CHAPTER VII

MORE POPE THAN YOU

Purity and simplicity having been always potent factors in the

development of the spiritual life, it followed, as the night the day,

that Cluny's ever-growing indulgencies and luxury, while they sapped

her own strength, laid her open to supercession by the devotees of an

uncorrupted order. By the time of Pierre le Vénérable, that rival had

already arisen. The Cistercian Order, under the rule of St. Bernard, at

Clairvaux, had already supplanted Cluny as the first religious power

of Europe. The story of the rise of Citeaux is full of legendary and

historical interest.

About the middle of the eleventh century, Eringarde, the wife of

Theodoric, a nobleman of Normandy, was about to become a mother. On

the eve of the expected birth, the Holy Virgin appeared to the lady,

and showed to her a golden ring, saying: "With this ring I betrothe

to myself the son whom you shall bring into the world." The child was

baptized under the name of Robert. When he was grown up, and had heard

the story of his mother's vision, he left his native home, and betook

himself to Burgundy, there to consecrate a monastery to the cult of

God and St. Mary. The spot he chose for the foundation, in the year

1075, was in the forest of Molême, beyond Châtillon. There a company

of fellow anchorites built, of the branches of trees, a chapel in

honour of the Virgin, and there, in that solitude, they led a life so

austere, so laborious, so fervent, that the monks of Molême came to be

known rather as angels than men.

But, before many years had passed, abundance and prosperity had brought

about a general lassitude, and departure from the austerity of the

early rule. Robert's disciples mutinied against their Abbot, who then

knew that the time for departure was come. Early in the year 1098,

a little band of Benedictine monks, twenty-one in number, including

Robert, the prior, and sub-prior, might have been seen issuing from

the abbey gateway of Molême. They took with them no other provision

for their travels than the vestments and sacred vessels for the

celebration of the most holy mysteries, and a large breviary for the

due performance of the divine office. Through wild and rugged paths, by

mountain and forest, they journeyed on, chanting the divine praises,

until, in the midst of the great plain of Burgundy, they came upon a

vast solitude, the haunt of wild beasts, which, among the forest trees,

found shelter in the underwood and brambles. Here, as they wended their

way along the banks of a stream, beside reed-fringed, stagnant pools,

where only the discordant cry of the water-fowl broke the awful silence

of nature, the travellers heard a voice from Heaven, crying "Sistite

hic!" (halt here), and knew that this forest was the spot in which God

willed that they should serve Him.

Obtaining grant of the land, and aid, from Eudes, Duke of Burgundy, and

the Vicomte de Beaune, whose it was, they raised their monastery, which

was solemnly dedicated, on the 21st March, 1098, to the Virgin Mary,

and named Citeaux, in memory of the divine command they had heard.[98]

St. Robert stayed only for one year in Citeaux, before an order of

the sovereign pontiff recalled him to Molême; but the new monastery

continued to flourish under the guidance of Stephen Harding, a young

English monk.

About this time it pleased the Virgin to show conspicuously to the

brethren her good pleasure in the life they were leading in her honour.

One day, when they were chanting matins, Mary, Queen of Heaven and

Earth, resplendent in glory, appeared to them with the first rays of

the dawn, and, in a moment, with a touch of her hand, changed the tawny

robes of the Cistercians into garments of spotless purity. The vision

vanished; but cowl and tunic retained the dazzling brilliancy of snow.

Then the pious cenobites understood that they must adopt,

henceforth, the white dress, as symbol of her--that flawless

lily-of-the-valley--whose servants they were, and towards whose

unspotted purity they were ever to strive.[99]

In after years, when the black monks reproached the Cistercians with

wearing a garment fit only for a time of joy, whilst the monastic state

was one of penitence, the white monks would answer, that the religious

life was not only one of penitence, but was like that of the angels,

and therefore they wore white garments to show the spiritual joy of

their hearts.[100] The Cistercian habit bore about it another touch of

grace, derived from long and holy association. In the black scapular,

worn over the white tunic, broad about the shoulders, then falling in

a narrow strip to the feet, they saw the form of the Lord's cross, and

thus they loved to bear it about with them, even in their sleep.[101]

And notwithstanding their coarser bread, hard beds, and clothing no

better than that of the peasantry, there was ever a cheerfulness about

the Cistercians that comes always to him whose heart beats in sympathy

with the warm heart of mother nature, whose work lay where their days

were passed, not in towns, but in sequestered valleys and lonely

uplands, among fruitful vineyard, meadow, and cornfield.

