opportunity of seeing a Turkish bride received there, and all the
ceremony used on that occasion, which made me recollect the
epithalamium of Helen, by Theocritus; and it seems to me, that the
same customs have continued ever since. All the she-friends,
relations and acquaintance of the two families, newly allied, meet at
the bagnio; several others go, out Of curiosity, and I believe there
were that day two hundred women. Those that were, or had been
married, placed themselves round the rooms, on the marble sofas; but
the virgins very hastily threw off their clothes, and appeared
without other ornament or covering, than their own long hair braided
with pearl or ribbon. Two of them met the bride at the door,
conducted by her mother and another grave relation. She was a
beautiful maid of about seventeen, very richly dressed, and shining
with jewels, but was presently reduced to the state of nature. Two
others filled silver gilt pots with perfume, and began the
procession, the rest following in pairs, to the number of thirty.
The leaders sung an epithalamium, answered by the others in chorus,
and the two last led the fair bride, her eyes fixed on the ground,
with a charming affectation of modesty. In this order they marched
round the three largest rooms of the bagnio. 'Tis not easy to
represent to you the beauty of this sight, most of them being well
proportioned and white skinned; all of them perfectly smooth and
polished by the frequent use of bathing. After having made their
tour, the bride was again led to every matron round the rooms, who
saluted her with a compliment and a present, some of jewels, others
of pieces of stuff, handkerchiefs or little gallantries of that
nature, which she thanked them for, by kissing their hands. I was
very well pleased with having seen this ceremony; and you may believe
me, the Turkish ladies have, at least, as much wit and civility, nay
liberty, as among us. 'Tis true, the same customs that give them so
many opportunities of gratifying their evil inclinations (if they
have any), also put it very fully in the power of their husbands to
revenge themselves, if they are discovered; and I do not doubt, but
they suffer sometimes for their indiscretions in a very severe
manner. About two months ago, there was found at day break, not very
far from my house, the bleeding body of a young woman, naked, only
wrapped in a course sheet, with two wounds of a knife, one in her
side, and another in her breast. She was not quite cold, and was so
surprisingly beautiful, that there were very few men in Pera, that
did not go to look upon her; but it was not possible for any body to
know her, no woman's face being known. She was supposed to have been
brought, in the dead of the night, from the Constantinople side, and
laid there. Very little inquiry was made about the murderer, and the
corpse was privately buried without noise. Murder is never pursued
by the king's officers, as with us. 'Tis the business of the next
relations to revenge the dead person; and if they like better to
compound the matter for money (as they generally do) there is no more
said of it. One would imagine this defect in their government should
make such tragedies very frequent, yet they are extremely rare; which
is enough to prove the people are not naturally cruel. Neither do I
think, in many other particulars, they deserve the barbarous
character we give them. I am well acquainted with a Christian woman
of quality, who made it her choice to live with a Turkish husband,
and is a very agreeable sensible lady. Her story is so
extraordinary, I cannot forbear relating it; but I promise you, it
shall be in as few words as I can possibly express it.
SHE is a Spaniard, and was at Naples with her family, When that
kingdom was part of the Spanish dominion. Coming from thence in a
felucca, accompanied by her brother, they were attacked by the
Turkish admiral, boarded and taken.--And now how shall I modestly
tell you the rest of her adventure? The same accident happened to
her, that happened to the fair Lucretia so many years before her.
But she was too good a Christian to kill herself, as that heathenish
Roman did. The admiral was so much charmed with the beauty and
long-suffering of the fair captive, that, as his first compliment, he
gave immediate liberty to her brother and attendants, who made haste
to Spain, and, in a few months, sent the sum of four thousand pounds
sterling, as a ransom for his sister. The Turk took the money, which
he presented to her, and told her she was at liberty. But the lady
very discreetly weighed the different treatment she was likely to
find in her native country. Her relations (as the kindest thing they
could do for her in her present circumstances) would certainly
confine her to a nunnery for the rest of her days.--Her infidel
lover was very handsome, very tender, very fond of her, and lavished
at her feet all the Turkish magnificence. She answered him very
resolutely, that her liberty was not so precious to her as her
honour; that he could no way restore that, but by marrying her; and
she therefore desired him to accept the ransom as her portion, and
give her the satisfaction of knowing, that no man could boast of her
favours, without being her husband. The admiral was transported at
this kind offer, and sent back the money to her relations, saying, he
was too happy in her possession. He married her, and never took any
other wife, and (as she says herself) she never had reason to repent
the choice she made. He left her, some years after, one of the
richest widows in Constantinople. But there is no remaining
honourably a single woman, and that consideration has obliged her to
marry the present captain bassa (i.e. admiral) his successor.--I am
afraid that you will think my friend fell in love with her ravisher;
but I am willing to take her word for it, that she acted wholly on
principles of honour, though I think she might be reasonably touched
at his generosity, which is often found amongst the Turks of rank.
