The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and

particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared gradually to

increase: the greatest that we experienced was in the vicinity of

Buccaneer's Archipelago; and at the anchorage in Camden Bay the tide rose

thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably by the intersected nature of the

coast.

The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be noticed for

the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes Londonderry and Van

Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree East. Between the former and

Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1 1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay

the mean of the observations gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the

westward of that, as far as Cape Villaret, the results of the

observations varied between 1 degree East and 1 degree West. Near the

North-west Cape, and to the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is

about two degrees Westerly.

On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the coast to

the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a river, but it

was not examined. The opening to the eastward of the projecting point

that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay, seemed to be a good port;

and to have an inlet at its bottom trending to the South-East.

CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude

131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson Bay: it is

fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable distance into the sea;

their extremity is nearly nine miles north from the cape.

Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the northward of

which there is a bay: to the south the shore is wooded, and trends for

eighteen miles to the north entrance of Anson Bay, which is formed by

PERON ISLANDS; these are low and sandy; at the extremity of the northern

island, there is a sandy peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30

seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is

overrun with mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel

existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely surrounded

by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very intricate, and useless,

since that to the south of the islands is so much better. Anson's Bay

affords good anchorage, and probably has a small rivulet at the bottom.

CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 130

degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef projecting for three miles from

it: hence the coast trends round to the southward for thirty miles to a

bay, which also has a small opening at the bottom; five miles inland

there is a range of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are

conspicuous; and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They

are the Barthelemy Hills.

A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in latitude 13

degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 34 minutes, the

eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a reef, which extends from it

for more than three miles. The west side has also a reef, but of much

more considerable size, stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for

fifteen miles; near its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks,

occupying an extent of two miles. The channel within the heads is from

two to four miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven

fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the narrow

mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to the south for

six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that run up for six or

seven miles more to the foot of a range of wooded hills, one of which is

MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of the inlet is occupied by a bank of

clay, that dries at low water. At about three miles within the narrow

entrance on the western side, there is an inlet, and above this the

anchorage is good, the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small

ironstone pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep

and rocky.

Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and

longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT PEARCE, in

latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 17

minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and was only seen at a

distance. Off the latter point there is a reef which does not extend to a

greater distance than a mile and a half.

To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive opening, which bad

weather and other circumstances did not allow of being examined. It is

nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth across between eight fathoms and

twenty. The south shore is lined by a considerable reef extending for

seven miles from the beach. The land was very indistinctly seen at the

back, but, in one part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in

which nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being

sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and the

rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this opening to be

of considerable size and importance.

The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It occupies an

extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by extensive reefs, which

project for twenty-three miles; the north extremity of the shoal water is

twenty-six miles, nearly due west from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a

narrow point, and then trends in to the South-West towards the coast.

The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it projects from

the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for seventeen miles, and

terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen miles north from Lacrosse Island,

in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2 minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and

their edges are very steep to. They are covered with large quantities of

mollusca, which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity.

CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a South-South-Westerly

direction for sixty-four miles. The entrance, between Cape Domett and

Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which

there is good anchorage for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides

the entrance into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles

and a half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from the

shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms. The reefs

project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On the eastern side

of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the point, we had seven

fathoms, and there was every appearance of the channel being deep in the

neighbourhood of Cape Domett. Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is

in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees

24 minutes, is a conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and

rocky, and, at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like

Lacrosse Island.

Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for

twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into two arms,

of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles from Lacrosse

Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a width of five miles, the

shores being twelve miles apart. The land on the western side of the gulf

is high and rocky; but the opposite shore is very low, and apparently

marshy. The bottom is of sand, as are the banks on either side, and

affords good anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in

mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather shore

near the edge of the bank.

The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the East and

West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a half wide, and

four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is joined by an arm that

washes the south side of Adolphus Island, and the united streams trend

together in a South-East direction, under the foot of Mount Connexion,

for a considerable distance. This inlet was not examined. The West Arm

extends down the west side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then

divided by a projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to

the eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to trend

to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin eleven miles

in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at seven miles,

gradually contracts as it winds under the base of the Bastion Hills:

before, however, you arrive at the basin, the stream is divided by

several islands and rocky islets, that narrow the channel in some parts

to the width of half a mile, in which the depth is very great, and the

tide runs with great strength.

At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the west shore

is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and there a detached hill

rising from a plain of low marshy land, that, at the time of our visit,

was covered with a salt incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of

the sea, which, apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great

extent: some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The

hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone formation. The

basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel in the centre, with

from five to nine fathoms water. The shore, opposite the Bastion Hills,

is low, and the gulf trends gradually round to the South-West for five

miles, when it is contracted into a narrow communication, called The Gut,

leading to an interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands,

which the tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow

stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also appeared

to be several others falling into the basin more to the westward. The

water was salt at the extremity of our exploration. The Gut leading to it

is two miles long, and not so much as a quarter of a mile wide: in some

parts we had nineteen fathoms, but in others it was deeper; it runs

through a chasm in the hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally

recede and form bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some

very considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any part

of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season when we were

there, it might probably be found in a more advanced season in every part

of the western side, where the land is high and the gullies numerous:

there is, however, no durable freshwater stream without the Gut. An

alligator was observed swimming about, but very few fish were noticed.

The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a distance of

ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but few sinuosities of

any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky, with here and there a few

sandy beaches: but the shore generally is open and exposed: there are

many parts, however, where a boat might land; particularly behind BUCKLE

HEAD, and a little farther on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place

there is a gully in the hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably

produce fresh water: this bay is near Captain Baudin's MOUNT CASUARINA, a

flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is only

visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West, and may be

seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is situated at six

miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes 15 seconds, and

longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds.

The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently elevated to

conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting Mount Casuarina, could

be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they do not appear to extend more

than two miles from the shore. At CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more

westerly. To the westward of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats

might effect a landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward.

To the eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than

two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the westernmost of the

bays, is an island with a reef extending for nearly three miles from it:

behind the island is another bay, that appeared to be fronted by the

above reef. In the offing, and at the distance of six miles from the

shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND; it is about two miles in circumference, and

surrounded by a coral reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its

north-east end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than

to the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the

South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several sandy

bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at about five

miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the back of which a gully

in the hills appeared promising for the search for fresh water, more

particularly on account of the verdant appearance of the trees near it.

CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised by the

reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land, which takes from it

a westerly direction; there are also two small sandy islets, Stewart's

Islets, at a little more than two miles from it, encompassed by the reef.

The cape is in 13 degrees 44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50

seconds East.

The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles, to CAPE

TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape Londonderry, and

projects from the shore for nearly five miles, but to the eastward of the

cape a ship may approach it within two miles.

To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay twelve

miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted by SIR GRAHAM

MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, and low, excepting at

the east end, where there is a flat-topped hill; there is also another

remarkable summit on a smaller island, to the north of the principal

island.

At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east entrance of

VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and the easternmost of

the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this space, which is nearly three

miles wide, is much occupied by rocks, so that it is contracted to the

width of little more than half a mile.

The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the innermost of

which commences at eight miles to the westward of Cape Talbot, and

extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary Island.

The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, and extends

to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude 13 degrees 44

minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and the Eclipse Isles. The

passage is from three and a half to five miles wide, and is deep and free

from danger. The bottom is rocky until within five miles of the Eclipse

Islands, when good anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms,

upon a muddy bottom.

The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks to the

eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about half a mile. In

entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to pass round Middle Rock,

and upon bringing the peaked summit of Jar Island, at the bottom of the

port, between it and Long Rocks, bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer

directly for Jar Island, until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you

may haul close round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have

passed the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the bay.

There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; but it is

too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the channels with great

strength; with the flood-tide there is no danger, as the stream will

carry a vessel through the deepest part; with the ebb-tide, however, it

should not be attempted.

The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of CAPE

BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and a half wide,

and quite free from danger. The approach to it, between TROUGHTON ISLAND

(latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11

minutes) and the reefs in the offing, is six miles wide, and probably

quite safe. We did not ascertain the existence of a channel on the east

side of the island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so,

would be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land near

it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good mark for the

port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds and longitude

126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.

Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten broad; it

offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, and should not be

approached nearer than a mile; but the western shore is steep to, and may

be passed very close: on this side the port there are many coves and bays

fit for any purposes. The most secure anchorage is in the centre of the

bay, where there is from seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze

has free access: but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be

found at the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven

fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the eastern

entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises about six feet.

JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it the channel

is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 degrees 7 minutes 10

seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 seconds.

The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, the

extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of this land

is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three miles from the

shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold approach. The reef

commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends round to Point Gibson, where

it terminates. This part of the coast is fronted by extensive reefs,

which render the approach to it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the

northward of the cape there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend

in an east and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east

extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 degrees

32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 seconds, is narrow,

and not more than five or six miles broad.

There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, that extends

in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty miles; and about

from three to five miles broad. The water breaks on many parts of it. Its

north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles

West 3/4 North from Troughton Island: in this space the sea is quite

clear, and from sixteen to twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the

channel, between the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it

is more than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three

fathoms deep.

Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY GULF. It is

twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep, independent of Port

Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with islands and reefs: a group

off Cape Voltaire was seen by the French and named by them the INSTITUTE

ISLANDS, the three principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called

Descartes, Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group,

and Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern side

of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN'S ISLANDS, which are high and

rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep, precipitous form,

and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in Cambridge Gulf. There is

also a conspicuous high bluff on the principal island, which appears to

have been seen by the French.

In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level, and

surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side are four sandy

beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle: a reef projects off

its north end for a mile and a half. The anchorage is good near the

island, but the water is very deep. The situation of its centre is in

latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42

minutes.

PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good anchorage in the

bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is quite land-locked; but

equally secure anchorage may be had for five miles higher up the port, in

from four to seven fathoms, mud. It extends for six miles farther, but

the depth in some parts is not more than two fathoms.

At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into two inlets,

which wind under the base of a dividing range of high, steep, and wooded

hills; these run up for five miles higher, when they become mere mangrove

creeks. There is probably another inlet on the east side of Port

Warrender which we did not examine, since it appeared to be less

considerable in size, and important in appearance, than the arm which we

had examined. CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and

longitude 125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds.

WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open to the

eastward. We did not enter it.

CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for more than

twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty Gulf from Montagu

Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its extremity, in latitude 14

degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12

seconds; and, at three miles more to the southward, a peaked hill; its

shores on either side are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the

width across to Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half.

The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist of three

rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues from the deck:

the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds,

longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds.

MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of Bigge's

Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from eleven to twenty

miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands; the outer range, which

is eight miles within the Montalivet Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS;

besides which there were several scattered about the sound, and some of

larger size near the main: of the latter are KATER'S and WOLLASTON'S.

They are of a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and

shallow soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees,

growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in latitude 14

degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32 minutes 25 seconds, was

visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN ISLAND, in the south-west corner of

the sound. The latter island is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20

seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both

rocky, and destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition

of the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between them

appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth among the

islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy bottom; but the

anchorage is better between Kater Island and the promontory that

separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other part. It is a very fine

port, particularly near the bottom, in SWIFT'S BAY, where the depth is

from four to five fathoms at low water, It is high water at full and

change in Swift's Bay at twelve o'clock, which is two hours and a quarter

later than in Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in

Port Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east end

of Bigge's Island are more numerous than in other parts of the sound:

they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to give correct

positions to. BIGGE'S ISLAND is fourteen miles long, and from six to

seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky character: its south end

appeared to be thickly wooded. A flat-topped hill near the shore of

Scott's Strait is a remarkable object, and may be seen six or seven

leagues off. It is in latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and

longitude 125 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds.

SCOTT'S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge's Island from the main: it

is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a quarter broad. It is

of irregular depth, and has some rocks in mid-channel, which are dry: the

deepest channel is near the eastern shore, the depth being from ten to

fourteen fathoms. The strait does not terminate until you are to the

westward of Cape Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of

Bigge's Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there

may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west end of

Bigge's Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones were seen by me

in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET ISLES of Commodore

Baudin; they consist of four or five principal islands, of about two

miles in length, besides as many more of very small size off the south

extremity of the group. The northern point of the northernmost island is

in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56

minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side by a

considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for seven miles; the

outer edge being three miles and a half to the westward of the group.

YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is contained between

Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the Coronation Islands. It is

spacious, but the bottom, in the middle, is rocky: there is, however,

very good anchorage near the Coronation Islands; and there is also,

possibly, as good on the eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which

has a rocky island immediately off it, the situation of which is in

latitude 14 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9

minutes 25 seconds.

At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC'S HARBOUR, a fine spacious

port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven broad: it is terminated

by two rivers, namely Hunter's and Roe's. It has several rocky islands on

either shore; and, at the bottom, they are numerous. The tide here rises

at the springs twenty-nine feet. The anchorage is not so good in the

entrance of the port, but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter's

River begins to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a

small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage may very

probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed, any where out of

the strength of the tides.

HUNTER'S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about one mile and

a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that width for more than four

miles, when it suddenly contracts and becomes shoal, and very tortuous in

its course, and winds through a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise

precipitously in some parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A

vessel may anchor in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its

course is to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the

entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and longitude 125

degrees 24 minutes. ROE'S RIVER first trends for seventeen miles to the

East by South, and then, taking a sudden turn to the south, runs up for

thirteen miles more; after which it trends to the South-East, and was

supposed to run up for at least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven

miles forms a very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but,

in anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls twenty-nine

feet. This river, like Hunter's River, is bounded on either bank by

precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are inaccessible.

Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off the latter

is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East from it, is a reef,

on which the sea breaks. This point is the east head of PORT NELSON,

which extends to the southward from it for eight miles: its western side

is formed by the Coronation Islands: its width is three miles, with good

anchorage all over it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid

was repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18

seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port Nelson

communicates with the sea to the westward of the Coronation Islands,

which may be considered a strait. At the south-west end of the

southernmost island, where the strait is narrowest, and not more than one

mile and a quarter wide, there is a patch of rocks in the centre, which

always shows: the channel on the north side of these rocks is the best:

the water is very deep, and the tide sets right through.

(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken every day during

our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect of refraction was so

great that the daily observations varied as much as 3 minutes 43 seconds.

The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the latitude 15

degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds,

and of fourteen observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8

seconds.

Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds

South.

The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of our two

visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the latter were taken

at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the difference of the meridians

of the two places, by chronometers and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8

seconds.

1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances with the

sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the sun being to the

east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees 11 minutes 24.3 seconds.

1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances with the

sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the sun being to the

west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River,

was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes 15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay

124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 seconds.

The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 minutes 46

seconds East.)

The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay, and are

situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of seventeen or

eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On the largest island

are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is in 14 degrees 59 minutes,

and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5 seconds. The island is eight miles

long, and from four to two wide; the others are from three to one mile in

length; they are covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well

clothed with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of

the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the

country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great drawbacks

upon the advantage of the tide's unusual rise. It is high water at full

and change in Port Nelson at twelve o'clock, as it is also in Montagu

Sound.

Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small, rocky islands

extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is Freycinet's Group; the

principal island of which Captain De Freycinet has described as

resembling an inverted bowl; and, from this description, we had no

difficulty in finding it out; it is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30

seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other

islands we distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On

the last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14 degrees

55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds.

We passed out to sea between Freycinet's Group and Keraudren; and within

one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen fathoms: it appeared, from

the colour of the water, to have a reef projecting to the westward.

BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends from CAPE

BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 124

degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates Port Nelson, to Point

Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and is about twenty miles in

extent, with good anchorage all over it. The coast is here very much

indented by rivers and bays; among which may be particularized Prince

Regent's River, Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth.

PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER is, without exception, the most remarkable feature

of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets of this coast form

extensive ports at their entrance; and, when they begin to assume the

character of a river, their course becomes tortuous, and very irregular;

of which there cannot be a better instance than the neighbouring river,

Roe's River. Prince Regent's River trends into the interior in a

South-East by East direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point

to intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The entrance

is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff on the west, a

width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by islands, that, in

hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is suddenly reduced to little

more than a mile: at the branching off of Rothsay Water, it is little

more than half a mile, and also the same width at the entrance of St.

George's Basin. In this space, however, it is in some parts a little

wider, but in no part between projecting points is it more than one mile

and a quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by

islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural banks of

the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington, is a deep bay,

but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles farther on are two

inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which the tide forms rapid

eddies and whirlpools, that render its approach dangerous. In mid-channel

is a group of isles; and, off the easternmost, a reef projects to the

eastward for more than half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here

the channel is not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the

western side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very

good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is, however, an

inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any farther up the

river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm; and was conjectured to

communicate with Prince Frederic's Harbour, and, if so, would insulate

the land between Capes Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay

Water; and the tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust

our small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of

this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank. Halfway

Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the tides, with

abundance of room to get underweigh from. The northernmost point of the

bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the

observations were taken to fix the longitude of Careening Bay. (See

above.) The two bays on the opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and

not fit for any vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the

shores are so lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts

at landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other within

three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is fronted by a rocky

shoal, which narrows it to less than half a mile; here the tide runs very

strong, and forms whirlpools. On passing the point, the river opens into

a large, spacious reach, which was called ST. GEORGE'S BASIN; and two

conspicuous islands in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK'S

ISLANDS. At the north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS

TRAFALGAR and WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in

latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 4

minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in diameter, but affords

no safe anchorage until a vessel is above St. Patrick's Island. The

northern side of the basin is shoaler, and has two small inlets, which

trend in on either side of the mounts, and run in for upwards of five

miles, but they are salt. At the south side of the basin there are two or

three inlets of considerable size, that trend in towards a low country.

At ten miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin the

river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so perfectly straight

for fourteen miles in a South-East by East course, that the hills, which

rise precipitously on either bank, were lost in distance, and the river

assumed the most exact appearance of being a strait; it was from one to

one mile and a quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms

deep on a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and

continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a few

slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until terminated by a

bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high enough to fall over, was

very dangerous to pass: here a considerable gully joins the main stream,

and, being fresh water, was supposed to have the same source as Roe's

River. The river trended up for about three or four miles farther, when

it is entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did

not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this, and the

stream was perceived to continue and form a very beautiful fresh-water

river, about two or three hundred yards wide. As our means did not allow

of our persevering any further, we gave up our examination. At seventeen

miles above St. George's Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of

fresh water falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one

hundred and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very

large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time of our

visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then there was a

very considerable quantity falling. Several small inlets trended in on

either side of the river above the basin, particularly one upon the north

side, which, from the height of the hills under which it trended, would

probably produce a freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from

the cascade, but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful,

for the boats' crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water

took place in St. George's Basin at twenty minutes after twelve o'clock:

the tide rose twenty-four feet.

HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep, but exposed

from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however, so good, that no

danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the bay there is a deep

chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water stream; beyond this the bay

terminates in a shoal basin. In the offing are several rocky islets,

particularly one, a high rock, which is very remarkable. A little to the

north-east of the river is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in

latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46

minutes 50 seconds.

HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover Bay from

Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in latitude 15 degrees

14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds.

Between High Bluff and Point Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10

seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE

THE FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two miles

long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a high rocky

islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in latitude 15 degrees

18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds.

The western side of the port is an extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND,

eleven miles long; it is high and rocky, and has several bays on its

eastern side. The port affords very good anchorage, particularly between

Entrance Island and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also

very good anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port

George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER'S STRAIT, communicating

with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is on the eastern side of

Entrance Island; for the opposite, although practicable and sufficiently

deep for the largest ships, is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can

be used.

POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the north-east end

of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point. In the offing, at the

distance of three miles, there is a considerable range of reefs, that

extend from the peaked island of Jackson's Isles; and more to the

north-west is another group of rocky islands.

To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands extending for

five leagues; on their north side they are fronted by considerable coral

reefs, which at low water are dry; besides which there are several small

islets that contract the channels, and render the navigation intricate

and difficult. Between Augustus and Byam Martin's Islands there is an

open strait, of one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the

sea to the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM

MARTIN'S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets, extending

North-North-East by a strait; and these last are divided from the

Champagny Isles by another strait, from twenty-eight to thirty fathoms

deep, through which the tide runs with great force. Off the north end of

Byam Martin's Island are several smaller islets and coral reefs; the

latter extend from it for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of

these islets is the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called

by him Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to the

westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds, and

longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and Champagny

Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive reefs. Ten miles North

26 degrees East from Red Island, and South 71 degrees West from

Freycinet's Island, is a dry sandbank surrounded by a reef.

DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost of the

CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south end, which are

dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes 45

seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds.

CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin's Island and Pratt's Islands,

and extends to the eastward to Roger's Strait; it is twelve miles deep

and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell thirty-seven feet and a half,

the moon's age being nineteen days. High water took place thirteen

minutes after the moon's transit.

Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles, the

mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening fronted by a

multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which, from our loss of

anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From Camden Bay the islands, for

the coast seemed too irregular to be the mainland, extend in a range in a

south direction for more than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared

to be a deep opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An

irregular line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the

North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six leagues. To

the westward of this, the land appeared to be less continuous, and to be

formed by a mass of islands separated by deep and narrow straits, through

some of which the tide was observed to rush with considerable strength,

foaming and curling in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of

rocks: this was particularly observed among the islands to the south of

Macleay's Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to the

South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which then trend to

the South-East; and to the westward they are separated from Cygnet Bay,

and the land to the southward of it by a strait five or six leagues wide.

The narrowest part of this strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is

twelve miles wide; two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets,

which bear due south from Sunday Strait.

MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern side of this

extensive range of islands, which are named BUCCANEER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are

low and of small extent, particularly the six easternmost, none of which

are a mile long: the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching

to the North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to

be of different formation to the other, being low and flat, whilst the

rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones, slightly clothed with

vegetation. Between the easternmost islet and the land, there is a strait

of a league in width. The tide prevented our trying its depth: a league

and a half to the north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings

between ten and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it

to reduce it to the depth at low water.

Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery's westernmost island are

COCKELL'S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of small size. A reef

extends for more than five miles to the westward, and it was not thought

improbable that it might be connected with the reefs that extend to the

westward of Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15

degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the

North-East of Cockell's Islands the flood-tide sets to the south; but to

the westward with great strength to the South-East, and, at an anchorage

ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the tide rose and fell

thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one days old. Cockell's Islands

are twenty miles from the land to the south; and in this interval, but

within four leagues from the shore, are several small rocky islets, on

one of which there is a remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two

islands, which have a more fertile and verdant appearance than any other

part near them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER'S BAY.

MACLEAY ISLES lie in a North by West direction, and are eight miles in

extent; the principal and highest island is near the south end of the

group; those to the northward are small and straggling. The centre of the

highest is in latitude 15 degrees 57 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees

42 minutes.

CAFFARELLI ISLAND was seen by the French. Its summit is in latitude 16

degrees 2 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 123 degrees 18 minutes 35

seconds. It is the north-westernmost of a range of islands, extending in

the direction of North 60 degrees West; among which Cleft Island, so

named from a remarkable cleft or chasm near its north end, and DAMPIER'S

MONUMENT, are conspicuous: the latter is a high lump. This range is

separated from one of a similar nature, and extending in a like direction

to the eastward, by a strait from three to four miles wide, and from

fifteen to twenty deep.

Fourteen miles North 68 degrees West from the summit of Caffarelli Island

is BRUE REEF, a circular patch of rocks of about a mile in diameter;

three miles to the north-east of which we had irregular soundings,

between thirty-eight and forty-five fathoms on a rocky bottom. The reef

is in 15 degrees 57 minutes South, and 123 degrees 4 minutes 45 seconds

East.

Six miles south of Caffarelli Island, is a rocky island, surrounded by a

reef; and eight miles farther are several small rocky islands, forming

the north extremity of a range, which, extending to the South by East for

ten miles, form the eastern side of Sunday Strait, which is the best, and

in fact the only safe communication with the deep opening between Point

Cunningham and the islands to the eastward. Between this strait and Point

Swan, a distance of eleven miles, the space is occupied by a multitude of

islands and islets, separated from each other by narrow and, probably, by

deep channels, through which the tide rushes with frightful rapidity.

Sunday Strait is more than four miles wide, and appears to be free from

danger. The tide sets through it at the rate of four or five miles an

hour, and forms strong ripplings, which would be, perhaps, dangerous for

a boat to encounter. The vessel was whirled round several times in

passing through it; but a boat, by being able to pull, might in a great

measure avoid passing through them.

CYGNET BAY is formed between the islands and Point Cunningham; it is

fronted by a bank, over which the least water that we found was two

fathoms; within this bank there is good anchorage, and near the inlets at

the bottom of the bay, there is a muddy bottom, with eight and nine

fathoms mud.

POINT CUNNINGHAM projects slightly to the eastward; its easternmost

extremity is in latitude 16 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds and longitude

123 degrees 10 minutes; from the northward it has the appearance of being

an island, as the land to the westward is rather lower: two miles and a

half south of it is Carlisle Head, the north extremity of GOODENOUGH BAY.

The shore thence extends in a South-South-East direction for seventeen

miles, in which space there is a shoal bay, beyond which we did not

penetrate. Off the point is an islet, in latitude about 16 degrees 58

minutes, and to the south of it the land was seen trending to the South

by East for four or five miles, when it was lost in distance. From this

anchorage no land was distinctly seen to the eastward; between the

bearings of East-North-East and South-South-East, a slight glimmering of

land was raised above the horizon, by the effect of refraction; but this,

as in a case that occurred before in a neighbouring part off Point

Gantheaume, might be at least fifty miles off.

From all that is at present known of this remarkable opening, there is

enough to excite the greatest interest; since, from the extent of the

opening, the rapidity of the stream, and the great rise and fall of the

tides, there must be a very extensive gulf or opening, totally different

from everything that has been before seen.

There is also good reason to suspect that the land between Cape Leveque

and Point Gantheaume is an island; and if so, the mouth of this opening

is eight miles wide; besides, who is to say that the land even of Cape

Villaret may not also be an island? The French expedition only saw small

portions of the coast to the southward; but it does not appear probable

that the opening extends to the southward of Cape Villaret. (See above.)

Thirty-three miles in a North 14 degrees West direction from the summit

of Caffarelli Island is ADELE ISLAND. It is low, and merely covered with

a few shrubs, and is about three miles from east to west, and from one to

one and a half broad; its west end is in 15 degrees 30 minutes South, and

123 degrees 9 minutes 15 seconds East. At about a league North-West from

its western end are two bare sandy islets, which were uncovered as we

passed, but which as there was not the slightest appearance of vegetation

upon it, may be covered at high water. On the western side of Adele

Island, is an extensive patch of light-coloured water, in some parts of

which the sea broke upon the rocks, which were only just below the

surface. The light-coloured water extends for fourteen miles North West

by West 1/2 West from Adele Island, but there is reason to think that the

water is deep over the greater part of it; for we crossed over its tail,

and sounded in forty-five fathoms without finding bottom, whilst in the

darker-coloured water on either side of it, we had forty-two and

forty-four fathoms.

POINT SWAN is the north-easternmost point of the land of Cape Leveque; it

has an island close off its extremity, round which the tide rushes with

great force, and forms a line of ripplings for ten miles to the

West-North-West, through which, even in the Bathurst, we found it

dangerous to pass. Five miles to the north-eastward of the point are two

small rocky islets, two miles apart from each other.

CAPE LEVEQUE is low and rocky, with a small islet close to its extremity:

its extreme is in latitude 16 degrees 21 minutes 50 seconds, and

longitude 122 degrees 56 minutes 35 seconds. Between the cape and Point

Swan, there is a sandy bay, fronted by a bed of rocks. It was in this bay

that the Buccaneers anchored, which Dampier has so well described.

The coast between CAPES LEVEQUE and BORDA extending South 40 degrees West

nineteen miles, is low and rocky, and the country sandy and unproductive.

Between Cape Borda and Point Emeriau is a bay ten miles deep, backed by

very low sandy land; and five miles further is another bay, that appeared

to be very shoal: thence the coast extends to the South-West for

twenty-three miles to CAPE BASKERVILLE; it is low and sandy, like that to

the northward, but the interior is higher, and with some appearance of

vegetation.

Thirteen miles from the shore are the LACEPEDE ISLANDS; they are three in

number, and surrounded by a reef nine miles long by five wide. They lie

in a North-West direction, and are two miles apart: the north-westernmost

is in latitude 16 degrees 49 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 122

degrees 7 minutes 20 seconds: they are low and slightly clothed with

bushes, and seem to be little more than the dry parts of the reef, on

which a soil has been accumulated, and in time produced vegetation. These

islands appear to be the haunt of prodigious numbers of boobies. The

variation is 0 degrees 12 minutes West.

In latitude 16 degrees 46 minutes, and longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes

30 seconds, the French have placed a reef, BANC DES BALEINES; which we

did not approach near enough to see.

Between Capes Baskerville and Berthollet, is CARNOT BAY; it is six miles

deep, and backed by low land. The bottom of the bay was not distinctly

seen, but from the appearance of the land behind the beach, it is not

improbable that there may be a rivulet falling into it.

At POINT COULOMB, in latitude 17 degrees 21 minutes, where there is a

range of dark red cliffs, the coast commences to present a more verdant

and pleasing appearance than to the north: the interior rises to an

unusual height, and forms a round-backed hill, covered with trees: it

reminded us of the appearance of the country of the north coast, and is

so different from the rugged and barren character of the Islands of

Buccaneer's Archipelago as to afford an additional ground for our

conjecture of the insularity of this land. The red cliffs extend for four

miles to the southward of Point Coulomb, and are then superseded by a low

coast, composed alternately of rocky shores and sandy beaches.

CAPE BOILEAU is seventeen miles to the south of Point Coulomb; here the

shore trends in and forms a bay fifteen miles wide and six deep: the

south head is the land of Point Gantheaume, which is composed of

sandhills very bare of vegetation, as was also the character of the

interior. From Point Gantheaume, in latitude 17 degrees 53 minutes, the

coast trends to the South-East for about fifteen miles, where it was lost

to view in distance: the extreme was a low sandy point, and appeared to

be the south extremity of the land. The space to the south of this, which

appeared to be a strait, insulating the land to the north as far as Cape

Leveque, is nine miles wide. The south shore trends to the westward to

Cape Villaret, on which there is a remarkable hillock, in latitude 18

degrees 19 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees 3 minutes 45

seconds.

The space between the Cape and Point Gantheaume was called ROEBUCK BAY.

It is here that Captain Dampier landed, in the year 1688.

Three miles to the south of the hillock on Cape Villaret, are two lumps,

which at a distance appeared like rocks. Cape Latouche-Treville has a

small hummock near its extremity, in latitude 18 degrees 29 minutes, and

longitude 121 degrees 50 minutes 50 seconds; to the eastward of it, there

is a shallow bay open to the northward.

The depth of water in the offing of Roebuck Bay, is between eight and

twelve fathoms; the bottom is sandy, and there are in some parts

sandbanks, on which the depth decreased three fathoms at one heave, but

the least water was eight fathoms. The flood-tide sets to the eastward,

towards the opening, and at an anchorage near Cape Latouche-Treville, the

ebb ran to the North-East: but the tides were at the neaps, and did not

rise more than sixteen feet. Captain Dampier, at the springs, found it

flow thirty feet, which tends unquestionably to prove the opening behind

Roebuck Bay to be considerable, even if it does not communicate with that

behind the Buccaneer's Archipelago.

The interval between Cape Latouche-Treville and Depuch Island, was not

seen by us. The following brief description of it is taken from M. De

Freycinet's account of Commodore Baudin's voyage.

