COCK-A-LEEKIE, OR LEEK SOUP.—Boil from four to six pounds of good
shin-beef, well broken and sliced, until the liquor is very good. Strain
it, and add a capon or large fowl, trussed as if for boiling. When it
boils (which should be gently), add half the quantity of leeks intended
to be used, well cleaned, and cut in inch lengths; skim carefully, and
in half an hour add the remaining part of the leeks, and a seasoning of
pepper and salt.
The great art in making this soup, consists in boiling down the first
portion of leeks so as to extract, together with the meat, all their
flavour; and having the soup as thick of leeks as possible. The coarse
green part of the leeks should be rejected.
Some persons thicken the soup with fine oatmeal; and when the flavour of
the leeks is not required to be too potent, a little spinach and parsley
are substituted for the second portion.
Sometimes the capon is served in the tureen, whole or divided, with the
cock-a-leekie.
CALF’S HEAD.—Wash the head clean with salt and water, put into a stewpan,
cover with water, add a faggot of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with
cloves, four or five blades of mace, and a tea-cupful of pearl-barley.
Stew until tender, and then add a stick of celery, previously cut small,
and stewed plainly until tender. Season with pepper and salt to taste,
place the head in the middle of the tureen, pour the soup over, and serve
hot.
Some persons cut the calf’s head into small pieces previous to serving up
the soup.
MACCARONI.—Boil a pound of good maccaroni in enough veal stock (see p.
253) to cover it, until quite tender, and put about half of it into a
small stewpan; and two quarts more stock to the portion in the large pan,
boil for an hour, and then rub through a tamis-cloth or fine sieve. When
it becomes thick, add boiled cream, and rub through the tamis again
until quite smooth; then add the liquid to the maccaroni that remains in
the small pan, and shake in half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese to the
whole; heat, but do not allow it to boil, then serve with a French roll
in the tureen.
FISH.
CARP, TO FRY.—These fish are not so good when done this way as stewed
(see p. 254); but when required to be thus cooked, they should be done
precisely the same as perch.
COD, TO CURE.—Split the fish down the back: clean well, and immerse in a
strong pickle for about ten days or a fortnight; then remove, rub well
with dry salt, and hang up to dry, having previously thrust a stick into
each, to keep the two sides of the fish apart. If desirable, smoke as
directed for herrings.
EELS, TO COLLAR.—Skin, gut, remove the back-bone, and cut off the heads
of as many eels as you want; then dip into a mixture of salt, common
pepper, cayenne, grated nutmeg, pounded cloves, lemon-peel grated, and
some finely rubbed sage. Roll up in fillets, tie with string as usual,
boil in salt and water, with an equal portion of vinegar, until tender,
and then remove; add some whole pepper to the pickle, which should be
placed in a deep dish, and when cold, plunge the eel fillets into it.
GUDGEON, TO FRY.—Proceed the same as directed for dace.
HAKE PIE.—Cut into cutlets as directed at page 249; then lay in a
pie-dish, and sprinkle with a seasoning composed of pepper, salt, and
cayenne; then bake the same as directed for eel pie (see p. 262).
LOBSTER SAUCE.—Break the shell of the lobster, extract the meat from the
claws and body, cut small; boil the shells in half a pint of water, with
a little ground allspice and scraped horse-radish, until all the strength
is extracted; strain the liquor into a stewpan; add the lobster, half a
pound of cream or thick melted butter, a tea-spoonful or two of anchovy
sauce, and a squeeze of lemon. If you have a hen lobster, remove the
coral and spawn, and pound it up fine in a mortar: mix this with a little
of the sauce, return it to the stewpan, stir well, and let the whole
simmer gently for about five minutes, but do not let it boil; season with
cayenne and salt while stewing.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS.—Put a dozen of bearded oysters, previously dipped in
bread crumbs, into a scallop shell. Mix pepper, salt, a little nutmeg,
butter, and bread crumbs well together, and put layers of this and
oysters alternately. Egg the last layer over, and brown in a Dutch oven.
TENCH, TO STEW BROWN.—See receipt given for carp.
POULTRY, GAME, ETC.
DUCKS, NOTTINGHAM FASHION.—Choose a pair of fine fat ducks, lard as
usual, and then half-roast them. Remove from before the fire, place in
a clean stewpan, and stew gently for half an hour with a pint of good
gravy; then add half a pint of oysters nicely bearded, a dozen roasted
and bruised chestnuts, a pint of red wine, and two small onions minced
fine; three or four sprigs of thyme, a blade of mace, six peppercorns,
the crumb of a French roll rubbed fine, and a pinch of cayenne pepper.
When well flavoured, remove, and serve hot. It is necessary to cover the
stewpan well during the time the ducks are cooking.
WOODCOCKS, TO RAGOUT.—Prepare and cook the same as snipes.
VEGETABLES.
CARDOONS FRIED AND BUTTERED.—Cut them about ten inches long, string, and
then tie them in bundles like asparagus, and cut them into dice; boil
like peas; add some butter, pepper, and salt, and serve hot.
CARDOONS À LA FROMAGE.—String, then cut them an inch long, place in
a saucepan, and stew in some port or red wine, enough to cover them,
until tender: then season with pepper and salt, and thicken with floured
butter; then pour into the dish; add the juice of an orange, and scrape
some Cheshire cheese all over it, then brown with a salamander, and serve
hot.
CELERY FRIED.—Take three heads of celery, cut off the green tops, remove
the outside stalks, wash clean and pare the roots clean; then have ready
four ounces of white wine, the yolks of two eggs beat fine, and a little
salt and nutmeg; mix all well together with flour, so as to form a good
batter; then dip each head into the batter, and fry a nice light brown in
lard. When done, lay in the dish, pour melted butter over them, and serve
hot.
TURNIP PIE.—Season some mutton chops with salt and pepper, reserving the
ends of the neck-bones to lay over the turnips, which must be cut into
small dice, and strewed over the steaks. Add two or three table-spoonfuls
of milk, and cover with a crust.
MEAT.
MUTTON HASHED.—Cut the remains of a cold leg or shoulder of mutton into
thin slices, whether fat or lean; flour and pepper well, and leave on the
dish. Boil the bones, well broken up, with a few onions minced well, add
some salt, a little mushroom ketchup and the hashed meat; warm over a
slow fire, but do not let it boil; then add port wine and currant jelly,
or omit, as you please. If the former, it will impart a venison flavour,
if the latter method is adopted it will be plain.
VEAL LARDED.—Remove the under bone of a neck of veal, and leave only a
part of the long bones on; then trim it neatly, lard, and roast it gently
with the caul over it. When nearly done, remove the caul, in order that
the meat may be just tinged a brown. Serve with mushroom, celery, or
other sauce. At another season, sorrel, asparagus, green pea, or lemon
sauces are correct, but at this period such cannot be obtained.
PASTRY.
AMERICAN BISCUITS.—Take a quarter of a pound of butter and mix with a
pound of flour; add a quarter of a pound of sugar to half a pint of new
milk, warm, and pour gradually into the butter paste. Make a solution of
about half a tea-spoonful of salt of tartar in half a tea-cupful of cold
water; add to the mixture, and work up the paste to a good consistence;
then roll it out, and cut with the top of a wine-glass. These cakes
should be baked in a quick oven as soon as possible after they are made.
BREAD-AND-BUTTER PUDDING.—Grease a dish well with butter, then sprinkle
in a good thick layer of currants, well washed and picked; add some brown
sugar, and cover with thin slices of light white bread until the dish is
filled by alternate layers of currants, sugar, and bread. Boil a pint of
new milk, add four well-beaten yolks of eggs, a little nutmeg and grated
lemon-peel; pour into the dish containing the bread, &c., and let it
stand for an hour, then bake in a moderate oven. A paste may be put round
the edge of the dish, but it is not necessary.
SOMERSETSHIRE SYLLABUB.—Put into a large china bowl a pint of port, the
same quantity of sherry, and sugar to taste; then milk the bowl full, and
after letting it stand for twenty minutes, cover well with clouted cream;
grate nutmeg over all, add pounded cinnamon, and strew thickly with
nonpareil comfits.
FOOD FOR DECEMBER.
MEAT.—Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doe-venison.
FISH.—Barbel, brill, turbot, carp, cockles, _cod_, crabs, dab, _dory_,
eels, gudgeon, gurnets, haddocks, _hake_, halibut, herrings, _ling_,
lobsters, mackerel, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, ruffe, salmon,
shrimps, _skate_, smelts, soles, sprats, sturgeon, _tench_, whitings.
POULTRY AND GAME.—Capons, chickens, dotterel, ducks, fowls, geese,
grouse, guinea-fowl, hares, larks, moor-game, partridges, pea-fowl,
pheasants, pigeons, rabbits, snipes, teal, turkeys, wheat-ears, widgeon,
wild ducks, woodcocks.
VEGETABLES.—Jerusalem artichokes, beets, borecole, white and purple
brocoli, cabbages, cardoons, carrots, celery, endive, herbs of all sorts,
leeks, lettuces, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, savoys, scorzonera,
skirrets, shalots, spinach, truffles, turnips, _forced_ asparagus.
FRUIT.—Almonds. _Apples_—Golden pippin, nonpareil, winter pearmain,
golden russet. Chestnuts; hazel-nuts; a few grapes; medlars; oranges.
_Pears_—Bergamot, Beurré d’Hiver, Colmar, Holland, St. Germains. Walnuts.
COOKERY FOR DECEMBER.
SOUPS.
BAKED.—Take a pound of any lean meat and cut into dice, place in an
earthen jar, or pot, that will hold five quarts of liquid. Slice, and add
to it, two onions, two carrots, two ounces of rice, washed and previously
soaked, a pint of whole or split peas, and some pepper and salt to taste;
cover all with a gallon of water, tie a cloth over the top of the jar, or
close the lid of the pot down very close, and bake. This is a cheap and
useful soup for poor people, and may be much improved by using the liquor
that salt beef, or, indeed, any meat has been boiled in, instead of water.
CHEAP—FOR THE POOR.—Soak a quart of split peas for a day in cold water,
and then put them into a boiler with two gallons and a half of water,
and two pounds of cold boiled potatoes, well bruised, a faggot of herbs,
salt, pepper, and two onions sliced. Cover it very close, and boil _very
gently_ for five hours, or until only two gallons of soup remain.
ANOTHER.—Take two pounds of shin of beef, a quarter of a pound of barley,
a halfpenny-worth of parsley, two onions sliced, salt and pepper to
taste, and having cut the meat into dice, and broken the bone, place in
a gallon pot and fill up with water; boil very gently for five hours.
Potatoes, celery tops, cabbage, or any vegetable left from the day before
may be added.
