BEDSTEADS may be freed from vermin by brushing them over in the cracks

with a mixture formed of one ounce of corrosive sublimate, dissolved in

half a pint of oil of turpentine, and the same quantity of any spirit,

such as strong gin or whisky; this effectually prevents their harbouring.

But when first applied, it possesses a disagreeable odour from the

turpentine, and great care must be taken with it as it is excessively

poisonous, although from its disagreeable smell it is not likely to be

swallowed accidentally. It has been found that the presence of the odour

of creosote (in vessels which have been used in carrying railway sleepers

prepared with this substance, to prevent their rotting) has effectually

driven away these enemies to our nocturnal peace. Unfortunately, the

odour of creosote is very powerful and unpleasant, but there may be cases

in which it may be applicable. On the whole, constant and unremitting

cleanliness, and the employment of iron bedsteads, which are now

manufactured of the most elegant forms, are the best means of getting rid

of these pests.

As stated in our first article, the operations of dusting, scrubbing,

&c., though in strictness, Domestic Manipulations, hardly come within

the limits of this series of papers; we pass on, therefore, to the more

important operations of disinfecting. Various means have been proposed of

lessening or utterly destroying the infectious emanations that proceed

from persons in certain diseases, and which frequently have the power of

attaching themselves with greater or less tenacity to such articles as

wearing apparel, &c. Generally speaking, the presence of a good system

of ventilation is sufficient to prevent taking any infection. When rooms

are properly aired, a disease can seldom be caught more than a few feet

from a patient; or even in the case of those most infectious disorders,

scarlet fever and small-pox, it seldom spreads more than a few yards;

but if the air of a room is confined, the infection is concentrated, and

becomes much more certain in its action.

Downy and fibrous materials readily receive infection; it may, in fact,

in many instances, be folded up in them, and so retained almost any

length of time; but if they are thoroughly exposed to a free current

of air, it is dissipated in a short time. It should be mentioned, that

infectious diseases are more readily received in certain states of the

body; thus, fear, timidity, mental anxiety; and such states of mind,

by lowering the general tone of the system, render it much more liable

to contract infectious or contagious diseases; a state of exhaustion

from bodily fatigue, or from hunger, has the same tendency. Infection

is also more readily received through the lungs than through the skin;

therefore, it is important never to receive the breath of a patient,

and, as a sailor would say, always keep to the windward side of him.

Amongst the domestic disinfectants, vinegar has a great reputation, but

undeservedly so; its only action is to overpower, by its odour, the smell

of a sick-room—as a destroyer of the peculiar influences that engender

disease, it has no power. Burning substances act in the same manner.

Burnt brown paper, fumigating pastiles, tobacco, only act by substituting

one smell for another. The ridiculous practice of carrying about a piece

of camphor is very common, and is perfectly inefficacious. If it has any

action at all, it must be an injurious one; for camphor is a stimulant,

and its constant inhalation must tend to lower the system, and so produce

the very evil it is supposed to remedy.

The best means of preventing infection, are ventilation and cleanliness

in every particular. The best means of destroying it are those powerful

chemical agents which have the power of uniting with the hydrogen which

is supposed to form part of the infectious substances. Nitric acid

gas, formed by pouring oil of vitriol on nitre or saltpetre, has been

used; but though efficacious, it possesses several disadvantages, being

irritating to the lungs, corrosive to metal-work, and also, when largely

employed, very expensive.

The most powerful, easily controlled, and in every sense the best

disinfectant, is chlorine gas. This agent at once destroys every trace

of infection in all substances submitted to its action. Its formation

is perfectly under control, and goes on in a gentle manner for days

together, without requiring care or attendance. We consider that the slow

liberation of chlorine is far superior to the employment of chloride of

lime, which gives forth the gas in a modified form.

In our own experience, we have employed it to destroy various infections,

and always with complete success. In one case of a school where scarlet

fever had returned after several attempts at purification, and in the

last instance with a fatal effect, we used chlorine, and effected the

complete removal of every trace of the disease. Various modes of

liberating chlorine are known to chemists; but, for such purposes as the

present, where a slow, uniform, and constant action is required, there

are none equal to the following plan:—One pound of common table-salt is

to be intimately mixed by stirring with an equal weight of a substance

called manganese, which may be readily obtained from any good chemist.

Small portions of this mixture should be placed in shallow pans (the

saucers of common flower-pots answer the purpose exceedingly well); and

upon them should be poured a mixture of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid)

and water, the quantity required for the above weights, viz., for one

pound of each ingredient, being two pounds of oil of vitriol and one

of water, both by weight. These should have been previously mixed in a

wooden vessel, being stirred by a wooden lath, and allowed to become cool

before being poured on the salt and manganese, as the mixing of the acid

and water generates great heat. Too much care cannot be taken with the

acid, as it is excessively corrosive in its nature, and destroys most

substances with which it comes in contact. When these materials are all

mixed, chlorine is slowly evolved for a period of three or four days, and

in so gentle a manner, that not the slightest irritating or unpleasant

effect is produced. If it is wished to cause the more rapid production

of gas, the saucer may be placed over a basin of boiling water, or upon

a hot brick; but the slow generation for a considerable length of time

is what should be more especially aimed at. It is needless to say, that

all substances supposed to have been contaminated, should be spread out

so as to receive the influence of the gas; the bed linen, and all woollen

garments, being exposed by being spread out on chairs, lines, &c.; the

drawers and cupboards opened; and whilst the disinfecting is in actual

operation, the windows and doors should be kept shut, to prevent the

dissipation of the chlorine. It is found that two ounces of manganese,

with a proportionate quantity of the other materials, is sufficient for

a room twenty feet wide, forty feet long, and twelve feet high, which

contains 20 × 40 × 12 = 9600 cubic feet.

It may be mentioned, that breathing chlorine in this highly diluted state

is decidedly the reverse of injurious to the general health; although,

in a concentrated form, or even unless very much diluted with air, it is

irritating in the highest degree; but so very innoxious is it in the very

dilute state, that it is occasionally prescribed for the inhalation of

consumptive patients.

For the satisfaction of those who rely on the authority of a great name,

it may be stated, that chlorine used in the manner here recommended

was employed, with complete success, by one of the most illustrious of

our English chemists, in the case of the Millbank Penitentiary, when a

violent and fatal disease broke out there. The operator in this case was

FARADAY, than whom there can be no higher authority.

It may occasionally be found more convenient to use another mixture

for the liberation of chlorine gas, in which case the following may be

employed:—One part of manganese is to be drenched with four parts, by

weight, of muriatic acid (the spirits of salts of the shops), mixed with

one part of water. The gas is evolved slowly in the cold, and rapidly if

assisted by a gentle heat. This process is rather more expensive, and

possesses no advantage over the one previously described.

XI.

FERMENTING AND DISTILLING.

In ordinary language, the term fermentation is employed to signify the

peculiar changes which take place when a solution of sugar, or any

vegetable substance containing saccharine matter, is converted into

spirit—this, however, is only one of many such kinds of action, which

are well known to chemists. The most important fermentations are the

saccharine fermentation, when sugar is formed by a change taking place in

starch: the vinous, when spirit is formed from sugar; and the acetous, in

which vinegar or acetic acid is formed from spirit.

The saccharine fermentation, or the formation of sugar from starch,

is interesting, though it does not influence such operations as are

included in our Domestic Manipulations. If starch is dissolved in water,

a little wheat flour added, and the whole exposed to a moderately warm

temperature, it will be found that after a few days, varying in number

with the degree of warmth, the starch has disappeared, and the liquid has

become sweet, from the formation of sugar. The same change takes place

with much greater rapidity, if starch is boiled with a solution of malt,

which contains an active principle called _diastase_, capable of bringing

about this fermentation in a short time. The formation of sugar from

starch is an operation which constantly occurs in all growing seeds, the

effect being to change an insoluble substance such as starch, into one

which is capable of being dissolved in the juices of the young plant, and

nourishing it during the early stages of its growth. In the operation

of malting barley, the change is induced artificially, for the purpose

of producing sugar in the malt, which is afterwards made to undergo the

second kind of fermentation, namely, the vinous, or that in which spirit

is produced.

When sugar, either that which naturally exists in many plants, or as

formed from starch as just mentioned, is dissolved in water, so as to

form a moderately weak solution, and the whole exposed to a degree of

warmth varying from seventy to eighty degrees, it rapidly undergoes a

remarkable change, provided a small quantity of any vegetable ferment is

present—such as yeast, or the juice of the grape or of many other fruits.

The sugar wholly disappears, and is resolved into two substances—one

a gas, termed carbonic acid, which escapes giving rise to a slow

effervescence; and the other, a portion of spirit, which remains in the

liquid. This kind of fermentation is much more difficult to prevent than

to establish; in making syrups, it is found specially annoying; for if

the quantity of sugar used is too small, the syrup is certain to ferment

and spoil; and if too much is added, it crystallizes out in the solid

form; as a general rule, however, it is found that two parts, by weight,

of sugar, to one part, by weight, of water or other liquid—such as the

juice of fruits, made into a syrup by boiling for a short time—neither

ferments nor crystallizes.

