it is that the adage is so true. To us, whom civilization and the
natural fitness of things have raised so far above nature, it is a
matter of a striking character to see these heathens on their travels.
They are burdened with absolutely nothing except a club or bow and
arrows in their hands. Their dress is but a slight remove from the
original fig leaf of the garden of Eden, and they carry neither bedding
nor food. They sleep anywhere and eat what they can get. Their endurance
in the matter of food too is extraordinary, whether they eat or whether
they eat not does not seem to affect them, and in this way they beat us
all to fits on the march. These Bushmen tell me they prefer making a
journey in rain for it is cooler, and the only change of raiment they
need at the end is to dry nature’s clothing before a fire. They are a
very hardy race, I suppose from being inured to hardship all their
lives.
I missed poor blind Sulu from school to-day, and on enquiring for him
was told that his pet pig, whose tusks are getting long and very sharp,
importuned him beyond bearing, and that in kicking out to get rid of him
the tusk ran into his foot and almost right through it. Poor old fellow,
I am going by and bye to see what I can do to administer comfort to him.
Arthur too is very much out of sorts, and could not put in an appearance
at school to-day. For some months he has suffered from lassitude and
weakness, and has been troubled with nasty sores. Fortunately I have a
bottle of Hop Bitters with me, the effect of which I am going to try
with him. Fancy the popularity of this wonderful tonic when it even
finds its way to these distant islands! I have known it used with very
beneficial results, and I hope Arthur may improve under its influence
and strengthening properties.
_Friday, July 30th._--A somewhat idle and prurient curiosity led me with
some of our people to ‘Uta’ this morning to witness a sort of masked
ball about which I had heard a great deal, and which was supposed to be
something quite extraordinary. We started fairly early in the morning,
and arrived at the place after a long, hot, and fatiguing walk. The
ceremonies were not perfectly arranged when we got there, and we waited
a long, weary time. It was mainly through my urging that they began when
they did, and after all the affair was disappointing.
The initial performance was a song sung by four men to an accompaniment
beaten on bamboos, but that was by no means impressive. The females
during this performance advanced and squatted around the performers and
poor things were almost roasted alive under the blazing rays of the
midday sun. When the song was finished the maskers rushed out, 17 in
number with very curious and savage-looking head pieces, and petticoats
of long sago palm leaves reaching almost to the ground. They presented a
very weird and uncanny appearance certainly as they danced forth and
back and uttered their gruff “Ugh, ugh, ugh, ugh.” I do not wonder at
weak minded females and small children being very terrified of them. The
head pieces were decided works of art, and very well made. Thirteen were
almost entirely of the same make and pattern and are called “Rauwe,”
three were again somewhat of a different shape and fashion called
“Tamate,” and one very elongated and strangely devised mask also called
a ‘Tamate’ completed the list. When the dancing was over which was
called ‘Welu,’ the Rauwes rushed flying about all over the place, and
the wiser course was to keep out of their way. In former days I believe
they carried heavy sticks, or even clubs, and struck at anyone who
failed to get out of their way. Boys and females were the chief objects
of their attacks, and sometimes considerable injury resulted. Of course
if any one retaliated and gave blow for blow, a skrimmage of perhaps
serious and general nature resulted, and ended probably in lives being
sacrificed.
To-day these rough maskers carried clubs and long handled axes, and
nothing was feared from them. The tamates were much more quiet and
danced quietly about like so many kiwis (native New Zealand bird), and
molested no one. They represent a higher grade in the social scale and
their intentions are always pacific. For some days after the ceremony
they are allowed to sail about the country and take what they please in
the shape of food, &c. if it happens to come in their way, indeed I
believe the people put it out for them and render every assistance to
send them away full handed. The tamate mask has no eyehole, but the
rauwe head piece has every facility for observation to facilitate its
hilter skilter rush. The native idea of these things I believe is that
if anyone dies who has not paid for these masks, he is haunted by them
in the hereafter, at their places of departed spirits, “Banoi.” The
tamates protect the disembodied spirits and conduct them safely to their
final destination in Banoi. Moreover, I believe that those who die
without propitiating these tamates and rauwes by gifts of pigs and mats
are transformed into flying foxes, and adorn for ever the courts of an
ill-fated Banoi. When the ‘welu’ was over, great cakes of cooked food
were disgorged from their covering of leaves and distributed, the men
behind a very curious screen called “Bugoro” distributing to men, and
the women on one side of the village square distributing to women. The
busy and animated scene was often disturbed by one or more of the rauwes
rushing wildly about, and the women utterly regardless of food or
hospitality, tore hilter skilter in screams of terror to some place of
temporary security. It was now getting late, and as we had a journey
before us and the performance was virtually over, except the kava
drinking, we wished our friend good-bye and started for home, getting
