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Transcriber's Note
Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections
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DOMESTIC
FRENCH COOKERY,
CHIEFLY
TRANSLATED FROM SULPICE BARUE.
BY MISS LESLIE,
AUTHOR OF "SEVENTY-FIVE RECEIPTS," &C.
FOURTH EDITION.
Philadelphia:
CAREY & HART--CHESTNUT STREET.
1836.
Entered according to the Act of Congress, the 25th day of October, 1832,
by
E. L. CAREY & A. HART,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of
Pennsylvania.
STEREOTYPED BY J. HOWE.
PREFACE.
The design of the following little book is to furnish receipts for a
select variety of French dishes, explained and described in such a
manner as to make them intelligible to American cooks, and practicable
with American utensils and American fuel. Those that (according to the
original work) cannot be prepared without an unusual and foreign
apparatus have been omitted; and also such as can only be accomplished
by the consummate skill and long practice of native French cooks.
Many dishes have been left out, as useless in a country where provisions
are abundant. On this side of the Atlantic all persons in respectable
life can obtain better articles of food than sheeps' tails, calves'
ears, &c. and the preparation of these articles (according to the
European receipts) is too tedious and complicated to be of any use to
the indigent, or to those who can spare but little time for their
cookery.
Also, the translator has inserted no receipts which contain nothing
different from the usual American mode of preparing the same dishes.
Most of the French Cookery Books introduced into this country have
failed in their object, from the evident deficiency of the translators
in a competent knowledge of the technical terms of cookery and from the
multitude of French words interspersed through the directions, and which
cannot, in general, be comprehended without an incessant and troublesome
reference to the glossary.
The translator of the following pages has endeavored, according to the
best of her ability, to avoid these defects, and has aimed at making a
book of practical utility to all those who may have a desire to
introduce occasionally at their tables good specimens of the French
culinary art.
From these receipts she believes that many advantageous hints may be
taken for improvements in American cookery; and she hopes that, upon
trial, this little work may be found equally useful in private families,
hotels, and boarding-houses.
_Philadelphia, September, 1832._
CONTENTS.
SOUPS.
Beef Soup Page 13
Consomme, or Jelly Soup 14
Pease Soup ib.
Maccaroni Soup ib.
Chestnut Soup 15
Almond Soup ib.
Lobster Soup ib.
Oyster Soup 16
Green Peas Soup ib.
GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES.
Brown Gravy 17
White Gravy ib.
Essence of Game ib.
To Clarify Gravies or Essences 18
Veloute, or Velvet Essence ib.
SAUCES, &c.
Bechamel 19
Another Bechamel ib.
Drawn Butter ib.
Melted Butter, another way 20
Cold Sauce for Fish ib.
Sauce for Vegetables ib.
Pungent Sauce, or Sauce Piquante 21
Anchovy Sauce ib.
Curry Sauce ib.
Tomata Sauce ib.
Cucumber Sauce 22
Bread Sauce ib.
Sauce Robert ib.
Shalot or Onion Sauce 23
Universal Sauce ib.
Lobster Sauce ib.
Spinach for coloring Green 24
Garlic Butter ib.
Hazelnut Butter 24
Larding ib.
MEATS.
Veal a la Mode 29
Veal Cutlets ib.
Blanquette, or Fricassee of Veal 30
Godiveau ib.
Calves' Liver baked ib.
Calves' Liver fried 31
Veal Kidneys ib.
Grillades ib.
Liver Cake 32
Sirloin of Beef ib.
Stewed Beef ib.
Beef Steaks 33
Beef a la Mode ib.
Roasted Ham 34
Fried Ham with Tomatas 35
Roasted Tongue ib.
Baked Tongue 36
Potted Tongue ib.
Leg of Mutton with Oysters 37
Cutlets a la Maintenon ib.
Pork Cutlets ib.
Larded Rabbit 38
Rabbits in Papers ib.
Pilau ib.
Veal Sweetbreads 39
GAME AND POULTRY.
A Salmi 43
Cold Salmi ib.
Ragooed Livers 44
A fine Hash ib.
Marinade of Fowls ib.
Fricassee of Fowls 45
Fowls with Tarragon ib.
A stewed Fowl 46
Chickens in Jelly ib.
Pulled Chickens 47
Stewed Turkey, or Turkey en Daube 48
Roasted Turkey ib.
Potted Goose 49
Ducks with Turnips 50
A Duck with Olives ib.
A Duck with Peas ib.
Turkey Puddings 51
Baked Pigeons, or Pigeons a la Crapaudine ib.
Broiled Pigeons 52
Pigeons Pear-fashion (Pigeons au poire) ib.
Pigeons with Peas ib.
Roasted Partridges 53
Partridges with Cabbage ib.
A Partridge Pie ib.
Roasted Pheasants 54
Broiled Quails 55
Roasted Plovers ib.
FISH.
Stewed Salmon 59
Roasted Salmon ib.
Broiled Salmon 60
Salt Cod Fish ib.
Broiled Fresh Mackerel 61
Broiled Fresh Shad ib.
Hashed Fish ib.
Lobster Pie 62
Oyster Loaves ib.
VEGETABLES.
Stewed Lettuce 65
Stewed Spinach ib.
Stewed Cucumbers 66
Stewed Beets ib.
Stewed Carrots ib.
Stewed Cabbage ib.
Stewed Peas 67
Stewed Beans ib.
Stewed Onions 68
Onions stewed in Wine ib.
Stewed Mushrooms ib.
Stewed Potatoes 69
Stewed Potatoes with Turnips ib.
Asparagus with Cream ib.
Potatoes stewed whole 70
Fried Potatoes 70
Fried Cauliflower ib.
Fried Celery 71
Broiled Mushrooms ib.
Stuffed Cabbage (Choux farcis) 72
Stuffed Potatoes ib.
Stuffed Cucumbers 73
Stuffed Tomatas ib.