In the act of fermentation the spirit produced by the process last

described is changed into acetic acid, or vinegar. Here, also, the

presence of some substance capable of commencing the fermentation is

requisite, for pure spirit and water will not undergo the change. The

ferment employed may be the vinegar-plant—or it may be a little vinegar,

which may have been previously formed.

For the rapid progress of the acetous fermentation, a high temperature is

requisite, even as great as about eighty-six degrees, and free exposure

to air is essential. The best vinegar is that made from weak wine, at

Orleans; the plan followed is to introduce a portion of vinegar into the

vessels, adding the wine at intervals, and never quite emptying them. In

this country, a weak beer is brewed, without hops, for the purpose of

making vinegar, and a small quantity of diluted oil of vitriol is added,

after the vinegar is formed, to destroy the mouldiness that is otherwise

apt to be present. Vinegar may be formed from any weak spirituous liquid;

but it should be borne in mind that two circumstances are essential to

success, namely, a high summer temperature, either natural or artificial,

and free exposure to air.

The process of distillation is one which is used for separating liquids

from each other which boil at different degrees of heat. In domestic

economy, it is most frequently employed to obtain spirit, more or less

flavoured, or scented, with some volatile essential oil. The apparatus

commonly used is the still, for boiling the liquid to generate the

vapour, and a long spirally-twisted tube termed the worm, which is

placed in a tub of cold water, and through which the steam passes to

be condensed. The worm is the most objectionable part of the modern

still; its great evil is the difficulty with which it is cleaned, so

as to prevent one strong-flavoured substance spoiling those which are

distilled afterwards. If the coils of the worm are not very numerous, a

bullet, with a string attached, may be passed through it, and a sponge

or small bottle-brush, fastened to the string, may be worked backwards

and forwards; but if there are several coils, it will be found impossible

to do this, from the resistance caused by friction. In this case, the

only plan is to close one end of the worm with a cork, and fill it with

a solution of caustic alkali, allowing it to remain for some hours, and

repeating the application with fresh liquid, if it be required.

[Illustration: _Fig. 1._]

In Germany, the worm is being superseded by an excellent condenser, which

is so superior that we are induced to give a sketch of it, hoping that

it may lead to its adoption in this country. The vapours from the still

pass into the tube A (_Fig. 1_), by which they are conducted into B, a

hollow globe, made to unscrew at its centre. The vapours, passing along

the tube C, are condensed, and the distilled liquid drops from D. The

pipe E should convey a constant stream of cold water to the bottom of

the tub, and this, rising as it is warmed by extracting heat from the

tubes and globe, should escape by F. All the tubes being straight, it is

obvious that they can be readily cleaned from their ends.

In the laboratory, distilling is most frequently performed with vessels

termed retorts, or even from flasks; but as these are not very applicable

to domestic purposes, we pass them over.

In domestic practice, the still is usually employed to obtain some

water or spirit flavoured with essential oil, or the oil itself, and

the process should be slightly modified so as to suit each case. The

vegetable substance should not be placed on the bottom of the still

itself, as in that case it might become burnt, and so give an unpleasant

flavour to the whole; but a bottom of wickerwork should be placed in the

still in the first instance for it to rest upon, or a perforated board.

The substance to be distilled should be placed in the still, covered

with water, for some hours before the fire is lighted; no more water

being added than sufficient to cover it, if the preparation of oil is the

object.

Herbs, for distilling, should be collected on a dry day, and—unless the

oil resides in the seeds, as in the case of caraway, anise, &c., or in

the flowers, as in the rose, lavender, &c.—just before the flowers have

opened, as at that period there is the greatest quantity of essential oil

in the plant. All plants cultivated for distillation, should be grown in

a situation where they can receive a full amount of sun-light, as shade

or darkness very much tend to prevent the formation of essential oil.

[Illustration: _Fig. 2._]

The liquid which comes out of the worm, is a mixture of water highly

flavoured with the substance, and some undissolved oil; this latter is

sometimes heavier and sometimes lighter than water, either sinking or

floating; in the latter case, the oil may be readily separated by filling

a bottle with the mixture, and when the oil has collected at the top,

carrying it off by a few threads of cotton placed as in _Fig. 2_, taking

care that they are moistened with oil before arranging them. The cotton

acts as a syphon, and removes the whole of the oil. If the object of the

operation is to obtain the oil, and not the distilled water, the latter

should be preserved, and used again and again with fresh herbs, because

having in the first operation dissolved up as much oil as it is capable

of doing, it causes no loss to the subsequent distillations.

It may, perhaps, be thought that our article is incomplete, from our not

giving any particular directions as to the manufacture of spirits, both

as regards the first fermentation and subsequent distillation; but our

readers should bear in mind that the manufacture of spirit is illegal,

and the result is most frequently a heavy fine and imprisonment, to which

we have no wish that our articles should be introductory.

HOUSEHOLD RECEIPTS.—CLEANING, DYEING, RENOVATING, MENDING, PRESERVING,

ETC.

BLACKING TO PRESERVE LEATHER.—Take spermaceti oil, four ounces; molasses,

twelve ounces; mix. Add by degrees twelve ounces of ivory-black, mixing

it in smoothly, and rubbing it well, so as to leave no lumps; then add

gradually a quart of the best white-wine vinegar. If too thick, add more

vinegar; stir it hard, and let it stand in the jar three days, stirring

frequently with a round stick. Bottle it for use. If still too thick,

even when warmed at the fire, dilute with a little more vinegar.—A. S.

BLACKING FOR DRESS BOOTS AND SHOES.—Gum arabic, eight ounces; treacle,

two ounces; ink, half a pint; vinegar and spirit of wine, of each two

ounces. Dissolve the gum and treacle in the ink and vinegar; then strain

and add the spirit.

FRENCH POLISH FOR BOOTS, SHOES, AND HARNESS.—Take two pints of the best

vinegar and one pint of soft water; stir into the mixture a quarter of a

pound of glue broken fine, half a pound of logwood chips, a quarter of

an ounce of finely powdered indigo, a quarter of an ounce of the best

soft soap, and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass. Boil for ten minutes

or longer; then strain the liquid, bottle, and cork. When cold it is fit

for use. Remove the dirt from the boots, &c., with a sponge and water.

Then lay on the polish with a clean sponge. Should it prove too thick,

hold it near the fire to warm a little, and the heat will liquify it

sufficiently.—J. M.

TO DETECT DAMPNESS IN BEDS.—First have the bed well warmed with a

warming-pan; then, the moment the pan is taken out, introduce between

the sheets an inverted glass tumbler. After it has remained there a

few minutes, withdraw it. If the glass is found dry, you may go to bed

without any apprehension of chill or rheumatism. If the glass is covered

with drops of wet or damp steam, the safest plan is to take off the

sheets and sleep between the blankets, as a second pair would probably be

no better than the first.

EXPELLING INSECTS GENERALLY.—All insects dislike penny-royal; the odour

of it destroys some and drives away others. At seasons when fresh green

bunches of penny-royal are not to be obtained, get oil of penny-royal,

pour some into a saucer, and steep in it small bits of wadding or raw

cotton; lay them about in corners, closet-shelves, bureau-drawers, boxes,

and all places where you have seen cockroaches or ants, or wherever

they are likely to be found. If the insects do not speedily disappear,

renew the cotton and penny-royal. It is also well to place some of them

about the bedsteads, between the sacking and the mattress. Bunches of

penny-royal are excellent for brushing off that very annoying little

insect, the seed tick.—H. S. C.

TO DESTROY BED BUGS EFFECTUALLY.—Take two ounces of quicksilver, and

the whites of two eggs, and so on in this ratio for a larger or smaller

quantity. Beat the quicksilver and the whites together until they unite

and become a froth. With a feather then apply the compound thus formed to

the crevices and holes in your bedsteads. This done once or twice in a

year will prove effectual.—J. M.

POISON FOR BUGS.—Spirits of wine and spirits of turpentine, of each four

ounces; white mercury and camphor, of each half an ounce: mix. A chemist

will make it up; and it must be applied with a brush to the bedstead or

box infested by the insects.—J. D.

TO MAKE BOTTLES AIR-TIGHT.—This may be done without luting or grinding,

and consists in only having a groove round the neck, into which the cap

fits, so that the groove may be charged with water or mercury.

TO BOTTLE PORTER.—To four gallons of porter take three-quarters of a

pound of coarse sugar, boil it in three quarts of water five minutes,

when cool, add a tea-cup of fresh yeast. Let it work till it creams over,

then put the porter to it, and bottle off.—Mrs. H.

