CHAPTER XXVIII.

DEATH, AND FUNERAL RITES.

When a learned or pious Muslim feels that he is about to die, he

sometimes performs the ordinary ablution, as before prayer, that he may

depart from life in a state of bodily purity; and generally he repeats

the profession of the faith, “There is no deity but God: Mohammad is

God’s Apostle.” It is common, also, for a Muslim, on a military

expedition, or during a long journey, especially in the desert, to carry

his grave-linen with him. Not unfrequently does it happen that a

traveller, in such circumstances, has even to make his own grave:

completely overcome by fatigue or privation, or sinking under a fatal

disease, in the desert, when his companions, if he have any, cannot wait

for his recovery or death, he performs the ablution (with water, if

possible, or, if not, with sand or dust, which is allowable in such

case), and then, having made a trench in the sand, as his grave, lies

down in it, wrapped in his grave-clothes, and covers himself, with the

exception of his face, with the sand taken up in making the trench; thus

he waits for death to relieve him, trusting to the wind to complete his

burial.

When any one of the eminent ’Ulama of Cairo dies, the muëddins of the

Azhar, and those of several other mosques, announce the event by

chanting from the mád’nehs the cry called the “Abrár;” the words of

which I have given in the account of the customs observed during

Ramadán, in the second of the chapters on periodical public festivals,

etc.

The ceremonies attendant upon death and burial are nearly the same in

the cases of men and women. When the rattles in the throat, or other

symptoms, show that a man is at the point of death, an attendant (his

wife, or some other person) turns him round to place his face in the

direction of Mekkeh,[610] and closes his eyes. Even before the spirit

has departed, or the moment after, the male attendants generally

exclaim, “Alláh! There is no strength nor power but in God! To God we

belong; and to Him we must return! God have mercy on him!” while the

women of the family raise the cries of lamentation called “welwel’eh” or

“wilwál;” uttering the most piercing shrieks, and calling upon the name

of the deceased. The most common cries that are heard on the death of

the master of a family, from the lips of his wife, or wives, and

children, are “O my master!” “O my camel!” (that is, “O thou who

broughtest my provisions, and hast carried my burdens,”) “O my lion!” “O

camel of the house!” “O my glory!” “O my resource!” “O my father!” “O my

misfortune!”—The clothes of the deceased are taken off as soon as he has

ceased to breathe; and he is attired in another suit, placed on his bed

or mattress, and covered over with a sheet. The women continue their

lamentations; and many of the females of the neighbourhood, hearing the

conclamation, come to unite with them in this melancholy task.

Generally, also, the family of the deceased send for two or more

“neddábehs” (or public wailing women[611]); but some persons disapprove

of this custom; and many, to avoid unnecessary expense, do not conform

with it. Each neddábeh brings with her a “tár” (or tambourine), which is

without the tinkling plates of metal which are attached to the hoop of

the common tár. The neddábehs, beating their társ, exclaim, several

times, “Alas for him!”—and praise his turban, his handsome person, etc.;

and the female relations, domestics, and friends of the deceased (with

their tresses dishevelled, and sometimes with rent clothes), beating

their own faces, cry in like manner, “Alas for him!”—This wailing is

generally continued at least an hour.

If the death took place in the morning, the corpse is buried the same

day;[612] but if it happened in the afternoon, or at night, the deceased

is not buried until the following day: in this case, the neddábehs

remain all the night, and continue the lamentation with the other women;

and a fikee is brought to the house to recite chapters of the Kur-án

during the night; or several fikees are employed to perform a complete

khatmeh.

The “mughassil” (or washer of the dead) soon comes, with a bench, upon

which he places the corpse, and a bier.[613] The fikees who are to take

part in the funeral procession (if the deceased were a person of

respectable rank, or of the middle order) are also now brought to the

house. These, during the process of washing, sit in an apartment

adjoining that in which the corpse is placed, or without the door of the

latter apartment; and some of them recite, or rather chant, the “Soorat

el-An’ám” (or 6th chapter of the Kur-án): others of them chant part of

the “Burdeh,” a celebrated poem in praise of the Prophet. The washer

takes off the clothes of the deceased, which are his perquisite. The jaw

is bound up; and the eyes are closed. The ordinary ablution preparatory

to prayer having been performed upon the corpse, with the exception of

the washing of the mouth and nose, the whole body is well washed, from

head to foot, with warm water and soap, and with “leef” (or fibres of

the palm-tree); or, more properly, with water in which some leaves of

the lote-tree (“nabk,” or “sidr”) have been boiled.[614] The nostrils,

ears, etc., are stuffed with cotton; and the corpse is sprinkled with a

mixture of water, pounded camphor, and dried and pounded leaves of the

nabk, and with rose-water. Sometimes, other dried and pounded leaves are

added to those of the nabk. The ankles are bound together, and the hands

placed upon the breast.

The “kefen,” or grave-clothing, of a poor man consists of a piece or two

of cotton;[615] or is merely a kind of bag. The corpse of a man of

wealth is generally wrapped first in muslin, then in cotton cloth of

thicker texture; next, in a piece of striped stuff of silk and cotton

intermixed, or in a kuftán of similar stuff, merely stitched together;

and over these is wrapped a Kashmeer shawl. The corpse of a woman of

middling rank is usually clothed with a yelek. The colours most approved

for the grave-clothes are white and green; but any colour is used,

excepting blue, or what approaches to blue.—The body, prepared for

interment, as above described, is placed in the bier, which is usually

covered over with a red or other Kashmeer shawl. The persons who are to

compose the funeral-procession then arrange themselves in order.—The

more common funeral-processions may be thus described.

The first persons are about six or more poor men, called “Yemeneeyeh;”

mostly blind, who proceed two and two, or three and three, together.

Walking at a moderate pace, or rather slowly, they chant incessantly, in

a melancholy tone, the profession of faith (“There is no deity but God:

Mohammad is God’s Apostle: God favour and preserve him!”); as follows:—

[Stanza]

[Stanza]

[Stanza]

Lá i - lá - ha il - la-l láh: Mo - ham - ma-

dur ra - - soo - lu-l - láh: Sal - la-l-

lá - hu ’a - ley - hi wa - sel -lem!

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[Illustration: FUNERAL PROCESSION.]

_Lane’s Modern Egyptians_] [_Page 477_

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or sometimes other words. They are followed by some male relations and

friends of the deceased, and, in many cases, by two or more persons of

some sect of darweeshes, bearing the flags of their order. This is a

general custom at the funeral of a darweesh. Next follow three or four

or more schoolboys; one of whom carries a “mus-haf” (or copy of the

Kur-án), or a volume consisting of one of the thirty sections of the

Kur-án, placed upon a kind of desk formed of palm-sticks, and covered

over, generally with an embroidered kerchief. These boys chant, in a

higher and livelier voice than the Yemeneeyeh, usually some words of a

poem called the “Hashreeyeh,” descriptive of the events of the last day,

the judgment, etc.; to the air here noted.

[Stanza]

Sub - há - na men an - sha-s - su - war Wa-

’a-l - ’e - bád[616] bi-l - mót ka - har.

The following is a translation of the commencement of this poem:—

“[I extol] the perfection of Him who hath created whatever hath form;

And subdued His servants by death:

Who bringeth to nought [all] His creatures, with mankind:

They shall all lie in the graves:

The perfection of the Lord of the east:[617]

The perfection of the Lord of the west:[618]

The perfection of the illuminator of the two lights;

The sun, to wit, and the moon:

His perfection: how bountiful is He!

His perfection: how clement is He!

His perfection: how great is He!

When a servant rebelleth against Him, He protecteth.”

The school-boys immediately precede the bier, which is borne

head-foremost. Three or four friends of the deceased usually carry it

for a short distance: then three or four other friends bear it a little

farther; and then these are in like manner relieved. Casual passengers

also often take part in this service, which is esteemed highly

meritorious. Behind the bier walk the female mourners; sometimes a group

of more than a dozen, or twenty; with their hair dishevelled, though

generally concealed by the head-veil; crying and shrieking, as before

described; and often the hired mourners accompany them, celebrating the

praises of the deceased. Among the women, the relations and domestics of

the deceased are each distinguished by a strip of linen or cotton stuff

or muslin, generally blue, bound round the head, and tied in a single

knot behind, the ends hanging down a few inches.[619] Each of these also

carries a handkerchief, usually dyed blue; which she sometimes holds

over her shoulders, and at other times twirls with both hands over her

head, or before her face. The cries of the women, the lively chanting of

the youths, and the deep tones uttered by the Yemeneeyeh, compose a

strange discord.

The wailing of women at funerals was forbidden by the Prophet; and so,

also, was the celebration of the virtues of the deceased. Mohammad

declared, that the virtues thus ascribed to a dead person would be

subjects of reproach to him, if he did not possess them, in a future

state. It is astonishing to see how some of the precepts of the Prophet

are every day violated by all classes of the modern Muslims; the

Wahhábees alone excepted.—I have sometimes seen mourning women of the

lower classes, following a bier, having their faces (which were bare),

and their head-coverings and bosoms, besmeared with mud.[620]

The funeral-procession of a man of wealth, or of a person of the middle

classes, is sometimes preceded by three or four or more camels, bearing

bread and water to give to the poor at the tomb; and is composed of a

more numerous and varied assemblage of persons. The foremost of these

are the Yemeneeyeh, who chant the profession of the faith, as described

above. They are generally followed by some male friends of the deceased,

and some learned and devout persons who have been invited to attend the

funeral. Next follows a group of four or more fikees, chanting the

“Soorat el-Anám” (the 6th chapter of the Kur-án); and sometimes, another

group, chanting the “Soorat Yá-Seen” (the 36th chapter); another,

chanting the “Soorat el-Kahf” (the 18th chapter); and another, chanting

the “Soorat ed-Dukhán” (the 44th chapter). These are followed by some

munshids, singing the “Burdeh;” and these by certain persons called

“As-háb el-Ahzáb,” who are members of religious orders founded by

celebrated sheykhs. There are generally four or more of the order of the

Hezb es-Sádát; a similar group of the Hezb Esh-Sházilee; and another of

the Hezb Esh-Shaaráwee: each group chants a particular form of prayer.

After them are generally borne two or more half-furled flags, the

banners of one or other of the principal orders of darweeshes. Then

follow the schoolboys, the bier, and the female mourners, as in the

procession before described; and, perhaps, the led horses of the

bearers, if these be men of rank. A buffalo, to be sacrificed at the

tomb, where its flesh is to be distributed to the poor, sometimes closes

the procession.

The funeral of a devout sheykh, or of one of the great Ulama, is still

more numerously attended; and the bier of such a person is not covered

with a shawl. A “welee” is further honoured in his funeral by a

remarkable custom. Women follow his bier; but, instead of wailing, as

they would after the corpse of an ordinary mortal, they rend the air

with the shrill and quavering cries of joy called “zagháreet;” and if

these cries are discontinued but for a minute, the bearers of the bier

protest that they cannot proceed; that a supernatural power rivets them

to the spot on which they stand. Very often, it is said, a welee impels

the bearers of his corpse to a particular spot.—The following anecdote,

describing an ingenious mode of puzzling a dead saint in a case of this

kind, was related to me by one of my friends.—Some men were lately

bearing the corpse of a welee to a tomb prepared for it in the great

cemetery on the north of the metropolis; but, on arriving at the gate

called Báb en-Nasr, which leads to this cemetery, they found themselves

unable to proceed farther from the cause above mentioned. “It seems,”

said one of the bearers, “that the sheykh is determined not to be buried

in the cemetery of Báb en-Nasr: and what shall we do?” They were all

much perplexed: but being as obstinate as the saint himself, they did

not immediately yield to his caprice. Retreating a few paces, and then

advancing with a quick step, they thought, by such an impetus, to force

the corpse through the gateway; but their efforts were unsuccessful; and

the same experiment they repeated in vain several times. They then

placed the bier on the ground to rest and consult; and one of them,

beckoning away his comrades to a distance beyond the hearing of the dead

saint, said to them, “Let us take up the bier again, and turn it round

quickly several times till the sheykh becomes giddy; he then will not

know in what direction we are going, and we may take him easily through

the gate.” This they did; the saint was puzzled as they expected; and

quietly buried in the place which he had so striven to avoid.

The biers used for the conveyance of the corpses of females and boys are

different from those of men. They are furnished with a cover of wood,

over which a shawl is spread, as over the bier of a man; and at the head

is an upright piece of wood, called a “sháhid.” The sháhid is covered

with a shawl; and to the upper part of it, when the bier is used to

convey the body of a female of the middle or higher class, several

ornaments of female head-dress are attached: on the top, which is flat

and circular, is often placed a “kurs” (the round ornament of gold or

silver set with diamonds, or of embossed gold, which is worn on the

crown of the head-dress): to the back is suspended the “safa” (or a

number of braids of black silk with gold ornaments along each, which are

worn by the ladies, in addition to their plaits of hair, hanging down

the back). The bier of a boy is distinguished by a turban, generally

formed of a red Kashmeer shawl, wound round the top of the sháhid;

which, in the case of a young boy, is also often decorated with the kurs

and safa. The corpse of a very young child is carried to the tomb in the

arms of a man, and merely covered with a shawl; or, in a very small bier

borne on a mans head.

