represented by a few skilful embroideries done on and with fine
linen, muslin and suchlike, which are somewhat similar in appearance
to lace fabrics of Mechlin design."--(A. S. Cole.)
[738] "The lace fabric in North Sleswick in 1840 was divided into two
districts--that of Tönder and Lygum Kloster on the western coasts,
and that of Haderslaben and Apenraade on the east. The quality of
the lace from these last localities is so bad that no Copenhagen
dealers will have it in their shops."--_Report of the Royal
Sleswick-Holstein Government._ 1840.
[739] Mr. Jens Wulff, an eminent lace-dealer, Knight of the Danebrog, who
has made great exertions to revive the lace industry in Denmark.
[740] Tönder lace was celebrated for its durability, the best flax or silk
thread only being used.
[741] "A lace-maker earns from 3½d. to 4½d. per day of sixteen
hours."--_Rawert's Report._ 1848.
[742] The Tönder lace-traders enjoy the privilege of offering their wares
for sale all over Denmark without a license (concession), a
privilege extended to no other industry.
[743] The early perfection of Bridget herself in this employment, if we
may credit the chronicle of the Abbess Margaretha, 1440-46, may be
ascribed to a miraculous origin.
When, at the age of twelve, she was employed at her knitted
lace-work, a fear came over her that she should not finish her work
creditably to herself, and in her anxiety she raised her heart
above. As her aunt came into the chamber she beheld an unknown
maiden sitting opposite to her niece, and aiding her in her task;
she vanished immediately, and when the aunt asked Bridget who had
helped her she know nothing about it, and assured her relation she
had seen no one.
All were astonished at the fineness and perfection of the work, and
kept the lace as of miraculous origin.
[744] _Wadstena Past and Present_ (Förr och Nu).
[745] The letter is dated March 20th, 1544.
[746] In the detailed account of the trousseau furnished to his daughter,
there is no mention of lace; but the author of _One Year in Sweden_
has seen the body of his little granddaughter, the Princess
Isabella, daughter of John III., as it lies in the vault of
Strengnäs, the child's dress and shoes literally covered with gold
and silver lace of a Gothic pattern, fresh and untarnished as though
made yesterday.
[747] In the Victoria and Albert Museum there is a collection of Norwegian
cut-work of the eighteenth century.
[748] Weber. _Bilberbuch._
Leipzig, 1746. _Handbok for unga Fruntimmer_, by Ekenmark.
Stockholm, 1826-28.
[749] Some are twice the width of Fig. 117.
[750] For this information, with a collection of specimens, the author has
to thank Madame Petre of Gefle.
[751] The Russian bobbins are interesting by reason of their archaic
simplicity. Lacking any trace of decoration, whether suggested by
sentimental fancy or artistic taste, they are purely utilitarian,
mere sticks of wood, more or less straight and smooth, and six or
seven inches long.
[752] A depôt has been opened in London, where Russian laces and
embroidery of all kinds are shown.
[753] _Rot. Parl. 37 Edw. III._ Printed. P. 278, Col. 2, No. 26.
[754] See her monument in Westminster Abbey.--Sandford's _Genealogical
History_.
[755] "Blanche, Duchess of Lancaster, wife of John of Gaunt, wears a
quilted silk cap with a three-pointed border of broad lace network."
(Sandford. St. Paul's monument, after Dugdale.) "Elizabeth, Duchess
of Exeter, died 1425 (Sandford, p. 259), wore also a caul of network
with a needlework edging."
[756] In the Statute 2 Rich. II. = 1378, merchant strangers are allowed to
sell in gross and in retail "gold wire or silver wire" and other
such small ware. Neither in this nor in the Treaty 13 Rich. II. =
1390, between England, the Count of Flanders, and "les bonnes Gentz
des Trois bonnes villes de Flandres Gand, Brugges et Ipre" (see
Rymer), is there any mention of lace, which, even if fabricated, was
of too little importance as an article of commerce to deserve
mention save as other "small wares."
[757] Pins not yet being in common use, any lace would be called "work of
the needle."
[758] 3 Edw. IV., cap. iv.
[759] "1463. John Barett bequeaths to 'My Lady Walgrave, my musk ball of
gold with [=p]le and lace.
"'Item, to John Eden, my o gr. of tawny silk with poynts of needle
work--_opus punctatum_.'"--_Bury Wills and Inventories._
[760] Bib. Harl. 2,320.
