fruitful in vines and pastures: Amongst them is a breed of the finest
goats in the world. Acquebellet is the last, and soon after we
entered Pont Beauvoisin, the frontier town of France, whose bridge
parts this kingdom, and the dominions of Savoy. The same night we
arrived late at this town, where I have had nothing to do, but to
take care of my health. I think myself already out of any danger;
and am determined, that the sore throat, which still remains, shall
not confine me long. I am impatient to see the curiosities of this
famous city, and more impatient to continue my journey to Paris, from
whence I hope to write you a more diverting letter than 'tis possible
for me to do now, with a mind weakened by sickness, a head muddled
with spleen, from a sorry inn, and a chamber crammed with mortifying
objects of apothecaries vials and bottles.--I am, &c. &c.
LET. XLVIII.
TO MR POPE.
_Lyons, Sept_. 28. O. S. 1718.
I RECEIVED yours here, and should thank you for the pleasure you seem
to enjoy from my return; but I can hardly forbear being angry at you
for rejoicing at what displeases me so much. You will think this but
an odd compliment on my side. I'll assure you, 'tis not from
insensibility of the joy of seeing my friends; but when I consider,
that I must, at the same time, see and hear a thousand disagreeable
impertinents; that I must receive and pay visits, make courtesies and
assist at tea-tables, where I shall be half killed with questions:
and, on the other part, that I am a creature that cannot serve any
body, but with insignificant good wishes; and that my presence is not
a necessary good to any one member of my native country, I think I
might much better have staid where ease and quiet made up the
happiness of my indolent life.--I should certainly be melancholy, if
I pursued this theme one line farther. I will rather fill the
remainder of this paper with the inscriptions on the tables of brass,
that are placed on each side of the town-house.
I. T A B L E.
Maererum. nostr : : : : : sii : : : : : Equidem. primam. omnium.
illum. cogitationem. hominum. quam. maxime. primam. occursuram. mihi.
provideo. deprecor. ne. quasi. novam. istam. rem. introduci.
exhorreseatis. sed. illa. po. tius. cogitetis. quam. multa. in. hac.
civitate. novata. sint. et. quidem. statim. ab. origine. urbis.
nostrae. in. quod. formas. statusque. res. p. nostra. diducta. sit.
Quondam. reges. hanc. tenuere. urbem. ne. tamen. domesticis.
successoribus. eam. tradere. contigit. supervenere. alieni. et.
quidam. externi. ut. Numa. Romulo. successerit. ex. Sabinis. veniens.
vicinus. quidem. sed. tunc. externus. ut. Anco. Marcio. Priseus,
Tarquinius. propter. temeratum. sanguinem. quod. patre. de. marato.
Corinthio. natus. eret. et. Tarquiniensi. matre. generosa. sed.
inopi. ut. quae. tali. marito. necesse. habuerit. succumbere. cum.
domi. repelleretur. a. gerendis. honoribus. postquam. Romam.
migravit. regnum. adeptus. est. huie. quoque. et. filio. nepotive.
ejus. nam. et. hoc. inter. auctores. discrepat. incretus. Servius.
Tullius. si. nostros. sequimur. captiva. natus. ocresia. si. tuscos.
coeli. quondam. vivennae. sodalis. fidelissimus. omnisque. ejus.
casus. comes. postquam. varia. fortuna. exactus. cum. omnibus.
reliquis. coeliani. exercitus. Etruria. excessit. montem. Coelium.
occupavit. et. a. duce. suo. Coelio. ita. appellitatus. mutatoque.
nomine. nam. tusce. mastarna. ei. nomen. erat. ita. appellatus. est.
ut. dixi. et. regnum. summa. cum. reip. utilitate. obtinuit. diende.
postquam. Tarquini. Superbi. mores. invisi. civitati. nostrae. esse.
coeperunt. qua. ipsius. qua. filiorum ejus nempe. pertaesum. est.
mentes. regni. et. ad. consules. annuos. magistratus. administratio.
reip. translata. est.
