FORCED VEGETABLES.—Asparagus, beans, cucumbers, and rhubarb.

FRUIT.—_Apples_—French pippins, golden russet, Holland pippin, John

apple, Kentish pippin, nonpareil, Norfolk beaufin, Wheeler’s russet.

Chestnuts; oranges. _Pears_—Bergamot, Bugi, Charmontelle, St. Martial,

winter Bon Chrétien. Strawberries (forced).

COOKERY FOR MARCH.

SOUPS.

EEL SOUP.—Take two pounds of eels, a crust of bread, six blades of mace,

two onions, a few whole peppercorns, a faggot of herbs, and two quarts

of water; boil till half the liquor is wasted, strain, and serve with

toasted bread.

GIBLET SOUP.—Take three sets of giblets, stew them with two pounds of

gravy beef, a faggot of herbs, two onions, and pepper and salt to season;

add six pints of water, and let it simmer till the gizzards (which must

be divided) are perfectly tender. Skim it clean, add mushroom ketchup to

flavour, and three-quarters of an ounce of butter rolled in flour; let it

boil ten minutes, strain, and serve with the giblets.

VEAL BROTH.—Stew a knuckle of veal in a gallon of water, add salt, two

blades of mace, and three ounces of rice, and let it stew till reduced to

two quarts. Serve with toasted bread.

FISH.

CRAB, MINCED.—Remove the meat, mince small and place in a saucepan with

a wine-glassful of white wine, pepper and salt, nutmeg, cayenne pepper,

and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Let it stew for ten minutes; melt a

piece of butter the size of a hen’s egg, with an anchovy and the yolks of

two eggs; beat up and mix well, stir in with the crab, and add sufficient

stale bread crumbs to thicken. Garnish with thin toast cut with a pastry

leaf-cutter, or with the claws, and parsley. Lobster may be dressed in

the same manner.

LOBSTER CUTLETS.—Choose a large lobster and two small ones, reserve a

piece of the coral, pick and pound the remainder with a little fresh

butter, a little salt, red and white pepper, a blade or two of mace,

a little nutmeg, and a dessert-spoonful of anchovy sauce: when well

pounded, add the yolks of two eggs and the white of one; lay the mixture

on a paste-board, roll it out with a little flour until an inch thick,

cut into small squares, do them over with egg, dip in bread crumbs, and

fry a light brown in lard. Mix the coral remaining with a little melted

butter and anchovy sauce, pour it into the middle of the dish with the

cutlets arranged round, cut the horns of the lobster into pieces an inch

and a half long, place them between each cutlet and serve hot. A very

pretty way to dress them is to form into the shape of lamb cutlets,

placing a piece of the horn in the centre of the extremity to resemble

the bone.

OYSTERS, TO FRY.—Take a quarter of a hundred of large oysters; beat

the yolks of two eggs, a blade of mace pounded, a little nutmeg, a

table-spoonful of flour, and a little salt, mix well; dip the oysters in

the mixture, and fry a light brown in lard.

PIKE, TO STEW.—Take stale bread crumbs, finely chopped sweet herbs and

parsley, a little lemon-peel, three ounces of butter, mixed up with the

yolks of two eggs, and seasoned with nutmeg, cayenne, common pepper,

and salt, and form into a pudding to stuff the fish with. A few pickled

or fresh oysters chopped fine and mixed with it improve the flavour

considerably. Clean and wash the fish, stuff with the pudding, fix the

tail in the mouth, and stew gently in the same manner as for carp (p.

268), and garnish with sliced lemon.

SALMON, TO BROIL.—Cut the fish in slices an inch thick, season with

cayenne and common pepper, a little nutmeg and salt, roll well in

buttered white paper, and broil over a _slow_ fire; serve in the paper

with plain melted butter, anchovy, lobster, or shrimp sauce.

SOLES, TO BOIL.—Skin them, wash well and boil in common spring water,

with a little salt, and three table-spoonfuls of vinegar, taking care

to remove the scum as it rises. Serve with lobster, shrimp, or anchovy

sauce, or strew scraped horse-radish over them.

POULTRY, GAME, ETC.

FOWLS, TO ROAST.—Singe, dust with flour, put down before a good fire, and

baste well. Make a gravy of the necks and gizzards, and when strained add

a tea-spoonful of browning (page 254). Take up the fowls, pour the gravy

into a dish, frost them and send to table hot.

PIGEONS COMPOTE.—Truss six pigeons as if for boiling; grate the crumb of

a penny loaf; scrape a pound of fat bacon; chop parsley, thyme, an onion

or two shalots, and some lemon-peel, fine; grate some nutmeg, season

with pepper and salt, and mix up with two eggs. Put this forcemeat into

the craws of the pigeons, lard the breasts, and fry them brown. Place

in a stewpan with some beef stock (page 253), stew three-quarters of an

hour, thicken with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and dish up with

forcemeat balls round the dish; strain the gravy over the pigeons and

serve hot.

SNIPES, TO ROAST.—Do not draw them; spit on a small bird-spit, flour, and

baste them well with butter; have ready a slice of toasted bread, which

lay in a dish and set under the birds while cooking. When done, take them

up, place on the toast, put some good gravy in the dish, and garnish with

lemon.

SNIPE RAGOUT.—Slit the birds down the back, but do not remove the

insides; toss them up with a little melted bacon fat, season with pepper

and salt, and a little mushroom ketchup. When done, add some lemon-juice

and serve up. Garnish with toast and lemon sliced.

MEAT.

BEEF COLLOPS.—Cut the fillet from the under part of a rump of beef into

thin slices, and fry until three parts done; add slices of pickled

cucumbers, a few oysters, two table-spoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, and

stew till tender in beef stock, then serve.

BOLOGNA SAUSAGES.—Take equal quantities of bacon, fat and lean, beef,

veal, pork, and beef suet; chop them small, season with pepper, salt,

&c., sweet herbs, and sage rubbed fine. Have a well-washed intestine,

fill, and prick it; boil gently for an hour, and lay on straw to dry.

They may be smoked the same as hams.

FRICADEL (a Dutch dish).—Take two and a half pounds of veal, and a

quarter of a pound of suet, chop both fine, as if for sausage meat; three

eggs beaten well, half a nutmeg, and pepper and salt to taste. Soak a

slice of bread in boiling milk, and mix the whole well together with a

little flour. Bake for two hours and a half in a moderate oven, or until

it is a pale brown, but it should not have a hard crust on the top.

HAMS, TONGUES, ETC., GLAZING FOR.—Boil a shin of beef twelve hours in

eight or ten quarts of water; draw the gravy from a knuckle of veal in

the same manner; put the same herbs and spices as if for soup, and add

the whole to the shin of beef. It must be boiled till reduced to a quart.

It will keep good for a year; and when wanted for use, warm a little, and

spread over the ham, tongue, &c., with a feather.

LIVER, TO ROAST.—Take a calf’s or lamb’s liver, lard it, and fasten on a

spit; baste with butter. Make some melted butter, add a table-spoonful of

mushroom or walnut ketchup, and a little vinegar, and serve hot over the

liver. Garnish with curled bacon.

OXFORD HASH.—Cut thin slices of cold mutton, fat and lean, in pieces

about the size of a penny; flour well. Boil an onion in a little water,

add a tea-cupful of beef stock or gravy, season with pepper, salt,

and mace; make it hot, but do not let it boil, then add four or five

table-spoonfuls of piccalilli, and a little red wine, and serve hot with

toasted bread.

STRASBURG POTTED MEAT.—Take a pound and a half of the rump of beef, cut

into dice, and put it in an earthen jar, with a quarter of a pound of

butter at the bottom, tie the jar close up with paper, and set over a

pot to boil; when nearly done, add cloves, mace, allspice, nutmeg, salt,

and cayenne pepper to taste; then boil till tender, and let it get cold.

Pound the meat, with four anchovies washed and boned, add a quarter of

a pound of oiled butter, work it well together with the gravy, warm a

little, and add cochineal to colour. Then press into small pots, and pour

melted mutton suet over the top of each.

VEAL OLIVES.—Take a dozen veal collops cut thin, and longer than broad,

egg them, and cover with forcemeat; roll up tight and bake. Make a ragout

of oysters and sweetbreads cut in dice, with mushroom ketchup to flavour.

Lay the olives in the dish, pour the ragout over, and serve hot with

forcemeat balls round.

VEGETABLES.

OBSERVATIONS ON THE DRESSING OF VEGETABLES.—The great art in boiling

greens is to preserve their green colour and sweetness. This can only

be done by obtaining those that are quite fresh, picking and washing

them carefully in salt and water, to free them from insects, and boiling

them in a considerable quantity of water, in a tin or copper pan, by

themselves. When they are dressed with meat, or in an iron pot, the

colour is generally spoiled, except carrots, which should be boiled with

the meat.

All vegetables should be drained as soon as they are boiled enough,

otherwise, from neglect of that precaution, and over-boiling, they lose

their crispness.

If the water is hard in which they are to be dressed, add a tea-spoonful

of potash; and any scum which may arise during the process should be

carefully removed, and the lid of the saucepan taken off when they boil,

observing that when they sink to the bottom, they are done enough.

CELERY, WITH CREAM.—Take the white part of celery, wash clean, cut three

inches long, boil it tender, and strain it off; then beat up the yolks of

four eggs, strain them into half a pint of cream, add a little salt and

nutmeg. Put all into a tossing-pan, set it over a stove until it boils,

and is of a proper thickness, then send to table with toasted bread

underneath.

PARSNIPS, TO BOIL.—1. When they are soft, take them up, scrape the dust

off carefully; then scrape them all fine, lay in a saucepan, with milk,

and let them simmer till thick; then add a piece of butter, and salt, and

serve. 2. When boiled and scraped, serve whole in a dish, with melted

butter in a sauce tureen.

POTATO FRITTERS.—Boil and beat half a dozen potatoes, mix with four

beaten eggs, about a gill of cream, some salt and nutmeg, a little sugar,

some fresh butter oiled, and a table-spoonful of spirit; beat well

together, drop in the boiling dripping, fry a light brown, dish hot, and

strew sugar over them.

VEGETABLE PUDDING.—Take six ounces each of raw scraped carrot, finely

mashed potatoes, currants, flour, and beef suet; mix well without any

liquid if for boiling, but add an egg and a little milk if for baking.

PASTRY, ETC.

SHREWSBURY CAKES.—Take half a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of

sugar, the same of butter, and enough of an egg well beaten to wet it;

grate in some nutmeg, mix well, roll thin, cut with a pastry-cutter or a

wine-glass, and bake on buttered paper.

NORFOLK BISCUITS.—Take three-quarters of a pound of butter, three pounds

and a half of flour, and a quarter of a pint of yeast. Melt the butter

with water, knead well till stiff, and bake on buttered paper for twenty

minutes. An ounce for each biscuit.

RAMAKINS.—Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire and the same of

Gloucester cheese, add a quarter of a pound of butter, then beat all in a

mortar with the yolks of four eggs and the inside of a small French roll

boiled in cream or milk.

FOOD FOR APRIL.

MEAT.—Beef, grass-lamb, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

FISH.—Brill, carp, chub, cockles, cod, conger-eels, _crabs_, dabbs, dory,

eels, flounders, halibut, herrings, ling, _lobsters_, mackerel, mullets,

mussels, oysters, perch, pike, _prawns_, plaice, _salmon_, shrimps,

_skate_, smelts, soles, sturgeon, _tench_, trout, turbot, whitings.

POULTRY AND GAME.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets,

pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey-poults, wood-pigeons.

VEGETABLES.—Asparagus, beans, brocoli, chervil, coleworts, cucumbers,

endive, fennel, herbs of all sorts, lettuce, onions, parsley, parsnips,

peas, purslane, radishes, sea-kale, sorrel, spinach, small salad,

tarragon, turnip-radishes, turnip-tops, and rhubarb.

FRUIT.—_Apples_—Golden russet, John apple, nonpareil, Wheeler’s russet;

nuts; oranges. _Pears_—Bergamot, Bon Chrétien, Bugi; Carmelite,

francreal, St. Martial. A few strawberries; walnuts. _Forced_—Apricots,

cherries, and strawberries.