[761] Such as "Lace Bascon, Lace endented, Lace bordred on both syde, yn o
syde, pykke Lace bordred, Lace Condrak, Lace Dawns, Lace Piol, Lace
covert, Lace coverte doble, Lace compon coverte, Lace maskel, Lace
cheyne brode, Las Cheveron, Lace Oundé, Grene dorge, Lace for
Hattys," etc.
Another MS. of directions for making these same named laces is in
the possession of the Vicar of Ipsden, Oxfordshire, and has been
examined by the author through the kindness of Mr. W. Twopenny.
[762] Bows, loops.
[763] Additional MSS. No. 6,293, small quarto, ff. 38. It contains
instructions for making various laces, letters and "edges," such as
"diamond stiff, fly, cross, long S, figure of 8, spider, hart,"
etc., and at the end:--
"Heare may you see in Letters New
The Love of her that honoreth you.
My love is this,
Presented is
The Love I owe
I cannot showe,
The fall of Kings
Confusion bringes
Not the vallyou but the Love
When this you see
Remember me."
In the British Museum (Lansdowne Roll, No. 22) is a third MS. on the
same subject, a parchment roll written about the time of Charles I.,
containing rules and directions for executing various kinds of
sampler-work, to be wrought in letters, etc., by means of coloured
strings or bows. It has a sort of title in these words, "To know the
use of this Booke it is two folkes worke," meaning that the works
are to be done by two persons.
Probably of this work was the "Brede (braid) of divers colours,
woven by Four Ladies," the subject of some verses by Waller
beginning:--
"Twice twenty slender Virgins' Fingers twine
This curious web, where all their fancies shine.
As Nature them, so they this shade have wrought,
Soft as their Hands, and various as their Thoughts," etc.
[764] 1 Rich. III. = 1483. Act XII.
[765] _Privy Purse Expenses of Elizabeth of York,_ and _Wardrobe Accounts
of King Edward IV._, by Sir H. Nicolas.
[766] 1 Rich. III. renews 3 Edw. IV. for ten years, and that of Richard is
continued by 19 Henry VII. for twenty years more.
[767] 4 Hen. VII. = 1488-9.
[768] P.R.O. The same Warrant contains an order to deliver "for the use
and wearing of our right dere daughter the Lady Mary," together with
a black velvet gown, scarlet petticoat, etc., "a nounce of lace for
her kyrtel," and a thousand "pynnes."
[769] In the list of the late King Henry's plate, made 1543, we have some
curious entries, in which the term lace appears:--
"Item, oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnation Roobe
knitt with a knott in the lefte shoulder and bare hedid with her
heere rowlid up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde.
"Item, oone picture of a woman made of erthe with a carnac[=o]n
garment after the Inglishe tyer and bareheddid with her heare rowled
up with a white lace sett in a boxe of wodde."--P. R. O.
[770] 19 Hen. VII. = 1504.
[771] Sir H. Nicolas.
[772] Statute 1 Hen. VIII. = 1509-10. An act agaynst wearing of costly
Apparell, and again, 6 Hen. VIII. = 1514-15.
"Gard, to trim with lace."--Cotgrave.
"No less than crimson velvet did him grace,
All garded and regarded with gold lace."--Samuel Rowlands, _A Pair
of Spy-Knaves._
"I do forsake these 'broidered gardes,
And all the fashions new."--_The Queen in King Cambisis_, circ.
1615.
[774] Under forfeiture of the same shirt and a fine of 40 shillings.
[775] 7 Hen. VIII. = 1515-16.--"Thacte of Apparell."
[776] 24 Hen. VIII. = 1532-33.--"An Act for Reformation of excess in
Apparel."
[777] In 1539.
[778] Lisle. _Corr._ Vol. i., p. 64. P.R.O. Lord Lisle was Governor of
Calais, whence the letter is dated.
Honor. Lylle to Madame Antoinette
de Sevenges, à Dunkerke.
"Madame,--Je ne vous eusse vollu envoier ceste demi dousaine pour
changier nestoit que tous celles que menvoiez dernierement sont trop
larges, et une dousaine estoit de cestuy ouvrage dont jestis
esmerveillé, veu que je vous avois escript que menvoissiez de
louvrage aux lozenges, vous priant que la demy dousaine que
menvoierez pour ceste demy dousaine soient du dict ouvrage de
lozenge, et quil soient plus estroictes mesmement par devant
nonobstant que lexemple est au contraire."
