with insecticides; the nest also should have a good dusting of the
same. Both hen and nest should undergo a thorough dusting several
times during the process of hatching as a safeguard against lice. When
the ducklings are hatched they should also have their share of the
insecticides before they are given to the hen. When a large number of
sitting hens are used for hatching, as many as possible should be set
at one time, and the ducklings raised in brooders. Hatching with hens
may be done on a large scale and the young brooded artificially. As
many as five hundred sitting hens are used on some farms for hatching
ducks. They are set in small houses or rooms with the nests around the
sides in tiers, each nest having its own lattice door. Each day, in the
morning, the hens are taken from their nests and fed and watered on the
floor of the room. They are taken down in limited numbers, sections,
as it were, at a time, and after they have had the food, drink, and a
little exercise they are placed back on the nests and another section
is fed and watered.
ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION.
The subject of artificial incubation has engaged the attention of the
civilized world for generations past; the method has done wonders for
the poultry industry and has opened up the pathways to fortunes that
might otherwise never have been made. The science of incubation and
brooding has been developed wonderfully in this country during the last
quarter of a century, and what seemed almost an impossibility then has
indeed become a certainty now. There are many thousands of chicks and
ducklings hatched by artificial means each year, and the numbers of
good machines now being manufactured in this country at low prices make
poultry raising a business that almost anyone with a limited capital
may profitably engage in. The mission of an incubator is to supplant
the sitting hen, and make it possible to hatch a large number of chicks
at a minimum amount of cost and labor. That this can be done is proved
each day.
For artificial incubation, have a room with a temperature as nearly
uniform as possible. Balance the beat in the machines, or in other
words, see that the heat is uniform at both ends, and, in fact, all
over them. See that each is running steadily before placing the eggs in
it, as there is a great deal in starting right. The machines should be
run at a temperature of 102° for the first three weeks, and 103° the
last week. The eggs should be turned twice each day at regular periods.
Introduce a pan of water from the fifteenth to the twenty-second day,
no matter what the location of the machine, whether in a damp cellar
or in a dry room overhead, in a moist atmosphere near the seashore or
in a dry one at an altitude in the country. The temperature may go as
high as 101° just previous to and while hatching without injury. Place
the glass on a live egg after the animal heat rises, which will be
when the circulation begins. This will be perceptible in good eggs the
fourteenth and fifteenth days.
Considerable weight has been put upon the ventilation question in
incubators by manufacturers and operators, but it has been found that
when the egg chamber is roomy, and the eggs are taken out and cooled
twice each day, it is not of so much consequence. There is no doubt
but that there must be some ventilation in the egg chamber, but from
the experience and observation of the writer the value of the subject
has been overestimated by many. Some machines have top ventilation,
some bottom, and others both top and bottom, and there is seemingly no
marked difference in the hatching.
When the ducklings are hatching, the broken egg shells should be
removed once in every six or eight hours, so that they will not slip
over the pipped eggs, as it would be sure death to the imprisoned ones.
Occasionally a little bird is unable to free itself from the shell
and needs help; the expert can readily detect when this is necessary.
The one point to note in this connection is this: The egg just before
hatching radiates a great deal of heat, while the duckling, when first
out, being not unlike a little sponge, absorbs it, or in other words,
the rapid evaporation which takes place generates cold; so that when
the ducklings are out the machine should be gauged one degree higher.
When the ducklings are all out and dried off, the machine will run
at least two degrees lower than when they were in the egg. Plenty
of ventilation is needed in the machines while hatching. Keep the
ducklings in the machine at least twenty-four hours after hatching,
when they will be strong enough to be removed to the brooder. The heat
in the brooder should be started twenty-four hours previous to use, so
that it will be perfectly heated and ready for the ducklings when they
are taken from the machine.
GEESE.
STANDARD BREEDS OF GEESE.
=Introduction.=--There are seven standard breeds of geese, as follows:
Gray Toulouse, White Embden, Gray African, Brown Chinese, White
Chinese, Gray Wild, and Colored Egyptian.
GRAY TOULOUSE GEESE.