'TIS a degree of generosity to tell the truth, and 'tis very rare
that any Turk will assert a solemn falsehood. I don't speak of the
lowest sort; for as there is a great deal of ignorance, there is very
little virtue amongst them; and false witnesses are much cheaper than
in Christendom; those wretches not being punished (even when they are
publicly detected) with the rigour they ought to be.
NOW I am speaking of their law, I don't know whether I have ever
mentioned to you one custom peculiar to their country, I mean
_adoption_, very common amongst the Turks, and yet more amongst the
Greeks and Armenians. Not having it in their power to give their
estates to a friend or distant relation; to avoid its falling into
the grand signior's treasury, when they are not likely to have any
children of their own, they chuse some pretty child of either sex,
amongst the meanest people, and carry the child and its parents
before the cadi, and there declare they receive it for their heir.
The parents, at the same time, renounce all future claim to it; a
writing is drawn and witnessed, and a child thus adopted, cannot be
disinherited. Yet I have seen some common beggars, that have refused
to part with their children in this manner, to some of the richest
among the Greeks; (so powerful is the instinctive affection that is
natural to parents!) though the adopting fathers are generally very
tender to these _children of their souls_, as they call them. I own
this custom pleases me much better than our absurd one of following
our name. Methinks, 'tis much more reasonable to make happy and
rich an infant whom I educate after my own manner, _brought up_ (in
the Turkish phrase) _upon my knees_, and who has learned to look upon
me with a filial respect, than to give an estate to a creature,
without other merit or relation to me, than that of a few letters.
Yet this is an absurdity we see frequently practised.--Now I have
mentioned the Armenians, perhaps it will be agreeable to tell you
something of that nation, with which I am sure you are utterly
unacquainted. I will not trouble you with the geographical account
of the situation of their country, which you may see in the maps; or
a relation of their ancient greatness, which you may read in the
Roman history. They are now subject to the Turks; and, being very
industrious in trade, and increasing and multiplying, are dispersed
in great numbers through all the Turkish dominions. They were, as
they say, converted to the Christian religion by St Gregory, and are
perhaps the devoutest (sic), Christians in the whole world. The
chief precepts of their priests enjoin the strict keeping of their
lents, which are, at least seven months in every year, and are not to
be dispensed with on the most emergent necessity; no occasion
whatever can excuse them, if they touch any thing more than mere
herbs or roots (without oil) and plain dry bread. That is their
constant diet.--Mr W----y has one of his interpreters of this nation,
and the poor fellow was brought so low, by the severity of his fasts,
that his life was despaired of. Yet neither his master's commands,
nor the doctor's entreaties (who declared nothing else could save his
life) were powerful enough to prevail with him to take two or three
spoonfuls of broth. Excepting this, which may rather be called a
custom than an article of faith, I see very little in their religion
different from ours. 'Tis true, they seem to incline very much to Mr
Whiston's doctrine; neither do I think the Greek church very distant
from it, since 'tis certain, the holy Spirit's proceeding _only_ from
the Father, is making a plain subordination in the Son.--But the
Armenians have no notion of transubstantiation, whatever account Sir
Paul Rycaut gives of them, (which account, I am apt to believe, was
designed to compliment our Court in 1679;) and they have a great
horror for those amongst them, that change to the Roman religion.
What is most extraordinary in their customs, is their matrimony; a
ceremony, I believe, unparallell'd (sic) all over the world. They
are always promised very young; but the espoused never see one
another, till three days after their marriage. The bride is carried
to church, with a cap on her head, in the fashion of a large
trencher, and over it a red silken veil, which covers her all over to
her feet. The priest asks the bridegroom, Whether he is contented to
marry that woman, _be she deaf, be she blind?_ These are the literal
words: to which having answered, _yes_, she is led home to his house,
accompanied with all the friends and relations on both sides, singing
and dancing, and is placed on a cushion in the corner of the sofa;
but her veil is never lifted up, not even by her husband. There is
something so odd and monstrous in these ways, that I could not
believe them, till I had inquired of several Armenians myself, who
all assured me of the truth of them, particularly one young fellow,
who wept when he spoke of it, being promised by his mother to a girl
that he must marry in this manner, though he protested to me, he had
rather die than submit to this slavery, having already figured his
bride to himself with all the deformities of nature.--I fancy I see
you bless yourself at this terrible relation. I cannot conclude my
letter with a more surprising story; yet 'tis as seriously true, as
that I am, Dear sister, yours, &c. &c.