RICH GRAVY.—Take a pound of beef, the same quantity of veal and mutton,
cut into dice, and place in a boiler with two gallons of water, half a
carrot sliced, a faggot of sweet herbs, an onion sliced, an old fowl
beaten to pieces, the upper crust of a small loaf toasted very crisp,
four blades of mace, a little pepper, and four cloves; cover well, and
let it simmer on the side of the fire until reduced one-half, then strain
through a coarse sieve into a stewpan. Add half an ounce of truffles, two
heads of fine celery sliced small, four table-spoonfuls of finely sifted
raspings, the palate of an ox boiled tender and cut small, and two cocks’
combs; cover very close, and simmer gently over a slow fire for two
hours. Make some forcemeat balls, and place in the tureen, then pour the
soup over, and serve.
PLUM PORRIDGE.—Boil eight pounds of shin of beef for five hours in a
gallon of water, skimming carefully throughout, and finally straining off
the liquor; add two pounds of meat cut small. Soften the crumb of a penny
loaf in some of the liquor, beat it smooth, thicken the soup with it,
add half a pound of stoned raisins, the same quantity of stoned prunes,
a pound of well washed currants, and grated nutmeg, pepper, and mace to
taste, and boil until the fruit is soft, then serve.
FISH.
BRILL, TO FRY IN BATTER.—Cut off the fish from the bones, in cutlets of
about three inches or more; remove the skin from the dark side, but let
the pale side remain. Dip each cutlet into batter, and fry in plenty
of dripping. Garnish with fried parsley, and serve up with anchovy and
melted butter.
COD SOUNDS, BOILED.—Soak the sounds in warm water for half an hour, then
scrape and clean well. Boil in milk and water, and when tender, serve in
a napkin, with egg sauce.
COD SOUNDS RAGOUT.—Scald, clean, and rub the sounds well with salt; then
stew in some good highly-seasoned gravy, and when tender add a little
cream and floured butter to thicken; give a boil, and season with grated
lemon-peel, nutmeg, and a little allspice.
DORY, TO FRY.—Clean and dry the fish well, egg over, dip in bread crumbs,
and fry a light brown. Garnish with fried parsley, and serve with plain
melted butter.
HAKE, TO BAKE.—Dress the same as pike (see p. 281).
LING, TO BROIL.—Cut into convenient sized pieces after the fish is
cleaned, flour well, and set on a gridiron over a clear fire. Shake a
little pepper and salt over each piece while broiling, and when done, rub
in some butter before the fire, then serve with plain melted butter.
PLAICE, TO FRY.—Clean, cut into cutlets, but do not remove the skin, and
fry as previously directed for brill.
TENCH, TO STEW BROWN.—Dress the same as carp (pp. 254, 268).
TURBOT, TO PICKLE.—Prepare the same as directed for cold salmon (p. 277).
POULTRY.
FOWLS, FORCED.—Cut a large fowl down the back, remove the skin from the
whole of the body very carefully; cut the flesh from the bones, and chop
it up finely with half a pint of oysters, and an ounce of beef marrow,
then season with pepper and salt. Add sufficient cream to mix it well,
lay the meat on the bones, draw the skin over, and sew up the back. Lay
thin slices of bacon on the breast, tie them on in diamonds, and roast it
an hour by a moderate fire. Pour a good brown gravy sauce into the dish.
Remove the bacon from the fowl, and then place the fowl in the dish.
Garnish with oysters or mushrooms, and serve hot.
GUINEA-FOWL, TO ROAST.—Lard, prepare, and then dress the same as a
pheasant (see p. 291), and it will be most delicious.
VEGETABLES.
ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, TO RAGOUT.—Soak them in warm water two or three hours,
changing the water; then put them into a stewpan with some good gravy, a
table-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, or enough to flavour, a little salt,
and cayenne pepper. Boil, thicken with flour, place in a dish, and pour
the gravy sauce over, then serve hot.
SPINACH STEWED, AND EGGS.—Pick and wash the spinach very clean, put it
into the saucepan with a little salt, cover it close, shake the pan
often, and when tender and green, toss it into a sieve to drain, and
then lay it on the dish. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, break
as many eggs into cups as you wish to poach, drop them quietly into the
water, remove with an egg slice when done, lay them on the spinach, and
garnish the dish with slices of quartered lemon. Serve hot with melted
butter in a sauce-boat.
MEAT.
CALF’S HEAD PIE.—Stew a knuckle of veal till tender, with two onions, a
faggot of herbs, a blade of mace, and six peppercorns, in three pints
of water, and when done, set aside, with the bones in it, to simmer,
removing sufficient meat to form into balls. Half-boil a calf’s head,
and cut the flesh into square bits; put a layer of ham in slices at the
bottom of a dish, then some pieces of the head well seasoned with pepper
and salt, first fat and then lean, with balls, and hard eggs cut in half,
alternating until the dish is full, but not _too closely packed_. Put a
little water and gravy into the dish, cover with a tolerably thick crust,
and bake in a slow oven. When done, fill up with gravy, but do not cut
till it is quite cold. Some persons add oysters and mushrooms, and eat
the pie warmed instead of cold.
DURHAM PIE.—Take seven pounds of flour, a pound and a quarter of suet,
and two pounds of butter; form into a paste, mould it to fancy, so as
to make a handsome ornamental crust, and bake in a slow oven. Then take
a goose, a turkey, a grouse, a woodcock, a snipe, a pheasant, part of a
hare; a partridge, a pound and a half of bullock’s tongue, and cut into
small pieces; stew gently, and then place in the centre of the crust,
with the gravy, and some grated ham or beef; season to taste, and bake in
a slow oven. Of course the top is covered in with paste, ornamented with
the feet of the birds as a central crown, and foliage, &c., around them.
PRACTICAL HOUSEWIFE’S CHRISTMAS HAM.—Soak the ham, be the weight whatever
it may, half the usual time in water; remove, wash well with cold water,
place in a pan large and deep enough to contain it, cover with beer or
good ale, and let it remain until the required time for soaking a ham of
the size used has expired. Boil as usual until the skin can be readily
removed; then place the ham in a tin or an earthenware dish, and cover
with a common flour-and-water paste, or surround with butter. Bake in a
moderately heated oven until done, remove the paste or batter, cover with
bread raspings, and serve hot.
Cooked in this manner, a ham acquires the most delicious flavour,
especially if cured by a method we shall hereafter point out.
HAMBURG BEEF.—Rub a rump of beef with brown sugar, and let it lie
three days, turning frequently during the time. Remove from the dish,
wipe it, and salt it with four ounces of bay, and the same quantity of
common salt, and an ounce of saltpetre, well mixed. Cover with what
remains after rubbing in, and let it remain for a fortnight, turning it
occasionally. Remove the superfluous salt, roll tight in a cloth, and
press well with weights. Smoke the meat in the cloth, by hanging it in a
chimney where wood smoke ascends, or by adopting the same method as that
recommended for herrings.
It may be boiled, and pressed with heavy weights until cold; or fried
with bacon in slices, as required.
PASTRY.
ANTWERP CREAM.—Make a housewife’s cream, as directed by us at p. 279, and
whisk until it curdles, then set the curd carefully upon a fine sieve,
and let it drain over a basin all night. Take thirty ratafia biscuits,
bruise them, and add to the whey, with a twopenny sponge-cake broken
up fine, two table-spoonfuls of raspberry and currant jam, and two
table-spoonfuls of brandy; mix well together, pour into a small glass
dish, heap the curd over the top with a fork, and ornament the edge with
ratafia biscuits.
BON-BON CRACKERS.—Procure various coloured papers, and cut them into
pieces measuring three inches wide and four inches long; then cut the end
of each into a narrow fringe an inch long, and gum or paste a blue paper
and a red one together, so that the fringe may be at both ends. Buy some
Waterloo crackers at a toy shop, and paste each end of one to the inside
of the coloured papers, so that the centre of the cracker shall be over
the joining. Put a burnt almond or some bon-bon in the centre, roll it up
neatly, screw the two ends, and spread the fringe.
Any coloured paper will do, and the greater contrast displayed the better
the effect.
THE HOUSEWIFE’S CHRISTMAS CAKE.—Take two pounds of pounded sugar-candy,
two pounds of flour, two pounds of butter, thirty-six eggs, four pounds
of currants, a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, half a pound of
almonds blanched and chopped, half a pound of citron, a pound of candied
orange-peel, the same of candied lemon-peel, a large nutmeg pounded, half
an ounce of powdered allspice, half an ounce of powdered mace, ginger,
cinnamon, and coriander, and half a pint of brandy.
All the ingredients should be well dried, the white of the eggs well
beaten up separately from the yolks, the butter stirred and beaten almost
to a cream, then add the rest gradually, taking care they are well beaten
and mixed. Have ready a large tin, well lined with buttered paper, pour
in the cake, and bake in a slow oven for at least four hours. Smaller
proportions may be adopted.
GINGERBREAD SNAPS.—Take a pound and a half of flour, half a pound of
butter, the same of sugar and treacle, and an ounce of powdered ginger.
Mix well before the fire, add five table-spoonfuls of thick cream, work
into a stiff paste, roll out thin, dip a wine-glass into flour, cut out
the snaps with it, and bake in a quick oven.
GOOD GINGERBREAD NUTS.—Take three pounds of flour, a pound of sugar,
three and a half pounds of treacle, half an ounce of carraway seeds,
half an ounce of allspice, two ounces of butter, half an ounce of candied
lemon-peel, three ounces of ground ginger, half an ounce of coriander,
the yolks of two eggs, and a wine-glassful of brandy. Work the butter to
a cream, then the eggs, spice, and brandy, then flour, sugar, and then
_hot_ treacle; if not stiff enough, a little more flour must be added in
rolling out, but the less the better.
MINCEMEAT.—Take four cups of suet, two of currants, four of stoned
raisins, half a cup of preserved ginger, half a cup of dried citron,
a cup of pounded sugar-candy, a grated nutmeg, a dessert-spoonful of
pounded mace, another of pounded cloves, six wine-glassfuls of brandy,
and three of noyeau. Mix well.
ANOTHER.—See p. 252.
MINCEMEAT, À LA SOYER.—Take four pounds and a half of kidney beef suet,
which skin and chop very finely; have also a quarter of a pound of
candied lemon and orange-peel, the same of citron, a pound and a half
of lean cooked beef, and three pounds and a half of apples, the whole
separately chopped very fine, and put into a large pan with four pounds
and a half of currants well washed and picked, two ounces of mixed spice,
and two pounds of sugar. Mix the whole well together with the juice of
eight lemons and a pint of brandy, place it in jars, and tie down until
ready for use; a pound and a half of Malaga raisins, well stoned and
chopped, may likewise be added to the above. It is ready for use in a few
days.
PLUM PUDDING, MODERATE.—Take a pound and a half of raisins stoned, a
pound of currants, well washed and picked; the same quantity of flour and
suet; a quarter of a pound of fine white bread, rubbed well; two pounds
of orange and lemon-peel, a quarter of a pound of citron-peel cut into
square pieces; brown sugar, four ounces; one nutmeg, grated fine; half an
ounce of mixed spice; a wine-glassful of brandy, four table-spoonfuls of
white wine, two eggs well beaten, and a little salt. Mix as usual, and
boil for eight hours.