COOKERY FOR APRIL.

SOUPS.

ITALIAN PASTE.—Put on a quart of stock (p. 253), and when it boils add

two ounces of Italian paste in small stars, rings, &c.; boil for twenty

minutes, or rather longer, and serve hot.

OYSTER SAUCE.—Open the oysters carefully, so as to preserve their liquor;

beard and remove the tough parts, which stew in the liquor, adding

sufficient water or veal broth to make the proper quantity of sauce, and

allow for evaporation of about one-half; when done, strain it off, and

put it in a saucepan with the oysters, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce,

and a good-sized piece of butter rolled in flour; keep turning it round

to prevent the butter from curdling.

RICE.—Wash two ounces of the best Patna rice, strain off the water, put

the rice with a quart of stock into a stewpan, simmer for half an hour,

or until the rice is tender, and serve.

SPANISH PEA.—Lay a quart of Spanish peas in water all night; then add

them to a gallon of water, with a clove of garlic, a quart of fine sweet

oil, and pepper and salt to season; cover the pan close, boil until the

peas are soft, and then beat in the yolk of an egg mixed with vinegar to

taste; poach some eggs, lay them on the dish with sippets, pour the soup

on, and serve hot.

VERMICELLI.—Put on a quart of veal stock (p. 253), and when it boils

add two ounces of vermicelli; simmer gently for half an hour, stirring

frequently.

FISH.

EEL PIE.—Clean a pound or more of eels, cut them in lengths of two and

three inches, season with pepper and salt, and put them in a dish with

some lumps of butter, and a wine-glassful of water; cover with a light

paste, and bake. Some add a couple of bay-leaves and a faggot of herbs,

with a few cloves and an onion, and veal stock thickened with flour,

instead of water. Cream added after the pie is done, instead of butter

before, also improves it vastly.

EELS, SPITCHCOCK.—Take two large eels, split and clean well, but leave

the skin on; cut in pieces three inches long, wipe them very dry, egg

over both sides, and dip in a mixture of chopped parsley, pepper, salt,

sage, and mace. Broil a light brown, and serve with anchovy and butter

sauce.

PRAWN JELLY.—Put some savoury fish-jelly into the bottom of a deep mould;

when cold, lay pickled prawns on it, and all round the sides; pour in a

little more jelly, and when cold, put on a second layer, repeating until

the mould is filled. Turn the jelly out when cold, and it will look

beautiful, especially for a supper. Garnish with parsley.

SAVOURY FISH-JELLY.—Put four pounds of skate into three quarts of water,

with a calf’s foot, or cow heel, a stick of horse-radish cut fine, an

onion, three blades of mace, some white pepper, a piece of lemon-peel,

and a slice of lean bacon. Stew it to a jelly, and strain. When cold,

remove every particle of fat, take it up from the sediment, and boil with

a wine-glassful of white wine, the whites of four or five eggs, and a

slice of lemon. Boil without stirring; after a short time set aside for

half an hour, strain through a jelly-bag, and use as required.

SALMON, COLLARED.—Split enough of the fish to make a handsome roll, wash,

and wipe it well; rub the inside and outside well with powdered white

pepper, mace, salt, and Jamaica pepper, carefully mixed; roll it tight,

and bind it up; put as much water, and one-third of vinegar, as will

cover it, add salt, long pepper, allspice, and two bay-leaves; cover it

close, and simmer till done enough. Drain and boil the liquid quickly,

and pour it over the fish when cold; serve with fennel.

SKATE, TO BOIL.—The fish having been previously skinned, the flesh cut

into slips about an inch wide, and then immersed in salt and water for

four or five hours, the pieces should be rolled, tied with a piece of

string, and boiled for about twenty minutes. The thinner parts not

requiring so long should not be put in until a short time after the water

boils. Anchovy, and butter sauce, or crab sauce, should be served with it.

TENCH, TO FRY.—Open them by the belly, cut off the fins close; scale

well, dry in flour, and fry a light brown. Serve with parsley and butter,

or any fish-sauce and butter.

POULTRY.

DUCKLINGS, TO ROAST.—Proceed the same as for ducks (p. 255), they must

not, however, be too much done, otherwise the flesh will have a rank

taste; twenty minutes is generally sufficient. Serve hot, with a good

gravy and mustard.

GREEN GOOSE, TO ROAST.—Put a lump of butter the size of an orange into

the goose, spit, and lay it down to roast; singe, dredge with flour, and

baste well with butter, and when done enough dredge again, and baste till

a fine froth rises on it, and it becomes a nice brown. Gooseberry sauce

is the correct one; but apple, with a little ginger and sorrel juice,

answers very well.

MEAT.

BEEF SANDERS.—Mince cold beef small with onion; add pepper, salt, and

a little gravy; put it into a pie-dish, or scallop shells, until about

three parts full, then fill up with mashed potatoes, baked in an oven or

before the fire until done a light brown. Mutton may be cooked the same

way.

BEEF MARROW-BONES.—Cover the ends with a piece of flour-and-water paste,

and boil. Serve the bones hot in dry toast.

CALF’S HEAD FRICASSEED.—Clean and half-boil part of a head; cut the

meat into small bits, put into a stewpan, with a little gravy made of

the bones, some of the water it was boiled in, a faggot of sweet herbs,

an onion, and a blade of mace. Take a sweetbread, boil tender, and cut

small; season with pepper, nutmeg, and salt, rub down some flour and

butter, and boil all together with the head. Remove the herbs and onion;

just before dishing stir in two or three table-spoonfuls of cream, and

serve hot, garnishing with forcemeat balls and rolled bacon.

MUTTON STEAKS, À LA MAINTENON.—Half-fry, then strew stale bread crumbs,

sweet herbs, and pepper and salt over them; fold while hot in buttered

papers, and finish on a gridiron.

VEAL CAKE.—Boil six eggs hard, cut in halves, and lay some of the pieces

at the bottom of an earthen pot, then shake in chopped parsley, some

slices of veal and ham about two inches square, and then eggs again,

repeating the parsley and seasoning after each layer until the pot is

full. Pour in sufficient water to cover it, lay about an ounce of butter

on the top, tie it over with thick paper doubled, and bake about an hour.

Then press close together with a spoon, and let it stand till cold. If

put into a mould instead of the pot, it forms a handsome supper-dish.

ASPARAGUS, TO BOIL.—Scrape the stalks carefully till they look white, cut

the ends even, tie them in separate bundles, and lay in boiling water,

with a little salt; boil briskly, and when they are tender, take them up,

for if boiled too much they lose both flavour and colour. Dip a round of

toasted bread in the liquor the asparagus was boiled in, and lay it on

the dish. Then pour melted butter over the toast, and lay the asparagus

round the dish, the tops inward. Serve with melted butter in a sauce

tureen.

PEAS, TO BOIL.—Shell, but do not wash them, boil in plenty of water, and

skim well as soon as they boil. Put in some salt and mint tops, and do

not overboil them, or they will be tasteless and of a bad colour. When

done, put in a dish with a lump or two of cold butter, and serve hot.

SEA-KALE.—Boil till very white, and serve on toast like asparagus.

SPINACH, TO BOIL.—Carefully pick, wash, and put into a saucepan that will

just hold it; sprinkle with salt, and cover close. Set the pan on the

fire, and shake frequently; when done, beat it well with a bit of butter,

squeeze quite dry between two plates, or press into a mould, and serve

with plain melted butter in a tureen.

SPINACH, TO STEW.—Squeeze quite dry, put into a stewpan without water,

with a spoonful of gravy, a lump of butter, salt, and pepper, and simmer

till ready. If a table-spoonful of cream is added, the flavour is greatly

improved.

PASTRY, ETC.

APPLE FOOL.—Stew a dozen apples in a stone jar on a stove, or a saucepan

of water over the fire, adding in the former case two table-spoonfuls of

water to the fruit. When soft, peel, and pulp through a cullender; boil

some new milk, add a well-beaten egg, and let it cool, then mix gradually

with the pulp, and sweeten with fine moist sugar.

DEVONSHIRE JUNKET.—To one quart of new milk, made lukewarm, add a

table-spoonful or more of sugar, a wine-glassful of French brandy, four

drops of essence of bitter almonds or lemon-peel, a little nutmeg, and

four tea-spoonfuls of essence of rennet. Mix well, put into a glass dish,

lay aside until set, and cover the surface with clotted cream.

HAMPSHIRE CHEESE SNAPS.—Take a new loaf, steaming hot, pull in halves,

dig out pieces about the size of a walnut with a fork, put them on a

dish, and set in a quick oven to brown lightly. Stale bread can be used,

but does not answer so well. This forms a pretty supper-dish, when heaped

in a cake basket, and can be eaten with wine.

MARROW PUDDING.—Grate a penny loaf into crumbs, pour on it a pint of

boiling cream. Cut very thin a pound of beef marrow, beat four eggs well,

add a wine-glassful of brandy, with sugar and nutmeg to taste. Mix all

well together, and either boil or bake it for three-quarters of an hour.

Cut two ounces of candied citron very thin, and when served up, stick the

pieces all over it.

If baked, place a puff-paste round the edge of a shallow dish, and pour

the pudding in.

SOMERSETSHIRE FIRMITY.—Boil a quart of fine wheat, and add by degrees two

quarts of new milk. Carefully pick and wash four ounces of currants, stir

them in the jelly, and boil till done. Beat the yolks of three eggs and a

little nutmeg, with three table-spoonfuls of milk, add to the wheat, and

stir well while over the fire. Sweeten and serve in a deep dish, either

warm or cold.

STAFFORDSHIRE SYLLABUB.—Put a pint of cider into a bowl, with a

wine-glassful of brandy, some sugar and nutmeg. Pour a quart of new warm

milk into it from a jug held up high, and moved in a circular direction.

Grate nutmeg on the top, or strew with nonpareil comfits.

MISCELLANEOUS.

LOBSTER SALAD.—Take three yolks of hard eggs, two yolks of raw eggs,

two tea-spoonfuls of mustard, a little salt and cayenne pepper, four

table-spoonfuls of salad oil, one and a half table-spoonful of tarragon

vinegar, and one of essence of anchovies; mix well, and add three

table-spoonfuls of cream. Cut two large lobsters up small, and mix with

finely cut salad, cucumber, hot pickles, and beet-root. Pour the mixture

given above over the salad, put in a dish, not a bowl, and garnish with

hard boiled eggs cut in thin slices.

MACCARONI.—Put as much of the pipe to soak in cold water as you think

proper; then boil it in milk and water till quite tender, with a small

onion; when done, strain off the milk, and add a piece of butter the size

of a walnut, a little cream, and some nutmeg; some persons, however,

prefer cayenne and a little salt to the nutmeg. Mix well together, and

put it into a dish, then cover with _grated_ cheese—Parmesan or Cheshire;

put it in the oven or before the fire to be lightly browned, and serve

hot with mustard.

MOCK BRAWNS.—Put four feet, two ears, and two chaps of a pig into two

quarts of water, and let it boil for several hours, till the bones can

be picked from the meat, then pour it into a basin, skim off the fat,

and take away all the bones; put it again into a saucepan with a little

chopped parsley and sweet herbs dried and rubbed small, cayenne pepper,

salt, and pounded mace, and let it boil for ten minutes; dip a mould into

cold water, pour in the mixture, let it get cool, turn out, and garnish

with parsley and barberries, or slices of lemon.

POTTED FISH.

Get herrings enough to fill up your dish,

And into the stomach of each little fish

A peppercorn put; this will give it a flavour,

Which, in epicure’s taste, is sure to find favour.

FOOD FOR MAY.

MEAT.—Beef, grass-lamb, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

FISH.—Brill, carp, chub, cod, conger-eels, _crabs_, cray-fish, dabbs,

dace, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddock, halibut, herring, ling,

_lobsters_, mackerel, mullet, perch, pike, place, _prawns_, _salmon_,

shrimps, _skate_, smelts, soles, sturgeon, tench, trout, turbot, whitings.

POULTRY AND GAME.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets,

pigeons, pullets, rabbits, wood-pigeons.