=History.=--Gray Toulouse geese (fig. 29) are named for the city in
France of that name, where they are extensively bred. In this country
they are bred in large numbers by farmers and are fairly well thought
of for market purposes. Their flesh is a trifle too coarse and flabby,
when compared with some other geese, to be prized very highly for table
purposes. They are termed a Christmas goose, as being later in maturing
than the others they are just about right at the holiday time. They are
fairly good layers, averaging about 40 eggs in a season.
[Illustration: Fig. 29.--Pair of Gray Toulouse geese.]
=Description.=--Toulouse geese are more compact in shape than other
geese, and are preferred by many for this reason. The head is rather
large and short, and they have a comparatively short bill that is stout
at the base; the neck is carried well up and is of medium length.
They have a broad back of moderate length, which curves slightly from
the neck to the tail; their breasts are broad and deep. The body of
the Toulouse goose is moderate in length, broad, and very deep and
compact, the more compact the better; and in birds in good condition
the belly almost touches the ground. Their wings are large, strong,
and fold nicely against the sides, and they have comparatively short
tails, and stout thighs and shanks. In color of plumage they are a dull
gray, without penciling. The head is dark gray and the neck of the same
color, which shades to a lighter gray as it approaches the back; the
back is of dark gray, while the breast is light gray. The body plumage
is light gray, which grows lighter and becomes white on the belly; the
white extends back .to and around the tail, covering the fluffy parts.
The primaries of the wings are dark gray or brown; the secondaries are
a shade darker than the primaries and the coverts are dark gray. The
tail feathers are gray and white, the ends tipped with white. Their
eyes are dark brown or hazel in color; their bills, shanks, toes, and
webs are of deep reddish-orange color.
=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult
goose, 20 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose, 15 pounds.
WHITE EMBDEN GEESE.
=History.=--White Embden geese (fig. 30) are considered very practical
birds for farmers, and pay well for their keeping. They are nice
looking, of large size, tall and erect carriage,, and snow-white
plumage. They originally came from Embden, in Westphalia, and have been
bred in this country for many years.
=Description.=--The Embdens are not so prolific as the Brown Chinese or
Toulouse, 20 eggs in a season being a good average for them. Their eggs
are very large, white, and have a very thick, rough shell. In carriage
they are very tall and erect, and have fine square bodies. They have
rather large heads, medium-sized bill, and a long neck that is carried
upright. Their backs are of medium length, and arch slightly from the
neck to the tail; the breast is round and full, and the body is large,
square, and very deep, and, like the Toulouse, almost touches the
ground The wings are large and strong; tail short; thighs and shanks
short and stout. Their eyes are bright blue; bills flesh color; and
their shanks, toes, and webs are deep orange.
=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult
goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 18 pounds, and young goose 10 pounds.
GRAY AFRICAN GEESE.
=History.=--Gray African geese (fig. 31) are by many raisers considered
the most profitable of all geese to keep. They grow the heaviest in the
shortest space of time, and are ready for market in ten weeks, weighing
at that age between 8 and 10 pounds. They are very much like the Pekin
duck in this respect, and as compared with other geese give the most
satisfactory returns for the least labor and time spent in growing
them. They are, according to standard weights, as heavy as the Toulouse
and Embden, but specimens are not uncommon that exceed these weights
by several pounds. They are first-class layers and average about 40
eggs in a season. This is considered as a low estimate for their egg
production. For table purposes they are esteemed very highly, their
flesh being fine and nicely flavored.
[Illustration: Fig. 30.--Pair of White Embden geese.]
=Description.=--These geese have a large head, with a large knob,
and a heavy dewlap under the throat. These and the Chinese geese are
different from the others in the head, and are the only two breeds that
have the knob on the head. The bill of the African is rather large and
stout at the base, and their necks are long. Their backs are long and
flat, breasts round and moderately full, and they have large, long, and
upright bodies. The wings are large and strong, and are folded well
against the body; the thighs are short and stout, and shanks of medium
length. The knob is black and the dewlap of a gray color, while the
plumage of the neck is light gray with a dark stripe running from the
head to the body. The back is dark gray, the plumage of the breast is
gray, and the underpart of body is light gray. The wings and tail are
dark gray, and the thighs are light gray. The eyes are hazel or brown;
bill, black; shanks, toes, and web are of dark-orange color.
