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LETTERS
OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
Lady M----y W----y M----e;
WRITTEN DURING HER TRAVELS IN
EUROPE, ASIA, AND AFRICA,
TO
Persons of Distinction, Men of Letters, &c.
in different PARTS of EUROPE.
Which contain, among other curious Relations,
ACCOUNTS of the POLICY and MANNERS
of the TURKS.
Drawn from Sources that have been inaccessible to
other Travellers.
A NEW EDITION, COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME.
LONDON;
PRINTED FOR THOMAS MARTIN,
M.DCC.XC.
PREFACE,
BY A L A D Y.
WRITTEN IN 1724.
I WAS going, like common editors, to advertise the reader of the
beauties and excellencies of the work laid before him: To tell him,
that the illustrious author had opportunities that other travellers,
whatever their quality or curiosity may have been, cannot obtain; and
a genius capable of making the best improvement of every opportunity.
But if the reader, after perusing _one_ letter only has not
discernment to distinguish that natural elegance, that delicacy of
sentiment and observation, that easy gracefulness, and lovely
simplicity, (which is the perfection of writing) and in which these
_Letters_ exceed all that has appeared in this kind, or almost in
any other, let him lay the book down, and leave it to those who have.
THE noble author had the goodness to lend me her MS. to satisfy my
curiosity in some inquiries I had made concerning her travels; and
when I had it in my hands, how was it possible to part with it? I
once had the vanity to hope I might acquaint the public, that it
owed this invaluable treasure to my importunities. But, alas! the
most ingenious author has condemned it to obscurity during her life;
and conviction, as well as deference, obliges me to yield to her
reasons. However, if these _Letters_ appear hereafter, when I am in
my grave, let this attend them, in testimony to posterity, that among
her contemporaries, _one_ woman, at least, was just to her merit.
THERE is not any thing so excellent, but some will carp at it; and
the (sic) rather, because of its excellency. But to such hypercritics I
shall not say ************.
I CONFESS, I am malicious enough to desire, that the world should see
to how much better purpose the _LADIES_ travel than their _LORDS_;
and that, whilst it is surfeited with _Male travels_, all in the same
tone, and stuffed with the same trifles; a lady has the skill to
strike out a new path, and to embellish a worn-out subject with
variety of fresh and elegant entertainment. For, besides the
vivacity and spirit which enliven every part, and that inimitable
beauty which spreads through the whole; besides the purity of the
style, for which it may justly, be accounted the standard of the
English tongue; the reader will find a more true and accurate account
of the customs and manners of the several nations with whom this lady
conversed, than he can in any other author. But, as her ladyship's
penetration discovers the inmost follies of the heart, so the candour
of her temper passed over them with an air of pity, rather than
reproach; treating with the politeness of a court, and the gentleness
of a lady, what the severity of her judgment could not but condemn.
IN short, let her own sex at least, do her justice; lay aside
diabolical Envy, and its _brother_ Malice [Footnote: This fair and
elegant prefacer (sic) has resolved that Malice should be of the
masculine gender: I believe it is both masculine and feminine, and I
heartily wish it were neuter.] with all their accursed company, sly
whispering, cruel back-biting, spiteful detraction, and the rest of
that hideous crew, which, I hope, are very falsely said to attend the
_Tea-table_, being more apt to think, they frequent those public
places, where virtuous women never come. Let the men malign one
another, if they think fit, and strive to pull down merit, when they
cannot equal it. Let us be better natured, than to give way to any
unkind or disrespectful thought of so bright an ornament of our sex,
merely because she has better sense; for I doubt not but our hearts
will tell us, that this is the real and unpardonable offence,
whatever may be pretended. Let us be better Christians, than to look
upon her with an evil eye, only because the giver of all good gifts
has entrusted and adorned her with the most excellent talents.
Rather let us freely own the superiority, of this sublime genius, as
I do, in the sincerity of my soul; pleased that a _woman_ triumphs,
and proud to follow in her train. Let us offer her the palm which is
so justly her due; and if we pretend to any laurels, lay them
willingly at her feet.
December 18.. 1724. M. A.
Charm'd into love of what obscures my fame,
If I had wit, I'd celebrate her name,
And all the beauties of her mind proclaim.
Till Malice, deafen'd with the mighty sound,
Its ill-concerted calumnies confound;
Let fall the mask, and with pale envy meet,
To ask and find, their pardon at her feet.
You see, Madam, how I lay every thing at your feet. As the tautology
shews (sic) the poverty of my genius, it likewise shews the extent of
your empire over my imagination.
_May_ 31. 1725.
ADVERTISEMENT OF THE EDITOR
THE editor of these letters, who, during his residence at Venice, was
honoured with the esteem and friendship of their ingenious and
elegant author, presents them to the public, for the two following
reasons:
_First_, Because it was the manifest intention of the late Lady
M----y W----Y M----e; that this SELECT COLLECTION of her letters
should be communicated to the public: an intention declared, not only
to the editor, but to a few more chosen friends, to whom she gave,
copies of the incomparable letters.
