LEAVE CUMBERLAND HOUSE. MODE OF TRAVELLING IN WINTER. ARRIVAL AT
CARLTON HOUSE. STONE INDIANS. VISIT TO A BUFFALO POUND. GOITRES.
DEPARTURE FROM CARLTON HOUSE. ISLE A LA CROSSE. ARRIVAL AT FORT
CHIPEWYAN.
LEAVE CUMBERLAND HOUSE.
January 18, 1820.
This day we set out from Cumberland House for Carlton House but,
previously to detailing the events of the journey, it may be proper to
describe the necessary equipments of a winter traveller in this region
which I cannot do better than by extracting the following brief but
accurate account of it from Mr. Hood’s journal:
MODE OF TRAVELLING IN WINTER.
A snowshoe is made of two light bars of wood fastened together at their
extremities and projected into curves by transverse bars. The side bars
have been so shaped by a frame and dried before a fire that the front
part of the shoe turns up like the prow of a boat and the part behind
terminates in an acute angle; the spaces between the bars are filled up
with a fine netting of leathern thongs except that part behind the main
bar which is occupied by the feet; the netting is there close and
strong, and the foot is attached to the main bar by straps passing
round the heel but only fixing the toes so that the heel rises after
each step, and the tail of the shoe is dragged on the snow. Between the
main bar and another in front of it a small space is left, permitting
the toes to descend a little in the act of raising the heel to make the
step forward, which prevents their extremities from chafing. The length
of a snowshoe is from four to six feet and the breadth one foot and a
half, or one and three-quarters, being adapted to the size of the
wearer. The motion of walking in them is perfectly natural for one shoe
is level with the snow when the edge of the other is passing over it.
It is not easy to use them among bushes without frequent overthrows,
nor to rise afterwards without help. Each shoe weighs about two pounds
when unclogged with snow. The northern Indian snowshoes differ a little
from those of the southern Indians, having a greater curvature on the
outside of each shoe, one advantage of which is that when the foot
rises the over-balanced side descends and throws off the snow. All the
superiority of European art has been unable to improve the native
contrivance of this useful machine.
Sledges are made of two or three flat boards curving upwards in front
and fastened together by transverse pieces of wood above. They are so
thin that, if heavily laden, they bend with the inequalities of the
surface over which they pass. The ordinary dog-sledges are eight or ten
feet long and very narrow, but the lading is secured to a lacing round
the edges. The cariole used by the traders is merely a covering of
leather for the lower part of the body, affixed to the common sledge
which is painted and ornamented according to the taste of the
proprietor. Besides snowshoes each individual carries his blanket,
hatchet, steel, flint, and tinder, and generally firearms.
The general dress of the winter traveller is a _capot_, having a hood
to put up under the fur cap in windy weather or in the woods to keep
the snow from his neck, leathern trousers and Indian stockings which
are closed at the ankles round the upper part of his _moccasins_, or
Indian shoes to prevent the snow from getting into them. Over these he
wears a blanket or leathern coat which is secured by a belt round his
waist to which his fire-bag, knife, and hatchet are suspended.
Mr. Back and I were accompanied by the seaman John Hepburn; we were
provided with two carioles and two sledges, their drivers and dogs
being furnished in equal proportions by the two Companies. Fifteen
days’ provision so completely filled the sledges that it was with
difficulty we found room for a small sextant, one suit of clothes, and
three changes of linen, together with our bedding. Notwithstanding we
thus restricted ourselves and even loaded the carioles with part of the
luggage instead of embarking in them ourselves we did not set out
without considerable grumbling from the voyagers of both Companies
respecting the overlading of their dogs. However we left the matter to
be settled by our friends at the fort who were more conversant with
winter travelling than ourselves. Indeed the loads appeared to us so
great that we should have been inclined to listen to the complaints of
the drivers. The weight usually placed upon a sledge drawn by three
dogs cannot at the commencement of a journey be estimated at less than
three hundred pounds, which however suffers a daily diminution from the
consumption of provisions. The sledge itself weighs about thirty
pounds. When the snow is hard frozen or the track well trodden the rate
of travelling is about two miles and a half an hour, including rests,
or about fifteen miles a day. If the snow be loose the speed is
necessarily much less and the fatigue greater.
At eight in the morning of the 18th we quitted the fort and took leave
of our hospitable friend Governor Williams whose kindness and attention
I shall ever remember with gratitude. Dr. Richardson, Mr. Hood, and Mr.
Connolly accompanied us along the Saskatchewan until the snow became
too deep for their walking without snowshoes. We then parted from our
associates with sincere regret at the prospect of a long separation.
Being accompanied by Mr. Mackenzie of the Hudson’s Bay Company who was
going to Isle à la Crosse with four sledges under his charge we formed
quite a procession, keeping in an Indian file on the track of the man
who preceded the foremost dogs; but as the snow was deep we proceeded
slowly on the surface of the river, which is about three hundred and
fifty yards wide, for the distance of six miles which we went this day.
Its alluvial banks and islands are clothed with willows. At the place
of our encampment we could scarcely find sufficient pine branches to
floor the hut, as the Orkney men term the place where travellers rest.
Its preparation however consists only in clearing away the snow to the
ground and covering that space with pine branches, over which the party
spread their blankets and coats and sleep in warmth and comfort by
keeping a good fire at their feet without any other canopy than the
heaven, even though the thermometer should be far below zero.
The arrival at the place of encampment gives immediate occupation to
every one of the party; and it is not until the sleeping-place has been
arranged and a sufficiency of wood collected as fuel for the night that
the fire is allowed to be kindled. The dogs alone remain inactive
during this busy scene, being kept harnessed to their burdens until the
men have leisure to unstow the sledges and hang upon the trees every
species of provision out of their reach. We had ample experience before
morning of the necessity of this precaution as they contrived to steal
a considerable part of our stores almost from underneath Hepburn’s
head, notwithstanding their having been well fed at supper.
This evening we found the mercury of our thermometer had sunk into the
bulb and was frozen. It rose again into the tube on being held to the
fire but quickly redescended into the bulb on being removed into the
air; we could not therefore ascertain by it the temperature of the
atmosphere either then or during our journey. The weather was perfectly
clear.
January 19.
We rose this morning after the enjoyment of a sound and comfortable
repose and recommenced our journey at sunrise but made slow progress
through the deep snow. The task of beating the track for the dogs was
so very fatiguing that each of the men took the lead in turn for an
hour and a half. The scenery of the banks of the river improved as we
advanced today; some firs and poplars were intermixed with the willows.
We passed through two creeks formed by islands, and encamped on a
pleasant spot on the north shore, having only made six miles and
three-quarters actual distance.
The next day we pursued our course along the river; the dogs had the
greatest difficulty in dragging their heavy burdens through the snow.
We halted to refresh them at the foot of Sturgeon River and obtained
the latitude 53° 51′ 41″ North. This is a small stream which issues
from a neighbouring lake. We encamped near to Mosquito Point having
walked nine miles. The termination of the day’s journey was a great
relief to me who had been suffering during the greater part of it in
consequence of my feet having been galled by the snowshoes; this
however is an evil which few escape on their initiation to winter
travelling. It excites no pity from the more experienced companions of
the journey who travel on as fast as they can regardless of your pain.
Mr. Isbester and an Orkney man joined us from Cumberland House and
brought some pemmican that we had left behind, a supply which was very
seasonable after our recent loss. The general occupation of Mr.
Isbester during the winter is to follow or find out the Indians and
collect their furs, and his present journey will appear adventurous to
persons accustomed to the certainty of travelling on a well-known road.
He was going in search of a band of Indians of whom no information had
been received since last October, and his only guide for finding them
was their promise to hunt in a certain quarter; but he looked at the
jaunt with indifference and calculated on meeting them in six or seven
days, for which time only he had provision. Few persons in this country
suffer more from want of food than those occasionally do who are
employed on this service. They are furnished with a sufficiency of
provision to serve until they reach the part where the Indians are
expected to be; but it frequently occurs that on their arrival at the
spot they have gone elsewhere, and that a recent fall of snow has
hidden their track, in which case the voyagers have to wander about in
search of them; and it often happens when they succeed in finding the
Indians that they are unprovided with meat. Mr. Isbester had been
placed in this distressing situation only a few weeks ago and passed
four days without either himself or his dogs tasting food. At length
when he had determined on killing one of the dogs to satisfy his hunger
he happily met with a beaten track which led him to some Indian lodges
where he obtained food.
The morning of the 21st was cold but pleasant for travelling. We left
Mr. Isbester and his companion and crossed the peninsula of Mosquito
Point to avoid a detour of several miles which the river makes. Though
we put up at an early hour we gained eleven miles this day. Our
encampment was at the lower extremity of Tobin’s Falls. The snow being
less deep on the rough ice which enclosed this rapid we proceeded on
the 22nd at a quicker pace than usual but at the expense of great
suffering to Mr. Back, myself and Hepburn, whose feet were much galled.
After passing Tobin’s Falls the river expands to the breadth of five
hundred yards, and its banks are well wooded with pines, poplars, birch
and willow. Many tracks of moose-deer and wolves were observed near the
encampment.