VEGETABLES.—Angelica, artichoke, asparagus, balm, kidney-beans, cabbage,

carrots, cauliflowers, chervil, cucumbers, fennel, herbs of all sorts,

lettuce, mint, onions, peas, parsley, new potatoes, purslane, radishes,

rhubarb, salad of all sorts, sea-kale, sorrel, spinach, thyme, turnips.

FRUIT.—_Apples_—John apple, golden russet, winter russet. May-Duke

cherries; currants; gooseberries; melons. _Pears_—L’Amozette, winter

green. Scarlet strawberries. _Forced_—Apricots, cherries, nutmeg-peaches,

and strawberries.

COOKERY FOR MAY.

SOUPS.

ASPARAGUS.—Cut half a pound of fat bacon into thin slices, place at the

bottom of a stewpan, then add five pounds of lean beef cut into dice, and

rolled in flour; cover the pan close, stirring occasionally until the

gravy is drawn, then add two quarts of water, and half a pint of ale.

Cover, stew gently for an hour, with some whole pepper and salt. Strain

off the liquor, and skim off the fat. Add some spinach, cabbage-lettuce,

white beet leaves, sorrel, a little mint, and powdered sweet marjoram;

let these boil up in the liquor, then put in the green tops of asparagus

cut small, boil till all is tender, and serve hot.

GREEN PEA.—Cut a knuckle of veal, and a pound of lean ham into thin

slices; lay the ham at the bottom of a stewpan; then the veal; cut six

small onions into slices, and put in two turnips, two carrots, a head

of celery cut small, a faggot of sweet herbs, four cloves, and four

blades of mace. Put a little water at the bottom, cover the pot close,

stirring occasionally till the gravy is drawn; then add six quarts of

boiling water, stew gently for four hours, and skim well. Take two quarts

of green peas, stew in some of the broth till tender, strain, put in a

marble mortar, and beat well, or mash with the spoon against the sides of

the stewpan. Rub the peas through a hair sieve, or tamis, till thoroughly

pulped, then put the soup into a clean pot, with a tea-cupful of spinach

juice, and boil for fifteen minutes; season with pepper, salt, and a

table-spoonful of brown sugar. If the soup is not thick enough, boil

the crumb of a French roll in a little of the soup, and rub through the

tamis; then put in the soup and boil. Serve hot in the tureen, with dice

of bread toasted very hard. (The celery must be omitted, until July,

using a table-spoonful of the seeds instead.)

ITALIAN TURNIP.—Cut turnips in different shapes, colour them with butter

in a stewpan, and two table-spoonfuls of sweet oil; add slices of

chervil, and sea-kale; mix two table-spoonfuls of flour with two quarts

of the savoury fish-jelly, (p. 263), and the vegetables, then boil, and

serve hot, with dice of bread fried in butter, and dried on a cloth.

FISH.

CRABS, DRESSED.—Choose a good heavy crab, boil for about half an hour

in salt and water, remove the pot, let the crab get cold; take off the

great shell without breaking it, extract the fish from the body and

claws, and mince it well. Put some floured butter in a stewpan with six

or eight small mushrooms, parsley, and green asparagus tops shred fine,

fry a little, and put in the minced fish with half a wine-glass of white

wine and pepper, salt and sweet herbs to season; stew gently for fifteen

minutes, thicken with flour, and flavour with lemon-juice. Fill the

shell with this mixture, having previously removed the herbs, set in a

baking-pan, or dish, strew stale bread crumbs over the top, set in an

oven to brown, and then serve hot. Garnish with lemon, and parsley.

JOHN DORY CUTLETS, TO FRY.—Cut the flesh off from the bones in cutlets

about three inches broad, egg and dip in bread crumbs, then fry a light

brown in plenty of dripping, or lard. Garnish with fried parsley, and

serve with anchovy butter sauce.

TROUT, BOILED.—Clean, scale well, and boil whole in cold water, allowing

it to boil gradually; vinegar and horse-radish put in the water improve

the flavour. When done, carefully drain off the water so as not to break

the skin, and serve with lobster, shrimp, or anchovy butter sauce.

CARP, TO STEW.—Clean well, and cut off the fins; then flour, and fry

over a brisk fire until about three parts dressed; remove, and place in

a stewpan, with equal parts of beef gravy and water, a table-spoonful of

mushroom ketchup, a slice of lemon, a few pickled mushrooms, a faggot

of sweet herbs, and a glass of red wine; season with nutmeg, pepper, or

cayenne, and mace. Fry a few onions brown in the fat the fish was fried

in, add these, butter and all, to the fish; cover and stew gently for

about an hour. Take out the fish, pour the gravy over, and garnish with

slices of lemon, and fried bread cut with pastry-cutters. If the fish is

suspected to have a muddy flavour, sew up a piece of bread in its belly.

WHITING, TO BOIL.—Proceed the same as for haddock.

WHITING, TO FRY.—Fix the tail in the mouth by means of a small skewer, or

by winding a piece of string round the head of the fish; dry well with a

cloth, egg, and sprinkle with bread crumbs; then place it on its belly

in the frying-pan, with plenty of lard or dripping, fry a light brown,

and garnish with fried parsley; place on a napkin, and serve with melted

butter.

POULTRY, ETC.

FOWL, COLD, TO DRESS.—Take the remains of a cold fowl, remove the skin,

then the bones, leaving the flesh in as large pieces as possible; dredge

with flour, and fry a light brown in butter: toss it up in a good gravy

well seasoned, thicken with butter rolled in flour, flavour with lemon,

and serve hot with sippets.

PIGEON IN SAVOURY JELLY.—Bone a pigeon, remove the head and feet, stuff

with sausage meat, and roast. Take a pound of scrag of veal, a slice of

ham, three cloves, a little nutmeg, a faggot of sweet herbs, a carrot,

two shalots, two bay-leaves, a pint of beef broth, (p. 254), and an ounce

of “Nelson’s Gelatine;” stew gently till it will jelly, pass through a

fine sieve, then through a bag, add lemon-juice, and pour a little into a

mould previously dipped in cold water. When it is set, lay in the pigeon

with the breast down, fill up the mould with the jelly, and when cold,

turn out. Garnish with parsley.

RABBITS, PULLED.—Half-boil the rabbits, with an onion, some whole pepper,

a faggot of sweet herbs, and a piece of lemon-peel; pull the flesh into

flakes, add a little of the liquor to it, a piece of butter rolled in

flour, pepper, salt, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and the liver boiled and

bruised; boil well, stirring occasionally, add a table-spoonful of

mushroom ketchup, and serve hot.

VEGETABLES.

ARTICHOKES, TO FRICASSEE.—Take artichoke bottoms, put into a mixture of

fresh butter and cream, melted, shake over the fire till quite hot, and

dish up.

CAULIFLOWERS, TO BOIL.—Cut off the green leaves, wash in salt and water

to remove caterpillars, &c., then soak for an hour in cold water, and

boil in milk and water, skimming the pot frequently to prevent the flower

getting dirty. When the stalks are tender, remove carefully, and put into

a cullender to drain. They should be served very white, and not boiled

too much.

POTATOES, NEW, TO DRESS.—Wash well, rub off the skin with a cloth, and

dry. Boil until done, then put into a vegetable dish with a lump of salt

butter; stir them up, and send to table.

SALADS should be very fresh, carefully washed, picked, and dried in

a clean cloth, cut up separately, well mixed, and put into a bowl

just before using. The salad mixture should be placed at the bottom

of the bowl, and the salad on top, for if mixed, the vegetables lose

that crispness which is so delicious. Slices of beet, eggs, or boiled

potatoes, are placed on top to garnish.

TURNIP-TOPS, TO BOIL.—Wash well, boil in three waters with salt, drain

in a cullender, and chop up fine with pepper, salt, and butter. Put in a

jelly-mould, turn out, and send hot to table.

POTATO SALAD.—Take some cold potatoes, and cut into slices a quarter of

an inch thick; cut these into various shapes with tin pastry-cutters, mix

with some flakes of boiled cod, in a basin, and pour over them a thick

salad mixture; let this remain for an hour or two, then form into a heap,

pour over the sauce, and garnish with slices of beef cut in shapes.

MEAT.

CALF’S HEAD CHEESE.—Boil the head until the bones will come out, then

put the head, tongue, and brains into a mould with spices and parsley

chopped fine, until the mould is quite full, put a plate and a weight

over it, and when cold, turn out. Serve with parsley, and slices of

rolled ham, placed round the dish.

SPICED BEEF.—Sprinkle a piece of beef with common salt, and let it hang a

day. Take a pound of bay salt, half a pound of brown sugar, a quarter of

a pound of mace, of cloves, allspice, and saltpetre, each half an ounce,

and an ounce of pepper, pound all together, and rub well into the beef

every day, and turning it as well for four days. When cooking, boil very

slowly.

PASTRY.

APPLE JELLY—MOULD.—Pare, core, and stew six or eight apples with

lemon-peel, sugar, and sufficient water to cover them, add half an ounce

of “Nelson’s Gelatine,” dip a mould in cold water, pour in, and when

cold, turn it out.

GOOSEBERRY FOOL.—Scald a quart of berries, and pass them through a sieve,

make the pulp sweet, and let it stand to cool; beat up the yolks of three

eggs, strain them to a quart of milk, set it over a clear fire, and keep

stirring till it boils; remove, stir till cold, and then add the fruit to

it gradually.

GOOSEBERRY PUDDING WITH THE WOOD IN IT.—Make a paste of flour, chopped

beef suet, salt, and water; knead, roll it out thin, sheet a basin with

it, and fill with young gooseberries, cover with paste, and boil. When

done, cut a piece out of the top, mix sifted sugar, and a lump of butter,

or some cream with the fruit, and a little grated nutmeg. The name is

derived from the gooseberries tasting a little woody; the consequence of

being too young.

RHUBARB FOOL.—Scald a quart or more of rhubarb, nicely peeled, and cut

into pieces an inch long, pulp through a sieve, sweeten, and let it stand

to cool. Put a pint of cream, or new milk, into a stewpan with a stick

of cinnamon, a small piece of lemon-peel, a few cloves, coriander seeds,

and sugar to taste; boil ten minutes. Beat up the yolks of four eggs, and

a little flour, stir into the cream, set over the fire till it boils,

stirring all the time; remove, and let it stand till cold. Mix the fruit

and cream together, and add a little grated nutmeg.

SODA CAKE.—Take a pound of flour, of butter and brown sugar, each a

quarter of a pound, half a pound of currants, two ounces of candied

lemon-peel, a tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda, and a pint and a half of

milk. Mix well, and bake for an hour in a mould. It is better when kept

for a few days.

SPANISH FRITTERS.—Cut the crumb of a French roll into square lengths,

half an inch thick; mix nutmeg, powdered cinnamon, sugar, and an egg,

together. Soak the roll in the mixture, and fry a nice brown. Serve with

wine sauce.

VICTORIA SANDWICHES.—Cut sponge-cake into slices a quarter of an inch

thick, spread some apricot jam, or other preserve, on the top of one

slice, cover with another, dress down gently, and cut into large

diamonds; cover with pink icing, and put in an oven to set.

PLAIN PUDDING.—Weigh three-quarters of a pound of any old scraps of

bread, either crust or crumb, cut them small, and pour on them a pint

and a half of boiling water to soak them well. Let it stand until the

water is cool, then press it out, and mash the bread smooth with the back

of a spoon. Add to it a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, moist sugar to

sweeten, three-quarters of a pound of picked and cleaned currants. Mix

well, and lay in a pan well buttered; flatten it down with a spoon, lay

some pieces of butter on the top, and bake in a moderate oven. Serve hot.

CABINET PUDDING.—Over six sponge cakes pour sufficient sherry, or white

wine, to soak them thoroughly. Beat up six new-laid eggs with a quart

of new milk, and a little nutmeg, and sweeten with white sugar. Put the

cakes into the custard without beating them together, and turn the whole

into a mould previously buttered; tie a paper over the top, and steam the

pudding for an hour. _For Sauce to the Pudding._—Beat up the yolks of two

eggs, two table-spoonfuls of pounded white sugar, and two wine-glassfuls

of white wine; mix well together, simmer gently, stirring all the time,

and serve hot. This, also, makes a delicious sweet, which may be eaten

when cold, like custard.

