LETTER XVIII. MARY ANNE DODD TO MISS DOOLAN, OF BALLYDOOLAN

Grand Hôtel du Rhin, Bonn.

Dearest Catherine,--Forgive me if I substitute for the loved appellation

of infancy the more softly sounding epithet which is consecrated to

verse in every language of Europe. Yes, thou mayst be Kate of all Kates

to the rest of Christendom, but to me thou art Catherine,--"Catrinella

mia," as thou wilt.

Here, dearest, as I sit embowered beside the wide and winding Rhine, the

day-dream of my childhood is at length realized. I live, I breathe, in

the land glorified by genius. Reflected in that stream is the castled

crag of Drachenfels, mirrored as in my heart the image of my dearest

Catherine. How shall I tell you of our existence here, fascinated by the

charms of song and scenery, elevated by the strains of immortal verse?

We are living at the Grand Hôtel du Rhin, my sweet child; and having

taken the entire first floor, are regarded as something like an imperial

family travelling under the name of Dodd.

I told you in my last of our acquaintance with Mrs. Gore Hampton. It

has, since then, ripened into friendship. It is now love. I feel the

dangerous captivation of speaking of her, even passingly. Her name

suggests all that can fascinate the heart and inthrall the imagination.

She is perfectly beautiful, and not less gifted than she is lovely.

Perhaps I cannot convey to my dearest Catherine a more accurate

conception of this charming being than by mentioning some--a few--of the

changes wrought by her influence on the habits of our daily life.

Our mornings are scientific,--entirely given up to botany, chemistry,

natural history, and geology, with occasional readings in political

economy and statistics. We all attend these except papa. Even James has

become a most attentive student, and never takes his eyes off Mrs. G.

during the lecture. At three we lunch, and then mount our horses for

a ride; since, thanks to Lord George's attentive politeness, seven

saddle-horses have been sent down from Brussels for our use. Once

mounted, we are like a school released from study, so full of gayety, so

overflowing with spirits and animation.

Where shall we go? is then the question. Some are for Godesberg, where

we dismount to eat ice and stroll through the gardens; others, of whom

your Mary Anne is ever one, vote for Rolandseck, that being the very

spot whence Roland the bravo--the brave Roland--sat to gaze upon those

convent walls that enclosed all that he adored on earth.

And oh! Catherine dearest, is there amongst the very highest of those

attributes which deify human nature any one that can compare with

fidelity? Does it not comprise nearly all the virtues, heroic as well

as humble? For my part, I think it should be the great theme of poets,

blending as it does some of the tenderest with some of the grandest

traits of the heart. From Petrarch to Paul--I mean Virginia's

Paul--there is a fascination in these examples that no other quality

ever evokes. My dearest Emily--I call Mrs. G. H. by her Christian name

always--joined me the other evening in a discussion on this subject

against Lord George James, and several others, our only cavalier being

the Ritter von Wolfenschftfer, a young German noble, who is studying

here, and a remarkable specimen of his class. He is tall, and what at

first seems heavy-browed, but, on nearer acquaintance, displays one

of those grand heads which are rarely met with save on the canvas of

Titian; he wears a long beard and moustache of a reddish brown, which,

accompanied by a certain solemnity of manner and a deep-toned voice,

impress you with a kind of awe at first. His family is, I believe, the

oldest in Germany, having been Barons of the Black Forest, in some very

early century. "The first Hapsburg," he says, was a "knecht," or

vassal, of one of his ancestors. His pride is, therefore, something

indescribable.

Lord George met him, I fancy, first at some royal table, and they

renewed their acquaintance here, shyly at the beginning, but after

a while with more cordiality; and now he is here every day singing,

sketching, reciting Schiller and Goethe, talking the most delightful

rhapsodies, and raving about moonlights on the Brocken, and mysticism in

the Hartzwald, till my very brain turns with distraction.

Don't you detest the "positif,"--the dreary, tiresome, tame, sad-colored

robe of reality? and do you not adore the prismatic-tinted drapery, that

envelops the dream-creatures of imagination? I know, dearest Catherine,

that you do. I feel by myself how you shrink from the stern aspect of

reality, and love to shroud yourself in the graceful tissues of fancy!

