RETURNING.

At Almorah I parted company with my foreign friends. They intended

crossing the mountains--the snowy range--to pay a visit to Kanawur.

This was a journey for which I had not much inclination; besides I was

doubtful whether I could breathe at an elevation of eighteen thousand

feet above the level of the sea. As it was, several of the coolies died

of cold and the rarity of the atmosphere. In fact, both of my friends

themselves had, as they informed me afterwards, a very narrow escape.

On several occasions they were compelled to huddle themselves amongst

the coolies in their tent, and the sheep which they were taking with

them for food were kept alive for the sake of the warmth they could

impart in the canvas abode. The grandeur of the scenery, they said,

would defy any attempt at describing it. What they most wondered at

was the impudence of that insect, man, in daring to climb up into such

regions.

My friend, the assistant magistrate, had still a fortnight of unexpired

leave, and proposed to me that we should pay a visit to a friend of

his at an out-of-the-way station, called Bijnore. I had not the least

objection, and thither we went. We were most hospitably received,

partly out of regard for ourselves in particular, but chiefly because

our host had not seen a white face for five weeks.

The cutcherry, or court-house, was undergoing repair, and the

magistrate, therefore, was obliged to administer the duties of his

office in his own abode, or rather in the verandah; for a large number

of half-clad natives in a hot country do not impart to a confined

space an agreeable perfume by any means. To me this scene--the native

court--was particularly interesting. There sat the covenanted official

in an arm-chair, with his solah hat on and a cheroot in his mouth,

listening very attentively to the sheristadar, or head clerk, who

was reading or singing aloud the entire proceedings in the case then

pending.

The prisoner, surrounded by half-a-dozen native policemen, all with

drawn swords, was standing ten paces off. Ever and anon he interrupted

the court by protesting his innocence, and assuring the Sahib that

the whole of the depositions were false from beginning to end. This

interruption was usually--I may say invariably--rebuked by the

words, "Choop raho, suer!" ("Hold your tongue, you pig!") And, not

unfrequently the nearest policeman accompanied this mandate by giving

the culprit a smart blow on the back or a "dig in the ribs." I have

seen prisoners well thrashed in our Indian courts of justice by order

of the presiding magistrate for talking out of their turn; but that was

not the case in the present instance. No more violence was resorted

to than was absolutely necessary for the maintenance of order and the

progress of the trial. The offence of which the prisoner stood charged

was that of forging a bond for five hundred rupees, and suing thereon

for principal and interest. The defence was, that the signature to

the bond was not a forgery, and that the money had been advanced to

the prosecutor; to prove which, no fewer than seven witnesses were

called. Each of them swore, point blank, that, upon a certain day and

at a certain place, they saw the prisoner pay over the money, and saw

the prosecutor execute the deed. To rebut this, the prosecutor called

eleven witnesses who swore, point blank, that, upon the day and at the

hour mentioned as the day and hour on which the deed was executed, they

met the prosecutor at a village forty miles distant from Bijnore. In

short, if their testimony was to be relied upon, the eleven witnesses

had proved an alibi.

This was one of those cases which happen continually in courts

of justice in India; where the magistrate or judge must not be,

and is not, guided by the oaths of the witnesses, but entirely by

circumstances. It is one of those cases, too, in which it would be

dangerous to consult the native officers of the court; for having

received bribes from both parties, their advice would be dictated

entirely by pecuniary considerations. With them the question would

be simply out of which party--the accused or the prosecutor--could

most money be got in the event of "guilty" or "not guilty." With

regard to the characters of the witnesses, they are pretty equal, and

generally very bad on both sides. Indeed, in nearly all these cases,

the witnesses are professionals; that is to say, men who are accustomed

to sell their oaths, and who thoroughly understand their business. They

know exactly what to say when they come into court, just as an actor,

who is letter perfect in his part, knows what to say when he comes on

the boards. In fact, a case is got up exactly as a play is. Each man

has his particular part and studies it separately; before the day of

trial comes they meet and rehearse, and go through "the business" till

they verily believe (such is my opinion) that they are not perjured,

but are speaking the truth. As for shaking the testimony of men so

trained to speak to a certain string of facts, I would defy the most

eminent nisi prius advocate in Europe. Besides, even if you should

reject one part of a statement, it does not follow, in a native court,

that you should reject the whole. The price paid to these professional

witnesses depends, in a great measure, on the nature and magnitude of

the cause. It is about twelve per cent. out of the sum in dispute.

I believe it is distributed amongst the witnesses, and the like sum

amongst the native officers of the court. This, of course, does not

include little extra presents given secretly to those who are supposed

to have the greatest amount of influence with the Sahib, and who

pretend that they will speak to him favourably. The personal servants,

also, of the European magistrate or judge expect some gratuity, and

hang about a client like the servants of badly regulated hotels where

attendance is not charged in the bill. It is this that makes litigation

so expensive in India that even the successful party is often ruined

before the suit is half concluded.

"Tiffin is ready, Sahib," said the khansamah, coming into the verandah,

and placing his hands together in a supplicating attitude. "It is on

the table, Sahib."

"Then we will adjourn," said the magistrate, bowing to me, and rising.

This was at once the signal for breaking up the day's proceedings.