Quid. nunc. commemorem. dictaturae, hoc. ipso. consulari. imperium.
valentius. repertum. apud. majores. nostros quo. in. asperioribus.
bellis. aut. in. civili. motu. difficiliori. uterentur. aut. in.
auxilium. plebis. creatos. tribunos. plebei. quid. a. consulibus. ad.
decemviros. translatum. imperium. solutoque postea decemvirali.
regno. ad. consules. rursus. reditum. quid. im : : : : v ris.
distributum. consulare, imperium. tribunosque. militum. consulari.
imperio. appellatus. qui. seni. et octoni. crearentur. quid.
communicatos. postremo. cum. plebe. honores. non. imperi. solum. sed.
sacerdotorum. quoque. jamsi. narrem. bella. a. quibus. coeperint.
majores. nostri. et. quo. processerimus. vereor. ne. nimio.
insolentior. esse. videar. et. quaesisse. jactationem. gloriae.
prolati. imperi. ultra. oceanum. sed. illo. C. Porius. revertar.
civitatem.
II. T A B L E.
: : : : : : : : : : : : : : : sane : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : : :
: : : nova : : : divus : aug : : : no : lus. et. patruus. Ti. Caesar.
omnem. florem. ubique. coloniarum. ac. municipiorum. bonorum.
scilicet. virorum. et. locupletium. in. hac. curia. esse. voluit.
quid. ergo. non. italicus. senator. provinciali, potior. est. jam.
vobis. cum. hanc. partem. censurae. meae. approbare. coepero. quid.
de. ca. re. sentiam. rebus. ostendam. sed. ne. provinciales. quidem.
si. modo. ornare. curiam. poterint. rejiciendos. puto.
Ornatissima. ecce. colonia. valentissimaque. Riennensium. quam.
longo. jam. tempore. senatores. huic. curiae. consert. ex. qua.
colonia. inter. paucos. equestris. ordinis. ornamentum. L. restinum.
familiarissime. diligo. et. hodieque. in. rebus. meis. detineo.
cujus. liberi. fruantur. quaeso. primo. sacerdotiorum. gradu. post.
modo. cum. annis. promoturi. dignitatis. suae. incrementa. ut. dirum.
nomen. latronis. taceam. et. odi. illud. palestricum. prodiguum.
quod. ante. in. domum. consulatum. intulit. quam. colonia. sua.
solidum. civitatis. Romanae. beneficium. consecuta. est. idem. de
fratre. ejus. possum. dicere. miserabili. quidem. indignissimoque.
hoc. casu. ut. vobis. utilis. senator. esse. non. possit.
Tempus. est. jam. Ti. Caesar. Germanice. detegere. te. patribus.
conscriptis. quo. tendat. oratio. tua. jam. enim. ad. extremos.
sines. Galliae. Narbonensis. venisti.
Tot. ecce. insignes. juvenes. quot. intueor. non. magis. sunt.
poenitenci. senatorib. quam. poenitet. Persicum. nobilissimum. virum.
amicum. meum. inter. imagines. majorum. suorum. Allorogici. nomen.
legere. quod. si. hae. ita. esse. consenti. is. quid. ultra.
desideratis. quam. ut. vobis. digito. demonstrem. solum. ipsum.
ultra. sines. provinciae. Narbonensis jam. vobis. senatores. mittere.
quando. ex. Lugduno. habere. nos. nostri. ordinis. viros. non.
poenitet. timide. quidim. p. c. egressus. adsuetos. familiaresque.
vobis. provinciarum, terminos. sum. sed. destricte jam comatae.
Galliae. causa. agenda. est. in. qua. si. quis. hoc. intuetur. quod.
bello. per. decem. annos. exercuerunt. divom. julium. idem opponat.
centum. annorum. immobilem. fidem. obsequiumque. multis. tripidis.
rebus. nostris plusquam. expertum. illi. patri. meo. Druso.
Germaniam. subigenti. tutam. quiete. sua secaramque. a tergo pacem.
praestiterunt. et. quidem. cum. ad. census. novo. tum. opere. et. in.
adsueto. Galliis. ad. bellum. avocatus. esset. quod. opus. quam.
arduum. sit. nobis. nunc. cum. maxime. quamvis. nihil. ultra. quam.
ut. publice. notae. sint. facultates. nostrae. exquiratur. nimis.
magne. experimento. cognoscimus.
I WAS also shewed without the gate of St Justinus, some remains of a
Roman aqueduct; and behind the monastery of St Mary, there are the
ruins of the imperial palace, where the emperor Claudius was born,
and where Severus lived. The great cathedral of St John is a good
Gothic building, and its clock much admired by the Germans. In one
of the most conspicuous parts of the town, is the late king's statue
set up, trampling upon mankind. I cannot forbear saying one word
here, of the French statues (for I never intend to mention any more
of them) with their gilded full-bottomed wigs. If their king had
intended to express, in one image, _ignorance, ill taste_, and
_vanity_, his sculptors could have made no other figure, so proper
for that purpose, as this statue, which represents the odd mixture of
an old beau, who had a mind to be a hero, with a bushel of curled
hair on his head, and a gilt truncheon in his hand.--The French have
been so voluminous on the history of this town, I need say nothing of
it. The houses are tolerably well built, and the Belle Cour well
planted, from whence is seen the celebrated joining of the Soane and
Rhone.