In the funerals of females and boys, the bier is usually only preceded

by the Yemeneeyeh, chanting the profession of faith, and by some male

relations of the deceased; and followed by the female mourners; unless

the deceased were of a family of wealth, or of considerable station in

the world; in which case, the funeral-procession is distinguished by

some additional display. I shall give a short description of one of the

most genteel and decorous funerals of this kind that I have witnessed:

it was that of a young, unmarried lady.—Two men, each bearing a large,

furled, green flag, headed the procession, preceding the Yemeneeyeh, who

chanted in an unusually low and solemn manner. These fakeers, who were

in number about eight, were followed by a group of fikees, chanting a

chapter of the Kur-án. Next after the latter was a man bearing a large

branch of “nabk” (or lote-tree), an emblem of the deceased.[621] On each

side of him walked a person bearing a tall staff or cane, to the top of

which were attached several hoops ornamented with strips of

various-coloured paper. These were followed by two Turkish soldiers,

side by side; one bearing, on a small round tray, a gilt silver “kumkum”

of rose-water; and the other bearing, on a similar tray, a “mibkhar′ah”

of gilt silver, in which some odoriferous substance (as benzoin, or

frankincense) was burning. These vessels diffused the odour of their

contents on the way; and were afterwards used to perfume the sepulchral

vault. Passengers were occasionally sprinkled with the rose-water. Next

followed four men, each of whom bore, upon a small tray, several small

lighted tapers of wax, stuck in lumps of paste of “henna.” The bier was

covered with rich shawls; and its sháhid was decorated with handsome

ornaments of the head; having, besides the safa, a “kussah almás” (a

long ornament of gold and diamonds, worn over the forehead), and, upon

its flat top, a rich diamond kurs. These were the jewels of the

deceased; or were perhaps, as is often the case, borrowed for the

occasion. The female mourners, in number about seven or eight, clad in

the usual manner of the ladies of Egypt (with the black silk covering,

etc.), followed the bier, not on foot, as is the common custom in

funerals in this country, but mounted on high-saddled asses; and only

the last two or three of them were wailing; these being, probably, hired

mourners.—In another funeral-procession of a female, the daughter of a

Turk of high rank, the Yemeneeyeh were followed by six black slaves,

walking two by two. The first two slaves bore each a silver kumkum of

rose-water, which they sprinkled on the passengers; and one of them

honoured me so profusely as to wet my dress very uncomfortably; after

which, he poured a small quantity into my hands; and I wetted my face

with it, according to custom. Each of the next two bore a silver

mibkhar′ah, with perfume; and the other two carried each a silver ázkee

(or hanging censer), with burning charcoal and frankincense. The jewels

on the sháhid of the bier were of a costly description. Eleven ladies,

mounted on high-saddled asses, together with several neddábehs,

followed.

The rites and ceremonies performed in the mosque, and at the tomb, and

after the funeral, remain to be described.—If the deceased died in any

of the northern quarters of the metropolis, the body is usually carried,

in preference, to the mosque of the Hasaneyn; unless he were a poor man,

not residing near to that venerated sanctuary; in which case, his

friends generally carry his corpse to any neighbouring mosque, to save

time, and avoid unnecessary expense. If he were one of the ulama (that

is, of a learned profession, however humble), his corpse is usually

taken to the great mosque El-Azhar. The people of the southern parts of

the metropolis generally carry their dead to the mosque of the seyyideh

Zeyneb, or to that of any other celebrated saint. The reason of choosing

such mosques in preference to others, is the belief that the prayers

offered up at the tombs of very holy persons are especially successful.

The bier, being brought into the mosque, is laid upon the floor, in the

usual place of prayer, with the right side towards the kibleh, or the

direction of Mekkeh. The “Imám” of the mosque stands before the left

side of the bier, facing it and the kibleh; and a servant of the mosque,

as a “muballigh” (to repeat the words of the Imám), at the feet. The

attendants of the funeral range themselves behind the Imám; the women

standing apart, behind the men; for on this occasion they are seldom

excluded from the mosque. The congregation being thus disposed, the Imám

commences the prayer over the dead; prefacing it with these

words:[622]—“I purpose reciting the prayer of four ‘tekbeers,’[623] the

funeral-prayer, over the deceased Muslim here present:”—or—“the deceased

Muslims here present:” for two or more corpses are often prayed over at

the same time. Having said this, he exclaims (raising his open hands on

each side of his head, and touching the lobes of his ears with the

extremities of his thumbs), “God is most great!” The muballigh repeats

this exclamation; and each individual of the congregation behind the

Imám does the same; as they also do after the subsequent tekbeers. The

Imám then recites the Fát’hah; and a second time exclaims, “God is most

great!” after which he adds, “O God, favour our lord Mohammad, the

Illiterate Prophet, and his Family and Companions, and preserve

them”—and the third time exclaims, “God is most great!” He then says, “O

God, verily this is thy servant and son of Thy servant: he hath departed

from the repose of the world, and from its amplitude,[624] and from

whatever he loved, and from those by whom he was loved in it, to the

darkness of the grave, and to what he experienceth. He did testify that

there is no deity but Thou alone: that Thou hast no companion: and that

Mohammad is thy servant and thine apostle; and Thou art all-knowing

respecting him. O God, he hath gone to abide with Thee; and Thou art the

best with whom to abide. He hath become in need of Thy mercy; and Thou

hast no need of his punishment. We have come to Thee, supplicating that

we may intercede for him. O God, if he were a doer of good, over-reckon

his good deeds; and if he were an evil-doer, pass over his evil doings;

and of Thy mercy grant that he may experience Thine acceptance; and

spare him the trial of the grave, and its torment; and make his grave

wide to him; and keep back the earth from his sides;[625] and of Thy

mercy grant that he may experience security from Thy torment, until Thou

send him safely to Thy Paradise, O Thou most merciful of those who show

mercy!” Then, for the fourth and last time, the Imám exclaims, “God is

most great!”—adding,—“O God, deny us not our reward for him [for the

service we have done him]; and lead us not into trial after him: pardon

us and him and all the Muslims, O Lord of all creatures!”—Thus he

finishes his prayer; greeting the angels on his right and left with the

salutation of “Peace be on you, and the mercy of God;” as is done at the

close of the ordinary prayers. Then, addressing the persons present, he

says, “Give your testimony respecting him.” They reply, “He was of the

virtuous.”—The bier is now taken up; and if it be in the mosque of the

Hasaneyn, or in that of any other celebrated saint, that the prayer has

been performed, it is placed before the “maksoorah” (the screen or

railing that surrounds the sepulchral monument or cenotaph). Here, some

of the fikees and others who have attended the funeral recite the

Fát’hah, and the last three verses of the “Soorat el-Bakarah” (or 2nd

chapter of the Kur-án); beginning, “Whatever is in heaven and on earth

is God’s.”—These rites performed, the funeral-train proceeds with the

corpse, in the same order as before, to the burial-ground.[626]

Here I must give a short description of a tomb.—It is an oblong vault,

having an arched roof; and is generally constructed of brick, and

plastered. It is made hollow, in order that the person or persons buried

in it may be able with ease to sit up when visited and examined by the

two angels, “Munkar” (vulgarly “Nákir”) and “Nekeer.” One side faces the

direction of Mekkeh; that is, the south-east. At the foot, which is to

the north-east, is the entrance; before which is constructed a small

square cell, roofed with stones extending from side to side, to prevent

the earth from entering the vault. This is covered over with earth. The

vault is generally made large enough to contain four or more bodies. If

males and females be buried in the same vault, which is not commonly the

case, a partition is built to separate the corpses of one sex from those

of the other. Over the vault is constructed an oblong monument (called

“tarkeebeh”), of stone or brick, with a stela, or upright stone (called

a “sháhid”), at the head and foot. The stelæ are mostly plain; but some

of them are ornamented; and that at the head is often inscribed with a

text from the Kur-án,[627] and the name of the deceased, with the date

of his death. A turban, cap, or other head-dress, is also sometimes

carved on the top of the head-stone; showing the rank or class of the

person or persons buried in the tomb.—Over the grave of an eminent

sheykh, or other person of note, a small square building, crowned with a

cupola, is generally erected.[628] Many of the tombs of Turkish and

Memlook grandees have marble tarkeebehs, which are canopied by cupolas

supported by four columns of marble; and have inscriptions in gilt

letters upon a ground of azure on the head-stone. There are numerous

tombs of this description in the great southern cemetery of Cairo. The

tombs of the Sultáns are mostly handsome mosques: some of these are

within the metropolis; and some, in the cemeteries in its environs.—I

now resume the description of the funeral.

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[Illustration: SKETCH OF A TOMB WITH THE ENTRANCE UNCOVERED.]

_Lane’s Modern Egyptians_] [_Page 484_

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The tomb having been opened before the arrival of the corpse, no delay

takes place in the burial. The sexton and two assistants take the corpse

out of the bier, and deposit it in the vault. Its bandages are untied;

and it is laid upon its right side, or so inclined that the face is

towards Mekkeh. It is supported in this position by a few crude bricks.

If the outer wrapper be a Kashmeer shawl, this is rent; lest its value

should tempt any profane person to violate the tomb. A little earth is

gently placed by and upon the corpse, by one or more persons: and the

entrance is closed by replacing the roofing-stones and earth over the

small cell before it. But one singular ceremony remains to be performed,

excepting in the case of a young child, who is not held responsible for

his actions: a fikee is employed to perform the office of a “mulakkin”

(or instructor of the dead):[629] sitting before the tomb, he says

generally as follows:—“O servant of God! O son of a handmaid of God!

know that, at this time, there will come down to thee two angels

commissioned respecting thee and the like of thee: when they say to

thee, ‘Who is thy Lord,’ answer them,‘God is my Lord,’ in truth; and

when they ask thee concerning thy Prophet, or the man who hath been sent

unto you, say to them, ‘Mohammad is the Apostle of God,’ with veracity;

and when they ask thee concerning thy religion, say to them, ‘El-Islám

is my religion;’ and when they ask thee concerning thy book of

direction, say to them, ‘The Kurán is my book of direction, and the

Muslims are my brothers;’ and when they ask thee concerning thy Kibleh,

say to them, ‘The Kaabeh is my Kibleh; and I have lived and died in the

assertion, that there is no deity but God, and Mohammad is God’s

Apostle:’ and they will say, ‘Sleep, O servant of God, in the protection

of God.’”—The soul is believed to remain with the body during the first

night after the burial; and on this night to be visited and examined,

and perhaps the body tortured, by the two angels above mentioned.—The

Yemeneeyeh and other persons hired to attend the funeral are paid at the

tomb: the former usually receive a piaster each. If the funeral be that

of a person of rank or wealth, two or three skins of water, and as many

camel-loads of bread, being conveyed to the burial ground, as before

mentioned, are there distributed, after the burial, to the poor, who

flock thither in great numbers, on such an occasion. It has also been

mentioned that a buffalo is sometimes slaughtered, and its flesh in like

manner distributed. This custom is called “el-kaffárah” (or the

expiation): being supposed to expiate some of the minor sins of the

deceased; but not great sins. The funeral ended, each of the near

relations of the deceased is greeted with a prayer that he may be

happily compensated for his loss; or is congratulated that his life is

prolonged.

The first night after the burial is called “Leylet el-Wahsheh” (or the

Night of Desolation); the place of the deceased being then left

desolate. On this night the following custom is observed:—At sunset, two

or three fikees are brought to the house: they take a repast of bread

and milk in the place where the deceased died; and then recite the

“Soorat el-Mulk” (or 67th chapter of the Kur-án). As the soul is

believed to remain with the body during the first night after the

burial, and then to depart to the place appointed for the residence of

good souls until the last day, or to the appointed prison in which

wicked souls await their final doom, this night is also called “Leylet

el-Wahdeh” (or the Night of Solitude).[630]

Another ceremony, called that of the “Sebhah” (or Rosary), is performed

on this occasion, to facilitate the entrance of the deceased into a

state of happiness: it usually occupies three or four hours. After the

“’eshë” (or nightfall), some fikees, sometimes as many as fifty,

assemble in the house; or, if there be not a court, or large apartment,

for their reception, some matting is spread for them to sit upon in

front of the house. One of them brings a sebhah composed of a thousand

beads; each about the size of a pigeon’s egg. They commence the ceremony

by reciting the “Soorat el-Mulk” (mentioned above); then say three

times, “God is one.” After this they recite the “Soorat el-Falak” (or

last chapter but one of the Kur-án), and the opening chapter (the

“Fát’hah”); and then three times say, “O God, favour, with the most

excellent favour, the most happy of thy creatures, our lord Mohammad,

and his Family and Companions, and preserve them:” to which they add,

“All who commemorate Thee are the mindful; and those who omit

commemorating Thee are the negligent.” They next repeat, thrice one

thousand times, “There is no deity but God;” one of them holding the

sebhah, and counting each repetition of these words by passing a bead

through his fingers. After each thousand repetitions they sometimes rest

and take coffee. Having completed the last thousand, and rested, and

refreshed themselves, they say, a hundred times, “[I extol] the

perfection of God, with his praise:” then, the same number of times, “I

beg forgiveness of God, the Great:” after which they say, fifty times,

“[I extol] the perfection of the Lord, the Eternal—the perfection of

God, the Eternal:” they then repeat these words of the Kur-án—“[Extol]

the perfection of thy Lord, the Lord of Might; exempting Him from that

which they [namely, Christians and others] ascribe to Him [that is, from

the having a son, or partaker of his godhead]; and peace be on the

Apostles; and praise be to God, the Lord of all creatures!”[631] Two or

three or more of them then recite, each, an “’ashr,” or about two or

three verses of the Kur-án. This done, one of them asks his companions,

“Have ye transferred [the merit of] what ye have recited to the soul of

the deceased?” They reply, “We have transferred it;” and add, “And peace

be on the Apostles,” etc., as above. This concludes the ceremony of the

sebhah, which, in the houses of the rich, is also repeated on the second

and third nights. This ceremony is likewise performed in a family on

their receiving intelligence of the death of a near relation.

