nation of petticoats, are utterly unknown in this place. Here are
neither coquettes nor prudes. No woman dares appear coquette enough
to encourage two lovers at a time. And I have not seen any such
prudes as to pretend fidelity to their husbands, who are certainly
the best natured set of people in the world, and look upon their
wives' gallants as favourably as men do upon their deputies, that
take the troublesome part of their business off their hands. They
have not however the less to do on that account; for they are
generally deputies in another place themselves; in one word, 'tis the
established custom for every lady to have two husbands, one that
bears the name, and another that performs the duties. And the
engagements are so well known, that it would be a downright affront,
and publicly resented, if you invited a woman of quality to dinner,
without, at the same time, inviting her two attendants of lover and
husband, between whom she sits in state with great gravity. The
sub-marriages generally last twenty years together, and the lady
often commands the poor lover's estate, even to the utter ruin of his
family. These connections, indeed, are as seldom begun by any real
passion as other matches; for a man makes but an ill figure that is
not in some commerce of this nature; and a woman looks out for a
lover as soon as she's married, as part of her equipage, without
which she could not be genteel; and the first article of the treaty
is establishing the pension, which remains to the lady, in case the
gallant should prove inconstant. This chargeable point of honour, I
look upon as the real foundation of so many wonderful influences of
constancy. I really know some women of the first quality, whose
pensions are as well known as their annual rents, and yet nobody
esteems them the less; on the contrary, their discretion would be
called in question, if they should be suspected to be mistresses
for nothing. A great part of their emulation consists in trying who
shall get most; and having no intrigue at all, is so far a disgrace,
that, I'll assure you, a lady, who is very much my friend here, told
me but yesterday, how much I was obliged to her for justifying my
conduct in a conversation relating to me, where it was publicly
asserted, that I could not possibly have common sense, since I had
been in town above a fortnight, and had made no steps towards
commencing an amour. My friend pleaded for me, that my stay was
uncertain, and she believed that was the cause of my seeming
stupidity; and this was all she could find to say in my
justification. But one of the pleasantest adventures I ever met with
in my life was last night, and it will give you a just idea in what a
delicate manner the _belles passions_ are managed in this country. I
was at the assembly of the countess of -----, and the young count
of ----- leading me down stairs, asked me how long I was to stay at
Vienna? I made answer, that my stay depended on the emperor, and it
was not in my power to determine it. Well, madam, (said he) whether
your time here is to be longer or shorter, I think you ought to pass
it agreeably, and to that end you must engage in a _little affair of
the heart_.--My heart, (answered I gravely enough) does not engage
very easily, and I have no design of parting with it. I see, madam,
(said he sighing) by the ill nature of that answer, I am not to hope
for it, which is a great mortification to me that am charmed with
you. But, however, I am still devoted to your service; and since I
am not worthy of entertaining you myself, do me the honour of letting
me know whom you like best amongst us, and I'll engage to manage the
affair entirely to your satisfaction. You may judge in what manner I
should have received this compliment in my own country; but I was
well enough acquainted with the way of this, to know that he really
intended me an obligation, and I thanked him with a very grave
courtesy for his zeal to serve me, and only assured him, I had no
occasion to make use of it. Thus you see, my dear, that gallantry
and good-breeding are as different, in different climates, as
morality and religion. Who have the rightest (sic) notions of both,
we shall never know till the day of judgment; for which great day of
_eclaircissement_, I own there is very little impatience in
your, &c. &c.
L E T. XI.
TO MRS J----.
_Vienna, Sept_. 26. O. S. 1716.
I WAS never more agreeably surprised than by your obliging letter.