A BOILED BATTER PUDDING.—Take two eggs, beat well, two table-spoonfuls of

flour, and enough milk to make a batter. Serve hot, with wine sauce.

SEA COOKERY.

FIRST-WATCH STEW.—Cut pieces of salt beef and pork into dice, put them

into a stewpan with six whole peppercorns, two blades of mace, a few

cloves, a tea-spoonful of celery seeds, and a faggot of dried sweet

herbs; cover with water, and stew gently for an hour; then add fragments

of carrots, turnips, parsley, or any other vegetables at hand, with two

sliced onions, and some vinegar to flavour; thicken with flour, or rice,

remove the herbs, and pour into the dish with toasted bread, or freshly

baked biscuit broken small, and serve hot. When they can be procured, a

few potatoes improve it very much.

SEA PIE.—Make a thick pudding crust, line a dish with it, or, what is

better, a cake tin; put a layer of sliced onions, then a layer of salt

beef cut in slices, a layer of sliced potatoes, a layer of pork, and

another of onions, strew pepper over all, cover with a crust, and tie

down tightly with a cloth previously dipped in boiling water and floured.

Boil for two hours, and serve hot in a dish.

FOOD FOR JUNE.

MEAT.—Beef, _grass-lamb_, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, buck-venison.

FISH.—Carp, cod, conger-eels, _crabs_, cray-fish, dabbs, dace, dory,

eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, herrings, ling, _lobsters_, mackerel,

mullet, perch, pike, plaice, _prawns_, _salmon_, _salmon-trout_, _skate_,

smelts, soles, sturgeon, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whitings.

POULTRY AND GAME.—Chickens, ducklings, fowls, green geese, leverets,

pigeons, plovers, pullets, rabbits, turkey-poults, wheat-ears,

wood-pigeons.

VEGETABLES.—Angelica, artichoke, asparagus, beans (French, kidney, and

Windsor), white beet, cabbage, carrots, cauliflowers, chervil, cucumbers,

endive, herbs of all sorts, leeks, lettuce, onions, parsley, peas,

potatoes, purslane, radishes, salad of all sorts, spinach, turnips,

vegetable marrow.

FOR DRYING.—Burnet, mint, tarragon, orange-thyme.

FOR PICKLING.—Garlic.

FRUIT.—_Apples_—John apple, stone pippin, golden russet. Apricots.

_Cherries_—Duke, bigaroon, black-heart. Currants; gooseberries; melons.

_Pears_—Winter green. Strawberries. _Forced_—Grapes, nectarines, peaches,

pines.

COOKERY FOR JUNE.

SOUPS.

JULIENNE is made the same as _soup santé_, omitting the lettuce and

chervil.

SOUP SANTE, OR GRAVY SOUP.—Shred carrots and turnips small, with celery

heads about two inches long; wash and steam them separately in a little

water till nearly done; when ready, cut the white of the celery small,

and a small quantity of cabbage, chervil, Cos lettuces, endive, and

leeks; put all to boil till quite tender in three quarts of beef stock;

add, if at hand, asparagus tops, green peas, small onions, &c.; and, when

done, serve hot.

SPINACH.—Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two onions, a head of

celery, two carrots, a little thyme and parsley; put all into a stewpan,

with an ounce of butter, and a pint of veal stock, or the liquor in which

meat has been boiled; stew till tender, pulp through a coarse sieve, add

a quart of fresh water, salt and pepper, and boil all together. Make some

small suet dumplings the size of a walnut, put them into the tureen, and

pour the soup on hot.

À LA MUSQUETAIRE.—Take a pint of green peas, and a handful of sorrel,

boil in a pint of beef stock, on a slow fire; add a quart of water, and

boil a neck of mutton in it, which, when done, glaze as a fricandeau, and

serve all together.

FISH.

LOBSTER BALLS.—Take the meat of a lobster, with the coral and spawn,

pound in a mortar, add bread crumbs, about a quarter the proportion of

the lobster, and season with cayenne, white pepper, mace, and salt. Mix

sufficient melted butter with the whole to form into a mass, make into

balls the size of small apples, egg well, dip in bread crumbs, and fry a

pale brown.

PRAWNS AND SHRIMPS, TO BOIL.—Let the water be boiling briskly, with a

handful of salt in it, throw in the prawns or shrimps, and, when they are

done enough, they will float to the surface; remove, place in a cullender

to drain, then throw them into a dry towel, and rub a good quantity of

salt among them whilst hot, then wrap them up in the towel, and keep

until quite cold.

SALMON DRESSED, TO POT.—Take the remains of a dressed salmon, remove the

bones, mash it upon a board, season with a little allspice, pepper, and

salt; then add some thick melted butter, sufficient to form into a paste;

but do not make it too moist; then press into a pot, and pour clarified

butter over the top. If at hand, the coral and spawn of a lobster, or a

few shrimps or prawns, improve it, both in flavour and appearance.

SKATE, TO FRY.—Prepare the fish as directed at p. 263, egg well, dip in

bread crumbs, and fry carefully in plenty of dripping. Garnish with fried

parsley, and serve with crab sauce, anchovy and butter sauce, soy or

ketchup.

WHITEBAIT, TO FRY.—Dry thoroughly, dip in egg, flour well, and dredge

with flour all the time they are frying, until they have a complete

coating over them, taking care to keep them moving, or else they will

stick to each other or adhere to the pan. Serve with a lemon cut in half.

Brown bread and butter rolled, and cold punch, should be partaken of at

the same time.

POULTRY, ETC.

FOWL, CURRIED MALABAR FASHION.—Cut a fowl into small joints, and wash

it well in cold water. Mince an onion or two, put three ounces of

butter in a stewpan, fry the onion a nice brown, then add the meat, a

table-spoonful of flour, the same of curry powder, and simmer for ten

minutes; then add a pint of veal broth or water, and stew for half an

hour, with a stick of cinnamon. Scrape some cocoa-nut into a basin, with

a gill and a half of warm water, press it well with the back of a spoon,

strain through a sieve, and add with two or three bay-leaves five minutes

before serving. Shake the pan once or twice, squeeze half a lemon in, or

add a table-spoonful of vinegar, and serve hot, with the rice separate,

having previously removed the bay-leaves.

BEEF, MUTTON, OR VEAL, MAY BE DRESSED THE SAME.—If a cocoa-nut cannot be

procured, blanch four ounces of sweet almonds, pounded to a paste, add a

gill of water, and rub through a sieve; this is to be added to the curry

in the same manner as the cocoa-nut liquor. A gill of cream or milk, will

answer very well, or a table-spoonful of flour, mixed with two ounces of

butter, may be substituted when the others cannot be obtained.

TURKEY, DUTCH WAY.—Boil, season with salt, pepper, and cloves; add a

quarter of a pound of rice or vermicelli to every quart of broth, and

serve hot, garnishing with toasted bread cut with a pastry-cutter.

VEGETABLES.

BEANS, FRENCH, À LA CRÊME.—String them, cut into slips, and boil in

plenty of water, with salt in it. When done, drain them. Put into a

stewpan with two ounces of fresh butter, the yolks of three eggs,

beaten up in a gill of cream, and set over a slow fire. When hot, add a

table-spoonful of vinegar, and the beans; simmer for five minutes, stir

with a wooden spoon, to prevent burning or curdling, and serve hot.

BEANS, KIDNEY, TO BOIL.—String, slit down the middle, and cut them

across; cover with salt and water, let them remain some time, boil till

tender, and then serve with melted butter.

BEANS, WINDSOR, TO BOIL.—Boil in salt and water till tender, then serve

with parsley and butter.

CHERVIL, BOILED.—Wash, and pick very clean; put a tea-spoonful of salt

into half a pint of boiling water, boil the chervil about ten minutes,

drain on a sieve, and serve with good melted butter.

CUCUMBERS TO STEW.—Slice an equal quantity of cucumbers and onions, and

fry them together in butter, strain on a sieve, put them with a gill

of gravy, two table-spoonfuls of white wine, and a blade of mace, into

a saucepan. Stew five or six minutes, add a piece of butter rolled in

flour, salt, and cayenne pepper. Shake well together until thick enough,

then dish and serve hot.

ONIONS, TO ROAST.—Roast with the skins on; when tender, peel carefully,

and serve with cold butter, and salt.

TURNIPS, TO BOIL AND MASH.—Boil until tender, drain on a sieve, and mash

well, with butter, pepper, and salt. Observe that there are not any

lumps. Serve hot in a vegetable dish, either plain, or previously pressed

into a pudding-mould.

VEGETABLE MARROW, TO DRESS.—1. Peel the same as apples, cut in halves,

and scrape the seeds out of the inside; then boil for about twenty

minutes, with a little salt in the water, and when soft, take them up,

drain on a sieve, and mash up with pepper, salt, and butter or cream. 2.

Peel, cut in halves, remove the seeds, and put into a stewpan with water,

salt, lemon-juice, and a small piece of fat bacon. Stew gently till quite

tender, and serve up with Dutch sauce.

MEAT.

MUTTON, BREAST OF, GRILLED.—Par-boil, score, pepper and salt it well, rub

with the yolk of egg, dip in bread crumbs and chopped parsley, and broil,

or roast it in a Dutch oven. Serve with caper sauce.

SAUSAGES, OXFORD.—Chop a pound and a half of pork, the same of veal,

deprived of skin and tendons, add three-quarters of a pound of beef suet.

Mince and mix well. Steep the crumb of a penny loaf in water, then mix it

with the meat; add sage, salt, pepper, and allspice to taste, roll into

balls, flatten, and fry a light brown.

TRIPE STEWED.—Cut some nice white tripe into slips, put the pieces into

some rich gravy, with a lump of butter the size of a hen’s egg, rolled

in flour; shake until the butter is melted, then add a table-spoonful of

white wine, some chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a few pickled mushrooms,

and a squeeze of lemon; shake all well together, and stew gently till

tender.

SWEETBREADS, LARDED.—Par-boil two sweetbreads; when cold, lard them

down the middle with little bits of bacon, then with small slices of

lemon-peel on either side, and then with little pieces of pickled

cucumber cut very small; stew gently in rich gravy, thickened with flour;

add mushroom ketchup to taste, and a squeeze of lemon.

PASTRY.

APRICOT PUDDING.—Split a dozen large apricots, remove the stones, and

scald till quite soft. Pour a pint of boiling cream upon the grated

crumbs of a penny loaf; when nearly cold, add four ounces of sifted

sugar, the yolks of four well-beaten eggs, and a wine-glassful of white

wine. Pound the fruit in a mortar, with half of their kernels; mix the

fruit and the other ingredients together. Line your dish with paste, put

a layer round the edge, pour in the mixture, and bake for half an hour.

BRENTFORD ROLLS.—Mix with two pounds of flour a little salt, two ounces

of sifted sugar, four ounces of butter, and two eggs beaten with two

table-spoonfuls of yeast, and about a pint of milk. Knead the dough

well, and set it to rise before the fire. Make a dozen rolls, butter tin

plates, and set them before the fire to rise, till they are of a proper

size, then bake for half an hour.

CHESHIRE PUFFS.—Strain some cheese curd from the whey, and beat half a

pint of it fine in a mortar, with a table-spoonful and a half of flour,

the white of one egg, and the yolks of three; add a table-spoonful of

orange-flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and sugar to make it pretty

sweet. Lay a little of this paste in small round cakes, on a tin plate.

If the oven be hot, a quarter of an hour will bake them. Serve with

pudding sauce.

CUMBERLAND PUDDING.—Mix six ounces of grated bread, the same quantity

of well picked and cleaned currants, beef suet finely shred, finely

chopped apples, and lump sugar; add six eggs, half a grated nutmeg,

a pinch of salt, the rind of a lemon minced as fine as possible, a

_large_ table-spoonful of citron, orange, and lemon-peel, cut thin. Mix

thoroughly together, put the whole into a mould, cover close with a

floured cloth, and boil for three hours. Add the juice of half a lemon to

pudding sauce, boil and serve with the pudding.

