers within the area known as The Neutral Land.

General Wilkinson and his detachment were never entirely successful in

quelling the activities of the lawless element. Federal troops stationed

at Sabine Town or Camp Sabine or Sabine Block-house (all one and the

same site) had some 5000 square miles of territory to patrol. A patrol

at that time would have consisted of ten mounted men and one officer.

There were approximately 112 men and officers at Camp Sabine, and the

detachment post would have consisted of ten patrols. If all were in

activity at the same time each patrol would have had 500 square miles to

patrol, which, of course, was an impossible task. At this time there

were about 50 men and officers in Natchitoches at Fort Claiborne and

even the two combined groups would not have been adequate for policing

such an enormous area. The outlaws knew this and in the Neutral Strip

the lawless roamed and pillaged at will and remained hidden in its

thousands of hills and hollows.

It is interesting to note that at the time of the battle of New Orleans

in 1815 General Jackson thought the Neutral Strip frontier so important

that he did not withdraw the troops from that post to assist in the

battle with the British.

In 1822 when Lieutenant Colonel Zachary Taylor established a cantonment

at Jesup at Shields Spring by the order of General Edmund Pendleton

Gaines, on the highest hill between the Sabine River and the Red River,

he had taken into consideration the claim of Cavalier Robert de La

Salle, when in 1682, this Frenchman claimed all the land drained by that

river for the King of France. With the Louisiana purchase, which

consisted of all land claimed by France west of the Mississippi River,

this would include the site of Cantonment Jesup on that hilltop. The

rainwater falling on the western slope would drain into the Mississippi

River via Bayou Adais and Bonna Vista into Bayou Dupont to Little River

to Bayou Pierre to the Red River and thence into the Mississippi River.

Waters falling on the western slope would find the way to the Sabine

River via Phillips Bayou to Bayou LaNann, thence to the Sabine River.

Thus, the establishment of Cantonment Jesup at this particular spot had

argumentative value in favor of the United States against any outcome of

the melting-pot development which could arise west of the Sabine River.

By November 9, 1822, the Quartermaster General’s report stated that the

Federal militia was consolidated and located at the Garrison Post at

Baton Rouge, three hundred fifteen officers and men of the First

Infantry; and at Cantonment Jesup, one hundred forty-one officers and

men of four companies of the seventh Infantry under the command of

Lieutenant Colonel Zachary Taylor.

1822 marked the end of the detachment at Sabine Town, Fort Selden on

Bayou Pierre, near Grand Ecore, Louisiana and Fort Claiborne at

Natchitoches, Louisiana.

When Mexico won her independence in 1821 the Empressario System was

continued and by the end of the year 1823, Stephen Fuller Austin had

executed the grant which had previously been given to his father, Moses

Austin, in which nearly three hundred American families were allowed to

settle in the Texas area. Colonel James B. Many, Commandante at

Cantonment Jesup, was there to greet the emigrants on their way to

Texas. The same year General Gaines decreed that Cantonment Jesup would

be known as Fort Jesup, and made it a permanent establishment of the

Army of the United States Government, which resulted in a more thorough

settlement of the Sabine area known as the Neutral Strip.

Shawneetown, two miles to the west of Fort Jesup on El Camino Real, came

into existence to supply the evil demands of the immediate

area—gambling, horse-racing and other auxiliaries of dis-order.

The twenty-five-mile house, or Midway House, two miles east of Fort

Jesup on the road to Natchitoches was a wayside tavern and Inn.

By 1826 the Mexican Republic had forbidden further immigration into

Texas—the direct result of a contract which had been acquired by Hayden

Edwards to establish eight hundred families in the Nacogdoches area.

Here Edwards organized the short-lived Republic of Freedonia which

resulted from the Freedonia Rebellion. Edwards was driven out of the

Nacogdoches area and his contract revoked.

In this same year a letter, originating at Fort Jesup, to the Governor

of Louisiana, appeared in the Natchitoches Courier, one of the two

newspapers published at Natchitoches at that time, answering the

President of the United States, who wanted to know about the possibility

of establishing steam navigation on the Red River above the Town of

Natchitoches. A duplicate of the original, which sent to the President,

was placed at the disposal of the Natchitoches Courier. Colonel James B.

Many at Fort Jesup wished the local citizens of the area to know that

the personnel at Fort Jesup was useful in ways other than military.

The Natchitoches Courier

Fort Jesup

Natchitoches, Louisiana

March 13, 1826

Captain Berch and Lieutenant Lee with a detachment of men from Fort

Jesup, have been up the Red River examining the great rafts of debris

which block the channel of Red River. This detachment returned a few

days ago after an absence on that duty of about two months. We have

conversed with these scientific and learned gentlemen on the subject

of their excursion, the object of which was to ascertain the

practicability of opening steamboat traffic through or around these

obstructions.