LAGRANGE BAY, to the east of Cape Bossut, is a bight, the bottom of which

was not seen. CAPE BOSSUT is low and sandy, as well as the neighbouring

land; and, with the exception of a small grove of trees a little to the

north of Cape Duhamel, the country is sterile everywhere.

The CASUARINA REEF is a bank of sand and rocks, parts of which are dry,

on which the sea occasionally breaks. The channel between it and the

shore is narrow and shoal, the depth being two and a half fathoms. The

dry part of the reef extends from east to west for about two miles.

Between CAPES DUHAMEL and MISSIESSY, the coast is sandy and sterile, with

rocky projections: GEOFFROY and DESAULT BAYS are of the same character.

With the exception of two intervals, one of which is to the west of Cape

Missiessy, and the other to the east of the Bancs des Planaires, the

French saw the coast between Capes Missiessy and Keraudren, but at a

great distance. It appeared low and sterile.

The BANCS DES PLANAIRES appeared to have a considerable longitudinal

extent; it was not ascertained whether they joined the mainland: some

parts seemed to be dry at low water.

There is a bank with only fourteen feet water over it, situated nearly

North-East from Cape Keraudren in 19 degrees 41 minutes latitude.

North, a little westerly, from CAPE LARREY, between which and Cape

Keraudren there is a bay with an island (POISSONNIER) in the entrance, is

BEDOUT ISLAND. It is in latitude 19 degrees 29 minutes, longitude 116

degrees 32 minutes, East of Paris, or 118 degrees 52 minutes East of

Greenwich. It is low and sandy.

The BANC DES AMPHINOMES is very extensive, and appeared to be connected

with the main; it is composed of coral, rocks, and sand.

The coast to the South-West of Cape Larrey is, as well as the Cape

itself, of a remarkable red colour. The country appeared to be sterile.

TURTLE ISLANDS, two in number, lie West-North-West from Cape Larrey: the

south-westernmost is merely a flat sandy islet (PLATEAU DE SABLE) the

other is surrounded by a reef of coral, upon which the sea breaks. The

Casuarina (M. De Freycinet's vessel) had nine fathoms within half a mile

of it; the reef appeared to be steep, and the island to afford a landing

in fine weather.

The land is equally low and sandy as far as CAPE THOUIN and CAPE

COSSIGNY.

The GEOGRAPHE REEFS extend for more than twelve miles, and perhaps are

joined to the land. Their southern parts dry at low water. The Geographe

sailed through them, so that it is probable they are detached in numerous

reefs.

At FORESTIER ISLANDS we saw the coast again. The main is here very low,

but from the shoalness of the water we were not able to penetrate behind

Depuch Island. It is very uncertain whether the coastline that is laid

down upon the chart is correct: it was scarcely visible from the deck,

and was so low that it might have merely been the dry parts of extensive

reefs. The high land retires for fifteen or twenty miles, and forms an

amphitheatre or deep bay, with some hills of considerable elevation in

the distance.

All the islands of this group are low and sandy, excepting DEPUCH, which

is high, and of a very peculiar formation; it is described in the first

volume.

We did not land upon it, but on its north-east side there appeared to be

a bay, on which the French found a stream of water.

Between DEPUCH ISLAND and CAPE LAMBERT the coast is very shoal. Towards

the latter the hills approach the sea, and the bottom is deeper. BEZOUT

ISLAND is connected to the cape by a reef, on which there are several dry

rocks; we passed close round its north-east edge, and had eleven fathoms.

To the westward of Cape Lambert, in latitude 20 degrees 24 minutes 30

seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 7 minutes, there are two deep

openings, which appeared to be merely bays, but their bottom was not

distinctly seen. On the top of the hill of the projecting point that

separates them, there are three remarkable rocky summits. The next point

has several round-backed hills upon it; it is the east head of NICKOL'S

BAY, into which there may possibly fall one or more streams; its shores

are low, and appeared to be lined with mangroves. Nickol's Bay affords

good anchorage in six and seven fathoms, and is only exposed to the

North-East. It is protected from westerly winds by high land: it is,

however, rather exposed to the South-West winds, from the little

elevation of the land in that direction; but if a vessel should drive,

the passage between Bezout and Delambre Island is clear and, as far as we

know, free from danger.

DELAMBRE ISLAND has very extensive reefs stretching to the northward, and

also to the eastward, but on its western side did not appear to extend

for more than half a mile: the hill at the north end of the island is in

latitude 20 degrees 23 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 1

minute 25 seconds; the passage between it and the reef off HAUY ISLAND,

is about two miles and a half wide, and from nine to ten fathoms deep.

The edge of the reef off the latter island is not well defined, for we

passed several straggling rocks.

LEGENDRE ISLAND is the northernmost of Dampier's Archipelago: it is nine

miles long, and from half to one and a half mile broad: near its

south-east end, which is connected to HAUY ISLAND, there are several

rocky islets, and near its extremity it has three remarkable hillocks;

its North-West point is in latitude 20 degrees 18 minutes 45 seconds, and

longitude 116 degrees 46 minutes; its north-east coast and north-west

extremity are of bold approach: the latter has a reef that fronts its

shores, extending for about a quarter of a mile into the sea; the ground

under its lee is rocky, and not safe to anchor near. Our cable hooked a

rock, fortunately however it was rotten, and broke away, so that the

cable, being a chain was not damaged.

The islands of DAMPIER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are of high rocky character, and

very different from either the coast or the islands in their vicinity. It

consists of about twenty islands, besides smaller ones, scattered over a

space of forty miles in extent: Delambre is the easternmost island, and a

small sandy island to the South-West of Enderby Island is the

westernmost.

GIDLEY ISLAND, and two others to the eastward, extend in a north and

south direction; they are high and rocky. The west shore of Gidley Island

appeared to be fronted by a continuous reef, on which some patches of dry

rocks were observed. Gidley Island is separated from Legendre Island by a

very shoal and rocky strait, apparently impassable for anything larger

than boats. It has several small sandy islets scattered about it, and at

low water the greater part is dry. There is doubtless a deep passage

through, but it must be intricate and dangerous, and only to be attempted

in a case of the most pressing emergency. On the island to the southward,

are two sandy bays. The land to the southward is doubtless a part of the

main: and is, like the other islands, high and rocky. It forms the

eastern shore of MERMAID's STRAIT, which is an excellent port, affording

safe and secure anchorage at all seasons.

The islands on the western side of the strait, are LEWIS and MALUS. The

north-east point of the latter island, COURTENAY HEAD, is, without doubt,

Captain Dampier's Bluff Head. It is a very remarkable point; its summit

is in 20 degrees 29 minutes 5 seconds South, and 116 degrees 36 minutes

35 seconds East. On its west side is a sandy bay with good anchorage in

four and five fathoms. Malus Island is separated from Lewis Island by a

strait a mile wide; it is probably deep.

The north-east point of LEWIS ISLAND is a narrow projecting tongue of

land, terminating in a high rocky lump; and to the southward of it, are

two high rocky islets of similar appearance. There is also another, but

of smaller size, off the south-east point of Malus Island. In the centre

of Lewis Island there is a valley, that stretches across to the opposite

sides of the island, forming a bay on either side.

To the south of Lewis Island is a group of islands, which, from the

circumstance of our communicating with the natives, was called

INTERCOURSE ISLANDS. They are all small. The largest has a remarkable

summit upon it, in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds, and

longitude 116 degrees 36 minutes 45 seconds: it is from this Island that

the natives drove us, and would not allow us to land.* The channel

between them and Lewis Island is more than a mile wide, and is seven and

eight fathoms deep.

(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)

ENDERBY ISLAND is separated from Lewis Island by a channel one mile and a

half wide, apparently clear and free from danger. Its south-west point is

ROCKY HEAD, the summit of which was found to be in latitude 20 degrees 35

minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 23 minutes 5 seconds. To

the north is GOODWYN ISLAND; and further north, and West-North-West from

Malus Island, from which it is separated by a strait two miles and a half

wide, is ROSEMARY ISLAND, which, when viewed from the North-North-East or

South-South-West, has three hummocks bearing from each other West by

North and East by South. The centre hummock is in latitude 20 degrees 27

minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 31 minutes. In the vicinity

of Rosemary and Goodwyn Islands are several small rocky islands,

particularly on the north-east side of the former; and at the distance of

three miles, to the north of the centre of Malus Island, is a patch of

flat rocks, which are those seen and noticed by Dampier (Dampier volume 3

page 81 table 4 Number 10) but from his vague account, it is not at all

certain what island he saw; and, was it not for the peculiarity and

remarkable appearance of Courtenay Head, it might have been any of the

others. There is good anchorage in all parts about the Archipelago,

particularly within Lewis Island, where the Intercourse Islands will

shelter a ship from whatever point the wind may blow.

There is no wood of any size to be procured among the islands, which is a

great drawback upon its utility as a port. In the rainy season water is

doubtless abundant, but must be soon evaporated. We saw no rivulet or any

fresh water, excepting a few gallons that were protected from the heat of

the sun by being under the shade of a fig, but from the number of natives

seen by us, it is probable that there must be a large quantity not far

off. The natives of this part use logs to convey them from and to the

islands. A small sandy island, with a reef extending for two miles from

its north-west end, and one mile and a half from its south-east end, lies

off the south-west end of Enderby Island, and would serve as a good

protection from the sea in a South-West wind, for the anchorage on the

south side of Enderby Island.

The mainland is high and rocky behind the islands, but at the bottom of

the bay again assumes a low character: more to the westward, a range of

hills rises abruptly and advances for fourteen miles in a North-West

direction from the interior, and reaches the shores of the bay, when it

extends for eleven miles to the westward, and is then terminated by a

valley, or an opening of one mile and a half wide, that separates it from

the rocky hills of CAPE PRESTON. The cape juts out into the sea, and is

connected by reefs to some low sandy islands to the North-East; it is in

latitude 20 degrees 49 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 116 degrees 5

minutes. In the centre of the bay, at eight miles North 64 degrees East

from the extremity of the cape, is a low, sandy islet, of about one-third

of a mile in diameter; and behind it, near the shores of the bay, there

appeared to be other islands of the same size and character, the

particular form and situation of which could not be distinguished.

There is a small rocky islet off Cape Preston, and some to the

South-South-West, in which direction the shore trends in and forms a bay,

the shores of which were not seen.

From Cape Preston the coast assumes a very different character from that

to the eastward, being less sinuous, very low, and either fronted by

mangroves, or by a range of sandhills, both of which conceal the

interior. The coast, at from three to seven miles, is fronted by a range

of low, sandy islets, from one quarter to two-thirds of a mile in

diameter: there are, however, two or three near Cape Preston of larger

size, particularly one bearing South 66 degrees West, fifteen miles from

the extremity of the cape, of rocky character, but very level, and

apparently sterile; it is nearly circular, and about two miles in

diameter. It is visible for about five leagues.

