good house within a parke. You enter a large hall, on the left hand
leads to a little parlour down to y^e Kitchins, the halfe pace att the
upper end of the hall leads into dineing roome, drawing roome, and a
large staire-case with good pictures; there you enter another large
dineing roome with great Compass windows and fine Pictures of the
family. Within is a drawing roome and Chambers and Closets well
proportioned, little or no ffurniture was up, only in y^e worst roomes;
in one Closet att each doore was Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth’s
pictures to the ffoote in bibb and apron very pretty: in one roome was
the Lord North and Ladyes picture, which was Lord Chiefe Justice and
their sonnes picture in the middle, all at length,—many good Pictures in
most roomes. There was a part new built all the new ffashion way which
was designed for the present Lord Gilford and Lady. The Gardens are very
good, the outhouses and Stables handsome.
Banbury is a pretty little town, the streets broad and well pitched, the
whole Country is very pleasant and the land rich—a red earth. They make
some of their fences with stones—dry walls without Morter. It seemes
much on a flatt and you have a large prospect, from thence to London we
go by Alesbury 20 mile, thence to London 30 mile.
A journey my mother went from Newtontony to Durly in the fforest 15
miles, thence to Nurstead 15 mile to a Relations house, (Aunt Holts,) a
neate new built house with brick and stone—a hall, little parlour on y^e
left side, a back door into a Court built round with all the offices out
to y^e stables and barnes: on the right side a great parlour and drawing
roome y^t opened into the garden w^{ch} were fine gravel walks, grass
plotts and beyond it a garden of flower trees and all sorts of Herbage,
store of fruit, and freestone broad walke in y^e Middle to y^e house.
Y^e Chambers are very good and Convenient and in y^e ffront is a place
walled in, beyond is a long ground sett with rows of trees; on y^e right
side of y^e house is a large grove of firrs halfe scotts halfe norroway
which lookes very nobly. The roades all about this Country are very
stony, narrow and steep hills or else very dirty as in most of Sussex,
but good rich land; it is in 2 mile of petersffield in Hampshire w^{ch}
is a good little neate town. In a mile of it is a Gentlemans house
Called Maple Duram which Might now be new named into yew, ffor the great
number of yew trees set thick in severall green walkes that grows high
and is cutt close to the body up almost to the top, and y^e tops are
left in a great head that spreads and makes it very shady and pleasant.
From thence we went to Guilford w^{ch} is a good town built with stone.
The streetes are broad—thence to Kingston on the Thames 30 mile thence
to London 10 mile, from London againe to Colebrooke 15 miles, thence to
Maidenhead 10. You go in sight of Winsor Castle on the left hand and
Eaton Colledge as you pass the bridge at Maidenhead, and on y^e right
hand you see Cliffton house a fine Building of y^e Duke of Buckingams.
Thence to Redding 5 miles w^{ch} is a pretty large place, severall
Churches, in one lyes buried one of my sisters that Dyed at my
Grandmothers there of the small pox, her monument of white marble stands
up in the Chancell. From Redding to the Veale 5 miles, Sad Clay Deep way
this is in Barkshire, thence to Newbery 8 mile all Clay Mirey ground.
Newbery is a little town famous for makeing the best whipps—its a good
market for Corn and trade. Thence to Newtontony over Way hill famous for
a Faire kept there on Michelmas day.
My journey to London after my Mothers death was by Sutton 14 mile thence
to Baseing stoke 12 mile, a large town for to Entertaine travellers and
commodious, 2 mile beyond we pass by Basen on the left side, a house of
the Duke of Boltons w^{th} a large parke and gardens. Y^e house is not
fine being much demolished and spoyled after the Civil warres, it being
a garrison held by y^e King. On the right hand at a mile distance you
come in sight also of a great building like a little town—the house of
S^r Robert Hendlys; so to Hartffordbridge is 8 mile more thats only a
place full of jnns for the conveniency of the road. Thence over a heath
you go to Bagshott that is 8 mile all on a heavy sand where you come by
a parke of y^e kings, and in it is a pretty house—thence to Eggum 8 mile
very heavy sand, so to Staines where you cross the Thames on a bridge to
Midlsex and so to Houndslow 4 mile, to Brandford 4 mile, to Turnumgreen
2, thence to Hammersmith 2 to Kensington 2 and London 2 miles.