TO MAKE GLUE THAT WILL RESIST MOISTURE.—Dissolve gum sandarac and mastic,

of each two ounces, in a pint of spirit of wine, adding about an ounce

of clear turpentine. Then take equal parts of isinglass and parchment

glue, and having beaten the isinglass into small bits, and reduced the

glue to the same state, pour the solution of the gums upon them, and melt

the whole in a vessel well covered, avoiding so great a heat as that of

boiling water. When melted, strain the glue through a coarse linen cloth,

and then put it again over the fire, adding about an ounce of powdered

glass. This preparation may be best managed by hanging the vessel in

boiling water, which will prevent the matter burning the vessel, or the

spirit of wine from taking fire; and, indeed, it is better to use the

same method for all the evaporations of nicer glues and sizes; but in

such cases, less water than the proportion directed should be added to

the materials.—J. M.

CEMENT FOR IRON KITCHEN UTENSILS.—Take six parts of potter’s clay, and

one part of steel filings, mix them together with a sufficient quantity

of linseed oil to make a thick paste of the consistence of glazier’s

putty; then apply it to the cracked parts, on both sides, and let it

stand three or four weeks undisturbed.

JAPANESE CEMENT.—This cement is made by mixing rice flour intimately with

cold water, and then gently boiling it; it is beautifully white, and

dries almost transparent. Papers pasted together by means of this cement,

will sooner separate in their own substance than at the joining.

RICE GLUE.—Mix rice flour intimately with cold water, and gently simmer

over a fire, when it forms a delicate and durable cement, answering all

the purposes of common paste, and admirably adapted for joining paper,

card, &c., in forming the various ornaments which afford employment and

amusement to the ladies. When made of the consistence of plaster or clay,

models, busts, &c., may be formed; and the articles, when dry, are

susceptible of high polish, and are very durable.—W. C. C.

TO MEND BROKEN GLASS.—Get some cloves of garlic, tie them in a rag, and

place them in a tin pan, pounding them with a hammer, to get out the

juice. Next take the broken glass, and wet and smear each of the broken

edges with the garlic-juice; then stick them firmly together, stand the

article on a plate, and let it remain undisturbed for a fortnight. The

broken lid of a pitcher can also be mended in this manner.—J. W.

ANOTHER METHOD OF UNITING BROKEN GLASS OR CHINA.—T. S. L. N. communicates

the following, which he has tried with great success:—Obtain some slaked

lime, and put it in a small muslin bag; next get the white of an egg; rub

the pieces that require mending with it, then dust some lime upon it, and

hold together till it sticks; let it dry, and it will not be liable to be

softened by heat.

CEMENT FOR CHINA, GLASS, ETC.—To a quarter of an ounce of gum mastic, add

as much spirits of wine as will dissolve it. Soak a quarter of an ounce

of isinglass in water till it is quite soft; then dissolve it in rum or

brandy till of the consistency of glue. To this add one drachm of gum

ammoniac, well rubbed and mixed. Put now the two mixtures together in a

vessel, over a gentle heat, till properly united, and the cement is ready

for use. It should be kept in a phial well corked, and when about to be

used, to be set in boiling water to soften.

RECEIPT FOR JOINING GLASS.—Melt a little isinglass in spirits of wine,

and add a small quantity of water; warm the mixture gently over a

moderate fire. When mixed by thoroughly melting, it will form glue

perfectly transparent, which will re-unite broken glass so nicely and

firmly, that the joining will scarcely be perceptible to the most

critical eye. Lime, mixed with the white of an egg, forms a very

strong cement for glass, porcelain, &c., but it must be done neatly,

as, when hard, the superfluous part cannot easily be smoothed or taken

off.—_Scientific American._

HOW TO MAKE NICE CANDLES.—Candlewick, if steeped in lime and saltpetre,

and dried in the sun, will give a clearer light, and be less apt to

run. Good candles may be made thus: Melt together ten ounces of mutton

tallow, a quarter of an ounce of camphor, four ounces of bees’ wax, and

two ounces of alum; then run it into moulds, or dip the candles. These

candles furnish a beautiful light.—T. L.

PLAIN HINTS ABOUT CANDLES.—Candles improve by keeping a few months. Those

made in winter are the best. The most economical, as well as the most

convenient plan, is to purchase them by the box, keeping them always in

a cool dry place. If wax candles become discoloured or soiled, they may

be restored by rubbing them over with a clean flannel slightly dipped

in spirits of wine. Candles are sometimes difficult to light. They

will ignite instantly if, when preparing them for the evening, you dip

the top in spirits of wine, shortly before they are wanted. Light them

always with a match, and do not hold them to the fire, as that will cause

the tops to melt and drip. Always hold the match to the side of the

wick, and not over the top. If you find the candles too small for the

candlesticks, always wrap a small piece of white paper round the bottom

end, not allowing the paper to appear above the socket. Cut the wicks to

a convenient length for lighting (nearly close); for if the wick is too

long at the top, it will be very difficult to ignite, and will also bend

down, and set the candle to running. Glass receivers, for the droppings

of candles, are very convenient, as well as ornamental. The pieces of

candles that are left each evening, should be placed in a tin box kept

for that purpose, and used for bed-lights.

CHIMNEYS ON FIRE may be readily extinguished in several ways, without

having recourse to throwing water down them from the top, by which much

damage is frequently done to the furniture in the rooms. One of the

simplest methods is, to scatter a handful of flour of sulphur over the

dullest part of the burning coals, the mephitic vapours arising from

which will not support combustion, and consequently extinguish the

flames. Another method is to shut the doors and windows, and to stop

up the bottom of the chimney with a piece of wet carpet or blanket,

throwing a little water or flour of sulphur, or salt, on the fire

immediately before doing so. By this means the draught is stopped, and

the burning soot must be extinguished for want of air. If the chimney be

stopped at top, instead of the bottom, the whole of the smoke must, of

course, be driven into the apartment. If every fire-place were provided

with a damper or shutter, of sheet-iron or tin-plate, sufficiently

large to choke it thoroughly, fires in chimneys would become of little

consequence, as it would only be necessary to apply this damper to put

them out.

CURE FOR SMOKY CHIMNEYS.—“Some of your readers, Mr. Editor, may probably

like to know how I have cured, in my own house, that worst of evils—a

smoky chimney. The following is the plan I recommend: Inflate a large ox

bladder with air, and tie it by the neck to the middle of a stick, which

place across the inside of a chimney, about two feet from the top, or at

the foot of the chimney-pot. The buoyancy of the air keeps the bladder

continually in a circular motion, and thus prevents the rush of air into

the tunnel from descending so low as the fire-place.”—S. W. T.

EXCELLENT DYES.—A decoction of oak-bark dyes wool a fast brown of various

shades, according to the quantity employed; an infusion of walnut-peels

will also dye brown. The wool should be previously dipped in a solution

of alum and water, which brightens the colour.—For red dye: boil in a

bath of madder, previously rinsing the goods in alum; or, if you wish

for purple, employ, instead of alum, a bath of acetate of iron. Red dyes

are also given by archil, cochineal, Brazil-wood, &c.—For blue dye: boil

in a bath of logwood, to which a small quantity of blue vitriol has been

added, using the alum bath as in the other cases.—M. C.

TO DYE SILK LILAC.—For every pound of silk, take a pound and a half of

archil, mix it well with the liquor; make it boil a quarter of an hour,

dip the silk quickly, then let it cool, and wash it in river water, and a

fine half violet, or lilac, more or less full, will be obtained.

DYES FOR IVORY.—_Black._ Immerse the ivory in a boiling solution of

logwood, take it out and wash it in a solution of copperas. _Blue._

Immerse the ivory in a mixture of sulphate of indigo and water, partly

neutralized with potash. _Green._ Steep blued ivory in a solution of

nitro-muriate of tin, and then in a decoction of fustic; or it may be

at once dyed green by steeping it in a solution of acetate of copper.

_Yellow._ Steep the ivory in a bath of neutral chromate of potash, and

afterwards in a boiling solution of acetate of lead. _Red._ Steep the

ivory for a short time in a solution of tin, then in a decoction of

Brazil or cochineal. _Violet._ Moisten the ivory with a solution of tin,

as before, then immerse it in a decoction of logwood.—T. S.

TO DYE HAIR AND FEATHERS GREEN.—Take of verdigris or verditer of each one

ounce, gum water one pint; mix them well, and dip the hair or feathers

into the mixture, shaking them well about.

TO SHRINK NEW FLANNEL.—New flannel should always be shrunk or washed

before it is made up, that it may be cut out more accurately, and that

the grease which is used in manufacturing it may be extracted. First, cut

off the list along the selvage edges of the whole piece. Then put it into

warm (not boiling) water, without soap. Begin at one end of the piece,

and rub it with both hands till you come to the other end; this is to

get out the grease and the blue with which new white flannel is always

tinged. Then do the same through another water. Rinse it through a clean

lukewarm water; wring it lengthways, and stretch it well. In hanging it

out on a line do not suspend it in festoons, but spread it along the

line straight and lengthways. If dried in festoons, the edges will be in

great scollops, making it very difficult to cut out. It must be dried in

the sun. When dry let it be stretched even, clapped with the hands, and

rolled up tight and smoothly, till wanted.—H. S. C.

TO PACK GLASS OR CHINA.—Procure some soft straw or hay to pack them in,

and if they are to be sent a long way, and are heavy, the hay or straw

should be a little damp, which will prevent them slipping about. Let the

largest and heaviest things be always put undermost in the box or hamper.