=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 20 pounds; adult
goose, 18 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 14 pounds.
[Illustration: Fig. 31.--Pair of Gray African geese.]
BROWN AND WHITE CHINESE GEESE.
=History.=--The smallest of the breeds of geese are the Chinese,
averaging in weight from 6 to 7 pounds lighter than those previously
named. Apparently their want of size has prevented them from becoming
favorites with those who raise large numbers annually, but with those
who keep a limited number they are found to be very practical. What
they lack in size they gain in egg production, being the most prolific
of all breeds of geese, averaging from 50 to 60 eggs a year. In size,
aptitude to fatten, and ease of management they appear in no respect
inferior to other geese, while the quality of flesh is decidedly
superior.
=Description.=--They are exceedingly graceful in appearance, quite
hardy, and the young mature early. There are two varieties of Chinese
geese--the Brown (fig. 32) and the White. They have large heads, with
large knob at base of a medium-length bill, and long, gracefully arched
necks. The backs are medium in length, and the breast is round and
full; body of medium size, round and plump; wings, large and strong;
thighs, short and stout, and shanks of medium length.
[Illustration: Fig. 32.--Pair of Brown Chinese geese (young).]
The color of head of the Brown Chinese geese is brown; knob dark brown
or black; neck light brown or grayish brown, with a dark stripe from
the head down to the body. The body is dark brown, breast grayish
brown, and the under parts are a shade lighter in color. The wings and
tail are brown, and the thighs are grayish brown. The eyes are hazel or
brown; bill dark brown or black; and shanks, toes, and webs are a dusky
orange color.
The color of plumage of the White Chinese geese is pure white
throughout, perfectly free from feathers of any other color. The knob
and bill are orange color, as are also the shanks, toes, and web. The
eyes are a deep leaden blue.
=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 14 pounds; adult
goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 10 pounds, and young goose, 8 pounds.
GRAY WILD GEESE.
=History.=--Gray Wild geese (fig. 33) are among the best known of
domestic geese, and are very generally bred throughout the entire
country. They are among the most valuable and practical birds for goose
raising, and are prized very highly for table purposes, besides being
good layers, hardy, and easy to rear.
[Illustration: Fig. 33.--Gray wild goose.]
=Description.=--These geese have a rather small head, small bill, sharp
at the point, and long, slender neck, snaky in appearance. The back
is long and rather narrow, and is arched from neck to tail; breast,
full and deep, and body long and somewhat slender. The wings are long,
large, and powerful, and the thighs are rather short. The head of the
Wild goose is black, with a white stripe nearly covering the side of
the face; bill, black; neck, black; and back, dark gray.
The breast is light gray, which grows darker as it approaches the legs;
the plumage of the underparts of the body from the legs to the tail is
white.
The wings are dark gray; primaries dusky black, showing only a
dark-gray color when the wing is folded; secondaries are brown, but of
a lighter shade than the primaries. The tail feathers are glossy black,
and the thighs are gray. The shanks, toes, and webs are black. The eyes
are black.
=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 16 pounds; adult
goose, 14 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 10 pounds.
COLORED EGYPTIAN GEESE.
=History.=--The most beautiful of the breeds of geese are the colored
Egyptians (fig. 34); they are purely ornamental, not having been
bred in this country for any other purpose than the showroom. They
are sometimes called the Nile Goose. This goose is tall and somewhat
slender, which gives it an elegance of appearance not possessed by any
other breed. It can generally be bred in confinement, but is of a most
quarrelsome nature, and the male will fight to the death other males
of the same species. The males must each be given a separate pen, and
mated with the females; it is seldom that any two males can be kept in
the same pen.