COOKERY FOR CHILDREN.
Some preparations of food proper for the young have already been given
in these pages; nevertheless, we are sure a chapter on this important
subject, so generally neglected in cookery books, will be welcomed by the
judicious.
It is of great consequence to fix the times of taking food, as well as to
regulate the quantity given to a child. The mother should, personally,
attend to these arrangements; it is her province.
There is great danger that an infant, under three years of age, will be
over-fed, if it be left to the discretion of the nurse. These persons,
generally, to stop the screaming of a child, whether it proceed from pain
or crossness, or repletion (as it often does)—they give it something to
eat—often that which is very injurious, to tempt the appetite; if it will
only eat and stop crying, they do not care for the future inconvenience
which this habit of indulgence may bring on the child and its mother.
Arrange, as early as possible, the regular times of giving food to your
children, according to their age and constitution. Young infants require
food every two hours when awake; after three months old, they may go
three hours—then cautiously lengthen the time, as the child can bear
it. But remember that all temperaments are not alike. Some of the same
age may require more food than others. One rule, however, will apply to
all—never give a child food to amuse and keep it quiet when it is not
hungry, or to reward it for being good. You may as rationally hope to
extinguish a fire by pouring on oil, as to cure a peevish temper, or
curb a violent one, by pampering the appetite for luxuries in diet; and
all the traits of goodness you thus seek to foster, will, in the end,
prove as deceptive as the mirage of green fields and cool lakes to the
traveller in the hot sands of the desert.
“My children have very peculiar constitutions,” said an anxious
mother—“they are so subject to fevers! If they take the least cold, or
even have a fall, they are sure to be attacked by fever.” The family
lived high, and those young children had a seat at the table, and were
helped to the best and richest of everything. And their luncheon was cake
and confectionery.
It was suggested to the mother that if she would adopt a different diet
for those children, give them bread and milk morning and evening, and a
plain dinner of bread, meat, and vegetables, their liability to fevers
would be much lessened.
“My children do not love milk, and won’t touch plain food”—was the
answer, with a sort of triumphant smile, as though this cramming of her
children with good things till the blood of the poor little creatures
was almost in a state of inflammation, was a high credit to her good
housekeeping.
But do not err on the other hand; and for fear your child should be
over-fed, allow it insufficient nourishment. There is not in our country
much reason to fear that such will be the case; the danger is, usually,
on the side of excess; still we must not forget that the effect of
a system of slow starvation is, if not so suddenly fatal as that of
repletion, more terrible, because it reduces the intellectual as well as
the physical nature of man, till he is hardly equal to the brutes.
In many parts of civilized and Christian Europe, the mass of the people
suffer from being over-worked and under-fed; few may die of absolute
starvation, but their term of life is much shortened, and their moral and
intellectual powers dwarfed or prostrated.
“Under an impoverished diet,” says Dr. Combe, “the moral and intellectual
capacity is deteriorated as certainly as the bodily”—and he adverts to
the workhouse and charitable institution system of weak soups and low
vegetable diet, and to the known facts that children brought up on such
fare are usually feeble, puny, and diseased in body, and are at best but
moderate in capacity.
The rational course seems to be, to feed infants till about three years
old, chiefly with milk and mild farinaceous vegetable preparations; a
large portion of good bread, light, well baked, and _cold_, should be
given them; after that period, to proportion their solid food to the
amount of exercise they are able to take. Children who play abroad in the
open air, will require more hearty nourishment, more meat, than those
who are kept confined in the house or schoolroom. From the age of ten
or twelve, to sixteen or eighteen, when the growth is most rapid and
the exercises (of boys especially) most violent, a sufficiency of plain
nourishing food should be given; there is little danger of their taking
too much, if it be of the right kind and properly cooked. But do not
allow them to eat hot bread, or use any kind of stimulating drinks.
FOOD FOR A YOUNG INFANT.—Take of fresh cow’s milk, one table-spoonful,
and mix with two table-spoonfuls of hot water; sweeten with loaf sugar
as much as may be agreeable. This quantity is sufficient for once
feeding a new-born infant; and the same quantity may be given every two
or three hours—not oftener—till the mother’s breast affords the natural
nourishment.
THICKENED MILK FOR INFANTS WHEN SIX MONTHS OLD.—Take one pint of milk,
one pint of water; boil it, and add one table-spoonful of flour. Dissolve
the flour first in half a tea-cupful of water; it must be strained in
gradually, and boiled hard twenty minutes. As the child grows older,
one-third water. If properly made, it is the most nutritious, at the
same time the most delicate food that can be given to young children.
BROTH.—Made of lamb or chicken, with stale bread toasted, and broken in,
is safe and healthy for the dinners of children, when first weaned.
MILK.—Fresh from the cow, with a _very_ little loaf sugar, is good and
safe food for young children. From three years old to seven, pure milk,
into which is crumbled stale bread, is the best breakfast and supper for
a child.
FOR A CHILD’S LUNCHEON.—Good sweet butter, with stale bread, is one of
the most nutritious, at the same time the most wholesome articles of food
that can be given children after they are weaned.
MILK PORRIDGE.—Stir four table-spoonfuls of oatmeal smoothly, into a
quart of milk, then stir it quickly into a quart of boiling water, and
boil up a few minutes till it is thickened; sweeten with sugar.
Oatmeal, where it is found to agree with the stomach, is much better for
children, being a good opener as well as cleanser; fine flour in every
shape is the reverse. Where biscuit powder is in use, let it be made at
home; this, at all events, will prevent them getting the sweepings of the
baker’s counters, boxes, and baskets. All the left bread in the nursery,
hard ends of stale loaves, &c., ought to be dried in the oven or screen,
and reduced to powder in the mortar.
MEATS FOR CHILDREN.—Mutton, lamb, and poultry, are the best. Birds and
the white meat of fowls, are the most delicate food of this kind that can
be given. These meats should be slowly cooked, and no gravy, if made rich
with butter, should be eaten by a young child. Never give children hard,
tough, half-cooked meats, of any kind.
VEGETABLES FOR CHILDREN, EGGS, ETC.—Their rice ought to be cooked in no
more water than is necessary to swell it; their apples roasted, or stewed
with no more water than is necessary to steam them; their vegetables so
well cooked as to make them require little butter, and less digestion;
their eggs boiled slow and soft. The boiling of their milk ought to be
directed by the state of their bowels; if flatulent or bilious, a very
little curry powder may be given in their vegetables with good effect;
such as turmeric and the warm seeds (not hot peppers) are particularly
useful in such cases.
POTATOES AND PEAS.—Potatoes, particularly some kinds, are not easily
digested by children; but this is easily remedied by mashing them very
fine, and seasoning them with sugar and a little milk. When peas are
dressed for children, let them be seasoned with mint and sugar, which
will take off the flatulency. If they are old, let them be pulped, as the
skins are perfectly indigestible by children’s or weak stomachs. Never
give them vegetables less stewed than would pulp through a cullender.
PUDDINGS AND PANCAKES FOR CHILDREN.—Sugar and egg, browned before the
fire, or dropped as fritters into a hot frying-pan, without fat, will
make them a nourishing meal.
RICE PUDDING WITH FRUIT.—In a pint of new milk put two large spoonfuls
of rice well washed; then add two apples, pared and quartered, or a few
currants or raisins. Simmer slowly till the rice is very soft, then add
one egg, beaten, to bind it. Serve with cream and sugar.
TO PREPARE FRUIT FOR CHILDREN.—A far more wholesome way than in pies or
puddings, is to put apples sliced, or plums, currants, gooseberries, &c.,
into a stone jar; and sprinkle among them as much sugar as necessary. Set
the jar in an oven or on a hearth, with a tea-cupful of water to prevent
the fruit from burning; or put the jar into a saucepan of water till its
contents be perfectly done. Slices of bread or some rice may be put into
the jar, to eat with the fruit.
RICE AND APPLES.—Core as many nice apples as will fill the dish; boil
them in light syrup; prepare a quarter of a pound of rice in milk, with
sugar, and salt; put some of the rice in the dish, and put in the apples,
and fill up the intervals with rice, and bake it in the oven till it is a
fine colour.
A NICE APPLE CAKE FOR CHILDREN.—Grate some stale bread, and slice about
double the quantity of apples; butter a mould, and line it with sugar
paste, and strew in some crumbs, mixed with a little sugar; then lay
in apples, with a few bits of butter over them, and so continue till
the dish is full; cover it with crumbs, or prepared rice; season with
cinnamon and sugar. Bake it well.
FRUITS FOR CHILDREN.—That fruits are naturally healthy in their season,
if rightly taken, no one, who believes that the Creator is a kind and
beneficent Being, can doubt. And yet the use of summer fruits appears
often to cause most fatal diseases, especially in children. Why is this?
Because we do not conform to the natural laws in using this kind of diet.
These laws are very simple and easy to understand. Let the fruit be ripe
when you eat it; and eat when you require _food_.
Fruits that have _seeds_ are much healthier than the _stone_ fruits. But
all fruits are better, for very young children, if baked or cooked in
some manner, and eaten with bread. The French always eat bread with raw
fruit.
Apples and winter pears are very excellent food for children, indeed,
for almost any person in health; but best when eaten at breakfast or
dinner. If taken late in the evening, fruit often proves injurious. The
old saying that apples are _gold in the morning, silver at noon, and lead
at night_, is pretty near the truth. Both apples and pears are often good
and nutritious when baked or stewed, for those delicate constitutions
that cannot bear raw fruit. Much of the fruit gathered when unripe, might
be rendered fit for food by preserving in sugar.
RIPE CURRANTS are excellent food for children. Mash the fruit, sprinkle
with sugar, and with good bread let them eat of this fruit freely.
BLACKBERRY JAM.—Gather the fruit in dry weather; allow half a pound of
good brown sugar to every pound of fruit; boil the whole together gently
for an hour, or till the blackberries are soft, stirring and mashing them
well. Preserve it like any other jam, and it will be found very useful in
families, particularly for children—regulating their bowels, and enabling
you to dispense with cathartics. It may be spread on bread, or on
puddings, instead of butter: and even when the blackberries are bought,
it is cheaper than butter. In the country, every family should preserve,
at least, half a peck of blackberries.
TO MAKE SENNA AND MANNA PALATABLE.—Take half an ounce, when mixed, senna
and manna; put it in half a pint of boiling water; when the strength
is abstracted, pour into the liquid from a quarter to half a pound of
prunes, and two large table-spoonfuls of W. I. molasses. Stew slowly
until the liquid is nearly absorbed. When cold, it can be eaten with
bread and butter, without detecting the senna, and is excellent for
costive children.
LAYING OUT TABLES.
I.
BREAKFASTS, LUNCHEONS, AND FOLDING NAPKINS.
The art of laying out a table, whether for breakfast, luncheon, dinner,
tea, or supper, consists in arranging the various dishes, plate, glass,
&c., methodically, and adhering to the rules we are about to make known.