The _second_, and principal reason, that has engaged the editor to
let this Collection see the light, is, that the publication of these
letters will be an immortal monument to the memory of Lady M----y
W----y M----e; and will shew, as long as the English language
endures, the sprightliness of her wit, the solidity of her judgment,
the extent of her knowledge, the elegance of her taste, and the
excellence of her _real_ character.
The SELECT COLLECTION, here published, was faithfully transcribed
from the original manuscript of her ladyship at Venice.
The letters from Ratisbon, Vienna, Dresden, Peterwaradin,
Belgrade, Adrianople, Constantinople, Pera, Tunis, Genoa, Lyons, and
Paris, are certainly, the most curious and interesting part of this
publication; and, both in point of _matter_ and _form_, are, to say
no more of them, singularly worthy of the curiosity and attention of
all _men of taste_, and even of all _women of fashion_. As to those
female readers, who read for improvement, and think their beauty an
insipid thing, if it is not seasoned by intellectual charms, they
will find in these letters what they seek for; and will behold in
their author, an ornament and model to their sex.
LETTER 1.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Rotterdam, Aug_. 3. O. S. 1716.
I FLATTER, myself, dear sister, that I shall give you some pleasure
in letting you know that I have safely passed the sea, though we had
the ill fortune of a storm. We were persuaded by the captain of the
yacht to set out in a calm, and he pretended there was nothing so
easy as to tide it over; but, after two days slowly moving, the wind
blew so hard, that none of the sailors could keep their feet, and we
were all Sunday night tossed very handsomely. I never saw a man more
frighted (sic) than the captain. For my part, I have been so lucky,
neither to suffer from fear nor seasickness; though, I confess, I was
so impatient to see myself once more upon dry land, that I would not
stay till the yacht could get to Rotterdam, but went in the long-boat
to Helvoetsluys, where we had voitures to carry us to the Briel. I
was charmed with the neatness of that little town; but my arrival at
Rotterdam presented me a new scene of pleasure. All the streets are
paved with broad stones, and before many of the meanest artificers
doors are placed seats of various coloured marbles, so neatly kept,
that, I assure you, I walked almost all over the town yesterday,
_incognito_, in my slippers without receiving one spot of dirt; and
you may see the Dutch maids washing the pavement of the street, with
more application than ours do our bed-chambers. The town seems so
full of people, with such busy faces, all in motion, that I can
hardly fancy it is not some celebrated fair; but I see it is every
day the same. 'Tis certain no town can be more advantageously
situated for commerce. Here are seven large canals, on which the
merchants ships come up to the very doors of their houses. The shops
and warehouses are of a surprising neatness and magnificence, filled
with an incredible quantity of fine merchandise, and so much cheaper
than what we see in England, that I have much ado to persuade myself
I am still so near it. Here is neither dirt nor beggary to be seen.
One is not shocked with those loathsome cripples, so common in
London, nor teased with the importunity of idle fellows and wenches,
that chuse (sic) to be nasty and lazy. The common servants, and
little shop-women, here, are more nicely clean than most of our
ladies; and the great variety of neat dresses (every woman dressing
her head after her own fashion) is an additional pleasure in seeing
the town. You see, hitherto, I make no complaints, dear sister; and
if I continue to like travelling as I do at present, I shall not
repent my project. It will go a great way in making me satisfied
with it, if it affords me an opportunity of entertaining you. But it
is not from Holland that you may expect a _disinterested_ offer. I
can write enough in the stile (sic) of Rotterdam, to tell you
plainly, in one word that I expect returns of all the London news.
You see I have already learnt to make a good bargain; and that it is
not for nothing I will so much as tell you, I am your affectionate
sister.
LET. II
TO MRS. S----.
_Hague, Aug. 5_. O. S. 1716.
I MAKE haste to tell you, dear Madam, that, after all the dreadful
fatigues you threatened me with, I am hitherto very well pleased with
my journey. We take care to make such short stages every day, that I
rather fancy myself upon parties of pleasure, than upon the road; and
sure nothing can be more agreeable than travelling in Holland. The
whole country appears a large garden; the roads are well paved,
shaded on each side with rows of trees, and bordered with large
canals, full of boats, passing and repassing. Every twenty paces
gives you the prospect of some villa, and every four hours that of a
large town, so surprisingly neat, I am sure you would be charmed with
them. The place I am now at is certainly one of the finest villages
in the world. Here are several squares finely built, and (what I
think a particular beauty) the whole set with thick large trees. The
_Vour-hout_ is, at the same time, the Hyde-Park and Mall of the
people of quality; for they take the air in it both on foot and in
coaches. There are shops for wafers, cool liquors, &c.--I have been
to see several of the most celebrated gardens, but I will not teaze
(sic) you with their descriptions. I dare say you think my letter
already long enough. But I must not conclude without begging your
pardon, for not obeying your commands, in sending the lace you
ordered me. Upon my word, I can yet find none, that is not dearer
than you may buy it at London. If you want any India goods, here are
great variety of penny-worths; and I shall follow your orders with
great pleasure and exactness; being, Dear Madam, &c. &c.