[779] Among the marriage clothes of Mary Neville, who espoused George
Clifton, 1536, is:--
"A neyge of perle, £1 4s. 0d."
In the pictures, at Hampton Court Palace, of Queens Mary and
Elizabeth, and another of Francis II., all as children, their ruffs
are edged with a very narrow purl.
[780] 1538. Lisle. _Corr._ (P.R.O.)
[781] See Note 776.
[782] Privy Purse Ex. Hen. VIII. 1529-32. Sir H. Nicolas.
[783] Father of Lord Burleigh. There are other similar entries:--"8 pieces
of yellow lace, 9s. 4d." Also, "green silk lace."
1632, "green silk lace" occurs again, as trimming a pair of French
shoes in a "Bill of shoes for Sir Francis Windebank and
family."--State Papers Dom. Vol. 221. P.R.O.
[784] "Inv. of Hen. VIII. and 4 Edw. VI." Harl. MS. 1419, A and B.
[785] 38 Hen. VIII. = 1546. Rymer's _Foedera_. Vol. xv., p. 105.
[786] Harl. MS. 1419. _Passim._
[787] See Holbein's portraits.
[788] "The old cut-work cope."--Beaumont and Fletcher. _The Spanish
Curate._
[789] We read, too, of "3 kyrcheys y^t was given to the kyrk wash," large
as a woman's hood worn at a funeral, highly ornamented with the
needle by pious women, and given to be sold for the good of the
impoverished church, for which the churchwardens of St. Michael,
Spurr Gate, York, received the sum of 5s.
[790] 1 and 2 Ph. and Mary.
[791] "White work" appears also among Queen Elizabeth's New Year's
Gifts:--
"1578. Lady Ratcliff. A veil of white work, with spangles and small
bone lace of silver. A swete bag, being of changeable silk, with a
small bone lace of gold.
"1589. Lady Shandowes (Chandos). A cushion cloth of lawne wrought
with whitework of branches and trees, edged with bone work, wrought
with crowns."--Nichols' _Royal Progresses_.
[792] Roll of New Year's Gifts. 1556.
[793] Stowe, _Queen Mary_. An. 1554.
[794] It is not known when brass wire pins were first made in England, but
it must have been before 1543, in which year a Statute was passed
(35 Hen. VIII.) entitled, "An Act for the True Making of Pynnes," in
which the price is fixed not to exceed 6s. 8d. per 1,000. By an Act
of Rich. III. the importation of pins was prohibited. The early pins
were of boxwood, bone, bronze or silver. In 1347 (_Liber Garderobæ_,
12-16 Edw. III. P. R. O.) we have a charge for 12,000 pins for the
trousseau of Joanna, daughter of Edward III., betrothed to Peter the
Cruel. The young Princess probably escaped a miserable married life
by her decease of the black death at Bordeaux when on her way to
Castille.
The annual import of pins in the time of Elizabeth amounted to
£3,297.--State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol. viii. P. R. O.
In Eliz., Q. of Bohemia's Expenses, we find: "Dix mille espingles
dans un papier, 4 florins."--Ger. Corr. No. 41. P. R. O.
"In Holland pillow-lace is called Pinwork lace--Gespelde-werkte
kant."--_Sewell's Eng. and Dutch Dict._
[795] An elderly woman informed the author that she recollects in her
youth, when she learned to make Honiton point of an ancient teacher
of the parish, bone pins were still employed. They were in use until
a recent period, and renounced only on account of their costliness.
The author purchased of a Devonshire lace-maker one, bearing date
1829, with the name tatooed into the bone, the gift of some
long-forgotten youth to her grandmother. These bone or wood bobbins,
some ornamented with glass beads--the more ancient with silver let
in--are the calendar of a lace-worker's life. One records her first
appearance at a neighbouring fair or May meeting; a second was the
first gift of her good man, long cold in his grave; a third the
first prize brought home by her child from the dame school, and
proudly added to her mother's cushion: one and all, as she sits
weaving her threads, are memories of bygone days of hopes and fears,
of joys and sorrows; and, though many a sigh it calls forth, she
cherishes her well-worn cushion as an old friend, and works away,
her present labour lightened by the memory of the past.
[796] Surtees' _Wills and Inv._
"Hearing bone lace value 5s. 4d." is mentioned "in y^e shoppe of
John Johnston, of Darlington, merchant."
[797] 1578. "James Backhouse, of Kirby in Lonsdale. Bobbin lace, 6s. per
ounce."
