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THE HOME OF B. HELLER & CO.
CALUMET AVENUE AND 40th STREET, CHICAGO
[Illustration]
When in Chicago be sure to visit our factory. We invite Inspection and
will be pleased to show you through our plant.
_B. HELLER & CO._
FIFTH EDITION
H
SECRETS OF
MEAT CURING
AND
SAUSAGE MAKING
HOW TO CURE
HAMS, SHOULDERS, BACON,
CORNED BEEF, ETC.
AND
HOW TO MAKE ALL
KINDS OF
SAUSAGE, ETC.
TO COMPLY WITH THE
PURE FOOD LAWS
PUBLISHED BY
B. HELLER & CO.
MANUFACTURING CHEMISTS
CHICAGO, U. S. A.
December, 1922
INDEX
A
Age for Killing, 173
Ant-Bane, 295
Aseptifume, 259
Atomizer for Insecticides and Liquid Disinfectants, 299
Auto-Glo, 290
B
Bacon, Advice on Curing, 217
Bacon, Breakfast, How to Pump, 63
Bacon, Failure in Curing, Cause of, 234
Bacon, Heavy Bellies, How to Cure, 62
Bacon, How to Keep for Six Months, 212
Bacon, How to Keep for a Year, 90
Bacon, How to Wash Before Smoking, 90
Bacon, Light Bellies, How to Cure, 62
Bacon, Molding, How to Prevent, 239
Bacon, Sugar Cured Breakfast, 62
Barometer, Paper, How to Make, 193
Barrel Packing, 112
Barrel Pork, Description of, 95
Barrel Pork, How to Cure, 96
Barrel Pork, Need Not Be Overhauled, 97
Barrel Pork, Temperature for Curing, 96
Bedbug Killer, 293
Beef Cheeks, Direction for Dry Salting, 120
Beef Cheeks, How to Cure for Bologna and Frankfurts, 119
Beef Cheeks, How to Cure for Canning, 101
Beef Hams, How to Cure, 69
Beef Hearts, How to Cure for Bologna, 121
Beef Livers, How to Cure, 104
Beef Tongue, Garlic Flavored, 100
Beef Tongue, How to Cure, 99
Beef Trimmings, How to Cure, 111
Begin Curing Meat in the Pen, 32
Belly Pork, Description, 95
Berliner Style Ham, How to Make, 109
Berliner Style Ham Meat, How to Cure, 108
Blood Sausage, 137
Blood Sausage, Directions for Making, 138
Bockwurst, How to Make, 147
Boiling Bologna, Large, 116
Boiling Bologna, Round, 116
Boiling Ham, 74
Boiling the Brine, 82
Bologna, Coating to Prevent Mold, 219
Bologna, Drawing Water and Being Dry, 202
Bologna, How to Make from Fresh Beef, 113
Boiling Thermometers, 274
Bologna Fat, How to Salt, 116
Bologna, Freeze-Em Pickle Used for, 248
Bologna, How to Make Red Without Color, 244
Bologna, How to Boil, 116
Bologna Meat, How to Cure, 110
Bologna Sausage, Formula, 114
Bologna, Taking Water in Cooking, 216
Bologna, Why It Shrivels, 216
Bologna, Why It Draws Water, 198
Bologna, Without Artificial Coloring, 244
Boneless Ham, 107
Boneless Rolled Butt Sausage, 107
Boneless Rolled Shoulder, How to Cure, 59
Boston Shoulders, 56
Brains, How to Keep from Spoiling, 148
Branding Hams, 222
Brine, Absorbs Foreign Odors, 91
Brine, Boiling, 228
Brine, How to Boil, 82
Brine, How Long Should Be Used, 91
Brine, Ropy or Stringy, Cause of, 81
Brine, Temperature It Should Be, 47
Brine Testing Hydrometers, 291
Brine Troubles, How to Overcome, 210
Brine, When to Use Twice, 74
Brass Polish, 285, 286 and 287
Braunschweiger Liver Sausage, How to Make, 135
Bull Meat, Why It Is Best for Sausage, 193
Bull-Meat-Brand-Flour, Description of, 260, 261
Bull-Meat-Brand-Flour, Imitation, 203
Bull-Meat-Brand-Flour, Imitation, 236
Bursting of Casings, How to Prevent, 125
Butcher Business, How to Start, 222
Butt Pork, Description of, 95
Butt Sausage, 107
Butts, How to Cure in Closed-up Tierces, 106
Butts, How to Cure in Open Tierces, 105
Butts, How to Overhaul in Open Packages, 106
Butts, Quantity of Brine Necessary for Curing, 105
Butts, Shoulders, How to Cure, 104
Butts, Square Cut, How to Cure, 56
C
California Hams, How to Cure, 56
Calves’ Stomachs or Rennets, How to Handle, 80
Casings, Bursting, How to Prevent, 125
Casing Color, 269, 270, 273
Casings, for Holstein Style Sausage, How to Color, 143
Casings, for Polish Style Sausage, How to Color, 146
Casings, for Swedish Style Metwurst, How to Color, 144
Casings, Frankfurts, How to Color, 119
Casings, How to Clean, 187
Casings, How to Color in Government Inspected Packing House, 117
Casings, How to Prepare Before Stuffing, 124
Casings, How to Remove Fat, 226
Casings, Shrinking, How to Prevent, 125
Cattle and Sheep Dip, 298
Celery Zest, 266
Cervelat Sausage, How to Make, 140
Cheeks, Beef, How to Cure for Canning, 101
Cheese, Head, How to Make, 131
Chemists, Consulting, 25
Chile Powder, 264
Chill Room Temperature, 43
Chilling Meats to Be Cured, 72
Chipped Beef, How to Make, 69
Chow Chow, 156
Cleaning Lard Tierces, 87
Cleansing Curing Packages, 82
Clear Back Pork, Description, 95
Clear Bean Pork, Description, 95
Clear Brisket Pork, Description, 95
Cold Storine, Legal to Use, 243
Cold Storine, 255
Coloring Frankfurt Sausage Casings, 119
Coloring Sausage Casings, 117
Coloring Sausage Meat Artificially Is Illegal, 231
Compound Lard, 167
Compounding Lard with Cottonseed Oil, 168
Condimentine, “A”, 251
Condimentine, “B”, 252
Condition of Meat Before Curing, 47
Cooked Corned Beef, How to Make, 65
Cooking Thermometers, 275
Cooler, How to Build, 215
Cooler, Temperature for Dry Salting, 94
Coolers, Why They Sweat, 242
Copper Polish, 286 and 288
Corned Beef Brine, How to Make, 65
Corned Beef, Cooked, How to Make, 68