Cauliflowers with Cheese 74
Ragooed Cabbage ib.
Ragooed Mushrooms 75
PUREES.
Puree of Turnips 76
Puree of Celery ib.
Puree of Onions ib.
Puree of Mushrooms 77
Puree of Beans ib.
Puree of Green Peas 78
EGGS, &c.
Boiled eggs 79
Fried Eggs ib.
Stewed Eggs 80
Stuffed Eggs ib.
Egg Snow ib.
Pancakes 81
Omelets ib.
Maccaroni 82
Maccaroni Pie ib.
Blancmange in Eggs 83
PASTRY, CAKES, &c.
French Paste 87
Puff-Paste ib.
Cream Tarts 88
Almond Tarts ib.
Rissoles 89
Almond Custards ib.
Vanilla Custards ib.
Chocolate Custards 90
Coffee Custards ib.
Tea Custards 91
Rice Pottage ib.
Apple Fritters ib.
Bread Fritters 92
Rice Cake ib.
Potato Cake 93
Sponge Cake, or Biscuit ib.
Croquettes 94
Marguerites ib.
Wafers 95
Gingerbread 96
PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c.
An Apple Charlotte 99
Apple Compote ib.
Compote of Pears 100
Compote of Chestnuts ib.
Fried Apples 101
Peach Marmalade ib.
Brandy Peaches ib.
Gooseberry Pottage 102
Fruit Jellies 103
Preserved Pumpkin 104
Preserved Raspberries ib.
Orange Jelly 105
Clarified Sugar ib.
Fruit in Sugar Coats 106
Burnt Almonds ib.
Peppermint Drops 107
Chocolate Drops ib.
Nougat 108
Orgeat Paste 109
LIQUEURS.
Noyau 110
Raspberry Cordial ib.
Rose Cordial 111
Quince Cordial ib.
Lemon Cordial ib.
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS.
French Coffee 115
Coffee without boiling ib.
Chocolate 116
Fine Lemonade 117
Punch ib.
Convenient Lemonade ib.
French Mustard 113
Potato Flour ib.
Cold Pickles ib.
Cornichons or Cucumber Pickles 119
Fine Cologne Water 120
PART THE FIRST.
SOUPS.
BEEF SOUP.
The best soup is made of the lean of fine fresh beef. The proportion is
four pounds of meat to a gallon of water. It should boil at least six
hours. Mutton soup may be made in the same manner.
Put the meat into cold water, with a little salt; set it over a good
fire; let it boil slowly but constantly, and skim it well. When no more
fat rises to the top, put in what quantity you please of carrots,
turnips, leeks, celery, and parsley, all cut into small pieces; add, if
you choose, a laurel-leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, a few cloves,
and a large burnt onion, to heighten the color of the soup. Grate a
large red carrot, and strew it over the top. Then continue to let it
boil, gently but steadily, till dinner time. Next to the quantity and
quality of the meat, nothing is more necessary to the excellence of soup
than to keep the fire moderate, and to see that it is boiling all the
time, but not too fast.
Have ready in the tureen some toasted bread, cut into small squares;
pour the soup over the bread, passing it through a sieve, so as to
strain it thoroughly. Some, however, prefer serving it up with all the
vegetables in it.
The soup will be improved by boiling in it the remains of a piece of
cold roast beef. Soups made of veal, chickens, &c. are only fit for
invalids.
After you have strained out the vegetables, you may put into the soup
some vermicelli (allowing two ounces to each quart), and then boil it
ten minutes longer.
CONSOMME, OR JELLY SOUP.
Into two quarts of cold water, put four pounds of the lean of the best
beef-steaks, and a large fowl cut into pieces, four large carrots, four
onions, four leeks, a bunch of sweet herbs (parsley, thyme, sweet
marjoram, sweet basil, and chives), tied up with a laurel-leaf, or two
peach-leaves, and four cloves; add a little salt and pepper. Boil it
gently for eight hours, skimming it well; then strain it.
PEASE SOUP.
Take two quarts of dried split peas, the evening before you intend
making the soup, and putting them into lukewarm water, let them soak all
night. In the morning, put the peas into a pan or pot with three quarts
of cold water, a pound of bacon, and a pound of the lean of fresh beef.
Cut up two carrots, two onions, and two heads of celery, and put them
into the soup, with a bunch of sweet herbs, and three or four cloves.
Boil it slowly five or six hours, till the peas can no longer be
distinguished, having lost all shape and form; then strain it, and serve
it up.
MACCARONI SOUP.
First make some good beef soup (without any vegetables), and when it is
sufficiently boiled, strain it through a sieve. Take some maccaroni, in
the proportion of half a pound to two quarts of soup. Boil it in water
until it is tender, adding to it a little butter. Then lay it on a sieve
to drain, and cut it into small pieces. Throw it into the soup, and boil
all together ten minutes or more. Grate some rich cheese over it before
you send it to table.
CHESTNUT SOUP.
Having made some beef soup without vegetables, strain it, and put in a
pint of peeled chestnuts for each quart of soup. Boil it again till the
chestnuts have gone all to pieces, and have become a part of the liquid.
A still better way is, to roast or bake the chestnuts first, (having cut
a slit in the shell of each,) then peel them, and throw them into the
soup ten minutes before you take it from the fire.
ALMOND SOUP.
Take half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and two ounces of shelled
bitter almonds, or peach-kernels. Scald them, to make the skins peel off
easily, and when they are blanched, throw them into cold water. Then
drain and wipe them dry. Beat them (a few at a time) in a marble mortar,
adding as you beat them, a little milk and a little grated lemon-peel.
Have ready two quarts of rich milk, boiled with two sticks of cinnamon
and a quarter of a pound of sugar. Stir the almonds gradually into the
milk, and let them have one boil up. Prepare some slices of toasted
bread, take out a little of the soup and soak them in it. Then lay them
in the bottom of a tureen, and pour the soup over them. Grate on some
nutmeg.