GERMAN PUFFS.—Mix two table-spoonfuls of fine flour with two well-beaten

eggs, half a pint of cream, or milk, and two ounces of melted butter;

stir all well together, add a little salt and nutmeg, put into tea-cups,

or small tin moulds, half full, and bake for a quarter of an hour in a

quick oven, hot enough to colour them at the top and bottom. Turn them

into a dish, and strew pounded sugar over them. Some like wine sauce with

them.

FOOD FOR JULY.

MEAT.—Beef, _grass-lamb_, mutton, veal, buck-venison.

FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, conger-eels, _crabs_, cray-fish, dabbs,

_dace_, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, herrings, ling,

_lobsters_, _mackerel_, mullet, perch, pike, plaice, _prawns_, salmon,

skate, soles, tench, thornback, trout.

POULTRY AND GAME.—_Chickens_, ducks, fowls, _green geese_, leverets,

pigeons, plovers, rabbits, turkey-poults, wheat-ears, _wild pigeons_,

wild rabbits.

VEGETABLES.—Artichoke, asparagus, balm, beans (French, kidney, scarlet,

and Windsor), carrots, cauliflowers, celery, chervil, cucumbers, endive,

finochio, herbs of all sorts, lettuces, mint, mushrooms, peas, potatoes,

purslane, radishes, rocambole, salads of all sorts, salsify, scorzonera,

sorrel, spinach, turnips.

FOR DRYING.—Knotted marjoram, mushrooms, winter savory.

FOR PICKLING.—French beans, red cabbage, cauliflower, garlic, gherkins,

nasturtiums, onions.

FRUIT.—_Apples_—codlin, jennetting, margaret, summer pearmain, summer

pippin. Apricots, cherries, currants, _damsons_, gooseberries, melons,

nectarines, peaches. _Pears_—Catherine, green-chisel, jargonelle, musque.

Oranges, pine-apples, plums, raspberries, strawberries.

COOKERY FOR JULY.

SOUPS.

ALMOND.—Take a quart of almonds, scald, remove the skins, and pound in a

mortar with the hard yolks of six eggs, until they become a fine paste.

Mix with them gradually two quarts of new milk, a quart of cream, and a

quarter of a pound of double refined sugar; beat the whole very fine, and

stir it well together. When properly mixed, set it over a slow fire, and

stir quickly till it becomes pretty thick, then remove and pour into the

tureen.

CALF’S HEAD.—Scald and wash the head clean with salt and water, then

place in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; add a faggot of

sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, six blades of mace, and a

table-spoonful and a half of pearl-barley. Stew till tender, and add a

head of stewed celery. Season with pepper, pour the soup into the tureen,

place the head in the centre, and serve.

FISH STOCK.—Take a pound of skate, five flounders, and two pounds of

eels, clean them well, cut into small pieces, cover with water when

placed in a stewpan, and season with mace, pepper, salt, an onion

stuck with cloves, a head of celery, a faggot of sweet herbs, and a

tea-spoonful of parsley-seed. Simmer for an hour and a half, closely

covered, then strain off for use. As this stock will not keep more than

two days, it should only be made as required.

PRAWN.—Boil a hundred prawns in a little water, vinegar, salt, and a few

sweet herbs, and save the liquor. Pick the prawns, and pound the shells

and a small roll. Pour the liquor over the shells in a sieve, and then

pour two quarts of fish stock (see p. 276) over them. Tear a lobster into

small pieces, and add this with a quart of good beef stock (see p. 253)

to the whole. Simmer gently, season with pepper and salt, and thicken

with floured butter, then serve.

FISH.

LOBSTER, TO POT COLD.—Choose a hen lobster. Remove the spawn, coral,

flesh, and pickings about the head, and mix with the meat from the claws;

pound well in a mortar, seasoning with white pepper, cayenne, and pounded

mace; then add some thick melted butter, until it forms a good thick

paste. Remove the meat from the tail, pound and season the same, then put

half of it in the bottom of the pot, and cover with the other paste. Pour

clarified butter over the top of each pot, and keep in a cool place.

PRAWNS, TO POT.—Boil and pick a sufficient quantity of prawns, then pound

them in a mortar, and mix them up into a paste with a little butter;

season with white pepper, salt, and a little allspice, then press into

the pots, and cover with clarified butter.

MACKEREL, TO BROIL.—Clean, split down the belly, spread open, cut off the

heads, and pepper well inside: then flour them lightly to prevent their

sticking to the bars of the gridiron, and put over a clear fire, until

done a light brown, then serve, spread open with the insides uppermost,

with a lump of butter the size of a walnut rubbed over each, or with

plain melted butter.

MACKEREL, TO MARINADE.—Prepare the same as dace.

SALMON, TO PICKLE COLD.—Boil some of the liquor in which the fish was

dressed with an equal part of vinegar, and add some whole peppercorns;

when it bubbles, remove from the fire, and pour over any cold salmon you

have at hand. If the salmon is not well done, boil it up in the pickle

until well dressed.

SALMON, TO PICKLE UNDRESSED.—Scale the fish, rub well with a cloth, and

scrape away all the blood about the back-bone, but do not wash it; cut

off the head, and divide the fish into pieces about six inches long,

then boil the pieces in a pickle made of equal parts of vinegar and

water, with a few cloves, and two or three blades of mace, until done;

skim carefully all the time the fish is boiling, and when done remove

the fish, and pour the liquor into a jar or tub, so that both may become

cold; when cold, put the fish into the liquor, with one-third more

vinegar, and some whole pepper.

TROUT, TO PICKLE.—Prepare the same as salmon.

POULTRY, ETC.

CHICKEN, ROASTED.—Clean, singe, and truss them, then put down before a

good fire. Dust well with flour, and baste well. Make a gravy of the

necks and gizzards, which should be strained and poured into the dish.

PLOVERS, ROASTED.—They are trussed, dressed, and sent to table in the

same way as snipes (see page 259).

RABBITS, MUMBLED.—Boil well, but not too much, remove the flesh and chop

fine, then add nutmeg, salt, lemon-peel, and the juice of a lemon. Put it

into a stewpan with twelve eggs, and three-quarters of a pound of butter;

stir well, and serve in a dish with carved sippets.

VEGETABLES.

GREEN PEAS, STEWED.—Put a quart of good peas into a stewpan, with a

lettuce and small onion sliced small, but not any water; add a piece of

butter the size of an orange, pepper and salt to taste, and stew gently

for two hours. Beat up an egg, and stir into them (or a lump of butter

will do as well). Mint should be stewed (if it can be procured) with

them, and ought to be chopped fine, and stirred in with some good gravy.

HERB PIE.—Pick two handfuls of parsley from the stems, half the quantity

of spinach, two lettuces, some mustard and cress, a few leaves of borage,

and a little mint. Wash and boil them a little, then drain, press out the

water and chop small; mix a batter of flour, two eggs well beaten, half

a pint of milk and a pint of cream, and pour it upon the herbs. Cover in

with a good crust, and bake.

MUSHROOMS, TO DRESS.—Take very white button mushrooms, remove the stalks,

wash well, put into a stewpan, with the juice of two lemons, a little

white pepper, half a glass of white wine, a faggot of sweet herbs, and

a table-spoonful of sweet oil. Put all over the fire, and after two

boilings take it off, let it cool, and serve hot.

MEAT.

BEEF, PRESSED.—Salt a piece of the thin part of the flank, the tops of

the ribs, or a piece of the brisket, with salt and saltpetre for five

days. Boil until very tender, then place between two boards, with a heavy

weight upon the top one, and let it remain until cold. Serve as it is,

and garnish with parsley.

DEVONSHIRE SQUAB PIE.—Prepare apples as for other pies, and lay them

in rows, with mutton chops. Shred some onion, mix with brown sugar,

and sprinkle among them, then add a little pepper and salt, pour in a

tea-cupful of water, and cover in your pie, having previously lined the

dish as usual. Bake it well.

HEART—BEEF, ROASTED.—Wash it carefully, stuff with the following

stuffing, roast well, and serve with rich gravy and currant jelly

sauce:—Chop two ounces of beef suet very fine and mix with three ounces

of bread crumbs, a little parsley, marjoram, lemon thyme, pepper, salt,

half a drachm of nutmeg, a drachm of grated lemon-peel, and one shalot

shred fine. When well mixed, add an egg beaten up, and mix well again

until of a good consistence.

VEAL CUTLETS À LA MAINTENON.—Cut slices of veal into pieces

three-quarters of an inch thick, and of a moderate size, beat well with

a rolling-pin, and egg over both sides, then dip them into a mixture of

bread crumbs, pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, thyme, and parsley, and put

into white papers folded down at the sides. Broil, and serve with melted

butter and mushroom ketchup in a sauce-boat.

PASTRY.

DAMASCUS BISCUITS.—Take the whites of three eggs beaten to a froth, a

quarter of a pound of good beef suet chopped very fine, and half an ounce

of bitter almonds blanched, chopped fine, and beaten well with the froth

of the eggs. Then take the yolks of the eggs, and mix with six ounces of

sifted loaf sugar; beat well, pour into the mixture of almonds and whites

of eggs; mix well and shake in two ounces of flour, with sufficient lemon

to flavour them. Pour into small tins, or moulded papers, and bake in a

_quick_ oven.

DERBYSHIRE BREAD.—Rub four ounces of butter into four pounds of flour,

add four eggs well beaten, a pint of milk, and a table-spoonful of yeast.

Mix them into a paste, make into rolls, and let them stand half an hour

before the fire to rise; then put them into the oven to bake. Dip them in

milk the next day, and let them stand before the fire in a Dutch oven for

about twenty minutes.

DEVONSHIRE SYLLABUB.—Make the same as London syllabub, and then put

clouted cream on the top, with powdered cinnamon, and sugar.

HOUSEWIFE’S CREAM.—Take half a pint of good cream, a quarter of a pint of

white wine, a tea-cupful of powdered white sugar, and the rind and juice

of one lemon. Put all into a large basin, and whisk till it becomes quite

thick, then put into glasses, and let them remain in a cool place till

required. [This cream is better if made the day before it is wanted, and

it will keep good for several days, if the weather is not too warm.]

LONDON SYLLABUB.—Put a pint and a half of white wine into a bowl, sweeten

with sugar, and add grated nutmeg to taste. Then milk into it about two

quarts of milk, frothed up, but the quantity must depend upon the taste,

for it will require more milk if too acid.

NEWCASTLE PUDDING.—Butter a basin or mould, stick it all round with

sultanas or dried cherries, then put in a slice of bread crumb soaked

in milk, and over that layers of thin bread crumb buttered, until three

parts filled; fill up with custard, and boil for an hour and a half.

NOURMAHAL CAKE.—Cut four slices of sponge-cake about an inch thick and of

an oval shape, but each slice smaller than the others. Spread a thick

layer of apricot jam upon the first and largest slice, and then lay the

next sized slice upon it; spread the second slice with apple marmalade,

and cover with the third size, which is to be spread in like manner with

strawberry jam, and covered with the smallest size. Press the top lightly

with the hand, and with a sharp knife cut away the central part, so as to

leave a wall about two inches and a half thick, which is to be trimmed

outside. Mash up the part removed from the centre, with equal parts of

white wine and brandy, sufficient to flavour, and stir in some good thick

custard, then pour into the centre of the cake. Whip the whites of two

eggs into a stiff froth, pour over the whole, heaping it well up in the

centre, and shake sifted sugar thickly on, then place in a quick oven

until the frosting is set. A few pieces of strawberry jam or any other

preserve placed round the bottom of the dish, gives a finish to the whole.

FOOD FOR AUGUST.

MEAT.—Beef, grass-lamb, mutton, veal, buck-venison.

FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cod, conger-eels, crabs, cray-fish, dabbs,

_dace_, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, herrings, lobsters,

_mackerel_, mullet, oysters, _perch_, _pike_, plaice, _prawns_, salmon,

skate, soles, tench, thornback, _turbot_, whitings.

POULTRY AND GAME.—Chickens, ducks, fowls, _green geese_, _grouse_

(from 12th), leverets, moor-game, pigeons, plovers, rabbits, turkeys,

turkey-poults, wheat-ears, wild ducks, wild pigeons, wild rabbits.

VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, beans (French, kidney, scarlet, and Windsor),

white beet, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cucumbers, endive, finochio,

pot-herbs of all sorts, leeks, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, peas,

potatoes, purslane, radishes, salad of all sorts, salsify, scorzonera,

shalots, spinach, turnips.