Thirty miles South-West by South from Cape Preston is a mangrove bight,

with several openings communicating with a large lagoon, or body of

water, at the base of a small range of hills. The bight is shoal and

thickly studded with sandy islets. Hence the coast extends to the

South-West by West, fronted by mangroves for about forty miles, and then

for about sixteen miles South-West to the entrance of Curlew River.

Between Curlew River and Cape Preston, a space of eighty-five miles,

there are not less than thirty sandy islets in sight from the coast,

separated from each other by channels, generally navigable, between one

to five miles wide. Good anchorage may be found among these islands, for

the sea cannot fail of being smooth in the strongest winds. The depth

among these islands is from four to six fathoms, and the bottom generally

of gravel or sand.

CURLEW RIVER is defended by a shoal entrance, and is merely a creek

running through a low country for three miles; its banks are overrun with

mangroves, and it affords no inducement whatever for vessels to visit it.

The country behind is low, and, at spring tides, or during the rainy

season, is inundated.

The coast continues low and sandy to CAPE LOCKER, a distance of thirteen

miles, and with the same barren character for twenty miles further,

forming the east side of Exmouth Gulf. ROSILY, and THEVENARD ISLES are

low and sandy; they were seen by us at a considerable distance.

BARROW'S ISLAND, of about forty miles in circumference, is of moderate

height and level aspect, but of very sterile and barren appearance. A

considerable reef extends towards the main from its south-east side,

where there is also a small islet: on the north-east side are three

islets; the two outermost of which are low and rocky. The west coast of

Barrow's Island was seen by the French, who thought it was part of the

main; they named its north-west end, CAPE DUPUY, and its south end, CAPE

POIVRE. At ten miles South 25 degrees West from the last cape, the French

charts have assigned a position to a reef: and four miles North 10

degrees East from Cape Dupuy is another. Neither were noticed by us,

since we did not approach this part sufficiently near to see them if they

do exist; of which, from the account of the French, there can be but

little doubt.

LOWENDAL ISLAND and TRIMOUILLE ISLAND were seen by us, but not any

vestige of HERMITE ISLAND, which the French have placed in their chart.

From M. de Freycinet's account, the two latter islands were seen at

different times; and since Trimouille Island has a reef extending for

five miles from its north-western extremity, as Hermite Island is

described to have, there seems to be good reason to suppose that there is

but one; had there been two, we should have seen it on passing this part

in 1822.*

(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)

From the reasons mentioned in the narrative, there remains no doubt in my

mind that Barrow's Island, and Lowendal and Trimouille Islands (which the

French called the Montebello Islands) are the long lost TRYAL ROCKS. The

latitude and description answer very exactly; the longitude alone raises

the doubt, but the reckonings of former navigators cannot be depended

upon, and errors of ten or twelve degrees of longitude were not rare, of

which many proofs might be found, by comparing the situations of places

formerly determined with their position on the charts of the present

time. Many old navigators were not very particular; and never gave the

error of their account upon arriving at their destined port, either from

shame or from carelessness and indifference.

A reef of rocks is said to exist in latitude 20 degrees 17 minutes 40

seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 46 minutes 6 seconds. They were seen

by Lieutenant Ritchie, R.N., in the command of a merchant brig, as

appears by an account published in the Sydney Gazette.

EXMOUTH GULF terminates the North-west Coast of Australia; it is

thirty-four miles wide at its entrance (between the North-west Cape and

Cape Locker) and forty-five miles deep. Its eastern side is formed by a

very low coast, the particulars of which were not distinguished, for it

is lined by an intricate cluster of islands that we could not, having but

one anchor, penetrate among. In the entrance is Muiron Island, and two

others, h and i; and within the gulf they are too numerous to

distinguish: all the outer ones have been assigned correct positions to,

as have all between Exmouth Gulf and Dampier's Archipelago. The islets y

and z are the outer ones of the group; between which and the western

shore there is a space of fourteen miles in extent, quite free from

danger, with regular soundings between nine and twelve fathoms on a sandy

bottom. Under the western shore, which is the deepest, there are some

bays which will afford anchorage; but the bottom is generally very rocky.

In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Rest, the shore is more sinuous, and

in the bay there is good anchorage in three and four fathoms, mud. Here

the gulf is twelve miles across, and from three to six fathoms deep; but

the eastern side is shoal and very low. The gulf then shoalens and

narrows very much; and at fifteen miles farther terminates in an inlet,

or, as has been subsequently conjectured, a strait communicating with the

sea at the south end of the high land that forms the western side of the

gulf, and which is doubtless the identical Cloates Island that has

puzzled navigators for the last eighty years. It perfectly answers the

descriptions that have been given; and the only thing against it is the

longitude; but this, like that of the Tryal Rocks, is not to be attended

to.

(*Footnote. Vide below.)

The south-west point of this land has been named Point Cloates until its

insularity shall be determined, when, for the sake of Geography, the name

of CLOATES ISLAND should be restored. At the bottom of the south-eastern

side of Exmouth Gulf the land is so low and the islands so numerous, that

it was in vain that we attempted to examine its shores, which was also

rendered still more difficult and dangerous to persevere in doing, from

our losses of anchors, and the strong winds which blew every night from

the South-West.

The NORTH-WEST CAPE is a low, sandy point, projecting for full two miles

to the East-North-East from the fall of the land, which was called

VLAMING HEAD. There is a reef of small extent off the cape, but separated

from it by a channel half a mile wide, and six fathoms deep; a sandy spit

extends also from the cape for about a quarter of a mile.

The extremity of the North-West Cape is in latitude 21 degrees 47 minutes

40 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 3 minutes 40 seconds; and Vlaming

Head in latitude 21 degrees 48 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 114

degrees 1 minute 40 seconds.

...

APPENDIX A. SECTION 5.

OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE WESTERN COAST BETWEEN

THE NORTH-WEST CAPE AND CAPE LEEUWIN.

NORTH-WEST COAST.

We did not obtain much experience of the winds upon this coast, having

only been upon it during the months of January and February, when they

prevailed between South-South-East and South-South-West, veering

sometimes, though rarely, to South-West. In the winter season (June,

July, and August) hard gales of wind have been experienced from the

North-West, even as high as Shark's Bay; and at this season the coast

ought not to be approached. The South-east Trade is suspended in the

neighbourhood of the coast in the summer season, and the winds are almost

constant from South-South-West.

Between the North-west Cape and POINT CLOATES, which is in 22 degrees 33

minutes 5 seconds South, a space of about fifty-two miles, the shore is

defended by a reef of rocks, extending from three to five miles from it.

The land is high and level, and of most sterile appearance: nearer the

north end there is a low, sandy plain at the foot of the hills; but to

the southward the coast appeared to be steep and precipitous. This is

evidently the land that has been taken for Cloates Island; and, in fact,

it is not at all unlikely to be an island, for, to the southward of the

latter point, the shore trends in, and was so indistinctly seen, that it

probably communicates with the bottom of Exmouth Gulf.* At latitude 23

degrees 10 minutes the coast slightly projects, and is fronted by a reef,

on which the sea was breaking heavily.

(*Footnote. Vide volume 1.)

CAPE FARQUHAR, in latitude 23 degrees 35 minutes, and longitude 113

degrees 35 minutes 35 seconds, is a low, sandy point. To the northward of

it the coast trends in and forms a bay, but not deep enough to offer

shelter from the prevailing winds.

Between Cape Farquhar and Cape Cuvier the coast is low and sandy; the

land has a level outline, and the shore is formed by a sandy beach, which

did not appear to be fronted by rocks. The land of CAPE CUVIER is high,

level, and rocky, and, rising abruptly from the sea, forms a bluff point,

in latitude 24 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 113 degrees 21

minutes 48 seconds. This promontory is the northern head of Shark's Bay.

The land was not seen by us to the South-East, and is laid down, as is

indeed the whole of Shark's Bay, from M. De Freycinet's chart, which was

drawn from the survey made of it in Commodore Baudin's voyage.

The western coast of BERNIER and DORRE ISLANDS are bold to, and are

composed of a high, precipitous cliff, with a level summit. The only

irregularity upon them is a slight elevation on the south end of the

latter. Off the north end of Bernier Island is the small islet called

KOK'S. The channel between Bernier and Dorre is about a mile and a half

wide, but is so blocked up by rocks as to be impassable.

DIRK HARTOG'S ISLAND extends from Cape Inscription, in latitude 25

degrees 28 minutes 20 seconds, to 26 degrees 6 minutes; it is here

separated from Point Escarpee (Bluff Point) by a strait, which has a

shoal communication with Shark's Bay. Dirk Hartog's Island is high, and

of similar appearance to Bernier and Dorre; it is fronted by a line of

breakers. DIRK HARTOG'S ROAD, at the north end of the island, is a

commodious roadstead, sheltered from all winds to the southward of east

and west; and, since they are the prevailing and almost constant winds of

this part, may be considered a very secure anchorage. There is a reef

extending off Cape Inscription for half a mile, which will also afford

protection from the sea, even should the wind blow hard from the west.

The beach of the bay is fronted by coral rocks, but affords easy landing

in all parts, particularly at high water. This beach is covered with

turtles' nests; and at daylight thirty to fifty might be turned and

embarked without any difficulty or delay. The animals are easily taken,

since the rocks prevent their escaping into the sea; and it is only at

high water that they can return. M. De Freycinet says (page 189) that

there is a passage between the reef, off the east point of the bay, and

the shore with ten fathoms.

The following account of Shark's Bay is taken from M. De Freycinet's

account (page 189 et seq.)

In the fairway of the entrance to Shark's Bay, between Dorre and Dirk

Hartog's Islands, is DAMPIER'S REEF; it is two miles in extent from east

to west, and about one mile wide. It has but two and a half and three

fathoms water over it, and should be approached with care, on account of

the swell. Proceeding southerly from Cape Levillain, which is the east

head of Dirk Hartog's Road, at the distance of five or six miles is a

cove (barachois) formed by reefs, where boats might obtain shelter. Hence

to Quoin Point (Coin-de-Mire) the coast has no sinuosities. TETRODON BAY

is seven miles wide and very shallow; it has two or three sandy islets in

it, and can only be entered by small boats. Near Refuge Point is a safe

and convenient creek. To the southward of this there are several shoal

bays. To the eastward of Cape Ransonnet, which is peaked and of a

moderate elevation, there are several little creeks well adapted for

boats and, to the westward, a sandy plain extends to the south extremity

of the island. That part of Shark's Bay, between Dirk Hartog's Island and

Peron's Peninsula, is formed by Le Passage Epineux, Useless Harbour

(Havre Inutile) and Henry Freycinet's Harbour: to the southward of the

line of bearing between Quoin Point and Cape Lesueur, the sea is shoal

and studded with banks, but to the north it is quite open.