_"Ubi Rhodanus ingens amne praerapido fluit
"Ararque dubitans quo suos fluctus agat."_
I have had time to see every thing with great leisure, having been
confined several days to this town by a swelling in my throat, the
remains of a fever, occasioned by a cold I got in the damps of the
Alps. The doctors here threaten me with all sorts of distempers, if
I dare to leave them; but I, that know the obstinacy of it, think it
just as possible to continue my way to Paris, with it, as to go about
the streets of Lyons; and am determined to pursue my journey
to-morrow, in spite of doctors, apothecaries, and sore throats.
WHEN you see Lady R----, tell her I have received her letter, and
will answer it from Paris, believing that the place that she would
most willingly hear of. I am, &c. &c:
LET. XLIX.
TO THE LADY R----.
_Paris, Oct_. 10. O. S. 1718.
I CANNOT give my dear Lady R---- a better proof of the pleasure I
have in writing to her, than chusing to do it in this seat of various
amusements, where I am _accableed_ with visits, and those so full of
vivacity and compliments, that 'tis full employment enough to
hearken, whether one answers or not. The French ambassadress at
Constantinople has a very considerable and numerous family here, who
all come to see me, and are never weary of making inquiries. The air
of Paris has already had a good effect on me; for I was never in
better health, though I have been extremely ill all the road from
Lyons to this place. You may judge how agreeable the journey has
been to me; which did not want that addition to make me dislike it.
I think nothing so terrible as objects of misery, except one had the
God-like attribute of being capable to redress them; and all the
country villages of France shew nothing else. While the post horses
are changed, the whole town comes out to beg, with such miserable
starved faces, and thin tattered cloths, they need no other
eloquence, to persuade one of the wretchedness of their condition.
This is all the French magnificence, till you come to Fountainbleau,
when you are shewed one thousand five hundred rooms in the king's
hunting palace. The apartments of the royal family are very large,
and richly gilt; but I saw nothing in the architecture or painting
worth remembering. The long gallery, built by Henry IV. has
prospects of all the king's houses. Its walls are designed after the
taste of those times, but appear now very mean. The park is, indeed,
finely wooded and watered, the trees well grown and planted, and in
the fish-ponds are kept tame carp, said to be, some of them, eighty
years of age. The late king passed some months every year at this
seat; and all the rocks round it, by the pious sentences inscribed
on them, shew the devotion in fashion at his court, which I believe
died with him; at least, I see no exterior marks of it at Paris,
where all peoples thoughts seem to be on present diversion.
THE fair of St Lawrence is now in season. You may be sure I have
been carried thither, and think it much better disposed than ours of
Bartholomew. The shops being all set in rows so regularly and well
lighted, they made up a very agreeable spectacle. But I was not at
all satisfied with the _grossierte_ of their harlequin, no more than
with their music at the opera, which was abominably grating, after
being used to that of Italy. Their house is a booth, compared to
that of the Hay-market, and the play-house not so neat as that of
Lincoln's-Inn-fields; but then it must be owned, to their praise,
their tragedians are much beyond any of ours. I should hardly allow
Mrs O----d a better place than to be confidante to La ----. I have
seen the tragedy of Bajazet so well represented, that I think our
best actors can be only said to speak, but these to feel; and 'tis
certainly infinitely more moving to see a man appear unhappy, than to
hear him say that he is so, with a jolly face, and a stupid smirk in
his countenance.--_A propos_ of countenances, I must tell you
something of the French ladies; I have seen all the beauties, and
such--(I can't help making use of the coarse word) nauseous
creatures! so fantastically absurd in their dress! so monstrously
unnatural in their paints! their hair cut short, and curled round
their faces, and so loaded with powder, that it makes it look like
white wool! and on their cheeks to their chins, unmercifully laid on
a shining red japan, that glistens in a most flaming manner, so that
they seem to have no resemblance to human faces. I am apt to
believe, that they took the first hint of their dress from a fair
sheep newly ruddled. 'Tis with pleasure I recollect my dear pretty
country-women: and if I was writing to any body else, I should say,
that these grotesque daubers give me still a higher esteem of the
natural charms of dear Lady R----'s auburne (sic) hair, and the
lively colours of her unsullied complexion. I am, &c. &c.