FOR DRYING.—Basil, sage, thyme.

FOR PICKLING.—Red cabbage, capsicums, chilies, tomatoes, walnuts.

FRUIT.—_Apple_—codlin, summer pearmain, summer pippin. Cherries,

currants, damsons, figs, filberts, gooseberries, grapes, melons,

mulberries, nectarines, peaches. _Pears_—jargonelle, summer Bon Chrétien,

Windsor. _Plums_—greengages, Orleans. Raspberries, Alpine strawberries.

COOKERY FOR AUGUST.

SOUPS.

À LA CHARTRE.—Clean three or four sweetbreads in warm water, then scald

in boiling water, and put them into a saucepan with a faggot of parsley,

three cloves, four shalots, a few mushrooms, and a quart of good giblet

soup (see page 258); stew all gently over a slow fire, and when done, if

requisite, season with pepper and salt, and serve hot with the sweetbread

and mushrooms in the tureen, the rest being passed through a sieve.

OX CHEEK.—Break the bones of the cheek, and well wash and clean it. Put

two ounces of butter in a large stewpan, and lay the cheek in with the

fleshy side downwards; then add about half a pound of lean ham sliced,

with three large onions, two carrots, three or four heads of celery, and

one parsnip, all sliced small; set over a moderate fire for a quarter of

an hour, then add three blades of mace, and four quarts of water, and

simmer gently till it is reduced to two quarts. Strain off the soup,

and add the white part of a head of celery cut in small pieces, with a

little browning to colour it. Scald two ounces of vermicelli, and put

into the soup; boil for ten minutes, then pour into the tureen, and serve

hot. (This soup is seldom made until the latter part of this month, as

parsnips do not come in until then, or early in September, but in case it

is desired earlier, two potatoes may be substituted for the parsnip. The

cheek must be saved for stewing, for which see page 283).

SCOTCH LEEK.—Take the water that has boiled a leg of mutton, put it into

a stewpan, with as many pea-shells (washed clean) as you can get; simmer

gently for a quarter of an hour, strain off the liquor, throw away the

pea-shells, and return the liquor to the stewpan; then add two leeks,

chopped fine, to every quart of liquor, and pepper and salt to taste;

simmer gently for an hour, then mix some oatmeal, quite smooth, with a

little of the soup, set it over a slow fire and simmer again, but take

care that it does not burn. When done, pour into the tureen, and serve

hot.

FISH.

EELS, BROILED.—Skin and clean them, cut into pieces about three inches

long, and boil slowly over a good fire: then serve with melted butter.

EELS, TO POT.—Skin and clean the eels, split them, and remove the

back-bone, then cut into pieces two or three inches long, and season with

pepper, salt, dried sage rubbed fine, and powdered allspice and nutmeg.

Place the pieces in a baking-dish in layers, pour in clarified butter

until full; cover with paper, and bake in a moderately quick oven for an

hour and a half. When cold, remove them, press into pots, and cover with

clarified butter.

PERCH, TO FRY.—Clean, cut all the fins close off, open by the belly, dry

well, dust with flour, and fry a light brown, in plenty of lard or olive

oil. Serve with melted butter, anchovy, soy, or ketchup.

PIKE, TO BAKE.—Scale and clean the fish, cut off its fins, and stuff the

belly with the pudding-meat given in the volume; then place the tail

in the mouth, as recommended for stewing, and put it upon its belly in

a baking-dish. Flour the fish well all over, cover with a few lumps of

butter, and place in an oven, or a Dutch oven before the fire, taking

care to baste it occasionally with some of the fat. When done, remove the

pike, place on a clean dish, add a squeeze of lemon, a little soy and

melted butter together, mix, and pour into the dish; garnish with sliced

lemon, and serve as hot as possible.

TURBOT, TO BOIL.—Choose a sufficiently large kettle, pour in sufficient

water to cover the fish, add a handful of salt, a table-spoonful of

shred horse-radish, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar. Boil until the

water has acquired some flavour, and then allow it to become cool. Score

the fish just through the skin on the dark side, so as to prevent it

cracking on the other, and then place it in the kettle with the dark

side downwards, and check the boiling as soon as ebullition takes place;

observe also that the scum is removed frequently, and that no blacks fall

into the kettle. When done, remove, sprinkle the surface with the dried

spawn of a hen lobster, or if it cannot be procured, a little scraped

horse-radish. Serve with lobster, shrimp, or crab sauce. (A moderate

sized turbot requires about half an hour to cook it well, a large one

from three-quarters of an hour to an hour, and a thick slice from twenty

to twenty-five minutes.) When the fish is done, it should be well

drained, and placed upon a napkin or serviette laid over a fish drainer.

POULTRY, ETC.

GROUSE, TO ROAST.—Twist the head under the wing, and roast them like

fowls, but they must not be too much done. Serve with a rich gravy in the

dish, and bread sauce.

LEVERET, ROASTED.—Skin, and truss nicely, then roast on a spit; rub the

back over with butter, flour well, and keep before a brisk fire for half

an hour at the most, but generally from twenty to twenty-five minutes is

sufficient. Serve with hare sauce. They do not require stuffing like hare.

WHEAT-EARS, TO ROAST.—These are dressed the same as snipes.

VEGETABLES.

CARROTS, TO BOIL.—Scrape them clean, put into a saucepan, and if young,

boil for half an hour, if old, they will require more. When done, rub

them in a clean cloth, and serve whole, or sliced into the dish with

melted butter over them.

ENDIVE, TO STEW.—Boil in four different salt waters, to extract the

bitter taste, and when tender throw it into cold water, squeeze well, and

chop fine, then put into a stewpan with a lump of butter, and a few young

onions chopped fine; let it dry, dredge with a dessert-spoonful of flour,

add some pepper and salt, a little gravy, two tea-spoonfuls of sifted

sugar, and stew gently a quarter of an hour.

MEAT.

HAM, TO BOIL.—Soak the ham in cold water the night before it is to be

dressed, scrape it clean, and put it into the boiler with cold water.

Skim the liquor while boiling, do not let it boil fast, but simmer only,

and add a little cold water to check it occasionally. When done, take it

up, pull off the skin carefully, and dust with bread raspings; set before

the fire for a few minutes, then garnish with turnips and carrots cut to

resemble flowers, or stick with cloves, or garnish with boiled carrots.

A ham of twenty pounds weight requires six hours and a half boiling. The

established rule, as regards the boiling of meat, is to allow a quarter

of an hour to each pound; but for ham and pork you will allow from twenty

to twenty-five minutes.

OX CHEEK, STEWED.—After having prepared the soup as previously directed,

remove the cheek as whole as possible, and have ready a boiled turnip,

and carrot, cut in square pieces, and some toasted bread cut into dice;

add cayenne, and some of the soup, then serve hot, with carved sippets

round the dish.

PASTRY.

BATTER PUDDING.—Take a quart of milk, mix with six table-spoonfuls of

flour, six well-beaten eggs, a table-spoonful of powdered ginger, and a

tea-spoonful of salt; flour a cloth that has been wet, or butter a basin

and put the batter into it, tie tight, and plunge it into boiling water,

the bottom upwards. Boil for an hour and a quarter, and serve with plain

melted butter, or sweet sauce. If according to taste, half a pound of

well-washed currants may be added.

GOOD COMMON CAKE.—Take six ounces of good ground rice, and the same

quantity of flour, the yolks and whites of nine eggs, half a pound of

sugar, and half an ounce of carraway seeds. Mix well together, and bake

for an hour in a quick oven.

CUSTARD PUDDING, BAKED.—Boil a pint of cream with three blades of mace or

a stick of cinnamon; when cold, take four yolks and two whites of eggs,

nutmeg and sugar to taste, beat them well, and stir into the cream, pour

into cups, and bake in a quick oven.

GINGERBREAD, SPICED.—Take three-quarters of a pound of treacle, one egg,

four ounces of moist sugar, an ounce of powdered ginger, and a quarter of

an ounce each of mace, cloves, allspice, and nutmeg powdered, a pound of

oiled butter, and sufficient flour to make a stiff paste; mix well, and

make into thick pieces, which should be brushed over the top with white

of egg, and then baked for an hour in a moderate oven.

PANCAKES.—Take one pound of flour, two eggs, two drachms of bi-carbonate

of soda, one ounce of sugar, two drachms of muriatic acid, half a drachm

of nutmegs, ten ounces of ale, ten ounces of water, and twenty ounces of

milk.

NAPLES CHEESE.—The Neapolitans are celebrated for a kind of cheese, which

they make in the following manner:—They put ten or twelve pints of milk

into a metal pot with a cover, capable of holding about ten times the

quantity. The milk must be new, and from a young cow. No yeast, or acid

of any kind, is employed; but sufficient pressure must be used to curdle

it. When curdled, place it over a quick fire, stirring it rapidly with

a stick to prevent its burning, and to separate the caseous matter from

the dregs. The heat must be tried by the hand, and when it is getting too

warm to be borne, take off the pot, plunge both hands gently in to take

the cheese out, which is easily raised at once and in a single piece.

The pan in which it is to be placed should have a raised edge, so that,

in drying, the paste may not be too thin: the whey is then got rid of by

pressing it carefully, and some time afterwards it is turned and pressed

again; the next day salt it moderately, and put it in a place of cool,

dry, and even temperature. It is fit to cut as soon as it is cool, but

is best when four or five months old, at which time it is very delicate,

with a pleasant smell and flavour.

FOOD FOR SEPTEMBER.

MEAT.—Beef, mutton, pork, veal, and buck-venison.

FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cockles, cod, conger-eel, crabs, _dace_, eels,

flounders, gurnets, haddocks, hake, herrings, lobsters, mullet, mussels,

_oysters_, _perch_, _pike_, plaice, prawns, shrimps, soles, tench,

thornback, turbot, whitings.

POULTRY AND GAME.—Chickens, ducks, fowls, green geese, _grouse_, _hares_,

larks, leverets, _moor-game_, _partridges_, pigeons, plovers, rabbits,

_teal_, turkeys, turkey-poults, wheat-ears, _wild ducks_, wild pigeons,

wild rabbits.

VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, beans (French and scarlet),

cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cucumbers, endive, finochio,

herbs of all sorts, leeks, lettuces, mushrooms, onions, parsnips, peas,

potatoes, radishes, salad of all sorts, shalots, turnips.

FRUIT.—_Apples_—White caville, pearmain, golden rennet. Morella cherries;

damsons; figs; filberts. _Grapes_—Muscadine, Frontignac, red and black

Hamburg, Malmsey. Hazel-nuts; medlars; peaches. _Pears_—bergamot, brown

beurré. Pine-apples; plums; quinces; strawberries; walnuts.

COOKERY FOR SEPTEMBER.

SOUPS.

HESSIAN.—Clean the root of a neat’s tongue very nicely, and half an ox’s

head, with salt and water, and soak them afterwards in water only. Then

stew them in five or six quarts of water till pretty tender, and let the

soup stand till cold, then remove the fat and add a quart of whole, or a

pint of split peas, six potatoes, six large onions, twelve carrots, six

turnips, a faggot of herbs, and two heads of celery, all cut fine; season

with pepper, salt, mace, and a little cayenne; simmer gently, without the

meat, till the vegetables are done enough to pulp with the peas through a

sieve; cut up some of the meat into small pieces, and place in a saucepan

with the pulped soup, which should be pretty thick; simmer for five

minutes, and then serve hot.

MOCK TURTLE.—Take a calf’s head, scald and wash it very clean, boil it

for half an hour, then cut all the skin off by itself, and remove the

tongue. Put a pint of veal stock (see p. 253), and the tongue into a

saucepan with three large onions, half an ounce of cloves and mace,

and sufficient nutmeg to flavour, beat fine in a mortar, add a faggot

of sweet herbs, and a little salt. Stew all together, and when tender,

remove the meat, cut into pieces about two inches square, and the tongue

(which must be skinned) into pieces the same size. Strain off the liquor,

put half a pound of fresh butter into the stewpan, melt it, and add a

quarter of a pound of flour, which must be kept stirring till smooth,

then add the liquor, stirring till all is in; if lumpy, it must be

strained again through a sieve; season pretty well, add a pint of white

wine, and some lemon-juice to flavour, and forcemeat, and egg-balls

broiled, and stew gently for an hour. If too thick, add some veal stock

before stewing for the last time, and serve hot in the tureen.