Corned Beef, Garlic Flavored, 67
Corned Beef, How to Know When Fully Cured, 66
Corned Beef, How to Pump, 67
Corned Beef, Importance of Making, 64
Corned Beef, Rolled and Spiced, 71
Corned Beef, Seasoning of, 66
Corned Beef, Tough and Salty, 211
Cotton Seed Oil Lard Compound, 168
Cured Meat, Keeping During Summer, 238
Curing Dried Salt Meat, 93
Curing Hams, 50
Curing Meat, Cause of Failure, 241
Curing Meat from Farmer-Killed Hogs, 240
Curing Meat, General Hints on Curing, 72
Curing Meats, Quickest Way, 209
Curing Packages, How to Cleanse, 82
Curing Pork the Year Around, 33
Curing Shoulders, 56
Curing Vats, Difference in Size, 53
Curing with the Freeze-Em-Pickle Process, 48
Cutting the Hind Shank Bone, 39
Cutting Meat, Experience Necessary, 224
D
Deodorine, 258
Difference Between Bull-Meat-Brand-Flour and Potato Flour, 201
Dill Pickles, 157
Disinfectant, 280
Drain Pipes, How to Open Stopped-up, 285
Dressing Hogs on the Farm, 183
Dressing Mutton, 181
Dressing Poultry, 158
Dried Beef Ends, How to Utilize, 213
Dried Beef, Fancy, How to Make, 69
Dried Beef, How to Keep for a Year, 90
Dried Beef, Why It Does Not Thoroughly Dry, 192
Dried Salt Meat, Wash Before Smoking, 90
Drippings from Refrigerator Pipes, 97
Dry Salt Meats, 92
Dry Salt Curing, Without an Ice Machine, 94
Dry Salt Side Meats, How to Cure, 93
Dry Salt Sides, How Long to Cure, 94
E
Eggs, How to Preserve, 229
Enamel Cleaner, 290
Extra Long Clears, Description, 92
Extra Short Clears, Description, 92
Extra Short Ribs, Description, 92
F
Facing Hams in a Packing House, 40
Family Pork, Lean, Description, 95
Farmer-Killed Hogs, How to Cure, 240
Fat, How to Salt for Bologna, 116
Fat Trimmings, Utilizing, 247
Feet, Pigs’, Fresh, 148
Fertilizer, How to Make from Beef Blood, 200
Fish Color; Pure Food, 274
Flavors, Prepared Sausage, 262 and 263
Flour, Bull-Meat-Brand, Description, 260 and 261
Fly Chaser, Price List, 298
Fly Paper, Sticky, How to Make, 159
Food Laws, Complying with in Curing Meat, 237
Frankfurt Casings, How to Color, 119
Frankfurt Casings, Momentary Dipping of, 117
Frankfurts, How to Make Red Without Color, 244
Frankfurts, How to Make from Fresh Beef, 113
Frankfurts, How to Make without Artificial Color, 110
Frankfurts, How to Make to Comply with Pure Food Laws, 110
Frankfurt Sausage, How to Make, 118
Frankfurt Sausage Meat, How to Cure, 110
Freeze-Em, 256 and 257
Freeze-Em Pickle, Process, 48, 49
Freeze-Em Pickle for Blood Sausage, 137
Freeze-Em Pickle for Curing Bacon, 62
Barrel Pork, 96
Beef, 65
Beef Trimmings, 111
Beef Hams and Shoulders, 69
Bologna and Frankfurts from Fresh Beef, How to Make, 113
Cheeks, 101
Dry Salt Meat, 93, 120
Hams, 50
Livers, 103
Meat Without Ice Machine, 94
Pigs’ Feet, 149
Shoulders, 56
Tongues, 99
Freeze-Em Pickle for Curing Meat for Bockwurst, 147
Bologna Sausage, 110, 119
Boneless Hams, 107
Boneless Shoulders, 59
German Style Ham Sausage, 123
Hamburger, 127
Head Cheese, 131
Holstein Style Sausage, 142
Liver Sausage, 134
Metwurst, 144
Polish Style Sausage, 145
Rolled Spiced Beef, 71
Freeze-Em Pickle, Description of, 49, 248
Different from Freeze-Em, 209
Directions for Using, 48, 56, 62, 65, 69
Directions for Pumping, 76
Guaranty, 250
Imitation, 225
Keeps Meat Red, 244
Legal Everywhere, 196
Legal to Use, 206
Fresh Pigs’ Feet, How to Keep from Spoiling, 148
Fresh Tripe, How to Keep from Spoiling, 148
Fuller’s Earth, How Used to Refine Lard, 169
Furniture Polish, 292
G
Garlic-Flavored Corned Beef, 67
Garlic in Powdered Form, 267 and 268
General Hints for Curing Meats, 72
German Style Ham Sausage, How to Make, 123
Golden Gloss Shine, 288
Guaranty on Casing Mixture, 271
Guaranty on Freeze-Em Pickle, 250
Gutting Hogs in a Packing House, 39
Gutting Hogs on the Farm, 186
Gutting Mutton, 182
H
Hamburger Sausage, How to Make, 127
Hamburger Seasoning, 262 and 263
Hamburger Steak, How to Season, 126
Ham Facing in a Packing House, 40
Ham-Roll-Ine, 254
Ham Sausage, German Style, How to Make, 123
Hams and Superior Hams, 84
Hams, Advice on Curing, 217
Hams, Boneless (Sausage), 107
Hams, California, How to Cure, 56
Hams, Curing in Molasses and Syrup Barrels, 52
Hams, How Packers Brand, 222
Hams, How to Boil, 74
Hams, How to Cure, 50
Hams, How to Cure in Closed-Up Tierces, 54
Hams, How to Cure in Open Barrels, 51
Hams, How to Keep for a Year, 90
Hams, How to Overhaul in Open Packages, 53
Hams, How to Pump, 76
Hams, How to Wash Before Smoking, 90
Hams, Keeping for Six Months, 212
Hams, Molding, How to Prevent, 239
Hams, Picnic, How to Cure, 56
Hams, Quantity of Brine to Use for 100 lbs., 52
Hams, Shape of Vats for Curing, 53
Hams, Sour, Some Causes Why They Sour, 83
Hams, Souring, How to Prevent, 196
Hams, Souring in the Hock, How to Prevent, 213
Hams, Souring in the Smoke House, 225
Hams, Use of Molasses and Syrup Barrels in Curing, 52
Head Cheese, How to Make, 131
Head Cheese, How to Make Solid, 239
Head Cheese Meat, How to Cure, 131
Hearts, How to Cure for Sausage, 121
Hides, Green, How to Trim, 190
Hides, How Long to Cure, 190
Hides, How to Handle, 187
Hides, How to Stack When Salting, 189