LOBSTER SOUP.
Having boiled a large lobster, extract all the meat from the shell. Fry
in butter some thin slices of bread, put them into a marble mortar, one
at a time, alternately with some of the meat of the lobster, and pound
the whole to a paste till it is all done. Then melt some butter in a
stew-pan, and put in the mixed bread and lobster. Add a quart of boiling
milk, with salt, mace, and nutmeg to your taste. Let the whole stew
gently for half an hour.
OYSTER SOUP.
Take two quarts of oysters; drain them, and cut out the hard part. Have
ready a dozen eggs, boiled hard; cut them in pieces, and pound them in a
mortar alternately with the oysters. Boil the liquor of the oysters with
a head of celery cut small, two grated nutmegs, a tea-spoonful of mace,
and a tea-spoonful of cloves, with two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and a
tea-spoonful of whole pepper. When the liquor has boiled, stir in the
pounded eggs and oysters, a little at a time. Give it one more boil, and
then serve it up.
Salt oysters will not do for soup.
GREEN PEAS SOUP.
Make a good beef soup, with the proportion of four pounds of lean beef
to a gallon of water. Boil it slowly, and skim it well. In another pot
boil two quarts of green peas, with a large bunch of mint, a little
salt, and three or four lumps of loaf sugar. When they are quite soft,
take them out, strain them from the water, and mash them in a cullender
till all the pulp drips through. Then stir it into the soup after you
have taken it up and strained it. Prepare some toasted bread cut into
small squares, lay it in a tureen, and pour the soup over it.
When you toast bread for soups, stews, &c. always cut off the crust.
GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES.
BROWN GRAVY. (JUS.)
Put into a sauce-pan, or skillet, five or six onions, and as many
carrots cut into small pieces, with about two pounds of scraps of beef,
in which there must be none of the fat. Pour over them a pint of water.
Cover the pan, and begin with a brisk fire. When the gravy has become
brown, add a little boiling water (or broth if you have it), with a
tea-spoonful of salt, three or four cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs.
Diminish the fire, and let the gravy stew gently for an hour and a half.
Occasionally prick the meat with a fork, and press it with the back of a
spoon to extract its juices. Then strain it through a sieve, and let it
stand a while before you use it.
In addition to the beef, you may put in pieces of cold goose, or cold
duck.
WHITE GRAVY. (COULIS.)
Butter the bottom of a sauce-pan, and put in two pounds of scraps of
veal, and, if you have it at hand, some cold fowl, or cold turkey; add
two white onions, and four or five blades of mace; pour over it a pint
of boiling water, or broth; cover the pan, and set it over a slow fire
for five or six hours, pricking and pressing the meat with a fork and
spoon. Strain it through a sieve, and if it is too thin, set it again
over the fire, to stew a while longer.
ESSENCE OF GAME.
Take scraps of any kind of game (partridges, pheasants, hares, &c.), and
also four calves feet, and a few small pieces of ham. Put them all into
a stew-pan, with half a bottle of white wine, two carrots, two onions,
and a bunch of sweet herbs. Stew them over a slow fire for four hours,
and when they are reduced to a jelly, moisten it with four
table-spoonfuls of hot water, or broth, stirred in gently. Strain it
through a sieve, and then clear it by stirring in the whites of three
eggs slightly beaten.
TO CLARIFY GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES
Having strained your gravy through a sieve, beat slightly the whites of
three eggs, and stir them into it. Place it again on the fire, and stir
it till it comes to a boil; then take it from the fire, and put it away
to settle. Strain it then through a napkin, and you will have a
transparent jelly excellent for making fine sauces.
VELOUTE, OR VELVET ESSENCE.
Take half a pound of scraps of veal, the same quantity of pieces of
fowls, and twelve or fifteen mushrooms; stew them slowly in butter, and
then add two onions, half a carrot, and a bunch of sweet herbs cut
small, three table-spoonfuls of flour, three of boiling water or broth,
and salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Let it stew an hour and a
half, and then strain it.
SAUCES, &c.
When sauces are finished with eggs, use only the yolks, and mix them
first with but a spoonful or two of the sauce; mix them off the fire.
Set on the pan again for two or three moments, but do not let it boil
after the eggs are in.
BECHAMEL.
Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter sprinkled with
flour, three or four onions, and a carrot cut small, a little parsley,
and a dozen mushrooms. Set it over the fire until the butter is melted,
and then add three table-spoonfuls of flour stirred into a pint of cream
or rich milk, with salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Stir it till
it boils; then reduce the fire, and let the bechamel stew gently for
three quarters of an hour. When it is done, strain it, and then stir in
the yolks of three eggs.
ANOTHER BECHAMEL.
Cut into dice, or small square pieces, half a pound of bacon or ham, a
carrot, a turnip, and two onions. Put them into a sauce-pan, with two
large spoonfuls of veal-dripping; add a little butter (about two
ounces), and two large spoonfuls of flour. Moisten it with boiling
water, or broth. Add nutmeg, cloves, thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper to
your taste; also a laurel-leaf. Let it stew for an hour. Strain it, and
before you serve it up, squeeze in a little lemon-juice.
DRAWN BUTTER.
Put into a small pan a table-spoonful of flour and a tumbler of water,
with salt to your taste, and a little pepper. Stir it till it boils.
Then withdraw it from the fire, and add two ounces of butter and a few
drops of cold water, with a little lemon-juice, or vinegar. Set it on
the stove, or near the fire, and keep it warm till it is wanted.
You may thicken it while boiling with mushrooms, cut small; or after it
is done with hard eggs chopped fine, pickled cucumbers chopped, or
capers.
MELTED BUTTER--_another way_.
Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter. When quite melted
over the fire, throw in a large spoonful of flour, and add a half pint
of boiling water, and salt to your taste. Boil it a few minutes, and
then put in a tea-spoonful of cold water. If intended as sauce for a
pudding, stir in at the last a glass of white wine, and half a grated
nutmeg.