On the 23rd the sky was generally overcast and there were several snow
showers. We saw two wolves and some foxes cross the river in the course
of the day and passed many tracks of the moose and red-deer. Soon after
we had encamped the snow fell heavily which was an advantage to us
after we had retired to rest by its affording an additional covering to
our blankets. The next morning at breakfast time two men arrived from
Carlton on their way to Cumberland. Having the benefit of their track
we were enabled, to our great joy, to march at a quick pace without
snowshoes. My only regret was that the party proceeded too fast to
allow of Mr. Back’s halting occasionally to note the bearings of the
points and delineate the course of the river,[13] without being left
behind. As the provisions were getting short I could not therefore with
propriety check the progress of the party; and indeed it appeared to me
less necessary as I understood the river had been carefully surveyed.
In the afternoon we had to resume the encumbrance of the snowshoes and
to pass over a rugged part where the ice had been piled over a
collection of stones. The tracks of animals were very abundant on the
river, particularly near the remains of an old establishment called the
Lower Nippeween.
[13] This was afterwards done by Dr. Richardson during a voyage to
Carlton in the spring.
So much snow had fallen on the night of the 24th that the track we
intended to follow was completely covered and our march today was very
fatiguing. We passed the remains of two red-deer lying at the bases of
perpendicular cliffs from the summits of which they had probably been
forced by the wolves. These voracious animals, who are inferior in
speed to the moose or red-deer, are said frequently to have recourse to
this expedient in places where extensive plains are bounded by
precipitous cliffs. Whilst the deer are quietly grazing the wolves
assemble in great numbers and, forming a crescent, creep slowly towards
the herd so as not to alarm them much at first but, when they perceive
that they have fairly hemmed in the unsuspecting creatures and cut off
their retreat across the plain, they move more quickly and with hideous
yells terrify their prey and urge them to flight by the only open way,
which is that towards the precipice, appearing to know that when the
herd is once at full speed it is easily driven over the cliff, the
rearmost urging on those that are before. The wolves then descend at
their leisure and feast on the mangled carcasses. One of these animals
passed close to the person who was beating the track but did not offer
any violence. We encamped at sunset after walking thirteen miles.
On the 26th we were rejoiced at passing the halfway point between
Cumberland and Carlton. The scenery of the river is less pleasing
beyond this point as there is a scarcity of wood. One of our men was
despatched after a red-deer that appeared on the bank. He contrived to
approach near enough to fire twice, though without success, before the
animal moved away. After a fatiguing march of seventeen miles we put up
at the Upper Nippeween, a deserted establishment, and performed the
comfortable operations of shaving and washing for the first time since
our departure from Cumberland, the weather having been hitherto too
severe. We passed an uncomfortable and sleepless night and agreed next
morning to encamp in future in the open air as preferable to the
imperfect shelter of a deserted house without doors or windows.
The morning was extremely cold but fortunately the wind was light which
prevented our feeling it severely; experience indeed had taught us that
the sensation of cold depends less upon the state of temperature than
the force of the wind. An attempt was made to obtain the latitude which
failed in consequence of the screw that adjusts the telescope of the
sextant being immovably fixed from the moisture upon it having frozen.
The instrument could not be replaced in its case before the ice was
thawed by the fire in the evening.
In the course of the day we passed the confluence of the south branch
of the Saskatchewan, which rises from the Rocky Mountains near the
sources of the northern branch of the Missouri. At Coles Falls, which
commence a distance from the branch, we found the surface of the ice
very uneven and many spots of open water.
We passed the ruins of an establishment which the traders had been
compelled to abandon in consequence of the intractable conduct and
pilfering habits of the Assineboine or Stone Indians; and we learned
that all the residents at a post on the south branch had been cut off
by the same tribe some years ago. We travelled twelve miles today. The
wolves serenaded us through the night with a chorus of their agreeable
howling but none of them ventured near the encampment. But Mr. Back’s
repose was disturbed by a more serious evil: his buffalo robe caught
fire and the shoes on his feet being contracted by the heat gave him
such pain that he jumped up in the cold and ran into the snow as the
only means of obtaining relief.
On the 28th we had a strong and piercing wind from North-West in our
faces and much snow-drift; we were compelled to walk as quick as we
could and to keep constantly rubbing the exposed parts of the skin to
prevent their being frozen, but some of the party suffered in spite of
every precaution. We descried three red-deer on the banks of the river
and were about to send the best marksmen after them when they espied
the party and ran away. A supply of meat would have been very
seasonable as the men’s provision had become scanty and the dogs were
without food except a little burnt leather. Owing to the scarcity of
wood we had to walk until a late hour before a good spot for an
encampment could be found and had then attained only eleven miles. The
night was miserably cold; our tea froze in the tin pots before we could
drink it and even a mixture of spirits and water became quite thick by
congelation; yet after we lay down to rest we felt no inconvenience and
heeded not the wolves though they were howling within view.
The 29th was also very cold until the sun burst forth when the
travelling became pleasant. The banks of the river are very scantily
supplied with wood through the part we passed today. A long track on
the south shore called Holms Plains is destitute of anything like a
tree and the opposite bank has only stunted willows; but after walking
sixteen miles we came to a spot better wooded and encamped opposite to
a remarkable place called by the voyagers The Neck of Land.
A short distance below our encampment, on the peninsula formed by the
confluence of the Net-setting river with the Saskatchewan, there stands
a representation of Kepoochikawn which was formerly held in high
veneration by the Indians and is still looked upon with some respect.
It is merely a large willow bush having its tops bound into a bunch.
Many offerings of value such as handsome dresses, hatchets, and
kettles, used to be made to it, but of late its votaries have been less
liberal. It was mentioned to us as a signal instance of its power that
a sacrilegious moose-deer, having ventured to crop a few of its tender
twigs, was found dead at the distance of a few yards. The bush having
now grown old and stunted is exempted from similar violations.
On the 30th we directed our course round The Neck of Land which is well
clothed with pines and firs; though the opposite or western bank is
nearly destitute of wood. This contrast between the two banks continued
until we reached the commencement of what our companions called the
Barren Grounds when both the banks were alike bare. Vast plains extend
behind the southern bank which afford excellent pasturage for the
buffalo and other grazing animals. In the evening we saw a herd of the
former but could not get near to them. After walking fifteen miles we
encamped. The men’s provision having been entirely expended last night
we shared our small stock with them. The poor dogs had been toiling
some days on the most scanty fare; their rapacity in consequence was
unbounded; they forced open a deal box containing tea, etc. to get at a
small piece of meat which had been incautiously placed in it.
ARRIVAL AT CARLTON HOUSE.
As soon as daylight permitted the party commenced their march in
expectation of reaching Carlton House to breakfast, but we did not
arrive before noon although the track was good. We were received by Mr.
Prudens, the gentleman in charge of the post, with that friendly
attention which Governor Williams’ circular was calculated to ensure at
every station; and were soon afterwards regaled with a substantial dish
of buffalo steaks which would have been excellent under any
circumstances but were particularly relished by us after our travelling
fare of dried meat and pemmican, though eaten without either bread or
vegetables. After this repast we had the comfort of changing our
travelling dresses which had been worn for fourteen days; a
gratification which can only be truly estimated by those who have been
placed under similar circumstances. I was still in too great pain from
swellings in the ankles to proceed to La Montée, the North-West
Company’s establishment distant about three miles; but Mr. Hallet, the
gentleman in charge, came the following morning and I presented to him
the circular from Mr. S. McGillivray. He had already been furnished
however with a copy of it from Mr. Connolly, and was quite prepared to
assist us in our advance to the Athabasca.
Mr. Back and I, having been very desirous to see some of the Stone
Indians who reside on the plains in this vicinity, learned with regret
that a large band of them had left the house on the preceding day, but
our curiosity was amply gratified by the appearance of some individuals
on the following and every subsequent day during our stay.
The looks of these people would have prepossessed me in their favour
but for the assurances I had received from the gentlemen of the posts
of their gross and habitual treachery. Their countenances are affable
and pleasing; their eyes large and expressive, nose aquiline, teeth
white and regular, the forehead bold, the cheek-bones rather high.
Their figure is usually good, above the middle size with slender but
well proportioned limbs. Their colour is a light copper and they have a
profusion of very black hair which hangs over the ears and shades the
face. Their dress, which I think extremely neat and convenient,
consists of a vest and trousers of leather fitted to the body; over
these a buffalo robe is thrown gracefully. These dresses are in general
cleaned with _white-mud_, a sort of marl, though some use _red-earth_,
a kind of bog-iron-ore; but this colour neither looks so light nor
forms such an agreeable contrast as the white with the black hair of
the robe. Their quiver hangs behind them and in the hand is carried the
bow with an arrow always ready for attack or defence, and sometimes
they have a gun; they also carry a bag containing materials for making
a fire, some tobacco, the calumet or pipe, and whatever valuables they
possess. This bag is neatly ornamented with porcupine quills. Thus
equipped the Stone Indian bears himself with an air of perfect
independence.
The only articles of European commerce they require in exchange for the
meat they furnish to the trading post are tobacco, knives, ammunition,
and spirits, and occasionally some beads, but more frequently buttons
which they string in their hair as ornaments. A successful hunter will
probably have two or three dozen of them hanging at equal distances on
locks of hair from each side of the forehead. At the end of these locks
small coral bells are sometimes attached which tinkle at every motion
of the head, a noise which seems greatly to delight the wearer;
sometimes strings of buttons are bound round the head like a tiara; and
a bunch of feathers gracefully crowns the head.