LET. III
TO MRS. S. C.
_Nimeguen, Aug_.13. O. S. 1716.
I AM extremely sorry, my dear S. that your fears of disobliging your
relations, and their fears for your health and safety, have hindered
me from enjoying the happiness of your company, and you the pleasure
of a diverting journey. I receive some degree of mortification from
every agreeable novelty, or pleasing prospect, by the reflection of
your having so unluckily missed the delight which I know it would
have given you. If you were with me in this town, you would be ready
to expect to receive visits from your Nottingham friends. No two
places were ever more resembling; one has but to give the Maese the
name of the Trent, and there is no distinguishing the prospect. The
houses, like those of Nottingham, are built one above another, and
are intermixed in the same manner with trees and gardens. The tower
they call Julius Caesar's, has the same situation with Nottingham
castle; and I cannot help fancying, I see from it the Trentfield,
Adboulton, places so well known to us. 'Tis true, the fortifications
make a considerable difference. All the learned in the art of war
bestow great commendations on them; for my part, that know nothing of
the matter, I shall content myself with telling you, 'tis a very
pretty walk on the ramparts, on which there is a tower, very
deservedly called the Belvidera; where people go to drink coffee,
tea, &c. and enjoy one of the finest prospects in the world. The
public walks have no great beauty but the thick shade of the trees,
which is solemnly delightful. But I must not forget to take notice
of the bridge, which appeared very surprising to me. It is large
enough to hold hundreds of men, with horses and carriages. They give
the value of an English two-pence to get upon it, and then away they
go, bridge and all, to the other side of the river, with so slow a
motion, one is hardly sensible of any at all. I was yesterday at the
French church, and stared very much at their manner of service. The
parson clapped on a broad-brimmed hat in the first place, which gave
him entirely the air of _what d'ye call him_, in Bartholomew fair,
which he kept up by extraordinary antic gestures, and preaching much
such stuff as the other talked to the puppets. However, the
congregation seemed to receive it with great devotion; and I was
informed by some of his flock, that he is a person of particular fame
amongst them. I believe, by this time, you are as much tired with my
account of him, as I was with his sermon; but I am sure your brother
will excuse a digression in favour of the church of England. You
know speaking disrespectfully of the Calvinists, is the same thing as
speaking honourably of the church. Adieu, my dear S. always remember
me; and be assured I can never forget you, &c. &c.
LET. IV.
TO THE LADY ----.
_Cologn (sic), Aug_, 16. O. S. 1716.
IF my lady ---- could have any notion of the fatigues that I have
suffered these two last days, I am sure she would own it a great
proof of regard, that I now sit down to write to her. We hired
horses from Nimeguen hither, not having the conveniency (sic) of the
post, and found but very indifferent accommodations at Reinberg, our
first stage; but it was nothing to what I suffered yesterday. We
were in hopes to reach Cologn; our horses tired at Stamel, three
hours from it, where I was forced to pass the night in my clothes, in
a room not at all better than a hovel; for though I have my bed with
me, I had no mind to undress, where the wind came from a thousand
places. We left this wretched lodging at day-break, and about six
this morning came safe here, where I got immediately into bed. I
slept so well for three hours, that I found myself perfectly
recovered, and have had spirits enough to go and see all that is
curious in the town, that is to say, the churches, for here is
nothing else worth seeing. This is a very large town, but the most
part of it is old built. The Jesuits church, which is the neatest,
was shewed (sic) me, in a very complaisant manner, by a handsome
young Jesuit; who, not knowing who I was, took a liberty in his
compliments and railleries, which very much diverted me. Having
never before seen any thing of that nature, I could not enough admire
the magnificence of the altars, the rich images of the saints (all
massy silver) and the _enchassures_ of the relicks (sic); though I
could not help murmuring, in my heart, at the profusion of pearls,
diamonds, and rubies, bestowed on the adornment of rotten teeth, and
dirty rags. I own that I had wickedness enough to covet St Ursula's
pearl necklaces; though perhaps this was no wickedness at all, an
image not being certainly one's neighbour's; but I went yet farther,
and wished the wench herself converted into dressing-plate. I should
also gladly see converted into silver, a great St Christopher, which
I imagine would look very well in a cistern. These were my pious
reflections: though I was very well satisfied to see, piled up to the
honour of our nation, the skulls of the eleven thousand virgins. I
have seen some hundreds of relicks here of no less, consequence; but
I will not imitate the common stile (sic) of travellers so far, as to
give you a list of them; being persuaded, that you have no manner of
curiosity for the titles given to jaw-bones and bits of worm-eaten
wood.--Adieu, I am just going to supper, where I shall drink your
health in an admirable sort of Lorrain (sic) wine, which I am sure is
the same you call Burgundy in London, &c. &c.