Another journey ffrom London to Alsebury 30 mile, from thence to great
Horrwood in Buckinghamshire 10 miles, from thence I went to Hillsdon a
house of Mr Dentons 7 miles which stands on a Riseing in the middle of a
fine Parke and lookes very well; its not large, a good hall w^{th} 2
parlours and has a glide through the house into the gardens w^{ch} are
neately kept—the grass and Gravel walkes w^{th} dwarfs and flower beds
and much fruit; the prospect is fine all over the gardens and parke, and
the river and woods beyond them. We went to Thorndon S^r Thomas
Tyrrells, a good old house and very good gardens, some walkes like
Arbours Close, others shady others open, some gravel, others grass with
Cyprus’ trees, a fine river runnes all the back side of the garden,
where is very good ffish. The house is low but runnes much on the
ground, so there are many roomes w^{ch} are lofty but its not built in
many storyes. Thence we went 4 mile to Stow S^r Rich^d Temples new house
that stands pretty high. You enter into a hall very lofty with a gallery
round the top, thence through to a great parlour that opens in a
Bellcony to the garden, and is a visto thro’ the whole house, so that on
the one side you view the gardens w^{ch} are one below another w^{th}
low breast walls and Taress walkes, and is replenished with all y^e
Curiosityes or Requisites for ornament, pleasure and use, beyond it are
orchards and woods with rows of trees; on the other side you see y^e
parke rowes of trees; the roomes are all lofty and good, the hall is not
large but sutable to its height—a great many Chambers and roomes of
state. Some the ground floores are inlaid, ffine Pictures and good
staircase and gallery w^{ch} leads to the Ledds through a large Cupelow
w^{ch} gives y^e prospect of the whole Country. We went to horrwood 7
mile, by severall other seates of S^r Ralph Verny’s who has most exact
ffine gardens: within two mile off Horrwood is a well of minerall waters
from Iron just like Tunbridg and as good. I dranke them a
fortnight—there are severall of the same sort of springs all about that
Country. Thence I went to Buckinghamtown 7 mile, a very neate place and
we passed the river Ouise over a very high bridge tho’ the river seemed
not then so very full, but it swells after great raines which makes them
build their arches so large. Thence to Banbury in Oxfordshire 13 miles,
thence to morton Hindmost in Glocestershire 14 miles, thence to Hales 8
miles over steep stony hills, a house of Lord Tracy’s where my brother
Say lived—a good old house, and there is a pretty Chappel with a Gallery
ffor people of quality to sitt in w^{ch} goes out of the hall that is a
lofty large roome: good parlour and severall good lodging roomes. You
ascend into the house by Severall stone stepps. Within 2 mile of this is
a better house of y^e Lord Tracy with a very good parke which stands so
high that by the Lodge I rode up y^e banks I could see all the parke
about and y^e deer feeding and running.
There is a little river and large ponds—it gives you a good sight of the
Country about, w^{ch} is pretty much inclosed and woods a rich deep
Country and so the roads bad. There are severall high hills that I was
on that gave a large prospect to y^e eye. I saw some of this land
improved in the produce of woods w^{ch} y^e dyers use—its ordered in
this manner, all the Summer season if drie for 4 or 5 months they sow it
or plant it, but I thinke its sown—then its very Clean wedd when grown
up a little out of y^e ground, for it rises no higher then Lettice and
Much in such tuffts; y^e Coullour off y^e Leafe is much like Scabins and
the shape Resembling that: this they Cutt of Close to y^e ground and soe
out of y^e same roofe Springs the Leafe againe, this they do 4 tymes,
then in a Mill w^{th} a horse they Grind the Leaves into a paste, so
make it up in balls and drye them in a Penthouse to secure it from
raine—only the wind dryes it. This plantation of about 12 acres would
Employ 2 or 3 ffamilyes Men, Women and Children, and so they Generally
Come and Make little hutts for themselves for y^e Season to tend it.