After a while, upon Citeaux, too, in its turn, came evil days, when

one by one the monks fell away and died, until Stephen began to doubt

whether the austerities of his rule were not above human strength, and

to fear that God had willed the destruction of the new community. One

day, when he, with his brothers, was seated at the bed-side of a dying

priest, he told the sufferer of his fear, and ordered him, in Christ's

Name, to return from among the dead, and reveal to him God's Will

concerning the future of the Abbey.

The monk promised to do so, in so far as might be permitted him. Then

he died.

Some days after the passing of that brother, Stephen, at work in the

fields, gave the signal for rest. Withdrawing himself from the others,

he knelt down to pray, when the dead monk, ashine with heavenly light,

and seeming rather to float above the ground than to be standing upon

it, appeared to him.

"Father," said he, "The Lord Christ has sent me to tell you that

your way of life is good in His sight, and that the desolation and

sterility of Citeaux are about to pass away. Soon your children will be

saying to you, 'Make room for us; the abode is too narrow; enlarge its

boundaries.' Multitudes of men will come to range themselves beneath

your crook, and among them shall be many learned ones, and many a lord.

Your disciples, in number as bees when they swarm, shall go hence to

found new abbeys in far off lands."

Not long after this vision, one evening, in the year 1113, whilst

Stephen and the remnant of his little flock were imploring God to

fulfil His promises, a band of thirty persons, under the guidance of a

young man, was slowly traversing the forest towards the abbey. Soon the

sound of the iron knocker, clanging upon the gate, summoned the porter,

whose bell announced the arrival of strangers. The new-comers entered,

prostrated themselves at the feet of Stephen, and begged to be admitted

into the number of his monks. They were a notable company; young lords,

noble in feature and deportment, from among the greatest houses in

Burgundy; older men who had shone in the councils of princes, and had

worn, hitherto, only the furred mantle, or the steel hauberk, now to be

exchanged for the lowly cowl of St. Benedict.

"At the head of the troops was a young man of about twenty-three years

of age, of exceeding beauty. He was rather tall of stature, his neck

long and delicate, his whole frame very thin like that of a man in

weak health. His hair was of a light colour, and his complexion fair;

but with all its pallor, there was a virgin bloom spread over the thin

skin of his cheek; an angelic purity and a dove-like simplicity shone

forth from his eye, which showed at once the serene chastity of his

soul."[102] Such, in aspect, was Bernard, the young saint, who, before

many years had passed, was to be the dominant force in the policies of

western Europe.

Bernard's origin was not less worthy than that of his companions.

His father, Tescelin le Roux (the Red), could trace back his descent

through the chevaliers of old, to immemorial times. Born at Châtillon

on Seine, he belonged to the seigneurial family of that town, though he

resided much at his castle of Fontaines-les-Dijon, where Bernard was

born, only a short distance from the Burgundian capital. Tescelin's

wife, Alethea, was descended in direct line from the Counts of

Montbard, and through them was connected with the Dukes of Burgundy,

in whose court, as counsellor of Eudes I. and Hugues II., Tescelin was

high in favour. He was a man of honour, strong and firm of character;

she, a girl of fifteen at the time of her marriage, was of gentle

disposition, sorrowing often because God had seen fit to thwart her

leanings towards the cloister life. As the mother of Bernard, third

of her seven children, a yet nobler destiny was reserved for her.

Shortly before the birth of this third child, there came to Alethea a

mysterious dream, in which she seemed to see, imprisoned within her

own body, a little red and white dog, who barked without ceasing.

Astonished and troubled by this vision, she consulted a priest, as to

what it might mean. His interpretation filled her heart with joy.