The Passage Epineux, which separates Dirk Hartog's Island from the main,

is about two miles wide; but the reefs and rocks, which protrude from

either shore, reduce the passage to half that width. The depth upon the

rocky bar which stretches across the entrance is six fathoms, but

immediately without it the depth is twenty-two fathoms. M. De Freycinet

says, that a ship upon a lee shore in the vicinity of Point Escarpee may

enter this opening with confidence; she will find a good shelter and

excellent anchorage in five and six fathoms fine sand. To enter it, pass

in mid-channel, if anything, borrowing upon Point Escarpee, and steer for

the Mondrain de Direction, and pass over the bar without fearing the

breakers upon it, which are caused by the sudden decrease of depth, from

twenty-two to six fathoms; after this the depth will continue without

altering more than one fathom. The best anchorage is to the South-West of

Cape Ransonnet, for within it the passage is blocked up by shoals, over

which a boat cannot without difficulty pass.

USELESS HARBOUR is so shoal as to be, according to its name, quite

unserviceable; since boats can with difficulty penetrate to the bottom,

although its length is twenty-one miles: HENRY FREYCINET HARBOUR is

twenty-two leagues long in a South-East direction; and from three to six

leagues wide. Its entrance is blocked up by a bar; and, although the

depth within is in some parts considerable, it is very doubtful whether

ships can enter it. The shores are difficult to land upon, from the

shoals extending so far off.

On the western side of this harbour there are several inlets and deep

bays, but too shoal to be of any service. The eastern shore of the

harbour is formed by PERON'S PENINSULA, which separates it from HAMELIN'S

HARBOUR. It is sixteen leagues long and five leagues wide. DAMPIER'S BAY,

at the north-west end, contains several sandy bays, where boats may

almost always land. It is here that the French had their observatory.

From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des Hauts-Fonds, the

reefs extend for three leagues to the North and North-North-West. They

were then supposed to extend to the North-East.

The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin Harbour. The

opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the shoalness of the

water prevented their boats from approaching it. M. De Freycinet says:

"Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne contiennent aucune coupure;

l'uniformite y est par-tout complete," page 194.

Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry Freycinet, on

the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is nevertheless of larger

size. The centre is much occupied by banks, which entirely surround FAURE

ISLAND; the diameter of which is about two leagues.

Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the eastern

shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships could not reach

the shore on account of the reefs which front it. Here and there they

distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a scanty and burnt up

vegetation.

Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears to be that

in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's Peninsula, as well on

account of the excellency of the holding-ground, as the facility of

procuring fuel. The Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage,

and never experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from

the shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy bottom.

The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily distinguished. The

Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a kedge, merely to keep the

cable clear of the anchor. As the strongest winds were the South and

East, the bower anchor was laid in the latter direction.

The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De Freycinet's

account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The coasts of the

harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much more detailed by him,

and there is also much valuable information upon various heads,

particularly as to meteorological observations, and the productions of

the land and sea, and a curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as

these subjects are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been

disregarded.

From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by a

precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, to the

height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The coast is fringed with

an uninterrupted line of breakers. The summit of the land is so level,

and the coast so uniform, that no summits or points could be set with any

chance of recognizing them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was

between fifty and seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the

neighbourhood of Gantheaume Bay.

GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from South-West

winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, but Vlaming, who

sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; and if there is one, it

is of very small size, and unimportant. The shores of the bay are low and

of sterile appearance.

RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity of a range

of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet high, that extends

to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy shore commences and

continues with little variation, except occasional rocky projections and

sometimes rocky bays, as far as Cape Burney. The coast is moderately

high, and, in the interior, some hills of an unusual height for this part

of the coast are seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18

minutes, and between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees

55 minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the north

end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern end, by the

WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes 30

seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. The coast in

front of this range is of pleasing and verdant appearance; two or three

small openings in the sandy beach, with an evident separation in the

hills behind, particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore

indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and the more

wooded character of the coast, showed that the country was evidently more

fertile and productive than any other part between Cape Leeuwin and the

North-west Cape. The bottom at from ten to twelve miles off, is from

twenty to twenty-five fathoms deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a

dark gray colour.

CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles to the

southward is a reef, apparently detached from the shore.

HOUTMAN'S ABROLHOS. The old Dutch charts give a very considerable extent

to this reef; Van Keulen makes it cover a space of sea, forty-seven miles

long, and twenty-five broad. We only saw the islands at the south end,

with three detached reefs between them and the shore; one of which (the

southernmost) may probably be the TURTLE DOVE. The islands lie West 4

degrees North true, forty-one miles from Cape Burney, but the channel

(GEELVINK CHANNEL) between the shore and the reefs, is not more than

twenty-six miles wide. The south-easternmost reef that we saw is about

three miles long, and lies nearly ten miles South 55 degrees East from

the islands; it appeared to be covered, but the sea was breaking high

over it. In passing this part of the coast, Captain Hamelin, who

commanded the Naturaliste under Commodore Baudin's orders, must have

steered within the reefs, as the Geelvink (Vlaming's ship) did. The reef

that is laid down upon the chart, in latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes is

from Van Keulen. We did not see it. (See Horsburgh volume 1 page 98.)

From Cape Burney the coast is rather low and sandy; in 29 degrees 16

minutes is a reef; and seven miles more to the south is another; they lie

from five to seven miles from the shore.

In latitude 29 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, there is a small peaked

hillock; and in 29 degrees 17 minutes 50 seconds, a small sandy patch

upon the land.

Between latitudes 29 degrees 25 minutes and 29 degrees 55 minutes, we did

not see the coast, having passed it in the night. It is laid down from

Van Keulen's chart. Hence to Island Point, which is low and rocky, the

shore is lined with reefs, extending off shore for two to four miles. At

the back of this, and at about eight miles from the coast, is a rocky

range, of three leagues in length, on which are MOUNTS PERON and LESUEUR.

To the south of ISLAND POINT, are two bays fronted by reefs; the

southernmost, JURIEN BAY, has three or more small islets in it. The coast

to the south of the bay is sandy. In latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes, are

three small rocky lumps, very remarkably placed; the middle one is in

latitude 30 degrees 37 minutes 40 seconds: fourteen miles to the south of

these are two others, the north-easternmost is in latitude 30 degrees 51

minutes 50 seconds, they are very conspicuously placed upon a ridge of

bare white sand. Hence the coast winds to the South-South-East for eighty

miles as far as the entrance of Swan River. The coast is low and slightly

wooded, and lined with reefs, that in some places extend for two miles

from the shore. Off CAPE LESCHENAULT (in latitude 31 degrees 21 minutes)

is a reef, lying six miles and a half from the shore; it appeared to be

connected with the rocks that line the coast.

The following account of SWAN RIVER is taken from Captain De Freycinet's

account of Baudin's voyage (page 175 et seq).

"The mouth of Swan River is in latitude 32 degrees 4 minutes 31 seconds,

and longitude 113 degrees 26 minutes 28 seconds East of Paris, or (115

degrees 46 minutes 43 seconds East of Greenwich). The channel is

obstructed by a bar of rocks, which it is very difficult to pass over,

and, indeed, impracticable if the wind blows from the sea. On entering,

the passage is on the starboard side: it is narrow and shoal, and divided

into two channels; in each of which there is from five to six feet of

water; after passing this, there is seven and eight feet: the course must

then be towards the west, to avoid two shoals, which are upon the right

bank: after half a mile the navigation is free, and in mid-channel the

depth is not less than seven, eight, and nine feet. The river then trends

in a northerly direction for seven miles, without any sinuosity of

consequence. On the eastern bank, are two shoals; the passage is then on

the opposite side of the river, the depth of which is eight feet: beyond

these banks the course of the river trends to the eastward towards a low

point, upon which there is a solitary tree; an extensive bank fronts this

point, and the channel continues on the western shore, ten feet deep.

Here the river is a mile broad; it then increases its width, and forms

spacious bays on either side, that were not examined. To the South-East

is an opening, which may probably be an arm of the river; it was called

MOREAU INLET; it was not examined. Opposite to it is a sharp point,

fronted by a shoal, and the channel is on the eastern side of the river,

with thirteen feet water. Here the river widens and forms a basin, two

miles and a half wide: a little above this the river is blocked up by

shoals and islets (HEIRISSON ISLES) between which the depth is not more

than two or three feet, but afterwards deepens gradually from five to

fifteen feet: the banks of the river are then not more than one-third of

a mile wide, and then continue in a serpentine course, with a channel

from seven to ten feet deep, and free from shoals, as far as the French

boats examined it. The stream of the river ran very slowly, and winds

through a valley, one side of which is abrupt and precipitous, and when

it ceases to be so on one side, the heights immediately appear on the

other."

In front of this river is a group of islands, of which two only are of

large size, namely, ROTTNEST and BUACHE. We anchored on the north side of

the former, but broke the fluke, from the rocky nature of the bottom. On

the North-East side of the island, the anchorage is better, since it is

more sheltered. Rottnest Island is five miles long: it was discovered by

Vlaming in 1696. Its shores are very rocky and difficult to land upon,

particularly those of its northern side, which is fronted by rocks. Off

its north point there are some rocky islets, and on the north-east side a

convenient landing place in a sandy bay, where boats may put ashore with

great facility. The island is covered with a pine-like tree, which is

very good for fire-wood, but no fresh water was found in any part; the

French were equally unsuccessful in their search. The north-east point of

Rottnest Island is in 31 degrees 59 minutes 30 seconds South, and 115

degrees 31 minutes 12 seconds East; and the variation 4 degrees 50

minutes West.

BUACHE ISLAND, according to Captain De Freycinet's account (page 170) is

equally difficult to land upon; it is well wooded, but destitute of fresh

water.

To the south of CAPE PERON is a long range of sandy coast, for seventy

miles, to GEOGRAPHE BAY, which is open and exposed to the northward and

north-west; its western head is formed by Cape Naturaliste, a rocky

point, in latitude 33 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114

degrees 57 minutes 53 seconds, beyond which the coast extends to the

southward, without any bays to Cape Leeuwin. Off the cape is Naturaliste

Reef, in latitude 33 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees 59

minutes 8 seconds; it was seen by the French expedition. The land is here

of a moderate height, but of level aspect. There is a remarkable patch of

bare sand, in latitude 34 degrees 12 minutes, and longitude 114 degrees

57 minutes. It is the Tache blanche remarquable of De Freycinet's chart.

It lies about seven miles from the south extreme of the island.