Here I saw flax In the growth. The smell of the Woode is so strong and
offencive you can scarce beare it at y^e Mill: I could not fforse my
horse neare it.
ffrom thence I returned. Backe by a place where is a stone stands to
Divide ffour shires—Worcester, Oxford Glocester and Warwickshire—so I
ascended there a high hill and travaill’d all on y^e top of y^e hills a
pleasant and a good Roade. I came to Rowle Stone where are many such
greate stones as is at Stonidge, one stands uppright, a broad Stone
Called the King’s Stone, being the place a Saxon King was secured
against his enemies; thence to Broughton in all 26 miles. Thence I went
to Astrop where is a Steele water Much ffrequented by y^e Gentry, it has
some Mixture of Allum so is not so strong as Tunbridge. There is a ffine
Gravell Walke that is between 2 high Cutt hedges where is a Roome for
the Musick and a Roome for y^e Company besides y^e Private walkes. The
well runnes very quick, they are not Curious in keepeing it, neither is
there any bason for the spring to run out off only a dirty well full of
Moss’s which is all Changed yellow by the water. There are Lodgings
about for y^e Company and a little place Called Sutton. this is four
mile, thence to Oxfford 14 mile all in a very good Road and an exceeding
pleasant Country. You pass by many ffine seates, Park’s, woods, the Land
in Most part of this County is Rich Red Mould and deepe so as they are
forced to Plough their Ground 2 or 3 tymes for wheate and Cannot use
Wheeles to their Ploughs, its rich Land and produces plenty of all
things.
Oxford opens to view 2 mile off, its Scituation is ffine on a Round hill
Environ’d Round with hills adorn’d with Woods and Enclosures, yet not so
neare as to annoy y^e town which stands pleasant and Compact. There is a
ffine Causy for neare two mile by the Road for the Schollars to walke
on, y^e Theater stands the highest of all and much in y^e middle
Encompass’d with y^e Severall Colledges and Churches and other Buildings
whose towers and Spires appeares very Well at a Distance; the Streetes
are very Cleane and well Pitched and pretty broad. The high Streete is a
very Noble one, soe Larg and of a Greate Length. In this is y^e
University Church Called S^t Maryes, which is very large and Lofty but
Nothing very Curious in it. The Theater is a Noble Pile of building, its
Paved with Black and White Marble, exceeding Large and Lofty, built
Round and Supported by its own architecture all stone, noe pillars to
support it; itt has windows all round and full of Gallery’s ffor the
Spectators as well as Disputants when y^e acts are at Oxford. Over the
Rooff of this Large Roome are as Large roomes with Severall Divissions
which are Used for the Drying the Printed Sheetes of bookes, and this
has Light in Ovalls which is quite Round the Theater and in the Middle
is a large Cupelow or Lanthorne Whence your Eye has a very ffine view of
y^e whole town and Country; this is all Supported on its own work. Under
the theater is a roome w^{ch} is ffitted for printing, where I printed
My name Severall tymes. The outside of y^e theater there is a pavement
and spikes of Iron in a Raile round with pillars of stone to secure it
from the street. Just by it is a little building w^{ch} is full of
Antiquityes w^{ch} have many Curiositys in it of Mettles, Stones,
Ambers, Gumms.
There is the picture of a Gentleman y^t was a Great benefactor to it
being a travailer; the fframe of his picture is all wood carved very
finely with all sorts of figures, Leaves, birds, beast and flowers. He
gave them 2 ffine gold Meddals or Silve gilt w^{th} two ffine great
Chaines of the same, one was all curious hollow worke w^{ch} were given
him by some prince beyond the Sea. There is a Cane which looks like a
Solid heavy thing but if you take it in yo^r hands its as light as a
feather, there is a Dwarfe shoe and boote, there are several Loadstones,
and it is pretty to See how y^e steele Clings or follows it, hold it on
the top att some distance the needles stand quite upright, hold it on
either side it moves towards it as it rises and falls.
