CHAPTER X

The educational system--Long hours of study and no fresh air or

exercise--Take Jonescu, as Minister of Education, introduces

the bath-tub to the schools, and provides for walking

exercise--School-fare is never good--A water famine--Examinations

and show questions--English poetry translated literally--German

literature taught in _French_, the pupils being examined in

_Roumanian_--Lack of books in the Roumanian language--The school

fêtes--Convents and proselytising--A girl who despised all the

pleasures of the world and ran away to become a nun.

Education is free and compulsory throughout Roumania, but in many

rural districts non-attendance at school is winked at, especially at

harvest-time. The Government primary schools in the capital are chiefly

attended by the lower classes; children of the better-class families

either attend private schools or have instruction at home. But in any

case children are expected to present themselves at the Government

examinations, and to pass the first four classes.

Private schools in the capital are usually well attended, some having

as many as four hundred pupils, the children from the provinces always

being sent to Bucarest for their education. Although very much is

expected from Roumanian children, they are sadly handicapped. Their

own tongue is grossly neglected, instruction being usually given them

in French. They are, besides, taught English and German, and sometimes

Latin and Greek. A great deal of attention is devoted to music and

painting, and of late years practical training in dressmaking, cooking,

and housekeeping is given in the schools.

Naturally, with so many subjects in the curriculum, there is not much

time to lose if one is to get all one’s work done for the next day

in a certain time. Very many written exercises are demanded of the

pupils, in all languages, the consequence being that the handwriting is

atrocious, and time is too limited to allow of any improvement being

even attempted in this direction.

School begins at 8 o’clock a.m., continuing till midday, when there is

an interval for dinner and recreation till 2 o’clock. Lessons are then

resumed, and continue till 6 p.m. Of course this does not mean that

every child is continually occupied for eight hours. A pupil may have

only four classes to attend on one day, perhaps five on another day, or

sometimes only three--but the rest of the time must be devoted to the

preparation of lessons for the next day. Preparation ended, the pupil

may employ herself as she likes, provided she remains quiet, as, of

course, lessons may be going on in the class-room in which she has no

part.

These hours are very long, and when one considers that no time is given

for outdoor exercise, one cannot wonder that the children grow up puny

and stunted. In a well-known school in Bucarest outdoor exercise, fresh

air, and baths were unknown. The class-rooms were overheated, there

being a large stove in each, and windows were never opened. Once a

fortnight the children of so many classes (they were taken in rotation)

were assembled in the recreation room, where the washing of their feet

was supervised by the German governess with all due solemnity! This was

the only concession to cleanliness, as of course colds would have to be

risked if further ablutions were indulged in!

These customs were somewhat changed a few years ago (perhaps I may

be permitted to say that it was upon my representation), when Mons.

Take Jonescu became Minister of Instruction. He, as an intelligent and

enlightened man, readily saw the evils that were certain to accrue

to the youth of the country from such an upbringing. Regulations

were framed insisting upon baths being provided in all public and

private schools, and upon time being allowed for the children to

take a walk daily of at least an hour. These innovations were by no

means favourably received at the time either by heads of schools or

by the children themselves, and it would not astonish me to learn

that things have fallen back into the old way. Breakfast is served

at 7 o’clock, consisting of a cup of coffee and a _kipfel_ (small

roll) without butter. Midday is the luncheon hour, when the dishes

are generally varied, but never appetising (school-fare never is).

Sometimes meat is served stewed with quinces, potatoes, or other

vegetables, and a pudding made of maize flour liberally besprinkled

with grated cheese. At 4 o’clock a piece of dry bread is given to

each child, and at 6 o’clock comes dinner. This generally consists of

a thin soup, rarely palatable, the second course being the meat from

which the soup has been made. Surely such meat was never seen anywhere

else! It is generally perfectly white, as if it had been stewed until

every drop of nourishment had been extracted from it. This, together

with vegetables, forms the second course. If a governess cannot bring

herself to swallow it, or can plead a bad headache, she may be allowed

a _bifteck_; but as the beef-steaks are difficult to distinguish from a

bit of shoe-leather, little is gained by the exchange.

Stewed fruit, or a light pudding, ends the evening meal. The

governesses are allowed a glass of the thin red wine of the country,

but the children are obliged to slake their thirst with water. Such

water! It used to look as if a tiny drop of milk had fallen into it

by mistake, and had left it a muddy colour. The water of Bucarest was

very bad when I first went there, but of late years it has greatly

improved, as filtering-beds have been arranged for the water to pass

through before entering the capital. A scheme was mooted for bringing

water from Sinaia, but as the cost would have been very great, the plan

was not proceeded with. If it had, there would be no capital in Europe

better provided with water, as that of Sinaia is the best I have ever

tasted. Clear as crystal, and perfectly cold, as all mountain water is,

it forms a refreshing draught on a hot summer day.

But even in the mountains the supply may run short, as happened one

exceedingly hot summer. I was at Sinaia at the time, and it was the

only occasion in my whole life when I envied a queen. I heard that her

Majesty alone amongst all the people of the land was able to indulge in

the luxury of a daily bath.