"Fear not," said he, "You are to become the mother of a marvellous

child. Like unto a faithful dog he will keep guard over the House of

the Lord, and shall make his cry heard against the enemies of the

faith. He shall surpass all other preachers, and his word, full of

light and authority, shall be the saving of many."[103]

The young child in every way fulfilled the heavenly promise; yet,

for many a year, he was torn mentally between the calls of the world

and of the cloister; both in his early training at the schools of

Châtillon-sur-Seine, and later, when in spiritual solitude, at the

château of Fontaines, he looked down upon the dead body of his

mother. The world would not yield, without a struggle, so promising

a recruit as Bernard, whose father, never dreaming that the gates of

the monastery were soon to close upon him too, was not alone in his

endeavours to keep his son from the religious life.

Bernard, however, was proof against all persuasion; nor was it long

before his fast-developing strength of character and conviction caused

him, in his turn, to become the aggressor. One by one the brothers were

won over, until, at last, all, save Gérard, were upon Bernard's side.

Resolute, he still turned with indignation from all the young saint's

proposals. Bernard laid his hand upon his brother's side:

"I see," said he, "that misfortune alone can enlighten thee. A day is

coming, and it is not far off, when a lance shall pierce this body, and

open, towards the heart, an easy passage to the thought of salvation."

And so it came about; for some days later, at the siege of the castle

of Grancy, Gérard fell, struck by a lance; and, covered with blood, was

carried into the fortress prison. Then he recalled Bernard's saying,

saw his destiny clearly, and accepted the religious life.

Bernard's brothers were among the company who had knocked that day at

the gate of Citeaux. The new-comers remained for a week in the guest

house of the monastery. On the eighth day they were taken into the

chapter house, where the Abbot and his monks were assembled. As they

knelt before him, the Abbot put to each of them the question prescribed

by the rule:

"What seek you?" to which they replied in turn:

"My Father, God's Mercy, and yours." Then were read to them the

stricter points of the Cistercian rule, and the Abbot dismissed them

saying,

"My sons; may God fulfil in you that which His Grace has begun."[104]

From the commencement of his novitiate, Bernard practised austerities

that were severe--even for a Cistercian. He would kneel until, on

rising, his swollen limbs refused, almost, to support him, and, while

always ready with a helping hand to lighten the toil of other monks

in the forest or the marsh, he prepared himself for his labours with

nourishment so poor that his body wasted and fever consumed him,

until his life was despaired of. Devoting all his mind to the inward

and spiritual, to answering well the question he was always asking

himself, "Bernarde ad quid venisti?" (Bernard, wherefore art thou

here?), he seems to have been almost unobservant of outward things. The

old chronicler relates how, one day, being thirsty, the saint drank,

without noticing its taste, (nihil sapiebat gustandi) a jar of oil

whose contents he had mistaken for water. On another occasion, when

asked whether the ceiling of his cell was flat or vaulted, he was quite

unable to answer.

The immediate result of the coming of such a man, with such companions,

was an enormous increase in the numbers and power of that order.

Postulates flocked in hundreds to the Abbey of Citeaux, and, by the

year 1113, it had become necessary to establish daughter abbeys. The

first was La Ferté (Firmitas), so called to signify the strength and

consistency that the Almighty had already bestowed upon the rising

order. Then followed Pontigny, where Bernard's friend, Hugues de Mâcon,

was sent as abbot; then, in 1115, Morimond, and Clairvaux (Claire

Vallée)--once the robber-haunted Valley of Wormwood. Before long, the

order had the choice of the fairest fields of France; indeed, of all

Europe.

But Clairvaux had no abbot; and Citeaux must supply one. The choice

fell upon St. Bernard, twenty-five years of age, hardly out of his

novitiate, scarce able to support the exercise of his rule, and little

fitted, as it seemed, to undertake a voyage of discovery to the

loneliest forest in all the diocese of Langres. Yet he must go.