SHIN OF BEEF.—Take a shin of beef weighing about six pounds, chop the

bone in two or three places, and lay in a soup-kettle with half a pound

of bacon at the bottom, cut in slices about half an inch thick; add two

carrots, two turnips, a head of celery, two large onions, with a dozen

peppercorns, the same of allspice, four cloves, a sprig of lemon thyme,

winter savory, and parsley. Cover the meat with cold water, set over a

quick fire to boil, skim well, and let it stew gently for four hours;

then remove the meat, strain off the soup, and take the fat off the

surface when it is cold. Cut the meat into small pieces, and put them

into the soup; warm up, and serve hot in a tureen.

FISH.

BRILL, TO FRY.—Cut off the fins close to the sides of the fish, scrape

off the slime, and dry them well; then egg them over, dip in bread

crumbs, and fry a pale brown in plenty of dripping, or lard. Garnish with

fried parsley, and serve them up with melted butter and soy, ketchup, or

anchovy sauce. Some persons remove the dark skin from the one side.

COCKLES, TO PICKLE.—1. Boil the cockles with a little salt, remove from

the shells, and save the liquor; then add about a third of vinegar to the

liquor, and boil up with cayenne, white pepper, and a blade of mace; let

this get cold, and then add to the cockles.—2. Prepare the same, only add

three parts vinegar to one part liquor. (The first method is for present

use, the second will keep a much longer time.)

FLOUNDERS AS WATER SOUCHY.—Prepare the same as perch and tench.

MUSSELS, TO PICKLE.—Prepare the same as cockles, given above.

OYSTER SAUSAGES.—Chop and pound some veal well in a mortar, then chop

up an equal proportion of oysters, mix well and add some bread crumbs,

and a little beef suet shred fine; moisten with some of the liquor of

the oysters, season with pepper, salt, and a little mace, bind together

with a well-beaten egg, form into sausages, or flat cakes, and fry a pale

brown in good dripping.

OYSTERS, SCALLOPED.—Butter the bottoms of your scallop shells, then

sprinkle with bread crumbs, and lay a sufficient number of bearded

oysters to cover the bread, season with pepper and salt, and place some

pieces of butter over them; place another layer of bread crumbs, oysters,

and butter, until the shell is full, then cover the whole with bread

crumbs, add a few pieces of butter on the top, and place in a Dutch oven

before the fire; when done, brown with a salamander, or a red-hot shovel

held over the top, and serve in the scallop shells.

POULTRY, ETC.

CHICKEN FRICASSEE.—Half-boil a chicken in a little water, let it cool,

then cut it up, and simmer in a gravy made of some of the water in which

it was boiled, and the neck, head, feet, liver, and gizzard stewed well

together. Add an onion, a faggot of herbs, pepper and salt, and thicken

with butter rolled in flour added to the strained liquor, with a little

nutmeg, then give it a boil, and add a pint of cream, stir over the fire,

but do not let it boil. Put the hot chicken into a dish, pour the sauce

over it, add some fried forcemeat balls, and garnish it with slices of

lemon.

GROUSE, TO POT.—Clean them nicely, and season with allspice, salt, mace,

and white pepper, finely powdered. Rub each part well, then lay the

breasts downwards in a pan, and pack the birds as close as possible. Put

plenty of butter on them; then cover the pan with a coarse flour-paste,

and a paper over; tie it close, and bake. When cold, cut it into proper

pieces for helping; pack them close into a large potting-jar, press down

and cover with butter, then tie close.

HARE COLLOPS.—Cut off all the flesh from an undressed hare, remove any

tendons or skin, mince small, and season with salt, allspice, pepper, and

a little mace. If agreeable to taste, shred a small onion fine, and add

to the mince. Dust them well with flour; and having browned some dripping

in a frying-pan, add the collops, and keep stirring until they become a

light brown. Put the skin, bones, &c. into a saucepan with a little beef

broth, and simmer well for half an hour, then strain into a saucepan,

add the collops and a little port wine or claret to flavour, and simmer

until done enough, taking care to remove any grease that may rise to the

surface during the time the collops simmer. Serve hot in a dish, with

carved sippets, and slices of lemon for a garnish.

HARE, TO ROAST—A NEW WAY.—Skin it, and soak in plenty of cold water for

two hours, then lay it in vinegar for two hours, and afterwards wash it

well in cold water. Put the stuffing into the paunch, sew it up, and

truss; then put down before a clear fire, and baste well with ale for a

quarter of an hour, then with milk for half an hour, and afterwards with

butter. Notch the neck in two or three places with a knife. Dredge well

with flour, baste to a nice froth; serve with plain gravy in the dish,

and currant jelly separate, or poivrade sauce.

PARTRIDGE PIE.—Pick, singe, and clean four partridges, cut off the

legs at the knee, season with pepper, salt, thyme, chopped parsley,

and two mushrooms of moderate size chopped fine. Put the partridges at

the _bottom_ of the dish, and lay over them some veal steak and ham,

cut into pieces about two inches square; add half a pint of good veal

broth (see page 258), cover with a good puff-paste in the usual way,

brush over with egg, and bake for an hour.—The general way of laying the

meat at the bottom of the dish is wrong, because by the method given

above, the partridges receive the flavour of the meat, which is in a

measure prevented by adopting the old method. In some pies—pigeons for

instance—some of the meat should be placed at the bottom as well as the

top.

TEAL, TO ROAST.—Dress the same as wild ducks (see page 255); but it is

well, unless ordered otherwise, to dress one well and the other rather

less, as some epicures prefer wild-fowl under-done, as it is said to be

finer flavoured. Epicures eat wild-fowl without sauce, but a good brown

gravy, flavoured with shalot, cayenne, salt, and port or claret, is

usually served over the birds.

VEGETABLES.

ARTICHOKES, TO BOIL.—Strip off the coarse outer leaves, cut off the

stalks, and steep and wash them freely in cold water; put them in the pot

tops downwards, and keep up to the boil for two or three hours, taking

care to keep them below the water, by floating a plate over them. If the

water evaporates too quickly, add boiling water from time to time, as

required. Remove the plate, take out one of the vegetables, try a leaf,

and if it draws out easily, it is done; if not, return again to the pot,

and keep up the boil until done. Drain them, place, tops uppermost, in a

vegetable dish, and serve with melted butter in a sauce-boat.

CARROTS, FLEMISH WAY.—Prepare (after boiling) in the form of dice, balls,

stars, crescents, &c., and stew with chopped parsley, young onions, salt

and pepper, in plain melted butter, or good brown gravy.

MUSHROOMS, GRILLED.—Procure some sound large fresh-gathered flaps, peel

them, score the under part, put into an earthen dish, baste well with

melted butter, and strew with pepper and salt. After they have remained

thus prepared for an hour and a half, broil on both sides over a clear

fire, and serve with a lump of butter rubbed over the top, and a dust of

pepper, or with melted butter, and the juice of a lemon poured over them.

MUSHROOMS À LA MAINTENON.—Prepare the same as the last, but cook in an

oven, and serve with a sauce prepared from the stalks and trimmings

combined with a little good beef gravy, well seasoned, and strained.

MEAT.

BEEF HAMS.—Prepare, trim, and shape a leg of beef like a ham, then put

on a dish, and baste with the following pickle morning and evening for a

month, then remove from the pickle, drain, roll in bran, and smoke it.

Cover with a piece of canvas, give it a coat of lime-wash, and hang it in

a dry place until wanted:—

For a piece of meat weighing fourteen pounds, mix a pound of salt, the

same of coarse brown sugar, an ounce of saltpetre, the same of bay salt,

half an ounce of coarse black pepper, and three ounces of treacle, adding

sufficient beer to form into a _thick_ pickle.

CHESHIRE PORK PIE.—Take the skin off a loin of pork, and cut the loin

into steaks, season with salt, pepper, and dried sage. Make a good crust,

line the dish with it, and put in a layer of pork, then a layer of sliced

pippins dipped in sugar, then another layer of pork, and add half a pint

of white wine; put some pieces of butter on the top, cover in the pie,

and bake in a moderate oven.

STAFFORDSHIRE BEEF STEAKS.—Beat them a little with a rolling-pin, then

flour and season with salt and pepper, and fry a light brown with sliced

onions. Lay the steaks in a stewpan, pour over them as much boiling water

as will serve for sauce, and stew gently for half an hour, then add

mushroom or walnut ketchup to flavour, and serve as usual.

TRIPE, SOUSED.—1. Boil the tripe, and put it into salt and water, which

must be changed every day until the tripe is used; then remove, dip in

batter made of flour and eggs, and fry a light brown.—2. Boil in salt and

water with an onion shred fine, and a little parsley; serve both with

melted butter in a sauce-boat.

TRIPE STUFFED AND ROASTED.—Make a good stuffing, lay it on the slices of

tripe, roll them up so as to have the stuffing between the folds, tie

each tightly round with a piece of string the same as a fillet of veal,

and attach to a spit. Roast a light brown, baste with dripping, and serve

with a good brown gravy. This is considered to be the most delicious

method of dressing tripe, and is generally used in the midland counties

of England.

PASTRY.

DERBY SHORT CAKES.—Rub half a pound of butter down into a pound of flour,

and mix one egg, a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar, and as much milk

as will make a paste. Roll this out thin, and cut out the cakes with any

fancy shapes, or the top of a wine-glass; place on tin plates, strew over

with sugar, or cover the top of each with icing, and bake for ten minutes.

MARATHON BISCUITS FOR WINE.—Rub three ounces of butter down into a pound

of dry sifted fine flour, add a pinch of salt, and sugar to taste; then

make into a dough with warm good milk and a table-spoonful of yeast.

Knead it up quickly, let it stand for an hour, then roll it out thin, cut

into lozenge shapes, prick with a fork, and bake in a quick oven.

NORTHUMBERLAND PUDDING.—Make a hasty pudding with a pint of milk and

flour, put it into a basin, and let it stand until the next day; then

mash it with a spoon, and add a quarter of a pound of clarified butter,

as many currants picked and washed, sugar and brandy to flavour, and two

ounces of candied lemon-peel cut fine. Pour into buttered tea-cups, bake

in a moderate oven, and turn out on a dish. Serve with wine sauce over

them.

NOTTINGHAM PUDDING.—Peel six large apples, and remove the core in such a

manner as to leave the fruit whole, then fill up the centre with sugar,

place the fruit in a pie-dish, and pour over a nice light batter, such as

is used for pudding. Bake in a moderate oven for an hour.

OXFORD DUMPLINGS.—Mix together two ounces of grated bread, four ounces

of currants washed and picked, the same of shred suet, a table-spoonful

of sifted sugar, a little powdered allspice, and plenty of grated

lemon-peel. Add two eggs and a little milk; then divide the whole into

five dumplings, and fry them a light brown. Serve with sweet sauce.

FOOD FOR OCTOBER.

MEAT.—Beef, mutton, pork, veal, doe-venison.

FISH.—Barbel, brill, turbot, carp, cockles, cod, conger-eels, crabs,

_dace_, _dory_, eels, gudgeon, haddocks, _hake_, halibut, herrings,

lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, _pike_, prawns, salmon-trout, shrimps,

smelts, soles, tench, thornback, turbot, whitings.

POULTRY AND GAME.—Chickens, dotterel, ducks, fowls, green geese, grouse,

hares, larks, moor-game, partridges, _pheasants_, pigeons, rabbits,

snipes, teal, turkeys, wheat-ears, widgeon, wild ducks, wild pigeons,

wild rabbits, woodcocks.

VEGETABLES.—Artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes, brocoli, cabbages,

cauliflowers, celery, coleworts, endive, herbs of all sorts, leeks,

onions, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, rocambole, salad, savoys,

scorzonera, skirrets, shalots, spinach (winter), tomatos, truffles,

turnips.

FRUITS.—Almonds. _Apples_—pearmain, golden pippin, golden rennet,

royal russet. Black and white bullace; damsons; late figs; filberts;

hazel-nuts; grapes; medlars. _Peaches_—Old Newington, October.