here in time for dinner, both by the time of day and by the condition of
an appetite which had not been appeased since morning. On the whole I do
not think the ceremony was at all worth the labour it cost to witness,
and having seen it once, one would scarcely care to trouble about it a
second time. However, it has its due effect upon the natives of both
sexes, and it is looked upon by many as of paramount importance as
regards both the present time and the future. To the newly initiated it
gives certain social rights and privileges, but the strict observance
with many is a thing of the past. It has only to do with the males,
females may enjoy no special benefit from the practice except to assist
as ornamental observers, and to bring beast burdens of food for
distribution. What becomes of their poor souls hereafter is a matter for
no anxiety or consideration, indeed I suppose the doubt is as to their
possessing such things as souls at all, so that their final destination
can only be a matter of supreme indifference and of the most
insignificant importance. A hazy indefinite belief therefore these
people have in some hereafter, and they endeavour to make some provision
for it while they can, but they have no distinct form of religion, nor
any images to which they offer worship. They have some kind of
propitiatory sacrifice however of food and shell money, and whatever
prayer they have is made to the spirits of their ancestors. Almost
invariably a dying man calls to his father, and we have frequently
noticed that when a sick person arrives at this stage of illness, his
case is very bad indeed, if not hopeless. Yesterday as we were waiting
at the entrance to the village, the people called my attention to a
peculiar kind of red grass which had been chewed up, and the refuse
strewn about all over the path, and they told me that this was done by
the master of ceremonies to make the visitors take delight and interest
in the festivities, and to raise the wish in the minds of the
uninitiated to swell the ranks of those who had already taken the
initiatory steps in social rank. Like all natives of course these people
are utterly superstitious, and any little thing of a slightly
extraordinary nature serves to determine or deter their mode of action.
There is a certain class of persons among them who read these signs and
comment upon them, just as the ancient oracles, and these persons are
consulted in every matter of public or private interest. No one takes a
journey or engages in any matter without recourse to this oracle, but as
of old in case of failure, the matter is explained ambiguously.
Superstition indeed creeps into almost every concern of daily life, and
its effect upon one would be very wearying and irritating, except of
course that superior mindedness ought to condescend and bear with such
human frailties when one considers the education under which these poor
folks have been brought up from generation to generation. Much, I think,
of this weak mindedness is passing away under Christian regime, and more
and more I suppose will it disappear as the day breaks and the shadows
flee away.
_Saturday, July 31st._--A peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed that I
could not sleep even under a blanket. The people all experienced the
same cold, and they said it was because of the calmness of the night and
the heavy dew. Had there been a fire near, I could readily have got up
to sit over it. The nights here are generally cool, but last night was
absolutely cold. What shall I do when I go to England? This morning
however, it is supremely lovely, and the wind in the S.W. for a wonder,
for the S.E. Trades usually blow nine months out of the twelve. This
morning I tried a photograph, which I dare say will prove a failure,
from the extra care I took to prevent all mistakes. I only attempted
one, but I hope I shall gain courage and experience as I go on and be
able to reproduce some of these lovely views here. Of course every view
is shut in more or less by the density of the surrounding bush, but this
village has a considerable clearing and a good long vista for a
photograph. My first attempt was on the church with some natives in the
foreground, but the view will miss a great deal in a picture, owing to
the absence of the beautiful colouring. It seems the fashion now-a-days
here to build houses, and large parties to-day were busy thatching two
new ones. I went with Patrick, Arthur Huqe and some more of the boys to
Ruosi where we had a delicious bathe in the river, washed our clothes,
caught prawns which we cooked very ingeniously in a bamboo. The prawns
are put into the bamboo with water, and then placed on the fire with the
orifice slightly elevated. It soon starts boiling, and to prevent the
bamboo (always a green one) burning through it is constantly turned
round and round, and in a very short time the prawns come out cooked
red, and ready for eating. Cooked in salt water they are very nice, and
they are looked upon as an especial delicacy when eaten with cocoanut
cream. It is perfectly surprising what a number of dishes these natives
wot of, and how frequently they vary their menu. Here they are
especially good cooks, and I like most of their dishes very much. They
are all slightly indigestible, but that one somehow expects. In most
Melanesian islands the yam is the staple article of diet, but here the
taro has the preference, and is planted in larger quantities. The yam
likes a dry situation, but the kind of taro in common use here
flourishes in a damp soil, and this is prepared for it by a neat and
skilful system of irrigation.
While we were sitting there at Ruosi one of the men told me a curious
custom they have here. I knew him of old to be an habitual and heavy
kava drinker, now he told me he never drank it and had not for months.