COLD SAUCE FOR FISH.
Cut small, and pound in a mortar, equal proportions of parsley, chervil,
tarragon, chives and burnet, with two yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pass
these ingredients through a cullender, and then mix them on a plate with
four table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, two of vinegar, and two of mustard.
Use a wooden spoon.
SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES--SUCH AS ASPARAGUS, &c.
Take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs; mash them on a plate with the
back of a wooden spoon, and mix them with three table-spoonfuls of
vinegar, a shalot or small onion minced fine, and a little salt and
Cayenne pepper. Add three table-spoonfuls of olive oil, and mix the
whole very well.
PUNGENT SAUCE. (SAUCE PIQUANTE.)
Put into a saucepan a half-pint of vinegar, a branch of thyme, two or
three sprigs of sweet marjoram, a leaf of laurel, a clove of garlic, a
shalot or a little onion, and Cayenne pepper and salt to your taste. Add
a glass of broth or gravy. Stew the whole slowly till it is reduced to
two thirds of the original quantity: then strain it.
ANCHOVY SAUCE--FOR FISH.
Cut the flesh of three anchovies into small shreds, and steep them in
vinegar for half an hour or more. Then mince them fine, and throw them
into a saucepan with a little butter rolled in flour. Add pepper and
mustard to your taste. Pour in sufficient vinegar to cover it, and let
it boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Strain it, and squeeze in a
little lemon-juice before you serve it up.
CURRY SAUCE.
Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of butter and a table-spoonful of
curry-powder (or of powdered turmeric if more convenient), half a grated
nutmeg, half a spoonful of saffron, and two spoonfuls of flour. Add
sufficient boiling water or broth to cover it, and let it stew a quarter
of an hour. Strain it, stir in a little more butter, and serve it up.
TOMATA SAUCE.
Bake ten tomatas, with pepper and salt, till they become like a
marmalade. Then add a little flour or grated bread crumbs, and a little
broth or hot water. Stew it gently ten minutes, and before you send it
to table add two ounces of butter and let it melt in the sauce.
CUCUMBER SAUCE.
Put into a sauce-pan a piece of butter rolled in flour, some salt,
pepper, and one or two pickled cucumbers minced fine. Moisten it with
boiling water. Let it stew gently a few minutes, and serve it up.
BREAD SAUCE.
Take four ounces of grated stale bread; pour over it sufficient milk to
cover it, and let it soak about three quarters of an hour, or till it
becomes incorporated with the milk. Then add a dozen corns of black
pepper, a little salt, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Pour
on a little more milk, and give it a boil. Serve it up in a sauce-boat,
and eat it with roast wild fowl, or roast pig.
Instead of the pepper, you may boil in it a hand full of dried currants,
well picked, washed, and floured.
SAUCE ROBERT.
Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of butter, with a spoonful of
flour. Simmer them till of a fine brown color. Mince half a dozen large
onions, and a large slice of cold ham. Put them into the pan, with
another piece of butter, and a very little broth or warm water. Skim the
sauce well, and let it stew gently for twenty minutes. Before you serve
it up, stir in a table-spoonful of lemon-juice or vinegar, and a
tea-spoonful of mustard. This sauce is used chiefly for fresh pork, or
white poultry.
SHALOT OR ONION SAUCE. (SAUCE RAVIGOTE.)
Take a handful of sweet herbs and the same quantity of shalots or little
onions, and cut them up small. Put them into a sauce-pan, with some
vinegar, salt, pepper, and sufficient broth or warm water to cover them.
Let them boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Take the sauce from the
fire and set it on the stove, or on the hearth, and stir in (till it
melts) a piece of butter rolled in flour, or a spoonful of olive oil.
UNIVERSAL SAUCE.
Take a pint of good broth, or a pint of drawn butter. Stir into it a
glass of white wine, and half the peel of a lemon grated. Add a laurel
leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, and a spoonful of vinegar. Let the
mixture simmer on a few coals or on hot ashes, for five or six hours or
more, and it will be good to pour over either meat, poultry, or fish,
and will keep several days in a cool place.
LOBSTER SAUCE.
The lobster being boiled, extract the meat from the shell, and beat it
in a mortar. Rub it through a cullender or sieve, and put it into a
sauce-pan with a spoonful of veloute (or velvet essence) if you have it,
and one of broth. Mix it well, and add a piece of butter, some salt, and
some Cayenne pepper. Stew it ten minutes, and serve it up, to eat with
boiled fresh fish.
SPINACH FOR COLORING GREEN.
Take three handfuls of spinach, and pound it in a mortar to extract the
juice. Then put it into a sauce-pan and set it over a slow fire. When it
is just ready to boil, take it off and strain it. By stirring in a small
quantity of spinach-juice, you may give any sauce a green color.
GARLIC BUTTER.
Take two large cloves of garlic and pound them to a paste in a mortar,
adding, by degrees, a piece of butter the size of an egg. You may with a
little of this butter give the taste of garlic to sauces. Some persons
like a piece of garlic butter on the table, to eat with roast meat.
HAZELNUT BUTTER.
Having scalded and blanched some hazelnuts, pound them to a paste in a
mortar, adding gradually a small quantity of butter.
This is good to eat with wild fowl, or to flavor the most delicate
sauces.
LARDING.
Larding with slips of fat bacon greatly improves the taste and
appearance of meat, poultry, game, &c. and is much used in French
cookery.
For this purpose, you must have a larding-pin (which may be purchased at
the hardware stores); it is a steel instrument about a foot in length,
sharp at one end, and cleft at the other into four divisions which are
near two inches long, and resembling tweezers.