The men make no alteration in their dress in token of mourning; nor do

the women on the death of an elderly man; but they do for others. In the

latter cases, they dye their shirts, head-veils, face-veils, and

handkerchiefs, of a blue, or of an almost black, colour, with indigo;

and some of them, with the same dye, stain their hands and their arms as

high as the elbow; and smear the walls of the chambers. When the master

of the house, or the owner of the furniture, is dead, and sometimes in

other cases, they also turn upside-down the carpets, mats, cushions, and

covering of the deewáns. In general, the women, while in mourning, leave

their hair unbraided, cease to wear some of their ornaments, and, if

they smoke, use common reed pipes.

Towards the close of the first Thursday after the funeral, and often,

early in the morning of this day, the women of the family of the

deceased again commence a wailing, in their house, accompanied by some

of their female friends; and in the afternoon or evening of this day,

male friends of the deceased also visit the house; and three or four

fikees are employed to perform a khatmeh.—On the Friday morning the

women repair to the tomb; where they observe the same customs which I

have described in speaking of the ceremonies performed on the two grand

“’eeds,” in the second of the chapters on periodical public festivals,

etc.; generally taking a palm-branch, to break up, and place on the

tomb; and some cakes or bread, to distribute to the poor. These

ceremonies are repeated on the same days of the next two weeks; and

again, on the Thursday and Friday which complete, or next follow, the

first period of forty days[632] after the funeral: whence this Friday is

called “el-Arba’-een,” or “Gum’at el-Arba’-een.”

It is customary among the peasants of Upper Egypt for the female

relations and friends of a person deceased to meet together by his house

on each of the first three days after the funeral, and there to perform

a lamentation and a strange kind of dance. They daub their faces and

bosoms, and part of their dress, with mud; and tie a rope girdle,

generally made of the coarse grass called “halfa,” round the waist.[633]

Each flourishes in her hand a palm-stick, or a nebboot (a long staff),

or a spear, or a drawn sword; and dances with a slow movement, and in an

irregular manner; generally pacing about, and raising and depressing the

body. This dance is continued for an hour or more; and is performed

twice or three times in the course of the day. After the third day, the

women visit the tomb, and place upon it their rope-girdles; and usually

a lamb, or a goat, is slain there, as an expiatory sacrifice, and a

feast made, on this occasion.

Having now described the manners and customs of the Muslims of Egypt in

the various stages and circumstances of life, from the period of infancy

to the tomb, I close my account of them, as a writer of their own nation

would in a similar case, with “thanks and praise to Him who dieth not.”

-----

Footnote 610:

Some Muslims turn the _head_ of the corpse in the direction of Mekkeh;

others, the _right side_, inclining the _face_ in that direction: the

latter, I believe, is the general custom.

Footnote 611:

See 2 Chron. xxxv. 25; Jer. ix. 17; and Matt. ix. 23.

Footnote 612:

The Egyptians have a superstitious objection to keep a corpse in the

house during the night after the death, and to burying the dead after

sunset; but the latter is sometimes done: I have witnessed one

instance of it.

Footnote 613:

It is hardly necessary to state that the corpse of a female is always

washed by a woman.

Footnote 614:

The leaves of the lote-tree, dried and pulverized, are often used by

the poor instead of soap.

Footnote 615:

The kefen is often sprinkled with water from the well of Zemzem, in

the Temple of Mekkeh.

Footnote 616:

“’A-l-’ebád” is a vulgar contraction, for “’ala-l-’ebád.”—It will be

observed (from the specimen here given, in the first two lines) that

this poem is not in the _literary_ dialect of Arabic.

Footnote 617:

Literally, “the two easts,” or “the two places of sunrise:” the point

where the sun rises in summer, and that where it rises in winter.

Footnote 618:

Or, “the two places of sunset.”

Footnote 619:

In the funeral scenes represented on the walls of ancient Egyptian

tombs, we often see females with a similar bandage round the head.

Footnote 620:

This was a custom of the ancient Egyptians: it is described by

Herodotus, lib. ii., cap. 85.—Passengers in the streets and roads,

when a corpse is borne by to the tomb, often say,—“God is most great!

God is most great! That is what God and his Apostle have promised: and

God and his Apostle have spoken truth. O God, increase our faith and

submission!”—The women, pointing with the finger at the bier, say,—“I

testify that there is no deity but God.”

Footnote 621:

This is only borne in funerals of young persons.

Footnote 622:

I give the form of prayer used by the Sháfe’ees, as being the most

common in Cairo. Those of the other sects are nearly similar to this.

Footnote 623:

A “tekbeer” has been explained in a former chapter, as being the

exclamation of “Alláhu Akbar” or “God is most great!”

Footnote 624:

Or, according to one of my sheykhs, “its business.”

Footnote 625:

It is believed that the body of the wicked is painfully oppressed by

the earth against its sides in the grave; though this is always made

hollow.

Footnote 626:

The burial-grounds of Cairo are mostly outside the town, in the desert

tracts on the north, east, and south. Those within the town are few,

and not extensive.

Footnote 627:

The Prophet forbade engraving the name of God, or any words of the

Kur-án, upon a tomb. He also directed that tombs should be low, and

built only of crude bricks.

Footnote 628:

Like that seen in the distance in the engraving here inserted.

Footnote 629:

The Málikees disapprove of this custom, the “talkeen” of the dead.

Footnote 630:

The opinions of the Muslims respecting the state of souls in the

interval between death and the judgment are thus given by Sale

(“Preliminary Discourse,” sect. iv.):—“They distinguish the souls of

the faithful into three classes: the first, of prophets, whose souls

are admitted into paradise immediately; the second, of martyrs, whose

spirits, according to a tradition of Mohammad, rest in the crops of

green birds, which eat of the fruits and drink of the rivers of

paradise; and the third, of other believers, concerning the state of

whose souls before the resurrection there are various opinions. For,

1. Some say that they stay near the sepulchres, with liberty, however,

of going where-ever they please; which they confirm from Mohammad’s

manner of saluting them at their graves, and his affirming that the

dead heard those salutations as well as the living. Whence perhaps

proceeded the custom of visiting the tombs of relations, so common

among the Mohammadans. 2. Others imagine they are with Adam in the

lowest heaven, and also support their opinion by the authority of

their prophet, who gave out that in his return from the upper heavens

in his pretended night-journey, he saw there the souls of those who

were destined to paradise on the right hand of Adam, and those who

were condemned to hell on his left. 3. Others fancy the souls of

believers remain in the well Zemzem, and those of infidels in a

certain well in the province of Hadramót, called Barahoot [so in the

Kámoos, but by Sale written Borhût]; but this opinion is branded as

heretical. 4. Others say they stay near the graves for seven days; but

that whither they go afterwards is uncertain. 5. Others, that they are

all in the trumpet, whose sound is to raise the dead. And, 6. Others,

that the souls of the good dwell in the forms of white birds, under

the throne of God. As to the condition of the souls of the wicked,

besides the opinions that have been already mentioned, the more

orthodox hold that they are offered by the angels to heaven, from

whence being repulsed as stinking and filthy, they are offered to the

earth; and being also refused a place there, are carried down to the

seventh earth, and thrown into a dungeon, which they call Sijjeen,

under a green rock, or, according to a tradition of Mohammad, under

the devil’s jaw, to be there tormented till they are called up to be

joined again to their bodies.” I believe that the opinion respecting

the Well of Barahoot commonly prevails in the present day.

Footnote 631:

Chapter xxxvii., last three verses.

Footnote 632:

See Genesis 1. 3.

Footnote 633:

As the ancient Egyptian women did in the same case.—See a passage in

Herodotus, before referred to, lib. ii., cap. 85.

----------------------------

SUPPLEMENT.

I.—THE COPTS.

The fame of that great nation from which the Copts mainly derive their

origin renders this people objects of much interest, especially to one

who has examined the wonderful monuments of Ancient Egypt: but so great

is the aversion with which, like their illustrious ancestors, they

regard all persons who are not of their own race, and so reluctant are

they to admit such persons to any familiar intercourse with them, that I

had almost despaired of gaining an insight into their religious, moral,

and social state. At length, however, I had the good fortune to become

acquainted with a character of which I had doubted the existence—a Copt

of a liberal as well as an intelligent mind; and to his kindness I am

indebted for the knowledge of most of the facts related in the following

brief memoir.

The Copts, at present, compose less than one fourteenth part of the

population of Egypt; their number being not more than about one hundred

and fifty thousand. About ten thousand of them reside in the metropolis.

In some parts of Upper Egypt are villages exclusively inhabited by

persons of this race; and the district called the Feiyoom particularly

abounds with them. The vast number of ruined convents and churches

existing in various parts of Egypt shows that the Copts were very

numerous a few centuries ago; but every year many of them have embraced

the faith of El-Islám, and become intermixed by marriage with Muslims;

and thus the number of genuine and Christian Copts has been reduced to

its present small amount.

The Copts are undoubtedly descendants of the ancient Egyptians; but not

an unmixed race; their ancestors in the earlier ages of Christianity

having intermarried with Greeks, Nubians, Abyssinians, and other

foreigners. Their name is correctly pronounced either “Kubt” or “Kibt;”

but more commonly, “Gubt” or “Gibt,” and (in Cairo and its

neighbourhood, and in some other parts of Egypt), “’Ubt” or “’Ibt:” in

the singular it is pronounced “Kubtee, Kibtee, Gubtee, Gibtee, ’Ubtee,”

or “’Ibtee.” All of these sounds bear a great resemblance to the ancient

Greek name of Egypt (Αίγυπτος): but it is generally believed that the

name of “Kubt” is derived from “Coptos” (once a great city in Upper

Egypt), now called “Kuft,” or, more commonly, “Guft;” to which vast

numbers of the Christian Egyptians retired during the persecution with

which their sect was visited under several of the Roman Emperors. The

Copts have not altogether lost their ancient language; their liturgy and

several of their religious books being written in it: but the Coptic has

become a dead language, understood by very few persons; and the Arabic

has been adopted in its stead.

With respect to their personal characteristics, we observe some striking

points of resemblance, and yet, upon the whole, a considerable

difference, between the Copts and the ancient Egyptians, judging of the

latter from the paintings and sculptures in their tombs and temples. The

difference is, however, easily accounted for by the fact of the

intermarriages of the ancestors of the modern Copts with foreigners,

above mentioned. The people who bear the greatest resemblance to the

ancient Egyptians, at present, are the Noobeh (or more genuine Nubians);

and next to these, the Abyssinians and the Copts; who are,

notwithstanding, much unlike each other. The Copts differ but little

from the generality of their Muslim countrymen: the latter being chiefly

descended from Arabs and from Copts who have embraced the faith of the

Arabs, and having thus become assimilated to the Copts in features. I

find it difficult, sometimes, to perceive any difference between a Copt

and a Muslim Egyptian, beyond a certain downcast and sullen expression

of countenance which generally marks the former; and the Muslims

themselves are often deceived when they see a Copt in a white turban. We

observe, in the latter, the same shades of complexion, in different

latitudes of the country, as in the former; varying from a pale

yellowish colour to a deep bronze or brown. The eyes of the Copt are

generally large and elongated, slightly inclined from the nose upwards,

and always black: the nose is straight, excepting at the end, where it

is rounded, and wide: the lips are rather thick; and the hair is black

and curly. The Copts are, generally speaking, somewhat under the middle

size; and so, as it appears from the mummies, were the ancient

Egyptians. Their women, of the higher and middle classes in particular,

blacken the edges of their eyelids with kohl; and those of the lower

orders tattoo blue marks upon their faces, hands, etc., in the same

manner as other Egyptian females, but usually introduce the cross among

these ornaments. Most of the Copts circumcise their sons; and another

practice which prevailed among their pagan ancestors, mentioned by

Strabo, and alluded to in a note subjoined to page 48 of this work, is

observed among the Copts without exception.

The dress of the Copts is similar to that of the Muslim Egyptians;

excepting that the proper turban of the former is black or blue, or of a

greyish or light-brown colour; and such Copts as wear cloth generally

choose dull colours, and often wear a black cotton gown, or loose shirt,

over their cloth and silk dress. In the towns, they are usually careful

thus to distinguish themselves from the Muslims; but in the villages,

many of them wear the white or red turban. Other Christians, and Jews

who are subjects of the Turkish Sultán, are distinguished from the

Muslims in the same manner; but not all: many Armenians, Greeks, and

Syrian Christians wear the white turban. Subjects of European Christian

powers are allowed to do the same, and to adopt altogether the Turkish

dress. The occasions which originally caused the Copts to be

distinguished by the black and blue turbans will be mentioned in some

historical notes respecting this people hereafter.—The Copt women veil

their faces, not only in public, but also in the house, when any men,

excepting their near relations, are present. The unmarried ladies, and

females of the lower orders, in public, generally wear the white veil:

the black veil is worn by the more respectable of the married ladies;

but the white is adopted by many, from a desire to imitate the

Muslim′ehs.