LET. XLIII
TO THE ABBOT OF ----.
_Constantinople, May_ 19. O. S. 1718.
I AM extremely pleased with hearing from you, and my vanity (the
darling frailty of mankind) not a little flattered by the uncommon
questions you ask me, though I am utterly incapable of answering
them. And, indeed, were I as good a mathematician as Euclid himself,
it requires an age's stay to make just observations on the air and
vapours. I have not been yet a full year here, and am on the point
of removing. Such is my rambling destiny. This will surprise you,
and can surprise no body so much as myself. Perhaps you will accuse
me of laziness, or dulness (sic), or both together, that can leave
this place, without giving you some account of the Turkish court. I
can only tell you, that if you please to read Sir Paul Rycaut, you
will there find a full and true account of the vizier's, the
_beglerbys_, the civil and spiritual government, the officers of the
seraglio, &c. things that 'tis very easy to procure lists of, and
therefore may be depended on; though other stories, God knows--I say
no more--every body is at liberty to write their own remarks; the
manners of people may change; or some of them escape the observation
of travellers; but 'tis not the same of the government; and, for that
reason, since I can tell you nothing new, I will tell you nothing of
it. In the same silence shall be passed over the arsenal and seven
towers; and for mosques, I have already described one of the noblest
to you very particularly. But I cannot forbear taking notice to you
of a mistake of Gemelli, (though I honour him in a much higher degree
than any other voyage-writer:) he says that there are no remains of
Calcedon; this is certainly a mistake: I was there, yesterday, and
went cross the canal in my galley, the sea being very narrow between
that city and Constantinople. 'Tis still a large town, and has
several mosques in it. The Christians still call it Calcedonia, and
the Turks give it a name I forgot, but which is only a corruption of
the same word. I suppose this is an error of his guide, which his
short stay hindered him from rectifying, for I have, in other
matters, a very just esteem for his veracity. Nothing can be
pleasanter than the canal; and the Turks are so well acquainted with
its beauties, that all their pleasure-seats are built on its banks,
where they have, at the same time, the most beautiful prospects in
Europe and Asia; there are near one another some hundreds of
magnificent palaces. Human grandeur being here yet more unstable
than any where else, 'tis common for the heirs of a great
three-tailed bassa, not to be rich enough to keep in repair the house
he built; thus, in a few years, they all fall to ruin. I was
yesterday to see that of the late grand Vizier, who was killed at
Peterwaradin. It was built to receive his royal bride, daughter of
the present sultan; but he did not live to see her there. I have a
great mind to describe it to you; but I check that inclination,
knowing very well, that I cannot give you, with my best description,
such an idea of it as I ought. It is situated on one of the most
delightful parts of the canal, with a fine wood on the side of a hill
behind it. The extent of it is prodigious; the guardian assured me,
there are eight hundred rooms in it; I will not, however, answer for
that number, since I did not count them; but 'tis certain the number
is very large, and the whole adorned with a profusion of marble,
gilding, and the most exquisite painting of fruit and flowers. The
windows are all sashed with the finest crystalline glass brought from
England; and here is all the expensive magnificence that you can
suppose in a palace founded by a vain luxurious young man, with the
wealth of a vast empire at his command. But no part of it pleased me
better than the apartments destined for the bagnios. There are two
built exactly in the same manner, answering to one another; the
baths, fountains, and pavements, all of white marble, the roofs gilt,
and the walls covered with Japan china. Adjoining to them are two
rooms, the uppermost of which is divided into a sofa, and in the four
corners are falls of water from the very roof, from shell to shell,
of white marble, to the lower end of the room, where it falls into a
large basin, surrounded with pipes, that throw up the water as high
as the roof. The walls are in the nature of lattices; and, on the
outside of them, there are vines and woodbines planted, that form a
sort of green tapestry, and give an agreeable obscurity to those
delightful chambers. I should go on and let you into some of the
other apartments (all worthy your curiosity); but 'tis yet harder to
describe a Turkish palace than any other, being built entirely
irregular. There is nothing that can be properly called front or
wings; and though such a confusion is, I think, pleasing to the
sight, yet it would be very unintelligible in a letter. I shall only
add, that the chamber destined for the sultan, when he visits his
daughter, is wainscotted with mother of pearl, fastened with emeralds
like nails. There are others of mother of pearl and olive wood
inlaid, and several of Japan china. The galleries, which are
numerous, and very large, are adorned with jars of flowers, and
porcelain dishes of fruit of all sorts, so well done in plaster, and
coloured in so lively a manner, that it has an enchanting effect.