The tiffin over, we began to play at whist, and continued to do so

until the sun had lost his power, when the buggies were ordered, and we

took a drive in couples along a very bad road. It fell to my lot to be

the companion of the magistrate, a very able and excellent man: one of

the most efficient officers in the East India Company's civil service.

He was, moreover, an admirable linguist, and spoke Hindostanee as well

as any native.

"You understood the proceedings to-day?" he asked me.

"I followed them; yes."

"And you heard the evidence?"

"Yes."

"What would you say? Is he guilty or not?"

"I cannot say, although I have thought a good deal on the point. Even

while we were playing whist, to-day's proceedings were uppermost in my

mind. Nothing can be clearer than that either one side or the other is

perjured."

"Both sides are perjured. If the bond be genuine, the men who really

witnessed the execution and who subscribed their names as witnesses

will not come forward, or else they are such fools that the native

lawyer for the defence will not trust to them lest they should be

confused and commit themselves."

"But what do you think? Is the bond a genuine document or not?"

"That is the very question. And when there is no evidence to weigh, how

are you to act?"

"I suppose that in those cases you give the prisoner the benefit of the

doubt?" I remarked.

"Not always. If I did that, I should acquit almost every culprit that

is brought before me, and so would every judge throughout the length

and breadth of the land. By the way, about a year ago, I sent a case to

the sessions judge--a case of murder. I fancied there could be no doubt

as to the guilt of the accused; which was the opinion of the sessions

judge and of the Sudder Court of Appeal. The man was hanged about six

weeks ago; and now I have discovered, beyond all question, that he was

hanged for the offence of which his prosecutor was guilty! It may be

all very well for people in England to rail at the administration of

justice in this country; but they would be less severe upon some of us

if they could only come out here and see the material with which we

have to deal. The administration of justice may be, I confess, very

much reformed and improved, but where the great bulk of the people

are corrupt, it can scarcely be in anything like a perfect state."

This statement, remember, was made, by a magistrate who speaks as

well as writes the native language as well as the natives themselves.

But conceive the confusion and injustice in those courts, where the

magistrates solely depend on corrupt moonshees for what they know of

the evidence.

There is but very little twilight in India; and by the time that we had

returned from the drive it was dark. Shortly afterwards, dinner was

announced. Dinner over, we resumed our whist, and played until midnight.

The following day was a native holiday--a Hindoo holiday. What with

Hindoo holidays and Mahommedan holidays, nearly a third of every year

is wasted: for, upon these days public business is suspended and the

various offices closed. It is devoutly to be hoped that, when our rule

in India is completely re-established, these absurd concessions--these

mere pretexts for idleness--will no longer be suffered to prevail.

It is only the pampered native servants of the Government, civil and

military, who are clamorous for the observance of these "great days,"

as they call them. Go into the fields or ride through a bazaar on

one of these holidays and you will see the people at their work, and

the shopkeepers pursuing their respective avocations. You pass the

court-house, the treasury, the magistrate's office, and observe that

they are all shut up. You ask the reason, and are informed that it is

a native holiday. You go to an establishment founded and conducted by

private enterprise--a printing-office, for instance--and you observe

Hindoos of every caste, and Mussulmans also, at their daily labour.

Why? Because the head of such an establishment stipulates that those

who wish for employ must work all the year round, and they prefer

employ on such terms to no employ at all. So it is in some mercantile

firms in Calcutta, and at the other Presidencies; albeit such firms

experience very great inconvenience from the circumstance of the

Government banks being closed on these holidays; if a merchant wishes

to get a cheque cashed, or a bill discounted, he must wait sometimes

for days together. Even the doors of the Queen's courts are often

closed, and the judges and the counsel left unemployed, notwithstanding

that the litigants are British subjects; and this because the native

writers in these courts and the officers attached to them, are paid by

the Company's Government, which recognises absence from duty on these

holidays.

It would be hard to deprive either of the great sects of certain

holidays in every year. The Doorgah-Poojah, for instance, or the

Mohurrum; but it is sheer folly, and profitless withal, to sanction

these constantly repeated interruptions to public business. The idlers

of the covenanted civil service in India are, naturally, in favour of

closing the doors of the various offices as often as possible; but the

hard-working portion, those men who take some interest in the discharge

of the duties for which they draw their pay, regard the native holidays

as an intolerable nuisance which ought, long since, to have been

abolished.

Whilst we were enjoying ourselves after dinner, on the evening of the

Hindoo holiday, the khansamah came in, and announced that two Sahibs

had arrived.

"Two Sahibs?" said our host. "Who are they?"

"They are strangers to me, Sahib," said the khansamah, "and they do not

speak Hindostanee; but their bearers say that they are Lord Sahibs."

"Who on earth can they be?" said the magistrate of Bijnore (loudly) to

himself; and, rising, he left the table to make inquiry in person, and

offer the travellers every hospitality.

"O, I beg your pardon," said a voice from one of the palanquins. "But

would you be good enough to tell me where I am?"

"You are at Bijnore," said the magistrate, blandly.

"Bij-what?"

"Bijnore."

"Then, how far am I from Meerut?"

"A very considerable distance--forty miles at least."

"How the deuce is that?"

"Well, sir--in the words of the Eton Latin Grammar--I may reply:--

Felix qui potuit rerum cognoscere causas.

Wanderings in India, and Other Sketches of Life in Hindostan · 第 39 / 50 题