'Tis a peculiar mark of my esteem that I tell you so; and I can
assure you, that if I loved you one grain less than I do, I should be
very sorry to see it so diverting as it is. The mortal aversion I
have to writing, makes me tremble at the thoughts of a new
correspondent; and I believe I have disobliged no less than a dozen
of my London acquaintance by refusing to hear from them, though I did
verily think they intended to send me very entertaining letters. But
I had rather lose the pleasure of reading several witty things, than
be forced to write many stuped (sic) ones. Yet, in spite of these
considerations, I am charmed with the proof of your friendship, and
beg a continuation of the same goodness, though I fear the dulness of
this will make you immediately repent of it. It is not from Austria
that one can write with vivacity, and I am already infected with the
phlegm of the country. Even their amours and their quarrels are
carried on with a surprising temper, and they are never lively but
upon points of ceremony. There, I own, they shew all their passions;
and 'tis not long since two coaches, meeting in a narrow street at
night, the ladies in them not being able to adjust the ceremonial of
which should go back, sat there, with equal gallantry till two in the
morning, and were both so fully determined to die upon the spot
rather than yield, in a point of that importance, that the street
would never have been cleared till their deaths, if the emperor had
not sent his guards to part them; and even then they refused to stir,
till the expedient could be found out of taking them both out in
chairs, exactly in the same moment. After the ladies were agreed, it
was with some difficulty that the pass was decided between the two
coachmen, no less tenacious of their rank than the ladies. This
passion is so omnipotent in the breasts of the women, that even their
husbands never die but they are ready to break their hearts, because
that fatal hour puts an end to their rank, no widows having any place
at Vienna. The men are not much less touched with this point of
honour, and they do not only scorn to marry, but even to make love to
any woman of a family not as illustrious as their own; and the
pedigree is much more considered by them, than either the complexion
of features of their mistresses. Happy are the she's (sic) that can
number amongst their ancestors, counts of the empire; they have
neither occasion for beauty, money, nor good conduct to get them
husbands. 'Tis true, as to money, 'tis seldom any advantage to the
man they marry; the laws of Austria confine the woman's portion to
two thousand florins (about two hundred pounds English), and whatever
they have beside, remains in their own possession and disposal.
Thus, here are many ladies much richer than their husbands, who are
however obliged to allow them pin-money agreeable to their quality;
and I attribute to this considerable branch of prerogative, the
liberty that they take upon other occasions. I am sure, you, that
know my laziness, and extreme indifference on this subject, will pity
me, entangled amongst all these ceremonies, which are a wonderful
burden to me, though I am the envy of the whole town, having, by
their own customs, the pass before them all. They indeed, so
revenge, upon the poor envoys, this great respect shewn to
ambassadors, that (with all my indifference) I should be very uneasy
to suffer it. Upon days of ceremony they have no entrance at court,
and on other days must content themselves with walking after every
soul, and being the very last taken notice of. But I must write a
volume to let you know all the ceremonies, and I have already said
too much on so dull a subject, which however employs the whole care
of the people here. I need not, after this, tell you how agreeably
time slides away with me; you know as well as I do the taste of,
Your's, &c. &c.
LET. XII.
TO THE LADY X----.
_Vienna, Oct_. 1. O. S. 1716.
YOU desire me, madam, to send you some accounts of the customs here,
and at the same time a description of Vienna. I am always willing to
obey your commands; but you must, upon this occasion, take the will
for the deed. If I should undertake to tell you all the particulars,
in which the manners here differ from ours, I must write a whole
quire of the dullest stuff that ever was read, or printed without
being read. Their dress agrees with the French or English in no one
article, but wearing petticoats. They have many fashions peculiar to
themselves; they think it indecent for a widow ever to wear green or
rose colour, but all the other gayest colours at her own discretion.
The assemblies here are the only regular diversion, the operas being
always at court, and commonly on some particular occasion. Madam
Rabutin has the assembly constantly every night at her house; and the
other ladies, whenever they have a mind to display the magnificence
of their apartments, or oblige a friend by complimenting them on the
day of their saint, they declare, that on such a day the assembly
shall be at their house in honour of the feast of the count or
countess--_such a one_. These days are called days of Gala, and all
the friends or relations of the lady, whose saint it is, are obliged
to appear in their best clothes, and all their jewels. The mistress
of the house takes no particular notice of any body, nor returns any
body's visit; and, whoever pleases, may go, without the formality of
being presented. The company are entertained with ice in several
forms, winter and summer; afterwards they divide into several parties
of ombre, piquet, or conversation, all games of hazard being forbid.
I SAW t'other day the Gala for Count Altheim, the emperor's
favourite, and never in my life saw so many fine clothes ill-fancied.
They embroider the richest gold stuffs; and provided they can make
their clothes expensive enough, that is all the taste they shew in
them. On other days, the general dress is a scarf, and what you
please under it.
BUT now I am speaking of Vienna, I am sure you expect I should say
something of the convents; they are of all sorts and sizes, but I am
best pleased with that of St Lawrence, where the ease and neatness
they seem to live with, appears to be much more edifying than those
stricter orders, where perpetual penance and nastiness must breed
discontent and wretchedness. The Nuns are all of quality. I think
there are to the number of fifty. They have each of them a little
cell perfectly clean, the walls of which are covered with pictures
more or less fine, according to their quality. A long white stone
gallery runs by all of them, furnished With the pictures of exemplary
sisters; the chapel is extremely neat and richly adorned. But I
could not forbear laughing at their shewing me a wooden head of our
Saviour, which, they assured me, spoke during the siege of Vienna;
and, as a proof of it, bid me mark his mouth, which had been open
ever since. Nothing can be more becoming than the dress of these
Nuns. It is a white robe, the sleeves of which are turned up with
fine white callico (sic), and their head-dress the same, excepting a
small veil of black crape that falls behind. They have a lower sort
of serving Nuns, that wait on them as their chambermaids. They
receive all visits of women, and play at ombre in their chambers,
with permission of their abbess, which is very easy to be obtained.