LET. V.
TO THE COUNTESS OF B----.
_Nuremberg, Aug_. 22. O. S. 1716.
AFTER five days travelling post, I could not sit down to write on any
other occasion, than to tell my dear lady, that I have not forgot her
obliging command, of sending her some account of my travels. I have
already passed a large part of Germany, have seen all that is
remarkable in Cologn, Frankfort, Wurtsburg, and this place. 'Tis
impossible not to observe the difference between the free towns and
those under the government of absolute princes, as all the little
sovereigns of Germany are. In the first, there appears an air of
commerce and plenty. The streets are well-built, and full of people,
neatly and plainly dressed. The shops are loaded with merchandise,
and the commonalty are clean and cheerful. In the other you see a
sort of shabby finery, a number of dirty people of quality tawdered
(sic) out; narrow nasty streets out of repair, wretchedly thin of
inhabitants, and above half of the common sort asking alms. I cannot
help fancying one under the figure of a clean Dutch citizen's wife,
and the other like a poor town lady of pleasure, painted and ribboned
out in her head-dress, with tarnished silver-laced shoes, a ragged
under-petticoat, a miserable mixture of vice and poverty.--They have
sumptuary laws in this town, which distinguish their rank by their
dress, prevent the excess which ruins so many other cities, and has a
more agreeable effect to the eye of a stranger, than our fashions. I
need not be ashamed to own, that I wish these laws were in force in
other parts of the world. When one considers impartially, the merit
of a rich suit of clothes in most places, the respect and the smiles
of favour it procures, not to speak of the envy and the sighs it
occasions (which is very often the principal charm to the wearer),
one is forced to confess, that there is need of an uncommon
understanding to resift the temptation of pleasing friends and
mortifying rivals; and that it is natural to young people to fall
into a folly, which betrays them to that want of money which is the
source of a thousand basenesses (sic). What numbers of men have
begun the world with generous inclinations, that have afterwards been
the instruments of bringing misery on a whole people, being led by
vain expence (sic) into debts that they could clear no other way but
by the forfeit of their honour, and which they never could have
contracted, if the respect the multitude pays to habits, was fixed by
law, only to a particular colour or cut of plain cloth! These
reflections draw after them others that are too melancholy. I will
make haste to put them out of your head by the farce of relicks, with
which I have been entertained in all Romish churches.
THE Lutherans are not quite free from these follies. I have seen
here, in the principal church, a large piece of the cross set in
jewels, and the point of the spear, which they told me very gravely,
was the same that pierced the side of our Saviour. But I was
particularly diverted in a little Roman Catholic church which is
permitted here, where the professors of that religion are not very
rich, and consequently cannot adorn their images in so rich a manner
as their neighbour. For, not to be quite destitute of all finery,
they have dressed up an image of our Saviour over the altar, in a
fair full-bottomed wig very well powdered. I imagine I see your lady
ship stare at this article, of which you very much doubt the
veracity; but, upon my word, I have not yet made use of the privilege
of a traveller; and my whole account is written with the same plain
sincerity of heart, with which I assure you that I am, dear Madam,
yours, &c. &c.
LET. VI.
To MRS P----.
_Ratisbon, Aug_. 30 O. S. 1716.
I HAD the pleasure of receiving yours, but the day before I left
London. I give you a thousand thanks for your good wishes, and have
such an opinion of their efficacy that, I am persuaded, I owe in
part, to them, the good luck of having proceeded so far on my long
journey without any ill accident. For I don't reckon it any, to have
been stopped a few days in this town by a cold, since it has not only
given me an opportunity of seeing all that is curious in it, but of
making some acquaintance with the ladies, who have all been to see me
with great civility, particularly _Madame_ ----, the wife of our
king's envoy from Hanover. She has carried me to all the assemblies,
and I have been magnificently entertained at her house, which is one
of the finest here. You know, that all the nobility of this place
are envoys from different states. Here are a great number of them,
and they might pass their time agreeably enough, if they were less
delicate on the point of ceremony. But instead of joining in the
design of making the town as pleasant to one another as they can, and
improving their little societies, they amuse themselves no other way
than with perpetual quarrels, which they take care to eternize (sic),
by leaving them to their successors; and an envoy to Ratisbon
receives, regularly, half a dozen quarrels, among the perquisites of
his employment. You may be sure the ladies are not wanting, on their
side, in cherishing and improving these important _picques_, which
divide the town almost into as many parties, as there are families.