They report that in a distance of one hundred miles above the Town of

Natchitoches, there are 181 log jams, ranging from ten yards in length

to a distance of one-half mile. To clear these obstructions would be a

tremendous and expensive task.

I wish to be remindful that in as much as the Sabine River which lies

west of this place, usually maintains enough water to afford its usage

by steamboats. In these trying times such as exists between ourselves

and our neighbors to the west, I think it advisable that such an

excursion be made up the Sabine River, for military if not to mention

commercial purposes.

Signed: Colonel James B. Many,

Commander of the Southwest

Teritory, Fort Jesup,

Natchitoches, Louisiana.[13]

In the same newspaper on this date appeared the advertisement: “Just

arrived on the Steamship-Packet, _Superior_, Captain Alex Le Sardo,

Master.”

And in the same paper on the same date was an advertisement of John

Baldwin’s Store on El Camino Real:

“Liquors—Maderia, Teneriff, Malaga, Claret wines, Cognac, Brandy,

Holland and English Gins, West Indian Rum, Old and Common whiskey,

coffee and tea. Loaf lump and brown sugar. 100 sacks of salt. Boots,

Shoes and Headwear. Cravats, Shawls, Collars and Cuffs (In Sets),

Handkerchiefs and Lace. Belts, Ribbons and Buckles. Full and half

cotton and wool hose. Mosquito bars. English gingham. Satins—black and

blue. Bleached and unbleached cotton shirting. Modes de Fasion

Casimers, Fancy Calicoes, Superior, friction-matches. Arm and Leg

Garters.

Medicines ½ bbl. of hops, Jujube and Pectoral pastes, Swain’s Panacea,

Stillman’s Sasparilla pills, Liverwort, Arrowroot, Horehound, Southern

Cough drops, New England Cough Syrup, Oldridge’s Balm-Columbia,

Lavender Water and Rose Water.

Ready to wear trousers and overcoats from $1.00 to $25.00. Tobacco for

chewing and smoking. Extra sweet Havana cigars.

Exquisite Organdies and Embroideries.

Harness Buckles and Pistols. Also Suspenders and Corsets, $1.00 each.

John Baldwin with his wife and two daughters must have established their

store prior to 1826. The location of the Baldwin Store marked the site

of the later town of Many, Louisiana, which derives its name from

Colonel James B. Many. Baldwin’s Store, Tavern, Inn and Blacksmith Shop

comprised the area of the Stille home and the present sites of the

Sabine State Bank & Trust Co., and The Peoples State Bank in Many.

During this period Manuel and Jose Chellettre operated the “Two

Brothers’ Freight Line” between Natchitoches and Nacogdoches. Also at

this time the firm of Barr and Davenport had a freight line service

between the same two destinations.

The newspaper also listed the names of the steamboats which were vying

for the Natchitoches-Texas trade: _The Florence_, _The Superior_, _The

Alexander_, _The Chesapeak_, _The Courtland_, _The Eliza_, _The Governor

Shelby_, _The Hornet_, _The Kiamechi_, _The Plaquemine_, _The Raven_,

_The Teche_, _The Telegraph_, _The Shepardess_ and _The Arkansas_.

Henry Stoker, having received a government land grant, had by now

established his home, and he enlarged his holdings by trading eleven

horses for land belonging to several families of the Adais Indians who

were living near his homestead.

Fort Jesup during its existence trained such men as Second Lieutenant

Phil Sheridan, Lieutenant Thomas Lawson, Captain Bragg, Lt. L. B. E.

Bonneville, Lt. James E. Goins, Captain Davie E. Twiggs, Capt. J.

Hardee, and Lt. Rufus Ingalls. These men during the war between the

states, became generals either for the North or the South. Lieutenant U.

S. Grant, who was stationed at Camp Salubrity near Grand Ecore, was

often a visitor at Fort Jesup.

[Illustration: Map of Area Around Camp Sabine—1836]

Such important men as David Crockett, James Bowie, Stephen F. Austin and

Sam Houston; and such famous scouts as Ben S. Lilly and “Big Foot”

Wallace visited there. Because they were welcomed and entertained at

Fort Jesup, accusations were made by the Spanish that Fort Jesup was a

meeting place for those planning the overthrow of the Mexican

government. And this may very well have been true, for supplies

necessary for the conduct of the war for Texas independence undoubtedly

passed through Fort Jesup.

There is evidence that the United States did render secret support to

the fighting Texans in their struggle for independence. This fort at

such a strategic location could have blocked revolutionary movements in

this frontier area if it had chosen to do so. Because of this Fort Jesup

became recognized as the heart of the Texas-Mexican revolution. The

garrison at Fort Jesup assisted by checking the border Indians of

Louisiana, Arkansas and northern Texas, who may have otherwise aided the

Mexican forces against the retreating Sam Houston just before the Battle

of San Jacinto.