Let there be plenty of straw, and pack the articles tight; but never

attempt to pack up glass or china which is of much consequence, till it

has been seen done by some one used to the job. The expense will be but

trifling to have a person to do it who understands it, and the loss may

be great if articles of such value are packed up in an improper manner.—S.

INK.—H. W. begs to recommend the following ink—with which his note is

written: Logwood and galls, each four ounces; copperas, two ounces; gum

arabic, one ounce; pomegranate bark, half an ounce; cloves, four ounces;

cold soft water, two pints: stir frequently, for two weeks or more, and

strain.—[The ink is good.—ED.]

BLACK INK.—To one gallon of soft water, add ten ounces of Aleppo galls,

and four ounces each of gum arabic and green copperas. Well bruise the

galls, and allow the mixture to stand for a fortnight, being well stirred

every day. Then add two ounces of white sugar.

BLUE INK.—Prussiate of iron, half an ounce; oxalic acid, one ounce; fine

chalk, a quarter of a drachm. All to be powdered, and dissolved with one

pint of boiling water.—S.

TO MAKE BLUE INK.—Dissolve a small quantity of indigo in a little oil of

vitriol, and add a sufficient quantity of water, in which is dissolved

some gum arabic.

INDIAN INK.—Indian ink, equal in quality to that imported from China,

may be made by holding a plate over the flame of a lamp or candle so as

to receive the fine soot, and mixing this with size made from parchment

or uncoloured leather. The Indian ink is made from fine lamp-black and

size, with the addition of a little perfume, which latter is by no means

essential to its quality as an ink.—J. W.

INDELIBLE MARKING INK, WITHOUT PREPARATION.—One drachm and a half of

nitrate of silver (lunar caustic), one ounce of distilled water, half an

ounce of strong mucilage of gum arabic, three-quarters of a drachm of

liquid ammonia; mix the above in a clean glass bottle, cork tightly and

keep in a dark place till dissolved, and ever afterwards. Directions for

use:—Shake the bottle, then dip a clean quill pen in the ink, and write

or draw what you require on the article; immediately hold it close to the

fire (without scorching), or pass a hot iron over it, and it will become

a deep and indelible black, indestructible by either time or acids of any

description.—R. S.

INCORRODIBLE AND INDELIBLE INKS.—Genuine asphaltum, one part; oil of

turpentine, four parts; dissolve, and add lamp-black or black-lead to

bring it to a proper consistence. _Or_—Asphaltum, one part; oil of

turpentine, four parts; dissolve, and colour with printer’s ink, which

any printer will sell by way of favour. These inks supply a cheap and

excellent material for marking linen, &c. They are very permanent. They

should be employed with stamps or types, or with the thin brass plates

with letters cut therein. This method of marking is neater and easier

than with the brush or pen.

SYMPATHETIC INKS.—These are preparations used for writing on paper, the

marks of which are invisible until acted upon by some re-agent. They are

frequently employed in secret or playful correspondence. By heating the

paper until it is nearly scorched, they may be rendered visible.

1. Sulphate of copper and sal-ammoniac, equal parts, dissolved in

water—writes colourless, but turns yellow when heated.

2. Onion juice, like the last.

3. A weak infusion of galls—turns black when moistened with weak copperas

water.

4. A weak solution of sulphate of iron—turns blue when moistened with a

weak solution of prussiate of potash—black with infusion of galls.

5. The diluted solutions of nitrate of silver and terchloride of

gold—darken when exposed to the sun-light.

6. Aqua-fortis, spirits of salts, oil of vitriol, common salt, or

saltpetre, dissolved in a large quantity of water—turn yellow or brown

when heated.

7. Solution of nitro-muriate of cobalt—turns green when heated, and

disappears again on cooling.

8. Solution of acetate of cobalt, to which a little nitre has been

added—becomes rose-coloured when heated, and disappears when cooling.

STAINS OF WOOD.—The most effectual way of removing stains of most

descriptions from wood, is to mix a quarter of an ounce of oil of vitriol

with two ounces of water, and rub the stained surface with a cork dipped

in this liquid, until the stains disappear: then wash with cold water.

The colour of the wood is rendered pale for a time by this method, but it

is brought up again by rubbing with furniture paste.

TO TAKE OIL AND GREASE OUT OF BOARDS, MARBLE, ETC.—Make a paste with

fuller’s earth and hot water; cover the spots therewith, let it dry on,

and the next day scour it off with soft or yellow soap. _Or_—Make a paste

with soft soap, fuller’s earth, and a little pearlash, and use it as

above.

FOR CLEANING WAINSCOTS AND OTHER PAINTED WOODS.—Four ounces of potass,

and four ounces of powdered quick-lime are to be mixed together, and

boiled for half an hour in three quarts of water; this mixture is

to stand until it is cold and quite clear; the clear liquid is then

poured off, and a painter’s brush dipped into it is to be passed over

the surface of the wood, in the same way as for painting, immediately

afterwards washing with cold water. This mode of cleaning will frequently

render a new coat of paint unnecessary, and it has the advantage of

being destructive to the eggs of insects which may be deposited in the

interstices of the wood; where there is reason to suspect that there are

bugs in the wood, it may be well, as an additional precaution, to add to

the mixture two drachms of corrosive sublimate.

CHAIRS.—The black leather-work of chairs, settees, &c., may be restored

by first well washing off the dirt with a little warm water and soap,

and afterwards with clean water. The brown and faded portions may now be

re-stained by means of a little black ink, or preferably black reviver,

and when this has got thoroughly dry, they may be touched over with white

of egg, strained and mixed with a little sugar-candy. When the latter is

nearly dry, it should be polished off with a clean dry brush.

WASHING-PAINT.—The best method to wash paint is to rub some Bath brick

fine, and when you have rubbed some soap on the flannel, dip it in

the brick. This will remove the grease and dirt speedily, without

injury.—Mrs. H.

TO MAKE OAK WOOD COLOUR.—The basis of this colour is still formed of

ceruse. Three-fourths of this oxide, and a fourth of ochre de rue, umber

earth, and yellow de Berri; the last three ingredients being employed in

proportions which lead to the required tint, give a matter equally proper

for distemper, varnish, and oil.—A. S.

TO GIVE A FINE COLOUR TO MAHOGANY.—Into a pint of cold-drawn linseed oil

put one ounce of alkanet root, and one ounce of rose-pink in an earthen

vessel; let it remain all night; then stirring it well, rub some of it

over the tables with a linen rag; when it has lain some time rub it with

a linen cloth.—R. M.

ARTIFICIAL MAHOGANY.—The following method of giving any species of wood

of a close grain the appearance of mahogany in texture, density, and

polish, is said to be practised in France with success. The surface is

planed smooth, and the wood is then rubbed with a solution of nitrous

acid; one ounce of dragon’s blood is dissolved in nearly a pint of

spirits of wine; this, and one-third of an ounce of carbonate of soda,

are then to be mixed together and filtered, and the liquid in this thin

state is to be laid on with a soft brush. This process is to be repeated,

and in a short interval afterwards the wood possesses the external

appearance of mahogany. When the polish diminishes in brilliancy, it may

be restored by the use of a little cold-drawn linseed oil.—J. R. C.

TO EXTRACT INK FROM MAHOGANY.—Dilute half a tea-spoonful of oil of

vitriol with a large spoonful of water, and apply to the ink spot with a

feather; let it lie for a few minutes and rub it off quickly; repeat if

not quite removed. An excellent receipt.—F.

TO RESTORE THE COLOUR TO MAHOGANY.—Wash well with soap and water, and

then polish daily with the following oil:—Take half an ounce of alkanet

root, cut small, and add to a pint of linseed oil: when this has stood

for a week, add half an ounce of powdered gum arabic, and an ounce of

shell-lac varnish; let these stand in a bottle by the fire for a week,

then strain. Rub well in.

WAX FOR POLISHING FURNITURE.—Melt bees’ wax in spirits of turpentine,

with a very small proportion of resin. When it is entirely dissolved, dip

in it a sponge, and wash the mahogany lightly over with it. Immediately

afterwards, rub it off with a clean soft cloth. For carved furniture,

spread the mixture on with a small soft brush, and rub it off with

another brush, a very little harder.

CREAM POLISH FOR FURNITURE.—Half an ounce of Castile soap, dissolved in

one gill of rain water, two ounces and a half of bees’ wax, one ounce of

white wax, one gill of spirit of turpentine; shred the wax, and place the

whole by the fire to dissolve; whilst warm add the soap and mix all well

together.—J. H. D.

METHOD OF GIVING A FINE BLACK COLOUR TO WOOD.—Steep the wood for two or

three days in lukewarm water, in which a little alum has been dissolved;

then put a handful of logwood, cut small into a pint of water, and boil

it down to less than half a pint. If you then add a little indigo, the

colour will be more beautiful. Spread a layer of this liquor quite hot

on your wood, with a pencil, which will give it a violet colour. When it

is dry, spread on another layer; dry it again, and give it a third; then

boil verdigris at discretion, in its own vinegar, and spread a layer of

it on the wood; when it is dry, rub it with a brush, and then with oiled

chamois skin. This gives a fine black, and imitates perfectly the colour

of ebony. Having tried this receipt successfully, I can recommend it to

the notice of your numerous readers.—E.