How, then, would you long to be here,--to discuss with us themes that

have no possible relation to anything actually existing,--to talk of

those visionary essences which form the creatures of the unreal world?

The "Ritter" is perfectly charming on these subjects; there is a vein of

love through his metaphysics, and of metaphysics through his love, that

elevates while it subdues. You will say it is a strange transition that

makes me flit from these things to thoughts of home and Ireland; but in

the wilful wandering of my fancy a vision of the past rises before me,

and I must seize it ere it depart. I wish, in fact, to speak to

you about a passage in your last letter which has given me equal

astonishment and suffering. What, dearest Kitty, do you mean by talking

of a certain person's "long-tried and devoted affection,"--"his hopes,

and his steadfast reliance on my truthfulness"? Have I ever given any

one the right to make such an appeal to me? I do really believe that no

one is less exposed to such a reproach than I am! I have the right, if I

please, to misconstrue your meaning, and assume a total ignorance as to

whom you are referring. But I will not avail myself of the privilege,

Kitty,--I will accept your allusion. You mean Dr. Belton. Now, I own

that I write this name with considerable reluctance and regret. His many

valuable qualities, and the natural goodness of his disposition, have

endeared him to all of that humble circle in which his lot is cast, and

it would grieve me to write one single word which should pain him to

hear. But I ask you, Kitty, what is there in our relative stations in

society which should embolden him to offer me attentions? Do we move in

the same sphere? have we either thoughts, ideas, or ambitions--have we

even acquaintances--in common? I do not want to magnify the position I

hold. Heaven knows that the great world is not a sea devoid of rocks

and quicksands. No one feels its perils more acutely than myself. But

I repeat it: Is there not a wide gulf between us? Could _he_ live, and

move, think, act, or plan, in the circle that I associate with? Could

_I_ exist, even for a day, in _his?_ No, dearest, impossible,--utterly

impossible. The great world has its requirements,--exactions, if you

will; they are imperative, often tyrannical: but their sweet recompense

comes back in that delicious tranquillity of soul, that bland

imperturbability that springs from good breeding,--the calm equanimity

that no accident can shake, from which no sudden shock can elicit a

vibration. I do not pretend, dearest friend, that I have yet attained to

this. I know well that I am still far distant from that great goal; but

I am on the road, Kitty,--my progress has commenced, and not for the

wealth of worlds would I turn back from it.

With thoughts like these in my heart,--instincts I should perhaps call

them.--how unsuited should I be to the humble monotony of a provincial

existence! Were I even to sacrifice my own happiness, should I secure

his? My heart responds, No, certainly not.

As to what you remark of the past, I feel it is easily replied to. The

little chapel at Bruff once struck me as a miracle of architectural

beauty. I really fancied that the doorway was in the highest taste

of florid Gothic, and that the east window was positively gorgeous in

tracery. As to the altar, I can only say that it appeared a mass

of gold, silver, and embroidery, such as we read of in the "Arabian

Nights." Am I to blame, Kitty, that, after having seen the real

splendors of St. Gudule, and the dome of Cologne, I can recant my former

belief, and acknowledge that the little edifice at Bruff is poor, mean,

and insignificant; its architecture a sham, and its splendor all tinsel?

and yet it is precisely what I left it.

You will then retort, that it is _I_ am changed! I own it, Kitty. I am

so. But can you make this a matter of reproach?

If so, is not every step in intellectual progress, every stage of

development, a stigma? Your theory, if carried out, would soar beyond

the limits of this life, and dare to assail the angelic existences of

the next!

But you could not intend this; no, Kitty, I acquit you at once of such

a notion; even the defence of your friend could not make you so unjust.