Bacon is the proper meat to lard with; the fat only is used. Cut it into
slips not exceeding two inches in length, half an inch in breadth, and
half an inch in thickness, and smaller if intended for poultry; they
will diminish in cooking. Put these slips of bacon (one at a time) into
the cleft or split end of the larding-pin. Give each slip a slight twist
and press it down hard into the pin, with your fingers. Then run the pin
through the meat or fowl (avoiding the bones), and when you draw it out
on the under side it will have left the slip of bacon sticking in the
upper side. Take care to arrange the slips in regular rows and at equal
distances; have them all of the same size, and let every one stick up
about an inch from the surface of the meat. If any are wrong, take them
out and do them over again.
Fowls and birds are generally larded on the breast only. To lard
handsomely and neatly, practice and dexterity are requisite.
Cold poultry may be larded with slips of the fat of cold boiled ham, and
when not to be cooked again, it may be made to look very tastefully.
The slips for cold poultry should be very small, scarcely thicker than a
straw.
PART THE SECOND.
MEATS.
VEAL A LA MODE.
Rub a fillet of veal all over with salt, and then lard it. Make a
seasoning of chopped sweet-herbs, shalots, mushrooms, pepper, salt, and
powdered nutmeg, and mace. Moisten it with sweet oil, and cover the veal
all over with it. Put the veal into a tureen, and let it set for several
hours or all night. Then take it out, covered as it is with the
seasoning, and wrap it in two sheets of white paper, well buttered, and
roast or bake it. When it is quite done, take off the paper, and scrape
off all the seasoning from the veal. Put the seasoning into a sauce-pan
with the gravy, the juice of half a lemon, a piece of butter rolled in
flour, and a little salt. Give it a boil, skim it well, and pour it over
the veal.
VEAL CUTLETS.
Make a seasoning of grated bread, minced ham, chopped parsley, salt,
pepper, and chopped mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it some yolk of
egg. Cut the veal into small thin slices, rub them all over with lard,
and then spread the seasoning over both sides. Wrap up each cutlet
carefully in white paper, oiled or buttered. Bake them slowly for three
quarters of an hour, and serve them up in the papers.
BLANQUETTE OR FRICASSEE OF VEAL.
Take the remains of a cold roast fillet, or loin of veal. Cut it into
small thin pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter
rolled in flour, salt, pepper, a few small onions minced, a bunch of
sweet-herbs chopped, and one or two laurel or peach-leaves. Mix all
together. Pour in a little warm water, and let it boil gently five
minutes or more. When you take it off, stir in some lemon-juice and some
yolk of egg slightly beaten.
GODIVEAU.
Take a large piece of fillet of veal, free from fat or skin. Mince it
small, and then pound it in a mortar till it is a smooth paste.
Afterwards rub it through a cullender or sieve.
Soak some slices of bread in warm milk, and rub the bread also through a
sieve. There must be an equal quantity of bread and veal. Take the same
proportion of butter, and beat it in a mortar with pepper, salt, nutmeg,
and chopped parsley to your taste. Then put all together. Beat two or
three eggs till very light, and add them gradually to the mixture. Make
it into round balls or into long rolls, and fry them in butter. Or you
may put it into a pie (without a lid) and bake it.
Godiveau is a very fine stuffing for poultry or wild fowl.
CALVES' LIVER BAKED.
Lard the liver with bacon, and let it lie three or four hours in a
covered tureen with a seasoning of parsley, shalots, laurel and thyme
chopped small, a little pepper and salt, and two table-spoonfuls of
sweet oil. Turn it several times. Then wrap it up in thin slices of
bacon or cold ham, and bake or roast it about an hour and a quarter. Add
to the gravy the yolk of an egg, and some minced onions and chopped
sweet-herbs.
CALVES' LIVER FRIED.
Cut the liver into thin slices, and put them into a frying-pan with a
piece of butter rolled in flour, some minced onions and a glass of white
wine, salt, pepper, and a little mace. Let it fry about ten minutes.
VEAL KIDNEYS.
Cut the kidneys into thin slices; having first soaked them in cold
water, rub them with a little salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with
flour, and a little parsley and onions minced fine. Fry them in butter,
adding a glass of champagne or other white wine.
Mutton kidneys may be done in the same manner.
Another way of dressing kidneys is to split them in half, season them
with salt and pepper, lard them, and broil them.
GRILLADES.
Cut slices from either a fillet of veal, a round of fresh beef, a leg of
mutton, or a leg of pork. Do not let them exceed the thickness of half
an inch. Put them into a stew-pan with a sufficient proportion of oil,
pepper, salt, and a little parsley and onion chopped fine. Stew them in
a very little water till half done. Then prepare some sheets of white
paper rubbed with oil or butter. Take out the slices of meat (covered
with this seasoning) and grate some bread crumbs over them. Fasten up
each slice in a piece of paper, and broil them on a gridiron over a slow
fire. Serve them up in the paper.
LIVER CAKE.
Take a pound and a half of grated bread, and two pounds of liver (either
calves' or pigs') a few onions, a little sage, some mushrooms, and a
laurel leaf, all chopped fine. Mince the liver also, and mix it with the
other ingredients, adding salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Butter a mould or a
very deep dish. Put the mixture into it, and let it bake an hour and a
half in a moderate oven. When done, turn it out.
It is eaten cold, cut in slices.
SIRLOIN OF BEEF.
Rub your beef all over with salt, and lard the lean part of it with
slips of fat bacon. Cover the meat with sheets of oiled or buttered
paper. Roast it in proportion to its size, between three and four hours.
Serve it up with its gravy, and have some onion sauce in a boat.
STEWED BEEF.
Take some slices of cold roast beef that has been under-done. Put them
into a stew-pan with a little gravy or broth, or if you have neither,
some warm water. Add a piece of butter rolled in flour, some capers, or
some pickled cucumbers chopped small, a little lemon-juice or vinegar,
and some salt and pepper. Let the beef simmer slowly, but do not allow
it to boil. Have ready some slices of bread (of the same size as the
slices of beef) and fry them in butter. Put some tomata sauce in the
bottom of a dish. Lay on it in a pile a few slices of beef and slices of
fried bread alternately. Pour the gravy over it, and send it to table.