Hides, Proper Storage for Same, 188
Hides, Quantity of Salt to Use for Salting, 189
Hides, Salt to Use for Salting, 188
Hog Chill Room Ventilation, 42
Hog Gutting in a Packing House, 39
Hog Hoisting Machines, 34
Hog Livers, How to Cure, 103
Hog Scald, 278
Hog Scalding in a Packing House, 36
Hog Scrapping in a Packing House, 38
Hog Splitting in a Packing House, 41
Hog Sticking, 34
Hog Tongues, How to Cure, 101
Hogs, How to Dress on the Farm, 183
Hogs, How to Gut on the Farm, 186
Hogs, How to Kill on the Farm, 183
Hoisting Hogs in a Large Packing House, 33
Holstein Style Sausage, Directions for Making, 142
Holstein Style Sausage, How to Color Casings, 143
Horns, How to Polish, 192
Horse Radish, 154
Hydrometers, 276
I
Ice vs. Ice Machines in Small Plants, 200
Ice Water, 74
Indelible Marking Ink, 301
Indelible Ink Eradicator, 301
Ink for Office Use and Fountain Pen, 300
Italian Style Salami Sausage, How to Make, 141
J
Jell-Jell, 265
K
Keeping Sausage in Warm Weather, 148
Killing and Dressing Cattle, 175
Killing Hogs on the Farm, 183
Killing Mutton, 181
Killing on the Farm, 173
Knives, How to Sharpen for Meat Grinding Machines, 240
Konservirungs-Salt, White and Red Berliner Brand, Price List, 253
Konservirungs-Salt, Legality of, 242
Kraut, Sauer, How to Make, 155
L
Lard and Tallow Purifier, 277
Lard, Compound, 167
Lard, Handling in a Settling Tank and Agitator, 165
Lard, How It Is Refined in Packing Houses, 169
Lard, How to Purify, 166
Lard, How to Refine with Fuller’s Earth, 169
Lard, How to Render, 160
Lard, How to Settle in a Settling Tank, 162
Lard, Not Purified, 163
Lard, Purifier, 277
Lard, Purifying with Only a Common Kettle, 163
Lard, Rendering in a Jacket Kettle, 161
Lard, Rendering in a Steam Jacket Kettle, 207
Lard, Separating from Water, 230
Lard, Strong, from Boars, 238
Lard, Tierces, How to Cleanse, 87
Lard, Why It Foams When Using Purifier, 202
Lard, Why Oil Separates from It, 218
Larding Needles, How Used, 241
Leaf Lard Pulling in a Packing House, 40
Lean Backs, Description, 92
Lean End Pork, Description, 95
Liver Sausage, 134
Liver Sausage, Braunsweiger, 135
Liver Sausage, Directions for Making, 134
Liver Sausage, How to Smoke, 136
Liver Sausage Meat, How to Cure, 134
Livers, How to Cure, 103
Livers, How to Cure, 104
Loin Back, Description, 92
Loin Pork, Description, 95
Long Clears, Description, 92
Lunch Ham Meat, How to Cure, 108
M
Marble Cleaner, 289
Meat, Condition Before Curing, 47
Meat, Curing Failure, Cause of, 241
Meat, Curing, Quickest Way, 209
Meat, Cutting, Experience Necessary, 224
Meat, Fresh, Molding in the Cooler, 233
Meat Grinder Knives, How to Sharpen, 240
Meat, How to Chill for Curing, 72
Meat, How to Cure from Farm-Killed Hogs, 240
Meat, Rusty, Cause of, 227
Mess Pork, Description of, 95
Mess Pork, Short Cut, Description of, 95
Metal Polish, Description, 286, 287 and 288
Mice Killer, 297
Mince Meat, 152
Mold, How to Prevent on Sausage, Hams and Bacons, 239
Moth Powder, 295
Mutton, How to Dress, 181
Mutton, How to Gut, 182
Mutton, How to Kill, 181
N
Neat’s Foot Oil, 172
New England Style Ham, How to Make Solid, 239
New England Style Pressed Ham, How to Make, 109
New England Style Pressed Ham Meat, How to Cure, 108
New York Shoulder, Description, 56
O
Oil, Neat’s Foot, 172
Overhauling Barreled Pork, 97
Overhauling Hams and Shoulders When Curing, 73
Overhauling Meats, 73
Ozo Sky-Light Cleaner, 283
Ozo Toilet Cleaner, 284
Ozo Washing Powder, 282
Ozo Waste Pipe Opener, 285
P
Packing in Barrels or Tierces, 112
Packer Who Was Deceived, 207
Peppered Beef, How to Make, 247
Piccalilli, 156
Pickle Tester, Description, 276
Pickle-Soaked Meats, How to Smoke, 86
Pickled Meats, How to Keep for a Year, 90
Pickled Pigs’ Feet, 149
Pickled Pigs’ Feet, How to Store, 150
Pickled Pigs’ Tongues, 154
Pickled Spare Ribs, How to Cure, 98
Pickled Tripe, 150
Pickles, Dill, How to Make, 157
Picnic Ham, Description, 56
Picnic Ham, Directions for Curing, 56
Pig Pork, Description, 95
Pigs’ Feet, Fresh, How to Keep from Spoiling, 148
Pigs’ Feet, How to Pickle, 149
Pigs’ Feet, Pickled, How to Store, 150
Pigs’ Tongues, How to Pickle, 154
Plate Glass Cleaner, 272
Polish, Automobile, 291
Polish, Enamel, 290
Polish, Furniture, 292
Polish, Metal, 287, 288 and 289
Polish Style Sausage, How to Make, 145
Polish Style Sausage Casings, How to Color, 146
Polish, Silver, 287 and 289
Polishing Horns, 192
Pork, Barreled, How to Cure, 96
Pork, Bean, Description, 95
Pork, Belly, Description, 95
Pork, Butts, Description, 95
Pork Cheeks, Directions for Dry Salting, 120
Pork, Clear Back, Description, 95
Pork, Clear Brisket, Description, 95
Pork, Curing the Year Around, 33
Pork, Extra Short Clears, Description, 95
Pork, Hearts, How to Cure for Bologna, 121
Pork, How to Treat When Too Salty, 236
Pork, in Barrels, Temperature for Curing, 96
Pork, Lean Ends, Description, 95
Pork, Lean Family, Description, 95
Pork, Loins, Description, 95
Pork, Mess, Description, 95
Pork, Pig, Description, 95
Pork, Rib Brisket, Description, 95
Pork Sausage, 129