The Stone Indians steal whatever they can, particularly horses; these
animals they maintain are common property sent by the Almighty for the
general use of man and therefore may be taken wherever met with; still
they admit the right of the owners to watch them and to prevent theft
if possible. This avowed disposition on their part calls forth the
strictest vigilance at the different posts; notwithstanding which the
most daring attacks are often made with success, sometimes on parties
of three or four but oftener on individuals. About two years ago a band
of them had the audacity to attempt to take away some horses which were
grazing before the gate of the North-West Company’s fort and, after
braving the fire from the few people then at the establishment through
the whole day and returning their shots occasionally, they actually
succeeded in their enterprise. One man was killed on each side. They
usually strip defenceless persons whom they meet of all their garments,
but particularly of those which have buttons, and leave them to travel
alone in that state, however severe the weather. If resistance be
expected they not unfrequently murder before they attempt to rob. The
traders when they travel invariably keep some men on guard to prevent
surprise whilst the others sleep; and often practise the stratagem of
lighting a fire at sunset, which they leave burning, and move on after
dark to a more distant encampment—yet these precautions do not always
baffle the depredators. Such is the description of men whom the traders
of this river have constantly to guard against. It must require a long
residence among them and much experience of their manners to overcome
the apprehensions their hostility and threats are calculated to excite.
Through fear of having their provisions and supplies entirely cut off
the traders are often obliged to overlook the grossest offences, even
murder, though the delinquents present themselves with unblushing
effrontery almost immediately after the fact and perhaps boast of it.
They do not on detection consider themselves under any obligation to
deliver up what they have stolen without receiving an equivalent.
STONE INDIANS.
The Stone Indians keep in amity with their neighbours the Crees from
motives of interest; and the two tribes unite in determined hostility
against the nations dwelling to the westward which are generally called
Slave Indians—a term of reproach applied by the Crees to those tribes
against whom they have waged successful wars. The Slave Indians are
said greatly to resemble the Stone Indians, being equally desperate and
daring in their acts of aggression and dishonesty towards the traders.
These parties go to war almost every summer and sometimes muster three
or four hundred horsemen on each side. Their leaders, in approaching
the foe, exercise all the caution of the most skilful generals; and
whenever either party considers that it has gained the best ground, or
finds it can surprise the other, the attack is made. They advance at
once to close quarters and the slaughter is consequently great though
the battle may be short. The prisoners of either sex are seldom spared
but slain on the spot with wanton cruelty. The dead are scalped and he
is considered the bravest person who bears the greatest number of
scalps from the field. These are afterwards attached to his war dress
and worn as proofs of his prowess. The victorious party during a
certain time blacken their faces and every part of their dress in token
of joy, and in that state they often come to the establishment, if
near, to testify their delight by dancing and singing, bearing all the
horrid insignia of war, to display their individual feats. When in
mourning they completely cover their dress and hair with white mud.
The Crees in the vicinity of Carlton House have the same cast of
countenance as those about Cumberland but are much superior to them in
appearance, living in a more abundant country. These men are more
docile, tractable, and industrious than the Stone Indians and bring
greater supplies of provision and furs to the posts. Their general mode
of dress resembles that of the Stone Indians; but sometimes they wear
cloth leggings, blankets, and other useful articles when they can
afford to purchase them. They also decorate their hair with buttons.
The Crees procure guns from the traders and use them in preference to
the bow and arrow; and from them the Stone Indians often get supplied
either by stealth, gaming, or traffic. Like the rest of their nation
these Crees are remarkably fond of spirits and would make any sacrifice
to obtain them. I regretted to find the demand for this pernicious
article had greatly increased within the last few years. The following
notice of these Indians is extracted from Dr. Richardson’s Journal:
The Asseenaboine, termed by the Crees Asseeneepoytuck or Stone Indians,
are a tribe of Sioux who speak a dialect of the Iroquois, one of the
great divisions under which the American philologists have classed the
known dialects of the aborigines of North America. The Stone Indians
or, as they name themselves, _Eascab_, originally entered this part of
the country under the protection of the Crees and, in concert with
them, attacked and drove to the westward the former inhabitants of the
banks of the Saskatchewan. They are still the allies of the Crees but
have now become more numerous than their former protectors. They
exhibit all the bad qualities ascribed to the Mengwe or Iroquois, the
stock whence they are sprung. Of their actual number I could obtain no
precise information but it is very great. The Crees who inhabit the
plains, being fur hunters, are better known to the traders.
They are divided into two distinct bands, the Ammiskwatchhethinyoowuc
or Beaver Hill Crees, who have about forty tents and the
Sackaweethinyoowuc or Thick Wood Crees who have thirty-five. The tents
average nearly ten inmates each, which gives a population of seven
hundred and fifty to the whole.
The nations who were driven to the westward by the Eascab and Crees are
termed, in general, by the latter, Yatcheethinyoowuc, which has been
translated Slave Indians but more properly signifies Strangers.
They now inhabit the country around Fort Augustus, and towards the foot
of the Rocky Mountains, and have increased in strength until they have
become an object of terror to the Eascab themselves. They rear a great
number of horses, make use of firearms, and are fond of European
articles, in order to purchase which they hunt the beaver and other
furred animals, but they depend principally on the buffalo for
subsistence.
They are divided into five nations:
First, the Pawausticeythinyoowuc, or Fall Indians, so named from their
former residence on the falls of the Saskatchewan. They are the
Minetarres with whom Captain Lewis’s party had a conflict on their
return from the Missouri. They have about four hundred and fifty or
five hundred tents; their language is very guttural and difficult.
Second, the Peganooeythinyoowuc Pegans, or Muddy River Indians named in
their own language Peganoekoon, have four hundred tents.
Third, the Meethcothinyoowuc, or Blood Indians, named by themselves
Kainoekoon, have three hundred tents.
Fourth, the _Cuskœteh-waw-thésseetuck_, or Blackfoot Indians, in their
own language Saxoekoekoon, have three hundred and fifty tents.
The last three nations or tribes, the Pegans, Blood Indians, and
Blackfeet, speak the same language. It is pronounced in a slow and
distinct tone, has much softness, and is easily acquired by their
neighbours. I am assured by the best interpreters in the country that
it bears no affinity to the Cree, Sioux, or Chipewyan languages.
Lastly the Sassees, or Circees, have one hundred and fifty tents; they
speak the same language with their neighbours, the Snare Indians, who
are a tribe of the extensive family of the Chipewyans.[14]
[14] As the subjects may be interesting to philologists I subjoin a
few words of the Blackfoot language:
Peestâh kan: tobacco.
Moohksee: an awl.
Nappœ-oòhkee: rum.
Cook keet: give me.
Eeninee: buffalo.
Pooxāpoot: come here.
Kat œtsits: none, I have none.
Keet stā kee: a beaver.
Naum: a bow.
Stooan: a knife.
Sassoopats: ammunition.
Meenee: beads.
Poommees: fat.
Miss ta poot: keep off.
Saw: no.
Stwee: cold; it is cold.
Pennākomit: a horse.
Ahseeu: good.
VISIT TO A BUFFALO POUND.
On the 6th of February we accompanied Mr. Prudens on a visit to a Cree
encampment and a buffalo pound about six miles from the house; we found
seven tents pitched within a small cluster of pines which adjoined the
pound. The largest, which we entered, belonged to the chief who was
absent but came in on learning our arrival. The old man (about sixty)
welcomed us with a hearty shake of the hand and the customary
salutation of “What cheer!” an expression which they have gained from
the traders. As we had been expected they had caused the tent to be
neatly arranged, fresh grass was spread on the ground, buffalo robes
were placed on the side opposite the door for us to sit on, and a
kettle was on the fire to boil meat for us.
After a few minutes’ conversation an invitation was given to the chief
and his hunters to smoke the calumet with us as a token of our
friendship: this was loudly announced through the camp and ten men from
the other tents immediately joined our party. On their entrance the
women and children withdrew, their presence on such occasions being
contrary to etiquette. The calumet having been prepared and lighted by
Mr. Prudens’ clerk was presented to the chief who performed the
following ceremony before he commenced smoking: He first pointed the
stem to the south, then to the west, north, and east, and afterwards to
the heavens, the earth and the fire, as an offering to the presiding
spirits; he took three whiffs only and then passed the pipe to his next
companion who took the same number of whiffs and so did each person as
it went round. After the calumet had been replenished the person who
then commenced repeated only the latter part of the ceremony, pointing
the stem to the heavens, the earth and the fire. Some spirits mixed
with water were presented to the old man who before he drank demanded a
feather which he dipped into the cup several times and sprinkled the
moisture on the ground, pronouncing each time a prayer. His first
address to the Keetchee Manitou, or Great Spirit, was that buffalo
might be abundant everywhere and that plenty might come into their
pound. He next prayed that the other animals might be numerous and
particularly those which were valuable for their furs, and then
implored that the party present might escape the sickness which was at
that time prevalent and be blessed with constant health. Some other
supplications followed which we could not get interpreted without
interrupting the whole proceeding; but at every close the whole Indian
party assented by exclaiming Aha; and when he had finished the old man
drank a little and passed the cup round. After these ceremonies each
person smoked at his leisure and they engaged in a general conversation
which I regretted not understanding as it seemed to be very humorous,
exciting frequent bursts of laughter. The younger men in particular
appeared to ridicule the abstinence of one of the party who neither
drank nor smoked. He bore their jeering with perfect composure and
assured them, as I was told, they would be better if they would follow
his example. I was happy to learn from Mr. Prudens that this man was
not only one of the best hunters but the most cheerful and contented of
the tribe.
Four Stone Indians arrived at this time and were invited into the tent
but one only accepted the invitation and partook of the fare. When Mr.