Much trouble, irregularity, and confusion will be avoided in a house
when there is company, if servants are instructed to prepare the table,
sideboard, or dinner-waggon, in a similar manner and order daily.
All tables are usually laid out according to the following rules
throughout the United Kingdom: yet there are local peculiarities which
will necessarily present themselves, and should be adopted or rejected,
as may appear proper to the good housewife:—
BREAKFASTS.—The table should be covered with a clean white cloth: the
cups and saucers arranged at one end, if for tea; and at both ends, if
for tea and coffee; or the coffee-cups and saucers may be arranged at the
right hand side of one end of the table, and the tea-cups and saucers
on the left; the tea-pot and coffee-pot occupying the space between in
front, and the urn that at the back. Some persons substitute cocoa or
chocolate for coffee, in which case they are to be placed the same. The
slop-basin and milk-jug should be placed to the left; and the cream, and
hot milk jugs, with the sugar basin, to the right.
The remainder of the table should be occupied in the centre by the
various dishes to be partaken of; while at the sides must be ranged a
large plate for meat, eggs, &c., and a small one for toast, rolls, &c.,
with a small knife and fork for each person; the carving knife and fork
being placed point to handle; the butter and bread knives to the right
of their respective dishes, which occupy the centre part, and spoons in
front of the hot dishes with gravy. Salt-cellars should occupy the four
corners, and, if required, the cruets should be placed in the centre of
the table.
Dry toast should never be prepared longer than five minutes before
serving, as it becomes tough, and the butter, soppy and greasy, if too
long prepared. Hot rolls should be brought to table covered with a napkin.
Every dish should be garnished appropriately, either with sippets,
ornamental butter, water cresses, parsley, or some one of the garnishes
we shall point out in a future page.
The dishes usually set upon the table are selected from hot, cold, and
cured meats; hot, cold, cured, and potted fish; game, poultry, cold or
devilled; fruit, ripe, preserved, or candied; dressed and undressed
vegetables; meat-pies and patties, cold; eggs; honey-comb; entrées; and
savoury morsels—as grilled kidneys, ham-toast, devils, &c.
DEJEUNERS À LA FOURCHETTE are laid the same as suppers, except that tea
and coffee are introduced; but in sporting circles not until the solids
are removed.
When laid for a marriage or christening breakfast, a bride’s or
christening cake should occupy the centre instead of the épergne or
plateau.
LUNCHEONS OR NOONINGS.—The luncheon is laid in two ways; one way is to
bring in a butler’s tray with let-down sides, on which it is previously
arranged upon a tray cloth, and letting down the sides and spreading
the cloth upon the dining-table to distribute the things as required.
The other is to lay the cloth as for dinner, with the pickle-stand and
cruet, opposite each other; and, if in season, a small vase of flowers
in the centre; if not, a water-jug and tumblers, which may be placed
on a side-table at other times. The sides of the table are occupied by
the requisites for each guest, viz., two plates, a large and small fork
and knives, and dessert-spoon. A folded napkin, and the bread under, is
placed upon the plate of each guest.
Carafes, with the tumblers belonging to and placed over them, are laid
at the four corners, with the salt-cellars in front of them, between two
table-spoons laid bowl to handle.
If French or light wines are served, they may be placed in the original
bottles in ornamental wine vases, between the top and bottom dishes and
the vase of flowers, with the corks drawn and partially replaced.
The dishes generally served for luncheons are the remains of cold meat
neatly trimmed and garnished; cold game, hashed or plain; hashes of
all descriptions; curries; minced meats; cold pies, savoury, fruit, or
plain; plainly cooked cutlets, steaks, and chops; omelets; bacon; eggs;
devils and grilled bones; potatoes; sweetmeats; butter; cheese; salad
and pickles. In fruit, almost anything does for lunch, whether of fish,
flesh, fowl, pastry, vegetables, or fruit.
Ale and porter are generally served, but occasionally sherry, marsala,
port, or home-made wines, are introduced, with biscuits and ripe fruit.
A good housewife should always have something in the house ready to
convert into a neat little luncheon, in case a few friends drop in, to
what some are pleased to call a “tiffin;” and it is astonishing how a
really handsome-looking affair may be made out of the remains of the
dinner served the day before, some handsome glass, a sprinkle of good
plate, a few flowers, some good ale, or a little wine, and, above all, a
hearty welcome.
NAPKINS.—Dinner napkins should be about twenty-eight inches broad, and
thirty inches long. They may be folded in a variety of ways, which
impart a style to a table, without adding much to the expense, and may
be readily accomplished with a little practice and attention to the
following directions and diagrams.
[Illustration]
1.—THE MITRE.—(_Fig. 1._)
Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then turn down the right hand
corner, and turn up the left hand one, as in Fig. 2, A and B. Turn back
the point A towards the right, so that it shall lie behind C; and B to
the left, so as to be behind D. Double the napkin back at the line E,
then turn up F from before and G from behind, when they will appear as in
Fig. 3. Bend the corner H towards the right, and tuck it behind I; turn
back the corner K towards the left, at the dotted line, and tuck it into
a corresponding part at the back. The bread is placed under the mitre, or
in the centre at the top.
2.—THE EXQUISITE.—(_Fig. 4._)
Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then fold down two-fifths of
the length from each side, as in Fig. 5, at A; roll up the part B towards
the back, repeat on the other side, then turn up the corner towards the
corner A, and it will appear as D. The centre part E is now to be turned
up at the bottom, and down at the top, and the two rolls brought under
the centre-piece as in Fig. 4. The bread is placed under the centre band,
K, Fig. 4.
3.—THE COLLEGIAN.—(_Fig. 6._)
Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then turn down the two sides
towards you, so that they shall appear as in Fig. 7; then roll up the
part A underneath until it looks like B, Fig. 8. Now take the corner B
and turn it up towards C, so that the edge of the rolled part shall be
even with the central line; repeat the same on the other side, and turn
the whole over, when it will appear as in Fig. 6. The bread is placed
underneath the part K.
4.—THE CINDERELLA.—(_Fig. 9._)
Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then turn down the two sides
as in Fig. 7; turn the napkin over, and roll up the lower part as in
Fig. 10, A, B. Now turn the corner B upwards towards C, so that it shall
appear as in D; repeat on the other side, and then bring the two parts E
together so that they shall bend at the dotted line; and the appearance
will now be as Fig. 9. The bread is placed under the apron part, K, Fig.
9.
5.—THE FLIRT.—(_Fig. 11._)
Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then fold across the breadth,
commencing at one extremity, and continuing to fold from and to yourself
in folds about two inches broad, until the whole is done: then place in a
tumbler, and it will appear as in the illustration.
6.—THE NEAPOLITAN.—(_Fig. 12._)
Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then fold one of the upper
parts upon itself from you; turn over the cloth with the part having four
folds from you, and fold down the two sides so as to appear as in Fig.
7; then roll up the part A underneath, until it appears as in the dotted
lines in Fig. 15, at B. Now turn up the corner B towards C, so that the
edge of the rolled part shall be even with the central line: repeat
the same upon the opposite side, and turn the whole over, when it will
appear as in Fig. 14; the bread being placed underneath the part K, as
represented in the illustration.
7.—THE “FAVOURITE,” OR OUR OWN.—(_Fig. 14._)
Fold the napkin into three parts longways, then turn down the two sides
as in Fig. 7, and roll up the part A on both sides, until as represented
on the right hand side in Fig. 14; then turn it backwards (as A B) on
both sides; now fold down the point C towards you, turn over the napkin,
and fold the two other parts from you so that they shall appear as in
Fig. 15. Turn the napkin over, thus folded, and raising the centre part
with the two thumbs, draw the two ends (A and B) together, and pull out
the parts (C and D) until they appear as in Fig. 13. The bread is to be
placed as represented in K, Fig. 13.
II.
DINNERS.
DINNERS.—The appearance a dinner-table presents does not depend so much
upon a profuseness of viands, as upon the neatness, cleanliness and
well-studied arrangement of the whole. Taste, if well directed, may
produce a handsome dinner; whereas three times the amount of money may be
expended upon another, and yet not make even a respectable appearance.
We cannot too strongly urge the necessity of having things done in the
same manner every day as when there is company. The servants become
accustomed to waiting properly, things are always at hand, and they do
not appear awkward when visitors drop in; then everything is regular, and
goes on smoothly.
TO LAY THE CLOTH.—The table should be well polished, and then covered
with a green baize cloth, over which a fine white damask one should be
spread. If the white cloth is to be kept on after dinner, it is customary
to spread a small cloth at either end of the table where the large dishes
are placed, to protect the long cloth from accidental spots arising from
gravy, &c.; these slips are removed after dinner, and the cloth cleaned
with crumb brushes. In some houses an entire upper cloth is placed upon
the table instead of slips, and this being removed after dinner, does not
require the tedious process of brushing the table-cloth.
When the cloth has been spread, place carafes, with the tumblers
belonging to and placed over them, between every four persons, a
salt-cellar between every three persons, and a large and small knife,
fork, and spoon, to each guest, with two wine-glasses, a champagne glass,
and a tumbler, to the right of each, and the bread placed in or under
folded napkins, between the knives, forks, and spoons; and at grand
entertainments or public dinners, the name and rank of each guest neatly
written on a card in front of the napkin, so as to prevent confusion
and jealousy. The centre ornament, usually a _candelabrum_, _plateau_,
an _épergne_, or a vase of artificial flowers, must now be set on, and
the mats for the various dishes arranged; then the wine-coolers or
ornamental vases placed between the centre-piece and the top and bottom
dishes, with the wines in the original bottles, loosely corked; the
spoons for assisting the various dishes, asparagus tongs, fish-knife and
fork or slice, and carving knives and forks, are placed in front of the
respective dishes to which they belong; and knife-rests opposite to those
who have to carve; with a bill of fare, and a pile of soup-plates before
those that have to assist the soup.
_In arranging or laying out a table_, several things require particular
attention, and especially the following:—
_Plate_ should be well cleaned, and have a bright polish; few things look
worse than a greasy-looking épergne and streaky spoons. _Glass_ should
be well rubbed with a wash-leather, dipped in a solution of fine whiting
and stone-blue, and then dried; afterwards it should be polished with an
old silk handkerchief. _Plates_ and _dishes_ should be hot, otherwise
the guests will be disgusted by seeing flakes of fat floating about in
the gravy. _Bread_ should be cut in pieces about an inch thick, and each
round of a loaf into six parts; or if for a dinner party, dinner rolls
should be ordered. The bread is placed under the napkins, or on the
_left_ of each guest; if dinner napkins are not used, some of the bread
being placed in a bread-tray, covered with a crochet cloth, upon the
sideboard. _Lights_, either at or after the dinner, should be subdued,
and above the guests, if possible, so as to be shed upon the table,
without intercepting the view. _Sauces_, either bottle, sweet, or boat;
_vegetables_, and sliced cucumber, or glazed onions for stubble goose,
should be placed upon the sideboard; _a plate basket_, for removing
the soiled plates, is usually placed under the sideboard, or some
other convenient part of the room; and _two knife-trays_, covered with
napkins, are placed upon a butler’s tray; these are used for removing
soiled carvers and forks, and the soiled silver. It is useful to have a
large-sized bradawl, a corkscrew, and funnel, with strainer; the former
to break the wire of the champagne bottles, and the latter to strain port
wine, if required to be opened during dinner.