...

APPENDIX A. SECTION 6.

OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER UPON THE SOUTH COAST. DIRECTIONS FOR KING GEORGE

THE THIRD'S SOUND, AND HYDROGRAPHICAL REMARKS RELATING TO BASS STRAIT.

SOUTH COAST.

Between the meridians of Cape Leeuwin and Bass Strait, the weather is

generally very unsettled and tempestuous; and, at certain seasons, very

much against a ship making the western passage from Port Jackson, which

is by passing through Bass Strait, and along the south coast; but it so

happens that at the time when ships cannot proceed through Torres Strait,

by reason of the Westerly Monsoon, namely, from the month of December to

that of March, easterly winds prevail upon the south coast, and are more

regular and strong in that space between the land and the parallel of

Bass Strait.* I have been told that the south-westerly gales that

sometimes occur during that season, seldom, if ever, blow home upon the

coast; and that when they do reach the land, they partake more of the

character of the sea breeze; be that as it may, a ship steering to the

westward should keep to the north of 40 degrees, in order to benefit by

the regularity of the wind, which to the south of that parallel generally

blows from some western quarter. From April to October the westerly gales

are very constant, and veer between South by West and North by East; but,

in the months of June and July, seldom veer to the southward of

South-West or northward of North-West; they are then accompanied by a

deep and heavy sea. The wind, in the summer season, generally revolves

with the sun, and, as the atmosphere becomes more dense, veers to the

South-East, with fine weather.

(*Footnote. Horsburgh volume 2 page 506.)

The marine barometer is here of considerable importance, as its rise

always precedes a south-east wind, and its fall a change from the

North-West; it seldom, however, stands lower than twenty-nine and a half

inches. The currents generally set to the north, and seldom run with any

velocity either to the east or west. A ship steering along this coast to

the eastward, bound to Port Jackson through Torres Strait, should steer

upon the parallel of 41 degrees, to avoid being thrown into the bight to

the west of Cape Northumberland, where with a South-East wind, that would

otherwise be fair for carrying her through Bass Strait, she would be

detained probably a week.

Upon making Van Diemen's Land, she is ready for either a northerly or a

southerly wind; since, with the former, she can round Van Diemen's Land,

without suffering much detention, or materially lengthening her voyage.

KING GEORGE THE THIRD'S SOUND was discovered by Captain Vancouver in the

year 1791, on his celebrated voyage to the North-west Coast of America.

It offers an excellent resort for vessels, and is convenient for all the

purposes of refitting, wooding, and watering. The natives are friendly;

the banks of Oyster Harbour afford a large abundance of oysters and other

shell-fish, and the harbours and rivers are well-stocked with fish and

birds.

There are many convenient anchorages in the sound; the best place for a

large ship, when it is necessary to refit the rigging at the same time

that she is completing her wood and water, is PRINCESS ROYAL HARBOUR; but

for a small vessel, not drawing more than eleven feet, OYSTER HARBOUR is

preferable, because she is secured to within one hundred yards of the

shore, and therefore better situated for the protection of her people at

their occupations from the natives, who are numerous, and will daily

visit them. But, for a ship only wanting fuel and water, there is a sandy

bay in the south-west corner of the sound, in which two or three streams

of excellent water run into the sea over the sand, from which a ship

might complete her hold in a day or two, by digging a well to collect it.

Wood may also be procured at this place, but not of so large a size, or

perhaps of so good a quality as at other parts. This bay is readily

found, by its being the first to the westward of a rocky point, that

projects from some remarkable bare sand hillocks, as also from its being

the second sandy beach to the westward of the low flat rocky islet at the

back of Seal Island.

The anchorage is good, being a bottom of sand and weeds, and is

sufficiently protected from easterly winds by BREAKSEA and MICHAELMAS

ISLANDS. The anchorage between SEAL ISLAND and the first sandy beach to

the westward of BALD HEAD, with the low flat rocky islet bearing west, in

six or seven fathoms sand and weeds, should be preferred during the

summer months; for the easterly winds then prevail, and sometimes blow

strong, even as late as March; the anchorage is landlocked, excepting in

the direction of East by North, the only quarter to which it is exposed,

and even in that direction the angle subtending the sea horizon is not

greater than ten degrees of the circle, which is of insignificant

consequence.

There is no water nearer to this anchorage than in the sandy bay above

mentioned, but the distance is trifling for a ship that can send boats

with men enough to protect themselves while employed in filling the

casks, for notwithstanding the friendly communication we have had with

the inhabitants of this sound, they are not to be trusted, unless their

character is different from the rest of their countrymen that we have

seen.

Water is procured at Princess Royal and Oyster Harbours by digging holes

at the edge of the sand under the hills; but, at the latter place, the

stream that we used outside the bar affords plenty, of excellent quality,

without the trouble of digging.

Over the bar of Oyster Harbour there is not more than ten and a half feet

at low water, and in the neaps twelve feet at high water; but it is

likely that, at spring-tides, there may be fourteen feet, or perhaps more

if the wind is blowing into the harbour; but during the springs high

water always takes place at night, and it would not, therefore, be

prudent to attempt to pass the bar at that time.

A vessel intending to go to Oyster Harbour should anchor off the sandy

beach immediately to the eastward of the entrance, that is, between the

breakers off the point and the bar, in three fathoms sand, bringing the

summit of Green Island, in the harbour, on with the extremity of the

bushes of the west point of entrance, and the highest part of Breaksea

Island in a line with the outer point of the bay: a boat should then be

sent to sound the bar. The mark for the deepest part is when the western

summit of some flat-topped land, at the back of Oyster Harbour, is a

little open of the rocks off the east side of the entrance.

After the bar is passed, the channel is deepest when the centre of the

flat land is kept midway between the points of entrance, avoiding a spit

of rocks that projects from the rocky point at the west end of the

watering beach. The strongest winds are from the westward, and therefore

bower anchors should be placed to the south-west and north-west: warps

and the stream cable will be sufficient to secure her from easterly

winds, as the hills rise immediately over the vessel on that shore. If

the run of water outside the bar should fail, holes may be dug at the

edge of the grass, about three feet deep, which will yield a sufficient

quantity in two or three days for any vessel that can pass over it.

The flood-tide in the entrance generally ran sixteen hours, and ebbed

eight hours. High water at full and change took place at 10 hours 10

minutes at night; but on the bar the rise and fall was very irregular,

and a vessel going in should pay great attention to the depth, if her

draught is more than ten feet, for it sometimes rises suddenly two feet.

The spring-tides take place about the third or fourth day after new or

full moon. The variation here is about 7 degrees East. The situation of

Seal Island, from Captain Flinders' observations, is in latitude 35

degrees 4 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 117 degrees 58 minutes 7

seconds.

A small island was reported in the Sydney Gazette to have been seen in

latitude 36 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 127 degrees 2 minutes East;

but as the account says, that Kangaroo Island was seen the same day,

which is not less than one hundred and fifty leagues from the above

position, it appears too vague to be correct. (See Horsburgh Supp. page

32.)

BLACK PYRAMID, off the north-west end of Van Diemen's Land, in Bass

Strait, is situated about 4 minutes too much to the southward on Captain

Flinders' chart.

BELL'S ROCK. The following account of a rock, seen by Mr. Bell, the

Commander of the ship Minerva, on her outward-bound passage to New South

Wales, appeared in a Sydney (New South Wales) Gazette, of the 16th of

December, 1824.

"On the 14th of November the Minerva very narrowly escaped striking on a

rock, in the fairway of the west entrance to Bass Strait, on the south

side of King's Island. Reid's rocks bearing North six miles, and the

Black Pyramid East-South-East: from this situation the danger was about

half a mile off (to the southward); but as the water broke only at

intervals of three or four minutes, although the swell was very heavy, it

is probable there may be sufficient depth of water to carry a ship over

it. An indifferent observation made the latitude of the ship at the time

40 degrees 26 minutes."

In M. De Freycinet's chart of Bass Strait, some rocky islets are placed

forty miles east of Sea-Elephant Bay. I did not succeed in finding them,

although the Mermaid sailed close to their position. (See volume 1.)

The PYRAMID, at the east end of Bass Strait, is placed five miles too

much to the northward: its true situation is in latitude 39 degrees 52

minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 147 degrees 11 minutes 30 seconds.

A reef of rocks were seen by Lieutenant John Lamb, R.N., off Cape Albany

Otway. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 499.)

There appears to be a considerable difference in the positions assigned

to ALBATROSS ISLAND, by the French expedition and Captain Flinders; the

former made the difference between the meridian of Albatross Island, and

that of the rock in Sea-Elephant Bay, 24 minutes 45 seconds; whilst by

the latter it is 32 minutes 30 seconds. But as Captain Flinders only saw

the north end of KING'S ISLAND, the error seems to originate in his

having laid down its eastern side from other authorities, for his

difference of longitude between its north-west point and the centre of

Albatross Island only differs 2 minutes 30 seconds from the French, who

surveyed that island with great care.

Several sunken rocks have been discovered from time to time near the

north end of GREAT ISLAND, so that ships, bound through Bass Strait to

the eastward, should not pass within Craggy Island without using great

caution. The best passage is on the south side of Kent's Group, between

it and the rocky islet (WRIGHT'S ROCK) to the south-east.

In a line between the above rocky islet and Craggy Island, and about two

miles from the former, is a reef with two small rocks upon it. (See

Horsburgh Supp. page 32.)

There are some considerable errors in Captain Flinders' chart of Van

Diemen's Land, with respect to the latitudes of the South-west Cape, the

Mewstone, the South cape, and the land between them. The first is laid

down 8 minutes too much to the North 30 degrees West (true) and the other

places in proportion. The corrected situations are given in the second

volume of this work.

...

APPENDIX A. SECTION 7.

DESCRIPTION OF THE SHOALS AND REEFS IN THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE COASTS OF

AUSTRALIA.

REEFS, EAST COAST.

ELIZABETH'S REEF (see Horsburgh's Supp. page 52) in latitude 30 degrees 5

minutes, and longitude 159 degrees, was discovered by the ships Claudine

and Marquis of Hastings, on the 16th of May, 1820. Within two cables'

length of the reef, they found fourteen fathoms; at a quarter of a mile

off the depth was twenty-five fathoms, but beyond that the bottom was not

reached. It is about three miles in circuit, with deep water in the

centre: the edge is covered, but some straggling rocky lumps show at

intervals above the surface of the water. The east side of the reef

extends about North-North-East and South-South-West for one mile, but the

greatest extent seemed to be West-North-West and East-South-East.

MIDDLETON'S SHOAL is in latitude 29 degrees 14 minutes, and longitude 158

degrees 53 minutes. (See Horsburgh volume 2 page 508.)