Pork Sausage, Great Importance of Using a Good Binder, 129
Pork Sausage, Smoked, 130
Pork Sausage, Preventing from Souring in Warm Weather, 205
Pork Sausage Seasoning, 262 and 263
Pork, Short Cut, Mess, Description, 95
Pork Trimmings, How to Cure, 111
Poultry, How to Dress, 158
Preparing Stock for Slaughter, 174
Pressed Corned Beef, 68
Pressed Ham, 108
Pressing Lard, 161
Pulling Leaf Lard in a Packing House, 40
Pumping Breakfast Bacon, 63
Pumping Corned Beef, 67
Pumping Hams, 76
Pumping Meats, Directions, 76
Pumping Meats, Hams, Bacon, etc., 75
Pumping Pickle, How to Make, 76
Pumping Shoulders, 77
Pure Food Colors, 273 and 274
Pure Food Laws, 30
Pure Food Laws, Complying with in Curing Meat, 237
Purifying Lard in a Common Rendering Kettle, 163
Purifying Tallow, 221
R
Rat Killer, Description, 297
Red Color in Bologna, How to Produce Without Artificial Color, 244
Refining Lard with Fuller’s Earth, 169
Refrigerator Pipe Drippings, 97
Rendering Lard, 160
Rendering Lard and Handling in an Agitator, 164
Rendering Lard and Settling It, 162
Rendering Lard, Using a Settling Tank and Agitator, 165
Rendering Lard Without a Settling Tank, 164
Rennets, How to Handle, 80
Rib Brisket Pork, Description, 95
Roach Powder, Description, 293
Rolled Boneless Butt Sausage, 107
Rolled Boneless Shoulder, How to Cure, 59
Rolled Spiced Corned Beef, 71
Ropy Brine, 228
Ropy Brine, What Causes It, 81
Ropy Brine, When Using Old Barrels, 199
Royal Metal Polish, Price List, 278
Rusty Meat, Cause of, 227
S
Salami Sausage, How to Make, 141
Salometers, Description, 276
Salt for Making Brine, 228
Salt Pork, How to Treat, 236
Salting Fat for Bologna, 116
Sanitary Fluid, 280
Sauer Kraut, 165
Sausage, Blood, 137
Sausage, Blood, Directions for Making, 138
Sausage, Bockwurst, How to Make, 147
Sausage, Bologna Formula, 114
Sausage, Braunsweiger, Liver, How to Make, 135
Sausage, Butts, 107
Sausage Casings, Bursting, How to Prevent, 125
Sausage Casing Color in Government Inspected Packing Houses, 117
Sausage Casing Colors, 269, 270 and 273
Sausage Casings, Shrinking, How to Prevent, 125
Sausage, Cervalet, How to Make, 140
Sausage Factory Plan, 221
Sausage Flavors, 262 and 263
Sausage, Frankfurts, How to Make, 118
Sausage, German Style, Ham, How to Make, 123
Sausage, Hamburger, Description, 127
Sausage, Hamburger, How to Make, 127
Sausage, Head Cheese, How to Make, 131
Sausage, Holstein Style, Directions for Making, 142
Sausage, How to Keep in Warm Weather, 148
Sausage, Liver, How to Make, 134
Sausage, Meat Coloring Artificially Is Illegal, 231
Sausage, Molding, How to Prevent, 239
Sausage, Polish Style, How to Make, 145
Sausage, Pork, How to Make, 129
Sausage, Salami, How to Make, 141
Sausage, Seasoning, 262 and 263
Sausage, Shrinking, How to Prevent, 125
Sausage, Summer, How to Make, 140
Sausage, Swedish Style, How to Make, 143
Sausage, Tongue, Blood, 137
Savory Jell-Jell, 265
Scalding Hogs in a Packing House, 36
Scalding Preparation, 278
Scraping Hogs in a Modern Packing House, 38
Seasoning for Sausage, 208
Seasoning Hamburger Steak, 126
Sewers, How to Open When Stopped Up, 286
Sharpening Knives and Plates of Meat Grinders, 240
Sheep and Cattle Dip, 298
Short Clear Backs, Description, 92
Short Clears, Description, 92
Short Fat Backs, Description, 92
Short Ribs, Description, 92
Short Ribs (hard), Description, 92
Shoulder Butts, How to Cure, 104
Shoulder Clots, How to Cure, 69
Shoulder, Boneless, How to Cure, 59
Shoulders, Butts, Description, 56
Shoulders, Directions for Curing, 56
Shoulders, How to Keep for a Year, 90
Shoulders, How to Wash Before Smoking, 90
Shoulders, New York, Description, 56
Shrinking of Sausage, How to Prevent, 125
Silver Polish, Description, 286 and 287
Silver Shine, 287
Skinning Cattle, 176
Skins, Directions for Tanning, 191
Skylight Cleaner, 283
Small Details to be Given Close Attention, 47
Smoke Color for Fish, 273
Smoke House, How to Construct, 204
Smoke House, Temporary, How to Build, 89
Smoked Pork Sausage, 130
Smoked Sausage Casings, How to Color, 117
Smoking Pickle Soaked Meat, 86
Soap, Making from Rendered Fat, 197
Soap, Making from Tallow, 219
Sour Hams, Causes of, 83
Sour Sausage, 194
Souse, 153
Spare Ribs, How to Cure, 98
Spiced Beef, How to Make, 195
Spiced Corned Beef, Rolled, 71
Spices, Use Only Pure, 88
Spices, Zanzibar Brand, Description, 262 and 263
Splitting Hogs in a Modern Packing House, 41
Starting a Butcher Business, 222
Sticking Hogs in a Modern Packing House, 34
Sticky Fly Paper, How to Make, 159
Storing Trimmings, Proper Temperature, 113
Stringy Brine, What Causes It, 81
Sugar, Kind to Use, 78
Summer Sausage, How to Make, 140
Swedish Style Metwurst Casings, How to Color, 144
Swedish Style Sausage, How to Make, 143
Sweet Breads, How to Keep from Spoiling, 148
Sweet Pickled Spare Ribs, 98
Switches, Salting, 190
T
Tallow Purifier, 277
Tallow Purifying, 221
Tallow, Rendered Soft and Flaky, Like Lard, 171
Tallow, Whitening and Purifying, 232
Tanaline, 279
Tanning Directions, 191
Tanning Powder, Description of, 279
Tanning Skins, 190
Temperature for Curing Meats, 46
Temperature for Storing Trimmings, 113