I never saw an old woman so good-natured; she is near fourscore, and
yet shews very little sign of decay, being still lively and
cheerful. She caressed me as if I had been her daughter, giving me
some pretty things of her own work, and sweetmeats in abundance. The
grate is not of the most rigid; it is not very hard to put a head
through, and I don't doubt but a man, a little more slender than
ordinary, might squeeze in his whole person. The young count of
Salamis came to the grate, while I was there, and the abbess gave him
her hand to kiss. But I was surprised to find here, the only
beautiful young woman I have seen at Vienna, and not only beautiful
but genteel, witty, and agreeable, of a great family, and who had
been the admiration of the town. I could not forbear shewing my
surprise at seeing a Nun like her. She made me a thousand obliging
compliments, and desired me to come often. It will be an infinite
pleasure to me, (said she, sighing) but I avoid, with the greatest
care, seeing any of my former acquaintance, and whenever they come to
our convent, I lock myself in my cell. I observed tears come into
her eyes, which touched me extremely, and I began to talk to her in
that strain of tender pity she inspired me with; but she would not
own to me, that she is not perfectly happy. I have since endeavoured
to learn the real cause of her retirement, without being able to get
any other account, but that every body was surprised at it, and no
body guessed the reason. I have been several times to see her; but
it gives me too much melancholy to see so agreeable a young creature
buried alive. I am not surprised that Nuns have so often inspired
violent passions; the pity one naturally feels for them, when they
seem worthy of another destiny, making an easy way for yet more
tender sentiments. I never in my life had so little charity for the
Roman Catholick (sic) religion, as since I see the misery it
occasions; so many poor unhappy women! and then the gross
superstition of the common people, who are some or other of them, day
and night, offering bits of candle to the wooden figures that are set
up almost in every street. The processions I see very often, are a
pageantry, as offensive, and apparently contradictory to common
sense, as the pagods (sic) of China. God knows whether it be the
_womanly_ spirit of contradiction that works in me; but there never
before was such zeal against popery in the heart of,
Dear madam, &c. &c.
LET. XIII.
TO MR ----.
_Vienna, Oct_. O. S. 1716.
I DESERVE not all the reproaches you make me. If I have some time
without answering your letter, it is not, that I don't know how many
thanks are due to you for it; or that I am stupid enough to prefer
any amusements to the pleasure of hearing from you; but after the
professions of esteem you have so obligingly made me, I cannot help
delaying, as long as I can, shewing you that you are mistaken. If
you are sincere, when you say you expect to be extremely entertained
by my letters, I ought to be mortified at the disappointment that I
am sure you will receive when you hear from me; though I have done my
best endeavours to find out something worth writing to you. I have
seen every thing that was to be seen with a very, diligent curiosity.
Here are some fine villas, particularly the late prince of
Litchtenstein's (sic); but the statues are all modern, and the
pictures not of the first hands. 'Tis true, the emperor has some of
great value. I was yesterday to see the repository, which they call
his Treasure, where they seem to have been more diligent in amassing
a great quantity of things, than in the choice of them. I spent
above five hours there, and yet there were very few things that
stopped me long to consider them. But the number is prodigious,
being a very long gallery filled on both sides, and five large rooms.
There is a vast quantity of paintings, amongst which are many fine
miniatures; but the most valuable pictures, are a few of Corregio
(sic), those of Titian being at the Favorita.
THE cabinet of jewels did not appear to me so rich as I expected to
see it. They shewed me here a cup, about the size of a tea dish, of
one entire emerald, which they had so particular a respect for, that
only the emperor has the liberty of touching it. There is a large
cabinet full of curiosities of clock-work, only one of which I
thought worth observing, that was a craw-fish, with all the motions
so natural, that it was hard to distinguish it from the life.