[Illustration: _Fig. 1 & 2._]
[Illustration: _Fig. 3 & 4._]
TO LAY OUT THE SIDEBOARD OR TRAY.—Little requires to be done, except
to arrange the silver, knives, cruets, and various dishes to be placed
there. The silver should be arranged on one end of the sideboard, as in
_figs. 1_ and _2_, the gravy-spoons being placed bowl to handle, and the
cheese-scoop, marrow-spoon, and salad-spoons or scissors, where most
convenient. The knives are placed, as in _fig. 3_, for the convenience
of removal, because by this means a single knife can be abstracted
without disturbing the others; carving knives and forks should be
placed above the others, point to handle. The wine-glasses, tumblers,
and finger-glasses, for dessert, are placed where most convenient, but
usually in the centre, at the back, with ice-plates near to them, and the
wine-glasses placed in the finger-glasses, as in _fig. 4_; but when only
one glass is used, that is placed in the centre, mouth downwards. At very
large or fashionable dinners, the finger-glasses are sometimes placed on
the dinner-table with the plain and coloured wine-glasses in them, and
the same, refilled, are placed on again at dessert. The cruets, sauces,
&c., are placed at one end, and the vegetables, &c., in the centre front
of the sideboard.
TO PLACE THE DISHES ON THE TABLE.—Each servant should be provided, at
large dinners, with a bill of fare, and instructed, at small ones, where
the dishes are to be placed. No two dishes resembling each other should
be near the same part of the table. _Soups_ or broth should always be
placed at the head of the table; if there are two, top and bottom; if
four, top, bottom, and two sides, opposite each other, or alternately
with fish. _Fish_ should be placed at the head of the table; if there
are two sorts, have fried at the bottom and boiled at the top; if four,
arrange the same as the soup. We may observe, that a white and a brown,
or a mild and high-seasoned soup, should occupy either side of the
centre-piece, and that it looks handsomer to have fried and boiled fish
opposite each other, but they should never be placed upon the same dish.
Fish is generally served upon a napkin, the corners of which are either
turned in or thrown over the fish, or upon a piece of simple netting,
which is turned in all round; but we recommend our readers to use the
elegant serviette, as being more stylish.
_The first course_ generally consists of soups and fish, which are
removed by the roasts, stews, &c., of the second course.
_The second course_, when there are three, consists of roasts and stews
for the top and bottom; turkey or fowls, ham garnished, tongue, or
fricandeau, for the sides; with small made-dishes for corners, served in
covered dishes, as curries, ragouts, fricassees, stews, palates, &c.
When there are two roasts, one should be white, and the other brown.
Removes are generally placed upon large dishes, for, as they supply the
place of the fish and soups, they constitute the principal part of the
dinner. What are termed _flancs_, are not so large as the removes, nor
so small as the _entrées_, or made-dishes, and are generally served in
a differently formed dish. They are seldom used except when there are
eighteen or twenty persons.
_Entrées_, or made-dishes, require great care in placing them upon the
table, otherwise the gravy slops over and soils the dish; they are,
therefore, usually served with a wall of mashed potatoes, rice, or other
vegetables, to keep them in their proper place. They should also be
served as hot as possible.
When there is but one principal dish, it should be placed at the head of
the table. If three dishes, the principal to the head, and the others
opposite each other, near the bottom; if four, the largest to the head,
the next size to the foot, and the other two at the sides; if five, place
the same as for four, with the smallest in the centre; if six, place the
same as for four, with two small dishes on each side; if seven, put three
dishes down the centre of the table, and two on each side; if eight,
four dishes down the middle, and two on each side, at equal distances;
if nine, place them in three equal lines, but with the proper dishes at
the top and bottom of the table; if ten, put four down the centre, one at
each corner, and one on each side, opposite the vacancy between the two
central dishes; or four down the middle, and three on each side, opposite
the vacancies of the centre dishes; if twelve, place them in three rows
of four each, or six down the middle, and three at equal distances
on each side. If more than twelve, they must be arranged on the same
principles, but varying according to number.
Oval or circular dining-tables require to have the dishes arranged in a
shape corresponding to the table.
_The third course_ consists of game, confectionery, delicate vegetables
dressed in the French style, puddings, creams, jellies, &c.
_When there are only two courses_, the first generally consists of
soups and fish, removed by boiled poultry, ham, tongue, stews, roasts,
ragouts, curries, or made-dishes generally, with vegetables. The second
consists of roasted poultry or game at the top and bottom, with dressed
vegetables, maccaroni, jellies, creams, preserved fruit, pastry and
general confectionery, salads, &c. It is generally contrived to give
as great a variety as possible in these dinners: thus—a jelly, a cream,
a compôte, an ornamental cake, a dish of preserved fruit, fritters, a
blancmange, a pudding, &c.
After the third course has been removed, cheese, ornamented butter,
salad, radishes, celery in a glass bowl or on a dish, sliced cucumber
(and at small parties, marrow-bones) are usually served. A marrow-spoon,
cheese-scoop, and butter-knife, being required upon the table, are to be
placed near to the dishes; a knife and fork near the celery, and a pair
of salad-scissors or a fork and spoon in the bowl with the salad.
The cheese may be served in a glass bowl, and handed round from right to
left; or if a Stilton, surrounded with the elegant serviette, and placed
upon the cheese-cloth. The bread may be served as usual, or the cheese
snaps, piled up on a crochet cloth, in a plated bread-basket placed in
the centre.
WAITING AT TABLE.—Much confusion is avoided by having an attendant
upon each side of the table; or, if the party is large, more than one,
according to the number. The usual number required for parties is
given below; and if the income admit of it, the scale may be increased
according to the second column, which will materially add to the comfort
of the guests.
_Guests._ _Servants._
6 1 2
12 2 3
15 3 4
20 4 6
30 6 8
40 9 12
50 12 20, &c.
Every attendant should be neatly attired, have a white neckcloth and
white gloves on, should know where all the articles required are, where
the dishes are to be placed, and, in fact, be acquainted with the whole
routine of the party; and, therefore, it is better to provide each one
with a bill of fare.
When every guest is seated, a servant appointed for that purpose should
stand by the side of each dish, with the right hand upon the cover; and
as soon as grace is said, the cover is to be removed and placed in some
convenient part of the room. The plates for soup should then be taken
singly from the pile opposite the person assisting it, and carried to
those guests that desire that particular soup, observing that ladies are
to be assisted before gentlemen, and that these should commence from the
head of the table, continuing to assist each until both sides are helped.
Soon after the soup has been served, the servants may pass down each
side of the table, and ask each guest what they will take, assisting
them to the dish desired as soon as it can be procured. When champagne
is given, it is handed round upon a waiter or salver at small parties,
commencing at the right hand side of the table from the top and
bottom simultaneously, without any distinction as regards ladies or
gentlemen. In large parties—and we prefer the arrangement ourselves
even in small ones—the bottle being enveloped as far as the neck with a
clean dinner-napkin, the wine is assisted in the same order as before;
but instead of being handed round on a salver, the servants pour the
wine into the glass, at the right hand side of each guest. By these
means, there is less danger of the glasses being broken by any awkward
collision. The champagne is generally iced in summer, and cool in winter,
and is assisted as soon as the soup is finished, or just after the guests
have been helped to the second course or removes.
Liqueurs are handed round when sweets are on the table. Sauces are handed
round in the sauce-boat, and, when served, placed on the sideboard or
dinner-waggon; if only a family party, they are returned to the table.
Sweet sauces are handed round in glass dishes, and bottle sauces in a
stand or basket made for that purpose.
_In removing the dinner-things_, one servant goes round the table with a
butler’s tray, and the other removes and places the things upon it. The
cloth is then brushed with a crumb-brush; or the two sides are turned in,
and then the cloth dexterously jerked off the table, the lights replaced,
and the dessert set on.
When knives, forks, and spoons, are removed from dishes or plates, they
should be placed in proper trays covered with napkins; one being used for
the silver, the other for the steel articles.
When plates or dishes are removed from the table, great care is to be
observed with respect to holding them horizontally, otherwise the gravy,
syrup, or liquid, may injure the dresses of the guests. We remember
well to have seen a clumsy servant let some soup fall over the whole of
the back of an officer’s new red coat, which was, of course, completely
spoiled!
In some circles, the fashion prevails of placing finger-glasses on table
immediately preceding dessert; but in others, especially of the highest
fashion, cut-glass bowls, partially filled with rose or orange-flower
water, iced in summer and lukewarm in winter, are handed down each side
of the table, upon salvers: into these each guest dips the corner of the
dinner-napkin, and just touches the lips and the tips of the fingers, to
afford a refreshing feeling.
III.
DESSERTS, TEAS, AND SUPPERS.
THE DESSERT.—The dessert may consist of merely two dishes of fruit for
the top and bottom; dried fruits, biscuits, filberts, &c., for the sides
and corners; and a cake for the centre.
When the party is large, and ices are served, the ice-plates are placed
round the table, the ice-pails at both ends of the table, and dishes with
wafer-biscuits at the sides. Some persons have the ices served in glass
dishes, which, together with the wafer-biscuits, are handed round before
the usual dessert.
When there is preserved ginger, it follows the ices, as it serves to
stimulate the palate, so that the delicious coolness of the wines may be
better appreciated.
The side and corner dishes usually put on for dessert, consist
of:—Compôtes in glass dishes; frosted fruit served on lace-paper,
in small glass dishes; preserved and dried fruits, in glass dishes;
biscuits, plain and fancy; fresh fruit, served in dishes surrounded with
leaves or with moss; olives, wafer-biscuits, brandy-scrolls, &c.
The centre dishes may consist either of a savoy or an ornamental cake, on
an elevated stand—a group of waxen fruit, surrounded with moss—a melon, a
pine-apple, grapes, or a vase of flowers.
[Illustration: _Fig. 5._]
Each plate should contain a knife, fork, and spoon, with two
wine-glasses, arranged upon a d’oyley, as in _Fig. 5_. These are to be
placed before each guest; and a finger-glass, with cold water in summer,
and lukewarm water in winter, on the right of each plate; and grape
scissors, and melon knife and fork, before their respective dishes. Glass
bowls containing sifted sugar, with pierced ladles, or others filled with
cream, are to be placed near to the centre dish, if they are required.
A cut-glass jug, with a tumbler on either side, should be placed in a
convenient part of the centre of the table.
The wine, either cooled or not, should be placed at both ends of the
table, or at the bottom, if only a small party, the decanters being
placed in casters, though this fashion is now much abolished.
Zests are put down after the dessert is removed, and consist chiefly of
anchovy toasts, devilled poultry and game, and biscuits, gravy, toast,
grills, &c.