The form in which such an expedition set out was characteristic, and

impressive in its simplicity. The monks, having been assembled by sound

of the bell, all the community went down upon their knees. After a long

silence, the Abbot intoned a psalm; then, taking a cross of wood from

the altar, he handed it, as the token of office, to the new Abbot. The

latter received it in silence, kissed it, still without speaking, and

left his stall, followed by twelve other monks, symbols of the Christ

and apostles. All the brothers then ranged themselves in the cloister,

while, with heads bowed, the thirteen passed between them. Silently

the gates of the monastery swung open, revealing to all a glimpse of

the dangerous world beyond. The pilgrims filed out; and the clang of

closing gates announced the termination of the ceremony.

We have not space to follow further the career of the "Last of the

Fathers," as he was called, or to trace in detail the growth of an

influence so extraordinary, that about the year 1148, we find Pierre

le Vénérable, Abbot of Cluny, writing of "Bernard of Clairvaux, the

splendid and immovable column that sustains not the monastic order

only, but the entire church," while Bernard himself, broken down by the

weight of affairs pressing upon him, writes to Eugène III: "People are

pretending everywhere that you are not pope, but I; and all who have

business, flock to me for help," (Aiunt non vos esse papam, sed me).

Geoffrey, Bernard's secretary and successor, writing two years after

his master's death, said: "Whoso has met Bernard has seen Christ. For

in him the whole Christ dwelt."[105]

Without, indeed, going so far in praise as did his secretary, we may

agree that Bernard's character comprised most of those elemental

virtues, that, blended, make the perfect man. In him, calmness and

vehemence, tenderness and serenity, tenacity and flexibility, vivid

imagination and unswerving rectitude, were all present; ever ready

to meet the necessities of any occasion that might arise. With all

these varied gifts he never flattered, never betrayed the truth, never

dissembled the sacred ardour that burned within him. Everywhere he

was listened to with profound respect; his stern voice was heard in

the cottages of the poor, and in the palaces of kings. Neither his

enthusiasm, nor his ceaseless activities, caused him to lose lucidity

nor precision of argument in debate. His repartee was gentle and

penetrating; swift to disentangle truth from error, without practising

the subtleties of the schools. He was that rarest of phenomena, a

practical idealist, an enlightened fanatic. And with all these varied

faculties, high above men of his time though his intellect was, he

remained ever a true son of the Church, nor sought to free himself

from the yoke of Catholic authority. Therein lay the secret of his

subsequent bitter antagonism to the teachings of Abélard.

A few words as to Cistercian ideals, and especially as to Cistercian

rule, as compared with that of Cluny, may not be out of place here.

For the sites of all their monasteries, they chose invariably lonely

and wild lands, marshy valleys, swamps, or lake, or forest, where

the monks would be under no temptation from the vicinity of worldly

attractions, nor from too close contact with the secular clergy, whose

influence was sometimes harmful. The Cistercian's first duty was the

first duty of man--to reclaim the dark places of the earth from watery

desolation to culture and fertility; just as, later on, the first duty

of preaching friars was to win back the souls of men, from the power of

Satan unto God. Faurtride, third abbot of Clairvaux, quotes St. Bernard

as giving another reason. "It is not sufficient for a monk to allege

illness (as an excuse for shirking the austerities of the rule).

The holy fathers, our predecessors, sought deep damp valleys for their

monasteries, so that the monks might be often ailing, and having death

always before their eyes, should never live in security."[106]

It may be well imagined, that an order founding its houses upon such

sites, and for such a reason, did not err upon the side of indulgence.

The rule was more strict, even, than that followed by Cluny in early

days, both as regards abstinence from food and the rigid enforcement of

silence. Vegetables were not to be served with fat or butter; meat was

absolutely forbidden, unless sometimes to the sick; and fish, except

herrings during Advent and Lent, was allowed only on rare occasions.

When Pope Innocent II. visited Clairvaux in 1131, the monks had a hard

task to find a single herring for his table. In the matter of clothing,

too, they were much more simple than the Clunisians, and closer to the

Benedictine rule; for instance, the gloves, boots, and furred pelisses,

permitted in the older abbey during the winter, were forbidden to monks

of the rival order.

The whole secret of Citeaux's influence may be summed up in two

words--simplicity and self-sacrifice. These principles extended right

through the life of the order, even to its architecture and to its art.