THE next cabinet was a large collection of agates, some of them
extremely beautiful, and of an uncommon size, and several vases of
Lapis Lazuli. I was surprised to see the cabinet of medals so poorly
furnished; I did not remark one of any value, and they are kept in a
most ridiculous disorder. As to the antiques, very few of them
deserve that name. Upon my saying they were modern, I could not
forbear laughing at the answer of the profound antiquary that shewed
them, that _they were ancient enough; for, to his knowledge, they had
been there these forty years_. But the next cabinet diverted me yet
better, being nothing else but a parcel of wax babies, and toys in
ivory, very well worthy to be presented children of five years old.
Two of the rooms were wholly filled with these trifles of all kinds,
set in jewels, amongst which I was desired to observe a crucifix,
that they assured me had spoke very wisely to the emperor Leopold. I
won't trouble you with a catalogue of the rest of the lumber; but I
must not forget to mention a small piece of loadstone that held up an
anchor of steel too heavy for me to lift. This is what I thought
most curious in the whole treasure. There are some few heads of
ancient statues; but several of them are defaced by modern additions.
I foresee that you will be very little satisfied with this letter,
and I dare hardly ask you to be good-natured enough to charge the
dulness (sic) of it on the barrenness of the subject, and to overlook
the stupidity of, Your, &c. &c.
LET. XIV.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Prague, Nov_. 17. O. S. 1716.
I HOPE my dear sister wants no new proofs of my sincere affection for
her: but I am sure, if you do, I could not give you a stronger than
writing at this time, after three days, or, more properly speaking,
three nights and days, hard post-travelling.--The kingdom of Bohemia
is the most desert of any I have seen in Germany. The villages are
so poor, and the post-houses so miserable, that clean straw and fair
water are blessings not always to be met with, and better
accommodation not to be hoped for. Though I carried my own bed with
me, I could not sometimes find a place to set it up in; and I rather
chose to travel all night, as cold as it is, wrapped up in my furs,
than go into the common stoves, which are filled with a mixture of
all sorts of ill scents.
THIS town was once the royal seat of the Bohemian king, and is still
the capital of the kingdom. There are yet some remains of its former
splendour, being one of the largest towns in Germany, but, for the
most part, old built, and thinly inhabited, which makes the houses
very cheap. Those people of quality, who cannot easily bear the
expence of Vienna, chuse to reside here, where they have assemblies,
music, and all other diversions, (those of a court excepted) at very
moderate rates, all things being here in great abundance, especially
the best wild-fowl I ever tasted. I have already been visited by
some of the most considerable ladies, whose relations I know at
Vienna. They are dressed after the fashions there, after the manner
that the people at Exeter imitate those of London; that is, their
imitation is more excessive than the original. 'Tis not easy to
describe what extraordinary figures they make. The person is so much
lost between head-dress and petticoat, that they have as much
occasion to write upon their backs, "_This is a Woman_," for the
information of travellers, as ever sign-post painter had to write,
_"This is a Bear_." I will not forget to write to you again from
Dresden and Leipzig, being much more solicitous to content your
curiosity, than to indulge my own repose. I am, &c.
LET. XV.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Leipzig, Nov_. 21. O. S. 1716.
I BELIEVE, dear sister, you will easily forgive my not writing to you
from Dresden, as I promised, when I tell you, that I never went out
of my chaise from Prague to this place. You may imagine how heartily
I was tired with twenty-four hours post-travelling, without sleep or
refreshment (for I can never sleep in a coach, however fatigued.) We
passed, by moon-shine, the frightful precipices that divide Bohemia
from Saxony, at the bottom, of which runs the river Elbe; but I
cannot say, that I had reason to fear drowning in it, being perfectly
convinced, that in case of a tumble, it was utterly impossible to
come alive to the bottom. In many places, the road is so narrow,
that I could not discern an inch of space between the wheels and the
precipice. Yet I was so good a wife, as not to wake Mr W----y, who
was fast asleep by my side, to make him share in my fears, since the
danger was unavoidable, till I perceived, by the bright light of the
moon, our postilions nodding on horse-back, while the horses were on
a full gallop. Then indeed I thought it very convenient to call out
to desire them to look where they were going. My calling waked (sic)
Mr W----Y, and he was much more surprised than myself at the situation
we were in, and assured me, that he passed the Alps five times in
different places, without ever having gone a road so dangerous. I
have been told since, that 'tis common to find the bodies of
travellers in the Elbe; but, thank God, that was not our destiny; and
we came safe to Dresden, so much tired with fear and fatigue, it was
not possible for me to compose myself to write. After passing these
dreadful rocks, Dresden appeared to me a wonderfully agreeable
situation, in a fine large plain on the banks of the Elbe. I was
very glad to stay there a day to rest myself. The town is the
neatest I have seen in Germany; most of the houses are new built; the
elector's palace is very handsome, and his repository full of
curiosities of different kinds, with a collection of medals very much
esteemed. Sir ----, our king's envoy, came to see me here, and
Madame de L----, whom I knew in London, when her husband was minister
to the king of Poland there. She offered me all things in her power
to entertain me, and brought some ladies with her, whom she presented
to me. The Saxon ladies resemble the Austrian no more than the
Chinese do those of London; they are very genteelly dressed, after
the English and French modes, and have generally pretty faces, but
they are the most determined _minaudieres_ in the whole world. They
would think it a mortal sin against good-breeding, if they either
spoke or moved in a natural manner. They all affect a little soft
lisp, and a pretty pitty-pat step; which female frailties ought,
however, to be forgiven them, in favour of their civility and good
nature to strangers, which I have a great deal of reason to praise.