It appears that persons who enjoy a certain rank can deny the use of
this beverage to any one they like, and they place a sort of ‘tabu’ over
the kava bowl, and this tabu is not taken off again until a pig or its
equivalent is paid. A short time ago kava drinking became so general in
the school as to impede the working of it, for teachers and scholars
drank alike. The boys and young men therefore met together and laid
mutual tabus upon each other, and for some time past very little kava
has been drunk by those attending, and no one of those on whom the tabu
was laid has chosen yet to take it off.
This same man told me another curious custom they have with respect to
revenge. If a man has a grudge against another and he wishes to kill
him, or if he wishes to kill someone as a set off against someone
belonging to him having been killed, he refuses to wash his hands until
such time as they can be washed with blood. He told me of three
brothers, Bushmen, who swore to kill a man apiece, the two younger
brothers have already performed their part of the contract, but the dirt
is still thick on the hands of the eldest, and he still means murder
when he can get the convenient opportunity. It does not matter much, I
believe, who the victim is as long as he has not many friends to
retaliate. Poor weak inoffensive mortals in this way often lose their
lives, innocent sacrifices to heathen brutalism and bloodthirstiness. We
came home in the cool of the most glorious evening, a strange contrast
in its peace and loveliness to the rage and horror of savage brutalism.
A quiet evening service and the song of melody seemed more in tune with
the scene without, and I trust that the Peace of God which passeth all
understanding may ever keep our hearts and minds in the knowledge and
love of God and of His Son Jesus Christ.
I gave notice last Sunday of Holy Communion to-morrow, and this evening
I held a Communicants’ class at which were present the two Arthurs and
Patrick. Anthony and Samuel are too far away to be able to attend. I
cannot but esteem it a high privilege and blessing to be enabled to
receive and dispense the Bread of Life here in this once heathen
village, and I pray that we may be strengthened and refreshed for our
work, and show forth God’s praise not only with our lips but in our
lives, and by giving up ourselves more fully to His service. May the
time too be hastened when some of these good people may be permitted to
partake of the visible tokens of redeeming love.
It is now late, and except for the singing of crickets, perfectly still,
fit prelude, I trust, to a peaceful Sabbath.
_Sunday, August 1st._--Another peculiarly cold night, so cold indeed
that I could not sleep although I had taken care to make proper
preparations against it. How these poor ill clad, blanketless people
fare I cannot make out, but no doubt they pile on the wood. It was most
perfectly calm all through the night, and this morning there was a very
heavy dew. The wind was blowing from some westerly quarter, and it has
continued there with some strength all the day. We began our day very
early with a Celebration of the Holy Communion. The two Arthurs,
Patrick, and myself made up the quorum. It was a nice, quiet, refreshing
time, and a fresh and green oasis in a somewhat arid, spiritual desert.
I think, perhaps, it belongs to the native character and disposition to
do without certain things which are to us essential, and the loss even
of the Holy Communion is not so serious deprivation to them as to us.
Native minds, I fancy, adapt themselves too readily to the existing
condition of things, and because they live in the desert they must never
even pine for the food and water which is not directly attainable.
Unless the Holy things of our religion are kept before them in constant
practice they are too wont to dispense with them, and be content with
the dry husks such as their neighbours around feed upon. I shall
therefore try to keep up the regular administration of the Holy
Communion both for the present strengthening and refreshing of their
souls, and for a continual remembrance that the reception of it is
necessary to salvation. Easy native natures are too apt to float along
with the popular stream, and to be content with dry, dull teaching and
drier, duller services, and I sometimes long for the time when we shall
have a more ornate church and appointments, and a more elaborate ritual.
I firmly believe it would be helpful to the congregation. Now we are too
content with such things as we have, and they are poor at the best.
After the Celebration we had school. We assembled first in the
schoolhouse, sang a hymn and I said a Prayer, then divided into classes,
I myself taking all the old men into the Church, and trying to explain
the sense of the collect to them. I told them how God had prepared for
them that love Him such good things as pass man’s understanding, and I
asked them how we knew that. I told them that God had revealed these
things to us by His Son Jesus Christ, and He had left His testimony with
us in His Gospel, and the books which persons chosen by Him had written
under the influence and direction of His Holy Spirit. Their religion was
a matter of mere hearsay and conjecture, and had been handed on from
mouth to mouth, and had grown as it came down after the manner of mere
verbal testimony. There could be no doubt with us because we have the
living testimony of Christ’s own words which never pass away. Their
religion came from nowhere and no one knew of its beginning; of ours at
all events we were sure. I told them too that in England and other
countries, where arts and sciences were known and practised far beyond
anything they could conceive of, there were things so marvellous that
their understanding could not grasp even the faintest idea of them, and
how much more marvellous, wonderful, and glorious must the things be
which God has prepared for such as love Him. Why even here below we see
great and wonderful and mysterious things which pass the understanding
of the world’s wisest minds, and how much more wonderful still must the
things be which are to be revealed hereafter, when the eye shall be
purified to see, the ear to hear, and the senses to discern the beauty
and true glory of them. And what does God, who thus prepares these
blessed things for us, require of us? Why to love Him above all things.