Any other sort of meat may be done in the same manner.
BEEF STEAKS.
Cut slices of beef from the sirloin. Trim them neatly, and take off the
bone and the skin. To make them tender beat them on both sides with a
wooden beetle or with the end of a rolling-pin. Rub them with salt and
pepper. Warm a sufficient quantity of butter, and when it is soft spread
it over the steaks. Then sprinkle them with onions minced very fine.
Cover them up in a dish, and let them lie an hour or more in the
seasoning. Then broil them over a clear fire. Slice some cold boiled
potatoes, fry them in butter, and lay them round the steaks.
BEEF A LA MODE.
Take a round of fresh beef, and beat it well to make it tender. Rub it
all over with salt and pepper. Lard it on both sides with slips of
bacon. Lay it in a deep pan with some slices of bacon, a calves-foot, a
few onions, a carrot cut in pieces, a bunch of sweet herbs cut small,
one or two laurel leaves, some cloves, and a beaten nutmeg. Pour in a
half-pint of red wine, a half-pint of white wine, and a spoonful of
brandy. Let it stew slowly for at least six hours. Then take it out;
strain the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve it up.
A fillet of veal may be done in the same manner.
ROASTED HAM.
Let your ham soak all night in cold water, and then trim it handsomely,
having first taken out the bone by loosening the meat all round it, with
the point of a knife. Tie a broad tape round the ham to keep it in
shape. Then put it into a large pan with some sliced onions, some sprigs
of parsley, two or three laurel leaves, and a bottle of white wine.
Cover it, and let it lie in the seasoning twenty-four hours. Then roast
it, and baste it with the seasoning. A large ham will require four or
five hours to roast. A little before it is done, take off the skin and
sprinkle the ham with grated bread crumbs.
While the ham is roasting, stew together the bone and the trimmings and
scraps till they come to a jelly, which you must strain through a sieve.
When you take the ham from the spit (having removed the tape that has
been fastened round it) glaze it all over with the jelly, laid on with a
brush or a quill feather. Serve it up with the seasoning or marinade
under it.
If the ham is to be eaten cold, you may cover it all over the glazing
with cold boiled potatoes grated finely, so that it will look like a
large cake covered with icing. Ornament it with slices of boiled carrot,
beets, &c. scolloped and laid on the potatoes, in handsome forms, so as
to look like red and yellow flowering. Stick a large bunch of double
parsley in the centre.
A ham boiled in the usual manner may be ornamented in the same way;
first extracting the bone, and making the meat into a circular shape.
Instead of a mere bunch of double parsley, you may stick in the centre
of the ham a nosegay of flowers, formed of different culinary
vegetables, and cut into proper shape with a sharp pen-knife. All these
vegetables must be raw. The flowers intended to represent red roses must
be made of beets, the white roses of turnips, and the marigolds or other
deep yellow flowers must be cut out of carrots. The pieces of turnips
and beets must first be made with the pen-knife into the form of a ball,
on the surface of which the rose-leaves must be cut. The carrots may be
cut into flat slices, and then notched to look like marigolds or
chrysanthemums. Stick each flower on the end of a small wooden skewer,
which will answer for the stalk, but which must be concealed by thick
bunches of double parsley tied on so as to represent the green leaves.
Tie all the skewers together at the bottom with a pack-thread, and the
whole will have the effect of a handsome nosegay when placed in the
middle of the ham.
A round of cold a-la-mode beef may be ornamented with a bunch of these
flowers. Let the beef itself be covered all over with parsley, so as to
resemble a green bank.
FRIED HAM, WITH TOMATAS.
Fry some slices of cold boiled ham. Then fry some tomatas, allowing one
tomata to each slice of meat. Lay the tomatas on the ham, shake some
pepper over them, and send them to table.
ROASTED TONGUE.
Having soaked a large smoked tongue all night in cold water, parboil it
in a very little warm water with a slice of bacon, a bunch of sweet
herbs, and an onion or two stuck with cloves. When it is nearly done,
take it out, drain it, and lard it with large slips of bacon on the
upper side, and small pieces on the under side. Then put it on the spit
and roast it half an hour, and serve it up with pungent sauce (Sauce
Piquante.)
BAKED TONGUE.
Take a cold boiled tongue and cut it into slices. Put in the bottom of a
deep dish a little vinegar, with some capers, parsley and shalots minced
fine, and some grated bread, all mixed together. Lay the slices of
tongue upon this, and cover them with some more of the same seasoning.
Then grate some bread all over the top. Moisten the whole by pouring in
a little warm water. Put the dish into a stove moderately heated, or set
it on a slow furnace. Bake it till brown.
POTTED TONGUE.
Boil two smoked tongues. Skin them and cut them into thin slices. Put
the slices (a few at a time) into a mortar and beat them to a paste,
adding gradually a pound of butter. Then prepare an equal quantity of
the lean of stewed veal, and pound that also in the mortar (a little at
a time) with the same proportion of butter. Then make the veal and the
tongue into lumps, and put them alternately into your stone pots,
pressing them together so as to look like red and white marble. Have a
layer of veal at the top. Press the whole down very hard. Fill up the
pots with butter, boiled and skimmed and poured on warm. Tie them up
closely with parchment, and keep them in a cold but dry place.
When you use it, cut it in slices.
LEG OF MUTTON WITH OYSTERS.
Rub a leg of mutton all over with salt, and put it on the spit to roast
with a clear fire, basting it with its own gravy. When it is nearly
done, take it up and with a sharp knife make incisions all over it, and
stuff an oyster into every hole. Then put it again before the fire, to
finish roasting.
Before you serve it up, skim the gravy well, and give it a boil with a
glass of red wine.
CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON.