THE countess of Cozelle is kept prisoner in a melancholy castle, some
leagues from hence; and I cannot forbear telling you what I have
heard of her, because it seems to me very extraordinary, though I
foresee I shall swell my letter to the size of a pacquet.--She was
mistress to the king of Poland, (elector of Saxony) with so absolute
a dominion over him, that never any lady had so much power in that
court. They tell a pleasant story of his majesty's first declaration
of love, which he made in a visit to her, bringing in one hand a bag
of a hundred thousand crowns, and in the other a horse-shoe, which he
snapped asunder before her face, leaving her to draw the consequences
of such remarkable proofs of strength and liberality. I know not
which charmed her most; but she consented to leave her husband, and
to give herself up to him entirely, being divorced publicly, in such
a manner, as, by their laws, permits either party to marry again.
God knows whether it was at this time, or in some other fond fit, but
'tis certain, the king had the weakness to make her a formal contract
of marriage; which, though it could signify nothing during the life
of the queen, pleased her so well, that she could not be contented,
without telling it to all the people she saw, and giving herself the
airs of a queen. Men endure every thing while they are in love; but
when the excess of passion was cooled by long possession, his
majesty began to reflect on the ill consequences of leaving such a
paper in her hands, and desired to have it restored to him. But she
rather chose to endure all the most violent effects of his anger,
than give it up; and though she is one of the richest and most
avaricious ladies of her country, she has refused the offer of the
continuation of a large pension, and the security of a vast sum of
money she has amassed; and has, at last, provoked the king to confine
her person to a castle, where she endures all the terrors of a strait
imprisonment, and remains still inflexible, either to threats or
promises. Her violent passions have brought her indeed into fits,
which 'tis supposed, will soon put an end to her life. I cannot
forbear having some compassion for a woman that suffers for a point
of honour, however mistaken, especially in a country where points of
honour are not over scrupulously observed among ladies.
I COULD have wished Mr W----y's business had permitted him a longer
stay at Dresden.
PERHAPS I am partial to a town where they profess the protestant
religion; but every thing seemed to me with quite another air of
politeness than I have found in other places. Leipzig, where I am at
present, is a town very considerable for its trade, and I take this
opportunity of buying pages liveries, gold stuffs for myself, &c. all
things of that kind being at least double the price at Vienna; partly
because of the excessive customs, and partly through want of genius
and industry in the people, who make no one sort of thing there; so
that the ladies are obliged to send, even for their shoes, out of
Saxony. The fair here is one of the most considerable in Germany,
and the resort of all the people of quality, as well as of the
merchants. This is also a fortified town, but I avoid ever
mentioning fortifications, being sensible that I know not how to
speak of them. I am the more easy Under my ignorance, when I reflect
that I am sure you'll willingly forgive the omission; for if I made
you the most exact description of all the ravelins and bastions I see
in my travels, I dare swear you would ask me, What is a ravelin? and,
What is a bastion?
Adieu, my dear sister.
LET. XVI.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Brunswick, Nov_. 23. O. S. 1716.
I AM just come to Brunswick, a very old town, but which has the
advantage of being the capital of the duke of Wolsenbuttle's
dominions, a family (not to speak of its ancient honours)
illustrious, by having its younger branch on the throne of England,
and having given two empresses to Germany. I have not forgot to
drink your health here in mum, which I think very well deserves its
reputation of being the best in the world. This letter is the third
I have writ to you during my journey; and I declare to you, that if
you don't send me immediately a full and true account of all the
changes and chances among our London acquaintance, I will not write
you any description of Hanover (where I hope to be to-night) though I
know you have more curiosity to hear of that place than any other.
LET. XVII.
TO THE COUNTESS OF B----.
_Hanover, Nov_. 25. O. S. 1716.