BLACK DYE FOR WOODS, VENEERS, ETC.—Steep the wood for two or three days,

in water, if possible, keeping it warm all the time, the water having

had a little alum dissolved in it so that it tastes rough; then put a

handful of logwood, cut small, into a pint of water and boil it down

to less than half a pint; if a little indigo is added the colour will

be more beautiful. Spread a layer of this liquor quite hot on the wood

with a brush, which will give it a violet colour. When dry spread on

another layer, dry it again and give it a third, then boil verdigris at

discretion in vinegar, and spread a layer of it on the wood; when it is

dry, rub with a brush, and then with oiled chamois skin. This forms a

good imitation of ebony wood.—W. C.

HINTS ON SCRUBBING FLOORS.—After the white-washing, paint-cleaning,

and window-washing of each room has been completed, let the floor be

scrubbed; first seeing that it has been well swept. For this purpose

have a small tub or bucket of warm water: an old saucer to hold a piece

of brown soap, a large thick tow-linen floor-cloth, and a long-handled

scrubbing-brush. Dip the whole of the floor-cloth into the water, and

with it wet a portion of the floor. Next, rub some soap on the bristles

of the brush, and scrub hard all over the wet place. Then dip your cloth

into the water, and with it wash the suds off the floor. Wring the cloth,

wet it again, and wipe the floor with it a second time. Lastly, wash the

cloth about in the water, wring it as dry as possible, and give the floor

a last and hard wiping with it. Afterwards go on to the next part of the

floor, wet it, scrub it, wipe it three times, and proceed in the same

manner, a piece, at a time, till you have gone over the whole; changing

the dirty water for clean, whenever you find it necessary. For a large

room, fresh warm water will be required four or five times in the course

of the scrubbing. When the floor has been scrubbed, leave the sashes

raised while it is drying. For scouring common floors that are very

dirty, have by you an old tin pan with some gray sand in it; and after

soaping the brush, rub it on some sand also.

OIL-CLOTHS.—In buying an oil-cloth for a floor, endeavour to obtain one

that was manufactured several years before; as the longer it has been

made previous to use, the better it will wear, from the paint becoming

hard and durable. An oil-cloth that has been made within the year, is

scarcely worth buying, as the paint will be defaced in a very little

time, it requiring a long while to season. An oil-cloth should never be

scrubbed with a brush; but, after being first swept, it should be cleaned

by washing with a large soft cloth and lukewarm or cold water. On no

account use soap, or take water that is _hot_; as either of them will

certainly bring off the paint. When it has dried, you may sponge it over

with milk, which will brighten and preserve the colours; and then wipe it

with a soft dry cloth.—J. R.

TO RENOVATE BLACK SILK.—Slice some uncooked potatoes, pour boiling water

on them; when cold sponge the right side of the silk with it, and iron on

the wrong.—E. H.

TO MAKE OLD SILK GOWNS LOOK LIKE NEW.—The best method, and one that is

employed by milliners, is to sponge over the outside of the dress with

a strong and cold infusion of black tea. The dress should afterwards be

ironed on the wrong side.—K.

AN EXCELLENT YELLOW DYE FOR SILKS, RIBBONS, ETC.—Take a large handful of

horse-radish leaves, boil them in two quarts of water for half an hour;

then drain it off from the leaves, and soak the articles you have for

dyeing in it; when you think the colour deep enough, take it out, rinse

it in cold water, and spread it to dry.—B. B.

TO IRON SILK.—Silk cannot be ironed smoothly, so as to press out all

the creases, without first sprinkling it with water, and rolling it up

tightly in a towel, letting it rest for an hour or two. If the iron is

in the least too hot, it will injure the colour, and it should first be

tried on an old piece of the same silk.—C. C.

TO RENOVATE SILKS.—Sponge faded silks with warm water and soap; then

rub them with a dry cloth on a flat board; afterwards iron them on the

_inside_ with a smoothing-iron. Old black silks may be improved by

sponging with spirits. In this case, the ironing may be done on the right

side, thin paper being spread over to prevent glazing.

TO DYE SILK, ETC., CRIMSON.—Take about a spoonful of cutbear, put it into

a small pan, pour boiling water upon it; stir and let it stand a few

minutes, then put in the silk, and turn it over in a short time, and when

the colour is full enough, take it out; but if it should require more

violet or crimson, add a spoonful or two of purple archil to some warm

water; steep, and dry it within doors. To finish it, it must be mangled,

and ought to be pressed.

SILKS STAINED BY CORROSIVE OR SHARP LIQUORS.—We often find that

lemon-juice, vinegar, oil of vitriol, and other sharp corrosives, stain

dyed garments; sometimes by adding a little pearlash to a soap lather,

and passing the silks through these, the faded colour will be restored.

Pearlash and warm water will sometimes do alone, but it is the most

efficacious method to use the soap lather and pearlash together.

CHEMICAL RENOVATING BALLS—for taking out grease, paint, pitch tar,

from silks, stuffs, linen, woollen, carpets, hats, coats, &c., without

fading the colour or injuring the cloth:—Quarter ounce of fuller’s

earth, quarter ounce of pipe-clay, one ounce salt of tartar, one ounce

beef gall, one ounce spirits of wine. Pound the hard parts, and mix the

ingredients well together. Wet the stain with cold water, rub it well

with this ball, then sponge it with a wet sponge, and the stain will

disappear.

TO CLEAN SILKS, SATINS, COLOURED WOOLLEN DRESSES, ETC.—Quarter pound of

soft soap, a quarter of a pound of honey, the white of an egg, and a

wine-glassful of gin; mix well together, and the article to be scoured

with a rather hard brush thoroughly, afterwards rinse it in cold water,

leave to drain, and iron whilst quite damp.—Mrs. J. D. R. remarks that

she finds this receipt an excellent one, having used it for a length of

time, and recommended it to friends, with perfect success.

TO CLEAN WHITE SATIN AND FLOWERED SILKS.—1. Mix sifted stale bread crumbs

with powder blue, and rub it thoroughly all over, then shake it well,

and dust it with clean soft cloths. Afterwards, where there are any

gold or silver flowers, take a piece of crimson ingrain velvet, rub the

flowers with it, which will restore them to their original lustre.—2.

Pass them through a solution of fine hard soap, at a hand heat, drawing

them through the hand. Rinse in lukewarm water, dry and finish by pinning

out. Brush the flossy or bright side with a clean clothes-brush, the way

of the nap. Finish them by dipping a sponge into a size, made by boiling

isinglass in water, and rub the wrong side. Rinse out a second time, and

brush, and dry near a fire, or in a warm room. Silks may be treated in

the same way, but not brushed.—M.

TO SMOOTH A CREASED OR RUMPLED RIBBON.—Lay the ribbon evenly on a clean

table or board, and, with a very clean sponge, damp it all over, missing

no part. Next, roll it, smoothly and tightly, on a ribbon-block that is

wider than the ribbon, and let it remain till dry. Afterwards, transfer

it to a fresh block (which must be perfectly dry), rolling it round that.

Wrap it up closely in coarse _brown_ paper, and keep it thus till you

want to use it. Ironing a ribbon is apt to discolour it, and give it a

faded look even when new. Ribbons, and other silks, should always be put

away in coarse brown paper; the chloride of lime used in manufacturing

_white_ paper frequently produces spots and stains. Coarse brown paper,

being made of old ropes picked to pieces, the tar still lingering about

them, preserves the colours of the silks.—J. T.

TO CLEAN SILK STOCKINGS.—First wash the stockings in the usual manner,

to take out the rough dirt. After rinsing them in clean water, wash

them well in fresh soap liquor. Then make a third soap liquor, which

colour with a little stone-blue; then wash the stockings once more, take

them out, wring them, and particularly dry them. Now stove them with

brimstone, and draw on a wooden leg two stockings, one upon the other,

observing that the two fronts or outsides are face to face. Polish with

a glass bottle. The two first liquors should be only lukewarm; but the

third as hot as you can bear your hand in. Blondes and gauzes may be

whitened in the same manner; but there should be a little gum put in the

last liquor before they are stoved.—B. R.

TO KEEP SILK.—Silk articles should not be kept folded in white paper, as

the chloride of lime used in bleaching the paper will probably impair the

colour of the silk. Brown or blue paper is better—the yellowish smooth

India paper is best of all. Silk intended for a dress, should not be

kept in the house long before it is made up, as lying in the folds will

have a tendency to impair its durability by causing it to cut or split,

particularly if the silk has been thickened by gum. We knew an instance

of a very elegant and costly thread lace veil being found, on its arrival

from France, cut into squares (and, therefore, destroyed) by being folded

over a paste-board card. A white satin dress should be pinned up in blue

paper, with coarse brown paper outside, sewn together at the edges.—A. F.

