Thence we went to Burport about 8 miles—The wayes are stony

Through England

On a Side Saddle

IN THE TIME OF WILLIAM AND MARY

BEING THE DIARY OF

_CELIA FIENNES._

--------------

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY

THE HON. MRS GRIFFITHS.

---------------------

_LONDON:

Field & Tuer, The Leadenhall Press, E.C.

Simpkin, Marshall & Co.; Hamilton, Adams & Co._

----------

_New York: Scribner & Welford, 743 & 745, Broadway._

--

1888

------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Illustration:

FIELD & TUER,

THE LEADENHALL PRESS, E.C.

(T. 4346)

]

------------------------------------------------------------------------

_THIS VOLUME_

IS

Dedicated

TO THE DEAR MEMORY OF

My Father,

13TH BARON SAYE AND SELE.

E. W. G.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

INTRODUCTION.

-------

THE account of the several journeys through England undertaken by my

kinswoman, Celia Fiennes, in the reign of William and Mary, may prove

interesting, as shewing the manners and customs of those times. The

writer’s diligent and attentive observation of details concerning the

various counties through which she passed, either on horseback or in her

equipage, and her descriptions of the many gentlemen’s seats visited by

her, seem worthy of notice and preservation. Numerous towns are

described, and a great many churches and country seats—some of which

doubtless no longer exist—are minutely detailed. There being little

literature of this kind and period in existence, Celia Fiennes’s diary

almost takes the position and value of an historical document. The

portion relating to London is interesting. The Lord Mayor’s Show and

other ceremonies are fully described. The perusal of these quaint and

straight-forward pages, in which there is little pretence to style,

gives a good idea of what England was two hundred years back. The only

actual date mentioned is 1695. The absence of roads strikes one, and

also the unimportance of what are now the great manufacturing districts

of the north. Bristol appears to have been the second city in the

kingdom. The fashionable baths and spas and style of bathing are

minutely described. With the exception of the dome, St Paul’s Cathedral

was finished, and Whitehall Palace had recently been burned—the

authoress suspects by Papist incendiaries.

The original MS., given to me by my father, has been copied verbatim, as

I believe any correction or alteration would spoil its quaint

originality. Celia Fiennes was daughter of Colonel Nathaniel Fiennes, a

Parliamentarian Officer, by his marriage with Miss Whitehead, and was

sister of the third Viscount Saye and Sele.

EMILY W. GRIFFITHS.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

TO THE READER.

-------

AS this was never designed: soe not likely to fall into the hands of any

but my near relations, there needs not much to be said to Excuse or

recommend it. Something may be diverting and proffitable tho’ not to

Gentlemen that have travelled more about England, staid longer in

places, might have more acquaintance and more opportunity to be

inform’d. My Journeys as they were begun to regain my health by variety

and change of aire and exercise, soe whatever promoted that was pursued;

and those informations of things as could be obtein’d from jnns en

passant, or from some acquaintance, inhabitants of such places could

ffurnish me with for my diversion, I thought necessary to remark: that

as my bodily health was promoted my mind should not appear totally

unoccupied, and the collecting it together remain for my after

conversation (with such as might be inquisitive after such and such

places) to w^{ch} might have recourse; and as most I converse with knows

both the ffreedom and Easyness I speak and write as well as my deffect

in all, so they will not expect exactness or politeness in this book,

tho’ such Embellishments might have adorned the descriptions and suited

the nicer taste.

Now thus much without vanity may be asserted of the subject, that if all

persons, both Ladies, much more Gentlemen, would spend some of their

tyme in Journeys to visit their native Land, and be curious to Inform

themselves and make observations of the pleasant prospects, good

buildings, different produces and manufactures of each place, with the

variety of sports and recreations they are adapt to, would be a

souveraign remedy to cure or preserve ffrom these Epidemick diseases of

vapours, should I add Laziness?—it would also fform such an Idea of

England, add much to its Glory and Esteem in our minds and cure the evil

Itch of overvalueing fforeign parts; at least ffurnish them with an

Equivalent to entertain strangers when amongst us, Or jnform them when

abroad of their native Country, which has been often a Reproach to the

English, ignorance and being strangers to themselves. Nay the Ladies

might have matter not unworthy their observation, soe subject for

conversation, within their own compass in each county to which they

relate, and thence studdy now to be serviceable to their neighbours

especially the poor among whome they dwell, which would spare them the

uneasye thoughts how to pass away tedious dayes, and tyme would not be a

burthen when not at a card or dice table, and the ffashions and manners

of fforeign parts less minded or desired. But much more requisite is it

for Gentlemen in g^l service of their country at home or abroad, in town

or country, Especially those that serve in parliament to know and jnform

themselves y^e nature of Land, y^e Genius of the Inhabitants, so as to

promote and improve Manufacture and trade suitable to each and encourage

all projects tending thereto, putting in practice all Laws made for each

particular good, maintaining their priviledges, procuring more as

requisite; but to their shame it must be own’d many if not most are

Jgnorant of anything but the name of the place for which they serve in

parliament; how then can they speake for or promote their good or

Redress their Grievances? But now I may be justly blamed to pretend to

give acc: of our Constitution, Customs, Laws, Lect, matters farre above

my Reach or capacity, but herein I have described what have come within

my knowledge either by view and reading, or relation from others which

according to my conception have faithfully Rehearsed, but where I have

mistaken in any form or subject matter I easily submitt to a correction

and will enter such Erratas in a supplement annext to y^e Book of some

particulars since remark’d; and shall conclude with a hearty wish and

recommendation to all, but Especially my own Sex, the studdy of those

things which tends to Improve the mind and makes our Lives pleasant and

comfortable as well as proffitable in all the Stages and Stations of our

Lives, and render suffering and age supportable and Death less

fformidable and a future State more happy.

CELIA FIENNES.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

THE DIARY

OF

_CELIA FIENNES_

-------

_THE ACCOUNT OFF_

severall Journeys into severall parts of England with many Remarkes;

some w^{th} my mother from Newtontony Wiltshire which is all on the

downs a fine Champion Country pleasant for all sports, Rideing, Hunting,

Courseing, Setting and shooteing. From Newtontony I went to Sarum 8

miles which is a Citty and Bishop’s Seat, pretty Large town Streetes

broad but through y^e midst of them runs a little rivulet of water which

makes y^e Streetes not so clean or so easye to pass in, they have stepps

to Cross it and many open places for horses and Carriages to Cross

itt—itt takes off Much from the beauty of y^e streetes—the Cause of it

was from the burning of the old town called Salsebury which was on a

hill about a mile off this and it was so drye and farre from springs

that it was destroyed by fire and only the ruines of the Castle is to be

seen like a high wall with fortifications: this town now Stands low by

the water by a great River, the houses are old Mostly timber Buildings,

there is a large Market House with the town hall over it and a prison

Just by—there is also a large Cross in another place and house over it

for a Constant Market for fruite, fowle, Butter and Cheese and a fish

Market; the town is well served with all provissions; there is good

buildings in that part they call the Close, both New built and y^e old

good houses belonging to the doctors of the Church. Y^e Dean has a very

good house and Gardens, so is the Bishop’s Palace at y^e end of a Row of

trees—the roomes are lofty and Stately: all these houses are round y^e

Cathedrall which is esteemed the finest in England in all respects, it

only lyes low in a watry meadow so y^t the foundations is in the water,

made of ffaggots and timber, yet notwithstanding its want of a Riseing

ground to stand on y^e steeple is seen many miles off, the spire being

so high it appeares to us below as sharpe as a Dagger, Yet is in the

Compass on the top as bigg as a Cart wheele; its all stone and Carved

finely with spires and Arches, there are severall doores into y^e

Church, in the body of it stands the pulpet and seates on each side;

there are two large Isle’s runnes up on either side; the font stands

below opposite to the quire y^t enters w^{th} 2 or 3 steps assent from a

large Cross Isle that leades to the Cloysters, in which is y^e Chapter

house which is very large and supported only by one small stone Pillar

in y^e middle, painted round the walls with figures Carved y^e whole

accō: of the book of Genesis, the Windows are painted very finely—Much

of the History of the Bible. There is as many little Chappels in the

Church as months in a yeare, as many doores as weekes, as many Marble

pillars as dayes, as many windows as houres, as many partitions in the

windows as minutes in the year. The roofe of the Church is very lofty

and exactly neate in all things though not so large as some other

Cathedralls—the top of the Qoire is exactly painted and it lookes as

fresh as if but new done though of 300 yeares standing—there is a very

good organ and a deske for the reader raised so high even with the organ

for y^e advantage of the voice to be heard, yet y^e Church is so lofty

y^t y^e Eccos drowns y^e Intelligableness of the voice. The Comunion

table, hangings and y^e booses are all of crimson velvet with gold

fringe, 2 large Candlestickes gilt w^{th} great white tapers in them, a

large gilt bason to receive y^e offerings in—there is many good

monuments there, also there are ye Statues of the 3 bishops that built

the Church cut in stone—there are two large fine monuments above y^e

Rest—one all free stone for the lord George, his Effiges and ladyes att

length on a bed in their Robes and ruffs on pillows, and y^e four

pillars are twisted, and over it Angels, figures of birds, beasts,

flowers and leaves very fine, there sits Justice w^{th} y^e ballance in

her hand, one scale laying over y^e other twisted lookes very natural

and well, with y^e wreathed work all in free stone with their Armes cut

about in Escutheons all about it; the other is a monument for the Duke

of Summerset all in marble, a large bed his Effigee in garment and ruff

all in Coullours, his lady the same only she is laid one step above him

because she was Daughter to the Dowager of ffrance and sister to Henry

y^e 7^{th} of England by her second husband Charles brandon Duke of

Suffolk.

There is y^e Effiges of their 2 sonnes, Lord Beachom at their head and

Lord Seymour at y^e feete in Armour on their Knees, and severall

Daughters on their knees at y^e bottom and 12 pillars of Irish gray

marble. The Armes is cutt finely in Escutcheons &c. and in figures with

y^e supporters and severall sorts of beasts carved in a piramide

fashion, and on y^e top the Duke’s Corronet—these 2 monum^{ts} are

railed in with Iron grates, there is the Effigee in stone off a doctor

that starved himself to death attempting to imitate our Saviour to fast

40 dayes—but at 31 dayes end he became sensible of his evil and would

have retrieved his life by eateing againe, but then by y^e Just judgment

of god could not swallow any thing down his throate;—there is a chaple

or burying place of Judge poppums that had two very wild sonnes and by 2

pictures of his sonnes, pictured one with death y^e other with a

skeleton and set in y^e room they were to come into by their father’s

order, it pleased God to bless as a meanes to reclaim them. Ye pictures

are still there; the windows of the Church but especially y^e Quire are

very finely painted and large of y^e history of y^e bible—the tower ffor

y^e bells are in y^e yard at some distance from the Church—there are 6

Churches in the town and subburbs and y^e County Goal at y^e end of the

town called ffisherton, just by the great river that runnes to

Christ-Church in Salsebury. They keep the quarter session once in y^e

yeare the oth^r tymes are kept at Malbrough about 24 mile off and at y^e

Devises about y^e same distance w^{ch} is a very neate little town with

a very good market house and town hall sett on stone pillars; it is a

bourrough and a very rich tradeing place ffor the Clothing trade, the

fourth place y^e session is kept is Warminster about y^e same

distance—its a pretty little town a good Market for corn and there is

the Mindiffe Coale which is allmost as good as the sea Coale from

New-Castle that is dugg out of the hills all about;—But y^e Assizes is

allwayes kept at Salsebury and is a Major town though Wilton about 2

mile off is y^e County town and y^e Knights of y^e shire are chosen

there, though its now but as a little village as it were, and only

supported by the Earle of Pembrooke which lives there and has a very

ffine house with large Courts one within another. At y^e Entrance there

is a lofty Hall with good Pictures, 3 or 4 dineing roomes and drawing

roomes of State with very good bed Chambers and well furnished velvet

damaske and tissue, one Gallery and y^e dineing roome was all wanscoated

with pictures of y^e family—there is a drawing roome and Anti roome, y^e

wanscoate is painted with y^e whole History of the Acadia romance made

by S^r Philip Sidney, brother to the then Countess of Pembrooke and

Composed by him in y^e ffine woods above y^e house.

Another room is painted w^{th} all sorts of sports, Hunting, Hawking

&c.—they are all finely painted on the Ceiling and very lofty. there is

one dineing roome y^t the Chimney is just under a window and the

Tunnells runnes upon each side. there is one Chamber, the chimney stands

Just by the window opposite to Salsebury, and on the black Marble

Chimney piece soe finely polished you may see all the Cathedrall as in a

Glass; I have seen it plaine. There are very fine Marble Chimney pieces

in most of y^e roomes, and marble windows. The Gardens are very fine

with many gravel walkes with grass squaires set with fine brass and

stone statues—fish ponds and basons with ffigures in y^e middle spouting

out water—dwarfe trees of all sorts and a fine flower garden—much wall

fruite. Y^e river runns through y^e garden that easeily conveys by pipes

water to all Parts.

A Grottoe is att y^e end of the garden just y^e middle off y^e house—its

garnished with many fine ffigures of y^e Goddesses, and about 2 yards

off the doore is severall pipes in a line that with a sluce spoutts

water up to wett the strangers—in the middle roome is a round table and

a large Pipe in the midst, on which they put a Crown or Gun or a branch,

and so y^t spouts the water through y^e Carvings and poynts all round

y^e roome at y^e Artists pleasure to wet y^e Company—there are figures

at Each corner of y^e roome that Can weep water on the beholders and by

a straight pipe on y^e table they force up y^e water into y^e hollow

carving of y^e rooff like a Crown or Coronet to appearance but is hollow

within to retaine y^e water fforced into it in great quantetyes y^t

disperses in y^e hollow Cavity over y^e roome and descends in a Shower

of raine all about y^e roome—on each side is two little roomes which by

the turning their wires y^e water runnes in y^e rockes—you see and hear

it and also it is so contrived in one room y^t it makes y^e melody of

Nightingerlls and all sorts of birds w^{ch} engages y^e Curiosity of y^e

Strangers to go in to see, but at y^e Entrance off each room is a line

of pipes that appear not till by a Sluce moved—it washes y^e spectators

designed for diversion.

Y^e Grottoe is leaded on y^e top where are fish ponds, and just without

y^e grottoe is a wooden bridge over y^e river. Y^e barristers are set

out w^{th} Lyons set thick on Either Side w^{th} their mouths open, and

by a sluce spout out water each to other in a perfect arch y^e length of

y^e bridge. There are fine woods beyond y^e house and a large parke

walled in. From thence I went to Blandford in Dorsetshire 18 miles

through a haire waring and a forest of y^e Kings.

Blandford is a pretty neate Country town. Thence to Merly by Wimborn

over a great river Called the Stoure and a large Arched bridge to a

Relations house, S^r William Constantines house—thence to Poole a little

seaport town 4 miles off where was a very good Minister in y^e publick

Church—M^r Hardy.

From thence we went by boate to a little Isle Called brownsea 3 or 4

leagues off where there is much Copperice made, the stones being found

about y^e Isle in y^e shore in great quantetyes. there is only one house

there w^{ch} is the Governours, besides little fishermen’s houses; they

being all taken up about y^e Copperice workes; they gather y^e Stones

and place them on ground raised like y^e beds in gardens, rows one above

the other and are all Shelving, so y^t y^e raine disolves y^e Stones and

it draines down into trenches and pipes made to receive and Convey it to

y^e house, y^{ch} is fitted with Iron panns four square and of a pretty

depth at least 12 yards over. They place Iron spikes in y^e panns full

of branches and so as y^e Liquor boyles to a candy it hangs on those

branches; I saw some taken up—it look’d like a vast bunch of grapes. Y^e

Coullour of y^e Copperace not being much differing it lookes cleare like

Suger-Candy—so when y^e water is boyled to a Candy they take it out and

replenish the panns with more liquor. I do not remember they added

anything to it only y^e Stones of Copperice disolved by y^e raine into

liquor as I mention’d at first—there are great furnaces under, y^t

Keepes all the panns boyling—it was a large room or building with

Severall of these large panns: they do add old Iron and nailes to y^e

Copperass Stones. This is a noted place for lobsters and Crabs and

shrimps. I there eate some very good. From Merly we went to y^e Isle of

Purbeck. At Warrum we passed over a bridge where y^e sea flowed in, and

Came by y^e ruines of Corffe Castle which stands on a hill, yet

surrounded by much higher hills y^t might easily command it, and so in

y^e Civil warrs was batter’d down with Granadeers—thence you rise a

great ascent of hills, called the Linch or rather y^e ridge, being so

for 3 or 4 miles, rideing to Quare, which was 16 miles ffrom Merly to a

relations house—Cos’n Colliers.

From this ridge you see all y^e Island over, which lookes very

fruitfull, good lands, Meadows, woods and jnclosures—there are many

quarys in these hills of y^t w^{ch} is called the free stone from hence

they digg it—the shores are very Rocky all about y^e Island. We went 3

miles off to Sonidge a sea faire place not very big—there is a flatt

sand by y^e sea a little way: they take up stones by y^e shores y^t are

so oyly, as y^e poor burn it for ffire, and its so light a ffire it

Serves for Candle too, but it has a strong offensive smell. At a place 4

mile off called Sea Cume the Rockes are so Craggy and y^e Creekes of

land so many y^t y^e sea is very turbulent—I pick’d shells and it being

a spring tide I saw y^e sea beat upon y^e Rockes at least 20 yards with

Such a ffoame or ffroth—and at another place the rockes had so large a

Cavity and Hollow y^t when y^e Sea flowed in, it runne almost round and

Sounded like some hall or high arch. In this Island are severall pretty

good houses though not very large. Att Kingston, S^r William Muese has a

pretty house, and att Income M^r Coliffords—Doonshay, M^r Dollings and 7

mile off Quare. Att Finnum, lady Larences, there is a pretty large house

but very old timber built: there I eate y^e best Lobsters and Crabs,

being boyled in y^e Sea water and scarce Cold—very large and Sweet. Most

of the houses in y^e Island are built of stone—this is Just by the great

Cliffts w^{ch} are a vast height from y^e sea—here is plenty of

provision of all sorts especially of fish. ffrom Finnum we ascend a high

hill of a great length till you are out of y^e Island which does hardly

appeare to be now an Isle, the tide having left it on this side that you

passe only a little Brooke. There is another Castle called Brindon, but

y^t lyes low and appears not much—thence we came to Piddle 6 or 7 miles

off where was a relation—Mr Oxenbridg; an old house w^{ch} formerly was

an abby—thence to Dorchester town 5 miles—it stands on y^e side of a

Hill the river runnes below it—the town lookes Compact and the streetes

are very neately pitch’d and of a good breadth—The Market-place is

spaceious—The Church very handsome and full of galleries.

Thence we went to Burport about 8 miles—The wayes are stony and very

narrow—the town has a steep hill to descend through the whole

place—thence to Woolfe 4 miles to a relation—Mr Newbery a man of many

whymseys—would keep no women servants—had all washing, Ironing dairy

and all performed by men—his house look’s like a little village when

you Come into y^e Yard—so many little buildings apart from each

other—one for a stillitory—another for out houses and offices, another

long building for Silk wormes, and y^e dwelling house is but mean and

spoyl’d by his ffancy of makeing a hall up 3 storyes high and so lofty

nothing suiteable to it. He had good gardens and orchards much good

ffruite, but all in a most rude Confused manner. Thence we went to

Colway neare Lime in Somersetshire about 8 miles to a relations house

Mr Hendly’s—from thence it is 2 miles to Lime a seaport place open to

the main ocean, and so high and bleake Sea, that to secure the Harbour

for shipps they have been at a great Charge to build a Mold from the

town with stone like a halfe Moon, w^{ch} they call the Cobb; its

raised with a high wall and this runns into y^e Sea a good Compass

that y^e Shipps rides safely within it, when the tide is out we may

see the foundations of some part of it—that is the tyme they looke

over it to see any breach and repaire it immediately, else y^e tide

come with so much violence would soone beate it down—there is some

part of it low and only is to joyne y^e rest to the land, and at high

water is all Cover’d of such a depth of water that shipps may pass

over it to enter the Cobb or halfe moone, which is difficult for

fforeigners to attempt, being ignorant, though its better than goeing

round the other way for those that know and do observe the tide—the

spring tides and any Storme does some tymes beate up and wash over the

walls of the forte or castle into the Court and so runns into the

town, though at other tymes when its’ the ordinary tide and calme sea

it is at least 300 yards from the banke on which the high wall is

built—In most parts of somersetshire it is very fruitfull for

Orchards, plenty of apples and peares, but they are not Curious in the

Planting the best sort of fruite which is a great pitty, being so

soone produced and such quantetyes, they are likewise as Careless when

they make Cider—they press all sorts of Apples together, else they

might have as good sider as in any other parts, even as good as the

Herrifordshire—they make great quantetyes of Cider, their presses are

very large, so as I have seen a Cheese as they call them which yeilded

2 hoddsheads—they pound their apples, then lay fresh straw on the

press, and on that a good lay off Pulp of the apples, then turne in

the ends of the straw over it all round and lay fresh straw, then more

apples up to the top. Just by Lime you Cross a little brooke into

Devonshire which is much like Somersetshire—fruitfull Country’s for

Corn, graseing, much for inclosures that makes the wayes very narrow,

so as in some places a Coach and Waggons Cannot pass—they are forced

to Carry their Corn and Carriages on horses’ backes with frames of

wood like pannyers on either side y^e horse, so load it high and tye

it w^{th} Cords—this they do altogether the farther Westward they goe

for y^e wayes grow narrower and narrower on to y^e lands end. They

shewed me the Lizard point from Lime, it was a good distance—Y^e land

grows narrower in a compass round, as it were round the sea. From lime

the wayes are also difficult by reason of the very steep hill up and

down, and that so successively as little or no plaine even ground, and

full of large smooth pebbles that make the strange horses slip and

uneasye to go—the horses of the Country are accustomed to it and

travell well in the rodes—in y^e opener wayes they use a sort of waine

or carriage made narrower than our Southern Waggon, but longer and so

load them high—from Lime to Burport is 12 miles and so to Dorchester;

thence to Blandford we pass over Woodbery hill eminent for a great

Faire that is kept there of all things: the road passed by

Cherbery—the foot of the hill on the Slope stands a pretty Seate of Mr

Earles my relation—the house is new built on y^e brow of y^e hill

whence you have large prospects of 20 mile round—you may see

Shaftesbury thence 16 mile off—there is a good wood behind the house,

good gardens wall’d with plenty of fruit, good fish and decoy pounds.

There is a very good Hall at the entrance leads you to a large parlour

and drawing room on y^e right hand that opens to the gardens—a very

good little parlour on the left with servants room, and another

parlour for smoakeing, all well wanscoated and painted and the offices

convenient—the Chambers are good and lofty and sizeable—good

ffurniture in the best 2 Chambers, in an angle the staires leads up

halfe way into y^e middle of the house and so divides in four parts

and runnes to each angle.

Thence 6 miles to Blandford, thence 18 to Salsebury and 8 mile to

Newtontony which stands in y^e midst of y^e downs 8 mile from Andover a

market town in Hampshire and y^e roade to London. It lyes 15 mile from

Winchester—it is three mile from Amesbury and 2 mile more to Stoneage

that stands on Salsebury plaine—eminent for many battles being faught

there—this Stoneage is reckon’d one of the wonders of England how such

prodigeous stone should be brought there, as no such Stone is seen in

y^e Country nearer than 20 mile. They are placed on the side of a hill

in a rude jregullar form—two stones stands up and one laid on their tops

with morteses into each other and thus are severall in a round like a

wall with spaces between, but some are fallen down, so spoyle the order

or breach in the temple, as some think it was in the heathen tymes;

others thinke it the Trophy of some victory wone by one Ambrosious, and

thence the town by it has its name of Amesbury. There is severall rows

of lesser stones within the others set up in the same forme of 2 upright

and one lies on the top like a gateway. How they were brought thither or

whether they are a made stone is not resolved—they are very hard yet I

have seen some of them scraped—the weather seemes not to penetrate them.

To increase the wonder of the story is that none Can Count them twice

alike—they stand confused and some single stones at a distance but I

have told them often, and bring their number to 91. This Country is most

Champion and open, pleasant for recreations—its husbandry is mostly Corn

and sheep, the Downs though short grass y^e feed is sweet, producing the

finest wooll and sweet meat though but small.

The little towns or villages lies in the valleys and runs along in the

bottom and are called Bourns having water running in most of them. From

Stonidge I went to Evell in Somersetshire, thence to Meer a little town

about 15 mile; by the town is a vast high hill called the Castle of

Meer—its now all grass over and so steepe up that the ascent is by

footsteps cut in the side of the hill. I was on the top where some had

been digging and was come to a space that was Arched and the walls

plaistred and washed white and smooth—it was but a little roome, I tooke

a piece of its walls and plaister. That shews there may be Cells or

vaults in the hill—from thence to Wincauton 7 miles which is on a steep

hill and very stoney—you go through the town all the way down as it were

a steep precipice, all Rocks—thence to Castle Cary 3 or 4 miles—its

generally a good fruitfull Country, much on jnclosures as is most of

Summersetshire.

Thence to Alford 2 miles where was a minerall water which Company

resorts to for drinking—formerly it has been more frequented than of

late—many now send for them severall miles and have Beer brewed of

them—there being no good accomodation for people of fashion, the Country

people being a Clownish rude people. Y^e waters are mostly from Alom—its

a Cleare little well and a quick spring—the bottom of the well has a

sort of Blewish Clay or Marle, its a quick purger, good for all sharpe

Humers or Obstruction. In three mile of this place is Queen Camell

famous for a fine ring of bells and for the fine sort of brown thread

called Nuns thread—as we returned from thence we came by Bruton a very

neate stone built town—from it we ascend a very high steep hill all in a

narrow Lane cut out of the rocks on which grow trees thick, their Roots

runns amongst the rocks, and in many places fine Clean springs buble

out, and run a long out of the rocks, it smells Just like the sea. we

were full an hour passing that hill though with four horses and a

Chariot. My sister self and Maid: thence to Willding which is a place of

much water, so to Newtontony in all 30 miles.

Another Journey to the Bath, from Newtontony to Warminster 18 miles a

good road town and good way; thence to Breackly 5 mile a Deep Clay way,

we passed over one Common of some miles Length on a narrow Causy that a

Coach can scarce pass, all pitched with slatts and stones—our Coach was

once wedged in y^e wheele in the stones that severall men were forced to

lift us out; its made only for Packhorses which is the way of Carriage

in those parts. Y^e Common is so Moorish their feete and wheeles would

sinke in, so no going there—thence to Philip Norton 3 miles a very neate

stone built village. Thence you pass a good way between 2 stone walls to

the bath, 5 mile down a very steep hill and stony, a mile from the town

scarce any passing and there descends a little Current of water

continually from the rocks. The wayes to the bath are all difficult, the

town lyes Low in a bottom and its steep ascents all wayes out of the

town. The houses are indifferent, the streetes of a good size well

pitched. There are severall good houses built for Lodgings that are new

and adorned, and good furniture, the baths in my opinion makes the town

unpleasant, the aire so low, encompassed with high hills and woods.

There is 5 baths the hot bath the most hot springs—its but small and

built all round, which makes it y^e hotter—out of it runns the water

into a bath called the Le pours.

The third bath is called the Cross bath w^{ch} is some thing bigger then

the former and not so hot; the Cross in the middle has seates round it

for y^e Gentlemen to sitt, and round the walls are Arches w^{th} seates

for the Ladyes, all stone and the seate is stone and if you thinke the

seate is too Low they raise it with a Coushon as they call it, another

Stone, but indeed the water bears you up that y^e seate seemes as easy

as a down Coushon. Before the Arch the Ladyes use to have a laced toilet

hung up on the top of the Arch and so to shelter their heads even to the

water if they please. You Generally sit up to the Neck in water, this

Cross bath is much the Coolest and is used mostly in y^e heate of

summer; there are Gallery’s round y^e top that y^e Company that does not

Bathe that day walkes in and lookes over into y^e bath on their

acquaintance and company—there are such a number of Guides to each bath

of women to waite on y^e ladyes, and of men to waite on the Gentlemen,

and they keepe their due distance. There is a serjeant belonging to y^e

baths that all the bathing tyme walkes in galleryes and takes notice

order is observed and punishes y^e rude, and most people of fashion

sends to him when they begin to bathe, then he takes particular Care of

them and Complements you every morning w^{ch} deserves its reward at y^e

end of the Season. When you would walk about y^e bath I use to have a

woman guide or two to Lead me for the water is so strong it will quickly

tumble you down, and then you have 2 of the men guides goes at a

distance about y^e bath to Cleare y^e way. At y^e sides of the Arches

are rings that you may hold by and so walke a little way, but y^e

springs bubbles up so fast and so strong and are so hot up against ye

bottoms of ones feete, Especially in that they Call y^e Kitching in the

bath, which is a great Cross with seates in y^e middle and many hot

springs riseth there. The Kings bath is very large, as large as the rest

put together, in it is the hot pumpe that persons are pumpt at for

Lameness or on their heads for palsyes. I saw one pumpt, they put on a

broad brim’d hatt w^{th} the Crown Cut out so as y^e brims Cast off y^e

water from y^e face; they are pumpt in y^e bath, one of y^e men Guides

pumps—they have two pence I thinke for 100 pumps. The water is scallding

hot out of the pump, the armes or Legs are more easyly pumped. The

Ladyes goes into the bath with Garments made of a fine yellow canvas,

which is stiff and made large with great sleeves like a parsons gown;

the water fills it up so that its borne off that your shape is not seen,

it does not cling close as other linning, which Lookes sadly in the

poorer sort that go in their own linning. The Gentlemen have drawers and

wastcoates of the same sort of canvas, this is the best linning, for the

bath water will Change any other yellow. When you go out of the bath you

go within a doore that leads to Steps which you ascend by degrees that

are in the water, then the doore is shut which shutts down into the

water a good way, so you are in a private place where you still ascend

severall more steps and let your Canvass drop of by degrees into the

water, which your women guides take off, and the meane tyme your maides

flings a garment of flannell made like a Nightgown w^{th} great sleeves

over your head, and y^e guides take y^e taile and so pulls it on you

Just as you rise y^e steps, and y^e other garment drops off so you are

wrapped up in y^e flannell and your nightgown on y^e top, and your

slippers and so you are set in Chaire which is brought into y^e roome

w^{ch} are called slips, and there are Chimney’s in them, you may have

fires. These are in severall parts of the sides of y^e bath for y^e

Conveniency of persons going in and out of y^e bath decently, and at y^e

top of y^e staires stands a woman y^t Layes a woollen Cloth for you to

set your bare foot, and also to give you attendance. Y^e Chaires you go

in are a low seate and w^{th} frames round and over y^r head and all

cover’d inside and out w^{th} red bayes and a Curtaine drawn before of

y^e same w^{ch} makes it Close and warme; then a Couple of men w^{th}

staves takes and Carryes you to your lodging and sets you at y^r bedside

where you go to bed and lye and sweate some tyme as you please. Y^r own

maides and y^e maides of the house gets your fire and waites on you till

you rise to get out of your sweate. All the baths has the same

attendance, the queens bath is bigger then y^e other three but not and

neare so big as y^e Kings, which do run into each other and is only

parted by a wall and at one place a great arch where they run into each

other. Y^e queens bath is a degree hotter than y^e Cross bath and y^e

Kings bath much hotter, these have all gallery’s round and the pump is

in one of these galleryes at y^e Kings bath which y^e Company drinks of,

its very hot and tastes like y^e water y^t boyles Eggs, has such a

smell, but y^e nearer y^e pumpe you drinke it, y^e hotter and less

offencive and more spiriteous. The baths are all Emptyed as soone as the

Company goes out, which is about 10 or 11 of y^e Clock in the morning;

then by sluces they empty at once y^e bath so it fills againe. I have

seen all y^e springs bubble up as thicke out of y^e ground when the

baths have been empty. Y^e bottom is gravell. So they will be full for

y^e evening if Company would go in againe, if so they empty them againe

at Night and they are filled against y^e morning and there will be such

a white scum on the bath w^{ch} y^e guides goes and scimms off Cleane

before any Company goes in; if they go in while this scum is on it gives

them the bath mantle as they call it, makes them breake out into heate

and pimples; y^e like will be on them if they go into y^e bath before

they have purged, especially in y^e hotter bath. Y^e places for

divertion about y^e bath is either y^e walkes in that they call y^e

Kings Mead which is a pleasant green meaddow, where are walkes round and

Cross it, no place for Coaches, and indeed there is little use of a

Coach only to bring and Carry y^e Company from y^e bath for y^e wayes

are not proper for Coaches.

Y^e town and all its accomodations is adapted to y^e batheing and

drinking of the waters and to nothing else, the streetes are well

pitched and Cleane kept and there are Chaires as in London to Carry y^e

better sort of people in visits, or if sick or infirme and is only in

the town, for its so Encompassed with high hills few care to take the

aire on them. There is also pleasant walkes in y^e Cathedrall in the

Cloysters and y^t leades to y^e discription of the Coronation in this

place at y^e bath y^e 23^d April w^{ch} I recieved y^e relation off from

a spectatrix it being y^e day queen ann was Crowned, and is never

performed unless when a queen is the Chiefe as Queen Elizabeth &c., her

Sister our late Majesty’s King William and Queen Mary because the queen

was Joyn’d in the throne as principle, they representing y^e Amazons

consisting of the young Maids. The Companyes of the town being assembled

at M^r Mayors house begin to proceed with their officers masters and

wardens and each Company with their flag—After marched in a troupe y^e

Maides of the suburbs each with their proper officers of themselves, as

Capt^n Ensigne and lieutenant w^{th} plummes of feathers. Just before

y^e capt^n went her guard which was 6 young men drest in their holland

shirts, with garters, and Ribons in their hatts, and their swords drawn

in their hands, then the capt^n in her short wastecoate with gold lace,

and their peticoates silke y^t were with furbellows ode above anoth^{er}

with Ribons, w^{th} a trunchant in their hand w^{th} an inscription, God

save queen Ann. Just behinde their Captaines went two Maides with two

scepters gilt, next them two more y^t bore the crown between them w^{ch}

was gilt, also their Ensigne. Their flag w^{ch} holds the same

inscription God save queen Ann was guarded by two young Men drest as y^e

others in their holland shirts: then the troupe followed in order in

same dress as their officers with Crowns on their heads of Guilded

Lauwrell, in Number about 100; next came y^e Citty Maides w^{th} their

Majoress Generall with their plummes of feather with a wreath of Gilded

Lawrell like a Crown, and on y^e top w^{th} all sorts of pretious stones

y^e Jewellers shops Could supply them w^{th} and were guarded w^{th}

young men as y^e others; behind y^e Majoress followed six all in white

with a green Cross swathe with this inscription in white God save queen

Ann each with their Trunchant in their hands as y^e former, and two

carrying 2 scepters gilt, and after them two more y^e Crown between

them, w^{ch} was very rich in pearles; then two more carryed y^e queens

Armes between them, their dress was just as y^e first were only much

richer and finer and all of them gather’d up y^e upper peticoate in

little scallops just to shew their under peticoates w^{ch} were white.

Y^e troupe of y^e amazans in order w^{th} their bows and arrows w^{th}

Crowns of Gilded Lawrel, their officers had plumes of feathers and their

Serjeants with their halberts, their number was also about 100.

Next after followed all y^e young men of y^e town form’d into a Company

of Granadeers w^{th} their proper officers w^{ch} had laced hatts and

plumes of feathers; each soldier had a red cap w^{th} Cyphers and a

Crown gilt w^{th} gold and furbelowed with blew round their head; their

hair was tyed back with scarlet ribon, they had scarlet garters and

scarlet slings for their gunns; drest all in their holland shirts and

white stockings and had a hanger by their sides. their number was about

30. Next followed four couple of Maurice dancers with their pranceing

horses, in holland shirts with laced hatt riboned, and Cross swashes and

garters w^{th} bells, w^{th} their two antiques drest in their

formalityes, w^{th} hankershiefs in their hands danceing all y^e way.

Next walked y^e Clergy, then next followed M^r Major with two pages

attending him, followed by the Corporation aldermen all in their scarlet

gowns, and the common Councill in their gowns. Next followed in y^e

reare all y^e marryed men formed into a Company of Artilery, their hatts

Laced, with plumes of feathers all in their own Cloths:

Ye Soldiers y^e Same w^{th} Swords and gunns w^{th} two Blunderbusses;

every Company both of men and women was attended by drums and all sort

of musick both wind and stringed instruments.

Thus they repaired to y^e Cathedrall, Y^e granadeers salutes them Just

as they enter the Abby with a volly of shott, and there they have a

sermon and as they come out of the Cathedrall y^e Company of artillery

salutes them againe with another volly, so in the same order they return

to their Guild Hall where is a sumptuous feast w^{th} Musick and

danceing w^{ch} Ends y^e solemnity w^{th} bonfires as is usual.

I now proceed to describe the rest of the town. there are green walkes

very pleasant and in many places, and out of the Cathedrall you walk

into y^e priory which has good walkes of rows of trees, which is

pleasant—there are y^e deans prebends and doctors houses which stand in

y^t green which is pleasant, by y^e Church called the Abby, w^{ch} is

lofty and spacious and much Company walke there especially in wet

weather. Y^e Quire is neat but nothing extraordinary—in that Kings mead

there are severall little Cake-houses where you have fruit lulibubs and

sumes Liquours to entertaine y^e Company that walke there.

The markets are very good here of all sorts of provision flesh and ffish

especially when the season for y^e Company batheing and drinking lasts,

great plenty and pretty reasonable. The Chargeableness of the bath is

y^e Lodgings and fireing, the ffaggotts being very small, but they give

you very good attendance there.

Another Journey I went with my mother into Oxfordshire, by Barkshire to

Hungerford 16 mile, which is famous for Crawfish there being a good

river and great quantityes of y^t fish and large.

This is in Barkshire, thence to Lamborn w^{ch} is a woody Country 7

miles, thence to ffarington 7 mile a pretty large place but lyes very

watry, and so by Radcote 5 miles, w^{ch} is much y^e same deep Countryes

much on Clay; by ffarington is a fine house of S^r George Pratt’s Called

Coalsell. All y^e avenues to y^e house are fine walkes of rows of trees,

y^e garden lyes in a great descent below y^e house of many steps and

terresses and walkes one below another, a green walke with all sorts of

Dwarfe trees, fruit trees with standing apricot and flower trees,

abundance of garden roome and filled with all sorts of things improved

for pleasure and use. The house is new built with stone, most of y^e

offices are partly under ground—Kitchin, Pantry, buttlery and good

Cellers and round a Court is all y^e other offices and out houses; this

is all even with y^e back yards. The Entrance of y^e house is an ascent

of severall steps into a hall so lofty the rooff is three storyes,

reaches to y^e floore of y^e gallery—all the walls are Cutt in hollows

where statues and Heads Carved ffinely are sett, Directly fore-right

Enters a large Dineing roome or great parlour, which has a door

thourough into the garden y^t gives a visto through y^e house: within

y^t is a drawing room, on y^e other side another roome of the same size,

and backward is a little parlour all with good ffurniture, tapistry,

Damaske, &c. There runs up a p^r of back Staires at each end of the

house quite to y^e top to the gallery which does make convenient all y^e

Chambers. The great Staires goes out of the hall on each side, spacious

and handsom staires runs up and meetes on the landing place, w^{ch} is a

passage that runs on both sides to each end of the house, but is made

private by two doores on each side: on the top of the staires you enter

in y^e midle into a dineing roome, within that a Chamber on each side

with two Closets to each bigg Enough for a little bed, with Chimney’s

convenient for a servant and for dressing roomes, one of which has a

doore also out into that passage and soe to the back staires; this is

y^e same on y^e other end, and also two roomes on y^e other side, each

end of y^e hall which continues to run up even with the second story,

which are all good Chambers, and one more here because the great staires

goe but to y^e first story: they are all well and Genteel’ly furnisht,

damaskes Chamlet and wrought beds ffashionably made up. Over this runs a

gallery all through the house, and on each side severall garret roomes

for servants ffurnished very neate and Genteele, in y^e middle are

staires y^t Lead up to the Cupilow or large Lanthorn in the middle of

the leads. Y^e house being Leaded all over and the stone Chimney’s in

severall rows Comes up in them on each side y^e Cupilow, it shewes exact

and very uniform, as is y^e whole Building. This gives you a great

prospect of gardens, grounds and woods that appertaine to y^e Seate, as

well as a sight of the Country at a distance. There was few pictures in

the house only over doores and Chimney’s; the hall was paved with black

and whyte marble and had seates round the roome cut in arches on the

walls. From thence Oxfordshire we enter over the Vale of the White horse

w^{ch} takes its name from a Ridge of high hills on which is Cutt out

the shape off a horse in perfect proportions in broad wayes, and is seen

a great distance very plaine, the hills being on Chalke look’s white and

the great valley in the bottom is term’d the Manger; it extends a vast

way, a rich jnclosed Country, and we pass through some part of

Glocestershire at Norton where is another seat of my Brother

Say’s—thence to Broughton by Banbery which is 25 mile.

Broughton is an ancient Seate of y^e Lord viscount Say and Seale; its an

old house moted round, and a parke and Gardens, but are much left to

decay and ruine when my brother Came to it. He has two other houses in

two or three Miles, Shettford a little neate house and gardens, and

Newton, but that is mostly pulled down. From Broughton I went to see

Edgehill where was the ffamous Battle ffought in Cromwell’s tyme—its 10

mile off, the Ridge of hills runns a great length and so high that the

land beneath it appeares vastly distant, its a rich ground full of

inclosures and lookes finely, tho’ fformidable to look down on it and

turnes one’s head round—the wind allwayes blows w^{th} great violence

there because of the Steepeness of y^e hills. The top is a flatt full of

Barrows and hills that are markes of a Camp and battles.

About 2 mile from Broughton is a great old house much like Broughton;

its S^r Robert Dashwoods—most of the great houses there about are old

built. About three mile off at Adderbery w^{ch} is a pretty neate

vilage, there are two or three good houses one of S^r Thomas Cobbs and

Lady Rochesters looks neate and well with good gardens.