Prudens heard the others refuse he gave immediate directions that our
horses should be narrowly watched as he suspected these fellows wished
to carry them off. Having learned that these Crees considered Mr. Back
and myself to be war chiefs possessing great power and that they
expected we should make some address to them I desired them to be kind
to the traders, to be industrious in procuring them provision and furs,
and to refrain from stealing their stores and horses; and I assured
them that if I heard of their continuing to behave kindly I would
mention their good conduct in the strongest terms to their Great Father
across the sea (by which appellation they designate the King) whose
favourable consideration they had been taught by the traders to value
most highly.
They all promised to follow my advice and assured me it was not they
but the Stone Indians who robbed and annoyed the traders. The Stone
Indian who was present heard this accusation against his tribe quite
unmoved, but he probably did not understand the whole of the
communication. We left them to finish their rum and went to look round
the lodges and examine the pound.
The greatest proportion of labour in savage life falls to the women; we
now saw them employed in dressing skins, and conveying wood, water, and
provision. As they have often to fetch the meat from some distance they
are assisted in this duty by their dogs which are not harnessed in
sledges but carry their burdens in a manner peculiarly adapted to this
level country. Two long poles are fastened by a collar to the dog’s
neck; their ends trail on the ground and are kept at a proper distance
by a hoop which is lashed between them immediately behind the dog’s
tail; the hoop is covered with network upon which the load is placed.
The boys were amusing themselves by shooting arrows at a mark and thus
training to become hunters. The Stone Indians are so expert with the
bow and arrow that they can strike a very small object at a
considerable distance and will shoot with sufficient force to pierce
through the body of a buffalo when near.
The buffalo pound was a fenced circular space of about a hundred yards
in diameter; the entrance was banked up with snow to a sufficient
height to prevent the retreat of the animals that once have entered.
For about a mile on each side of the road leading to the pound stakes
were driven into the ground at nearly equal distances of about twenty
yards; these were intended to represent men and to deter the animals
from attempting to break out on either side. Within fifty or sixty
yards from the pound branches of trees were placed between these stakes
to screen the Indians who lie down behind them to await the approach of
the buffalo.
The principal dexterity in this species of chase is shown by the
horsemen who have to manœuvre round the herd in the plains so as to
urge them to enter the roadway which is about a quarter of a mile
broad. When this has been accomplished they raise loud shouts and,
pressing close upon the animals, so terrify them that they rush
heedlessly forward towards the snare. When they have advanced as far as
the men who are lying in ambush they also rise and increase the
consternation by violent shouting and firing guns. The affrighted
beasts having no alternative run directly to the pound where they are
quickly despatched either with an arrow or gun.
There was a tree in the centre of the pound on which the Indians had
hung strips of buffalo flesh and pieces of cloth as tributary or
grateful offerings to the Great Master of Life; and we were told that
they occasionally place a man in the tree to sing to the presiding
spirit as the buffaloes are advancing who must keep his station until
the whole that have entered are killed. This species of hunting is very
similar to that of taking elephants on the island of Ceylon but upon a
smaller scale.
The Crees complained to us of the audacity of a party of Stone Indians
who two nights before had stripped their revered tree of many of its
offerings and had injured their pound by setting their stakes out of
the proper places.
Other modes of killing the buffalo are practised by the Indians with
success; of these the hunting them on horseback requires most
dexterity. An expert hunter, when well mounted, dashes at the herd and
chooses an individual which he endeavours to separate from the rest. If
he succeeds he contrives to keep him apart by the proper management of
his horse though going at full speed. Whenever he can get sufficiently
near for a ball to penetrate the beast’s hide he fires and seldom fails
of bringing the animal down; though of course he cannot rest the piece
against the shoulder nor take a deliberate aim. On this service the
hunter is often exposed to considerable danger from the fall of his
horse in the numerous holes which the badgers make in these plains, and
also from the rage of the buffalo which when closely pressed often
turns suddenly and, rushing furiously on the horse, frequently succeeds
in wounding it or dismounting the rider. Whenever the animal shows this
disposition which the experienced hunter will readily perceive he
immediately pulls up his horse and goes off in another direction.
When the buffaloes are on their guard horses cannot be used in
approaching them; but the hunter dismounts at some distance and crawls
in the snow towards the herd, pushing his gun before him. If the
buffaloes happen to look towards him he stops and keeps quite
motionless until their eyes are turned in another direction; by this
cautious proceeding a skilful person will get so near as to be able to
kill two or three out of the herd. It will easily be imagined this
service cannot be very agreeable when the thermometer stands 30 or 40°
below zero as sometimes happens in this country.
As we were returning from the tents the dogs that were harnessed to
three sledges, in one of which Mr. Back was seated, set off in pursuit
of a buffalo-calf. Mr. Back was speedily thrown from his vehicle and
had to join me in my horse-cariole. Mr. Heriot, having gone to recover
the dogs, found them lying exhausted beside the calf which they had
baited until it was as exhausted as themselves. Mr. Heriot, to show us
the mode of hunting on horseback or as the traders term it, running of
the buffalo, went in chase of a cow and killed it after firing three
shots.
The buffalo is a huge and shapeless animal quite devoid of grace or
beauty; particularly awkward in running but by no means slow; when put
to his speed he plunges through the deep snow very expeditiously; the
hair is dark brown, very shaggy, curling about the head, neck, and
hump, and almost covering the eye, particularly in the bull which is
larger and more unsightly than the cow. The most esteemed part of the
animal is the hump, called by the Canadians _bos_, by the Hudson’s Bay
people the _wig;_ it is merely a strong muscle on which nature at
certain seasons forms a considerable quantity of fat. It is attached to
the long spinous processes of the first dorsal vertebrae and seems to
be destined to support the enormous head of the animal. The meat which
covers the spinal processes themselves after the wig is removed is next
in esteem for its flavour and juiciness and is more exclusively termed
the hump by the hunters.
The party was prevented from visiting a Stone Indian encampment by a
heavy fall of snow, which made it impracticable to go and return the
same day. We were dissuaded from sleeping at their tents by the
interpreter at the North-West post who told us they considered the
whooping-cough and measles, under which they were now suffering, to
have been introduced by some white people recently arrived in the
country, and that he feared those who had lost relatives, imagining we
were the persons, might vent their revenge on us. We regretted to learn
that these diseases had been so very destructive among the tribes along
the Saskatchewan as to have carried off about three hundred persons,
Crees and Asseenaboines, within the trading circle of these
establishments. The interpreter also informed us of another bad trait
peculiar to the Stone Indians. Though they receive a visitor kindly at
their tents and treat him very hospitably during his stay yet it is
very probable they will despatch some young men to waylay and rob him
in going towards the post: indeed all the traders assured us it was
more necessary to be vigilantly on our guard on the occasion of a visit
to them than at any other time.
Carlton House (which our observations place in latitude 52° 50′ 47″
North, longitude 106° 12′ 42″ West, variation 20° 44′ 47″ East) is
pleasantly situated about a quarter of a mile from the river’s side on
the flat ground under the shelter of the high banks that bound the
plains. The land is fertile and produces with little trouble ample
returns of wheat, barley, oats, and potatoes. The ground is prepared
for the reception of these vegetables about the middle of April and
when Dr. Richardson visited this place on May 10th the blade of wheat
looked strong and healthy. There were only five acres in cultivation at
the period of my visit. The prospect from the fort must be pretty in
summer owing to the luxuriant verdure of this fertile soil; but in the
uniform and cheerless garb of winter it has little to gratify the eye.
Beyond the steep bank behind the house commences the vast plain whose
boundaries are but imperfectly known; it extends along the south branch
of the Saskatchewan and towards the sources of the Missouri and
Asseenaboine Rivers, being scarcely interrupted through the whole of
this great space by hills or even rising grounds. The excellent
pasturage furnishes food in abundance to a variety of grazing animals
of which the buffalo, red-deer, and a species of antelope are the most
important. Their presence naturally attracts great hordes of wolves
which are of two kinds, the large, and the small. Many bears prowl
about the banks of this river in summer; of these the grizzly bear is
the most ferocious and is held in dread both by Indians and Europeans.
The traveller in crossing these plains not only suffers from the want
of food and water but is also exposed to hazard from his horse
stumbling in the numerous badger-holes. In many large districts the
only fuel is the dried dung of the buffalo; and when a thirsty
traveller reaches a spring he has not unfrequently the mortification to
find the water salt.
Carlton House and La Montée are provision-posts, only an inconsiderable
quantity of furs being obtained at either of them. The provisions are
procured in the winter season from the Indians in the form of dried
meat and fat and, when converted by mixture into pemmican, furnish the
principal support of the voyagers in their passages to and from the
depôts in summer. A considerable quantity of it is also kept for winter
use at most of the fur-posts as the least bulky article that can be
taken on a winter journey. The mode of making pemmican is very simple,
the meat is dried by the Indians in the sun or over a fire, and pounded
by beating it with stones when spread on a skin. In this state it is
brought to the forts where the admixture of hair is partially sifted
out and a third part of melted fat incorporated with it, partly by
turning the two over with a wooden shovel, partly by kneading them
together with the hands. The pemmican is then firmly pressed into
leathern bags, each capable of containing eighty-five pounds and, being
placed in an airy place to cool, is fit for use. It keeps in this state
if not allowed to get wet very well for one year and with great care it
may be preserved good for two. Between three and four hundred bags were
made here by each of the Companies this year.
There were eight men besides Mr. Prudens and his clerk belonging to
Carlton House. At La Montée there were seventy Canadians and
half-breeds and sixty women and children who consumed upwards of seven
hundred pounds of buffalo meat daily, the allowance per diem for each
man being eight pounds: a portion not so extravagant as may at first
appear when allowance is made for bone and the entire want of
farinaceous food or vegetables.