Coffee is the last thing served, and is generally handed round upon a
salver; after this, the gentlemen withdraw to the drawing-room.
TEA.—If after a dinner party, the tea is generally handed round by two
servants, the one having tea and coffee, with hot milk, cream, and sugar,
upon one tray; the other having thinly-cut and rolled bread and butter,
biscuits, and cake, upon another tray.
If served at an evening party or dance, a servant assists the guests,
as they arrive, to tea or coffee, which is ranged upon a side-table in
a small room. The tea and coffee occupy the two ends of the table, on
either side of the urn, which is placed in the centre and back. In front
of the urn are ranged the sugar-candy for coffee, sugar, hot milk, cream,
bread and butter, cake, and biscuits. When the guests have been assisted,
they are ushered into the presence of the host and hostess.
Tea, when only for a small party, may be brought in upon a tray, the tea
and coffee pots occupying the centre of the tray; the cups and saucers
the front; and the hot milk, cream, slop-basin, and sugar, the ends. The
urn is placed at the back of the tray; and the bread and butter, cut or
not, with cake, biscuits, muffins, crumpets, or toast, at the sides.
SUPPERS.—The great secret of laying out a supper consists in arranging
the china, glass, silver, linen, lights, confectionery, substantials,
trifles, flowers, and other articles, with a due regard to form, colour,
size, and material.
A supper table should neither be too much crowded, nor too scanty,
nor scattered and broken up with small dishes. Two dishes of the same
description should not be placed near to each other: dishes should not be
heaped up as if for a ploughman’s repast, but contain sufficient to make
them look well, without being over or under-done as regards quantity.
Hot suppers are now seldom served; for people dine later than they did
formerly; and besides being more expensive than cold ones, they also give
more trouble.
The centre of the table is generally occupied by an épergne, vase of
flowers, globe of fish upon an elevated stand, a plateau, or small
fountain; around which are arranged:—Dried, preserved, frosted, or
candied fruits; custards, jellies, and trifles, in glasses; and small
biscuits. The top and bottom of the table are furnished with game,
fowls, or meat; the sides have dishes of ham sliced; tongue, collared,
potted, hung, and grated; brawn, mock or real; savoury pies; lobsters;
oysters; dressed crab or cray-fish; prawn pyramids; sandwiches of ham,
beef, tongue, anchovy, or other savoury morsels; tarts, tartlets; cake,
biscuits; whipped and other creams; jellies, blancmange; caramel baskets;
patties, &c.
TRUSSING AND CARVING.
POULTRY AND GAME.
OBSERVATIONS ON TRUSSING.—Although in London the various articles are
trussed by the poulterer from whom they are purchased, yet it happens
that presents from the country are sometimes spoiled for want of a
knowledge of the following rules, both on the part of the mistress and
cook.
All poultry should be well picked, every plug, or stub, removed, and the
bird carefully and nicely singed with white paper. In drawing poultry
or game, care should be taken not to break the gall-bladder—as it would
spoil the flavour of the bird by imparting a bitter taste to it, that
no washing or any process could remove—nor the gut joining the gizzard,
otherwise the inside would be gritty.
OBSERVATIONS ON CARVING.—The carving knife for poultry and game is
smaller and lighter than that for meat; the point is more peaked, and the
handle longer.
In cutting up wild-fowl, duck, goose, or turkey, more prime pieces may be
obtained by carving slices from pinion to pinion without making wings,
which is a material advantage in distributing the bird when the party is
large.
A GOOSE.
TRUSSING.—Pick and stub it clean, cut the feet off at the joint, and
the pinion off at the first joint. Then cut off the neck close to the
back, leaving the skin of the neck long enough to turn over the back.
Pull out the throat, and tie a knot at the end. Loosen the liver and
other matters at the breast end with the middle finger, and cut it open
between the vent and the rump. Draw out all the entrails except the soul,
wipe the body clean out with a cloth, beat the breast-bone flat with a
rolling-pin, put a skewer into the wing, and draw the legs up close; put
the skewer through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and the
same on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, tuck
it close down to the sidesman, run it through, and do the same on the
other side. Cut off the end of the vent, and make a hole large enough for
the passage of the rump, as by that means it will keep in the seasoning
much better.
[Illustration]
CARVING.—Turn the neck towards you, and cut two or three long slices on
each side of the breast, in the lines 1–2, quite to the bone. Then remove
the leg by turning the goose on one side, putting the fork through the
small end of the leg-bone, and pressing it close to the body, which,
when the knife has entered at 4, raises the joint; the knife is then to
be passed under the leg, in the direction 4–5. If the leg hangs to the
carcass at the joint 5, turn it back with the fork, and it will readily
separate if young, but will require some strength if old. Take the wing
off by putting the fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it
close to the body; divide the joint at 3 with the knife, carrying it
along as far as 4. When the leg and wing on one side are taken off,
remove those on the other side.
To get at the stuffing, the apron must be removed by cutting in the line,
6, 5, 7, and then take off the merry-thought in the line, 8, 9. The
neck-bones are next to be separated as in a fowl, and all other parts
divided the same.
The best parts are the breast slices; the fleshy part of the wing,
which may be divided from the pinion; the thigh-bone, which may be
easily divided in the joint from the leg-bone; the pinion; and next,
the side-bones. The rump is a nice piece to those who like it; and the
carcass is preferred by some to other parts.
When assisting the stuffing, extract it with a spoon from the body
through the aperture caused by removing the apron; mix it with the gravy,
which should first be poured from the boat into the body of the goose,
before any one is helped.
GREEN GOOSE
Is trussed and carved in the same way, but the most delicate parts are
the breast, and the gristle at the lower part of it.
TURKEY.
TRUSSING.—When the bird is picked carefully, break the leg-bone close
to the foot, hang on a hook, and draw out the strings from the thigh;
cut the neck close off to the back, taking care to leave the crop-skin
long enough to turn over the back. Remove the crop, and loosen the liver
and gut at the throat end with the middle finger. Cut off the vent,
remove the gut, pull out the gizzard with a crooked wire, and the liver
will soon follow; but be careful not to break the gall. Wipe the inside
perfectly clean with a wet cloth, then cut the breast-bone through on
each side close to the back, and draw the legs close to the crop, then
put a cloth on the breast, beat the thigh-bone down with a rolling-pin
till it lies flat.
If the turkey is to be trussed for _boiling_, cut the first joint of the
legs off; pass the middle finger into the inside, raise the skin of the
legs, and put them under the apron of the bird. Put a skewer into the
joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run it through the
body and the other leg and wing. The liver and gizzard must be put in the
pinions, care being taken to open and previously remove the contents of
the latter; the gall-bladder must also be detached from the liver. Then
turn the small end of the pinion on the back, and tie a packthread over
the ends of the legs, to keep them in their places.
If the turkey is to be _roasted_, leave the legs on, put a skewer in the
joint of the wing, tuck the legs close up, and put the skewer through the
middle of the legs and body; on the other side put another skewer in at
the small part of the leg. Put it close on the outside of the sidesman,
and push the skewer through, and the same on the other side. Put the
liver and gizzard between the pinions, and turn the point of the pinion
on the back. Then put, close above the pinions, another skewer through
the body of the bird.
[Illustration]
CARVING.—The finest parts of a turkey are the breast, neck-bones, and
wings; the latter will bear some delicate slices being removed. After
the four quarters are severed, the thighs must be divided from the
drum-sticks, which, being tough, should be reserved till the last. It
is customary not to cut up more than the breast, but if any more is
required, to take off one of the wings; a thin slice of the forcemeat,
which is under the breast, should be given to each person, cutting in the
direction from the rump to the neck. A turkey is generally carved the
same as a pheasant; it has no merry-thought.
TURKEY-POULTS.
TRUSSING.—Separate the neck from the head and body, but not the
neck-skin. Draw the same as a turkey. Put a skewer through the joint of
the pinion, tuck the legs close up, run the skewer through the middle of
the leg, through the body, and so on the other side. Cut off the under
part of the bill, twist the skin of the neck round and round, and skewer
the head with the bill end forward; another skewer must then be put into
the sidesman, and the legs placed between the sidesman and apron on each
side. Pass the skewer through all, and cut off the toe-nails. Some lard
them on the breast. It is optional whether the liver and gizzard be used
or not.
CARVING.—They are to be carved the same as a turkey.
FOWLS.
TRUSSING.—Fowls must be picked very clean, and the neck cut off close
to the back. Take out the crop, and, with the middle finger, loosen the
liver and other parts. Cut off the vent, draw it clean, and beat the
breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin.
If the fowl is to be _boiled_, cut off the nails of the feet, and tuck
them down close to the legs. Put your finger into the inside, and raise
the skin of the legs; then cut a hole in the top of the skin, and put the
legs under. Put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, and bring the
middle of the leg close to it; put the skewer through the middle of the
leg, and through the body, and then do the same on the other side. Open
the gizzard, remove the contents, and wash well; remove the gall-bladder
from the liver. Put the gizzard and the liver in the pinions, turn the
points on the back, and tie a string over the tops of the legs, to keep
them in their proper places.
[Illustration: _Boiled Fowl._]
If the fowl is to be _roasted_, put a skewer in the first joint of the
pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put the skewer
through the middle of the leg, and through the body, and do the same on
the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the leg, and through
the sidesman; do the same on the other side, and then put another through
the skin of the feet, which should have the nails cut off.
[Illustration: _Roast Fowl._]
CARVING.—A fowl is cut up in the same way, whether roasted or boiled.
We have illustrated the method of carving upon the boiled fowl. Fix the
fork in the middle of the breast at 5, take off the wing in the direction
1–2, dividing the joint at 1. Lift up the pinion with your fork, and draw
the wing towards the leg, which will separate the fleshy part better
than by the knife; and between the leg and the body at 3 to the bone as
far as the joint; then give the knife a sudden twist, and the joint will
yield if the bird is young; repeat this on the other side, and then take
off the merry-thought in the line 2–5–4, by passing the knife under it
towards the neck; now remove the neck-bones by passing the knife in at
7 under the long broad part of the bone in the line 7–6; then lifting
it up, and breaking off the end of the shorter part of the bone, which
cleaves to the breast-bone. Divide the breast from the back, by cutting
through the tender ribs on each side, from the neck quite down to the
vent; turn up the back, press the point of the knife about half-way
between the neck and rump, and on raising the lower end it will separate
easily. Turn the rump from you, take off the sidesman by forcing the
knife through the rump-bone, in the lines 5–8, and when this is done the
whole fowl is completely carved.
The prime parts of a fowl, whether roasted or boiled, are the wings,
breast, and merry-thought; and next to these, the neck-bones and
side-bones; the legs are rather coarse; of a boiled fowl, however, the
legs are rather more tender than a roasted one; of the leg of a fowl the
thigh is the better part, and therefore when given to any one should
be separated from the drum-stick, which is done by passing the knife
underneath, in the hollow, and turning the thigh-bone back from the
leg-bone.