_Pears_—Bergamot, beurré, Charmontelle, Bon Chrétien, cresan,

swan’s-egg. Quinces, services, walnuts.

COOKERY FOR OCTOBER.

SOUPS.

FLEMISH.—Slice six onions, six heads of celery, and a dozen potatoes,

into small pieces; then put them into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound

of butter and half a pint of water, and set on a stove, or the side of

the fire to simmer for an hour, and when done sufficiently, add good beef

or veal stock (see page 253), so as to fill the stewpan, or enough to

give a good flavour. Boil gently until the potatoes become quite soft,

then rub through a sieve, add half a pint of boiled cream, or some good

thick white sauce to it, and serve hot.

OX TAIL.—Take two large, or three small tails, divide them completely at

the joints, rub them with salt, and soak well in warm water. Remove after

they have soaked for an hour and a half, and place in a stewpan with a

faggot of parsley, four or five onions, a dozen peppercorns, a blade

of mace, a turnip, and two carrots sliced, and three quarts of water.

Stew gently for two hours and a half, or until the meat is tender, then

remove, cut into small pieces, which place in a fresh stewpan. Thicken

the soup with a little browned flour rubbed up with a ladleful of the top

fat, and then strain it into the stewpan containing the tails. Boil up,

skim well, add mushroom-catsup, and pepper to taste, and serve hot.

TOMATO.—Choose a dozen ripe tomatos, or if large, only ten, put them

into a stewpan with a pint of good beef stock (see page 253), and stew

gently until they are quite soft, then pulp through a tamis-cloth, or

fine sieve, and after mixing the pulp with a little ginger, cayenne, and

salt, according to taste, add it to two quarts of good beef stock, and

boil up. When it boils, add two ounces of Italian paste, in small stars,

rings, &c., or the same quantity of vermicelli; boil for twenty minutes,

and serve hot. Some persons like the soup flavoured with garlic, in which

case, half a clove may be added to the tomatos when first put on to stew,

and the soup may generally be improved by adding a very little vinegar,

and a sprig of thyme.

FISH.

DORY, TO BOIL.—Boil the same as a turbot (see p. 282), and serve with

lobster sauce. Garnish with plenty of parsley.

HERRINGS, TO FRY.—Scale, wash, and dry them in a cloth, but do not cut

off their heads. Dredge them with flour, and fry them with clean dripping

or lard, over a brisk fire, and when done, serve hot, garnished with

fried parsley round the dish, and parsley and butter for sauce.

HERRINGS, TO SMOKE.—Clean the fish as directed above, then lay in salt,

mixed with a little saltpetre, for one night; remove from the salt, run a

stick through the eyes so that you have a dozen or more in a row. Knock

one end out of a cask, and fasten the sticks, with the herrings attached,

to the other end, by means of wedges or staples, and string. Place a

small brazier, with red-hot charcoal in it, in a convenient place, and

heap saw-dust and walnut shells upon it; then place the inverted cask,

prepared as directed above, over it, and let it remain for twenty-four

hours. When sufficiently smoked, remove, and lay in a dry place, or run a

string through the eyes, and hang up.

SALMON-TROUT PIE.—A PLAIN WAY.—Clean and neatly trim, then cut into

handsome fillets, as many trout as may be required; season each fillet

with pepper, salt, mace, and cayenne, which should be well rubbed into

the inside, and each fillet afterwards rolled up and well packed into the

pie-dish. Put bits of butter above and among the fillets, and add six

or eight oysters. Take a pint of fish stock (see page 276), or the same

quantity made of the head and trimmings, thicken and strain this over the

fish; then cover in the dish with a good paste, and bake as usual, but

remember that it will not require so long a time to bake as a meat-pie.

SOLES, TO STEW.—Half-fry them in lard or clean dripping, then remove from

the pan, and put into it a quart of water, two table-spoonfuls of anchovy

sauce, and an onion sliced thin; let this boil slowly for a quarter of an

hour, then put the fish in again, and stew gently for rather more than

twenty minutes, but this will of course depend upon the size of the fish.

When done, remove the fish, thicken the liquor with floured butter, boil

up, and having laid the fish in a dish, strain the thickened liquor over

them, and serve hot with shrimp sauce in a sauce-boat.

POULTRY, ETC.

PHEASANT, LARDED AND ROASTED, SPORTSMAN’S FASHION.—When the pheasant

gives off a peculiar odour, and the skin of the breast changes colour a

little, it should be plucked carefully, but not sooner. When plucked,

lard it with some good fresh bacon very carefully, and then stuff with

the following:—Take two woodcocks, and divide the flesh into one portion,

and the tail and liver into another; mince and mix the meat with some

good beef marrow, a little scraped bacon, salt, pepper, and lemon

thyme, or other herbs; add truffles sufficient to fill up the rest of

the inside of the bird, then stuff it in and secure well, so that none

of it may escape, which may be effectually done by placing a crust of

bread over the opening, and sewing it up. Make a paste of the livers of

the woodcocks, some truffles, grated bacon, an anchovy boned, and some

fresh butter; cover the bird with this, put down to roast, and when done,

serve upon a slice of toasted bread, surrounded with slices of orange,

and some of the gravy round the bird. [This receipt was obtained from an

old epicurean sportsman, who vouched for its being a first-rate way of

cooking the bird, and further recommended that a table-spoonful of good

champagne or burgundy should be poured over the bird, in addition to a

good libation of the same wine during the time it is being partaken of.]

WOODCOCK, TO ROAST.—Prepare and cook the same as snipe.

VEGETABLES.

ONIONS, TO RAGOUT.—Peel a pint of onions, as young as they can be

procured, then peel four large ones and cut them very small; put some

good dripping or butter into a stewpan, and when melted, add the onions

and fry until a light brown; then thicken with flour, and give them a

shake until thick. Add a quarter of a pint of gravy, a little powdered

pepper, salt, and a tea-spoonful of mustard; stir all together, and when

tolerably thick, pour into the dish and garnish with fried crumbs of

bread.

TOMATOS, TO STUFF.—Take some fine tomatos and scoop the inside out, which

should be set aside until required. Chop or mince fine some beef, mutton,

or other _fresh under-done_ meat, mix with a little pepper, salt, and a

little sweet herbs; or make a forcemeat; and mix with the scoopings of

the tomatos; form into a good consistence, and stuff the inside of the

vegetable with the mixture. Set the prepared vegetables in a dish with a

little lard in a slow oven, and bake until tender; then serve with the

liquor that exudes during the process; but if not brown enough, colour by

means of a salamander held over the top of each.

A good rich beef gravy poured over all, improves the flavour very much.

This is the best way to dress these vegetables, and serves also to make

cold meat more palatable, in addition to forming a pretty and economical

side dish.

MEAT.

CALF’S HEART, BAKED.—Clean, and stuff as directed at p. 278 for roasted

beef heart, then bake instead of roasting, and afterwards serve with rich

gravy or liver sauce.

HAM, TO BOIL IN A SUPERIOR WAY.—Par-boil the ham according to the receipt

given by us at p. 282, then allow it to remain in the water _all night_,

and finish boiling the next day, so as to be in time for dishing up;

skin, and dust with raspings, the same as directed before, and you will

have a more tender ham than one dressed otherwise.

KIDNEY PUDDING.—Split and soak the kidney, season each well, make a paste

of suet, flour, and milk; roll well, line a basin with it, place the

kidney in, cover with the paste, and pinch up the sides. Tie the basin up

in a cloth, and boil well; then turn out and serve with a good gravy, if

there is not sufficient in the dish.

Some persons add a little beef-steak cut into small pieces, in order that

the flavour and gravy may be improved.

VENISON, FRIED.—Cut the meat into slices, fry a light brown, and keep

hot before the fire. Make gravy of the bones and any trimmings, add a

little floured butter, and stir until it is thick and brown, then add

lemon-juice and port wine to taste, with pepper or cayenne. Warm the

venison in the gravy, place in a dish, and strain the gravy over it.

Serve with currant jelly in a glass.

PASTRY.

BLACK CAPS.—Divide and core some large apples, put them in a shallow pan,

add some powdered white sugar, and bake them. Mix a wine-glassful of

white wine, the same of water, one clove, a little grated lemon-peel, and

sugar to taste; boil gently, and strain over them when in the dish. Black

the tops of each with a salamander.

BULLACE TART.—Place a small cup in the centre of the dish, and place the

fruit, picked and washed, round it, heaped up in the centre; add enough

sugar, and cover with a light paste, which should be rather rich.

EXETER PUDDING, À LA SOYER.—Put in a proper sized basin ten ounces of

fine boiled crumbs, four ounces of sago, seven ounces of suet chopped

fine, six ounces of moist sugar, the peel of half a lemon grated, a

quarter-pint of rum, and four eggs; stir for a few minutes with a spoon,

add three more eggs, four table-spoonfuls of clouted cream, mix well: it

is then ready to fill the mould. Butter the mould well, put in a handful

of bread crumbs, shake the mould well till the greater part stick to the

butter, then throw out the remainder, and have ready six penny sponge

cakes, two ounces of ratafia, and half a pound of either raspberry or

strawberry jam: cover the bottom of the mould with a layer of ratafias,

and just cover them with a layer of the mixture. Cut the sponge-cake

lengthways, spread each piece pretty thick with jam, put a layer in the

mould, then a few ratafias, afterwards some of the mixture, and so on

till the mould is full, taking care that a layer of the mixture is on the

top of the pudding. It will take about forty minutes baking.

For the _sauce_, put in a small stewpan three table-spoonfuls of currant

jelly, and two wine-glassfuls of sherry; warm on the fire, and pour over

the pudding, and serve hot.

RATAFIA PUDDING.—Blanch, and pound in a mortar until they become a

good paste, four ounces of sweet, and a quarter of an ounce of bitter

almonds, with a dessert-spoonful of water; then add one ounce and a half

of fresh butter, melted with a little cream, two well-beaten eggs, a

little nutmeg, and sugar, and brandy or curaçoa to taste. Butter a small

cup or a mould (earthenware), pour in the pudding, and bake. When done,

turn out, and serve with the following sauce:—Take a wine-glassful of

white wine, half a glass of rum, a little grated lemon-peel, sugar to

taste, and a pinch of powdered cinnamon; stir into some good thick melted

butter, and serve part in a sauce-boat, and pour some over the pudding.

TRAFALGAR CAKES.—Mix a pound of well-dried flour with six ounces of

finely pounded sugar; beat six ounces of butter to a cream, and stir in

half a pound of currants well cleaned and dried, and three eggs well

beaten, then add the flour and sugar, and beat for some time. Flour some

tins, and drop a table-spoonful upon them, then bake as usual.

FOOD FOR NOVEMBER.

MEAT.—Beef, house-lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doe-venison.

FISH.—Barbel, brill, carp, cockles, cod, crabs, _dace_, _dory_, eels,

gudgeon, gurnets, haddocks, _hake_, halibut, herrings, ling, lobsters,

mussels, oysters, perch, _pike_, plaice, prawns, salmon, shrimps, skate,

smelts, soles, sprats, tench, thornback, turbot, whitings.

POULTRY AND GAME.—Chickens, dotterel, ducks, fowls, _geese_, _grouse_,

_hares_, larks, moor-game, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, rabbits,

_snipes_, _teal_, turkeys, wheat-ears, widgeon, wild ducks, _woodcocks_.

VEGETABLES.—Jerusalem artichokes, chard beets, borecole, brocoli,

cabbages, cardoons, carrots, celery, chervil, coleworts, endive, herbs of

all sorts, leeks, lettuces, onions, parsnips, potatoes, salad, savoys,

scorzonera, skirrets, shalots, spinach (winter), tomatos, turnips.

FRUIT.—Almonds. _Apples_—golden pippin, Holland pippin, Kentish pippin,

nonpareil, winter pearmain, Wheeler’s russet. Bullace, chestnuts,

hazel-nuts; grapes; medlars. _Pears_—Bergamot, Bezy de Charmontelle,

Colmar, cresan, Spanish Bon Chrétien; services, walnuts.

COOKERY FOR NOVEMBER.