TO WASH SILK LACE OR BLONDE.—Take a black bottle, covered with clean

linen or muslin, and wind the blonde round it (securing the ends with a

needle and thread), not leaving the edge outward, but covering it as you

proceed. Set the bottle upright in a strong cold lather of white soap

and _very clear_ soft water, and place it in the sun, having gently, with

your hand, rubbed the suds up and down on the lace. Keep it in the sun

every day for a week, changing the lather daily, and always rubbing it

slightly when you renew the suds. At the end of the week, take the blonde

off the bottle, and (without rinsing) pin it backward and forward on a

large pillow covered with a clean tight case. Every scallop must have a

separate pin, or more, if the scallops are not very small. The plain edge

must be pinned down also, so as to make it straight and even. The pins

should be of the smallest size. When quite dry, take it off; but do not

starch, iron, or press it. Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away in

a paste-board box. Thread lace may be washed in the same manner.—A. F.

TO WASH RIBBONS, SILK HANDKERCHIEFS, ETC.—None but ribbons of excellent

quality, of one entire colour, and of a plain unfigured surface, will

bear washing. A good satin ribbon may be made to look very well by

washing it carefully, first in cold water, to which add a few drops of

spirits of wine; then make a lather of white soap and lukewarm water, and

wash the ribbon through that; afterwards rinse it in cold water, pull

it even, and dry it gradually. When dry, stretch out the ribbon on an

ironing-table (securing it to the cloth by pins), and sponge it evenly

all over with a very weak solution of isinglass, that has been boiled in

clear water and strained; or, if you have no isinglass, rice-water will

be a tolerable substitute for restoring the stiffness and gloss. To iron

the ribbon, lay it within a sheet of clean smooth letter paper (the paper

being both under and over it), and press it with a heated iron moved

quickly. If the colour is lilac, add a little dissolved pearlash to the

rinsing water; if green, a little vinegar; if pink, or blue, a few drops

of oil of vitriol; if yellow, a little tincture of saffron. Other colours

may be set by stirring a tea-spoonful of ox-gall into the first water. If

white, a salt-spoonful of cream of tartar, mixed with the soap-suds. It

is seldom worth while to take the trouble of washing ribbon, unless you

have a tolerable quantity to do. Unfigured silk handkerchiefs and scarfs

may be washed and ironed in the above manner. The proportion of spirits

of wine is about a table-spoonful to a gallon of water.—M. D.

TO CLEAN GOLD LACE.—Rub it with a soft brush, dipped in roche-alum, burnt

and sifted to a very fine powder. I have tried this several times, and

always found the lace brightened and improved by the method.—W. J. J.

TO CLEAN BLACK LACE VEILS.—These are cleansed by passing them through

a warm liquor of bullock’s gall and water; after which, they must be

rinsed in cold water, then cleansed for stiffening, and finished as

follows:—Take a small piece of glue, about the size of a bean, pour

boiling water upon it, which will dissolve it, and when dissolved, pass

the veil through it, then clap it between your hands and frame.

TO WASH A WHITE LACE VEIL.—Put the veil into a strong lather of white

soap and very clear water, and let it simmer slowly for a quarter of

an hour. Take it out and squeeze it well, but be sure not to rub it.

Rinse it in two cold waters, with a drop or two of liquid blue in the

last. Have ready some very clear and weak gum arabic water, or some

thin starch, or rice-water. Pass the veil through it, and clear it by

clapping. Then stretch it out even, and pin it to dry on a linen cloth,

making the edge as straight as possible, opening out all the scallops,

and fastening each with pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin muslin

smoothly over it, and iron it on the wrong side.—M.

TO CLEAN AND STARCH POINT LACE.—Fix the lace in a prepared tent, draw

it straight, make a warm lather of Castile soap, and, with a fine brush

dipped in, rub over the point gently; and when it is clean on one side,

do the same to the other; then throw some clean water on it, in which a

little alum has been dissolved, to take off the suds, and, having some

thin starch, go over with the same on the wrong side, and iron it on the

same side when dry; then open it with a bodkin, and set it in order. To

clean point lace, if not very dirty, without washing, fix it in a tent,

as previously mentioned, and go over with fine bread, the crust being

pared off; and when it is done, dust out the crumbs, &c.—J. H. M.

WASHING LACE.—I have lately used the following method of washing lace,

collars, or crochet collars, and find that it not only makes them look

well, but saves much of the wear and tear of other washing:—Cover a

glass bottle with calico or linen, and then tack the lace or collar

smoothly upon it, rub it with soap, and cover it with calico. Boil it for

twenty minutes in soft water; let all dry together, and the lace will be

found to be ready for use. A long piece of lace must be wound round and

round the bottle, the edge of each round a little above the last, and

a few stitches to keep it firm at the beginning and end will be found

sufficient, but a collar will require more tacking to keep it in its

place.—G. N. L.

TO WASH A BLACK LACE VEIL.—Mix bullock’s gall with sufficient hot water

to make it as warm as you can bear your hand in. Then pass the veil

through it. It must be squeezed, and not rubbed. It will be well to

perfume the gall with a little musk. Next, rinse the veil through two

cold waters, tingeing the last with indigo. Then dry it. Have ready in

a pan some stiffening made by pouring boiling water on a very small

piece of glue. Put the veil into it, squeeze it out, stretch it, and

clap it. Afterwards, pin it out to dry on a linen cloth, making it very

straight and even, and taking care to open and pin the edge very nicely.

When dry, iron it on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth over the

ironing-blanket. Any article of black lace may be washed in this manner.

TO CLEAN EMBROIDERY AND GOLD LACE.—For this purpose no alkaline liquors

are to be used; for while they clean the gold, they corrode the silk,

and change its colour. Soap also alters the shade, and even the species

of certain colours. But spirit of wine may be used without any danger

of its injuring either colour or quality; and, in many cases, proves

as effectual for restoring the lustre of the gold as the corrosive

detergents. But, though spirit of wine is the most innocent material

employed for this purpose, it is not in all cases proper. The golden

covering may be in some parts worn off; or the base metal with which it

has been alloyed may be corroded by the air, so as to leave the particles

of the gold disunited; while the silver underneath, tarnished to a yellow

hue, may continue a tolerable colour to the whole, so it is apparent that

the removal of the tarnish would be prejudicial, and make the lace or

embroidery less like gold than it was before. It is necessary that care

should be taken.—W. J. E.

TO WASH THREAD LACE.—Rip off the lace, carefully pick out the loose bits

of thread, and roll the lace very smoothly and securely round a clean

black bottle, previously covered with old white linen, sewn tightly on.

Tack each end of the lace with a needle and thread, to keep it smooth;

and be careful in wrapping not to crumple or fold in any of the scallops

or pearlings. After it is on the bottle, take some of the _best_ sweet

oil, and with a clean sponge wet the lace thoroughly to the inmost folds.

Have ready in a wash-kettle, a strong _cold_ lather of clear water and

white Castile soap. Fill the bottle with cold water, to prevent its

bursting, cork it well, and stand it upright in the suds, with a string

round the neck secured to the ears or handle of the kettle, to prevent

its knocking about and breaking while over the fire. Let it boil in the

suds for an hour or more, till the lace is clean and white all through.

Drain off the suds, and dry it on the bottle in the sun. When dry, remove

the lace from the bottle and roll it round a wide ribbon-block; or lay it

in long folds, place it within a sheet of smooth white paper, and press

it in a large book for a few days.—W. W. C.

FRUIT STAINS IN LINEN.—To remove them, rub the part on each side with

yellow soap, then tie up a piece of pearlash in the cloth, &c., and soak

well in hot water, or boil; afterwards expose the stained part to the sun

and air until removed.—K.

TO TAKE THE MILDEW OUT OF LINEN.—Take soap, and rub it well; then scrape

some fine chalk, and rub it also on the linen. Lay it on the grass. As it

dries, wet it a little, and it will come out in twice doing.—F. E. W.

TO TAKE OUT IRON-MOULDS FROM LINEN.—Rub the iron-moulds over with

sulphuret of potash; then bathe them well in citric acid (lemon acid),

and afterwards wash them well in water, and they will be completely

restored.

TO BLEACH A FADED DRESS.—Wash the dress in hot suds, and boil it until

the colour appears to be gone; then rinse it and dry it in the sun.

Should it not be rendered white by these means, lay the dress in the open

air, and bleach it for several days. If still not quite white, repeat the

boiling.

TO PRESERVE THE COLOUR OF A PRINT DRESS.—The body and train to be

separated and washed in cold rain water, into which a handful of common

salt has been thrown. Instead of spreading, it should be tightly rolled

in a coarse cloth, and allowed to remain until dry enough to iron.—E.

TO RESTORE LINEN THAT HAS LONG BEEN STAINED.—Rub the stains on each side

with wet brown soap; mix some starch to a thick paste, with cold water,

and spread it over the soaped places; then expose the linen to the air,

and if the stains have not disappeared in three or four days, rub off the

mixture, and repeat the process with fresh soap and starch. Afterwards

dry it, wet it with cold water, and put it in the wash.