CHICKEN.
TRUSSING.—Pick and draw them in the same manner as you would fowls; but,
as their skins are very tender, plunge them into scalding water, and
remove when the feathers will come off readily.
If they are to be _boiled_, cut off the nails, notch the sinews on each
side of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and then peel the rump.
Draw the skin tight over the legs, put a skewer in the first joint of the
pinion, and bring the middle of the legs close. Put the skewer through
the middle of the legs, and through the body; and do the same on the
other side. Clean the gizzard, and remove the gall from the liver; put
them into the pinions, and turn the points on the back.
If for _roasting_, cut off the feet, put a skewer in the first joint
of the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg close. Run the skewer
through the middle of the leg and body, and do the same on the other
side. Put another skewer into the sidesman, put the legs between the
apron and the sidesman, and run the skewer through. Having cleaned the
liver and gizzard, put them under the pinions, turn the points on the
back, and pull the breast-skin over the neck.
CARVING.—They are to be cut up the same as a fowl.
PHEASANT.
TRUSSING.—Pick them clean, cut a slit at the back of the neck, take out
the crop, loosen the liver, and gut the breast with the fore-finger; then
cut off the vent, and draw them. Cut off the pinion at the first joint,
and wipe out the inside with the pinion. Beat the breast-bone flat with
a rolling-pin, put a skewer in the pinion, and bring the middle of the
legs close. Then run the skewer through the legs, body, and the other
pinion, twist the head, and put it on the end of the skewer, with the
bill fronting the breast. Put another skewer into the sidesman, and put
the legs close on each side of the apron, and then run the skewer through
all. If you wish the cock-pheasant to look well, leave the beautiful
feathers on the head, and cover with paper to protect them from the fire.
Save the long feathers from the tail; and when cooked, stick them into
the rump before sending to table.
If the pheasants are for _boiling_, put the legs in the same manner as in
trussing a fowl.
[Illustration]
CARVING.—Fix the fork in the centre of the breast, just below the cross
line 6–7, you will then be enabled to hold the bird firmly. Slice down
the breast in the lines 1–2, and then proceed to take off the leg on one
side, in the direction 4–5, and the wing on the same side, in the line
3–4. Turn the bird over, remove the leg and wing of the other side, and
separate the slices previously divided on the breast. In removing the
wing, be careful to cut it in the notch 1, for if cut too near the neck,
as at 1–6, the neck-bone will interfere, from which, of course, the wing
must be separated. The merry-thought is now to be removed in the line
6–7, by passing the knife under it toward the neck. The remaining parts
are to be cut up in the same manner as a roast fowl.
The best parts are the breast, the wings, and merry-thought. Some give
preference to the brains, but the leg is the highest flavoured.
PARTRIDGE.
TRUSSING.—Partridges, and all kinds of moor-game, are to be trussed in
the same manner as pheasants.
[Illustration]
CARVING.—This bird is cut up in the same manner as a fowl, only, on
account of the smallness, the merry-thought is seldom divided from
the breast. The wings must be taken off in the lines 1–2, and the
merry-thought, if wished, in the lines 3–4. The prime parts are the
wings, breast, and merry-thought. The wing is considered best, and the
tip of it is esteemed the most delicate piece of the whole.
DUCK.
TRUSSING.—Ducks are trussed in the same manner as geese, except that the
feet must be left on, and turned close to the legs.
[Illustration: _Back of a Duck, trussed._]
CARVING.—Remove the legs and wings as directed before for a goose, and
cut some slices from each side of the breast. The seasoning will be
found under the apron, as in the other bird. If it is necessary, the
merry-thought, &c., can be detached in the same manner as when carving a
fowl.
WILD-FOWL.
TRUSSING.—Pick clean, cut off the neck close to the back, and, with the
middle finger, loosen the liver and other parts. Cut off the pinions at
the first joint; then cut a slit between the vent and the rump, and draw
them clean. Clean them properly with the long feathers on the wing, cut
off the nails, and turn the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer in the
pinion, pull the legs close to the breast, and run the skewer through the
legs, body, and the other pinion. Cut off the end of the vent, and put
the rump through it.
All kinds of wild-fowl are to be trussed thus.
CARVING.—Every kind of wild-fowl must be carved the same as a duck.
PIGEON.
TRUSSING.—Pick clean, take off the neck close to the back; then remove
the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out the entrails and gizzard, but
leave the liver, as a pigeon has no gall-bladder.
If for _roasting_, cut off the toes, cut a slit in one of the legs,
and put the other through it. Draw the leg tight to the pinion, put a
skewer through the pinion, legs, and body, and with the handle of the
knife break the breast flat. Clean the gizzard, put it under one of the
pinions, and turn the points on the back.
If for _boiling_ or _stewing_, cut the feet off at the joints, turn the
legs, and stick them in the sides, close to the pinions. If for a _pie_,
they must be done in the same manner.
[Illustration]
CARVING.—There are three methods of carving them:—1st, as a chicken; 2nd,
by dividing them down the middle; and 3rd, dividing them across, which is
done by fixing the fork at 1, and entering the knife just before it, then
cutting in the lines 1–2 and 1–3. The lower part is considered the better
half.
WOODCOCK, PLOVER, AND SNIPE.
TRUSSING.—If these birds are not very fresh, great care must be taken in
picking them, as they are very tender to pick at any time; for even the
heat of the hand will sometimes take off the skin, which will destroy
the beauty of the bird. When picked clean, cut the pinions in the first
joint, and with the handle of a knife beat the breast-bone flat. Turn the
legs close to the thighs, and tie them together at the joints. Put the
thighs close to the pinions, put a skewer into the pinions, and run it
through the thighs, body, and other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take
out the eyes, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the bill
close to the breast. _These birds must never be drawn._
[Illustration]
CARVING.—Woodcocks and plovers are carved the same as a fowl, if large;
but cut in quarters if small. Snipes are cut in halves. The head is
generally opened in all.
LARKS, WHEAT-EARS, AND ALL SMALL BIRDS.
TRUSSING.—Pick well, cut off their heads, and the pinions of the first
joint. Beat the breast-bone flat, and turn the feet close to the legs,
and put one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run a skewer
through the middle of the bodies. Tie the skewer fast to the spit when
you put them down to roast.
CARVING.—These birds may be divided down the middle, or given whole,
especially when small.
HARE.
TRUSSING.—Run a skewer through the two shoulders, at 2; another through
the head at 1, or pass it into the mouth and through the body, to keep
the head in its place; two others should be passed through the roots of
the ears, to keep them erect; and another through the legs at 3. The
inside of the ears should be singed out with a hot poker before roasting,
and the eyes extracted with a fork. Many people let a hare soak in cold
water all night before trussing, but a few hours is quite sufficient to
extract the blood.
[Illustration]
CARVING.—Insert the point of the knife inside the shoulder at 6, and
divide all the way down to the rump, on both sides, in the line 6, 7, 8,
which will separate the hare into three pieces. Sever the shoulders in
the direction 5, 6, 7, and the legs in a similar manner; as the latter is
too large for one person in a large hare, it should be divided from the
thigh. Now behead it, cut off the ears close to the roots, and divide the
upper from the lower jaw; then place the former on a plate, put the point
of the knife into the forehead, and divide it through the centre down
to the nose. Cut the back into several small pieces in the lines 9–10,
and proceed to assist, giving some stuffing (which is found below 10),
and, gravy to each person. This can only be done easily when the animal
is young; if old, it must be cut up as follows:—Cut off the legs and
shoulders first, and then cut out long narrow slices on each side of the
back-bone in the direction 7–8; then divide the back-bone into three or
more parts, and behead the hare as usual.
The prime parts are the back and legs; the ears are considered a luxury
by some, and so are the head, brains, and bloody part of the neck. The
best part of the leg is the fleshy part of the thigh at 8.
RABBITS.
RABBITS, whether for roasting or boiling, are trussed and cut up the
same as a hare, except that the back is divided into two or three parts,
without separating it from the belly. The best parts are the shoulders
and back; the head should not be given unless asked for.
All printed directions must fail without constant practice; yet with
practice, and due attention to the rules we have laid down, we doubt not
that many of our readers will speedily become good carvers.
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING FISH.
As the manner in which joints, and other provisions are carved, makes
a material difference in the consumption and comfort of a family, it
becomes highly important to those who study economy and good order in
their domestic arrangements, to practise the art. We therefore recommend
them to study the rules we purpose laying down, and which we commence
with directions for carving fish. Our papers upon this subject will be
accompanied by excellent illustrations. It must be remembered that, in
carving, more depends upon skill than on strength; that the carving knife
should be light, and of moderate size, with a keen edge; and that the
dish should be so placed as to give the operator complete command over
the joint.
Fish is served with a fish-slice, or the new fish-knife and fork, and
requires very little carving, care being required, however, not to break
the flakes, which, from their size, add much to the beauty of cod and
salmon. Serve part of the roe, milt, or liver, to each person. The heads
of carp, part of those of cod and salmon, sounds of cod, and fins of
turbot, are likewise considered delicacies.
[Illustration: _Mackerel._]
MACKEREL.—Take off the head and tail by passing the slice across in the
direction of lines 1 and 2; they should then be divided down the back, so
as to assist each person to a side; but if less is required, the thicker
end should be given, as it is more esteemed. If the roe is asked for, it
will be found between 1 and 2.
Barbel, Carp, Haddock, Herring, Perch, Whiting, &c., should be assisted
the same as Mackerel; remembering that the head of the Carp is esteemed a
delicacy.
[Illustration: _Cod’s Head and Shoulders._]
COD’S HEAD AND SHOULDERS.—Pass the fish-slice or knife from 1 to 6 down
to the bone; then help pieces from between 1–2, and 3–4, and with each
slice give a piece of the sound, which lies under the back-bone, and
is procured by passing the knife in the direction 4–5. There are many
delicate parts about the head, particularly the oyster, which is the
cheek, below the eye; and a great deal of the jelly kind, which lies
about the jaws. The tongue and palate are considered delicacies, and are
obtained by passing the slice or a spoon into the mouth.
[Illustration: _Salmon._]
SALMON.—Give part of the back and belly to each person, or as desired.
If a whole salmon is served, remember that the choice parts are next the
head, the thin part is the next best, and the tail the least esteemed.
Make an incision along the back 9 to 10, and another from 1 to 2, and 3
to 4; cut the thickest part, between 5–6, 10–2, for the lean; and 7–8 for
the fat. When the fish is very thick, do not help too near the bone, as
the flavour and colour are not so good.
[Illustration: _Turbot._]
TURBOT.—Place the fish with the under part uppermost on the dish, so that
this may be assisted in preference. Make an incision from 1 to 2, and
another from 3 to 4; then cut from between as 5, 6, which is the primest
part. When the whole of this side is finished, assist the upper part,
raising the back-bone with the fork, while you use the fish-knife for the
flesh: this is more solid and less delicate. The fins are much esteemed.