=Description.=--These geese have a medium-sized and rather long head, a
bill of medium length, and a rather small neck. The back is narrow and
slightly arched from the neck to the tail; breast, round; body, long,
but somewhat small and slender. Their wings are large, and have instead
of the ordinary hard knobs horny spurs about five-eighths of an inch
long; the thighs are of medium length, and the shanks rather long. The
color of the head is black and gray; the bill is purple or bluish red,
and the eyes orange.
[Illustration: Fig. 34.--Pair of Colored Egyptian geese.]
The neck and back are gray and black; the center of the breast is
chestnut, and the balance is gray. The upper parts of the plumage of
the body are gray and black, and the under parts are a pale yellow,
penciled with black. The shoulders of the wings are white, with a
narrow black stripe or bar. The tail feathers are glossy black; thighs,
pale buff; shanks, toes, and webs, reddish yellow. The eyes are orange.
=Weight.=--The standard weight of the adult gander is 15 pounds; adult
goose, 12 pounds; young gander, 12 pounds, and young goose, 9 pounds.
MANAGEMENT OF GEESE.
Goose raising is not so extensively engaged in as duck raising, the
conditions under which they can be successfully raised being almost
entirely different from those necessary for successful duck raising.
The duck, being smaller, can be raised in a more limited space than can
the goose, the latter needing free range and water, while the former
has been proved to do equally as well without water.
While the goose can not profitably be raised in as large numbers as
the duck, still it can not justly be termed unprofitable. There are
many places on a farm that are worthless for cultivation that could
be utilized with excellent results for goose raising. Fields that
have streams, branches, or unused springs on them could be turned to
good advantage by making them into goose pastures. Many farmers are
profiting by this and adding to their incomes annually. The care and
attention necessary for raising geese are very small when compared
with the returns, and the cost of food is also proportionately small
in comparison with the cost of food used for other birds bred for
market. A goose on range will gather the largest portion of its food,
consisting of grasses, insects, and other animal and vegetable matter
to be found in the fields and brooks.
The simplest kinds of houses are used for shelter; these should
be built after the plans of those given for ducks, but should be
proportionately of larger size to accommodate comfortably the number
of birds to be kept. Geese are long-lived birds, some having been
known to attain the age of 40 years, while birds of 15 and 20 years of
age are not uncommon. They retain their laying and hatching qualities
through life. Ganders should not be kept for breeding after 3 years of
age; young ganders are more active and insure greater fertility of the
eggs than old ones do; besides, ganders become more quarrelsome as age
advances.
The feathers of geese are an important source of revenue and find
a ready sale in the markets. A goose will average about 1 pound of
feathers a year. The feathers should be plucked when there is no blood
in the ends of the quills; this can be readily ascertained, as they
will then leave the flesh without hard pulling. Almost all breeds of
geese are good sitters and attentive mothers, and if left to themselves
will make their nests, much as when wild, and hatch a large percentage
of their eggs. But hens are now more frequently used for hatching goose
eggs; as by taking the eggs from the goose when laid and giving them to
hens to hatch, the goose will lay a greater number of eggs than if she
were permitted to sit.
All breeds of geese, except perhaps the Egyptian, are to be recommended
to farmers who keep a limited number in addition to other poultry and
allow them the freedom of the farm, but when goose raising is to be
more extensively engaged in, the African goose is to be especially
commended. It is the quickest to mature, most prolific, and the easiest
to handle of any of the varieties.
MATING AND SETTING.
In breeding African geese, mate two geese to one gander, and it will
be still better if pairs are used to secure better fertility of the
eggs. Those who contemplate raising geese should secure their stock in
the fall, so that the birds may become accustomed to the place before
the breeding season begins. The breeding stock should be at least 2
years old, and fully matured birds. When stock is purchased in the
fall they should be turned out in a pasture, and no other food than
what they gather themselves will be needed until the grass goes down.
Their rations should then consist of equal parts by measure, bran,
middlings, and corn meal, with 5 per cent of this bulk of beef scraps.
They should be given a light feed of this ration in the morning, and
at night they should be fed cracked corn. Ten per cent of the bulk of
the daily ration should be green foods, steamed clover, and cooked
vegetables.