_P. S._ I have met the Abbe here, who desires me to make his
compliments to you.
LET. L.
TO MR T----.
_Paris, Oct_. 16. O. S. 1718.
YOU see I'm just to my word, in writing to you from Paris, where I
was very much surprised to meet my sister; I need not add, very much
pleased. She as little expected to see me as I her (having not
received my late letters); and this meeting would shine under the
hand of de Seuderie; but I shall not imitate his style so far, as to
tell you how often we embraced, how she inquired, by what odd chance
I returned from Constantinople? And I answered her by asking, what
adventure brought her to Paris? To shorten the story, all questions,
and answers, and exclamations, and compliments being over, we agreed
upon running about together, and have seen Versailles, Trianon,
Marli, and St Cloud. We had an order for the water to play for our
diversion, and I was followed thither by all the English at Paris. I
own, Versailles appeared to me rather vast than beautiful; and after
having seen the exact proportions of the Italian buildings, I thought
the irregularity of it shocking.
THE king's cabinet of antiques and medals, is, indeed, very richly
furnished. Amongst that collection, none pleased so well, as the
apotheosis of Germanicus, on a large agate, which is one of the most
delicate pieces of the kind that I remember to have seen. I observed
some ancient statues of great value. But the nauseous flattery, and
tawdry pencil of Le Brun, are equally disgusting in the gallery. I
will not pretend to describe to you the great apartment, the vast
variety of fountains, the theatre, the grove of Esop's (sic) fables,
&c. all which you may read very amply particularized in some of the
French authors, that have been paid for these descriptions.
Trianon, in its littleness, pleased me better than Versailles; Marli,
better than either of them; and St Cloud best of all; having the
advantage of the Seine running at the bottom of the gardens, the
great cascade, &c. You may find information in the aforesaid books,
if you have any curiosity to know the exact number of the statues,
and how many feet they cast up the water.
WE saw the king's pictures in the magnificent house of the duke
D'Antin, who has the care of preserving them till his majesty is of
age. There are not many but of the best hands. I looked, with great
pleasure on the arch-angel of Raphael, where the sentiments of
superior beings are as well expressed as in Milton. You won't
forgive me, if I say nothing of the Thuilleries (sic), much finer than
our Mall; and the Cour, more agreeable than our Hyde-park, the high
trees giving shade in the hottest season. At the Louvre, I had the
opportunity of seeing the king, accompanied by the Duke regent. He is
tall, and well shaped but has not the air of holding the crown so
many years as his grandfather. And now I am speaking of the Court, I
must say, I saw nothing in France that delighted me so much, as to
see an Englishman (at least a Briton) absolute at Paris, I mean Mr
Law, who treats their dukes and peers extremely _de haut en bas_, and
is treated by them with the utmost submission and respect.--Poor
souls!--This reflection on their abject slavery, puts me in mind of
the _place des victoires_; but I will not take up your time, and my
own, with such descriptions, which are too numerous.
IN general, I think Paris has the advantage of London, in the neat
pavement of the streets, and the regular lighting of them at nights,
in the proportion of the streets, the houses being all built of
stone, and most of those belonging to people of quality being
beautified by gardens. But we certainly may boast of a town very
near twice as large; and when I have said that, I know nothing else
we surpass it in. I shall not continue here long; if you have any
thing to command me during my short stay, write soon, and I shall
take pleasure in obeying you. I am, &c. &c.
LET. LI.
TO THE ABBOT ----.
_Dover, Oct_. 31. O. S. 1718.