Dr. Belton must, surely, be in error as to any supposed pledges or

promises on my part. I have taxed my memory to the utmost, and

cannot recall any such. If, in the volatile gayety of a childish

heart,--remember, sweetest, I was only eighteen when I left home,--I may

have said some silly speech, surely it is not worth remembering, still

less recording, to make me blush for it. Lastly, Kitty, I have learned

to know that all real happiness is based upon filial obedience; and

whatever sentiments it would be possible for me to entertain for Dr. B.

would be diametrically opposed to the wishes of my papa and mamma.

I have now gone over this question in every direction I could think of,

because I hope that it may nevermore recur between us. It is a theme

which I advert to with sorrow, for really I am unable to acquit of

presumption one whose general character is conspicuous for a modest and

retiring humility. You will acquaint him with as much of the sentiments

I here express as you deem fitting. I leave everything to your excellent

delicacy and discretion. I only beg that I may not be again asked for

explanations on a matter so excessively disagreeable to discuss, and

that I may be spared alluding to those peculiar circumstances which

separate us forever. If the time should come when he will take a more

reasonable and just view of our respective conditions, nothing will be

more agreeable to me than to renew those relations of friendship which

we so long cultivated as neighbors; and if, in any future state I may

occupy, I can be of the least service to him, I beg you to believe that

it will be both a pride and a pleasure to me to know it.

It is needless, after this, to answer the question of your postscript.

Of course he must not write to me. Nothing could induce me to read his

letter. That he should ever have thought of such a thing is a proof--and

no slight one--of his utter ignorance of all the conventional rules

which regulate social intercourse. But a truce to a theme so painful.

I answer your brief question of the turn-down of your letter as curtly

as it is put. No; I am not in love with Lord George, nor is he with

me. We regard each other as brother and sister; we talk in the most

unreserved confidence; we say things which, in the narrower prejudices

of England, would be infallibly condemned. In fact, Kitty, the sway of

a conscientious sense of right, the inward feeling of purity, admit of

many liberties here, which are denied to us at home. Here I tell you,

in one word, what it is that constitutes the superiority in tone of

the Continent over our own country,--I should say it was this very same

freedom of thought and action.

The language is full of a thousand graceful courtesies that mean so much

or so little. The literature abounding in analysis of emotions,--that

secret anatomy of the heart, so fascinating and so instructive; the

habits of society so easy and so natural; and then that chivalrous

homage paid to the sex,--all contribute to extend the realms of

conversational topics, and at the same time to admit of various ways of

treating them, such as may suit the temper, the talent, or the caprice

of each. How often does it happen from this that one hears the gravest

themes of religion and politics debated in a spirit of the most

sparkling wit and levity, while subjects of the most trivial kind

are discussed with a degree of seriousness and a display of learning

actually astounding! This wonderful versatility is very remarkable in

another respect; for, strange enough, it is the young people abroad who

are the gravest in manner, the most reserved and most saturnine.

The high-spirited, the buoyant, and most daring talkers are the elderly.

In a word, Kitty, everything here is the reverse of that at home; and,

I am forced to confess, possesses a great superiority over our own

notions.

I am dying to tell you more of the Ritter, which, I must explain to you,

is the German for "Chevalier." If you want a confession, too, I will

make one; and that is that he is desperately in love with a poor friend

of yours, who feels herself quite unworthy of the devotion of this scion

of thirty-two quarterings.

In a worldly point of view, Kitty, the possibility of such an event

would be brilliant beyond conception. His estates are a principality,

and his Schloss von Wölfenberg one of the wonders of the Black Forest.

Does not your heart swell and bound, dearest, at the thought of a real

castle, in a real forest, with a real baron, Kitty?--one of those cruel

creatures, perhaps, who lived in feudal times, and always killed a

child, to warm their feet in his heart's blood? Not that our Ritter

looks this. On the contrary, he is gentle, low-voiced, and dreamy,--a

little too dreamy,--if I must say it, and not sufficiently alive to

the rattling drolleries of Lord George and James, who torment him

unceasingly.