The garden is suitable to the house, where arbours, fountains, and
walks, are thrown together in an agreeable confusion. There is no
ornament wanting, except that of statues. Thus, you see, Sir, these
people are not so unpolished as we represent them. 'Tis true, their
magnificence is of a very different taste from ours, and perhaps of
a better. I am almost of opinion, they have a right notion of life.
They consume it in music, gardens, wine, and delicate eating, while
we are tormenting our brains with some scheme of politics, or
studying some science to which we can never attain; or, if we do,
cannot persuade other people to set that value upon it we do
ourselves. 'Tis certain, what we feel and see is properly (if any
thing is properly) our own; but the good of fame, the folly of
praise, are hardly purchased, and, when obtained, a poor recompence
(sic) for loss of time and health. We die or grow old before we can
reap the fruit of our labours. Considering what short-liv'd, weak
animals men are, is there any study so beneficial as the study of
present pleasure? I dare not pursue this theme; perhaps I have
already said too much, but I depend upon the true knowledge you have
of my heart. I don't expect from you the insipid railleries I should
suffer from another in answer to this letter. You know how to divide
the idea of pleasure from that of vice, and they are only mingled in
the heads of fools.--But I allow you to laugh at me for the sensual
declaration in saying, that I had rather be a rich _effendi_, with
all his ignorance, than Sir Isaac Newton with all his knowledge.
I am, Sir, &c. &c.
LET. XLIV.
TO THE ABBOT OF ----.
_Tunis, July_ 31. O. S. 1718
I LEFT Constantinople the sixth of the last month, and this is the
first post from whence I could send a letter, though I have often
wished for the opportunity, that I might impart some of the pleasure
I found in this voyage, through the most agreeable part of the world,
where every scene presents me some poetical idea,
_Warm'd with poetic transport I survey
Th' immortal islands, and the well known sea.
For here so oft the muse her harp has strung,
That not a mountain rears its head unsung_.
I BEG your pardon for this sally, and will, if I can, continue the
rest of my account in plain prose. The second day after we set sail,
we passed Gallipolis, a fair city, situated in the bay of
Chersonesus, and much respected by the Turks, being the first town
they took in Europe. At five the next morning, we anchored in the
Hellespont, between the castles of Sestos and Abydos, now called the
Dardanelli. These are now two little ancient castles, but of no
strength, being commanded by a rising ground behind them, which, I
confess, I should never have taken notice of, if I had not heard it
observed by our captain and officers, my imagination being wholly
employed by the tragic story, that you are well acquainted with:
_The swimming lover, and the nightly bride,
How HERO lov'd, and how LEANDER died_.
Verse again!--I am certainly infected by the poetical air I have
passed through. That of Abydos is undoubtedly very amorous, since
that soft passion betrayed the castle into the hands of the Turks who
besieged it in the reign of Orchanes. The governor's daughter,
imagining to have seen her future husband in a dream, (though I don't
find she had either slept upon bride-cake, or kept St Agnes's fast)
fancied she saw the dear figure in the form of one of her besiegers;
and, being willing to obey her destiny, tossed a note to him over the
wall, with the offer of her person, and the delivery of the castle.
He shewed it to his general, who consented to try the sincerity of
her intentions, and withdrew his army, ordering the young man to
return with a select body of men at midnight. She admitted him at
the appointed hour; he destroyed the garrison, took the father
prisoner, and made her his wife. This town is in Asia, first founded
by the Milesians. Sestos is in Europe, and was once the principal
city of Chersonesus. Since I have seen this strait, I find nothing
improbable in the adventure of Leander, or very wonderful in the
bridge of boats of Xerxes. 'Tis so narrow, 'tis not surprising a
young lover should attempt to swim, or an ambitious king try to pass
his army over it. But then, 'tis so subject to storms, 'tis no
wonder the lover perished, and the bridge was broken. From hence we
had a full view of mount Ida;
_Where Juno once caress'd her am'rous Jove,
And the world's master lay subdu'd by love_.
Not many leagues sail from hence, I saw the point of land where poor
old Hecuba was buried, and about a league from that place is Cape
Janizary, the famous promontory of Sigaeum, where we anchored. My
curiosity supplied me with strength to climb to the top of it, to see
the place where Achilles was buried, and where Alexander ran naked
round his tomb, in honour of him, which, no doubt, was a great
comfort to his ghost. I saw there the ruins of a very large city,
and found a stone, on which Mr W----y plainly distinguished the words
of _Sigaen Polin_. We ordered this on board the ship; but were
shewed others much more curious by a Greek priest, tho' a very
ignorant fellow, that could give no tolerable account of any thing.