The Copts, with the exception of a small proportion who profess the

Romish or the Greek faith, are Christians of the sect called Jacobites,

Eutychians, Monophysites, and Monothelites; whose creed was condemned by

the Council of Chalcedon, in the reign of the Emperor Marcion. They

received the appellation of “Jacobites” (“Ya’ákibeh,” or “Yaakoobees”),

by which they are generally known, from Jacobus Baradæus, a Syrian, who

was a chief propagator of the Eutychian doctrines. Those who adhered to

the Greek faith were distinguished from the former by the name of

“Melekites” (“Melekeeyeh,” or “Melekees”), that is to say, “Royalists,”

because they agreed in faith with the Emperor of Constantinople. The

secession of the great majority of the Copts from what was generally

considered the orthodox Church gave rise to an implacable enmity between

them and the Greeks, under whom they suffered much persecution, and with

whom they would no longer even contract marriages. This enmity was, of

course, more bitter on the part of the Copts: they gladly received the

Arab invaders of their country, and united with them to expel the

Greeks. Their revenge was gratified; but they were made to bow their

necks to a heavier yoke: yet the hatred with which even the modern Copts

regard the Greeks and all other Christians who are not of their own sect

is much greater than that which they bear towards the Muslims.—Saint

Mark, they assert, was the first who preached the Gospel in Egypt; and

they regard him as the first Patriarch of Alexandria. The Nubians and

Abyssinians embraced Christianity soon after the Egyptians; and,

following the same example, they adopted the Jacobite doctrines. The

Nubians, however, have become Muslims; and boast that there is not a

single Christian among their race, and that they will never allow one to

live among them; for, as they are more ignorant, so are they also more

bigoted, than the generality of Muslims. In Abyssinia, Jacobite

Christianity is still the prevailing religion.

The religious orders of the Coptic Church consist of a Patriarch, a

Metropolitan of the Abyssinians, Bishops, Archpriests, Priests, Deacons,

and Monks.

The Patriarch (“el-Batrak”) is the supreme head of the church; and

occupies the chair of Saint Mark. He generally resides in Cairo; but is

styled “Patriarch of Alexandria.” He is chosen from among the order of

monks; with whose regulations he continues to comply; and it is a point

of these regulations that he remains unmarried. He is obliged to wear

woollen garments next his body; but these are of the finest and softest

quality, like the shawls of Kashmeer; and are concealed by habits of

rich silks and cloth. So rigid are the rules with which he is obliged to

conform, that, whenever he sleeps, he is waked after every quarter of an

hour.[634] A patriarch may be appointed by his predecessor; but,

generally, he is chosen by lot; and always from among the monks of the

Convent of Saint Anthony (“Deyr Antooniyoos”), in the Eastern Desert of

Egypt, near the western Gulf of the Red Sea. The bishops and principal

priests, when a patriarch is to be elected, apply to the superior of the

convent above mentioned, who names about eight or nine monks whom he

considers qualified for the high office of head of the Church: the names

of these persons are written, each upon a separate slip of paper, which

pieces of paper are then rolled into the form of little balls, and put

into a drawer: a priest draws one, without looking; and the person whose

name is thus drawn is invested as patriarch. Formerly, a young child was

employed to draw the lot; being supposed to be more under the direction

of heaven.

The property at the disposal of the patriarch is very considerable: it

chiefly consists in houses; and can only be employed for pious uses.

Modern patriarchs have done little more than augment their property:

generally, when a Copt sells a house in Cairo, the patriarch bids for

it; and no one ventures to bid against him; so that the owner of the

house is obliged to part with it for considerably less than its just

value.

The patriarch and bishops wear a turban of a wider and rounder form than

those of other persons; much resembling the mukleh of the Muslim ’Ulama;

but of the same dark colour as those of the other Copts.

The Metropolitan of the Abyssinians (“el-Matrán”) is appointed by the

Patriarch. He retains his office for life; and resides in Abyssinia.

A bishop (“Uskuf”) is generally (or, I am told, always) chosen from

among the monks; and continues, like the patriarch, to conform with

their regulations. The canons of the Church do not require that bishops

should be monks; but unmarried men, or widowers, were formerly always

chosen for the episcopal office. The number of bishops is twelve.

An Archpriest (“Kummus”) is elevated from the order of common priests.

The archpriests are numerous.

A priest (“Kasees”) must have been a deacon: he must be without bodily

defect, at least thirty-three years of age, and a person who has never

married, or who has married but one wife, and taken that wife a virgin,

and married her before he became a priest; for he cannot marry after. If

a priest’s wife die, he cannot marry again; nor is the widow of a priest

allowed to marry a second husband. A priest may be of the order of

monks; and, consequently, unmarried. He is supported only by alms, and

by what he obtains through his own industry. Both priests and deacons

are ordained either by the Patriarch or by a bishop. The priests wear a

turban formed of a long narrow band. This was worn, a few years ago, by

all the Copts in Cairo: a desire to imitate the Muslims has made them

change the style.

A Deacon (“Shemmás”) must be either unmarried, or a person who has only

once married, to a virgin bride. If he take a second wife, or marry a

widow, he loses his office. He may be of the order of monks, as appears

from what has been said above.

A Monk (“Ráhib”) must have submitted to a long trial of his patience and

piety, and made a vow of celibacy, before his admission into the

monastic order. He usually performs menial and arduous services,

previously to his admission, for a year, or a year and a half, in some

sequestered convent in the desert. He is generally employed in fetching

wood and water, sweeping the convent, etc., and waiting upon the monks;

and expends all his property (if he have any) in the purchase of clothes

and other necessaries for the monks and the poor in general. If, after a

sufficient service, he persevere in his resolution, he is admitted. The

prayers of the dead are recited over him, to celebrate his death to the

world; and it has been said that, when he dies, he is buried without

prayer; but I am informed that this is not the case. The monks are very

numerous, and there are many nuns. They lead a life of great austerity;

and are obliged always to wear woollen garments next the body. Every

monk is distinguished by a strip of woollen stuff, of a deep blue or

black colour, about four inches wide, attached beneath the turban and

hanging down the back to the length of about a foot.[635] A woollen

shirt is generally the only article of dress worn by the monks, beside

the turban. They eat two meals in the course of the day, at noon and in

the evening; but, if living in a convent, seldom anything more than

lentils; as most of their convents are in the desert: on feast-days,

however, they eat flesh, if it be procurable. The number of convents and

churches is said to be a hundred and forty-six;[636] but the former are

few in comparison with the latter.

The Coptic Church recommends baptizing boys at the age of forty days,

and girls at the age of eighty days, if they continue so long well and

healthy; but earlier if they be ill, and in apparent danger of death:

for it is a prevailing belief among the Copts, that, if a child die

unbaptized, it will be blind in the next life, and the parents are held

guilty of a sin, for which they must do penance, either by repeating

many prayers, or by fasting: yet people of the lower orders, if living

at an inconvenient distance from a church, and even in other cases,

often neglect baptizing their children for a whole year. The child is

dipped three times in the water, in which a little holy oil, dropped on

the priest’s thumb, has been washed off; and prayers, entirely in

Coptic, are repeated over it. The Copts hold that the Holy Spirit

descends upon the child in baptism. No money is taken by the priest for

performing the baptismal service, unless voluntarily offered.

I have said that most of the Copts circumcise their sons. Not many of

them in Cairo, I am told, do so; but in other parts, all, or almost all,

observe this rite. The operation is generally performed when the child

is about seven or eight years of age; and always privately: there is no

fixed age for its performance: some of the Copts are circumcised at the

early age of two years; and some at the age of twenty years, or more.

The more enlightened of the Copts certainly regard circumcision as a

practice to be commended; but not as a religious rite; which the priests

declare it is not. It appears, however, from its being universal among

the peasantry, that these look upon it as something more than a mere

civil rite; for if they regarded it as being of no higher importance,

surely they would leave the more polished to comply with the custom.

Some say it is in imitation of Christ, who submitted to this rite, that

they perform it. It is a relic of ancient customs.

The Copts have numerous schools; but for boys only: very few females

among them can read; and those have been instructed at home. The boys

are taught the Psalms of David, the Gospels, and the Apostolical

Epistles, in Arabic; and then the Gospels and Epistles in Coptic. They

do not learn the Coptic language grammatically; and I am told that there

is not to be found, among the Copts, any person who can write or speak

that language with correctness or ease; and that there are very few

persons who can do more than repeat what they have committed to memory,

of the Scriptures and Liturgy. The Coptic language gradually fell into

disuse after the conquest of Egypt by the Arabs. For two centuries after

that event, it appears to have been the only language that the

generality of the Copts understood; but before the tenth century of our

era, most of the inhabitants of Lower Egypt had ceased to speak and

understand it;[637] though in the Sa’eed (or Upper Egypt), El-Makreezee

tells us, the women and children of the Copts, in his time (that is,

about the close of the fourteenth century of our era, or the early part

of the fifteenth), scarcely spoke any other language than the Sa’eedee

Coptic; and had a complete knowledge of the Greek. Soon after this

period, the Coptic language fell into disuse in Upper Egypt, as it had

done so long before in the Lower Provinces; and the Arabic was adopted

in its stead. All the Copts who have been instructed at a school still

pray, both in the church and in private, in Coptic; and the Scriptures

are still always read in the churches in that language; but they are

explained, from books, in Arabic. Many books for the use of priests and

other persons are written in the Coptic language, expressed in Arabic

characters.

The ordinary private prayers of the Copts are a subject particularly

worthy of notice. In these they seem to have imitated the Jews, and to

resemble the Muslims. I am informed that there are few of them in Cairo

who do not comply with a precept of their church which enjoins them to

pray seven times in the course of the day. The first prayer is said at

day-break; the second, at the third hour; the third, at the sixth hour;

the fourth, at the ninth hour; the fifth, at the eleventh hour; the

sixth, at the twelfth hour, which is sunset; and the seventh, at

midnight. In each of these prayers, those persons who have learned to

read, and are strict in the performance of their religious duties,

recite several of the Psalms of David (about a seventh part of the whole

book of Psalms) in Arabic, and a chapter of one of the four Gospels in

the same language; after which they say, either in Coptic or Arabic, “O

my Lord! have mercy!” forty-one times; some using a string of forty-one

beads; others counting by their fingers: they then add a short prayer in

Coptic. In the seven prayers of each day, altogether, they repeat the

whole book of Psalms. Such, I am assured, are the rigid practices of the

more strict and instructed classes in their daily worship. The

illiterate repeat, in each of the seven daily prayers, the Lord’s prayer

seven times, and “O my Lord! have mercy!” forty-one times. Previously to

private as well as public prayer, persons of the better and stricter

classes wash their hands and face; and some also wash their feet; and in

prayer they always face the east. Though in most of the rules above

mentioned they nearly resemble the Jews and the Muslims, they differ

from both these sects in holding that prayer, excepting with the

congregation in the church, is better performed in private than in

public. Their ordinary prayers, or at least the latter and shorter form,

they often repeat while walking or riding or otherwise actively

employed. I can hardly believe that the longer form is generally used by

the instructed classes; though I am positively assured that it is.

The larger churches are divided into four or five compartments. The

“Heykel,” or Chancel, containing the altar, occupies the central and

chief portion of the compartment at the upper end, which is screened

from the rest of the church by a close partition or wall of wooden

panel-work, having a door in the centre, the entrance of the Heykel,

before which is suspended a curtain, with a large cross worked upon it.

The compartment next before this is appropriated to the priests who read

the lessons, etc., and to boys who serve as acolytes and singers, and

the chief members of the congregation: this is separated from the

compartment next before it by a partition of wooden lattice-work, about

eight or nine feet high, with three doors, or a single door in the

centre. The inferior members of the congregation occupy the next

compartment, or next two compartments; and the lowest is appropriated to

the women, and is screened in front by a partition of wooden

lattice-work, to conceal them entirely from the men. Upon the walls of

the church are suspended ill-executed and gaudy pictures of various

saints; particularly of the patron saint; but no images are admitted.

The floor is covered with mats.

Every man takes off his shoes on entering the church; but he retains his

turban. He first goes to the door of the Heykel, prostrates himself

before it, and kisses the hem of its curtain. He then prostrates

himself, or makes a bow, and a salutation with the hand, before one or

more pictures of saints, and sometimes kisses the hand of one or more of

the officiating priests, in the compartment next before the Heykel.

Almost every member of the congregation has a crutch, about four feet

and a half or five feet long, to lean upon while he stands; which he

does during the greater part of the service. The full service (with the

celebration of the Eucharist) occupies between three and four hours;

generally commencing at day-break.

The priests who officiate in the Heykel are clad in handsome robes; but

the others wear only their ordinary dress. The whole of the service that

is performed in the Heykel is in the Coptic language; no other language

being allowed to be spoken within the sanctuary. The priests without,

standing opposite and facing the door of the Heykel, read and chant

explanations and lessons in Arabic and Coptic.[638] A priest is not

permitted to sit down while reading the service in the sanctuary; and as

this occupies so long a time, he pauses, in order that he may sit down,

several times, for a few minutes, and on these occasions, cymbals of

various sizes and notes are beaten as long as he remains sitting.

Several times, also, a priest comes out from the Heykel, waves a censer,

in which frankincense is burning, among the congregation, and blesses

each member, placing his hand upon the person’s head. Having done this

to the men, he proceeds to the apartment of the women. The Sacrament of

the Lord’s Supper is often performed in the Coptic Church. The bread,

which is made in the form of small round cakes, or buns, stamped upon

the top, is moistened with the wine, and in this state administered to

the congregation, and partaken of by the ministers in orders, who have

larger shares than the laymen, and are alone privileged to drink the

wine. Each member of the congregation advances to the door of the Heykel

to receive his portion.

The priests and others are often guilty of excessive indecorum in their

public worship. I heard a priest, standing before the door of the

sanctuary in the patriarchal church in Cairo, exclaim to a young acolyte

(who was assisting him, I suppose, rather awkwardly), “May a blow

corrode your heart!” and a friend of mine once witnessed, in the same

place, a complete uproar: a priest from a village, having taken a part

in the performance of the service, was loudly cursed, and forcibly

expelled, by the regular officiating ministers; and afterwards, many

members of the congregation, in pressing towards the door of the Heykel,

vociferated curses, and beat each other with their crutches. The form of

service in itself struck me as not much characterized by solemnity;

though probably it approaches very nearly to that of the earliest age of

the Christian Church.