TO WASH MOUSSELINE-DE-LAINE.—Boil a pound of rice in five quarts of

water, and, when cool enough, wash in this, using the rice for soap. Have

another quantity ready, but strain the rice from this and use it with

warm water, keeping the rice strained off for a third washing, which at

the same time stiffens and also brightens the colours.—W.

TO PREVENT COLOURED THINGS FROM RUNNING.—Boil a quarter of a pound of

soap till nearly dissolved, then add a small piece of alum and boil with

it. Wash the things in this lather, but do not soap them. If they require

a second water, put alum to that also, as well as to the swilling and

blue-water. This will preserve them.

STAIN MIXTURE.—Take an ounce of sal-ammoniac (or hartshorn), and an ounce

of salt of tartar—mix them well, put them into a pint of soft water,

and bottle it for use, keeping it very tightly corked. Pour a little of

this liquid into a saucer, and wash in it those parts of a white article

that have been stained with ink, mildew, fruit, or red wine. When the

stains have by this process been removed, wash the article in the usual

manner.—M. C.

TO RESTORE SCORCHED LINEN.—Take two onions, peel and slice them, and

extract the juice by squeezing or pounding. Then cut up half an ounce of

white soap, and two ounces of fuller’s earth; mix with them the onion

juice, and half a pint of vinegar. Boil this composition well, and spread

it when cool, over the scorched part of the linen, leaving it to dry

thereon. Afterwards wash out the linen.

TO WHITEN LINEN THAT HAS TURNED YELLOW.—Cut up a pound of fine white soap

into a gallon of milk, and hang it over the fire in a wash-kettle. When

the soap has entirely melted, put in the linen, and boil it half an hour.

Then take it out; have ready a lather of soap and warm water; wash the

linen in it and then rinse it through two cold waters, with a very little

blue in the last.—J. W.

TO TAKE OUT PAINT FROM A DRESS.—After a paint-spot has dried, it is

extremely difficult to remove it. When fresh (having wiped off as much

as you can), it may be taken out by repeated applications of spirits of

turpentine or of spirits of wine, rubbed with a soft rag or a flannel.

Ether also will efface it, if applied immediately. If the paint has been

allowed to harden, nothing will take it off but spirits of turpentine,

rubbed on with perseverance.

TO RENEW SCORCHED OR BROWNED LINEN.—This is an accident attributable

entirely to the ignorance of the laundress, in not knowing how to

regulate the heat of her irons. To remedy this:—Add to a quart of

vinegar, the juice of half a dozen large onions, about an ounce of soap

rasped down, a quarter of a pound of fuller’s earth, one ounce of lime,

and one ounce of pearlash, or any other strong alkali. Boil the whole

until it is pretty thick, and lay some of it on the scorched part,

suffering it to dry. It will be found that, on repeating this process

for one or two washings, the scorch will be completely removed from the

linen without any additional damage; provided its texture has not been

absolutely injured, as well as discoloured.—H. W.

TO REMOVE STAINS OF WINE OR FRUIT FROM TABLE-LINEN.—A wine stain may

sometimes be removed by rubbing it, while wet, with common salt. It is

said, also, that sherry wine poured immediately on a place where port

wine has been spilled, will prevent its leaving a stain. A _certain_ way

of extracting fruit or wine stains from table-linen is to tie up some

cream of tartar in the stained part (so as to form a sort of bag), and

then to put the linen into a lather of soap and cold water, and boil it

awhile. Then transfer it wet to lukewarm suds, wash and rinse it well,

and dry and iron it. The stains will disappear during the process.

Another way, is to mix, in equal quantities, soft soap, slaked lime,

and pearlash. Rub the stain with this preparation, and expose the linen

to the sun with the mixture plastered on it. If necessary, repeat the

application. As soon as the stain has disappeared, wash out the linen

immediately, as it will be injured if the mixture is left in it.—E. D.

TO WASH CHINTZ.—Many ladies will be glad to know how chintz may be

washed so as to preserve its gloss and beauty. The following are the

directions:—Take two pounds of rice, and boil it in two gallons of water

till soft; when done, pour the whole into a tub: let it stand till about

the warmth you in general use for coloured linens; then put the chintz

in, and use the rice instead of soap; wash it in this till the dirt

appears to be out; then boil the same quantity as above, but strain the

rice from the water, and mix it in warm clear water. Wash in this till

quite clean; afterwards rinse it in the water you have boiled the rice

in, and this will answer the end of starch, and no dew will affect it,

as it will be stiff as long as you wear it. If a gown, it must be taken

to pieces; and when dried, be careful to hang it as smooth as possible;

after it is dry, rub it with a sleek stone, but use no iron.

TO PRESERVE THE COLOUR OF DRESSES.—The colours of merinos,

mousselines-de-laine, gingham, chintzes, printed lawns, &c., may be

preserved by using water that is only milk-warm; making a lather with

white soap, _before_ you put in the dress, instead of rubbing it on the

material; and stirring into a first and second tub of water a large

table-spoonful of ox-gall. The gall can be obtained from the butcher, and

a bottle of it should always be kept in every house. No coloured articles

should be allowed to remain long in the water. They must be washed fast,

and then rinsed through two cold waters. Into each rinsing water, stir

a tea-spoonful of vinegar, which will help to brighten the colours; and

after rinsing, hang them out immediately. When _ironing-dry_, (or still

a little damp), bring them in; have irons ready heated, and iron them at

once, as it injures the colours to allow them to remain damp too long,

or to sprinkle and roll them up in a covering for ironing next day. If

they cannot be conveniently ironed immediately, let them hang till they

are _quite_ dry; and then damp and fold them on the _following day_, a

quarter of an hour before ironing. The best way is not to do coloured

dresses on the day of the general wash, but to give them a morning by

themselves. They should only be undertaken in clear bright weather. If

allowed to freeze, the colours will be irreparably injured. We need

scarcely say that no coloured articles should ever be boiled or scalded.

If you get from a shop a slip for testing the durability of colours,

give it a fair trial by washing it as above; afterwards pinning it to

the edge of a towel, and hanging it to dry. Some colours, (especially

pinks and light greens), though they may stand perfectly well in washing,

will change as soon as a warm iron is applied to them; the pink turning

purplish, and the green bluish. No coloured article should be smoothed

with a _hot_ iron.—A. F. H.

TO PRESERVE FURS.—When laying up muffs and tippets for the summer, if a

tallow candle be placed on or near them, all danger of caterpillars will

be obviated.

TO CLEAN ERMINE AND MINIVAR FUR.—Take a piece of soft flannel, and rub

the fur well with it (but remember that the rubbing must be always

against the grain); then rub the fur with common flour until clean. Shake

it well, and rub again with the flannel till all the flour is out of it.

I have had a Minivar boa for four years. It has never been cleaned with

anything but flour, and is not in the least injured by the rubbing. It

was a school companion who told me that her aunt (a Russian lady), always

cleaned her white furs with flour, and that they looked quite beautiful.

It has one advantage—the lining does not require to be taken out, and it

only requires a little trouble. Ermine takes longer than Minivar. The

latter is very easily done.—A. B.

ON THE METHOD OF MAKING MUFFS AND TIPPETS, FROM THE PLUMAGE AND SKINS OF

BIRDS.—We are indebted to a Frenchman for having brought to perfection

this useful and ornamental art. Domestic animals of all the feathered

kinds afford the materials of which these articles may be made; but those

with rich variegated colours, for gay wear, as they are less liable

to decay than the sable coverings of birds of prey, would no doubt be

preferred. Above all, those animals should be selected whose plumage lies

close and smooth upon their backs, for obvious reasons. Diseased birds,

or those killed in moulting time, are to be rejected, as the feathers

would drop off at no distant period; the birds must therefore be killed

in good health, and the skin carefully stripped off soon after their

death, especially when the weather is hot; otherwise the same effects

would be produced from corruption as from disease. When the skin has been

freed from its impurities, it is spread upon a small table, the plumage

downwards, the feathers having been previously arranged over each other,

according to the natural order. To keep it well stretched, tacks or pins

may be driven in, or threads passed down underneath the table. Next clean

away the grease or fleshy parts that remain, and close up the rents, if

any; the skin is then covered with a size made of glue, in which a small

quantity of common salt and a glass of white wine have been mixed up, to

bring it to the proper consistency. The skin, thus covered, being exposed

to the direct action of the wind, the glue will begin to scale off, and

the whole must be scraped away. Should any dampness still remain on the

skin, apply the glue once more, dry, and scrape it as before. When well

dried, the skin is to be placed away in a box, in which dried wormwood

(absynthe), aloes, or some other bitter vegetable is placed. The skins of

large, or rank feeding birds, require vinegar and salt to be dissolved

in the glue, and the whole to be passed over with a solution of alum.