They chuse rather to suffer the mortification of sitting almost alone
on their assembly nights, than to recede one jot from their
pretensions. I have not been here above a week, and yet I have heard
from almost every one of them the whole history of their wrongs, and
dreadful complaint of the injustice of their neighbours, in hopes to
draw me to their party. But I think it very prudent to remain
neuter, though, if I was to stay amongst them, there would be no
possibility of continuing so, their quarrels running so high, that
they will not be civil to those that visit their adversaries. The
foundation of these everlasting disputes, turns entirely upon rank,
place, and the title of Excellency, which they all pretend to; and,
what is very hard, will give it to no body. For my part, I could not
forbear advising them, (for the public good) to give the title of
Excellency to every body; which would include the receiving it from
every body; but the very mention of such a dishonourable peace, was
received with as much indignation, as Mrs Blackaire did the motion of
a reference. And indeed, I began to think myself ill-natured, to
offer to take from them, in a town where there are so few diversions,
so entertaining an amusement. I know that my peaceable disposition
already gives me a very ill figure, and that 'tis _publicly_
whispered as a piece of impertinent pride in me, that I have hitherto
been saucily civil to every body, as if I thought nobody good enough
to quarrel with. I should be obliged to change my behaviour, if I
did not intend to pursue my journey in a few days. I have been to
see the churches here, and had the permission of touching the
relicks, which was never suffered in places where I was not known. I
had, by this privilege, the opportunity of making an observation,
which I doubt not might have been made in all the other churches,
that the emeralds and rubies which they show round their relicks and
images are most of them false; though they tell you that many of the
_Crosses_ and _Madonas_ (sic), set round with these stones, have been
the gifts of emperors and other great princes. I don't doubt,
indeed, but they were at first jewels of value; but the good fathers
have found it convenient to apply them to other uses, and the people
are just as well satisfied with bits of glass amongst these relicks.
They shewed me a prodigious claw set in gold, which they called the
claw of a griffin; and I could not forbear asking the reverend priest
that shewed it, Whether the griffin was a saint? The question almost
put him beside his gravity; but he answered, They only kept it as a
curiosity. I was very much scandalised at a large silver image of
the _Trinity_, where the _Father_ is represented under the figure of
a decrepit old man, with a beard down to his knees, and triple crown
on his head, holding in his arms the _Son_, fixed on the cross, and
the _Holy Ghost_, in the shape of a dove, hovering over him.
Madam ---- is come this minute to call me to the assembly, and forces
me to tell you, very abruptly, that I am ever your, &c. &c.
LET. VII.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Vienna, Sept_. 8. O. S. 1716.
I AM now, my dear sister, safely arrived at Vienna; and, I thank God,
have not at all suffered in my health, nor (what is dearer to me) in
that of my child, by all our fatigues. We travelled by water from
Ratisbon, a journey perfectly agreeable, down the Danube, in one of
those little vessels, that they, very properly, call wooden houses,
having in them all the conveniences of a palace, stoves in the
chambers, kitchens, &c. They are rowed by twelve men each, and move
with such incredible swiftness, that in the same day you have the
pleasure of a vast variety of prospects; and, within the space of a
few hours, you have the pleasure of seeing a populous city adorned
with magnificent palaces, and the most romantic solitudes, which
appear distant from the commerce of mankind, the banks of the Danube
being charmingly diversified with woods, rocks, mountains covered
with vines, fields of corn, large cities, and ruins of ancient
castles. I saw the great towns of Passau and Lintz, famous for the
retreat of the imperial court, when Vienna was besieged. This town,
which has the honour of being the emperor's residence, did not at all
answer my expectation, nor ideas of it, being much less than I
expected to find it; the streets are very close, and so narrow, one
cannot observe the fine fronts of the palaces, though many of them
very well deserve observation, being truly magnificent. They are
built of fine white stone, and are excessive high. For as the town
is too little for the number of the people that desire to live in it,
the builders seem to have projected to repair that misfortune, by
clapping one town on the top of another, most of the houses being of
five, and some of them six stories. You may easily imagine, that the
streets being so narrow, the rooms are extremely dark; and, what is
an inconveniency much more intolerable, in my opinion, there is no
house has so few as five or six families in it. The apartments of
the greatest ladies, and even of the ministers of state, are divided,
but by a partition, from that of a taylor (sic) or shoemaker; and I
know no body that has above two floors in any house, one for their
own use, and one higher for their servants. Those that have houses
of their own, let Out the rest of them to whoever will take them; and
thus the great stairs, (which are all of stone) are as common and as