Temperature of Chill Room, 43
Temperature of the Brine, 47
Thermometer, Boiling, 275
Tierce Packing, 112
Tin Polish, 286
Toilet Cleaner, 284
Tongue Blood Sausage, 137
Tongues, Beef, Garlic Flavored, 100
Tongues, Beef, How to Cure, 99
Tongues, Hog, How to Cure, 101
Tongues, Pig, How to Pickle, 154
Tripe, Fresh, How to Keep from Spoiling, 148
Tripe, How to Pickle, 150
V
Vacuum Brand Garlic, Price List, 267 and 268
Varn-I-Glo, Price List, 292
Vats, 53
Ventilation in Hog Chill Rooms, 42
Vinegar, How to Test, 229
W
Washing Powder, Price List, 281 and 282
Washing Cured Meat Before Smoking, 90
Waste Pipe Opener, 285
Water, Separating from Lard, 230
Window Cleaner, 272
Wool, How to Remove, 246
Writing Fluid, 300
Z
Zanzibar Brand Sausage Seasonings, 262 and 263
Zanzibar Carbon, by Whom Manufactured, 208
Zanzibar Carbon Brand Casing Brown Mixture, 269
Zanzibar Carbon Brand Casing Yellow Mixture, 270
PREFACE
[Illustration: ADOLPH HELLER]
Adolph Heller, the father of the members of the firm of B. Heller &
Co., was a scientific and practical Butcher and Packer and a Practical
Sausage Manufacturer. He studied the causes of failure in the handling
of meats, with the aim of always producing the best and most uniform
products that could be made. He was so successful in his business that
his products were known and recognized as the best that could be made.
His sons were all given practical training in all departments of the
business, from the bottom rung of the ladder to the top. The problems
of the Packing Industry were kept constantly before them in their
school and college days and influenced them in the investigations and
study which developed into the present business of B. Heller & Co.
Under these circumstances, the Science of Chemistry naturally claimed
the sons of Adolph Heller. Naturally, too, the Chemistry of the Meat
Industry overshadowed all other branches of the fascinating profession.
With their habits of study and investigation, they soon discovered
that one of the great causes of failure in the curing and handling of
meat products was the lack of materials which were always uniform,
pure and dependable. This led to the founding of the firm of B. Heller
& Co., whose aim has always been to furnish to the Butchers, Packers
and Sausage Makers such materials as could be absolutely depended
upon for purity and uniformity. They also early found that even with
good materials to work with, the lack of fixed rules and formulas
contributed largely to the lack of uniformity in the finished goods.
This led to the publication of “Secrets of Meat Curing and Sausage
Making,” in which definite rules were given for handling all kinds of
meats and making all kinds of sausage.
The enactment of the National Pure Food Law, the National Meat
Inspection Law and the various State Pure Food Laws has made a great
change in the Butcher, Packing and Sausage Making Business. The use of
Chemical Preservatives is now prohibited under these various food laws,
making it necessary to preserve meats and manufacture sausage without
the use of many agents which were in general use.
The firm of B. Heller & Co. anticipated the enactment of the various
food laws, and already had completed investigations which enabled them
to assist packers, butchers and sausage makers at once by giving them
curing agents which were free from the Antiseptic Preservatives which
these laws prohibited, and yet would produce cured meats, sausage, etc,
of the highest quality without the use of the Antiseptic Agents. The
underlying principles for handling meats and making sausage with the
antiseptic agents and without them are very different, and it became
absolutely necessary that the firm of B. Heller & Co. should furnish
their friends and customers such information as would enable them to
cure their meats and make their sausage so as not to incur losses from
goods that would not keep, and to turn out goods of fine quality and
appearance. This book is =the= result. In its pages are formulas and
rules for the handling of all kinds of meat and the manufacture of all
kinds of sausage which are the results of many years of experience as
Packing House Experts and Chemists who have made a life-time study
of the business in all its phases. If the directions and rules are
followed, anyone can produce the finest of cured meats and sausage,
whether they have had previous experience or not. Furthermore, the
products made according to these directions will comply with the
requirements of all the Food Laws at present in force in this country.
Hoping the following pages will be found instructive and helpful and
thanking the Butcher Trade for their support and patronage in the past,
we beg to remain,
Very respectfully,
B. HELLER & CO.
[Illustration: BENJAMIN HELLER]
[Illustration: ALBERT HELLER]
[Illustration: JOE HELLER]
[Illustration: EDWARD HELLER]
[Illustration: HARRY HELLER]
PACKING-HOUSE EXPERTS
ANALYTICAL AND CONSULTING CHEMISTS
[Illustration]
We have been Consulting Chemists for the Large Packers for many years.