Already, at the time of the coming of St. Bernard, the Clunisians were

beginning to lighten with sculpture the splendid severity of their

Romanesque buildings, to deck their statues with precious stones, and

with beautiful glass; to adorn with gilding and voluptuous colour the

gray stones of aisle and nave.

[Illustration: ST. JOHN. BURGUNDIAN SCHOOL]

St. Bernard, quick to see the danger, sent his masons back to the

essential. Nave and choir were to be of low elevation, and without

towers; within must be neither painting, nor sculpture, nor crucifix,

nor colour, nor any other ornament. Even the tympanum of the porch,

so richly carved in Clunisian churches, might show only a cross in

bas-relief, sometimes surmounted by the Lamb of God. Any sculpture in

the interior must be confined to simple flowers and foliage on the

capitals, with perhaps a claw at the base of the pillars; the apse and

chapels were to be square, not polygonal nor semi-circular, as in the

work of the other school. Above all, the Cistercians banished from

their churches the scenes from the Ancient and New Testaments, the

symbolical figures and fantastic animals, of which the Clunisians were

so fond. Their cloisters were low and heavy, and the windows of the

monastic buildings were narrow, almost, as loopholes.

In ceremonial observances they were equally simple, and contented

themselves with a monotonous psalmody, poor and thin compared with the

melodious chants that rang down the aisles of Cluny. The manuscripts

showed the same scorn of art. Cluny bound their parchments beautifully

in gold and silver, and ornamented them with precious stones; Citeaux

was content with a rough binding of pig-skin, decorated with nails, and

fastened with copper bands.

It was inevitable that such vital difference of opinion should find

contemporary expression in words, as well as deeds. Bernard protests

vehemently against luxe. His correspondence on the subject with his

friend, Pierre le Vénérable, is full of interest.

"I do not speak," he writes, "of the prodigious height of the churches,

of their immeasurable length, of their unnecessary width, of their

sumptuous ornaments, of their curious paintings, which draw the glances

of those who are at prayer, and prevent them from praying. As a monk,

I address myself to monks, and I say to them: You who should be poor,

what do you with this gold in the sanctuary? Other than this should

be the conduct of the bishops, other than this that of the monks. The

bishops, as we know, extend their solicitude to the foolish as well as

to the wise. That they should seek to arouse by exterior ornament the

devotion of a carnal people insensible to the ornaments of the soul,

we can well understand; but we who have come forth from the bosom of

this people, who, for the love of Christ, have left the world and all

which is precious and apparent, we who regard as dung all that shines

by beauty, all that flatters the ear by harmony, that pleases the

senses of smell and touch, in a word, all that can give rise to sensual

pleasure, whose devotion do we aspire to arouse by these ornaments?

"And to speak my thought openly, is it not avarice, that idolatry of

slaves, which inspires us, and do we not seek rather the gifts of

matter than the fruits of the spirit? How so, will you reply? I will

tell you. Gold is lavished on every hand that it may multiply; it is

spread abroad that it may be augmented. At the sight of these sumptuous

vanities which excite astonishment, men feel themselves inflamed with

the will to give, rather than with the will to pray. I do not know what

this penchant may be, that bids us give more willingly to him that

already has much. Eyes are dazzled by reliquaries covered with gold,

and the sight of them opens every purse. The more the chasse shines in

beauty, the more sacred are the relics held to be. We hasten to kiss

them, and we feel ourselves drawn on into giving; we admire that which

strikes the eye, rather than venerate holy things. In the churches are

exposed, not crowns, but wheels encrusted with pearls, and the lamps

which surround them cast a light less bright than the precious stones.

For candalabra, we see rise a tier of enormous weight, fashioned with a

marvellous art, which glitters less by the candles which surmount it,

than by the diamonds with which it is adorned.

"What seek ye in all that, I ask you; is it the compunction of

penitence or the astonishment of the eye? O Vanity of Vanities, O

Folly! In her buildings, the church is ashine, in her poor she is

all impoverished. She clothes her stones with gold, she leaves her

children naked. 'Tis at the expense of the poor that we seek to flatter

the eye of the rich. The curious find wherewithal to charm them;

the unfortunate seek in vain their daily bread. Do we not abuse our

veneration of the images of the saints, until they are ready to rise

from the paving-stones? Here one is spitting in an angel's mouth; there

the passers-by tread upon the face of a saint. If you do not respect

these holy images, why do you not respect at least their brilliant

colouring? Of what use is it to decorate these figures if they are to

be continually soiled with dust? Of what use are they to the poor, to

the monks, to spiritual men?