There are other provision posts, Fort Augustus and Edmonton farther up
the river, from whence some furs are also procured. The Stone Indians
have threatened to cut off the supplies in going up to these
establishments to prevent their enemies from obtaining ammunition and
other European articles; but as these menaces have been frequently made
without being put in execution the traders now hear them without any
great alarm though they take every precaution to prevent being
surprised. Mr. Back and I were present when an old Cree communicated to
Mr. Prudens that the Indians spoke of killing all the white people in
that vicinity this year which information he received with perfect
composure and was amused as well as ourselves with the man’s judicious
remark which immediately followed, “A pretty state we shall then be in
without the goods you bring us.”
GOITRES.
The following remarks on a well-known disease are extracted from Dr.
Richardson’s Journal:
Bronchocele or Goitre is a common disorder at Edmonton. I examined
several of the individuals afflicted with it and endeavoured to obtain
every information on the subject from the most authentic sources. The
following facts may be depended upon. The disorder attacks those only
who drink the water of the river. It is indeed in its worst state
confined almost entirely to the half-breed women and children who
reside constantly at the fort and make use of river water drawn in the
winter through a hole cut in the ice. The men, being often from home on
journeys through the plain, when their drink is melted snow, are less
affected; and if any of them exhibit during the winter some incipient
symptoms of the complaint the annual summer voyage to the sea-coast
generally effects a cure. The natives who confine themselves to
snow-water in the winter and drink of the small rivulets which flow
through the plains in the summer are exempt from the attacks of this
disease.
These facts are curious inasmuch as they militate against the generally
received opinion that the disease is caused by drinking snow-water; an
opinion which seems to have originated from bronchocele being endemial
to subalpine districts.
The Saskatchewan at Edmonton is clear in the winter and also in the
summer except during the May and July floods. This distance from the
Rocky Mountains (which I suppose to be of primitive formation) is
upwards of one hundred and thirty miles. The neighbouring plains are
alluvial, the soil is calcareous and contains numerous travelled
fragments of limestone. At a considerable distance below Edmonton the
river, continuing its course through the plains, becomes turbid and
acquires a white colour. In this state it is drunk by the inmates of
Carlton House where the disease is known only by name. It is said that
the inhabitants of Rocky Mountain House, sixty miles nearer the source
of the river are more severely affected than those at Edmonton. The
same disease occurs near the sources of the Elk and Peace Rivers; but
in those parts of the country which are distant from the Rocky Mountain
Chain it is unknown although melted snow forms the only drink of the
natives for nine months of the year.
A residence of a single year at Edmonton is sufficient to render a
family bronchocelous. Many of the goitres acquire great size. Burnt
sponge has been tried and found to remove the disease but an exposure
to the same cause immediately reproduces it.
A great proportion of the children of women who have goitres are born
idiots with large heads and the other distinguishing marks of
_cretins_. I could not learn whether it was necessary that both parents
should have goitres to produce cretin children: indeed the want of
chastity in the half-breed women would be a bar to the deduction of any
inference on this head.
DEPARTURE FROM CARLTON HOUSE.
February 8.
Having recovered from the swellings and pains which our late march from
Cumberland had occasioned we prepared for the commencement of our
journey to Isle à la Crosse, and requisitions were made on both the
establishments for the means of conveyance and the necessary supply of
provisions for the party which were readily furnished. On the 9th the
carioles and sledges were loaded and sent off after breakfast; but Mr.
Back and I remained till the afternoon as Mr. Prudens had offered that
his horses should convey us to the encampment. At three P.M. we parted
from our kind host and, in passing through the gate, were honoured with
a salute of musketry. After riding six miles we joined the men at their
encampment which was made under the shelter of a few poplars. The dogs
had been so much fatigued in wading through the very deep snow with
their heavy burdens, having to drag upwards of ninety pounds’ weight
each, that they could get no farther. Soon after our arrival the snow
began to fall heavily and it continued through the greater part of the
night.
Our next day’s march was therefore particularly tedious, the snow being
deep and the route lying across an unvarying level, destitute of wood
except one small cluster of willows. In the afternoon we reached the
end of the plain and came to an elevation on which poplars, willows,
and some pines grew, where we encamped, having travelled ten miles. We
crossed three small lakes, two of fresh water and one of salt, near the
latter of which we encamped and were in consequence obliged to use for
our tea water made from snow which has always a disagreeable taste.
We had scarcely ascended the hill on the following morning when a large
herd of red-deer was perceived grazing at a little distance; and though
we were amply supplied with provision our Canadian companions could not
resist the temptation of endeavouring to add to our stock. A half-breed
hunter was therefore sent after them. He succeeded in wounding one but
not so as to prevent its running off with the herd in a direction wide
of our course. A couple of rabbits and a brace of wood partridges were
shot in the afternoon. There was an agreeable variety of hill and dale
in the scenery we passed through today, and sufficient wood for
ornament but not enough to crowd the picture. The valleys were
intersected by several small lakes and pools whose snowy covering was
happily contrasted with the dark green of the pine-trees which
surrounded them. After ascending a moderately high hill by a winding
path through a close wood we opened suddenly upon Lake Iroquois and had
a full view of its picturesque shores. We crossed it and encamped.
Though the sky was cloudless yet the weather was warm. We had the
gratification of finding a beaten track soon after we started on the
morning of the 12th and were thus enabled to walk briskly. We crossed
at least twenty hills and found a small lake or pool at the foot of
each. The destructive ravages of fire were visible during the greater
part of the day. The only wood we saw for miles together consisted of
pine-trees stripped of their branches and bark by this element: in
other parts poplars alone were growing which we have remarked
invariably to succeed the pine after a conflagration. We walked twenty
miles today but the direct distance was only sixteen.
The remains of an Indian hut were found in a deep glen and close to it
was placed a pile of wood which our companions supposed to cover a
deposit of provision. Our Canadian voyagers, induced by their
insatiable desire of procuring food, proceeded to remove the upper
pieces and examine its contents when, to their surprise, they found the
body of a female, clothed in leather, which appeared to have been
recently placed there. Her former garments, the materials for making a
fire, a fishing-line, a hatchet, and a bark dish were laid beside the
corpse. The wood was carefully replaced. A small owl, perched on a tree
near to the spot, called forth many singular remarks from our
companions as to its being a good or bad omen.
We walked the whole of the 13th over flat meadow-land which is much
resorted to by the buffalo at all seasons. Some herds of them were seen
which our hunters were too unskilful to approach. In the afternoon we
reached the Stinking Lake which is nearly of an oval form. Its shores
are very low and swampy to which circumstances and not to the bad
quality of the waters it owes its Indian name. Our observations place
its western part in latitude 53° 25′ 24″ North, longitude 107° 18′ 58″
West, variation 20° 32′ 10″ East.
After a march of fifteen miles and a half we encamped among a few pines
at the only spot where we saw sufficient wood for making our fire
during the day. The next morning about an hour after we had commenced
our march we came upon a beaten track and perceived recent marks of
snowshoes. In a short time an Iroquois joined us, who was residing with
a party of Cree Indians, to secure the meat and furs they should
collect for the North-West Company. He accompanied us as far as the
stage on which his meat was placed and then gave us a very pressing
invitation to halt for the day and partake of his fare which, as the
hour was too early, we declined, much to the annoyance of our Canadian
companions who had been cherishing the prospect of indulging their
amazing appetites at this well-furnished store ever since the man had
been with us. He gave them however a small supply previous to our
parting. The route now crossed some ranges of hills on which fir, birch
and poplar grew so thickly that we had much difficulty in getting the
sledges through the narrow pathway between them. In the evening we
descended from the elevated ground, crossed three swampy meadows, and
encamped at their northern extremity within a cluster of large
pine-trees, the branches of which were elegantly decorated with
abundance of a greenish yellow lichen. Our march was ten miles. The
weather was very mild, almost too warm for the exercise we were taking.
We had a strong gale from the North-West during the night which
subsided as the morning opened. One of the sledges had been so much
broken the day before in the woods that we had to divide its cargo
among the others. We started after this had been arranged and, finding
almost immediately a firm track, soon arrived at some Indian lodges to
which it led. The inhabitants were Crees belonging to the posts on the
Saskatchewan from whence they had come to hunt beaver. We made but a
short stay and proceeded through a swamp to Pelican Lake. Our view to
the right was bounded by a range of lofty hills which extended for
several miles in a north and south direction which, it may be remarked,
was that of all the hilly land we had passed since quitting the plain.
Pelican Lake is of an irregular form, about six miles from east to west
and eight from north to south; it decreases to the breadth of a mile
towards the northern extremity and is there terminated by a creek. We
went up this creek for a short distance and then struck into the woods
and encamped among a cluster of the firs which the Canadians term
cyprès (_Pinus banksiana_) having come fourteen miles and a half.
February 16.
Shortly after commencing the journey today we met an Indian and his
family who had come from the houses at Green Lake; they informed us the
track was well beaten the whole way. We therefore put forth our utmost
speed in the hope of reaching them by night but were disappointed, and
had to halt at dark about twelve miles from them in a fisherman’s hut
which was unoccupied. Frequent showers of snow fell during the day and
the atmosphere was thick and gloomy.