Mamma likes him immensely, though their intercourse is limited to mere

bows and greetings; and even papa, whose prejudice against foreigners

increases with every day, acknowledges that he is very amiable and

good-tempered. Cary appears to me to be greatly taken with him, but he

never notices her, nor pays her the slightest attention. I 'm sure I

wish he would, and I should be delighted to contribute towards such a

conjuncture. Who knows what may happen later, for he has invited us

all to the Schloss for the shooting-season,--some time, I believe, in

autumn,--and papa has said "Yes."

I now come to another secret, dearest Kitty, depending on all your

discretion not to divulge it, at least for the present. Mamma has

received a confidential note from Waters, the attorney, informing her

that she is to succeed to the McCarthy estates and property of the late

Jones M'Carthy, of M'Carthy's Folly. The amount is not yet known to us,

and we are surrounded by such difficulties, from our desire to keep the

matter secret, that we cannot expect to know the particulars for some

time. The estates were considerable; but, like those of all the Irish

aristocracy, greatly encumbered. The personal property, mamma

thinks, could not have been burdened, so that this alone may turn out

handsomely.

By some deed of settlement, or something of the kind, executed at

papa's marriage with mamma, he voluntarily abandoned all right over

any property that should descend to her, so that she will possess

the unlimited control over this bequest. Mr. Waters mentions that

the testator desired--I am not certain that he did not require as a

condition--that we should take the name of McCarthy. I hope so with all

my heart I do not believe that anything could offer such obstacles to

us abroad as this terrible and emphatic monosyllable; now, Dodd M'Carthy

has a rhythm in it, and a resonance also.

It sounds territorially, too; like the _de_ of French nobility. We

should figure in fashionable "Arrivals and Departures" with a certain

air of distinction that is denied to us at present; and I really do not

see why we should not be "The M'Carthy." You know, dearest, that the

Herald's office never interferes about Celtic nobility, inasmuch as its

origin utterly defies investigation; and there are, consequently, no

pains nor penalties attached to the assumption of a native title. How

I should be delighted to hear us announced as "The M'Carthy, family and

suite," with an explanatory paragraph about papa being the blue or the

black knight. The English are always impressed with these things,

and foreigners regard them with immense devotion. There is another

incalculable advantage, Kitty, not to be overlooked. All little

eccentricities of manner, little peculiarities of accent, voice, and

intonation, of which neither pa nor ma are totally exempt, instead of

being criticised, as some short-sighted folk might criticise them, as

vulgar, low, and commonplace, rise at once to the dignity of a national

trait.

They are like Breton French, or certain Provençal expressions in use

amongst the ancient "Seigneurie" of the land. They actually dignify

station, instead of disgracing it, so that a "brogue" seems to seal

the very patent of your nobility, and the mutilations of your parts of

speech stand for quarterings on your escutcheon.

It might seem invidious were I to quote the instances which support my

theory; but I assure you, seriously, that social success, to be rapid,

requires aids like these. There was a time when being a Villiers, a

Stanley, or a Seymour gave you a kind of illusory nobility. You were a

species of human shot-silk, that turned blue in one light, and brown

in another; but now that Burke is read in the national schools, and the

"Almanach de Gotha" in the godless colleges, deception on this head is

impossible. They take you "to book" at once. You can't be one of the

Howards of Ettinham, for Lady Mary died childless; nor one of the

Worseley branch, for the present Marquis, who married Lady Alice de

Courtenaye, had only two children,--one, British envoy at the Court of

Prince of Salms und Schweinigen; the other, &c. In fact, Kitty, you are

voted nobody. They will not allow you father nor mother, uncle nor aunt,

nor even any good friends. Better be Popkins, or Perkins, Snooks, or

even Smith, than this! The Celtic _noblesse_, however, is a safe refuge

against all impertinent curiosity. Tracing the Dodd M'Carthy to his

parent stem would be like keeping count of the sheep in Sancho's story.

Besides, matters of succession are made matters of faith in the Church,

and why shouldn't they be in the M'Carthy family? I don't suppose we

want to be more infallible than the Pope?