"What is the meaning in the cloisters, before the brother occupied in

reading, of those ridiculous monsters, those deformed beauties, those

beautiful deformities? What do they there, those unclean apes, those

fierce lions, those monstrous centaurs, those figures half man, half

beast, those striped tigers, those fighting soldiers, those huntsmen

who sound the horn? On one side, I see many heads on a single body;

on the other, many bodies with a single head; here a beast with a

serpent's tail; there a fish with an animal's head. Half a horse ends

in half a goat; a horned animal bears a horse's croup. Everywhere

appears a multitude of varied and uncouth forms. More pleasure is taken

in reading on marble than in books; we choose rather to pass the whole

day in looking upon these pictures than in meditating upon the Divine

Law. Great God, though we blush not at such follies, let us blush, at

least, at the sums they cost!"[107]

However worthy such ideals might be from the spiritual point of

view--and no one, surely, can read Bernard's letter without feeling

its power and sincerity--it is obvious that, like those of the later

Puritanism, they bore within them the germs of their own destruction.

No community of man, even in those glorious days of the early middle

ages, could live, for long, up to that standard; and as the order

established itself all over Europe, almost, the diffusion of its

forces resulted necessarily in a swift falling away, and loss of

prestige. That change, though, perhaps, a disaster for the Christian

church, was the salvation of Western Europe; for, had the ideals of

Citeaux finally prevailed over those of Cluny, the glorious Gothic

arts of the next three centuries, upon which Cluny certainly exercised

great influence--of which, indeed, she was the mother--would not have

attained the same development.

* * * * *

Among the distinguished visitors to Citeaux, were Louis le Gros, in

1127; Pope Eugène III., who presided over the chapter general, in 1148;

Louis VII., in 1166; and Louis IX. (St. Louis), who came here from

Vézelay, in 1244.

On that occasion, according to custom, the Duke of Burgundy, Hugues

IV., preceded the royal cortège up to the limit of his lands. As they

approached Citeaux, coming in sight of the church, all left their

horses, and advanced on foot in the attitude of prayer. The prelates,

the abbots who were there, and the monks, to the number of five

hundred, came forth in procession to welcome the monarch visiting them

for the first time. Louis IX. and Queen Blanche did not lodge in the

abbey, but in the Hotel du Duc de Bourgogne, without the walls. They

were specially authorized to eat meat during their stay, on condition

that such permission would not be granted on a future occasion.[108]

Upon the fair fame of the later history of the order there rests one

indelible stain. Citeaux was largely responsible for that series of

awful crimes and massacres known as the Albigensian crusade. Early

in the thirteenth century, Innocent III., weary of vain attempts by

spiritual force to crush out heresy from the church, decided to employ

the not unwilling Cistercians to preach a new crusade. A great army

of "Crusaders," under the command of Eudes III., Duke of Burgundy,

crossed the Rhône at Avignon, and passing through Montpellier, came to

Béziers, where they proceeded to indulge in "the greatest massacre ever

committed in all the world; for they spared neither young nor old, nor

even infants at the breast." It seems a cruel irony that from Arnaud,

Abbot of Citeaux, a successor of St. Robert and St. Bernard, should

have come the answer to the question how they were to deal with the

heretics: "Kill them all; God will know His Own!"

* * * * *

But happier recollections than those were in my mind when last I rode

to Citeaux from Dijon, on a dull and rainy morning of October, a

fitting day on which to visit that savage and lonely site. There are

people--cultured people, even, such as Emile Montégut--who will tell

you that, because the country here is flat, and the old monastery

almost entirely destroyed, Citeaux is not worthy of a visit. I find

it hard to understand how anyone possessing a spark of historic

imagination, can thus deprive himself of the pleasure of seeing the

abbey; though there were certainly less inducement to go there when

the place was a penitentiary school, than now, when it is again in

the occupation of the white monks. I hope that this account of my own

pilgrimage there will induce others to follow my example.