On each side the door of this little church ly two large stones,
about ten feet long each, five in breadth, and three in thickness.
That on the right is a very fine white marble, the side of it
beautifully carved in bas-relief; it represents a woman, who seems to
be designed for some deity, sitting on a chair with a footstool, and
before her another woman, weeping, and presenting to her a young
child that she has in her arms, followed by a procession of women
with children in the same manner. This is certainly part of a very
ancient tomb; but I dare not pretend to give the true explanation of
it. On the stone, on the left side, is a very fair inscription; but
the Greek is too ancient for Mr W----y's interpretation. I am very
sorry not to have the original in my possession, which might have
been purchased of the poor inhabitants for a small sum of money. But
our captain assured us, that without having machines made on purpose,
'twas impossible to bear it to the sea-side; and, when it was there,
his long-boat would not be large enough to hold it.
THE ruins of this great city are now inhabited by poor Greek
peasants, who wear the Sciote habit, the women being in short
petticoats, fastened by straps round their shoulders, and large smock
sleeves of white linen, with neat shoes and stockings, and on their
heads a large piece of muslin, which falls in large folds on their
shoulders.--One of my countrymen, Mr Sands, (whose book I doubt not
you have read, as one of the best of its kind) speaking of these
ruins, supposes them to have been the foundation of a city begun by
Constantine, before his building Byzantium; but I see no good reason
for that imagination, and am apt to believe them much more ancient.
WE saw very plainly from this promontory, the river Simois rolling
from mount Ida, and running through a very spacious valley. It is
now a considerable river, and is called Simores, it is joined in the
vale by the Scamander, which appeared a small stream half choaked
(sic) with mud, but is perhaps large in the winter. This was Xanthus
amongst the gods, as Homer tells us; and 'tis by that heavenly name,
the nymph Oenone invokes it, in her epistle to Paris. The Trojan
virgins used to offer their first favours to it, by the name of
Scamander, till the adventure, which Monsieur de la Fontaine has told
so agreeably, abolish'd that heathenish ceremony. When the stream is
mingled with the Simois, they run together to the sea.
ALL that is now left of Troy is the ground on which it stood; for, I
am firmly persuaded, whatever pieces of antiquity may be found round
it, are much more modern, and I think Strabo says the same thing.
However, there is some pleasure in seeing the valley where I imagined
the famous duel of Menelaus and Paris had been fought, and where the
greatest city in the world was situated. 'Tis certainly the noblest
situation that can be found for the head of a great empire, much to
be preferred to that of Constantinople, the harbour here being always
convenient for ships from all parts of the world, and that of
Constantinople inaccessible almost six months in the year, while the
north-wind reigns.
NORTH of the promontory of Sigaeum we saw that of Rhaeteum, famed for
the sepulchre of Ajax. While I viewed these celebrated fields and
rivers, I admired the exact geography of Homer, whom I had in my
hand. Almost every epithet he gives to a mountain or plain, is still
just for it; and I spent several hours here in as agreeable
cogitations, as ever Don Quixote had on mount Montesinos. We sailed
next night to the shore, where 'tis vulgarly reported Troy stood; and
I took the pains of rising at two in the morning to view cooly those
ruins which are commonly shewed to strangers, and which the Turks
call _Eski Stamboul, i.e._ Old Constantinople. For that reason, as
well as some others, I conjecture them to be the remains of that city
begun by Constantine. I hired an ass (the only voiture to be had
there) that I might go some miles into the country, and take a tour
round the ancient walls, which are of a vast extent. We found the
remains of a castle on a hill, and of another in a valley, several
broken pillars and two pedestals, from which I took these Latin
inscriptions:
DIVI. AUG. COL.
ET. COL. IUL. PHILIPPENSIS
EORUNDEM ET PRINCIP. AM
COL. IUL. PARIANAE. TRIBUN.
MILIT. COH. XXXII. VOLUNTAR.
TRIB. MILIT. LEG. XIII. GEM.
PRAEFECTO EQUIT. ALAE. I.
SCUBULORUM
VIC. VIII.
DIVI. IULI. FLAMINI
C. ANTONIO. M. F.
VOLT. RUFO. FLAMIN.
DIV. AUG. COL. CL. APRENS.
ET. COL. IUL. PHILIPPENSIS
EORUNDEM ET PRINCIP. ITEM
COL. IUL. PARIANAE TRIB.
MILIT. COH. XXXII. VOLUNTARIOR.
TRIB. MILIT. XIII.
GEM. PRAEF. EQUIT. ALAE. I.
SCUBULORUM
VIC. VII.