But to return. The examinations are usually in the month of June, both

State examinations and those in private schools. Upon the occasion

of the first school examination at which I was present I did feel

astonished. The room in which it was held looked rather imposing,

being handsomely decorated with tall plants and plenty of flowers. The

relatives and friends of the pupils had been invited to be present,

and a goodly number responded. A class came up to be examined in

German grammar, but to my amazement only two questions were put by the

teacher. These two questions _were put alternately to every pupil in

the class_, and the first answer being correct, all the others were

of course also correct, as each pupil interrogated had just heard the

reply of the preceding pupil.

The explanation--such as it was--came later on. In preparing my own

class (for I had an engagement at this school for a short time), I

was instructed by the headmistress as to the questions to be asked.

She remarked, “It makes such a bad impression if the pupils fail to

answer correctly!” English poetry was learned by heart, first being

translated _literally_ word by word. They would have been remarkably

clever children who could have made any sense whatever out of it as so

rendered; but the headmistress decreed that it should be so, and so it

had to be.

German was even more curiously taught. Roumanian children do not like

German, so they are never very proficient in it. Not knowing the

language sufficiently well to study in it, German literature was taught

in _French_; and when the girls presented themselves for the State

examination, they were questioned in _Roumanian_!

One may wonder why they do not learn in their own tongue; the

explanation is, to a large extent, simply the lack of books.[2] There

are no advanced books in the Roumanian language dealing with foreign

subjects, so the children are obliged to use French, a language in

which they are more or less proficient.

Holidays in Roumania are much longer than in England--three weeks at

Christmas, two weeks at Easter, and from three to three and a half

months in summer, besides the numerous saints’ days, which are always

religiously kept.

Just before breaking up for the summer holidays, some of the private

schools give a little fête. The children act a short play; there are

various songs and pianoforte solos as part of the entertainment,

and then dancing is indulged in till a late hour. At one of these

entertainments I happened to be present, and was very much--shall I

merely say--amused? to find that although dancing was kept up for the

visitors (the children were sent to bed) till 3 a.m., nothing more

substantial than a _dulçeata_ was provided by way of refreshments. At

some of the schools the “names-day” of the headmistress is observed

as a holiday. Each child must perforce contribute a certain sum

towards the gift that is to be presented. I have heard some dilatory

ones admonished in class to bring their contribution not later than a

certain date, as the present had then to be bought.

A considerable sum of money is thus collected, and as the recipient of

the present is always sounded as to her wishes, a very practical as

well as a handsome gift is usually obtained. One present I remember

seeing consisted of three lovely carpets of Roumanian manufacture,

really beautiful in design.

After the presentation the children are of course free for the rest of

the day, and are regaled with bon-bons, as a slight return for their

generosity.

Roumanian children are often sent for their education to one or other

of the Roman Catholic convents scattered throughout the country, the

nuns of which invariably belong to some French sisterhood. Some years

ago there was a great stir in Bucarest, and considerable feeling

was aroused against the nuns, as they were accused of trying to

proselytise. An outcry was raised by the people that the faith of

their forefathers was in danger (not that I ever saw it religiously

adhered to), and some society ladies having leisure just then for a

new fad, banded themselves together in order to protect it. A service

was held in St George’s, one of the principal churches, after which

a procession was formed and passed through the streets to the palace

of the Metropolitan, in order to present him with an address assuring

him of the constant adherence of the people of the country to their

own religion, and protesting at the same time against any attempts to

subvert their children.

The agitation caused considerable talk for a time and then died a

natural death. But it is a fact that Roumanian girls who have been

educated in a French convent rarely retain a genuine love for their

own country, its customs, or its language. That is one reason why the

Roumanian language is so much neglected. It has happened that girls who

have been educated in France fall utterly under the influence of the

nuns, and go over to Roman Catholicism.

I remember the case of one girl who did so. She was a Greek, living in

Bucarest with her parents, who, although they were not rich, did what

they thought best for their only child in sending her to Paris to be

educated. The girl was very musical, and probably the nuns thought she

would be useful to them on that account although she had no money. She

returned to her parents in course of time, but was always restless,

wishing to return to the convent, and finally confessed to her mother

her great desire to become a nun. Her mother, being very much against

the idea, set before her all the disadvantages that would accrue from

such a course, and in order to distract her from dwelling upon it gave

her every amusement that was in her power. Balls, concerts, fêtes

followed each other in quick succession, but all proved unavailing. The

girl left home one afternoon, ostensibly to visit a friend, and the

next that was heard of her was a telegram from the frontier informing

her parents that she was on her way back to the convent. She became a

nun, and as far as I know she was lost to her parents. This was not by

any means the only case of which I had knowledge.

FOOTNOTES:

[2] I believe that, since the period--several years ago--of which I

write, this state of affairs has been remedied to a considerable extent.

Twenty years in Roumania · 第 10 / 33 章