Our advice in the handling of meats has saved Packers many thousands of
dollars. We offer our advice free of charge to our customers. We make a
specialty of both Analytic and Synthetic Chemistry. Our large clientele
will always find us prompt in our services as heretofore.
Analyses Given Careful Attention.
General Syntheses
a Specialty
B. HELLER & CO.
[Illustration: PRIVATE OFFICE
_of_
BENJAMIN HELLER]
[Illustration: PRIVATE OFFICE
_of_
ALBERT HELLER]
[Illustration: VIEW IN GENERAL OFFICE]
[Illustration: VIEW IN GENERAL OFFICE]
[Illustration: MAKE YOUR SAUSAGE & CURE YOUR MEATS TO COMPLY WITH ALL
PURE FOOD LAWS]
The Board of Food and Drug Inspection of the Agricultural Department,
at Washington, has permitted the use of certain Curing Agents, by not
objecting to their use; but, at the same time, has ruled out, for
curing purposes, such chemicals as come under the heading of Antiseptic
Preservatives. As a consequence, certain chemical preservatives are
prohibited in meats and meat food products if they are to be sold in
the Territories or are to be shipped from one State to another, or from
any State or Territory into any other State or Territory.
For that reason, we have changed some of our former preparations and
have also placed on the market several preparations that will take
the place of some of our former products. These new products are
Freeze-Em-Pickle, “A” Condimentine and “B” Condimentine. They contain
nothing that has been ruled out by any of the rulings or regulations
under any of the Food Laws in this country.
The Antiseptic Preservatives that have been ruled out are: Borax,
Boracic Acid, Fluoride of Ammonia, Formaldehyde, Benzoic Acid,
Sulphurous Acid, Sulphite of Soda, Salicylic Acid, Abrastol and Beta
Naphthol.
The use of some of these Preservatives is considered by many high
authorities of the world to be harmless. However, as the majority of
the Food Commissioners of this country object to their use, and have
recommended to the State Legislatures and the Congress of the United
States that the use of these Preservatives be prohibited by law, and
the State Legislatures and United States Congress have passed laws to
this effect; these laws are now in effect and it is, therefore, the
duty of every citizen of this country to obey these laws, strictly and
to the letter.
In this book we are giving to the Butchers and Sausage Manufacturers
the results of much study and experiment, so as to enable the Butchers
and Sausage Makers and Packers to produce goods which will meet the
requirements of the various food laws and yet avoid the danger of loss
from turning out meat food products that might not keep the necessary
length of time. Our methods are original, and will produce most
excellent results.
It must be remembered that meat must be handled at the proper
temperature and according to certain rules, which must be followed to
the letter if the Butcher desires to turn out products of the best
quality and of appetizing appearance. No detail mentioned in this book
is too small to merit strict attention.
All the materials mentioned for use in these pages are in strict
accordance with the various food laws. Nothing is recommended or
suggested that would come in conflict with the application of the
regulations under the existing food laws.
We invite the correspondence of our customers and whenever they are in
any doubt it will afford us much satisfaction to hear from them and to
give them full information concerning any feature of their business
upon which they desire our advice.
[Illustration:
B. Heller & Co.]
[Illustration: BEGIN CURING OF MEAT IN THE PEN.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)]
Thousands of pounds of Hams, Shoulders and Sides are spoiled annually
before the hog is killed. Overheated hogs, or hogs that are excited
from overdriving, should never be killed until they are cooled off or
have become perfectly quiet. When the temperature of a hog is above
normal, the meat always becomes feverish. This is especially true of
large fat hogs, and when the meat becomes feverish, it will never cure
properly, but nine times out of ten will sour. The meat of feverish
hogs can never be chilled as it should be, and unless the meat is
properly chilled, it cannot be properly cured. Before hogs are killed,
they ought to be driven into a cool place and if necessary, sprayed
with cold water until they are thoroughly cooled off. This precaution
is necessary only in hot weather; in winter, they simply need plenty of
rest.
If it is necessary to hold the hogs for several days in the pen before
they are killed, they should have an abundance of water and also a
little feed. This prevents shrinkage and will also keep them from
getting nervous from hunger.
[Illustration: CURING PORK THE YEAR AROUND
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)]
Up to a comparatively few years ago, all Pork Packing was done in
the winter. Packing Houses would fill their plants during the winter
months, and in the spring would smoke out the meats. In this way,
most of the meat had to be sold oversalted, the shrinkage and loss to
the Packer was greater and meats, therefore, had to be sold at a much
higher price, besides, they were of very inferior quality.
At the present time, due to improved methods, packing can be done all
the year around, and meat can be sold as fast as it is finished. In
this way, cured meat can be produced at a much lower price, the money
invested in it can be turned over four, five or six times a year, and
the meat will be much better, taste better and more of it can be eaten
because of the fact that it is more wholesome and more easily digested.
HOISTING HOGS IN A LARGE PACKING HOUSE, WITH A HOG-HOISTING MACHINE.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
Great care should always be exercised when hogs are hoisted before
sticking. When hogs are hoisted alive to be stuck, very often when
a very heavy hog is jerked from the floor, the hip is dislocated or
sprained, and blood will be thrown out around the injured joint, so the
Ham will be spoiled. Great care should also be exercised in driving the
live hogs, as hogs are the heaviest and weakest and easiest injured of
all animals.
Special pens should be provided for them, so they are not crowded,
and so they have plenty of room when they are driven to the killing
pen. They should be handled very carefully, and piling up and crowding
should be avoided as much as possible. Many hams are injured by
overcrowding the hogs in the killing pens, for when hogs smell blood
they become excited and nervous, and unless they have plenty of room,
they will pile upon each other and bruise themselves so that there
will be many skin-bruised hams, and the flesh will be full of bruises.
Men driving hogs should never use a whip. The best thing to use in
driving hogs is a stick about two feet long, to the end of which is
fastened a piece of canvas three inches wide and two feet long. By
striking the hogs with this canvas, it makes a noise which will do more
towards driving them, without injury, than the whip which will injure
and discolor the skin.
[Illustration: MACHINE USED IN LARGER PACKING HOUSES FOR HOISTING HOGS.]