1597. "John Farbeck, of Durham. In y^e Shoppe, 4 oz. & ½ of Bobbing
lace, 6s. 4d."--_Ibid._
"Bobbin" lace is noted in the Royal Inventories, but not so
frequently as "bone."
"Laqueo ... fact. super lez bobbins."--G. W. A. Eliz., 27 and 28. P.
R. O.
"Three peces teniar bobbin."--_Ibid._ Car. I., vi.
"One pece of bobin lace, 2s.," occurs frequently in the accounts of
Lord Compton, afterwards Earl of Northampton, Master of the Wardrobe
of Prince Charles.--Roll, 1622-23, Extraordinary Expenses, and
others. P. R. O.
[798] In the Ward. Acc. of his brother, Prince Henry, 1607, and the
Warrant to the G. Ward., on his sister the Princess Elizabeth's
marriage, 1612-13, "bone" lace is in endless quantities.
Bobbin lace appears invariably distinguished from bone lace, both
being mentioned in the same inventory. The author one day showed an
old Vandyke Italian edging to a Devonshire lace-worker, asking her
if she could make it. "I think I can," she answered; "it is bobbin
lace." On inquiring the distinction, she said: "Bobbin lace is made
with a coarse thread, and in its manufacture we use long bobbins
instead of the boxwood of ordinary size, which would not hold the
necessary quantity of this thread, though sufficient for the quality
used in making Honiton flowers and Trolly lace."--Mrs. Palliser.
[799] Randle Holme, in his enumeration of terms used in arts, gives: "Bone
lace, wrought with pegs."
The materials used for bobbins in Italy have been already mentioned.
[800] Lord Compton. "Extraordinary Expenses of the Wardrobe of K. Charles,
before and after he was King."--Roll, 1622-26. P. R. O.
[801] An. 1635.
[802] A miniature of Old Hilliard, now in the possession of his Grace the
Duke of Hamilton.
[803] 1614.
[804] Massinger. 1612.
[805] Beaumont and Fletcher.
[806] "The things you follow and make songs on now, should be sent to
knit, or sit down to bobbins or bone-lace."--_Tatler._
[807] "We destroy the symmetry of the human figure, and foolishly combine
to call off the eye from great and real beauties to childish gewgaw
ribbands and bone-lace."--_Spectator._
[808] It is used in Walpole's _New British Traveller_. 1784.
[809] Haliwell gives compas as "a circle; Anglo-Norman."
[810] Partlet, a small ruff or neck-band.
[811] "Eidem pro 4 pec' de opera Rhet' bon' florat' in forma oper' sciss'
ad 24s., £4 16s."--G. W. A. Eliz., 43 to 44.
1578-79. New Year's Gifts. Baroness Shandowes. "A vail of black
network flourished with flowers of silver and a small
bone-lace."--Nichols.
[812] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth Century.
[813] _Encyclopædia Britannica._ Art. _Costume._ Sixteenth century.
[814] Crown lace--so called from the pattern being worked on a succession
of crowns sometimes intermixed with acorns or roses. A relic of this
lace may still be found in the "faux galon" sold by the German Jews,
for the decoration of fancy dresses and theatrical purposes. It is
frequently mentioned. We have:--
"12 yards laquei, called crown lace of black gold and silk."--G. W.
A. Eliz. 4 & 5.
"18 yards crown lace purled with one wreath on one side."--_Ibid._ 5
& 6.
[815] "11 virgis laquei Byas."--_Ibid._ 29 & 30.
[816] Hemming and edging 8 yards of ruff of cambric with white lace called
hollow lace, and various entries of Spanish lace, Fringe, Black
chain, Diamond, knotted, hollow, and others, are scattered through
the earlier Wardrobe Accounts of Queen Elizabeth.
The accounts of the Keepers of the Great Wardrobe, which we shall
have occasion so frequently to cite, are now deposited in the Public
Record Office, to which place they were transferred from the Audit
Office in 1859. They extend from the 1 Elizabeth = 1558 to Oct. 10,
1781, and comprise 160 volumes, written in Latin until 1730-31, when
the account appears in English, and is continued so to the end.
1748-49 is the last account in which the items are given.
[817] Eliz. 30 & 31. Billament lace occurs both in the "shoppes" and
inventories of the day. Among the list of foreigners settled in the
City of London in 1571 (State Papers, Dom., Eliz. Vol 84. P.R.O.),
are: William Crutall, "useth the craft of making byllament lace";
Rich. Thomas, Dutch, "a worker of Billament lace."