We started at an early hour the following morning and reached the
Hudson’s Bay Company’s post to breakfast, and were received very kindly
by Mr. MacFarlane, the gentleman in charge. The other establishment,
situated on the opposite side of the river, was under the direction of
Mr. Dugald Cameron, one of the partners of the North-West Company on
whom Mr. Back and I called soon after our arrival and were honoured
with a salute of musketry.
These establishments are small but said to be well situated for
procuring furs; as the numerous creeks in their vicinity are much
resorted to by the beaver, otter and musquash. The residents usually
obtain a superabundant supply of provision. This season however they
barely had sufficient for their own support, owing to the epidemic
which has incapacitated the Indians for hunting. The Green Lake lies
nearly north and south, is eighteen miles in length and does not exceed
one mile and a half of breadth in any part. The water is deep and it is
in consequence one of the last lakes in the country that is frozen.
Excellent tittameg and trout are caught in it from March to December
but after that time most of the fish remove to some larger lake.
We remained two days awaiting the return of some men who had been sent
to the Indian lodges for meat and who were to go on with us. Mr. Back
and I did not need this rest, having completely surmounted the pain
occasioned by the snowshoes. We dined twice with Mr. Cameron and
received from him many useful suggestions respecting our future
operations. This gentleman, having informed us that provisions would
probably be very scarce next spring in the Athabasca department in
consequence of the sickness of the Indians during the hunting season,
undertook at my request to cause a supply of pemmican to be conveyed
from the Saskatchewan to Isle à la Crosse for our use during the
winter, and I wrote to apprise Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood that they
would find it at the latter post when they passed, and also to desire
them to bring as much as the canoes would stow from Cumberland.
The atmosphere was clear and cold during our stay; observations were
obtained at the Hudson’s Bay Fort, latitude 54° 16′ 10″ North,
longitude 107° 29′ 52″ West, variation 22° 6′ 35″ East.
February 20.
Having been equipped with carioles, sledges and provisions from the two
posts, we this day recommenced our journey and were much amused by the
novelty of the salute given at our departure, the guns being
principally fired by the women in the absence of the men. Our course
was directed to the end of the lake and for a short distance along a
small river; we then crossed the woods to the Beaver River which we
found to be narrow and very serpentine, having moderately high banks.
We encamped about one mile and a half farther up among poplars. The
next day we proceeded along the river; it was winding and about two
hundred yards broad. We passed the mouths of two rivers whose waters it
receives; the latter one we were informed is a channel by which the
Indians go to the Lesser Slave Lake. The banks of the river became
higher as we advanced and were adorned with pines, poplars and willows.
Though the weather was very cold we travelled more comfortably than at
any preceding time since our departure from Cumberland as we had light
carioles which enabled us to ride nearly the whole day warmly covered
up with a buffalo robe. We were joined by Mr. McLeod of the North-West
Company who had kindly brought some things from Green Lake which our
sledges could not carry. Pursuing our route along the river we reached
at an early hour the upper extremity of the Grand Rapid where the ice
was so rough that the carioles and sledges had to be conveyed across a
point of land. Soon after noon we left the river, inclining North-East,
and directed our course North-West until we reached Long Lake and
encamped at its northern extremity, having come twenty-three miles.
This lake is about fourteen miles long and from three-quarters to one
mile and a half broad, its shores and islands low but well wooded.
There were frequent snow-showers during the day.
ISLE A LA CROSSE.
February 23.
The night was very stormy but the wind became more moderate in the
morning. We passed today through several nameless lakes and swamps
before we came to Train Lake which received its name from being the
place where the traders procured the birch to make their sledges or
traineaux; but this wood has been all used and there only remain pines
and a few poplars. We met some sledges laden with fish, kindly sent to
meet us by Mr. Clark of the Hudson’s Bay Company on hearing of our
approach. Towards the evening the weather became much more unpleasant
and we were exposed to a piercingly cold wind and much snowdrift in
traversing the Isle à la Crosse Lake; we were therefore highly pleased
at reaching the Hudson’s Bay House by six P.M. We were received in the
most friendly manner by Mr. Clark and honoured by volleys of musketry.
Similar marks of attention were shown to us on the following day by Mr.
Bethune, the partner in charge of the North-West Company’s fort. I
found here the letters which I had addressed from Cumberland in
November last to the partners of the North-West Company in the
Athabasca, which circumstance convinced me of the necessity of our
present journey.
These establishments are situated on the southern side of the lake and
close to each other. They are forts of considerable importance being
placed at a point of communication with the English River, the
Athabasca and Columbia Districts. The country around them is low and
intersected with water, and was formerly much frequented by beavers and
otters which however have been so much hunted by the Indians that their
number is greatly decreased. The Indians frequenting these forts are
the Crees and some Chipewyans; they scarcely ever come except in the
spring and autumn, in the former season to bring their winter’s
collection of furs and in the latter to get the stores they require.
Three Chipewyan lads came in during our stay to report what furs the
band to which they belonged had collected and to desire they might be
sent for, the Indians having declined bringing either furs or meat
themselves since the opposition between the Companies commenced. Mr.
Back drew a portrait of one of the boys.
Isle à la Crosse Lake receives its name from an island situated near
the forts on which the Indians formerly assembled annually to amuse
themselves at the game of the Cross. It is justly celebrated for
abundance of the finest tittameg, which weigh from five to fifteen
pounds. The residents live principally upon this most delicious fish
which fortunately can be eaten a long time without disrelish. It is
plentifully caught with nets throughout the year except for two or
three months.
March 4.
We witnessed the Aurora Borealis very brilliant for the second time
since our departure from Cumberland. A winter encampment is not a
favourable situation for viewing this phenomenon as the trees in
general hide the sky. Arrangements had been made for recommencing our
journey today but the wind was stormy and the snow had drifted too much
for travelling with comfort; we therefore stayed and dined with Mr.
Bethune who promised to render every assistance in getting pemmican
conveyed to us from the Saskatchewan to be in readiness for our canoes
when they might arrive in the spring; Mr. Clark also engaged to procure
six bags for us and to furnish our canoes with any other supplies which
might be wanted and could be spared from his post, and to contribute
his aid in forwarding the pemmican to the Athabasca if our canoes could
not carry it all.
I feel greatly indebted to this gentleman for much valuable information
respecting the country and the Indians residing to the north of Slave
Lake and for furnishing me with a list of stores he supposed we should
require. He had resided some years on Mackenzie’s River and had been
once so far towards its mouth as to meet the Esquimaux in great
numbers. But they assumed such a hostile attitude that he deemed it
unadvisable to attempt opening any communication with them and
retreated as speedily as he could.
The observations we obtained here showed that the chronometers had
varied their rates a little in consequence of the jolting of the
carioles, but their errors and rates were ascertained previous to our
departure. We observed the position of this fort to be latitude 55° 25′
35″ North, longitude 107° 51′ 00″ West, by lunars reduced back from
Fort Chipewyan, variation 22° 15′ 48″ West, dip 84° 13′ 35″.
March 5.
We recommenced our journey this morning, having been supplied with the
means of conveyance by both the Companies in equal proportions. Mr.
Clark accompanied us with the intention of going as far as the boundary
of his district. This gentleman was an experienced winter traveller and
we derived much benefit from his suggestions; he caused the men to
arrange the encampment with more attention to comfort and shelter than
our former companions had done. After marching eighteen miles we put up
on Gravel Point in the Deep River.
At nine the next morning we came to the commencement of Clear Lake. We
crossed its southern extremes and then went over a point of land to
Buffalo Lake and encamped after travelling twenty-six miles. After
supper we were entertained till midnight with paddling songs by our
Canadians who required very little stimulus beyond their natural
vivacity to afford us this diversion. The next morning we arrived at
the establishments which are situated on the western side of the lake
near a small stream called the Beaver River. They were small log
buildings hastily erected last October for the convenience of the
Indians who hunt in the vicinity. Mr. MacMurray, a partner in the
North-West Company, having sent to Isle à la Crosse an invitation to
Mr. Back and I, our carioles were driven to his post and we experienced
the kindest reception. These posts are frequented by only a few
Indians, Crees, and Chipewyans. The country round is not sufficiently
stocked with animals to afford support to many families and the traders
subsist almost entirely on fish caught in the autumn prior to the lake
being frozen but, the water being shallow, they remove to a deeper part
as soon as the lake is covered with ice. The Aurora Borealis was
brilliantly displayed on both the nights we remained here, but
particularly on the 7th when its appearances were most diversified and
the motion extremely rapid. Its coruscations occasionally concealed
from sight stars of the first magnitude in passing over them, at other
times these were faintly discerned through them; once I perceived a
stream of light to illumine the under surface of some clouds as it
passed along. There was no perceptible noise.
Mr. MacMurray gave a dance to his voyagers and the women; this is a
treat which they expect on the arrival of any stranger at the post.
We were presented by this gentleman with the valuable skin of a black
fox which he had entrapped some days before our arrival; it was
forwarded to England with other specimens.
Our observations place the North-West Company’s House in latitude 55°
53′ 00″ North, longitude 108° 51′ 10″ West, variation 22° 33′ 22″ East.
The shores of Buffalo Lake are of moderate height and well wooded but
immediately beyond the bank the country is very swampy and intersected
with water in every direction. At some distance from the western side
there is a conspicuous hill which we hailed with much pleasure as being
the first interruption to the tediously uniform scene we had for some
time passed through.