There are several good Colledges I saw most of y^m. Waddom hall is but
little; in Trinity Colledge is a fine neate Chapple, new made, finely
painted. Christ Church is y^e largest Colledge. The Courts large, y^e
buildings large and lofty; in one of the Courts is a tower new built for
to hang the Mighty Tom, that bell is of a Large size, so great a Weight
they were forced to have engines from London to raise it up to the
tower. There is a fine ring of bells in y^e Colledge S^t Magdalines, its
just by the river, there is to Maudline Hall (which is a very large and
good Cloyster) a very fine gravell walk, two or 3 may walke abreast, and
Rows of trees on either side, and this is round a water w^{ch} Makes it
very pleasant.
S^t Johns Colledge had fine gardens and walkes but I did but just look
into it, so I did into kings, and queens Colledges, and severall of the
rest I looked into, they are much alike in building but none so large as
Christ Church Colledge. I was in New Colledge w^{ch} is very neate, but
not large, the buildings good, Y^e Chapple very fine; Ye Garden was new
makeing, there is a large bason of water In the Middle there is little
walkes and mazes and round mounts for the schollars to divert
themselves.
In Corpus Christus Colledge w^{ch} is but small there I was entertained
at supper and eate of their very good bread and beare which is
remarkably the best anywhere Oxford Bread is.
The Physick garden afforded great diversion and pleasure, the variety of
flowers and plants would have entertained one a week. The few remarkable
things I tooke notice off was y^e Aloes plant w^{ch} is like a great
flag in shape, leaves and Coullour, and grows in the fform of an open
Hartichoake and towards the bottom of each Leafe its very broad and
thicke, In w^{ch} there are hollows or receptacles for y^e Aloes.
There is also y^e sensible plant, take but a Leafe between finger and
thumb and squeeze it and it immediately Curles up together as if pained
and after some tyme opens abroad again, it looks in Coullour like a
filbert Leafe but much narrower and long. There is also the humble plant
that grows on a long slender Stalke and do but strike it, it falls flatt
on y^e ground stalke and all, and after some tyme revives againe and
Stands up, but these are nice plants and are kept mostly under Glass’s,
y^e aire being too rough for them. There is y^e wormwood sage Called
Mountaigne sage, its to all appearance like Comon sage only of yellower
green, a narrow long Leafe full of ribbs; In yo^r Mouth the flavour is
strong of Wormwood to the taste. The library is as large as 2 or 3
roomes but old and a little disreguarded except one part w^{ch} is
parted from the rest, wansecoated and fitted up neate and painted which
was done by King james y^e Second w^n he designed Maudling Colledg for
his priests A Seminary. Here I met w^{th} some of my relations who
accompanyed me about to see some of the Colledges I had not seen before,
S^t John’s Colledge which is large and has a ffine Garden at one
Entrance of it with Large Iron-gates Carved and Gilt; its built round
two Courts: the Library is two walks, one out of the other the inner one
has severall Anatomy’s in Cases and some other Curiosity of Shells,
stone, bristol Diamonds, skins of ffish and beasts. Here they have the
Great Curiosity Much spoken off King Charles the ffirsts Picture; Y^e
whole Lines of fface band and garment to the Shoulders and armes and
garter is all written hand and Containes the whole Comon prayer, itts
very small the Character, but where a straight Line is you May read a
word or two; there is another of Gustaus Adolphus whose portraiture is
represented to the Eye in writeing alsoe and Contains his whole Life and
prowess; there is alsoe the Lord’s prayer and ten Commandments in the
Compass of a Crown piece; there are also Severall books all of writing
on vellum Leaves, and one book written in y^e Chinease Caractor on the
jndian barks off trees; there is alsoe a Book of the Genealogies of the
Kings since the Conquest to King Charles the Second, with the Severall
Coates all Gilded very fresh till the two or three Last w^{ch} is
pretended to be difficient from the art being Lost of Laying Gold so
ffine on anything to polish it, but thats a great Mistake for that art
is still in use in England, but the Excuse served the Negligence or
jgnorance of the workman; there was alsoe One book w^{th} severall Cutts
in it off y^e Conception of Christ till his Ascention. There was alsoe a
ffine prayer book or Mass book of Q. Marias, this was in the new part of
the Library which was neately wanscoated and adorned. There is a ffine
grove of trees and walks all walled round.
Queens Colledge Library is all new and a stately building Emulating that
of Christ Church in Cambridge, it is not so large and stands on one
range of Pillars of stone, the other ffront being all with Statues in
Stone, in Nitches and Carved adornements and on the tops ffigures and
statues. The Staircase is pretty broad but not so ffinely wanscoated or
Carved as that at Cambridge, the roomes is Lofty, but not so large, Well
Wanscoated and there is good Carvings; its Mostly full of Books in the
severall divisions and great Globes, its boarded Under foot, there is no
ballcoany because the prospect is but to a dead wall, its very handsom.
Trinity Colledge Chapple which was not ffinish’d the Last tyme I was at
Oxford but now it is a Beautifull Magnifficent Structure. Its Lofty and
Curiously painted—the Rooffe and Sides y^e history of Christ’s ascention
a very ffine Carving of thin white wood just Like that at Windsor it
being the same hand. The whole Chappel is Wanscoated with Walnut tree
and the fine sweet wood y^e same y^t y^e Lord Oxfford brought over when
high admiral of England, and has wanscoated his hall and staircase with.
It is sweet like Cedar and of a Reddish Coull^r, but y^e graine much
ffiner and well vein’d.
New Colledge which belongs to the ffiennes’s, William of Wickam the
founder, so I look’d on myself as some way a little Interested in that,
here I was very handsomly Entertained by M^r Cross w^{ch} was one of my
nephew Say and Seale’s Tutors when at Oxfford. These ffellowshipp in New
Colledge are about 100 say and a very pretty appartinent of Dineing
Roome, bed Chamber, a studdy and a room for a Servant, tho’ y^e
Serviteurs of the Colledge gives attendance; and here they may Live very
Neatly and well if Sober and have all their Curiosityes they take much
delight in, greens of all sorts, Myrtle, oringe and Lemons and
Lorrestine growing in potts of Earth and so moved about from place to
place and into the aire sometymes. There are severall New Lodgings added
and beautifyed here, the Gardens also w^{th} gravell and Grass walkes,
some shady and a great mount in the Middle w^{ch} is ascended by Degrees
in a round of Green paths deffended by greens cutt Low, and on y^e top
is a summer house. Beyond these Gardens is a bowling-green and round it
a Close shady walke, walled round and a Cutt hedge to the bowling-green.
There are in Oxford 18 Colledges and Six halls viz. New Colledge, Christ
Church, Martin Colledge, Corpus Christy Colledge, Magdalen Colledge,
University Coll, Pembroke Colledge, Linghorn Colledge, which is
overlook’t by the Devil, Brasen-nose Colledge, Wadham Colledge, Queens
Colledge, Belial Colledge, Orrel Colledge, Trinity Colledge, Exetter
Colledge, All-souls Colledge, Jesus Colledge, S^t Johns Colledge,—halls
7 viz Alben hall, Maudlin hall, Newin hall, Hart Hall, Glocester hall,
S^t Mary hall, and Edmond hall. There is a very odd Custom In Queen
Coll. for every new-years-day, there is a Certain Sum Laid out In
Needles and thread w^{ch} was Left by y^e founder and every Gentleman of
that Colledge has one given him w^{th} these words: Take this and be
thrifty.
In New Colledge Garden in y^e plott there is y^e Colledg Armes Cutt in
box and y^e 24 Letters round it.
Next plott a sun-dial cutt in box and true-Lovers knotts; att y^e
entrance of y^e Colledge over y^e gate is the ffiennes’s and y^e
Wickhams Arms Cutt in stone Sett up there by my Nephew Say when he was
at y^e Colledge before his travels. There is a large stone statue in the
Middle of y^e first quadrangle of William of Wickhams y^e ffounder,
railed in w^{th} Iron Grates.
In y^e Library are y^e pictures of some of y^e learned men w^{ch}
belonged formerly to the University.