In 1573 a country gentleman, by his will deposited in the
Prerogative Court of Canterbury (Brayley and Britton's _Graphic
Illustrations_), bequeaths: "To my son Tyble my short gown faced
with wolf skin and laid with Billements lace."
In John Johnston's shop we have: "3 doz. of velvet Billemunt lace,
12s." In that of John Farbeck, 9 yards of the same. (Surtees' _Wills
and Inv._) Widow Chapman of Newcastle's inventory, 1533, contains:
"One old cassock of broad cloth, with billements lace, 10s."
(_Ibid._)
[818] 95 dozen rich silver double diamond and cross laces occur also in
the _Extraordinary Expenses for Prince Charles's Journey to Spain_.
1623.--P. R. O.
[819] 1571. "In y^e Great Shop, 8 peces of 'waborne' lace, 16d."--_Mr.
John Wilkinson's Goods, of Newcastle, Merchant._
1580. "100 Gross and a half of 'waborne' lace."--_Inv. of Cuthbert
Ellyson._
1549. John de Tronch, Abbot of Kilmainham Priory, is condemned to
pay 100 marks fine for detaining 2 lbs. of Waborne thread, value
3s., and other articles, the property of W. Sacy.
[820] G. W. A. Eliz. 16 & 17.
[821] "Eidem pro 6 manuterg' de camerick operat' cum serico nigra
trustich," etc.--G. W. A. Eliz. 41 & 42, and, again, 44.
[822] 1572. Inventory of Thomas Swinburne of Ealingham, Esq.
"His Apparell."
"A wellwett cote layd with silver las.
"A satten doullet layd with silver las.
"A payr of wellwett sleeves layd with silver las."--Surtees'
_Wills and Inv._
[823] New Year's Gifts. Lady Mary Sidney. "A smock and two pillow beres of
cameryck wrought with black-work and edged with a broad bone-lace of
black sylke."
[824] "Eidem pro 6 caules alb' nodat opat' cu' le chainestich et ligat'
cu' tape de filo soror, ad 14s., 4l. 4s."--G. W. A. Eliz. 41 & 42.
Also in the last year of her reign (1602) we find:--
"Six fine net caules flourished with chaine stitch with sister's
thread."--Wardrobe Accounts. B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
[825] In 1583.
[826] G. W. A. Eliz. 38 & 39. We have it also on ruffs.
"Eidem pro 2 sutes de lez ruffs bon' de la lawne operat' in le laid
work et edged cum ten' bon' ad 70s. per pec', 7l."--G. W. A. Eliz.
43 & 44.
[827] G. W. A. Eliz., last year of her reign. Again--
1600. "Drawing and working with black silk drawne worke, five smocks
of fine holland cloth."--B. M. Add. MSS. No. 5751.
"These Holland smocks as white as snow,
And gorgets brave with drawn-work wrought."
--_Pleasant Quippes for Upstart Newfangled Gentlewomen._ 1596.
[828] As early as 1485 we have in the inventory of St. Mary-at-Hill, "An
altar cloth of diaper, garnished with 3 blue Kays (St. Peter's) at
each end." All the church linen seems to have been embroidered in
blue thread, and so appears to have been the smocks and other linen.
Jenkin, speaking of his sweetheart, says: "She gave me a shirt
collar, wrought over with no counterfeit stuff."
GEORGE: "What! was it gold?"
JENKIN: "Nay, 'twas better than gold."
GEORGE: "What was it?"
JENKIN: "Right Coventry blue."--_Pinner of Wakefield._ 1599.
"It was a simple napkin wrought with Coventry blue."--_Laugh and Lie
Downe, or the Worlde's Folly._ 1605.
"Though he perfume the table with rose cake or appropriate bone-lace
and Coventry blue," writes Stephens in his _Satirical Essays_. 1615.
In the inventory of Mary Stuart, taken at Fotheringay, after her
death, we have: "Furniture for a bedd of black velvet, garnished
with Bleue lace. In the care of Rallay, _alias_ Beauregard."
This blue lace is still to be found on baptismal garments which have
been preserved in old families on the Continent and in England.
[829] The widow of the famous clothier, called Jack of Newbury, is
described when a bride as "led to church between two boys with bride
laces and rosemary tied about their sleeves."
[830] "Tawdry. As Dr. Henshaw and Skinner suppose, of knots and ribbons,
bought at a fair held in St. Audrey's Chapel; fine, without grace or
elegance."--_Bailey's Dict._ 1764.