STICKING HOGS IN A MODERN PACKING HOUSE.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
Men sticking hogs should be sure to make a good, large opening in the
neck, three or four inches long, in order to give the blood a good,
free flow. It is very necessary to sever the veins and arteries in the
neck, so as to get all of the blood out of the hog. The man who does
the sticking must be careful not to stick the knife into the shoulder,
for if the shoulder is stuck, the blood settles there, and the bloody
part will have to be trimmed out after the hog is cut up. In large
Packing Houses, there is a report made out every day, of the number
of shoulder-stuck hogs, and the sticker must sign this report before
it is sent to the office. This shows the sticker the kind of work he
is doing and makes him more careful. In small houses, most butchers
stick the hogs on the floor and let them bleed there. Those who can
possibly do it should hoist the hog by the hind leg before it is stuck
or immediately after it is stuck, as the case may be, so as to allow
the hog to properly bleed. When the hog is properly hoisted by one hind
leg, alive, and then stuck while hanging, it will kick considerably
and the kicking and jerking of the hog will help in pumping out all of
the blood, making a much better bled carcass than if the hog is first
stunned with a hammer and stuck on the floor. The better the hog is
bled, the better the meat will be for curing.
[Illustration: HOW HOGS ARE STUCK IN A LARGE MODERN PACKING HOUSE.]
SCALDING HOGS.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
It is impossible to give the exact temperature one should use in
scalding hogs, as this will vary under different circumstances. In
winter the hair sticks much tighter than in summer and requires more
scalding and more heat than in summer. Hogs raised in the South, in a
warm climate, will scald much easier than those raised in a northern
climate. A butcher will soon learn which temperature is best adapted to
his own locality and the kind of hogs he is scalding.
[Illustration: SCALDING HOGS IN A LARGE MODERN PACKING HOUSE.]
In a Packing House where a long scalding tub is used, the temperature
depends entirely upon how fast the hogs are being killed. If the hogs
are killed slowly, so each hog can remain in the water longer, it is
not necessary to have the water as hot as when they are handled fast
and are taken out of the water in a shorter time. It is, however,
universally acknowledged that the quicker a hog can be taken out of
the scalding tub the better it is for the meat. The hog is a great
conductor of heat, and when kept in the scalding water too long, it
becomes considerably heated and bad results have many times been
traced to the fact that the hog was scalded in water which was not hot
enough, and was kept in this water too long in order to loosen the
hair. Overheating the hog in the scalding water very often causes the
meat of fat hogs to sour and Packers wonder why it is that the meat
has spoiled. We therefore wish to caution Packers against this, and to
advise the use of water as hot as practicable for scalding hogs.
To make the hair easy to remove and to remove dirt and impurities from
the skin, we recommend Hog-Scald. This preparation makes scalding easy,
it removes most of the dirt and filth, cleanses the hog and whitens the
skin.
[Illustration: B. HELLER & CO’S HOG-SCALD TRADE MARK]
In many localities, where the water is hard, Hog-Scald will be found of
great value, as it softens the water and makes it nice to work with;
it cleanses the skin of the hogs and improves their appearance. It is
a great labor saver and more than pays the cost by the labor it saves,
as it assists in removing the hair and leaves the skin more yielding to
the scraper.
The skin of all hogs is covered with more or less greasy filth, which
contains millions of disease germs and these extend down into the pores
of the skin. If this germ-laden filth is not removed, and if it gets
into the brine when the meat is being cured, it injures both the meat
and the brine in flavor, and also spoils the flavor of the lard if it
gets into that. Hog-Scald removes most of this filth and cleanses the
skin, and for these reasons alone, should be used by every Packer and
Butcher. Hams and Bacon from hogs that have been scalded with Hog-Scald
are, therefore, cleaner and will be much brighter after they are smoked
than when the filth of the hog remains in the pores of the skin.
Those selling dressed hogs will find Hog-Scald very valuable, as hogs
that have been scalded with it are cleaner and look whiter and much
more appetizing.
The use of Hog-Scald is legal everywhere. It does not come under the
regulations of the Food Laws, as it is simply a cleansing agent.
Hog-Scald costs very little at the price we sell it, and everyone can
afford to use it. Butchers who once try it will continue its use.
SCRAPING HOGS.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
[Illustration: SCRAPING HOGS IN A PACKING HOUSE.]
As much of the hair as possible should be scraped from the hogs,
instead of being shaved off with a sharp knife, as is often done. If
the hog is not properly scalded and scraped and the hair remains in the
skin, such hair is usually shaved off with a knife before the hog is
gutted, and sometimes after the meat is chilled and cut up. After the
meat is cured, the rind shrinks and all the stubs of hair that have
been shaved off will stick out and the rind will be rough like a man’s
face when he has not been shaved for a day or so. Hams and Bacon from
hogs that have been shaved instead of properly scalded and scraped,
will look much rougher and much more unsightly than if the hogs are
properly scalded and scraped. Therefore, Packers should give close
attention that the scalding and scraping is properly done. The scraping
bench should be provided with a hose right above where the hogs are
being scraped and this should be supplied with hot water, if possible,
so the hogs can be rinsed off occasionally with hot water, while being
scraped. The hot water can, however, be thrown over the hogs with a
bucket.
After the hog has been gambrelled and hung up, either on a
gambrel-stick or on rollers, it should be gutted. After it is gutted,
it should be washed out thoroughly, with plenty of cold, fresh water.
As every Packer understands how to gut a hog, it is not necessary to go
into details.
[Illustration: GUTTING HOGS IN A MODERN PACKING HOUSE.]
CUTTING THE HIND SHANK BONE.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
[Illustration: a]
[Illustration: b]
We advise the cutting of the hind shank bone after the hog is dressed,
so as to expose the marrow, as shown in cuts A and B. It is the best
thing to do, as it helps to chill the marrow. The chunk of meat that
is usually left on the hind foot, above and next to the knee, if cut
loose around the knee, will be drawn to the ham, and when chilled, will
remain on the ham instead of being on the hind foot, as shown in cut A.
After the meat is cut, the bone can be sawed, in the same place where
the hock would be cut from the ham later. See cut B. The hog will hang
on the sinews the same as if the bone had not been sawed, except that
the cut bone separates and exposes the marrow so it can be properly
cooled. On heavy hogs this is quite a gain, as the chunk that would
remain on the foot would be of little or no value there, but when left
on the ham, sells for the regular ham prices.