From Oxford I went to Abington and Cross’d y^e River Thames on a bridge
att y^e end of y^e town and so Entered into Barkshire and rode along by
y^e thames side a good way, w^{ch} was full of Barges and Lighters—its 6
mile to Abington. Before I proceed will Insert y^e names of y^e
ffounders of y^e halls and Colledges in Oxford. University Colledge was
founded by King Alfred. Baliol Coll. was founded by John and David
Baliol, Merton Coll. by Walter de Mert, Exetter Coll. by Walter
Stapleton, Oriel Colledge by King Edward the second, Queen Coll. by
Robert Egglesfield, New Colledge by W^m of Wickham, Lincoln Colledge by
Richard Fleming, All souls Coll. by Henry Chicklay Magdalin Coll. by W^m
Wainfleet, Brason-nose Coll. by W^m Smith, and Rich^d Sutton,
Corpus-Christy Coll. by Rich^d fox, Christ-Church Coll. by Henry y^e
eight, Trinity Colledge by Tho. Pope, S^t Johns Coll. Thomas white,
Jesus Colledge by Queen Elizabeth, Wadham Coll. by Nicholas and Dorothy
Wadham, Pembrooke Coll. by Thomas Feisdale and Rich^d Whitewick, Hart
Hall by Walter Stapleton, S^t Mary Hall by King Edward the 2^d, Newin
Hall by W^m of Wickham, Magdalen Hall by W^m of Wainfleet, Gloster Hall
by thomas White, Alton Hall by y^e abbess of Alban, St Edmond Hall by
y^e arch Bishop of Canterbury.
From thence I went to Abington. Abington town seemes a very well built
town and the Market Cross is the ffinest in England, its all of free
stone and very Lofty; Even ye Isles or Walk below is a Lofty arch on
severall Pillars of square Stone and four square Pillars: over it are
Large Roomes with handsome windows, above w^{ch} is some Roomes with
Windows and Little Like the Theatre att Oxford only this is a Square
building and that round, it makes a very ffine appearance.
From thence I went to Elsly 8 mile farther, a little Market town, good
Inns thence Newbury. Most of this way is much on Downs and good Roads,
its 7 mile to Newbury where I called on an old acquaintance Marryed to a
tradesman M^r Every, who is so Like the Minister his Uncle y^t was my
acquaintance. Here I staid an hour and then proceeded on to Basenstoke
12 long miles, being my ready road to Chichister, and from Basenstoke to
Alton 8 mile and from thence to Petersffield and to Nurstead 11 long
Miles, this was in Hampshire so was Basenstoke: here I lay at a
Relations House M^r Holt that marry’d My Mothers sister. From thence I
went to Chichester through a very ffine Parke of the Lord Tankervailes,
stately woods and shady tall trees at Least 2 mile, in y^e Middle stands
his house w^{ch} is new built, square, 9 windows in y^e ffront and seven
in the sides. Brickwork w^{th} free stone coynes and windows, itts in
the Midst of fine gardens, Gravell and Grass walks and bowling green,
w^{th} breast walls Divideing each from other, and so discovers the
whole to view. Att ye Entrance a Large Coart w^{th} Iron gates open
w^{ch} Leads to a less, ascending some stepps, ffree stone in a round,
thence up More Stepps to a terrass, so to the house; it looks very neate
and all orchards and yards convenient. Thence I entered into Sussex and
soe Chichester, w^{ch} is 12 miles. This is but a Little Citty
Encompass’d with a wall w^{th} 4 gates which Casts the two streetes
directly across each other and so Lookes through from Gate to Gate, one
Streete does, the other it seemes did so formerly, but in new building
of some of their houses they have encroach’d into the Streete and so
hinders the through visto. In Midst of these 2 or 4 streetes Divided by
the Market place is a very faire Cross of Stone Like a Church or greate
arch, its pretty Large and pirramydy form w^{th} severall Carvings. The
Cathedrall is pretty Lofty, y^e painting on y^e Roofe in the quire and
Isles Looked very ffresh tho’ 300 yeares old, there is in the jsle on
y^e roofe y^e phaney of 6 faces joyned and 6 eyes and yet each face has
two eyes and in another place the faces turned outward and so the 6
faces are 12 eyes. The Quire is good, there is a fixed pulpit in it
overight y^e Bishops seate w^{ch} is not usual, I never saw it
before—Usually they have pulpits that are Moveable.