[Illustration: Fig. 35.--Wild and African cross.]
[Illustration: Fig. 36.--Embden and Toulouse cross.]
The breeding season begins about February 1, though some geese will
begin laying as early as December, then stop, and begin again the first
of February. They make their own nests from the straw and litter on the
floor of their houses, and will lay from 12 to 20 eggs before becoming
broody. As soon as the goose shows an inclination to sit, remove her
and place her in a dark box or small coop, and keep her there for two
or three days with water for drink, but no food. Then she may be placed
back in the yards and she will begin another laying of eggs. The first
and second layings of eggs should be set under hens. After the goose
lays the second laying she should be confined again, when she will
lay a third laying. When she has laid the third laying she should be
permitted to sit on them, instead of giving them to hens. A goose will
lay from 10 to 15 eggs in each of the second and third layings.
It is recommended that after the eggs have been sat upon for
twenty-five days, that they be taken from the nest and placed for about
one minute in water heated to a temperature of 104°. Thirty days are
required for incubation. After the eggs have hatched leave the hen and
goslings in the nest for twenty-four hours; after the young have become
thoroughly dry remove hen and brood and pen them in a large, roomy coop
for four or five days. When the goslings have reached this age--four or
five days--they are perfectly able to take care of themselves. The hen
should then be taken from the goslings, which should be allowed freedom
to roam at will, but they should always be cooped up at night.
FEEDING AND DRESSING FOR MARKET.
[Illustration: Fig. 37.--Embden and African cross.]
The first feed for goslings is grass, fed on sod; a small allowance of
corn meal, slightly moistened, is also given them. Sand and charcoal
are sometimes mixed with the corn meal. They are fed on the above food
three times a day for a couple of days, when they are given a ration
composed of equal parts by measure, bran, middlings, and steamed cut
clover or cooked vegetables. This feed is given them morning, noon, and
night, until they are 8 weeks old, when they are penned to be fattened
for market at 10 weeks old.
To fatten young geese, place them in a pen, not too large, so that they
will not exercise too much, and feed three times a day all they will
eat up clean of the following: Corn meal mixed to a dry crumbly state,
and beef scraps amounting to 20 per cent of the bulk of the corn meal.
While fattening young geese they should be kept as quiet as possible;
no excitement whatever should disturb them. When feeding approach them
quietly, and do not irritate them in the least or they will not fatten,
but will "throw out" or grow another crop of feathers. At 10 weeks of
age, or when the tips of the wings reach the tail, they are ready for
market and should weigh between 8 and 10 pounds.
When young goslings are to be dressed for market they are killed by
cutting them in the roof of the mouth, severing the artery, or by
stunning them by hitting them a sharp, quick blow on the head. The
picker uses a box in front of him about the height of the knees,
holding the bird with the left hand and clasping the feet and wings
together; he places the head of the bird against the box and holds it
in place with the knee. Pick the feathers from the body of the bird,
then dampen the right hand and brush the body to remove the down. Leave
about 2 inches of feathers on the neck, and also leave feathers on the
wings at the first joint. Lay the wings against the body of the birds
and tie a string around to hold in position. I lace the birds, when
picked, in cold water for an hour or so to plump them; if they are in
the water too long they are liable to bleach and become water-soaked.
They are then iced up in barrels already to ship to market.
Young geese should be marketed in October. It is best to market all
possible before cold weather sets in. It is much harder to dress a
gosling in cold weather. The feathers set tighter, and in picking them
the flesh is torn.
CROSS BREEDING.
The most satisfactory results are to be had by breeding pure
standard-bred stock without crossing. But to those who are partial to
crosses the following are considered the best to make: (1) Wild gander
on African goose (fig. 35); (2) Embden gander on Toulouse goose (fig.
36); (3) Embden gander on African goose (fig. 37), and (4) Embden
gander on White China goose. These crosses will give good growth and
the young birds will dress well for market. Crosses should only be made
for market purposes, and should always be bred from original stock.
* * * * *
FARMERS' BULLETINS.
These bulletins are sent free of charge to any address upon application
to the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Only the following
are available: