How often have I seen twenty or thirty brace of these delicious and
exceedingly nutritious fish exposed for sale in some provincial
market-place, and spoiling for want of purchasers, some neighbouring
baronet or esquire having been drawing his pits and preserves. But why
no purchasers? Simply because, although the spectators might nearly
beg them, the price being so low, few persons only would know what to
do with them, they not being “poor men’s fish;” and the sauces, &c.,
required to dress them would be too expensive; the operatives have
not seen pies made of them, like eels, so even the million as they
are termed do not enjoy them, and ten to one the beautiful fish are
lost; whilst if they were near Houndsditch or the Minories, amongst
the Israelites, they would not remain half an hour unsold even at
half-a-crown the brace, because they know how to prepare them, and
delicious indeed are the majority of their fish dishes. Take three
brace of these fish, scale them, cut off the tails and fins, split them
open at the back, take out all the garbage, gills and eyes, and wash
them quickly in salt and water; now wipe them dry, and have ready the
following mixture:
Fresh parsley, minced finely 2 tablespoonfuls
Thyme, in powder 2 tablespoonfuls
Marjorum, in powder 2 tablespoonfuls
Moist sugar ½ lb.
Table salt ¾ lb.
Make two sides of each fish and cut them across, again place these
pieces in alternate layers with the mixture in an oblong pot closely
covered up, and set them aside for forty-eight hours; then unpack the
fish and replace them in the same receptacle, having rubbed them well
and turned each piece over; so let remain twenty-four hours longer,
the thickest pieces lying nearest the bottom of the jar. Now unpack
again and wash the pieces separately in weak vinegar and water with a
trifle of saltpetre in it, and wiping, leave them between cloths while
you are preparing, by boiling the used herbs and liquor with half a
pint of vinegar and water for ten minutes, and skimming well, strain it
through a fine sieve and set it aside. Now take
Mace, bruised ½ oz.
Cloves, bruised 1 oz.
Cayenne pepper 1 teaspoonful
Twelve bay leaves, shred
Four laurel leaves, green
Of the strained liquor ½ pint
Boil these for fifteen minutes, skim thoroughly, strain through a fine
sieve and add port wine half a pint, return this to the saucepan,
simmer it covered close for twelve minutes, and let remain by the
fireside. Lay your pieces of fish in a pie dish that will just hold
them, the thickest near the bottom, and pour the liquor in the saucepan
over the fish, tie paper doubled over the dish and bake till done
moderately, which can always be ascertained by the fish leaving the
bone upon a knife being applied. Now pour off the liquor, take out the
fish and set it to drain all night, covered up; place the pieces in the
best adapted pots and fill up with olive oil, renewing on the third
day what had been absorbed by the fish, and tie bladder over. In this
and similar cases take care that the oil is sufficient in quantity to
cover the contents to the thickness of three quarters of an inch at
least. These will be remarkably fine eating in a month. You cannot
purchase such at the shops.