CATO'S BANK is in latitude 23 degrees 6 minutes, and longitude 155

degrees 23 minutes. (Flinders volume 2 page 298 and Horsburgh volume 2

page 509.)

WRECK REEF is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes 23 seconds, and longitude

155 degrees 18 minutes 50 seconds. (Flinders volume 2 page 330 and

Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)

CARNS, or MID-DAY REEF, was discovered by Mr. Carns, the master of the

ship Neptune, on the 21st of June, 1818, having taken a departure the day

before from Sandy Cape. It extends east and west for a considerable

distance: the ship passed round the western extremity at two miles off,

and found its bearing from Sandy Cape to be North 21 degrees East, one

hundred and seventy-six miles, and to be in latitude 21 degrees 58

minutes, and longitude 154 degrees 20 minutes. Its eastern limit was not

seen: it consists of a string of sandbanks and rocks, from five to twenty

feet high, with passages between them. (Horsburgh Supp. page 35.)

SIR JAMES SAUMAREZ' SHOAL was seen by Mr. Lihou; it is in latitude 21

degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 153 degrees 46 minutes by chronometer,

which was found correct on making Sandy Cape a day or two afterwards.

There is reason to suppose that many other reefs exist to the North-West

of this position.

KENN'S REEF, discovered by Mr. Alexander Kenn, Master of the ship William

Shand, on her passage from Sydney to Batavia, extends in the direction of

North West by North 1/2 North for ten miles, and is composed of sand and

rocks, some of which, at the south end, were six or eight feet out of the

water: it is six miles broad; the centre of the edge (? north) is in

latitude 21 degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 155 degrees 49 minutes (by

chronometer and lunars): it was found to bear South 67 degrees West, six

miles from Bird Islet, of Wreck Reef.

BOOBY and BELLONA SHOALS. In the neighbourhood of these reefs, Lieutenant

John Lamb, R.N., Commander of the ship Baring, was embarrassed for three

days, in which interval he was sounding in between nineteen and

forty-five fathoms, and frequently passed shoal parts, upon which the sea

was breaking. The limits assigned by this officer to the extent of the

rocky ground, are the parallels of 20 degrees 40 minutes, and 21 degrees

50 minutes, and the meridians of 158 degrees 15 minutes and 159 degrees

30 minutes. A sandy islet was also seen by him, surrounded by a chain of

rocks in 21 degrees 24 1/2 minutes South, and 158 degrees 30 minutes

East. The ship Minerva also struck soundings in eight fathoms, with the

appearance of shoaler water to the South-West; this last danger is in a

line between the two shoals in about longitude 159 degrees 20 minutes.

(See Horsburgh Supp. page 35.)

BAMPTON'S SHOAL is laid down in the shape of a horse-shoe, of not less

than forty-five miles in extent; on the north-east end are two islets

with trees. The AVON ISLES are probably near its south-west extremity:

they were seen by Mr. Sumner, Master of the ship Avon, September 18,

1823; and are described by him as being three-quarters of a mile in

circumference, twenty feet high, and the sea between them twenty fathoms

deep. At four miles North East by North from them the vessel sounded in

twelve fathoms, and at the same time saw a reef ten or fifteen miles to

the South-East, with deep water between it and the islets. A boat landed

on the south-westernmost islet, and found it inhabited only by birds, but

clothed with shrubs and wild grapes. By observation, these islands were

found to lie in latitude 19 degrees 40 minutes, and longitude 158 degrees

6 minutes.

A reef is laid down in M. Krusenstern's Atlas of the Pacific Ocean (1824)

in latitude 17 degrees, and longitude 156 degrees, and is there called

MELLISH REEF.

A REEF was seen by the ship FREDERICK, the north-east extremity of which

is laid down in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 150 degrees

32 minutes; it is of semi-circular shape, and extends as far south as 21

degrees 2 minutes, and appears to be nearly twenty miles wide.

VINE'S HORSE-SHOE SHOAL; its northernmost end is in latitude 20 degrees 5

minutes, and longitude 151 degrees 50 minutes: it presents its convex, or

outer edge, to the Southward, and extends as far as fifteen miles to the

South and East.

DIANA'S BANK is placed in latitude 15 degrees 38 minutes, and longitude

150 degrees 28 minutes. (Horsburgh volume 2 page 509.)

BETWEEN the parallels of 16 degrees 50 minutes and 17 degrees 45 minutes,

and the meridians of 150 degrees 30 minutes and 152 degrees 30 minutes,

there are several very extensive reefs, various parts of which have been

seen, according to the following accounts.

Lieutenant Vine saw a DRY BANK in latitude 17 degrees 46 minutes, and

longitude 151 degrees 40 minutes. See the account of the shoal described

by M. Tregrosse.

Mr. Brodie, Commander of the brig Alert, in October, 1817, saw A REEF

extending for a considerable distance in a North-East and South-West

direction. The Alert ran along the reef for twenty-five miles: about the

centre Mr. Brodie saw two sand islets in latitude 17 degrees 2 minutes,

and longitude 151 degrees 49 minutes.

LIHOU'S SHOAL, probably a part of the above reefs seen by Lieutenant Vine

and from the Alert, lies in latitude 17 degrees 25 minutes, and longitude

151 degrees 45 minutes: it is forty-six miles in length, and lies

North-North-East and South-South-West.

A very extensive RANGE OF SHOALS and ISLETS was seen by M. Tregrosse, of

the French brig Les Trois Freres, in company with the brig Jessie, in

1821, according to the subjoined account.

On the 19th June, the two brigs in company fell in with a range of reefs,

terminated to the eastward by two sandy islets, the easternmost of which

is in 151 degrees 47 minutes (149 degrees 27 minutes East of Paris); the

vessels hauled to the wind immediately, but finding they could not pass

to windward, bore up, and ran along the shoal from eight a.m. to four

p.m., at the distance of a league and a half. Altogether they counted

seven islets, three of which were covered with shrubs, and the whole

connected by a reef, on the edge of which the sea broke heavily: they

were called GOVERNOR FARQUHAR'S GROUP: the westernmost islet is in 17

degrees 39 minutes, and 151 degrees 27 minutes (149 degrees 7 minutes

East of Paris) and appeared to terminate the group. As it was near

sunset, the vessels hauled to the wind for the night, and at daylight

bore up on a north course: soon afterwards they saw an islet

West-North-West; they, however, continued to steer North until eight

o'clock, and then, having run nine miles, saw another island

North-North-East. On attempting to steer between the isles, they were

found to be connected, and having sounded in eleven fathoms, the vessels

bore up, and steered between the westernmost islet and two extensive

reefs, through a passage five or six miles wide, that appeared to be

clear.

The westernmost islet is in 17 degrees 42 minutes South, and 150 degrees

43 minutes East (148 degrees 23 minutes East of Paris) and the

westernmost reef, in 17 degrees 44 minutes South, and 150 degrees 32

minutes East (148 degrees 12 minutes East of Paris). A space of ten or

twelve leagues between Governor Farquhar's Group and that seen the

preceding day was passed in the night, and probably may contain other

reefs. The last group was named TREGROSSE'S ISLETS.

NORTH COAST.

The ALERT struck on a shoal to the westward of Torres Strait in 1817; it

seemed to be about two hundred fathoms in length, and about fifty yards

broad: it is in latitude 9 degrees 52 minutes, and longitude 140 degrees

50 minutes.

In the vicinity of Cape Van Diemen there are many submarine coral banks,

that are not yet shoal enough to be called reefs; that which Captain

Flinders saw, and sounded upon in seven fathoms, lies in 9 degrees 56

minutes latitude, and 129 degrees 28 minutes longitude. The Alert also

passed over a shoal patch with nine fathoms in 10 degrees 1 minute South,

and 129 degrees 8 minutes East.

NORTH-WEST COAST.

SAHUL BANK is but very imperfectly known, and its extent by no means so

large as is laid down upon the chart. In that interval, however, there

are probably many reefs, which have been occasionally seen. Captain

Heywood saw a dry part in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes and longitude

124 degrees 10 minutes, and there are shoal soundings in crossing it on

the following parts, namely:

COLUMN 1: SOUNDINGS OVER CORAL REEF IN FATHOMS.

COLUMN 2: LATITUDE.

COLUMN 3: LONGITUDE.

12 : 11 degrees 21 minutes : 125 degrees 23 minutes.

16 : 11 degrees 10 minutes : 125 degrees 27 minutes.

12 : 11 degrees 7 minutes : 125 degrees 30 minutes.

15 : 10 degrees 57 minutes : 125 degrees 34 minutes.

All of which are detached and separated by deep water. (See Horsburgh

volume 1 page 103.)

CARTIER ISLAND, seen in 1800 by the ship Cartier, is a dry sand bank

surrounded by a shoal extending for four miles to the northward. It is in

12 degrees 29 minutes South, and 123 degrees 56 minutes East, by

chronometer.

Captain Heywood in 1801 saw the following reefs. The centre of one in

latitude 12 degrees 48 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 25 minutes; and

the other in 13 degrees 29 minutes, and 124 degrees 5 minutes.

HIBERNIA SHOAL, seen by Mr. Samuel Ashmore, Commander of the ship

Hibernia, consists of two small sandbanks in the centre of a shoal, four

miles in extent, lying in an east and west direction. It is in latitude

11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 123 degrees 28 minutes, by

chronometers.

Mr. Ashmore also saw another shoal in 1811, the particulars of which are

detailed in the following letter.

"The north-east end of the shoal, fell in with on the 11th June, 1811, by

a good noon observation, is in 12 degrees 11 minutes South, longitude by

chronometer 122 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds (allowing the south head of

Port Jackson to be in 151 degrees 25 minutes 25 seconds). To the westward

of the barrier of black rocks, that presented themselves to our view,

were several sandbanks, the highest of which, on the east end, appeared

to have some vegetation: the rocks in general were six or eight feet

above the water and the surf broke violently on the North-East and

South-East points in view. The shoal trends in a West by North direction

for six or seven miles," It is distinguished on the chart by the name of

ASHMORE'S SHOAL.

SCOTT'S REEF (see Horsburgh volume 1 page 102) was discovered by Captain

Heywood, R.N., in 1811: the north-west end is in latitude 13 degrees 52

1/2, and longitude 121 degrees 59 minutes; thence it extends South 16

degrees East for eighteen or nineteen miles to the north-east point, in

latitude 14 degrees 1 minute, and longitude 122 degrees 16 minutes; the

south extent was not ascertained. It is ninety-seven miles due East from

the situation assigned to Dampier's Rocks. The Cartier also struck upon a

shoal hereabouts, and Captain Horsburgh seems to think that there is

little doubt of Scott's Reef being the same that Dampier saw, as well as

that on which the Cartier struck.