dirty as the street. 'Tis true, when you have once travelled through
them, nothing can be more surprisingly magnificent than the
apartments. They are commonly a _suite_ of eight or ten large rooms,
all inlaid, the doors and windows richly carved and gilt, and the
furniture, such as is seldom seen in the palaces of sovereign princes
in other countries. Their apartments are adorned with hangings of
the finest tapestry of Brussels, prodigious large looking glasses in
silver frames, fine japan tables, beds, chairs, canopies, and window
curtains of the richest Genoa damask or velvet, almost covered with
gold lace or embroidery. All this is made gay by pictures, and vast
jars of japan china, and large lustres of rock crystal. I have
already had the honour of being invited to dinner by several of the
first people of quality; and I must do them the justice to say, the
good taste and magnificence of their tables, very well answered to
that of their furniture. I have been more than once entertained with
fifty dishes of meat all served in silver, and well dressed; the
desert (sic) proportionable, served in the finest china. But the
variety and richness of their wines, is what appears the most
surprising. The constant way is, to lay a list of their names upon
the plates of the guests, along with the napkins; and I have counted
several times to the number of eighteen different sorts, all
exquisite in their kinds. I was yesterday at Count Schoonbourn, the
vice-chancellor's garden, where I was invited to dinner. I must own,
I never saw a place so perfectly delightful as the Fauxburg (sic) of
Vienna. It is very large, and almost wholly composed of delicious
palaces. If the emperor found it proper to permit the gates of the
town to be laid open, that the Fauxburg might be joined to it, he
would have one of the largest and best built cities in Europe. Count
Schoonbourn's villa is one of the most magnificent; the furniture all
rich brocades, so well fancied and fitted up, nothing can look more
gay and splendid; not to speak of a gallery, full of rarities of
coral, mother of pearl, and, throughout the whole house, a profusion
of gilding, carving, fine paintings, the most beautiful porcelain,
statues of alabaster and ivory, and vast orange and lemon trees in
gilt pots. The dinner was perfectly fine and well ordered, and made
still more agreeable by the good humour of the Count. I have not yet
been at court, being forced to stay for my gown, without which there
is no waiting on the empress; though I am not without great
impatience to see a beauty that has been the admiration of so many
different nations. When I have had that honour, I will not fail to
let you know my real thoughts, always taking a particular pleasure in
communicating them to my dear sister.
LETTER VIII
TO MR. P----.
_Vienna, Sept_.14. O. S. (sic)
PERHAPS you'll laugh at me for thanking you very gravely for all the
obliging concern you express for me. 'Tis certain that I may, if I
please, take the fine things you say to me for wit and raillery; and,
it may be, it would be taking them right. But I never, in my life,
was half so well disposed to take you in earnest as I am at present;
and that distance which makes the continuation of your friendship
improbable, has very much increased my faith in it. I find that I
have, (as well as the rest of my sex) whatever face I set on't, a
strong disposition to believe in miracles. Don't fancy, however,
that I am infected by the air of these popish countries; I have,
indeed, so far wandered from the discipline of the church of England,
as to have been last Sunday at the opera, which was performed in the
garden of the Favorita; and I was so much pleased with it, I have not
yet repented my seeing it. Nothing of that kind ever was more
magnificent; and I can easily believe what I am told, that the
decorations and habits cost the emperor thirty thousand pounds
Sterling. The stage was built over a very large canal, and, at the
beginning of the second act, divided into two parts, discovering the
water, on which there immediately came, from different parts, two
fleets of little gilded vessels, that gave the representation of a
naval fight. It is not easy to imagine the beauty of this scene,
which I took particular notice of. But all the rest were perfectly
fine in their kind. The story of the opera is the enchantment of
Alcina, which gives opportunities for great variety of machines, and
changes of the scenes, which are performed with a surprising
swiftness. The theatre is so large, that it is hard to carry the eye
to the end of it, and the habits in the utmost magnificence, to the
number of one hundred and eight. No house could hold such large
decorations: but the ladies all sitting in the open air, exposes them
to great inconveniences; for there is but one canopy for the imperial
family; and the first night it was represented, a shower of rain
happening, the opera was broke off, and the company crowded away in
such confusion, that I was almost squeezed to death.--But if their
operas are thus delightful, their comedies are in as high a degree
ridiculous. They have but one play-house, where I had the curiosity
to go to a German comedy, and was very glad it happened to be the
story of Amphitrion (sic). As that subject has been already handled
by a Latin, French, and English poet, I was curious to see what an
Austrian author would make of it. I understand enough of that
language to comprehend the greatest part of it; and besides, I took
with me a lady, that had the goodness to explain to me every word.