[Illustration]
FACING HAMS AND PULLING LEAF LARD IN A MODERN PACKING HOUSE.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
The first two figures in the above cut show two men Facing Hams. The
first man faces the Ham at his right hand side and the second man faces
the Ham on his left hand side, as the Hogs pass by.
The advantage of Facing Hams right after the hogs are dressed, is this.
The knife can be drawn through the skin and through the fat close to
the meat, and the fat will peel right off the fleshy part of the Ham.
Between the fat and lean meat of the Ham, between the legs, there is a
fibrous membrane which is very soft and pliable. When the knife is run
through the skin and fat, it will run along the side of this membrane,
making a clean face for the Ham. That part remaining on the Ham will
shrink to the Ham and will form a smooth coating over the lean meat,
which closes the pores and makes the Ham look smooth and nice when it
is smoked. It also makes a much smoother cut along the skin. The skin
when cut warm will dry nicely and look smooth when cured, whereas if it
is trimmed after the meat is chilled, it looks rough and ragged. Facing
Hams also allows the escape of the animal heat more readily. If Hams
are not faced until after the Hogs have been chilled, this fat must be
trimmed off and the Hams will not look nearly so smooth as they will if
this tissue and fat is removed while the hog is warm.
The second two men in the opposite illustration are Pulling Leaf Lard.
The Leaf Lard should always be pulled out of the hogs in summer, as it
gives the hogs, as well as the Leaf Lard, a better chance to chill.
During the winter months it can be pulled loose, but can be left
hanging loosely in the hog, from the top. In this way it will cool
nicely, and it will also allow the animal heat to get out of the hog.
Most of the large packing houses pull out the Leaf Lard in the winter
as well as summer, and hang it on hooks in the chill room to chill.
Leaf Lard that is properly chilled, with the animal heat all taken out
of it, makes much finer lard than when pulled out of the hog and put
into the rendering tank with the animal heat in it.
[Illustration]
SPLITTING HOGS IN A MODERN PACKING HOUSE.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
Splitting can be done in several different ways. Where the back of the
hog is to be cut up for pork loins, the hog is simply split through the
center of the backbone, so that one half of the backbone remains on
each loin. Packers who wish to cut the sides into Short or Long Clears
or Clear Bacon Backs run the knife down on both sides of the backbone,
as close to the backbone as possible, cutting through the skin, fat
and lean meat; then the hog should be split down on one side of the
backbone. The backbone should remain on the one side until the hog is
cut up and it can then easily be sawed off with a small saw. By cutting
or scoring the back in this way for making boneless side meat, the
sides will be smooth and there will not be much waste left on the bone
as when the backbone is split and half of it left on each side and then
is peeled out after the meat is chilled and is being cut up.
[Illustration: VENTILATION IN HOG CHILL ROOM.]
HOG CHILL ROOM IN A MODERN PACKING HOUSE.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
Many chill rooms are not properly built. There should be at least from
24 to 36 inches of space between the ceiling of the chilling room and
the gambrel-stick, or more if possible, in order to enable the shanks
to become thoroughly chilled. The animal heat which leaves the carcass
naturally rises to the top of the cooler, and unless there is space
between the ceiling and the top of the hog the heat will accumulate in
the top of the cooler where the temperature will become quite warm;
this will prevent the marrow in the shank and the joints from becoming
properly chilled. It is this fact that accounts for so much marrow and
shank sour in hams.
TEMPERATURE OF CHILL ROOM.
(_Copyrighted; Reprint Forbidden._)
All Packers who have a properly built cooler for chilling hogs and who
are property equipped with an ice machine will find the following rules
will give the best results. Those who are not properly equipped should
try to follow these rules as closely as they can with their equipment.
A hog chill room should be down to from 28 to 32 degrees Fahrenheit
when the hogs are run into it. As the cooler is filled, the temperature
will be raised to as high as 45 or 46 degrees F., but enough
refrigeration must be kept on so the temperature is brought down to 36
degrees by the end of 12 hours after the cooler is filled, and then the
temperature must be gradually reduced down as low as 32 degrees by the
time the carcasses have been in the cooler 48 hours. In other words, at
the end of 48 hours the cooler must be down to 32 degrees.
All large hog coolers should be partitioned off between each section of
timbers, into long alleys, so that each alley can be kept at its own
temperature.
In the improper chilling of the carcasses lies the greatest danger
of spoiling the meat. The greatest care must be given to the proper
chilling, for if the carcasses are not properly chilled, it will be
very difficult to cure the meat, and it will be liable to sour in the
curing. Meat from improperly chilled carcasses, even with the greatest
care afterwards, will not cure properly. Therefore, one of the first
places to look for trouble when Hams are turning out sour is to look to
the chilling of the meat, as it is nine chances out of ten that this
is where the trouble started from. We have found by experience that by
deviating only a few degrees from these set rules, the percentage of
sour meat is surprisingly increased.
It has always been considered an absolute necessity to have an open
air hanging room to allow the hogs to cool off in the open air before
they are run into the cooler. It has always been considered that this
saves considerable money in the refrigeration of the hogs. However,
by the experiments made in some of the large Packing Houses, it has
been demonstrated that this economy is very much over-estimated. There
are certain conditions which must be closely adhered to for the
safe handling and curing of pork products, and the most important of
these is the proper temperature. In the outside atmosphere the proper
temperature rarely prevails. Hogs that are left in the open air on the
hanging floor over night are generally either insufficiently chilled
or are over-chilled the next morning, depending upon the outside
temperature of the air. We feel that it is of advantage, however, to
run the hogs into an outside hanging room and to allow them to dry for
one or two hours before putting them into the chilling room.
Packers who cure large quantities of hogs must see to it that their
chill rooms are properly constructed and have sufficient refrigeration,
so the temperature can be kept under perfect control at all times.
The cooler should be partitioned off lengthwise, between each line of
posts, making long alleys to run the hogs into, each one of which can
be regulated as to its temperature separately from the others. The hogs
can be run into one of these alleys as fast as they are killed and
should the temperature get up above 50 degrees F., the hogs can be run
out of this into another. The cooler in which hogs are chilled should
never go above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and a properly constructed cooler
can be kept below this temperature.