I AM willing to take your word for it, that I shall really oblige
you, by letting you know, as soon as possible, my safe passage over
the water. I arrived this morning at Dover, after being tossed a
whole night in the packet-boat, in so violent a manner, that the
master, considering the weakness of his vessel, thought it proper to
remove the mail, and give us notice of the danger. We called a
little fishing boat, which could hardly make up to us; while all the
people on board us were crying to Heaven. 'Tis hard to imagine one's
self in a scene of greater horror than on such an occasion: and yet,
shall I own it to you? though I was not at all willingly to be
drowned, I could not forbear being entertained at the double distress
of a fellow-passenger. She was an English lady that I had met at
Calais, who desired me to let her go over with me in my cabin. She
had bought a fine point-head, which she was contriving to conceal
from the custom-house officers. When the wind grew high, and our
little vessel cracked, she fell very heartily to her prayers, and
thought wholly of her soul. When it seemed to abate, she returned to
the worldly care of her head-dress, and addressed herself to
me--_"Dear madam, will you take care of this point? if it should be
"lost!--Ah, Lord, we shall all be lost!--Lord have mercy on my
"soul!--Pray, madam, take care of this head-dress."_ This easy
transition from her soul to her head-dress, and the alternate agonies
that both gave her, made it hard to determine which she thought of
greatest value. But, however, the scene was not so diverting, but I
was glad to get rid of it, and be thrown into the little boat, though
with some hazard of breaking my neck. It brought me safe hither; and
I cannot help looking with partial eyes on my native land. That
partiality was certainly given us by nature, to prevent rambling, the
effect of an ambitious thirst after knowledge, which we are not
formed to enjoy. All we get by it, is a fruitless desire of mixing
the different pleasures and conveniencies which are given to the
different parts of the world, and cannot meet in any one of them.
After having read all that is to be found in the languages I am
mistress of, and having decayed my sight by midnight studies, I envy
the easy peace of mind of a ruddy milk-maid, who, undisturbed by
doubt, hears the sermon, with humility, every Sunday, not having
confounded the sentiments of natural duty in her head by the
vain-inquiries of the schools, who may be more learned, yet, after
all, must remain as ignorant. And, after having seen part of Asia
and Africa, and almost made the tour of Europe, I think the honest
English squire more happy, who verily believes the Greek wines less
delicious than March beer; that the African fruits have not so fine a
flavour as golden pippins; that the Beca figuas of Italy are not so
well tasted as a rump of beef; and that, in short, there is no
perfect enjoyment of this life out of Old England. I pray God I may
think so for the rest of my life; and, since I must be contented with
our scanty allowance of day-light, that I may forget the enlivening
sun of Constantinople. I am, &c. &c.
LET. LII.
TO MR P----.
_Dover, Nov_. 1. O. S. 1718.
I Have this minute received a letter of yours, sent me from Paris. I
believe and hope I shall very soon see both you and Mr Congreve; but
as I am here in an inn, where we stay to regulate our march to
London, bag and baggage, I shall employ some of my leisure time, in
answering that part of yours, that seems to require an answer.
I MUST applaud your good nature, in supposing, that your pastoral
lovers (vulgarly called hay-makers) would have lived in everlasting
joy and harmony, if the lightning had not interrupted their scheme of
happiness. I see no reason to imagine, that John Hughes and Sarah
Drew, were either wiser or more virtuous than their neighbours. That
a well-set man of twenty-five should have a fancy to marry a brown
woman of eighteen, is nothing marvellous; and I cannot help thinking,
that had they married, their lives would have passed in the common
track with their fellow parishioners. His endeavouring to shield her
from a storm, was a natural action, and what he would have certainly
done for his horse, if he had been in the same situation. Neither am
I of opinion, that their sudden death was a reward of their mutual
virtue. You know the Jews were reproved for thinking a village
destroyed by fire, more wicked than those that had escaped the
thunder. Time and chance happen to all men. Since you desire me to
try my skill in an epitaph, I think the following lines perhaps more
just, tho' not so poetical as yours.
_Here lies John Hughes and Sarah Drew;
Perhaps you'll say, What's that to you?
Believe me, friend, much may be said
On that poor couple that are dead.
On Sunday next they should have married;
But see how oddly things are carried!
On Thursday last it rain'd and lighten'd,
These tender lovers sadly frighten'd,
Shelter'd beneath the cocking hay,
In hopes to pass the time away,
But the_ BOLD THUNDER _found them out,
(Commission'd for that end no doubt)
And seizing on their trembling breath,
Consign'd them to the shades of death.
Who knows if 'twas not kindly done?
For had they seen the next year's fun,
A beaten wife and cockold swain
Had jointly curs'd the marriage chain:
Now they are happy in their doom_,
FOR POPE HAS WROTE UPON THEIR TOMB.
I CONFESS, these sentiments are not altogether so heroic as yours;
but I hope you will forgive them in favour of the two last lines.
You see how much I esteem the honour you have done them; though I
am not very impatient to have the same, and had rather continue to be
your stupid _living_ humble servant, than be _celebrated_ by all the
pens in Europe.
I WOULD write to Mr C----; but suppose you will read this to him, if
he inquires after me.
LET. LIII.
[Footnote: This and the following letters are now first published.]
TO LADY ----.
_January_ 13. 1715-16.