I have not forgotten what you mentioned about your brother Robert; nor

was it at all necessary, my dear Kitty, for you to speak of his

talents and acquirements, which I well know are first-rate. I took an

opportunity the other day of alluding to the master to Lord George, who

has influence in every quarter. I told him pretty much in the words

of your letter, that he was equally distinguished in science as in

classics, had taken honors in both, and was in all other respects fully

qualified to be a tutor. That, being a gentleman by birth, though

of small fortune, his desire was to obtain the advantages of foreign

travel, and the opportunity of acquiring modern languages, for which he

was quite willing to assume all the labor and fatigue of a teacher. He

stopped me short here by saying, "I 'm afraid it 's no go. They 've made

a farce, and a devilish good one, too, of the 'Irish Tutor;' and I half

suspect that Dr. O'Toole, as he is called, has spoiled the trade."

I tried to introduce a word about Robert's attainments, but he broke in

with,--"That 's all very well; I 'm quite sure of everything you say.

But who takes a 'coach'?"--That's the slang for tutor, Kitty!--"No one

takes a 'coach' for his learning nowadays. What's wanted--particularly

when travelling--is a sharp, wide-awake fellow, that knows all the

dodges of the Continent as well as a courier, can bully the police, quiz

the custom-house, and slang the waiters. He ought to be up to the opera

and the ballet; be a dead hand at écarté, and a capital judge of cigars.

After these, his great requisites are never ceasing good-humor, and a

general flow of high spirits, to stand all the bad jokes and vapid fun

of young college men; a yielding disposition to go anywhere, with any

one, and for anything that may be proposed; and, finally, a ready tact

never to suppose himself included in any invitation with his 'Bear,'

who, however well he may treat him, will always prefer leaving him at

home when he dines at an 'Embassy.'"

This is a rapid sketch of a tutor's life and habits, as practised

abroad, Kitty; and I more than suspect Robert would not like it. Should

I be in error, however, and that such would suit his views, I'm sure

I can reckon on Lord George's kindness to find him an appointment.

Meanwhile let him "accustom himself to much smoking and occasional

brandy-and-water, lay in a good stock of droll anecdotes, and if he can

acquire any conjuring knowledge, or tricks on the cards, it will aid him

greatly." These hints are Lord G. 's, and, I am sure, invaluable.

A thunderstorm has just broken over the valley of the Rhine, and the

dread artillery of heaven comes pealing down from the "Lurlie" like a

chorus of demons in a mod-era opera. Our excursion being impossible, I

once more resume my task, and again seat myself to hold communion with

my dearest Kitty.

I find, besides, innumerable questions still unanswered in your last

dear letter. You ask me if, on the whole, I am happier than I was at

Dodsborough? How could you ever have penned such a quaere? The tone of

seriousness which you tell me of, in my letters, admits perhaps of a

softer epithet May it not be that soul-kindled elevation that comes of

daily association with high intelligences? If I were but to tell you the

names of the illustrious writers and great thinkers whom we meet here

almost every evening, Kitty, you would no longer be amazed at the

soaring flight my faculties have taken. Not that they appear to us, my

dearest friend, in the mystic robes of science, but in the humble garb

of common life, playing "groschen" whist, or a game of tric-trac. Just

fancy, if you can, Professor Faraday playing "petits jeux," or Wollaston

engaged at "hunt the slipper."

These are the intimacies, this the kind of intercourse, which

imperceptibly cultivate the mind, and enlarge the understanding; for, as

Mrs. Gore Hampton beautifully observes, "The charm of high-bred manner

is not to be acquired by attendance on a 'levee' or a 'drawing-room,' it

is imbibed in the atmosphere that pervades a court, in the daily, hourly

association with that harmonious elegance that surrounds a sovereign."

So, dearest Kitty, from intercourse with great minds is there a

perpetual gain to our stock of knowledge. "They are," as Mrs. G. says,

"the charged machines from which the electric sparks of genius are

eternally disengaging themselves." What a privilege to be the receivers!