BRILL, PLAICE, and flat fish generally are assisted in the same manner as
turbot.
SOLES may be assisted the same as turbot, or cut across the middle, bone
and all, so as to divide the fish into three or four parts; one portion
being given to each person.
EELS are usually cut into pieces about three inches long; and the
thickest part being most esteemed, should be given first.
NAMES OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS IN ANIMALS.
[Illustration: 1.—_Beef._
_Hind Quarter._
1. Sirloin.
2. Rump.
3. Aitch-Bone.
4. Buttock.
5. Mouse-Buttock.
6. Veiny Piece.
7. Thick Flank.
8. Thin Flank.
9. Leg.
10. Fore-ribs; 5 ribs.
_Fore Quarter._
11. Middle-rib; 4 ribs.
12. Chuck; 3 ribs.
13. Shoulder, or Leg of Mutton Piece.
14. Brisket.
15. Clod.
16. Neck, or Sticking Piece.
17. Shin.
18. Cheek.]
[Illustration: 2.—_Mutton or Lamb._
1. Leg.
2. Loin, best end.
3. Loin, chump end.
4. Neck, best end.
5. Neck, scrag end.
6. Shoulder.
7. Breast.
8. Head.
A Chine is two Necks. A Saddle is two Loins.]
[Illustration: 3.—_Pork._
1. The Spare-rib.
2. The Hand.
3. The Belly or Spring.
4. Fore-loin.
5. Hind-loin.
6. Leg.
7. Head.]
[Illustration: 4.—_Veal._
1. Loin, best end.
2. Loin, chump end.
3. Fillet.
4. Hind-knuckle.
5. Fore-knuckle.
6. Neck, best end.
7. Neck, scrag end.
8. Blade-Bone.
9. Breast, best end.
10. Breast, Brisket end.
11. Head.]
[Illustration: 5.—_Venison._
1. Haunch.
2. Neck.
3. Shoulder.
4. Breast.]
DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING JOINTS.
In assisting the more fleshy joints—such as beef, leg, or saddle of
mutton, and fillet of veal—cut thin, smooth, and neat slices; taking care
to pass the knife through to the bones of beef and mutton.
The carver would be saved much trouble, if the joints of carcass pieces
of mutton, lamb, and veal, were divided by the butcher previous to
cooking. If the whole of the meat belonging to each bone should be too
thick, a slice may be taken off from between every two bones.
In assisting some boiled joints, as aitch-bone or round of beef, remove
and lay aside a thick slice from the top, before you begin to serve.
[Illustration: _Edge or Aitch-bone of Beef._]
EDGE OR AITCH-BONE OF BEEF.—Cut off a slice three-quarters of an inch
thick, from the upper part, from 1 to 2; help in long thin slices. The
soft marrow fat lies below 3, at the back; the firm fat is to be cut in
thin horizontal slices at 4. Before sending to table, remove the wooden
skewers and insert _atelets_, which may be withdrawn when you cut them
down.
[Illustration: _Part of a Sirloin of Beef._]
SIRLOIN OF BEEF.—There are two modes of helping this joint; either by
carving long thin slices from 3 to 4, and assisting a portion of the
marrowy fat, which is found underneath the ribs, to each person; or by
cutting thicker, slices in the direction 1 to 2. When sent to table the
joint should be laid down on the dish with the surface 2 uppermost.
RIBS OF BEEF are carved similarly to the sirloin, commencing at the thin
end of the joint, and cutting long slices, so as to assist fat and lean
at the same time.
ROUND, OR BUTTOCK OF BEEF.—Remove the upper surface in the same manner as
for an aitch-bone of beef, carve thin horizontal slices of fat and lean,
as evenly as possible. It requires a sharp knife and steady hand to carve
it well.
[Illustration: _Brisket of Beef._]
BRISKET OF BEEF must be carved in the direction 1–2, quite down to the
bone, after cutting off the outside, which should be about three-quarters
of an inch thick.
[Illustration: _Shoulder of Mutton._]
SHOULDER OF MUTTON.—First cut down to the bone, in the direction of the
line 1, assist thin slices of lean from each side of the incision. The
best fat is found at 2, and should be cut in thin slices in the direction
of that line. Several delicate slices may be cut on either side of the
line 3, and there are some nice bits on the under-side, especially near
the shank and the flap. Some carve this joint by cutting long slices from
the knuckle to the broad end, which is in fact, an extension of line 3;
it is not an economical way. When sent to the table, the knuckle should
be bound round with writing-paper, or a knitted ornament, as for ham.
[Illustration: _Leg of Mutton._]
LEG OF MUTTON.—Wether mutton is esteemed most, and is known by a lump
of fat at the edge of the broadest part, 7. The finest slices are to
be obtained from the centre, by cutting in the direction 1–2; and some
very good cuts may be got off the broad end from 5 to 6. Some persons
prefer the knuckle, which, though tender, is dry; the question should
therefore be asked. By turning over the leg, some excellent slices may be
procured, especially when it is cold, by cutting lengthways, the same as
carving venison. The cramp-bone is another delicacy, and is obtained by
cutting down to the thigh-bone at 4, and passing the knife under it in a
semicircular direction to 3. The fat lies chiefly on the ridge 5. When
sent to table, it should have a frill of paper, or a knitted ornament
round the knuckle; and if boiled, should lie on the dish as represented
above, but should be turned over if roasted.
HAUNCH OF MUTTON consists of the leg and part of the loin, cut so as to
resemble a haunch of venison, and is to be carved in the same manner.
SADDLE, OR CHINE OF MUTTON.—This is an excellent and elegant joint,
and should be carved in long, thin, smooth slices from the tail to the
end, commencing close to the back-bone—a portion of fat being assisted
with each slice, which must be taken from the sides. It is carved on
both sides of the back-bone. Some carvers make an incision close to the
back-bone through its length, and cut slices cross-ways from thence. If
sent to table with the tail on, it may be removed by cutting between the
joint.
LOIN OF MUTTON is easily carved, as the bones are divided at the joints.
Begin at the narrow end, and take off the chops; some slices of meat may
be obtained between the bones, when the joints are cut through.
[Illustration: _Fore Quarter of Lamb._]
FORE QUARTER OF LAMB.—First separate the shoulder from the breast by
passing the knife in the direction 3, 4, and 5, then holding the shoulder
up with the carving-fork, sprinkle some salt and cayenne pepper on both
surfaces, and squeeze a lemon or Seville orange over them; add a small
piece of fresh butter, and replace the shoulder for a short time; then
remove it to another dish. The body should be divided by an incision, as
in 1, 2, so as to separate the ribs from the gristly part, and either
may be assisted, by cutting in the direction 6, 7. The shoulder is to be
carved the same as mutton.
LOIN OF LAMB, LEG OF LAMB, and SHOULDER OF LAMB, must be carved in the
same manner as mutton, for which see directions.
[Illustration: _Haunch of Venison._]
HAUNCH OF VENISON.—First cut it across down to the bone in the line
1–3–2, then turn the dish with the end, 4, towards you, put in the point
of the knife at 3, and cut it down as deep as possible in the direction
3–4, after which, continue to cut slices parallel to 3–4, on the right
and left of the line. The best slices are on the left of the line 3–4,
supposing 4 to be towards you; and the fattest slices are to be found
between 4 and 2.
LOIN OF VEAL should be jointed previous to being sent to table, when the
divisions should be separated with the carving knife, and a portion of
the kidney, and the fat which surrounds it, given with each division.
[Illustration: _A Breast of Veal Roasted._]
BREAST OF VEAL, ROASTED, should be divided into two parts by an incision
in the direction 1–2; then divide the brisket, or gristly part,
into convenient pieces, as 3–4, 5–6, and the ribs also, as 7–8. The
sweetbread, 9, may be divided into portions, or assisted whole; it is
more economical, however, to make a side dish of it, if you have a few
friends.
[Illustration: _A Fillet of Veal._]
FILLET OF VEAL is carved similarly to round of beef, in thin smooth
slices, off the top; some persons like the outside, therefore ask the
question. For the stuffing, cut deep into the flap between 1–2, and help
a portion of it to each person. The _atelets_ may be removed when you cut
down to them.
[Illustration: _Knuckle of Veal._]
KNUCKLE OF VEAL is to be carved in the direction 1–9. The most delicate
fat lies about the part 4, and if cut in the line 3–4, the two bones,
between which the marrowy fat lies, will be divided.
[Illustration: _A Roasted Pig._]
ROASTED PIG.—The pig is seldom sent to table whole, but is divided by
the cook, and served up as represented in the accompanying illustration.
First divide the shoulder from the body on one side, and then the leg in
the same manner; separate the ribs into convenient portions, and assist
a little stuffing and gravy with each. If the head has not been divided,
it must be done, and the brains taken out and mixed with the gravy and
stuffing. The triangular piece of the neck is the most delicate part
of the pig, the ribs the next best, and the ear is also regarded as a
delicacy.
[Illustration: _Leg of Pork._]
LEG OF PORK, whether boiled or roasted, is carved the same. Commence
about midway, between the knuckle and the thick end, and cut thin deep
slices from either side of the line 1 to 2. For the seasoning in the
roast leg, look under the skin at the thick end.
HAND OF PORK.—Cut thin slices either across near the knuckle or from the
blade-bone, the same as for a shoulder of mutton.
LOIN OF PORK is to be carved in the same manner as a loin of mutton.
A SPARE-RIB OF PORK is carved by cutting slices from the fleshy part,
after which the bones should be disjointed and separated.
[Illustration: _Ham._]
HAM may be carved in three ways; firstly, by cutting long delicate slices
through the thick fat in the direction 1–2, down to the bone; secondly,
by inserting the point of the carving knife in the circle in the middle,
taking out a piece as 3, and by cutting thin circular slices, thus
enlarge the hole gradually, which keeps the meat moist; and thirdly,
which is the most economical way, by commencing at the hock end 4–5, and
proceeding onwards. When used for pies, the meat should be cut from the
under-side, after taking off a thick slice. It should be sent to table
with a frill of white paper or a knitted ornament on the knuckle.
[Illustration: _Half a Calf’s Head Boiled._]
HALF A CALF’S HEAD BOILED should be cut in thin slices from 1 to 2, the
knife passing down to the bone. The best part in the head is the throat
sweetbread, which is situated at the thick part of the neck 3, and should
be carved in slices from 3 to 4, and helped with the other parts. If the
eye is wished for, force the point of the carving knife down on one side
to the bottom of the socket, and cut it quite round. The palate or roof
of the mouth is esteemed a great delicacy, and some fine lean will be
found on the lower jaw, and nice gristly fat about the ear. The brains
and tongue are generally sent to table on a separate dish; the centre
slice of the tongue is considered the best.
[Illustration: _A Tongue._]
TONGUE should be cut across nearly through the middle, at the line 1, and
thin slices taken from each side; a portion of the fat, which is situated
at the root of the tongue, being assisted with each.
THE END.
Sumfield & Jones, Printers, West Harding Street, Fetter Lane.