The way is, to take a box, which holds four, for yourself and
company. The fixed price is a gold ducat. I thought the house very
low and dark; but I confess, the comedy admirably recompensed that
defect. I never laughed so much in my life. It began with Jupiter's
falling in love out of a peep-hole in the clouds, and ended with the
birth of Hercules. But what was most pleasant, was the use Jupiter
made of his metamorphosis; for you no sooner saw him under the figure
of Amphitrion, but, instead of flying to Alcmena, with the raptures Mr
Dryden puts into his mouth, he sends for Amphitrion's taylor, and
cheats him of a laced coat, and his banker of a bag of money, a Jew
of a diamond ring, and bespeaks a great supper in his name; and the
greatest part of the comedy turns upon poor Amphitrion's being
tormented by these people for their debts. Mercury uses Sofia in the
same manner. But I could not easily pardon the liberty the poet has
taken of larding his play with, not only indecent expressions, but
such gross words, as I don't think Our mob would suffer from a
mountebank. Besides, the two Sofias very fairly let down their
breeches in the direct view of the boxes, which were full of people
of the first rank, that seemed very well pleased with their
entertainment, and assured me, this was a celebrated piece. I shall
conclude my letter with this remarkable relation, very well worthy
the serious consideration of Mr Collier. I won't trouble you with
farewel (sic) compliments, which I think generally as impertinent, as
courtesies at leaving the room, when the visit had been too long
already.
LET. IX.
TO THE COUNTESS OF ----.
_Vienna, Sept_. 14. O. S.
THOUGH I have so lately troubled you, my dear sister, with a long
letter, yet I will keep my promise in giving you an account of my
first going to court. In order to that ceremony, I was squeezed up
in a gown, and adorned with a gorget and the other implements
thereunto belonging; a dress very inconvenient, but which certainly
shows the neck and shape to great advantage. I cannot forbear giving
you some description of the fashions here, which are more monstrous,
and contrary to all common sense and reason, than 'tis possible for
you to imagine. They build certain fabrics of gauze on their heads,
about a yard high, consisting of three or four stories, fortified
with numberless yards of heavy ribbon. The foundation of this
structure is a thing they call a _Bourle_, which is exactly of the
same shape and kind, but about four times as big as those rolls our
prudent milk-maids make use of to fix their pails upon. This machine
they cover With their own hair, which they mix with a great deal of
false, it being a particular beauty to have their heads too large to
go into a moderate tub. Their hair is prodigiously powdered to
conceal the mixture, and set out with three or four rows of bodkins
(wonderfully large, that stick out two or three inches from their
hair) made of diamonds, pearls, red, green, and yellow stones, that
it certainly requires as much art and experience to carry the load
upright, as to dance upon May-day with the garland. Their whale-bone
petticoats outdo ours by several yards, circumference, and cover some
acres of ground. You may easily suppose how this extraordinary dress
sets off and improves the natural ugliness, with which God Almighty
has been pleased to endow them, generally speaking. Even the lovely
empress herself is obliged to comply, in some degree, with these
absurd fashions, which they would not quit for all the world. I had
a private audience (according to ceremony) of half an hour, and then
all the other ladies were permitted to come and make their court. I
was perfectly charmed with the empress; I cannot however tell you
that her features are regular; her eyes are not large, but have a
lively look full of sweetness; her complexion the finest I ever saw;
her nose and forehead well made, but her mouth has ten thousand
charms, that touch the soul. When she smiles, 'tis with a beauty and
sweetness that forces adoration. She has a vast quantity of fine
fair hair; but then her person!--one must speak of it poetically to
do it rigid justice; all that the poets have said of the mien of
Juno, the air of Venus, come not up to the truth. The Graces move
with her; the famous statue of Medicis was not formed with more
delicate proportions; nothing can be added to the beauty of her neck
and hands. Till I saw them, I did not believe there were any in
nature so perfect, and I was almost sorry that my rank here did not
permit me to kiss them; but they are kissed sufficiently; for every
body that waits on her pays that homage at their entrance, and when
they take leave. When the ladies were come in, she sat down to
Quinze. I could not play at a game I had never seen before, and she
ordered me a seat at her right hand, and had the goodness to talk to
me very much, with that grace so natural to her. I expected every
moment, when the men were to come in to pay their court; but this
drawing-room is very different from that of England; no man enters it
but the grand-master, who comes in to advertise the empress of the
approach of the emperor. His imperial majesty did me the honour of
speaking to me in a very obliging manner; but he never speaks to any
of the other ladies; and the whole passes with a gravity and air of
ceremony that has something very formal in it. The empress Amelia,
dowager of the late emperor Joseph, came this evening to wait on the
reigning empress, followed by the two arch-duchesses her daughters,
who are very agreeable young princesses. Their imperial majesties
rose and went to meet her at the door of the room, after which she
was seated in an armed (sic) chair, next the empress, and in the same
manner at supper, and there the men had the permission of paying
their court. The arch-duchesses sat on chairs with backs without
arms. The table was entirely served, and all the dishes set on by
the empress's maids of honour, which are twelve young ladies of the