Cut a neck of mutton into chops, leaving a bone to each, but scraping
the end of the bone quite clean. Mix together some grated bread, and
some marjoram and onion chopped fine. Season it with pepper, salt, and
nutmeg. Having melted some butter, dip each chop into it, and then cover
them on both sides with the seasoning. Butter some half-sheets of white
paper, and put the cutlets into them, leaving the end of each bone to
stick out of the paper like a handle. Lay them on a gridiron, and broil
them for about twenty minutes on clear lively coals. Serve them up in
the papers.
Make a sauce of four shalots or little onions chopped fine, some gravy,
a little pepper and salt, and a spoonful of red wine. Boil this sauce
for a minute, and send it up in a boat.
PORK CUTLETS.
Mince together some onions, parsley, and a laurel leaf. Season it with
pepper, salt, and cloves. Cut your pork into thin steaks, and lay them
in this seasoning for five or six hours. Then broil or fry them with
the seasoning on them, and serve them up with sauce Robert, or with
tomata sauce.
LARDED RABBIT.
Lard a fine large rabbit, and put it into a stew-pan with a slice or two
of cold ham, a bunch of sweet-herbs, a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and
a gill of white wine. Stew it slowly, and, when it is quite done, strain
the gravy and pour it over the rabbit.
RABBITS IN PAPERS.
Take two young rabbits; cut off the limbs and put them aside. Cut the
flesh from the body, and chop it very fine, mixing it with shalots,
parsley, and mushrooms chopped also, and, if you choose, a clove of
garlic. Season it with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and moisten it with
sweet oil. Lay the legs of the rabbit in this mixture, for three or four
hours. Then take out separately each leg covered with the seasoning, lay
on it a thin slice of bacon or cold ham, and wrap it in a sheet of white
paper well buttered. Broil the limbs slowly on the gridiron, and serve
them up hot in the papers.
Fowls may be done in the same manner. Ducks also.
PILAU.
Take half a dozen slices of the lean of a leg of mutton, or of fillet of
veal. Put them into a stew-pan with six large onions, a carrot cut in
pieces, and some parsley, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste.
Add a tea-spoonful of saffron, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a
little boiling water. Let it stew for an hour, and skim it well.
Have ready a pound of rice boiled soft and drained. Mix with it a large
piece of butter. Put some rice in the bottom of a deep dish, and lay on
it first the seasoning, and then the slices of meat in a pile. Keep the
remainder of the rice over it, and set it on the stove or in the oven
for ten minutes.
VEAL SWEETBREADS.
Take three sweet-breads, and soak them three or four hours in milk. Then
wipe them dry, and lard them. Make a seasoning of sweet-herbs and
mushrooms chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of cold ham or bacon
scraped or minced, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to your taste, and a
table-spoonful of sweet-oil. Mix the seasoning very well together, and
put it into a stew-pan with the sweet-breads, a piece of butter rolled
in flour, a little water or broth, and the same quantity of wine. Stew
it about ten minutes. Then take out the sweet-breads, lay them in a deep
dish, pour the seasoning over them, and let them get cold. Next prepare
some cases of white paper, oil them, and cover the inside with grated
bread. Put a sweet-bread into each paper-case, with some of the
seasoning at bottom and top. Close the cases, put them in an oven, and
bake them long enough to color the sweet-breads. Serve them up in the
papers.
Set the gravy over the fire, and when it simmers take it off, and stir
in the yolk of an egg slightly beaten. Keep it covered for a few
minutes, and then serve it up in a boat.
PART THE THIRD.
GAME AND POULTRY.
A SALMI.
Cut off the flesh from the bodies of a pair of cold pheasants,
partridges or wild-ducks, or an equal quantity of small birds. Beat it
in a mortar, moistening it frequently with a little broth or gravy. Then
pass the whole through a cullender or sieve. Put it into a stew-pan with
a piece of butter about the size of a walnut, rolled in flour; half a
pint of port wine or claret; two whole onions, and a bunch of
sweet-herbs. Let it boil half an hour, and then stir in two
table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and the juice of a lemon.
In another pan stew the legs and wings of the birds, but do not let them
boil. Stew them in butter rolled in flour, seasoned with pepper and
salt. Cut some slices of bread into triangular pieces, and fry them in
butter. Lay them in the bottom of a dish, put the legs and wings upon
them, and then the other part of the stew. Garnish the edge with slices
of lemon, handsomely notched with a knife.
If the Salmi is made of partridges, use oranges instead of lemons for
the juice and garnishing.
COLD SALMI.
This is prepared on the table. Take the liver of a roast goose, turkey,
or ducks. Put some of the gravy on a plate, cut up the liver in it, and
bruise it with the back of a spoon or a silver fork. Add three
tea-spoonfuls of olive oil, the juice of a lemon, and cayenne pepper and
salt to your taste. Mix it well. When the bird is cut up, eat with it
some of this sauce.
RAGOOED LIVERS.
Take the livers of half a dozen fowls or other poultry, a dozen
mushrooms, a bunch of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic or a small onion, a
table-spoonful of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of white wine, and
sufficient warm water to keep the ingredients moist. Season it with salt
and pepper. Stew all together, and skim it well. Before you send it to
table, stir in the yolks of two or three beaten eggs, and two spoonfuls
of cream.
A FINE HASH.
Take any cold game or poultry that you have. You may mix several kinds
together. Some sausages, of the best sort, will be an improvement. Chop
all together, and mix with it bread crumbs, chopped onions and parsley,
and the yolks of two or three hard-boiled eggs. Put it into a sauce-pan
with a proportionate piece of butter rolled in flour. Moisten it with
broth, gravy, or warm water, and let it stew gently for half an hour.
Cold veal or fresh pork may be hashed in the same manner.
MARINADE OF FOWLS.
Take a pair of fowls, skin and cut them up. Wash them in lukewarm water.
Drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with some butter. Season them
to your taste with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice. Add parsley, onions,
and a laurel leaf. Moisten them with warm water, and let them stew
slowly on hot coals for two or three hours. Clear them from the
seasoning and drain them. Then lay them in a dish, and grate bread
crumbs over them. Whip some white of egg to a stiff froth, and cover
with it all the pieces of fowl.
FRICASSEE OF FOWLS.
Skin and cut up your fowls, and soak them two hours in cold water, to
make them white. Drain them. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of
butter, and a table-spoonful of flour. Stir them together till the
butter has melted. Add salt, pepper, a grated nutmeg, and a bunch of
sweet-herbs. Pour in half a pint of cream. Put in the fowls, and let
them stew three quarters of an hour. Before you send them to table, stir
in the yolks of three beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon.
The Fricassee will be greatly improved by some mushrooms stewed with the
fowl.
To keep the fricassee white, cover it (while stewing) with a sheet of
buttered paper laid over the fowls. The lid of the stew-pan must be kept
on tightly.
FOWLS WITH TARRAGON.
Pick two handfuls of tarragon (the leaves from the stalks) and chop half
of it fine with the livers of the fowls. Mix it with butter, salt, and
whole pepper. Stuff your fowls with it. Lard them and wrap them in
papers buttered or oiled.
Melt some butter rolled in flour, and stir into it the rest of the
tarragon. Moisten it with a little water or milk. Stir in the yolks of
two beaten eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Serve it up as gravy.
Strew over the fowls some sprigs of fresh tarragon.
A STEWED FOWL.
Take a large fowl, and put it into a stew-pan with two ounces or more of
butter, some thin slices of cold ham, a little parsley and onion chopped
fine, and some nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Then pour in half a tumbler of
white wine. You may add, if you choose, six table-spoonfuls of boiled
rice, which you must afterwards serve up under the fowl and ham. Let it
stew slowly for two hours, with just sufficient water to keep it from
burning.
Before you send it to table, go all over the fowl with a feather or
brush dipped in yolk of egg. You may add to the stew a dozen small
onions, to be laid round the fowl with the slices of ham.
CHICKENS IN JELLY.
Cold chickens, pigeons, and game, look very handsome in jelly. To make
this jelly, take four calves-feet (with the skin on) and boil them to a
strong jelly with an ounce of isinglass and three quarts of water,
carefully skimming off the fat. The calves-feet must be boiled the day
before the jelly is wanted, and when it is cold scrape off all the
sediment that adheres to it. Then boil the jelly with the addition of
the whites and shells of six eggs, the juice of three lemons, three or
four sticks of cinnamon, half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a pint of
Malaga or other sweet wine. Let it boil hard for five or six minutes,
but do not stir it. Strain it several times through a flannel bag into a
deep white pan, but do not on any consideration squeeze or press the
bag, as that will entirely spoil the transparency of the jelly. After
it has done dripping through the bag, take out all the ingredients (as
they are now of no farther use) and wash the bag clean. Then pour the
jelly into it again, and let it strain. Repeat this till it is perfectly
clear and bright; washing the bag every time. Sometimes (but not often)
it will be clear at the first straining.
Put a little of the jelly into the bottom of a deep dish or bowl, and
set it in a cold place. When it has congealed and is firm, lay your
chickens on it with the breasts downwards. Having kept the remainder of
the jelly warm, to prevent its congealing too soon, pour it over the
fowls. Let it stand all night or till it is perfectly firm. Then set
your dish or bowl in warm water for a moment, to loosen the jelly. Lay
over it the dish in which you intend to serve it up, and turn it out
carefully. If you fear that you will not be able to turn it out without
breaking the jelly, you may prepare it at the beginning in a deep china
dish fit to send to table.
If you put too much water to the calves-feet, the jelly will never be
firm, till it is boiled over again with more isinglass. The generality
of cooks are in the habit of putting too much water to every thing, and
should be cautioned accordingly.
PULLED CHICKENS.
Boil a pair of fowls till they are about half done. Then skin them, and
pull the flesh from the bones in pieces about a finger in breadth and
half a finger in length. Take a few table-spoonfuls of the liquor they
were boiled in, and mix it with half a pint of boiling cream. Put it
into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour; pepper, salt,
and nutmeg; a little chopped parsley; and a table-spoonful of white
wine. Put in the pieces of chicken, and stew them slowly till quite
done.
STEWED TURKEY, OR TURKEY EN DAUBE.
Take a large turkey; lard it and stuff it as for roasting. Then cover it
all over with a seasoning made of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sweet-herbs,
parsley and onions, minced fine. Put it into a stew-pan, with some
slices of bacon, one or two calves-feet, some onions and carrots, one or
two laurel leaves, a few cloves, a beaten nutmeg, salt, pepper, and, if
you choose, a clove of garlic. Pour in a pint of water, and a pint of
white wine or brandy.
Put on the cover of the stew-pan, and lay round its edge on the outside
a wet cloth, which must be kept wet. Stew it slowly for five or six
hours or more, and turn the turkey when about half done. When it is
finished, withdraw the fire, and skim and strain the gravy. Serve up the
turkey with the gravy under it.
A goose done this way is very fine.
A round of beef may be stewed in the same manner. It will be the better
for lying all night in the seasoning, and it should be put in to stew
early in the morning.
ROASTED TURKEY.
Rub the turkey all over with salt. Then lard it. You may stuff it with
sausage-meat; or with chestnuts previously boiled, peeled, and mashed.
Or, you may make a force-meat stuffing of the liver, heart, and gizzard,
chopped fine, and mixed with chopped parsley, onions, sweet-herbs,
grated bread, butter, lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, and the yolk of
one or two eggs.
A turkey of moderate size will require at least two hours to roast.
Thicken the gravy with yolk of egg stirred in just before you send it to
table.
A cold roast turkey should be larded and served up with large spoonfuls
of stiff currant jelly dropped all over it.
You may roast a goose in the same manner.
POTTED GOOSE.