On the 10th we recommenced our journey after breakfast and travelled
quickly as we had the advantage of a well-beaten track. At the end of
eighteen miles we entered upon the river Loche which has a serpentine
course and is confined between alluvial banks that support stunted
willows and a few pines; we encamped about three miles farther on and
in the course of the next day’s march perceived several holes on the
ice and many unsafe places for the sledges. Our companions said the ice
of this river is always in the same insecure state, even during the
most severe winter, which they attributed to warm springs. Quitting the
river we crossed a portage and came upon the Methye Lake and soon
afterwards arrived at the trading posts on its western side. These were
perfect huts which had been hastily built after the commencement of the
last winter. We here saw two hunters who were Chipewyan half-breeds and
made many inquiries of them respecting the countries we expected to
visit, but we found them quite ignorant of every part beyond the
Athabasca Lake. They spoke of Mr. Hearne and of his companion
Matonnabee, but did not add to our stock of information respecting that
journey. It had happened before their birth but they remembered the
expedition of Sir Alexander Mackenzie towards the sea.
This is a picturesque lake about ten miles long and six broad and
receives its name from a species of fish caught in it but not much
esteemed; the residents never eat any part but the liver except through
necessity, the dogs dislike even that. The tittameg and trout are also
caught in the fall of the year. The position of the houses by our
observations is latitude 56° 24′ 20″ North, longitude 109° 23′ 06″
West, variation 22° 50′ 28″ East.
On the 13th we renewed our journey and parted from Mr. Clark to whom we
were much obliged for his hospitality and kindness. We soon reached the
Methye Portage and had a very pleasant ride across it in our carioles.
The track was good and led through groups of pines, so happily placed
that it would not have required a great stretch of imagination to fancy
ourselves in a well-arranged park. We had now to cross a small lake and
then gradually ascended hills beyond it until we arrived at the summit
of a lofty chain of mountains commanding the most picturesque and
romantic prospect we had yet seen in this country. Two ranges of high
hills run parallel to each other for several miles until the faint blue
haze hides their particular characters, when they slightly change their
course and are lost to the view. The space between them is occupied by
nearly a level plain through which a river pursues a meandering course
and receives supplies from the creeks and rills issuing from the
mountains on each side. The prospect was delightful even amid the snow
and though marked with all the cheerless characters of winter; how much
more charming must it be when the trees are in leaf and the ground is
arrayed in summer verdure! Some faint idea of the difference was
conveyed to my mind by witnessing the effect of the departing rays of a
brilliant sun. The distant prospect however is surpassed in grandeur by
the wild scenery which appeared immediately below our feet. There the
eye penetrates into vast ravines two or three hundred feet in depth
that are clothed with trees and lie on either side of the narrow
pathway descending to the river over eight successive ridges of hills.
At one spot termed the Cockscomb the traveller stands insulated as it
were on a small slip where a false step might precipitate him into the
glen. From this place Mr. Back took an interesting and accurate sketch
to allow time for which we encamped early, having come twenty-one
miles.
The Methye Portage is about twelve miles in extent and over this space
the canoes and all their cargoes are carried, both in going to and from
the Athabasca department. It is part of the range of mountains which
separates the waters flowing south from those flowing north. According
to Sir Alexander Mackenzie “this range of hills continues in a
South-West direction until its local height is lost between the
Saskatchewan and Elk Rivers, close on the banks of the former in
latitude 53° 36′ North, longitude 113° 45′ West, when it appears to
take its course due north.” Observations taken in the spring by Mr.
Hood place the north side of the portage in latitude 56° 41′ 40″ North,
longitude 109° 52′ 15″ West, variation 25° 2′ 30″ East, dip 85° 7′ 27″.
At daylight on the 14th we began to descend the range of hills leading
towards the river, and no small care was required to prevent the
sledges from being broken in going down these almost perpendicular
heights, or being precipitated into the glens on each side. As a
precautionary measure the dogs were taken off and the sledges guided by
the men, notwithstanding which they descended with amazing rapidity and
the men were thrown into the most ridiculous attitudes in endeavouring
to stop them. When we had arrived at the bottom I could not but feel
astonished at the laborious task which the voyagers have twice in the
year to encounter at this place in conveying their stores backwards and
forwards. We went across the Clear Water River which runs at the bases
of these hills, and followed an Indian track along its northern bank,
by which we avoided the White Mud and Good Portages. We afterwards
followed the river as far as the Pine Portage, when we passed through a
very romantic defile of rocks which presented the appearance of Gothic
ruins, and their rude characters were happily contrasted with the
softness of the snow and the darker foliage of the pines which crowned
their summits. We next crossed the Cascade Portage which is the last on
the way to the Athabasca Lake, and soon afterwards came to some Indian
tents containing five families belonging to the Chipewyan tribe. We
smoked the calumet in the chief’s tent, whose name was the Thumb, and
distributed some tobacco and a weak mixture of spirits and water among
the men. They received this civility with much less grace than the
Crees, and seemed to consider it a matter of course. There was an utter
neglect of cleanliness and a total want of comfort in their tents; and
the poor creatures were miserably clothed. Mr. Frazer, who accompanied
us from the Methye Lake, accounted for their being in this forlorn
condition by explaining that this band of Indians had recently
destroyed everything they possessed as a token of their great grief for
the loss of their relatives in the prevailing sickness. It appears that
no article is spared by these unhappy men when a near relative dies;
their clothes and tents are cut to pieces, their guns broken, and every
other weapon rendered useless if some person do not remove these
articles from their sight, which is seldom done. Mr. Back sketched one
of the children which delighted the father very much, who charged the
boy to be very good since his picture had been drawn by a great chief.
We learned that they prize pictures very highly and esteem any they can
get, however badly executed, as efficient charms. They were unable to
give us any information respecting the country beyond the Athabasca
Lake which is the boundary of their peregrinations to the northward.
Having been apprised of our coming they had prepared an encampment for
us; but we had witnessed too many proofs of their importunity to expect
that we could pass the night near them in any comfort whilst either
spirits, tobacco or sugar remained in our possession; and therefore
preferred to go about two miles farther along the river and to encamp
among a cluster of fine pine-trees after a journey of sixteen miles.
On the morning of the 15th, in proceeding along the river, we perceived
a strong smell of sulphur, and on the north shore found a quantity of
it scattered, which seemed to have been deposited by some spring in the
neighbourhood: it appeared very pure and good. We continued our course
the whole day along the river, which is about four hundred yards wide,
has some islands, and is confined between low land extending from the
bases of the mountains on each side. We put up at the end of thirteen
miles and were then joined by a Chipewyan who came, as we supposed, to
serve as our guide to Pierre au Calumet but, as none of the party could
communicate with our new friend otherwise than by signs, we waited
patiently until the morning to see what he intended to do. The wind
blew a gale during the night and the snow fell heavily. The next day
our guide led us to the Pembina River which comes from the southward
where we found traces of Indians who appeared to have quitted this
station the day before; we had therefore the benefit of a good track
which our dogs much required as they were greatly fatigued, having
dragged their loads through very deep snow for the last two days. A
moose-deer crossed the river just before the party: this animal is
plentiful in the vicinity. We encamped in a pleasant well-sheltered
place, having travelled fourteen miles.
A short distance on the following morning brought us to some Indian
lodges which belonged to an old Chipewyan chief named the Sun and his
family consisting of five hunters, their wives and children. They were
delighted to see us and, when the object of our expedition had been
explained to them, expressed themselves much interested in our
progress; but they could not give a particle of information respecting
the countries beyond the Athabasca Lake. We smoked with them and gave
each person a glass of mixed spirits and some tobacco. A Canadian
servant of the North-West Company who was residing with them informed
us that this family had lost numerous relatives, and that the
destruction of property which had been made after their deaths was the
only cause for the pitiable condition in which we saw them as the whole
family were industrious hunters and therefore were usually better
provided with clothes and other useful articles than most of the
Indians. We purchased from them a pair of snowshoes in exchange for
some ammunition. The Chipewyans are celebrated for making them good and
easy to walk in; we saw some here upwards of six feet long and three
broad. With these unwieldy clogs an active hunter, in the spring when
there is a crust on the surface of the snow, will run down a moose or
red-deer.
We made very slow progress after leaving this party on account of the
deep snow, but continued along the river until we reached its junction
with the Athabasca or Elk River. We obtained observations on an island
a little below the Forks which gave longitude 111° 8′ 42″ West,
variation 24° 18′ 20″ East. Very little wood was seen during this day’s
march. The western shore near the Forks is destitute of trees; it is
composed of lofty perpendicular cliffs which were now covered with
snow. The eastern shore supports a few pines.
March 18.
Soon after our departure from the encampment we met two men from the
establishment at Pierre au Calumet, who gave us correct information of
its situation and distance. Having the benefit of their track we
marched at a tolerably quick pace and made twenty-two miles in the
course of the day though the weather was very disagreeable for
travelling, being stormy with constant snow. We kept along the river
the whole time: its breadth is about two miles. The islands appear
better furnished with wood than its banks, the summits of which are
almost bare. Soon after we had encamped our Indian guide rejoined us;
he had remained behind the day before without consulting us to
accompany a friend on a hunting excursion. On his return he made no
endeavour to explain the reason of his absence but sat down coolly and
began to prepare his supper. This behaviour made us sensible that
little dependence is to be placed on the continuance of an Indian guide
when his inclination leads him away.