Confession is required of all members of the Coptic Church; and is

indispensable before receiving the sacrament of the Lord’s Supper. Each

person generally confesses to the same priest. The penance which the

confessor usually imposes is a certain number of crossings and

prostrations, with the repetition, during each prostration, of the

Lord’s Prayer, or, “O my Lord! have mercy!”

The Copts observe long and arduous _fasts_. A week before their Great

Fast, or Lent, commences a fast of three days, kept in commemoration of

that of Nineveh, which was occasioned by the preaching of Jonah. Some of

the Copts observe this fast by total abstinence during the whole period

of three days and three nights; others keep it in the same manner as the

other fasts, of which an account here follows.

Their principal fast, called “Ses-óm el-Kebeer” (or the Great Fast),

above alluded to, was originally limited to forty days; but it has been

gradually extended, by different patriarchs, to fifty-five days. During

this period, excepting on two days of festival, which will presently be

mentioned, they abstain from every kind of animal food, such as

flesh-meat, eggs, milk, butter, and cheese; and eat only bread and

vegetables (chiefly beans), with sweet oil, or the oil of sesame, and

dukkah. The churches are open, and service is performed in them, every

day during this fast; and the Copts eat nothing after their supper until

after the church-prayers of the next day, about noon: but they do not

thus on the other fasts.

They observe, however, with almost equal strictness, three other

fasts:—1st, the “Sóm el-Meelád” (or Fast of the Nativity); the period of

which is twenty-eight days immediately preceding the festival of the

Nativity, or Christmas-day; that is, all the month of Kiyahk excepting

the last two days:—2dly, the “Sóm er-Rusul” (or Fast of the Apostles),

which is the period between the Ascension and the fifth of Ebeeb; and is

observed in commemoration of the Apostles’ fasting after they were

deprived of their Lord:—3dly, the “Sóm el-’Adra” (or Fast of the

Virgin), a period of fifteen days previous to the Assumption of the

Virgin.

The Copts also fast every Wednesday and Friday in every other period of

the year; excepting during the fifty days immediately following their

Great Fast: that is, from the end of the Great Fast to the end of the

Khamáseen. On these Wednesdays and Fridays, they eat only fish,

vegetables, and oil.

Each fast is followed by a _festival_. The Copts observe seven great

festivals:—1st, the “’Eed el-Meelád” (or Festival of the Nativity), on

the 29th of Kiyahk (or 6th or 7th of January):—2dly, the “’Eed

el-Gheetás,” on the 11th of Toobeh (18th or 19th of January), in

commemoration of the baptism of Christ:—3dly, the “’Eed el-Bishárah”

(Annunciation of the Virgin, or Lady-day), on the 29th of Barmahát (or

6th of April):—4thly, the “’Eed esh-Sha’áneen” (Palm Sunday), the Sunday

next before Easter:—5thly, the “’Eed el-Kiyámeh” (the Resurrection, or

Easter), or “el-’Eed el-Kebeer” (the Great Festival):—6thly, the “’Eed

es-So’ood” (the Ascension):—7thly, the “’Eed el-’Ansar′ah” (Whitsunday).

On the first, second, and fifth of these, the church-prayers are

performed at night: that is, in the night preceding the day of festival.

On all these festivals, the Copts wear new clothes (or the best they

have), feast, and give alms.

On the “Leylet el-Gheetás” (or eve of the festival of the Gheetás), the

Copts, almost universally, used to perform a singular ceremony, which, I

am informed, is now observed by few of those residing in the metropolis,

but by almost all others; that is, by the men. To commemorate the

baptism of Christ, men, old as well as young, and boys, plunge into

water; and the Muslims say, that as each does this, another exclaims to

him, “Plunge, as thy father and grandfather plunged; and remove El-Islám

from thy heart.” Some churches have a large tank, which is used on this

occasion; the water having first been blessed by a priest: but it is a

more common practice of the Copts to perform this ceremony (which most

of them regard more as an amusement than a religious rite) in the river;

pouring in some holy water from the church before they plunge. This used

to be an occasion of great festivity among the Copts of the metropolis:

the Nile was crowded with boats; and numerous tents and mesh′als were

erected on its banks. Prayers are performed in the churches on the eve

of this festival: a priest blesses the water in the font, or the tank,

then ties on a napkin as an apron, and, wetting the corner of a

handkerchief with the holy water, washes (or rather, wipes or touches)

with it the feet of each member of the congregation. This latter

ceremony is also performed on the Thursday next before Easter, or

Maunday Thursday (“Khamees el-′Ahd”), and on the Festival of the

Apostles (“′Eed er-Rusul”), on the 5th of Ebeeb (or 11th of July).

On the Festivals of the “Bishárah” and the “Sha′áneen,” the Copts eat

fish; and on the latter of these two festivals the priests recite the

prayers of the dead over their congregations in the churches; and if any

die between that day and the end of the Khamáseen (which is the chief or

worse portion of the plague-season), his body is interred without the

prayer being repeated. This custom seems to have originated from the

fact of its being impossible to pray at the tomb over every victim of

the plague; and must have a very impressive effect upon people expecting

this dreadful scourge.

Among the minor festivals are the “Khamees el-′Ahd,” above mentioned;

“Sebt en-Noor” (or Saturday of the Light), the next Saturday, when a

light which is said to be miraculous appears in the Holy Sepulchre at

Jerusalem; the “′Eed er-Rusul” before mentioned; and the “′Eed

es-Saleeb” (or Festival of [the discovery of] the Cross), on the 17th of

Toot (or 26th or 27th of September).

Pilgrimage to Jerusalem the Copts hold to be incumbent on all who are

able to perform it; but few of the poorer classes acquit themselves of

this duty. The pilgrims compose a numerous caravan. They pass the

Passion-Week and Easter at Jerusalem; and, on the third day after the

Passion-Week, proceed to the Jordan, in which they bathe.

The Copts almost universally abstain from eating swine′s flesh; not

because they consider it unlawful, for they deny it to be so, but, as

they say, on account of the filthiness of the animal. I should think,

however, that this abstinence is rather to be attributed to a prejudice

derived from their heathen ancestors. The flesh of the wild boar is

often eaten by them. Camel′s flesh they consider unlawful; probably for

no better reason than that of its being eaten by the Muslims. They

abstain from the flesh of animals that have been strangled, and from

blood, in compliance with an injunction of the Apostles to the Gentile

converts,[639] which they hold is not abrogated.

The male adults among the Copts pay a tribute (called “gizyeh”), besides

the income-tax (or “firdeh”) which they pay in common with the Muslim

inhabitants of Egypt. There are three rates of the former: the richer

classes, in Cairo and other large towns, pay thirty-six piastres each;

the middling classes, eighteen; and the poorest, nine: but in the

country, this tax is levied upon families, instead of individuals. The

firdeh is the same for the Copts as for the Muslims; the twelfth part of

a man′s annual salary or gain, when this can be ascertained.

The Copts are not now despised and degraded by the government as they

were a few years ago. Some of them have even been raised to the rank of

Beys. Before the accession of Mohammad ′Alee, neither the Copts nor

other Eastern Christians, nor Jews, were generally allowed to ride

horses in Egypt; but this restriction has, of late years, been

withdrawn.—A short time since, the Muslims of Damascus, who are

notorious for their bigotry and intolerance, complained to the conqueror

Ibráheem Básha, of the Christians in their city being allowed to ride

horses; urging that the Muslims no longer had the privilege of

distinguishing themselves from the infidels. The Básha replied, “Let the

Muslims still be exalted above the Christians, if they wish it: let them

ride dromedaries in the streets: depend upon it the Christians will not

follow their example.”—The Copts enjoy an immunity for which they are

much envied by most of the Muslims: they are not liable to be taken for

military service; as no Muslim prince would _honour_ a Christian by

employing him to fight against a Muslim enemy.

The ordinary domestic habits of the Copts are perfectly Oriental, and

nearly the same as those of their Muslim fellow-countrymen. They pass

their hours of leisure chiefly in the same manner, enjoying their pipe

and coffee: their meals, also, are similar; and their manner of eating

is the same: but they indulge in drinking brandy at all hours of the

day; and often, to excess.

They are not allowed by their church to intermarry with persons of any

other sect; and few of them do so. When a Copt wishes to contract such a

marriage, which causes him to be regarded as a reprobate by the more

strict of his nation, he generally applies to a priest of the sect to

which his intended wife belongs; and if his request be denied, which is

commonly the case unless the man will consent to adopt his wife′s creed,

he is married by the Kádee, merely by a civil contract. As a marriage of

this kind is not acknowledged by the church, it may be dissolved at

pleasure.

When a Copt is desirous of marrying according to the approved custom, he

pursues the same course to obtain a wife as the Muslim; employing one or

more of his female relations or other women to seek for him a suitable

companion. Scarcely ever is he able to obtain a sight of the face of his

intended wife, unless she be of the lower orders; and not always even in

this case. If the female sought in marriage be under age, her father, or

mother, or nearest male relation, is her “wekeel” (or agent) to make the

necessary arrangements; but if she be of age, and have neither father

nor mother, she appoints her own wekeel. The bridegroom, also, has his

wekeel. The parties make a contract, in which various private domestic

matters are arranged, in the presence of a priest. Two-thirds of the

amount of the dowry is paid on this occasion: the remaining third is

held in reserve: if she survive her husband, she claims this from his

property: if she die before him, her relations claim it at her death.

The contract being concluded, the Lord′s Prayer is recited three times

by all persons present: the priest commencing it first.

The marriage-festivities, in the cases of persons of the higher and

middle classes, when the bride is a virgin, usually occupy a period of

eight days. Such is the length of what is termed a complete fête.

The night preceding Sunday (which the Copts, like the Muslims, call the

night _of_ Sunday) is the most approved for the performance of the

marriage service; and most of the Copts are married on this night. In

this case, the festivities commence on the preceding Tuesday, when the

bridegroom and the bride′s family entertain their respective friends. At

the feasts given on these occasions, and on subsequent days of the

marriage-festivities, a curious custom, which reminds us of the _alites_

or _præpetes_ of the Romans, is usually observed. The cook makes two

hollow balls of sugar; each with a hole at the bottom: then taking two

live pigeons, he attaches little round bells to their wings; and having

whirled the poor birds through the air till they are giddy, puts them

into the two balls before mentioned: each of these is placed upon a

dish; and they are put before the guests; some of whom, judging when the

birds have recovered from their giddiness, break the balls: the pigeons

generally fly about the room, ringing their little bells: if they do not

fly immediately, some person usually makes them rise; as the spectators

would draw an evil omen from their not flying.[640] The guests are

generally entertained with music on the evenings of these

feasts.—Wednesday is passed in preparations.

On Thursday, in the afternoon, the bride is conducted to the bath,

accompanied by several of her female relations and friends, and usually

with music; but not under a canopy.—Friday, again, is a day of

preparation; and the bride has the henna applied to her hands and feet,

etc.

Early on Saturday, two sets of articles of clothing, etc., one for the

bridegroom and the other for the bride, and each consisting of similar

things (namely, a shirt of silk and cotton, a pair of drawers, the

embroidered band of the drawers, and two handkerchiefs embroidered with

gold, together with a tobacco-purse, ornamented in the same manner), are

sent from the bride′s family to the house of the bridegroom. An old lady

of the family of the bride afterwards goes to the bridegroom’s house, to

see whether it be properly prepared; and the bridegroom’s “ashbeen” (or

brideman) takes him and several of his friends to the bath.

In the ensuing evening, about an hour and a half, or two hours, after

sunset, the bride, accompanied by a number of her female relations and

friends, preceded and followed by musicians, and attended by a number of

persons bearing mesh’als and candles, proceeds to the house of the

bridegroom. This “zeffeh” (or parade) much resembles that of a Muslim′eh

bride; but the Copt bride is not conducted under a canopy. She is

covered with a shawl, with several ornaments attached to that part which

conceals her face and head, and numerous coins and other ornaments upon

the part which covers her bosom. The procession moves very slowly; and

generally occupies about two hours. A lamb or sheep is killed for the

guests at the bridegroom’s house this night: it is slaughtered at the

door; and the bride steps over its blood. This ceremony, I am told, is

only observed in Cairo and other large towns.

The bride’s party having rested about two hours at the bridegroom’s

house, and there partaken of refreshments, proceed with her thence, in

the same manner, to the church. The bridegroom goes thither with his

friends, forming a separate party; and without music. In the church,

where the men and women place themselves apart, long prayers are

performed; and the sacrament of the Lord’s Supper is administered. The

priest receives and blesses and returns two rings, for the bridegroom

and bride; and places a kind of crown, or frontal diadem, of gold, upon

the head of each of them, and a sash over the shoulder of the

bridegroom. This ceremony is called the “tekleel” (or crowning). The two

crowns belong to the church: before the parties quit the church, they

are taken off; but the bridegroom often goes home with the sash; and it

is there taken off by a priest. At the weddings of the rich in the

metropolis, the Patriarch generally officiates. In most cases, the

ceremonies of the church are not concluded until near daybreak: the

parties then return to the house of the bridegroom. From respect to the

sacrament of which they have partaken, the bridegroom and bride maintain

a religious reserve towards each other until the following night (that

preceding Monday); or, generally, until after the close of this

night.[641]

The bride’s father gives a dinner at the bridegroom’s house on Monday,

at which the principal dishes are usually rice and milk, and boiled

fowls. In the evening, after this dinner, the bridegroom and his ashbeen

go about to invite his friends to a great feast to be given on the

evening following, which concludes the marriage-festivities.