I rode to Citeaux by way of Rouvres, a lonely village on the plain

south of Dijon. It has, or had, a château--not now visible within its

belt of trees--that has some interesting historical associations, and

there is a Romanesque church accessible, I remember, by a somewhat

unique bridge, consisting of gravestones, evidently taken from the

churchyard, laid, with the inscriptions uppermost, across the stream

where the ducks paddle.

Passing through many a tangled and dilapidated Burgundian village, I

came at last, after miles of plodding across the plain, to a spot so

savage of aspect, that it might well be a halting-place, even to-day,

for an ascetic brotherhood faring forth in search of a site for a

new foundation. On the left of the lonely road was a stagnant marsh,

bordered with clumps of yellow reeds and brown bullrushes. Before me,

a great expanse of sullen water, fringed with a line of distant, black

fir trees, reflected on its broken surface the drifting, gray clouds.

A dismal lake it was, marged with red and green rushes, dappled with

broad-leaved water plants, and spotted with splashing drops. No human

note broke the silence; no sound but the harsh cry of wild fowl,

the croaking of frogs, the monotonous swish of falling rain. At my

feet were growing thistles and deadly night-shade; through the reeds

I caught a glimpse of a pink sow snouting in the mud. A feeling of

intense exaltation arose within me--the delight born of unity with

Nature in her elemental mood. I knew now why the Cistercians loved

these spots. There welled up in me the same sensation of burning

pleasure that lightened the life of the ascetic of eight hundred years

ago, when, leaning upon the handle of his spade, as he paused for a

moment from his labour, he watched the wind furrowing the rippled

water, and heard the holy spirits of the air singing to the bending

rushes on the bank.

I rode on, past the gateway of the Abbey grounds, to the village

of Citeaux, where I lunched with an asceticism that, though not

inappropriate to the occasion, was due, I must confess, rather to

the limitations of the innkeeper's resources, than to a voluntary

compliance with the rule of St. Benedict. During the repast, Madame,

standing before me, and punctuating her remarks with an occasional

sweep of the back of her hand across her mouth, held forth upon the

history of the Abbey. Learning from her that the buildings could be

visited, I determined to see what was to be seen. Cycling boldly up to

the gate of the monastery, and ignoring utterly a mighty hound, who

nearly strangled himself in his efforts to rend me limb from limb, I

looked about me. Near the gate was a white monk, walking slowly, with

his eyes upon the ground. He bowed in response to my salutation; but,

when he raised his head, his hesitation, and the spasmodic movements of

his lips before he spoke, betrayed the effect of the rule of silence.

The words came with an effort.

"Vous n'avez qu'à sonner à la porte."

I rang the bell accordingly, when there emerged, from the lodge

opposite to the gate, another little, square-headed, white-robed monk,

who, smiling, and bowing low, with spread hands, welcomed me to the

monastery.

My guide was an intelligent, affectionate, resigned little Flamand,

his natural cheerfulness of disposition tempered by the inevitable

sadness of a vocation now generally despised, and quite apart from

the swiftly-flowing current of modern life. Together we traversed

the rooms and corridors of the modern buildings--until recently a

penitentiary school--from which the members of the chapter, held

annually in September, had departed only the day before my visit. On

the walls of the assembly room were plans of the four daughter abbeys

of Citeaux--La Ferté, Pontigny, Clairvaux, and Morimond; "Une mère bien

féconde," as my guide said--and the signed letter of Pope Leo XIII.,

restoring Citeaux to the Cistercian order. The chapter table, round

which ran the names of the abbeys represented, was still littered with

pens and ink for use at the function. My monk pointed out the little

ballot-box, filled with white beans, by means of which the voting was

done. A majority of one carries the day, and the ballot is open, unless

one member expresses a desire for it to be secret. The rule of St.

Benedict, and the book of the constitutions, are kept on the table for

reference, if necessary.