Early the next morning we sent forward the Indian and a Canadian to
apprise the gentleman in charge of Pierre au Calumet of our approach;
and after breakfast the rest of the party proceeded along the river for
that station which we reached in the afternoon. The senior partner of
the North-West Company in the Athabasca department, Mr. John Stuart,
was in charge of the post. Though he was quite ignorant until this
morning of our being in the country we found him prepared to receive us
with great kindness and ready to afford every information and
assistance agreeably to the desire conveyed in Mr. Simon McGillivray’s
circular letter. This gentleman had twice traversed this continent and
reached the Pacific by the Columbia River; he was therefore fully
conversant with the different modes of travelling and with the
obstacles that may be expected in passing through unfrequented
countries. His suggestions and advice were consequently very valuable
to us but, not having been to the northward of the Great Slave Lake, he
had no knowledge of that line of country except what he had gained from
the reports of Indians. He was of opinion however that positive
information on which our course of proceedings might safely be
determined could be procured from the Indians that frequent the north
side of the lake when they came to the forts in the spring. He
recommended my writing to the partner in charge of that department,
requesting him to collect all the intelligence he could and to provide
guides and hunters from the tribe best acquainted with the country
through which we proposed to travel.
To our great regret Mr. Stuart expressed much doubt as to our
prevailing upon any experienced Canadian voyagers to accompany us to
the sea in consequence of their dread of the Esquimaux who, he informed
us, had already destroyed the crew of one canoe which had been sent
under Mr. Livingstone to open a trading communication with those who
reside near the mouth of the Mackenzie River; and he also mentioned
that the same tribe had driven away the canoes under Mr. Clark’s
direction, going to them on a similar object, to which circumstance I
have alluded in my remarks at Isle à la Crosse.
This was unpleasant information but we were comforted by Mr. Stuart’s
assurance that himself and his partners would use every endeavour to
remove their fears as well as to promote our views in every other way;
and he undertook as a necessary part of our equipment in the spring to
prepare the bark and other materials for constructing two canoes at
this post.
Mr. Stuart informed us that the residents at Fort Chipewyan, from the
recent sickness of their Indian hunters, had been reduced to subsist
entirely on the produce of their fishing-nets, which did not yield more
than a bare sufficiency for their support; and he kindly proposed to us
to remain with him until the spring but, as we were most desirous to
gain all the information we could as early as possible and Mr. Stuart
assured us that the addition of three persons would not be materially
felt in their large family at Chipewyan, we determined on proceeding
thither and fixed on the 22nd for our departure.
Pierre au Calumet receives its name from the place where the stone is
procured, of which many of the pipes used by the Canadians and Indians
are made. It is a clayey limestone, impregnated with various shells.
The house, which is built on the summit of a steep bank rising almost
perpendicular to the height of one hundred and eighty feet, commands an
extensive prospect along this fine river and over the plains which
stretch out several miles at the back of it, bounded by hills of
considerable height and apparently better furnished with wood than the
neighbourhood of the fort where the trees grow very scantily. There had
been an establishment belonging to the Hudson’s Bay Company on the
opposite bank of the river but it was abandoned in December last, the
residents not being able to procure provision from their hunters having
been disabled by the epidemic sickness which has carried off one-third
of the Indians in these parts. They belong to the Northern Crees, a
name given them from their residing in the Athabasca department. There
are now but few families of these men who formerly by their numbers and
predatory habits spread terror among the natives of this part of the
country.
There are springs of bituminous matter on several of the islands near
these houses; and the stones on the riverbank are much impregnated with
this useful substance. There is also another place remarkable for the
production of a sulphureous salt which is deposited on the surface of a
round-backed hill about half a mile from the beach and on the marshy
ground underneath it. We visited these places at a subsequent period of
the journey and descriptions of them will appear in Dr. Richardson’s
Mineralogical Notices.
The latitude of the North-West Company’s House is 57° 24′ 06″ North,
but this was the only observation we could obtain, the atmosphere being
cloudy. Mr. Stuart had an excellent thermometer which indicated the
lowest state of temperature to be 43° below zero. He told me 45° was
the lowest temperature he had ever witnessed at the Athabasca or Great
Slave Lake after many years’ residence. On the 21st it rose above zero
and at noon attained the height of 43°; the atmosphere was sultry, snow
fell constantly, and there was quite an appearance of a change in the
season. On the 22nd we parted from our hospitable friend and
recommenced our journey, but under the expectation of seeing him again
in May, at which time the partners of the Company usually assemble at
Fort Chipewyan where we hoped the necessary arrangements for our future
proceedings would be completed. We encamped at sunset at the end of
fourteen miles, having walked the whole way along the river which
preserves nearly a true north course and is from four hundred to six
hundred yards broad. The banks are high and well clothed with the
liard, spruce, fir, alder, birch-tree and willows. Having come nineteen
miles and a half on the 23rd we encamped among pines of a great height
and girth.
Showers of snow fell until noon on the following day but we continued
our journey along the river whose banks and islands became gradually
lower as we advanced and less abundantly supplied with wood except
willows. We passed an old Canadian who was resting his wearied dogs
during the heat of the sun. He was carrying meat from some Indian
lodges to Fort Chipewyan, having a burden exceeding two hundred and
fifty pounds on his sledge which was dragged by two miserable dogs. He
came up to our encampment after dark. We were much amused by the
altercation that took place between him and our Canadian companions as
to the qualifications of their respective dogs. This however is such a
general topic of conversation among the voyagers in the encampment that
we should not probably have remarked it had not the old man frequently
offered to bet the whole of his wages that his two dogs, poor and lean
as they were, would drag their load to the Athabasca Lake in less time
than any three of theirs. Having expressed our surprise at his apparent
temerity he coolly said the men from the lower countries did not
understand the management of their dogs and that he depended on his
superior skill in driving, and we soon gathered from his remarks that
the voyagers of the Athabasca department consider themselves very
superior to any other. The only reasons which he could assign were that
they had borne their burdens across the terrible Methye Portage and
that they were accustomed to live harder and more precariously.
March 25.
Having now the guidance of the old Canadian we sent forward the Indian
and one of our men with letters to the gentleman at the Athabasca Lake.
The rest of the party set off afterwards and kept along the river until
ten when we branched off by portages into the Embarras River, the usual
channel of communication in canoes with the lake. It is a narrow and
serpentine stream confined between alluvial banks which support pines,
poplars and willows. We had not advanced far before we overtook the two
men despatched by us this morning. The stormy weather had compelled
them to encamp as there was too much drifting of the snow for any
attempt to cross the lake. We were obliged, though most reluctantly, to
follow their example but comforted ourselves with the reflection that
this was the first time we had been stopped by the weather during our
long journey which was so near at an end. The gale afterwards
increased, the squalls at night became very violent, disburdened the
trees of the snow and gave us the benefit of a continual fall of
patches from them, in addition to the constant shower. We therefore
quickly finished our suppers and retired under the shelter of our
blankets.
ARRIVAL AT FORT CHIPEWYAN.
March 26.
The boisterous weather continued through the night and it was not
before six this morning that the wind became apparently moderate and
the snow ceased. Two of the Canadians were immediately sent off with
letters to the gentlemen at Fort Chipewyan. After breakfast we also
started but our Indian friend, having a great indisposition to move in
such weather, remained by the fire. We soon quitted the river and,
after crossing a portage, a small lake and a point of land, came to the
borders of the Mammawee Lake. We then found our error as to the
strength of the wind, and that the gale still blew violently and there
was so much drifting of the snow as to cover the distant objects by
which our course could be directed. We fortunately got a glimpse
through this cloud of a cluster of islands in the direction of the
houses, and decided on walking towards them; but in doing this we
suffered very much from the cold and were obliged to halt under the
shelter of them and await the arrival of our Indian guide. He conducted
us between these islands, over a small lake, and by a swampy river into
the Athabasca Lake, from whence the establishments were visible. At
four P.M. we had the pleasure of arriving at Fort Chipewyan and of
being received by Messrs. Keith and Black, the partners of the
North-West Company in charge, in the most kind and hospitable manner.
Thus terminated a winter’s journey of eight hundred and fifty-seven
miles, in the progress of which there was a great intermixture of
agreeable and disagreeable circumstances. Could the amount of each be
balanced I suspect the latter would much preponderate; and amongst
these the initiation into walking in snowshoes must be considered as
prominent. The suffering it occasions can be but faintly imagined by a
person who thinks upon the inconvenience of marching with a weight of
between two and three pounds constantly attached to galled feet and
swelled ankles. Perseverance and practice only will enable the novice
to surmount this pain.
The next evil is the being constantly exposed to witness the wanton and
unnecessary cruelty of the men to their dogs, especially those of the
Canadians who beat them unmercifully and habitually vent on them the
most dreadful and disgusting imprecations. There are other
inconveniences which, though keenly felt during the day’s journey, are
speedily forgotten when stretched out in the encampment before a large
fire, you enjoy the social mirth of your companions who usually pass
the evening in recounting their former feats in travelling. At this
time the Canadians are always cheerful and merry and the only bar to
their comfort arises from the frequent interruption occasioned by the
dogs who are constantly prowling about the circle and snatching at
every kind of food that happens to be within their reach. These useful
animals are a comfort to them afterwards by the warmth they impart when
lying down by their side or feet as they usually do. But the greatest
gratifications a traveller in these regions enjoys are derived from the
hospitable welcome he receives at every trading post, however poor the
means of the host may be; and from being disrobed even for a short time
of the trappings of a voyager and experiencing the pleasures of
cleanness.
The following are the estimated distances in statute miles which Mr.
Back and I had travelled since our departure from Cumberland:
From Cumberland House to Carlton House: 263.
From Carlton House to Isle à la Crosse: 230.
From Isle à la Crosse to north side of the Methye Portage: 124.
From the Methye Portage to Fort Chipewyan: 240.
Total: 857 miles.