first quality. They have no salary, but their chamber at court,
where they live in a sort of confinement, not being suffered to go to
the assemblies or public places in town, except in compliment to the
wedding of a sister maid, whom the empress always presents with her
picture set in diamonds. The three first of them are called _Ladies
of the Key_, and wear gold keys by their sides; but what I find most
pleasant, is the custom, which obliges them, as long as they live,
after they have left the empress's service, to make her some present
every year on the day of her feast. Her majesty is served by no
married women but the _grande maitresse_, who is generally a widow of
the first quality, always very old, and is at the same time groom of
the stole, and mother of the maids. The dressers are not, at all, in
the figure they pretend to in England, being looked upon no otherwise
than as downright chambermaids. I had an audience next day Of the
empress mother, a princess of great virtue and goodness, but who
picques herself too much on a violent devotion. She is perpetually
performing extraordinary acts of penance, without having ever done
any thing to deserve them. She has the same number of maids of
honour, whom she suffers to go in colours; but she herself never
quits her mourning; and sure nothing can be more dismal than the
mourning here, even for a brother. There is not the least bit of
linen to be seen; all black crape (sic) instead of it. The neck,
ears and side of the face are covered with a plaited piece of the
same stuff, and the face that peeps out in the midst of it, looks as
if it were pilloried. The widows wear over and above, a crape
forehead cloth; and, in this solemn weed, go to all the public places
of diversion without scruple. The next day I was to wait on the
empress Amelia, who is now at her palace of retirement, half a mile
from the town. I had there the pleasure of seeing a diversion wholly
new to me, but which is the common amusement of this court. The
empress herself was seated on a little throne at the end of the fine
alley in the garden, and on each side of her were ranged two parties
of her ladies of quality, headed by two Young archduchesses, all
dressed in their hair, full of jewels, with fine light guns in their
hands; and at proper distances were placed three oval pictures, which
were the marks to be shot at. The first was that of a CUPID, filling
a bumper of Burgundy, and the motto, _'Tis easy to be valiant here_.
The second a FORTUNE, holding a garland in her hand, the motto, _For
her whom Fortune favours_. The third was a SWORD, with a laurel
wreath on the point, the motto, _Here is no shame to be
vanquished_.--Near the empress was a gilded trophy wreathed with
flowers, and made of little crooks, on which were hung rich Turkish
handkerchiefs, tippets, ribbons, laces, &c. for the small prizes.
The empress gave the first with her own hand, which was a fine ruby
ring set round with diamonds, in a gold snuff-box. There was for the
second, a little Cupid set with brilliants, and besides these a set
of fine china for the tea-table, enchased in gold, japan trunks,
fans, and many gallantries of the same nature. All the men of
quality at Vienna were spectators; but the ladies only had permission
to shoot, and the arch-duchess Amelia carried off the first prize. I
was very well pleased with having seen this entertainment, and I do
not know but it might make as good a figure as the prize-shooting in
the Eneid, if I could write as well as Virgil. This is the
favourite pleasure of the emperor, and there is rarely a week without
some feast of this kind, which makes the young ladies skilful enough
to defend a fort. They laughed very much to see me afraid to handle
a gun. My dear sister, you will easily pardon an abrupt conclusion.
I believe, by this time, you are ready to think I shall never
conclude at all.
LET. X.
TO THE LADY R----.
_Vienna, Sept_. 20. O. S. 1716.
I AM extremely rejoiced, but not at all surprised, at the long,
delightful letter, you have had the goodness to send me. I know that
you can think of an absent friend even in the midst of a court, and
you love to oblige, where you can have no view of a return; and I
expect from you that you should love me, and think of me, when you
don't see me. I have compassion for the mortifications that you tell
me befel (sic) our little old friend, and I pity her much more, since
I know, that they are only owing to the barbarous customs of our
country. Upon my word, if she were here, she would have no other
fault but that of being something too young for the fashion, and she
has nothing to do but to transplant herself hither about seven years
hence, to be again a young and blooming beauty. I can assure you,
that wrinkles, or a small stoop in the shoulders, nay, even
gray-hairs (sic), are no objection to the making new conquests. I
know you cannot easily figure to yourself, a young fellow of five and
twenty, ogling my lady S-ff--k with passion, or pressing to hand the
countess of O----d from an opera. But such are the sights I see
every day, and I don't perceive any body surprized (sic) at them but
myself. A woman, till five and thirty, is only looked upon as a raw
girl, and can possibly make no noise in the world, till about forty.
I don't know what your ladyship may think of this matter; but 'tis a
considerable comfort to me, to know there is upon earth such a
paradise for old women; and I am content to be insignificant at
present, in the design of returning when I am fit to appear no where
else. I cannot help, lamenting, on this occasion, the pitiful case
of too many English ladies, long since retired to prudery and
ratafia, who, if their stars had luckily conducted hither, would
shine in the first rank of beauties. Besides, that perplexing word
_reputation_, has quite another meaning here than what you give it at
London; and getting a lover is so far from losing, that 'tis properly
getting reputation; ladies being much more respected in regard to the
rank of their lovers, than that of their husbands.