Southey (_Omniana._ Vol. i., p. 8) says:--
"It was formerly the custom in England for women to wear a necklace
of fine silk called Tawdry lace, from St. Audrey.
"She had in her youth been used to wear carcanets of jewels, and
being afterwards tormented with violent pains in the neck, was wont
to say, that Heaven, in his mercy, had thus punished her for her
love of vanity. She died of a swelling in her neck. Audry (the same
as Ethelrede) was daughter of King Anna, who founded the Abbey of
Ely."
Spenser in the _Shepherd's Calender_, has:--
"Bind your fillets faste
And gird in your waste
For more fineness with a tawdry lace;"
and in the _Faithful Shepherdess_ of Beaumont and Fletcher,
Amaryllis speaks of
"The primrose chaplet, tawdry lace and ring."
[831] A passage already quoted in _Much Ado about Nothing_ shows us that,
in Shakespeare's time, the term "to lace" was generally used as a
verb, denoting to decorate with trimming. Margaret, the tiring
woman, describes the Duchess of Milan's gown as of "Cloth o' gold,
and cuts, and laced with silver."
[832] _Much Ado about Nothing._
[833] New Year's Gifts of Mrs. Wyngfield, Lady Southwell, and Lady
Willoughby.--_Nichols' Royal Progresses._
[834] "Mrs. Edmonds. A cushion cloth of lawn cutwork like leaves, and a
few owes of silver."--New Year's Gifts.
"Eidem pro le edginge unius panni vocat' a quishion cloth de lawne
alb' operat' cum spaces de opere sciss' et pro viii. virg' de Laquei
alb' lat' operat' sup' oss' 33s. 4d."--G. W. A. Eliz. 31 & 32.
[835] "Mistress Twist, the Court laundress. Four toothcloths of Holland
wrought with black silk and edged with bone lace of silver and black
silk."--New Year's Gifts.
[836] "Lady Ratcliffe. A night coyf of white cutwork flourished with
silver and set with spangles."--_Ibid._
[837] "Cropson. A night coyf of cameryk cutwork and spangells, with a
forehead cloth, and a night border of cutwork with bone
lace."--_Ibid._ 1577-8.
[838] "Eidem pro emenda[=c] lavacione et starching unius par' corpor'
(stays) et manic' de lawne alb' bon' deorsum operat' in diversis
locis cum spaciis Lat' de operibus Italic' scis[=s] 20_sh._"--G. W.
A. Eliz. 26-27.
[839] _Ibid._
[840] _Ibid._ 28-29.
[841] G. W. A. Eliz. 29-30.
[842] _Ibid._ 35-36.
[843] _Ibid._ 43-44. "A round kyrtle of cutwork in lawne."--B. M. Add.
MSS. No. 5751.
[844] "One yard of double Italian cutwork a quarter of a yard wide, 55s.
4d."--G. W. A. Eliz. 33 and 34.
"Una virga de opere sciss' lat' de factura Italica, 26s.
8d."--_Ibid._ 29 & 30.
[845] "For one yard of double Flanders cutwork worked with Italian purl,
33s. 4d."--_Ibid._ 33 & 34.
[846] "3 suits of good lawn cutwork ruffs edged with good bone lace
'operat' super oss',' at 70s., 10l. 10s."--_Ibid._ 43 & 44.
[847] "7 virg' Tenie lat' operis acui, ad 6s. 8d., 46s. 8d."--_Ibid._
37-38.
[848] "Eidem pro 2 pectoral' de ope' sciss' fact' de Italic' et Flaundr'
purle, ad 46s."--_Ibid._ 42 & 43.
"Eidem pro 1 virg' de Tenie de opere acuo cum le purle Italic' de
cons' ope' acuo 20s."--G. W. A. Eliz. 40 & 41.
[849] Eliz. 44 = 1603.
[850] "3 yards broad needlework lace of Italy, with the purls of similar
work, at 50s. per yard, 8l. 15s."--_Ibid._ 41-42.
Bone lace varies in price from 40s. the dozen to 11s. 6d. the yard.
Needle-made lace from 6s. 8d. to 50s.--G. W. A. _Passim._
[851] Lace is always called "lacqueus" in the Gt. Wardrobe Accounts up to
1595-6, after which it is rendered "tænia." Both terms seem, like
our "lace" to have been equally applied to silk passements.