We passed beneath the bust of St. Bernard, which is over the door, and

descended to the foot of the stairs, where my companion put on again,

over his sandalled feet, the sabots he had kicked off on entering. A

moment later we were standing in the refectory, where, upon the table,

were laid the spoons, the brown earthenware plates, the bowls and the

napkins, all ready for the next meal. The abbot sits, as of old, at the

head of his twenty-five monks, and in the middle is a table with three

"couverts," where the same vegetarian repast is served to three souls

in purgatory, the remains being given to the poor. Thence, I was taken

to see the little cloister, the staircase tower and library, probably

of the fourteenth century, all that remains of the great Abbey. On the

way we passed through the garden, where a dozen or more black and

white-robed brethren were busily digging the ground, still carrying on

the tradition of St. Benedict, that in the sweat of their brow they

should eat bread. That sight alone repaid well the trouble of coming to

Citeaux in the rain.

[Illustration: Justice and Truth]

Meanwhile, my gentle guide talked resignedly of the ruin of the

building, of the decay of the order. There was a note of deep sadness

in his voice, as he said:--

"Justice and truth are like the sun; they traverse the earth; they set."

"They rise again on the other side," I added. A smile lit up the

peaceful, flamand face.

"Yes, they rise again on the other side."

We were at the gate.

"How I wish my wife had been here," I said, thoughtlessly. "She would

so have enjoyed talking with you."

The little monk smiled, twinkled almost. Here was an artless stranger,

indeed!

"Monsieur," shaking his head, "We do not allow ladies to pass the

gate." It was my turn to smile, and to apologise. My friend guide

understood. He took my hand.

"Probably," he murmured, "we meet no more in this world. Then, adieu."

Again he bowed low, with spread hands. The iron gate of Citeaux clanged

behind me; I was out in the living world once more. As I rode to

Nuits in the rain, between the dripping trees of the ancient forest,

whose glades had echoed to the foot-fall of St. Bernard, I felt, more

strongly than ever before, how close is the rapport existing between

the ascetic mysticism of that time--symbolising the soul of things

in saint and hermit--and the wider transcendentalism of to-day,

that, taking, as Bacon took, the all for its medium, works, through

art, through science, through poetry, through even subtler and more

recondite communion of the human spirit with fellow spirits and with

nature, towards the ultimate goal of truth.

FOOTNOTES:

[98] Some authorities think that the name refers to the many pools,

overgrown with bulrushes and other aquatic plants--Cit-eaux.

[99] The author of "A Concise History of the Cistercian Order," cap.

iii. p. 67, states that tradition assigns the appearance of the

vision to St. Alberic, but he adds that the immediate historical

cause of the adoption of the white habit is somewhat mysterious. I

venture to think that the legendary cause was also the historical

one, seeing that all the Cistercian houses were dedicated to "the

Queen of Heaven and Earth, Holy Mary." Moreover, what more natural

than such a symbol in a wholly symbolical age?

[100] See Life of St. Stephen in "Cistercian Saints" quoted in

"A Concise History of the Cistercian Order." p. 68.

[101] Martenne Thes. Anec. Tome v., p. 1650, quoted in "History of

Cistercian Order." p. 71.

[102] "Cistercian Saints" cap. xiii., quoted in "A Concise History of

the Cistercian Order." Chevalier speaks also of a boy face, and

a white forehead; and adds that his bearing would have appeared

proud but for a slight drooping of the head upon the shoulders,

which lent sweetness to his general appearance.

[103] Guill. Vit. S. Bern: lib. 1, n. 2. Quoted Chevalier's "Histoire

de St. Bernard," p. 8.

[104] Chevalier's "Life of St. Bernard." p. 55.

[105] Chevalier's "St. Bernard," vol. xi., p. 357.

[106] Quoted "Histoire de St. Bernard," Chevalier, vol. ii., p. 350.

[107] Pignot's "Cluny," Tome iii., pp. 108-114.

[108] Petit. "Histoire des Ducs Capétiens."

[Illustration: Heading of chapter VIII; Paray-le-Monial; the Church]

Burgundy: The Splendid Duchy. Stories and Sketches in South Burgundy · 第 7 / 20 章