Each one of us had some darling idol, to which we offered the devotion
of our hearts, but it must be torn down and removed if it comes before
our love to God. And the end of this love was God Himself, and to dwell
with Him for ever as inheritors of His gracious promises which exceed
all that we can desire. The old fellows were very attentive, and
interspersed running remarks, and when I had done I asked them to kneel
down, and I said the Collect as a Prayer for them. Meanwhile the other
teachers had school with their scholars in the schoolhouse. The first
class of boys and girls had to say their Collect by heart, and after
that they were questioned on its meaning. School was closed with Prayer
and a Hymn, and then I was ready for breakfast, very dry, uncooked rice
with sugar and cocoanut cream, and a cup of delicious Norfolk Island
coffee. Morning Prayer followed in due course before the day got too
hot, and after this everyone was busy with their Sunday meal for the
afternoon. The day was as hot as the night was cold, but it was most
glorious, and all nature seemed to be keeping its Sabbath. The evening
was perfectly serene and peaceful, a fit termination to a quiet, restful
day.
In the evening I had the teachers, and after that service at which I
preached from the gospel of the day, “Except your righteousness exceed
the righteousness of the Scribes and Pharisees.” They were very
attentive during my remarks, so I trust I was understood. I told them
God did not want us merely to come to school and church but He wanted
the devotion of the heart, it was not outward righteousness He wished
for, but inward truth and honesty and straightness. The Pharisees were
very good Churchgoers, but their heart was not right with God, &c., &c.
After Service we had singing which they always enjoy, and even now I
hear their voices in the School house singing “There’s a friend for
little children.” I had intended to have made an excursion to the
neighbouring villages to-day but I could not manage the time, the day
having gone so rapidly. Now it is very cool and betokens another cold
night but Oh! how calm and peaceful!
_Monday, August 2nd._--Another peculiarly cold night ushered in a most
glorious day. A very heavy dew lay all round, and until the sun was
quite high in the heavens the cold was very perceptible, and a flannel
coat was very agreeable. I took two photographs early and trust they are
good, but it would be very hard to reproduce the original so lovely as
it appeared in the morning light. The scene too was animated with the
cheery voices of the people, the crowing of the cocks, the merry
laughter of the boys, and even the squealing of the pigs as they
followed their owners for their morning food, lent additional and
characteristic charm to the occasion. All this one cannot photograph,
but it is necessary to suppose all this to give an idea of the village
as it is on these glorious mornings. Here we are several hundred feet
above the sea level, and a good way inland so that a pleasant day breeze
always fans the air, and keeps the place gratefully cool under cover of
a roof, or in the shade. I believe one could live here quite comfortably
all the year round, and for myself I never feel better than I do here.
There is such a freedom too about life here that one can carry a light
heart and a contented mind in a healthy body. To-day almost without
exception the people are off to the beach to windward. At this time of
year the tides are very low, and leave the reefs almost entirely
uncovered. Fish and crabs and other sea oddities are therefore left
exposed, and the first named are shot by the men in the pools, and the
women collect the latter, which are looked upon as choice articles of
diet. Just now I am left quite solitary, but I have just dismissed a
bevy of ladies who came to see the present seven days wonder, my
magnetic fish. They cannot fathom the mystery at all why when one point
of the fishing rod as they call it, is presented to the fish they
eagerly rush at it, and why when the other they rapidly retire. They
solve the problem by saying it is a “Wui,” (spirit). And it must seem
strange to them as all our belongings must being of an order of art, so
far removed from their conceptions or achievements. A kerosene lamp to
this day is a marvel to them, and the manipulation equally mysterious,
why it should flare up when turned one way, and why it should die when
turned the other. One old woman who has been very sick and up to-day for
the first time, came with the crowd and greeted me in the most maternal
manner, grasping my hand in both her own, and calling me “Baua,” an
obsolete word now, but belonging to a district called “Loqala” which was
utterly devastated years ago by enemies among whom were these very
people of Tanrig. This old lady and her son Samuel, now my head teacher
at Tasmouri, are the sole survivors I believe, and she retains the
expression or appelation by which a grandmother greets her grandson.