Such are the ceremonies which are usually observed on the marriage of a

virgin-bride. Sometimes, the Patriarch, bishop, or priest, who is

employed to perform the marriage-service, dissuades the parties from

expending their money in zeffehs and repeated feasts; counselling them

rather to devote the sums which they had purposed to employ in so vain a

manner to the relief of the wants of the clergy and poor; and in

consequence, the marriage is conducted with more simplicity and privacy.

A widow is always married without ostentation, festivity, or zeffeh. A

virgin bride of the poorer class is sometimes honoured with a zeffeh;

but is generally conducted to the bath merely by a group of female

relations and friends, who, wanting the accompaniment of musical

instruments, only testify their joy by “zagháreet:” in the same manner,

also, she proceeds to the bridegroom’s house; and she is there married

by a priest; as the expenses of lighting and otherwise preparing the

church for a marriage fall upon the bridegroom. Many of the Copts in

Cairo, being possessed of little property, are married in a yet more

simple manner, before mentioned. To be married by one of their own

clergy, they must obtain a licence from the Patriarch; and this covetous

person will seldom give it for less than a hundred piasters (or a pound

sterling), and sometimes demands, from such persons, as many riyáls (of

two piasters and a quarter each): the parties, therefore, are married by

a licence from the Kádee; for which they usually pay not more than two

piasters, or a little less than five pence of our money.

The newly-married wife, if she observe the approved rules of etiquette,

does not go out of the house, even to pay a visit to her parents, until

delivered of her first child, or until the expiration of a year, if

there appear no signs of her becoming a mother. After this period of

imprisonment, her father or mother usually comes to visit her.

A divorce is obtained only for the cause of adultery on the part of the

wife. The husband and wife may be separated if she have committed a

theft, or other heinous crime; but in this case, neither he nor she is

at liberty to contract another marriage, though they may again be united

to each other.

One of the most remarkable traits in the character of the Copts is their

bigotry. They bear a bitter hatred to all other Christians; even

exceeding that with which the Muslims regard the unbelievers in

El-Islám. Yet they are considered, by the Muslims, as much more inclined

than any other Christian sect to the faith of El-Islám; and this opinion

has not been formed without reason; for vast numbers of them have, from

time to time, and not always in consequence of persecution, become

proselytes to this religion. They are, generally speaking, of a sullen

temper, extremely avaricious, and abominable dissemblers; cringing or

domineering according to circumstances. The respectable Copt, to whom I

have already acknowledged myself chiefly indebted for the notions which

I have obtained respecting the customs of his nation, gives me a most

unfavourable account of their character. He avows them to be generally

ignorant, deceitful, faithless, and abandoned to the pursuit of worldly

gain, and to indulgence in sensual pleasures: he declares the Patriarch

to be a tyrant, and a suborner of false witnesses; and assures me that

the priests and monks in Cairo are seen every evening begging, and

asking the loan of money, which they never repay, at the houses of their

parishioners and other acquaintances, and procuring brandy, if possible,

wherever they call.

Many of the Copts are employed as secretaries or accountants. In every

village of a moderate size is a “M’allim”[642] who keeps the register of

the taxes. The writing of the Copts differs considerably from that of

the Muslims, as well as from that of other Christians residing in Egypt.

Most of the Copts in Cairo are accountants or tradesmen: the former are

chiefly employed in government offices: among the latter are many

merchants, goldsmiths, silversmiths, jewellers, architects, builders,

and carpenters; all of whom are generally esteemed more skilful than the

Muslims. Those in the villages, like the Muslim peasants, occupy

themselves chiefly in the labours of agriculture.

The funeral-ceremonies of the Copts resemble, in many respects, those of

the Muslims. The corpse is carried in a bier, followed by women, wailing

in the same manner as the Muslim′ehs do on such an occasion; but is not

preceded by hired chanters. Hired wailing-women are employed to lament

in the house of the deceased for three days after the death (though this

custom is disapproved of by the clergy and many others; being only a

relic of ancient heathen usages): and they renew their lamentations

there on the seventh and fourteenth days after the death; and sometimes

several weeks after. The Copts, both men and women, pay regular visits

to the tombs of their relations three times in the year: on the ’Eed

el-Meelád, ’Eed el-Gheetás, and ’Eed el-Kiyámeh. They go to the

burial-ground on the eve of each of these ’eeds; and there pass the

night; having houses belonging to them in the cemeteries, for their

reception on these occasions: the women spend the night in the upper

apartments; and the men below. In the morning following, they kill a

buffalo, or a sheep, if they can afford either; and give its flesh, with

bread, to the poor who assemble there: or they give bread alone. This

ceremony, which resembles the “kaffárah” performed by the Muslims on the

burial of their dead, is not considered as any expiation of the sins of

the deceased; but probably originates from an ancient expiatory

sacrifice: it is only regarded as an alms. As soon as it is done, the

mourners return home. They say that they visit the tombs merely for the

sake of religious reflection. In doing so, they perpetuate an ancient

custom, which they find difficult to relinquish; though they can give no

good reason for observing it with such ceremonies.

I shall close this account of the Copts with a few notices of their

history under the Muslim domination, derived from El-Makreezee’s

celebrated work on Egypt and its Metropolis.[643]

About seventy years after the conquest of Egypt by the Arabs, the Copts

began to experience such exactions and persecutions, notwithstanding the

chartered favours and privileges which had at first been granted to

them, that many of them rose in arms, and attempted to defend their

rights; but they were reduced, after sustaining a great slaughter. The

monks, for the first time, had been subjected to an annual tribute of a

deenár[644] each. The collector of the tribute branded the hand of each

monk whom he could find with a stamp of iron; and afterwards cut off the

hand of every person of this order whom he detected without the mark;

and exacted ten deenárs from every other Christian who had not a billet

from the government to certify his having paid his tribute. Many Monks

were subsequently found without the mark: some of these were beheaded,

and the rest beaten until they died under the blows: their churches were

demolished; and their crosses and pictures destroyed. This took place in

the year of the Flight 104 (A.D. 722-3), at the close of the reign of

the Khaleefeh Yezeed Ibn-’Abd-El-Melik. A few years after, in the reign

of the successor of this prince (Hishám), Handhal′ah Ibn-Safwán, the

Governor of Egypt, caused the hand of every Copt to be branded with an

iron stamp bearing the figure of a lion, and greatly aggravated their

misery: so that many of those residing in the provinces again rebelled,

and had recourse to arms; but in vain; and a terrible persecution

followed.

From the period of the conquest until the reign of Hishám, the Jacobites

(or almost all the Copts) were in possession of all the churches in

Egypt; and sent their bishops to the Nubians, who consequently abandoned

the Melekite creed, and adopted that of the Jacobites; but in the reign

of this Khaleefeh, the Melekites, by means of a present, obtained the

restoration of those churches which had formerly belonged to them:

these, however, soon after returned to the possession of the Jacobites;

and in aftertimes, were now the property of one sect, and now of the

other, being purchased by presents or services to the government.

It would be tiresome to detail all the troubles of the Copts under the

tyranny of Muslim princes; but some particulars in the history of the

persecutions which they endured in the earlier ages of the Arab

domination may be here mentioned. The Copts are a people of indomitable

presumption and intrigue; which qualities render them very difficult to

be governed. They have often incurred severe oppression by their own

folly; though they have more frequently been victims of unmerited

persecution under tyrannical rulers, and through the influence of

private fanatics.[645]

In the year of the Flight 235 (A.D. 849-50), the Khaleefeh El-Mutawekkil

ordered several degrading distinctions to be adopted in the dress of the

Copts: the men were obliged to wear “honey-coloured” (or light brown)

hooded cloaks, with other peculiar articles of dress; and the women,

garments of the same colour: and they were compelled to place wooden

figures (or pictures) of devils at (or upon) the doors of their houses.

One of the bitterest persecutions that they ever endured, and one which

was attributed to their pride, and their display of wealth, and

contemptuous treatment of Muslims, befell them during the reign of that

impious wretch the Khaleefeh El-Hákim, who acceded to the throne in the

year of the Flight 386 (A.D. 996-7), and was killed in 411. Among the

minor grievances which he inflicted upon them, was that of compelling

them to wear a wooden cross, of the weight of five pounds, suspended to

the neck, and garments and turbans of a deep black colour. This seems to

have been the origin of the black turban worn by so many of the

Christians in the present day. As the distinguishing dress and banners

of the Khaleefehs of Egypt were white, black, which was the colour that

distinguished their rivals, the ’Abbásees, was, in their eyes, the most

hateful and ignominious hue that they could choose for the dresses of

the despised Copts. I find no earlier mention than this of the black

turban of the Christians of Egypt. At the same time that the Copts were

compelled thus to distinguish themselves, the Jews were ordered to wear

a round piece of wood, of the same weight as the crosses of the

Christians, and suspended in the same manner. All the churches were

given up to be destroyed and plundered, with all the property

appertaining to them; and many of them were replaced by mosques.

Finally, a sentence of banishment to Greece was pronounced against all

the Christians of Egypt, and the Jews; but so strong was the love which

they bore to their native country amid all their miseries, and so much

were they actuated by that common but absurd disposition, which most

sects possess, of hating most bitterly those differing least from them

in faith, that a multitude of Copts thronged round the great palace of

the Khaleefeh, and implored and obtained a revokement of this sentence.

Many Copts, during this and other persecutions, embraced the faith of

El-Islám.

In the month of Regeb, 700 (A.D. 1301), happened an event which, for the

first time, as well as I can learn, occasioned the Copts to be

distinguished by the _blue_ turban, as they mostly are at present. A

Maghrab′ee ambassador, approaching the Citadel (of Cairo), saw a man

handsomely attired, wearing a white turban, and riding a mare, with many

attendants walking by his stirrups, paying him great honours, asking

favours of him, and even kissing his feet; while he turned aside from

them, and repulsed them, calling to his servants to drive them away. The

Maghrab′ee, informed that this person was a Christian, was so enraged

that he was about to lay violent hands upon him; but he refrained, and,

ascending to the deewán in the Citadel, related to some of the Emeers

there present what he had just seen, with tears in his eyes, drawn by

his pity for the Muslims. In consequence of his complaint, the chief

persons among the Christians and Jews were summoned to the deewán: and

orders were given that the Christians should wear blue turbans, and

waist-belts; and the Jews, yellow turbans: and that no person of either

of these sects should ride horses or mules. Many Christians, it is

added, embraced El-Islám rather than wear the blue turban.

On Friday, the 9th of Rabeea el-A′khir, 721 (A.D. 1321), in the reign of

Mohammad Ibn-Kalaoon, all the principal churches throughout Egypt, from

Aswán to the Mediterranean, sixty in number, and twenty-one of these in

the metropolis and its neighbourhood, were destroyed through a plot

formed by some fanatic Muslims. This havoc was accomplished chiefly

during the period of the congregational prayers of the Muslims, at noon.

At the close of the prayers of the Sultán and his court, in the mosque

of the Citadel, a man, in a state of apparent frenzy, cried out in the

midst of the congregation, “Destroy ye the church which is in the

Citadel!” Another man, a fakeer, in the great mosque El-Azhar, before

the appearance of the Khateeb (or Preacher), seemed to be affected by an

involuntary trembling, and cried out, “Destroy ye the churches of the

presumptuous and infidels! Yea, God is most great! God give victory and

aid!” Then he shook himself, and cried, “To the foundations! To the

foundations!” Some members of the congregation said, “This is a madman:”

others said, “This is an indication of some event.” On their going out

of the mosque, they saw that the act which he had urged had been

commenced: numbers of persons were pressing along the streets with the

plunder of the churches, many of which were reduced to mere mounds of

rubbish. The Sultán threatened a general massacre of the people of

El-Káhireh (now Masr, or Cairo) and El-Fustát (or Old Masr) for this

outrage; but was diverted from his purpose by the revenge which the

Christians exacted. Refraining from the execution of their plot for the

space of a month, that they might be less liable to suspicion, they set

fire, on different days, to a vast number of mosques, houses of Emeers,

and private dwellings, both in El-Káhireh and El-Fustát. Several of the

incendiaries were detected; and some burnt alive; and a number of

Muslims also were put to death, most of them hanged, along the principal

street leading from the southern gate of the city of El-Káhireh to the

Citadel, ostensibly for insulting an Emeer, whom they accused of

favouring the Christians; though there was no proof that they were the

persons who committed this offence: they had been arrested without

discrimination, to atone for the injury, and to be made examples to

their fellow-citizens. The Sultán, however, alarmed by the clamours of a

tremendous mob, was afterwards constrained to grant licence to his

Muslim subjects to plunder and murder every Christian whom they might

chance to meet. The Christians at that time had reverted to the habit of

wearing the white turban; and the Sultán caused it to be proclaimed,

that every person of this sect, who was seen wearing a white turban, or

riding a horse, might be plundered and killed; that they should wear the

blue turban; that they should not ride horses nor mules, but only asses,

and with their face to the animal’s tail; and should not enter a bath

unless with a bell suspended to the neck. At the same time, the Emeers

were forbidden to take any Christians into their service; and all of

this sect who were in the service of the government were displaced.

After having suffered frequent and heavy exactions and other

oppressions, a vast number of the Christians both in Upper and Lower

Egypt, in the year of the Flight 755 (A.D. 1354-5), embraced the faith

of El-Islám. The number of proselytes in the town of Kalyoob alone, who

changed their faith in one day, was four hundred and fifty. Most of the

churches of Upper Egypt were destroyed at the same time; and mosques

were built in their places.