There is a wondrous charm, too, in their simplicity, as well as in that

habit they have of mystically connecting the most trivial topics with

the most astounding speculations. A fairy tale becomes to _them_ a

metaphysical allegory. You would scarcely credit what curious doctrines

of socialism lie veiled under "Jack the Giant Killer," or that the

Marquis of Carabas, in the tale of "Puss in Boots," is meant to

illustrate the oppression of the landed aristocracy. Nor is this all,

Kitty; but they go further, and they are always speculating on something

beyond the actual catastrophe of a story; as, the other evening, I heard

a learned argument to show that had Bluebeard not been killed, he would

have inevitably formed an alliance with "Sister Anne," just for the sake

of supporting the cause of "marriage with a deceased wife's sister."

I only mention these as passing instances of that rich Imaginative

fertility which is as much their characteristic as is their wonderful

power of argumentation.

Lord George and James worry me greatly for my admiration of Germany and

the Germans. They talk, in slang, on themes that require a high strain

of intelligence to comprehend or even appreciate. No wonder, then, if

their frivolity offend and annoy me! The Bitter von Wolfenschäfer

is an unspeakable relief to me, after this tiresome quizzing. Shall I

own that Cary is their ally in the same ignoble warfare? Indeed, nothing

surprises, and at the same time depresses me more than to remark the

little benefit derived by Caroline from foreign travel. She would seem

to sit down perfectly contented with the information derived from books,

as though the really substantial advantages of a residence abroad were

not all dependent on direct intercourse with the people. "Why not read

Uhland and Tieck at home at Dodsborough?" say I to her. "To what end do

you come hundreds of miles away from your country, to do what might so

easily have been accomplished at home?" What do you think was her reply?

It was this: "That is exactly what I should like to do. Having seen some

parts of the Continent, having enjoyed the spectacle of those wonderful

things of nature and of art which a tour abroad would display, and

having acquired that facility in languages which comes so rapidly by

their daily use, I should like to go home again, adding to the pleasures

my own country supplies, stores of knowledge and resources from other

lands. I neither want to think that Frenchmen and Germans are better

bred than my own countrymen, nor that the rigid decorum of English

manners is only a flimsy veil of hypocrisy thrown over the coarse vices

of a coarse people."

Now, my dear Kitty, be as national and patriotic as one will; play "Rule

Britannia" every morning, with variations, on the piano; wear a Paisley

shawl and a Dunstable bonnet; make yourself as hideous and absurd as

the habits of your native country will admit of,--and that is a wide

latitude,--you will be obliged to own the startling fact, the Continent

_is_ more civilized than England. Daily life is surrounded with more

of elegance and of refinement, for the simple reason that there is

more leisure for both. There is none of that vulgarity of incessant

occupation so observable with us. Men do not live here to be Poor-law

guardians and Quarter Sessions chairmen, directors of railroads, or

members of select committees. They choose the nobler ambition of mental

cultivation and intellectual polish. They study the arts which adorn

social intercourse, and acquire those graceful accomplishments which

fascinate in the great world, and, in the phrase of the newspapers,

"make home happy."

I have now come to the end of my paper, and perhaps of your patience,

but not of my arguments on this theme, nor the wish to impress them upon

my dearest Kitty. Adieu! Adieu!

I can understand your astonishment at reading this, Kitty; but is it

not another proof that Ireland is far behind the rest of the world in

civilization? The systems exploded everywhere are still pursued there,

and the unprofitable learning that all other countries have abandoned is

precisely the object of hardest study and ambition.

There are twenty other things that I wished to consult my dearest Kitty

about, but I must conclude. It is now nigh eleven o'clock, the moon is

rising, and we are off on our excursion to the Drachenfels,--for you

must know that one of the stereotyped amusements of the Continent is to

ascend mountains for the sake of seeing daybreak from the "summit" It

is frequently a failure as regards the picturesque; but never so

with respect to the pleasure of the trip. Think of a mountain path by

moonlight, Kitty; your mule slowly toiling up the steep ascent, while

some one near murmurs "Childe Harold" in your ear, the perils of the

way permitting a hundred little devotional attentions so suggestive of

dependence and protection. I must break off,--they are calling for me;

and I have but time to write myself my dearest Kitty's dearest friend,

Mart Anne Dodd.

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