From the period just mentioned, the Copts continued subject to more or

less oppression, until the accession of the present Básha of Egypt,

under whose tolerant though severe sway nothing more is exacted from the

Christian than the Muslim, excepting an inconsiderable tribute, which is

more than balanced by a remarkable immunity, not conferred by favour (it

is true), but not on that account the less valued and envied; I mean the

exemption from military service.

II.—THE JEWS OF EGYPT.

The Jews, in every country in which they are dispersed (unlike any other

collective class of people residing in a country which is not their own

by inheritance from the original possessors, or by conquest achieved by

themselves or their ancestors), form permanent members of the community

among whom they dwell: a few words respecting the Jews in Egypt will

therefore be not inappropriate in the present work.

There are in this country about five thousand Jews (in Arabic, called

“Yahood;” singular, “Yahoodee”), most of whom reside in the metropolis,

in a miserable, close, and dirty quarter, intersected by lanes, many of

which are so narrow as hardly to admit of two persons passing each other

in them.

In features, and in the general expression of countenance, the Oriental

Jews differ less from other Eastern nations than do those in European

countries from the people among whom they live. Many of the Egyptian

Jews have sore eyes, and a bloated complexion; the result, it is

supposed, of their making an immoderate use of the oil of sesame in

their food. In their dress, as well as in their persons, they are

generally slovenly and dirty. The colours of their turbans are the same

as those of the Christian subjects. Their women veil themselves, and

dress in every respect, in public, like the other women of Egypt.

The Jews have eight synagogues in their quarter in Cairo; and not only

enjoy religious toleration, but are under a less oppressive government

in Egypt than in any other country of the Turkish empire. In Cairo, they

pay for the exemption of their quarter from the visits of the Mohtes′ib;

and they did the same also with respect to the Wálee, as long as his

office existed. Being consequently privileged to sell articles of

provision at higher prices than the other inhabitants of the metropolis,

they can afford to purchase such things at higher rates, and therefore

stock their shops with provisions, and especially fruits, of better

qualities than are to be found in other parts of the town. Like the

Copts, and for a like reason, the Jews pay tribute, and are exempted

from military service.

They are held in the utmost contempt and abhorrence by the Muslims in

general; and are said to bear a more inveterate hatred than any other

people to the Muslims and the Muslim religion. It is said, in the

Kur-án,[646] “Thou shall surely find the most violent of [all] men in

enmity to those who have believed [to be] the Jews, and those who have

attributed partners to God; and thou shall surely find the most

inclinable of them to [entertain] friendship to those who have believed

[to be] those who say, We are Christians.” On my mentioning to a Muslim

friend this trait in the character of the Jews, he related to me, in

proof of what I remarked, an event which had occurred a few days

before.—“A Jew,” said he, “early one morning last week, was passing by a

coffee-shop kept by a Muslim with whom he was acquainted, named

Mohammad. Seeing a person standing there, and supposing that it was the

master of the shop (for it was yet dusk), he said, ‘Good morning, sheykh

Mohammad;’ but the only answer he received to his salutation was a

furious rebuke for thus addressing a _Jew_, by a name the most odious,

to a person of that sect, of any that could be uttered. He (the

offender) was dragged before his high-priest, who caused him to receive

a severe bastinading for the alleged offence, in spite of his protesting

that it was unintentional.” It is a common saying among the Muslims in

this country, “Such a one hates me with the hate of the Jews.” We cannot

wonder, then, that the Jews are detested by the Muslims far more than

are the Christians. Not long ago, they used often to be jostled in the

streets of Cairo, and sometimes beaten merely for passing on the right

hand of a Muslim. At present, they are less oppressed; but still they

scarcely ever dare to utter a word of abuse when reviled or beaten

unjustly by the meanest Arab or Turk; for many a Jew has been put to

death upon a false and malicious accusation of uttering disrespectful

words against the Kur-án or the Prophet. It is common to hear an Arab

abuse his jaded ass, and, after applying to him various opprobrious

epithets, end by calling the beast a Jew.

A Jew has often been sacrificed to save a Muslim, as happened in the

following case.—A Turkish soldier, having occasion to change some money,

received from the seyrefee (or money-changer), who was a Muslim, some

Turkish coins called ’adleeyehs, reckoned at sixteen piasters each.

These he offered to a shopkeeper, in payment for some goods; but the

latter refused to allow him more than fifteen piasters to the ’adleeyeh;

telling him that the Básha had given orders, many days before, that this

coin should no longer pass for sixteen. The soldier took back the

’adleeyehs to the seyrefee, and demanded an additional piaster to each;

which was refused: he therefore complained to the Básha himself, who,

enraged that his orders had been disregarded, sent for the seyrefee.

This man confessed that he had been guilty of an offence; but

endeavoured to palliate it by asserting that almost every money-changer

in the city had done the same, and that he received ’adleeyehs at the

same rate. The Básha, however, disbelieving him, or thinking it

necessary to make a public example, gave a signal with his hand,

intimating that the delinquent should be beheaded. The interpreter of

the court, moved with compassion for the unfortunate man, begged the

Básha to spare his life. “This man,” said he, “has done no more than all

the money changers of the city: I, myself, no longer ago than yesterday,

received ’adleeyehs at the same rate.” “From whom?” exclaimed the Básha,

“From a Jew,” answered the interpreter, “with whom I have transacted

business for many years.” The Jew was brought, and sentenced to be

hanged; while the Muslim was pardoned. The interpreter, in the greatest

distress of mind, pleaded earnestly for the life of the poor Jew: but

the Básha was inexorable: it was necessary that an example should be

made; and it was deemed better to take the life of a Jew than that of a

more guilty Muslim. I saw the wretched man hanging at a window of a

public fountain which forms part of a mosque in the main street of the

city.[647] One end of the rope being passed over one of the upper bars

of the grated window, he was hauled up; and as he hung close against the

window, he was enabled, in some slight degree, to support himself by his

feet against the lower bars; by which his suffering was dreadfully

protracted. His relations offered large sums of money for his pardon;

but the only favour they could purchase was that of having his face

turned towards the window, so as not to be seen by the passengers. He

was a man much respected by all who knew him (Muslims, of course,

excepted); and he left a family in a very destitute state; but the

interpreter who was the unintending cause of his death contributed to

their support.

The Jews in Egypt generally lead a very quiet life: indeed, they find

few but persons of their own sect who will associate with them. Their

diet is extremely gross; but they are commonly regarded as a sober

people. The more wealthy among them dress handsomely at home; but put on

a plain or even shabby dress before they go out: and though their houses

have a mean and dirty appearance from without, many of them contain fine

and well-furnished rooms. In the house they are not so strict as most

other Orientals in concealing their women from strange men, or, at

least, from persons of their own nation, and from Franks: it often

happens that a European visitor is introduced into an apartment where

the women of the Jew’s family are sitting unveiled, and is waited upon

by these women. The same custom also prevails among many of the Syrian

Christians residing in Cairo. Intrigues are said to be common with the

Jewesses; but there are no avowed courtesans among them. The condition

of the lower orders is very wretched; many of them having no other means

of subsistence than alms bestowed upon them by their superiors of the

same sect.

Avarice is more particularly a characteristic of the Jews in Egypt than

of those in other countries where they are less oppressed. They are

careful, by every means in their power, to avoid the suspicion of being

possessed of much wealth. It is for this reason that they make so shabby

a figure in public, and neglect the exterior appearance of their houses.

They are generally strict in the performance of their religious

ordinances; and, though over-reaching in commercial transactions, are

honest in the fulfilment of their contracts.

Many of the Egyptian Jews are “sarráfs” (or bankers and money-lenders):

others are seyrefees, and are esteemed men of strict probity. Some are

goldsmiths or silversmiths; and others pursue the trades of retail

grocers or fruiterers, etc. A few of the more wealthy are general

merchants.

III.—OF LATE INNOVATIONS IN EGYPT.

THE exaggerated reports which have been spread in Europe respecting late

innovations, and the general advance of civilization, in Egypt, induce

me to add a few lines on these subjects. European customs have not yet

begun to spread among the Egyptians themselves; but they probably will

ere long; and in the expectation that this will soon be the case, I have

been most anxious to become well acquainted (before it be too late to

make the attempt) with a state of society which has existed, and excited

a high degree of interest, for many centuries, and which many persons

have deemed almost immutable.

The account which I have given of the present state of the government of

this country shows how absurd is the assertion, that Egypt possesses a

legislative assembly that can, with any degree of propriety, be called

representative of the people. The will of the Básha is almost absolute;

but he has certainly effected a great reform, by the introduction of

European military and naval tactics, the results of which have already

been considerable, and will be yet more extensive, and, in most

respects, desirable. Already it has removed a great portion of that

weight of prejudice which has so long prevented the Turks from

maintaining their relative rank among the nations of the civilized

world: by convincing them that one of our branches of science and

practice is so far superior to that to which they were accustomed, it

has made them in general willing, if not desirous, to learn what more we

are able to teach them. One of its effects already manifest might be

regarded by an unreflecting mind as of no importance; but is considered

by the philosophical Muslim as awfully portentous, and hailed by the

Christian as an omen of the brightest promise. The Turks have been led

to imitate us in our luxuries: several of the more wealthy began by

adopting the use of the knife and fork: the habit of openly drinking

wine immediately followed; and has become common among a great number of

the higher officers of the government. That a remarkable indifference to

religion is indicated by this innovation is evident; and the principles

of the dominant class will doubtless spread (though they have not yet

done so) among the inferior members of the community. The former have

begun to undermine the foundations of El-Islám: the latter as yet seem

to look on with apathy, or at least with resignation to the decrees of

Providence; but they will probably soon assist in the work; and the

overthrow of the whole fabric may reasonably be expected to ensue at a

period not very remote.

The acquisition of a powerful empire, independent of the Porte, appears

to have been the grand, and almost the sole, object of the present Básha

of Egypt. He has introduced many European sciences, arts, and

manufactures; but all in furtherance of this project; for his new

manufactures have impoverished his people. He has established a printing

office; but the works which have issued from it are almost solely

intended for the instruction of his military, naval, and civil

servants.[648] A newspaper is printed at another press, in the Citadel:

its paragraphs, however, are seldom on any other subject than the

affairs of the government. It is in Turkish and Arabic. Sometimes, three

numbers of it appear in a week: at other times, only one is published in

a month.[649]

I have candidly stated my opinion, that the policy of Mohammad ’Alee is

in several respects erroneous; and that his people are severely

oppressed: but the circumstances in which he has been placed offer large

excuses for his severity. To judge of his character fairly, we should

compare him with another Turkish reformer, his [late] nominal sovereign,

the Sultán Mahmood. In every point of view, he has shown his superiority

to the latter; and especially in the discipline of his forces. While the

Sultán was more closely imitating us in trivial matters (as, for

instance, in the new military dress which he introduced), Mohammad ’Alee

aimed at, and attained, more important objects.[650] When we would

estimate his character by the massacre of the Memlooks, a fact most

painful to reflect upon, we should admit that he had recourse to this

horrid expedient for a most desirable end; and may at the same time

place in the opposite scale the asylum which he granted to the Greek

refugees when the blood of their countrymen ran in the gutters of

Constantinople.

Since the publication of the previous editions of this work, events have

occurred which will doubtless occasion still more important changes in

Egypt. Many changes in its government have, indeed, already been made;

but the country is still in a state of transition; and under such

circumstances, I can only express a hope, that Mohammad ’Alee, knowing

his true interests, and acting upon those sentiments which he has

frequently avowed, of anxiety for the welfare of his people, and for the

general improvement of his territories, will fulfil those expectations

which his numerous admirers have so often and so strongly expressed. It

is difficult even to form a just estimate of the general conduct of

Mohammad ’Alee in _past_ times, since the commencement of his career in

Egypt, on account of the secrecy which is maintained in the East in the

most important political affairs: this, however, may be said with

certainty—the people whom he governs have been greatly impoverished

under his rule; but they have exchanged anarchy for tranquillity, and

undisguised fanaticism for an affected toleration; while many of them

have been instructed in sciences and arts which must eventually be

highly beneficial to the nation at large.

-----

Footnote 634:

Καθαριότητος εἵνεκεν. Compare the account given by Herodotus of the

habits of the priests of ancient Egypt: lib. ii., cap. 37.

Footnote 635:

I have neglected to write the name of this appendage; but if my memory

do not deceive me, I was told that it is termed “kalás’weh,” which

word seems to be a corruption of “kalensuweh.” Mengin calls it

“kaloucyeh” (“Hist. de l’Egypte sous Mohammed-Aly,” tome ii., p. 290).

Footnote 636:

Mengin, _ubi supra_, pp. 284-289.

Footnote 637:

This has been shown by Quatremère, in his “Researches on the Language

and Literature of Egypt.”

Footnote 638:

They chant nearly in the same manner as the Muslims reciting the

Kur-án.

Footnote 639:

Acts xv. 20 and 29.

Footnote 640:

The ball and bird are called “el-kubbeh wa-t-teyr.” It is said that

the Muslims of Egypt, on some occasions, as on the inauguration of a

Sultán, used to observe the custom here described; but this appears to

be an error, arising from a misunderstanding of the term “el-kubbeh

wa-t-teyr” applied by historians to an umbrella surmounted by the

figure of a bird, which was borne over the head of a Sultán in certain

pompous processions.

Footnote 641:

The custom mentioned by Burckhardt, in his Arabic Proverbs, page 117,

as prevailing “among the lower classes of Muslims at Cairo,” is

observed by the Copts.

Footnote 642:

Thus pronounced for “Mo’allim.” It signifies “teacher” or “master;”

and is a title given to all Copts but those of the poorer class, or

peasants. The registrar of the taxes of a village is simply called

“the M’allim of the village.”

Footnote 643:

If the reader desire further and fuller details on this subject, he

may consult Et. Quatremère’s ‘Mémoires Géogr. et Hist. sur l’Egypte,’

tome ii., pp. 220-266.

Footnote 644:

Equivalent (at that period) to about thirteen shillings, or, as some

say, a little more than half a guinea.

Footnote 645:

It should be observed here, that the cases alluded to form exceptions

to the general toleration exhibited by the Muslims; and that the Copts

who have been converted to El-Islám by oppression have been few in

comparison with those who have changed their religion voluntarily.

Many have done this through love of Muslim women.

Footnote 646:

Chap. v., ver. 85.

Footnote 647:

It is surprising that Muslims should hang a _Jew_ against a window of

a _mosque_, when they consider him so unclean a creature that his

blood would defile the sword. For this reason a Jew, in Egypt, is

never beheaded.

Footnote 648:

I have transmitted a list of these works to the Royal Asiatic Society.

Footnote 649:

One of the less important acts of Mohammad ’Alee I should mention, as

it is one which renders my description of the streets and shops of

Cairo not altogether applicable to their present state. He has lately

caused the mastab′ahs in most of the thoroughfare-streets to be pulled

down, and only allowed them to be rebuilt in the wider parts,

generally to the width of about two spans. At the same time, he has

obliged the tradesmen to paint their shops, and to remove the

unsightly “sakeefehs” (or coverings) of matting which shaded many of

the sooks; prohibiting the replacing of them unless by coverings of

wood. Cairo has, in consequence, lost much of its Arabian aspect.

Footnote 650:

The dress worn by the military and some other officers of the Básha of

Egypt is still quite Turkish in everything but the want of the turban,

which is now worn by few of those persons, and only in winter; the red

cap alone, over which the muslin or Kashmeer shawl used always to be

wound, being at present the regular head-dress. The trousers are very

full from the waist to a little below the knee, overhanging a pair of

tight leggings which form parts of them. A tight vest (the sleeves of

which are divided from the wrist nearly to the elbow, but generally

buttoned at this part), a girdle, a jacket with hanging sleeves,

socks, and a pair of red shoes, complete the outward dress generally

worn: but the jacket is sometimes made with sleeves like those of the

vest above described, and the vest without sleeves; and black European

shoes are worn by some persons. The sword is now hung in our manner,

by a waist-belt. The dress of the private soldiers consists of a vest

and trousers (the latter similar to those above described, but not so

full), of a kind of coarse red serge, or, in summer, of white cotton,

with the girdle, red cap, and red shoes.

----------------------------

APPENDIX A.

FEMALE ORNAMENTS.

The ornaments of the women of Egypt are so various, that a description

of them all would far exceed the limits which the nature of this work

allows, and would require a great number of engravings, or be useless. I

shall, however, describe all the principal kinds; and these will convey

some idea of the rest. If the subject be not interesting to general

readers, it may at least be of some use to artists, who are often left

almost entirely to their own imagination in representing Arabian

costumes and ornaments. I first describe those which are worn by

_ladies_, and females of the _middle orders_.

The head-dress has already been mentioned, as composed of a “tarboosh”

and “faroodeeyeh” (or kerchief), which latter, when wound round the

former, is called “rabtah.” The front part of the rabtah is often

ornamented with spangles of gilt or plain silver, disposed in fanciful

patterns; and in this case, the rabtah itself is generally of black or

rose-coloured muslin or crape, and always plain. The more common kinds

of rabtah have been described.

The “mizágee” is an ornament very generally worn. It is composed of a

strip of muslin, most commonly black or rose-coloured, folded together

several times, so as to form a narrow band, about the breadth of a

finger, or less. Its length is about five feet. The central part, for

the space of about twelve or thirteen inches, is ornamented with

spangles, which are placed close together, or in the form of diamonds,

etc., or of bosses; and at each end, for about the same length, are a

few other spangles, with an edging, and small tassels, of

various-coloured silks. Sometimes there is also a similar edging, with

spangles suspended to it, along the lower edge of the ornamented part in

the middle. The mizágee is bound round the head; the ornamented central

part being over the forehead, generally above the edge of the rabtah; it

is tied behind, at the upper part of the rabtah, and the ornamented

ends, drawn forward, hang over the bosom.

[Illustration: DIAMOND KURS.]

The “kurs” is a round, convex ornament, commonly about five inches in

diameter, which is very generally worn by ladies. It is sewed upon the

crown of the tarboosh. There are two kinds. The first that I shall

describe (the only kind that is worn by ladies, or by the wives of

tradesmen of moderate property) is the “kurs almás,” or diamond kurs.

This is composed of diamonds, set generally in gold; and is of open

work, representing roses, leaves, etc. The diamonds are commonly of a

very poor and shallow kind; and the gold of this and all other diamond

ornaments worn in Egypt is much alloyed with copper. The value of a

moderately handsome diamond kurs is about a hundred and twenty-five or a

hundred and fifty pounds sterling. It is very seldom made of silver; and

I think that those of gold, when attached to the deep-red tarboosh, have

a richer effect, though not in accordance with our general taste. The

wives even of petty tradesmen sometimes wear the diamond kurs: they are

extremely fond of diamonds, and generally endeavour to get some, however

bad. The kurs, being of considerable weight, is at first painful to

wear; and women who are in the habit of wearing it complain of headache

when they take it off: hence they retain it day and night; but some have

an inferior one for the bed. Some ladies have one for ordinary wearing;

another for particular occasions, a little larger and handsomer; and a

third merely to wear in bed.—The other kind of kurs, “kurs dahab” (or,

of gold), is a convex plate of very thin embossed gold, usually of the

form represented above; and almost always with a false emerald (a piece

of green glass), not cut with facets, set in the centre. Neither the

emerald nor the ruby is here cut with facets: if so cut, they would

generally be considered false. The simple gold kurs is lined with a

thick coat of wax, which is covered with a piece of paper. It is worn by

many women who cannot afford to purchase diamonds; and even by some

servants.

The kussah is an ornament generally from seven to eight inches in

length, composed of diamonds set in gold, and sometimes with emeralds,

rubies, and pearls; having drops of diamonds or emeralds, etc.,

suspended to it. It is worn on the front of the rabtah, attached by

little hooks at the back. I have seen several kussahs of diamonds, etc.,

set in silver instead of gold. The kussah is generally placed on the

head of a bride, outside her shawl covering, as also is the kurs; and

these ornaments are likewise employed to decorate the bier of a female.

The former, like the latter, is worn by females of the higher and middle

classes.

[Illustration: GOLD KURS.]

“’Enebeh” is another name for the same kind of ornament, worn in the

same manner. If of full size, it is fourteen or fifteen inches in

length, and rather more than half encircles the head-dress.

The “shawáteh” (in the singular, “sháteh”) are two ornaments, each

consisting of three or more strings of pearls, about the length of the

kussah, with a pierced emerald uniting them in the centre, like the

usual pearl necklace hereafter described: or they are composed of pearls

arranged in the manner of a narrow lace, and often with the addition of

a few small emeralds. They are attached to the rabtah in the form of two

festoons, one on each side of the head, from the extremity of the kussah

to the back part of the head-dress, or, sometimes, to the ear-ring.

Instead of the kussah and shawáteh, and sometimes in addition to them,

are worn some other ornaments which I proceed to describe.

The “reesheh” (literally, “feather”) is a sprig of diamonds set in gold

or silver. It is worn on the front or side of the head-dress.

The “hilál” is a crescent of diamonds set in gold or silver, and worn

like the reesheh. In form it resembles the phasis of the moon when

between two and three nights old; its width being small, and its outward

edge not more than half a circle.

[Illustration: 1. KUSSAH; 2. ’ENEBEH; the former, half, and the latter,

one-third, of the real size.]

The “kamarah” (or moon) is an ornament formed of a thin plate of gold,

embossed with fanciful work, and sometimes with Arabic words, and having

about seven little flat pieces of gold, called “bark,” attached to the

lower part; or it is composed of gold with diamonds, rubies, etc. Two

specimens of the former kind are here represented. One of these consists

of three kamarahs connected together, to be worn on the front of the

head-dress: the central contains the words “Yá Káfee Yá Sháfee” (O

Sufficient! O Restorer to health!): that on the left, “Yá Háfiz” (O

Preserver!): that on the right, “Yá Emeen” (O Trustworthy!): these,

therefore, are charms as well as ornaments.

[Illustration:

1 AND 2. KAMARAHS. 3. SÁKIYEH. 4. ’OOD ES-SALEEB. 5 AND 6. MISHTS.

7. ’AKEEK. 8. BELLOOR. Each, half the real size.

]

The “sákiyeh” (or water-wheel), so called from its form, is a circular

flat ornament of gold filigree-work, with small pearls, and with a

diamond or other precious stone in the centre, and bark and emeralds

suspended from the lower part. It is worn in the same manner as the

kamarah, or with the latter ornament.

The “’ood es-saleeb” (or wood of the cross) is a kind of ornament

undoubtedly borrowed from the Christians; and it is surprising that

Mohammadan women should wear it, and give it this appellation. It is a

little round and slender piece of wood, rather smaller towards the

extremities than in the middle, enclosed in a case of gold, of the same

form, composed of two pieces which unite in the middle, having two

chains and a hook by which to suspend it, and a row of bark along the

bottom. It is worn in the place of, or with, the two ornaments just

before described.

The “misht” (or comb) is a little comb of gold, worn in the same manner

as the three kinds of ornament described next before this, and generally

with one or more of those ornaments. It is suspended by small chains and

a hook, having four or five bark attached.

There is also an ornament somewhat similar to those just mentioned,

composed of a carnelian, or a piece of crystal or of colourless glass,

set in gold, suspended by two chains and a hook, and having bark

attached to the bottom. The former kind is called “’akeek” (which

signifies “carnelian”), and the latter, “belloor” (“crystal”).

Several ornaments in the shapes of flowers, butterflies, etc., are also

worn upon the head-dress; but seldom alone.

Of ear-rings (“halak”) there is a great variety. Some of the more usual

kinds are here represented. The first is of diamonds set in silver. It

consists of a drop suspended within a wreath hanging from a sprig. The

back of the silver is gilt, to prevent its being tarnished by

perspiration. The specimen here given is that for the right ear: its

fellow is similar; but with the sprig reversed. This pair of ear-rings

is suited for a lady of wealth.—So also is the second, which resembles

the former, excepting that it has a large pearl in the place of the

diamond drop and wreath, and that the diamonds of the sprig are set in

gold. No. 3 is a side view of the same.—The next consists of gold, and

an emerald pierced through the middle, with a small diamond above the

emerald. Emeralds are generally pierced in Egypt, and spoiled by this

process as much as by not being cut with facets.—The last is of gold,

with a small ruby in the centre. The ruby is set in fine filigree-work,

which is surrounded by fifteen balls of gold. To the seven lower balls

are suspended as many circular bark.

[Illustration: EAR-RINGS—each, half the real size.]

The necklace (“’ekd”) is another description of ornament of which the

Egyptians have a great variety; but almost all of them are similar in

the following particulars. 1st. The beads, etc., of which they are

composed are, altogether, not more than ten inches in length; so that

they would not entirely encircle the neck if tied quite tight, which is

never done: the string extends about six or seven inches beyond each

extremity of the series of beads; and when the necklace is tied in the

usual manner, there is generally a space of three inches or more between

these extremities; but the plaits of hair conceal these parts of the

string. 2dly. There is generally, in the centre, one bead or other

ornament (and sometimes there are three, or five, or seven) differing in

size, form, material, or colour, from the others.—The necklaces mostly

worn by ladies are of diamonds or pearls.—In the annexed engraving, the

first necklace is of diamonds set in gold.—The second consists of

several strings of pearls, with a pierced flattish emerald in the

centre. Most of the pearl necklaces are of this description.—The third

is called “libbeh.” It is composed of hollow gold beads, with a bead of

a different kind (sometimes of a precious stone, and sometimes of coral)

in the centre. This and the following are seldom worn by any but females

of the middle and lower orders.—The fourth is called, from its peculiar

form, “sha’eer” (which signifies “barley”). It is composed of hollow

gold. I give a side view (A) and a back view (B) of one of the

appendages of this necklace.—There is also a long kind of necklace,

reaching to the girdle, and composed of diamonds or other precious

stones, which is called “kiládeh.” Some women form a long necklace of

this kind with Venetian sequins, or Turkish or Egyptian gold coins.

[Illustration: NECKLACES—each, half the real size.]

The finger-rings (“khátims”) differ so little from those common among

ourselves, excepting in the clumsiness of their workmanship, and the

badness of the jewels, that I need not describe them. A finger-ring

without a stone is called “debleh,” or “dibleh.”

[Illustration: BRACELETS—each, half the real size.]

Bracelets (“asáwir”) are of diamonds or other precious stones set in

gold, or of pearls, or of gold alone. The more common kinds are

represented in an engraving here inserted.—No. 1 is a side view of a

diamond bracelet, with a front view of a portion of the same.—No. 2 is

the most fashionable kind of gold bracelet, which is formed of a simple

twist.—No. 3 is a very common, but less fashionable kind of bracelet of

twisted gold.—No. 4 is also of gold.—These bracelets of gold are pulled

open a little to be put on the wrist. They are generally made of fine

Venetian gold, which is very flexible.

An account of the manners and customs of the modern Egyptians · 第 28 / 29 章