The women of Hudson’s Bay prepare cloaks for their husbands in this way,

which naturally resist all kinds of weather, and are an admirable defence

against sleet in particular. They constantly boast that “the animals have

all been killed by their own hands,” and this is indeed necessary to the

preservation of the dress, as the feathers which come away in moulting,

or through disease, would decay. A coarse linen shape is stretched out,

and the feathers, having the quill part thrust through its meshes, are

attached on the wrong side by needle and thread, and then lined with

baize. Some sort of pattern, or _patchwork_, is generally attempted

by arranging the feathers, which may be improved upon by our fair

countrywomen, especially with the deeply-coloured and variegated tinted

plumage of South American or Brazilian birds.—E. A.

TO CLEAN KID GLOVES.—First see that your hands are clean, then put on

the gloves, and wash them, as though you were washing your hands, in a

basin of spirits of turpentine, until quite clean; then hang them up in

a warm place, or where there is a good current of air, which will carry

off all smell of the turpentine. This method was brought from Paris, and

thousands of pounds have been made by it.

TO CLEAN WHITE KID GLOVES.—Stretch them on a board, and rub the soiled

spots with cream of tartar or magnesia. Let them rest an hour. Take a

mixture of alum and fuller’s earth, in powder, and rub it all over the

gloves with a clean brush, and let them rest for an hour or two. Then

sweep it all off, and go over with a flannel dipped in a mixture of bran

and finely powdered whiting. Let them rest another hour; brush off the

powder, and you will find them clean.—A. F.

TO CLEAN COLOURED KID GLOVES.—Have ready on a table a clean towel, folded

three or four times, a saucer of new milk, and another saucer with a

piece of brown soap. Take one glove at a time, and spread it smoothly on

the folded towel. Then dip in the milk a piece of clean flannel, rub it

on the soap till you get off a tolerable quantity, and then, with the

wet flannel, commence rubbing the glove. Begin at the wrist, and rub

lengthways towards the end of the fingers, holding the glove firmly in

your right hand. Continue this process until the glove is well cleaned

all over with the milk and soap. When done, spread them out, and pin them

on a line to dry gradually. When nearly dry, pull them out evenly, the

cross-way of the leather. When quite dry, stretch them on your hands.

White kid gloves may also be washed in this manner, provided they have

never been cleaned with India-rubber.

AN EXCELLENT PASTE FOR GLOVES.—Liquor of ammonia half an ounce, chloride

of potash ten ounces, curd soap one pound, water half a pint; dissolve

the soap in the water, with a gentle heat, then as the mixture cools,

stir in the other ingredients. Use it, by rubbing it over the gloves

until the dirt is removed.

TO CLEAN WHITE OR COLOURED KID GLOVES.—Put the glove on your hand, then

take a small piece of flannel, dip it in camphine, and well but gently

rub it over the glove, _taking care not to make it too wet_; when the

dirt is removed, dip the flannel (or another piece, if that is become

dirty) in the pipe-clay and rub it over the glove; take it off, and

hang it up in a room to dry, and in a day or two very little smell will

remain; and if done carefully they will be almost as good as new. In

coloured ones, if yellow, use gamboge after the pipe-clay, and for other

colours match it in dry paint. I have tried the other plans recommended

in many publications, and have not found them answer at all. Turpentine

_may_ do as well, but I have not tried it.—A. S.

TO CLEAN WASH-LEATHER GLOVES.—First take out the grease spots with

magnesia, or cream of tartar. Then wash and squeeze them through a lather

of white soap and lukewarm water; hot water will shrink them. Squeeze

them through second suds; rinse them first in lukewarm and then in cold

water, and stretch them to dry before the fire or in the sun.

ANOTHER.—Having removed the grease spots, take the gloves, one at a

time, on your hands, and rub them with a clean sponge wet with lukewarm

soap-suds. Wash off the suds with a sponge and clear water, and stretch

the gloves to dry. When almost dry, put them on your hands until

finished, which will prevent them from shrinking.—A. F.

TO CLEAN BUCKSKIN GLOVES.—First wash in warm water and soap, until the

dirt is removed; then pull them out into their proper shape, or stretch

them on wooden hands. Do not wring them, but place one on the other, and

press the water out. Mix a little pipe-clay, or pipe-clay and yellow

ochre, according to the colour required, with vinegar or beer. Rub this

over the outside of the gloves, and let them dry gradually in the shade;

or if in the house, not too near the fire. When about half-dry, rub them

well and stretch them on the hand or wooden mould; after they are rubbed

and dried, brush them with a soft brush to get out the dust. Finally,

iron the gloves with a smoothing-iron moderately heated, taking the

precaution to place a cloth or piece of paper over them, and they will

look like new. Tanned gloves, commonly called Limerick, are genteel and

economical in spring and autumn, as they do not soil so soon as white.

The tan colour is made by infusing saffron in boiling water for about

twelve hours, and rubbing the stuff over the leather with a brush. The

water should be soft, and never applied to leather in any case at more

than blood heat.—M.

TO REMOVE STAINS FROM MORNING DRESSES.—Boil a handful of fig leaves in

two quarts of water until reduced to a pint. Squeeze the leaves, and put

the liquor into a bottle for use. Bombazines, crape, cloth, &c., need

only be rubbed with a sponge dipped in this liquor, and the effect will

be instantly produced. If any reason exists to prevent the substance from

being wetted, then apply French chalk, which will absorb the grease from

the finest texture without injury.

TO REMOVE WATER STAINS FROM BLACK CRAPE.—When a drop of water falls on

a black crape veil or collar, it leaves a conspicuous white mark. To

obliterate this, spread the crape on a table (laying on it a large book

or a paper-weight to keep it steady), and place underneath the stain a

piece of old black silk. With a large camel’s hair brush dipped in common

ink, go over the stain; and then wipe off the ink with a little bit of

old soft silk. It will dry immediately, and the white mark will be seen

no more.—J. G.

TO RAISE THE PILE OF VELVET WHEN PRESSED DOWN.—Cover a hot smoothing-iron

with a wet cloth, and hold the velvet firmly over it; the vapour arising

will raise the pile of the velvet with the assistance of a light whisk.

TO RESTORE VELVET.—When velvet gets plushed from pressure, holding the

reverse side over a basin of boiling water will raise the pile, and

perhaps it may also succeed in the case of wet from rain.

TO IRON VELVET.—Having ripped the velvet apart, damp each piece

separately, and holding it tightly in both hands, stretch it before the

fire, the wrong side of the velvet being towards the fire. This will

remove the creases, and give the surface of the material a fresh and new

appearance. Velvet cannot be ironed on a table, for when spread out on a

hard substance, the iron will not go smoothly over the pile.

SCOURING BALLS TO REMOVE GREASE, ETC., FROM CLOTH.—Soft soap and fuller’s

earth, of each half a pound; beat them well together in a mortar, and

form into cakes. The spot first moistened with water, is rubbed with

a cake, and allowed to dry, when it is well rubbed with a little warm

water, and afterwards rinsed or rubbed off clean.

TO TAKE FRESH PAINT OUT OF A COAT.—Take immediately a piece of cloth, and

rub the wrong side of it on the paint-spot. If no other cloth is at hand,

part of the inside of the coat-skirt will do. This simple application

will generally remove the paint when quite fresh. Otherwise, rub some

ether on the spot with your finger.

TO RENOVATE A BLACK COAT.—Boil half a pound of logwood and some copperas

chips in three pints of water, until reduced to a quart. When cold,

strain it; and add a wine-glass full of gin, and half that quantity of

spirits of wine. Mix well; apply it to the cloth with a nail-brush, and

when dry, brush with a soft brush.—T. S.

TO TAKE CARE OF BEAVER HATS.—A hat should be brushed every day with a

hat-brush; and twice a day in dusty weather. When a hat gets wet, wipe

it as dry as you can with a clean handkerchief, and then brush it with a

soft brush, before you put it to dry. When nearly dry, go over it with a

harder brush. If it still looks rough, damp it with a sponge dipped in

vinegar or stale beer, and brush it with a hard brush till dry.—J. C. H.

WET CLOTHES.—Handle a wet hat as lightly as possible. Wipe it as dry as

you can with a silk handkerchief; and when nearly dry, use a soft brush.

If the fur stick together in any part, damp it lightly with a sponge

dipped in beer or vinegar, and then brush it till dry. Put the stick or

stretcher into a damp hat, to keep it in proper shape. When a coat gets

wet, wipe it down the way of the nap, with a sponge or silk handkerchief.

Do not put wet boots or shoes near the fire.

TO PREVENT MOTHS ATTACKING CLOTHES.—1. Procure shavings of cedar-wood,

and enclose in muslin bags, which should be distributed freely among the

clothes.—2. Procure shavings of camphor wood, and enclose in bags.—3.

Sprinkle pimento (allspice) berries among the clothes.—4. Sprinkle the

clothes with the seeds of the musk plant.—5. To destroy the eggs when

deposited in woollen cloth, &c., use a solution of acetate of potash in

spirits of rosemary—fifteen grains to the pint.—K.

CLOTHES BALLS.—Take four ounces of fuller’s earth, dried so as to

crumble into powder, and mix with it half an ounce of pearlash. Wet

it with a sufficiency of lemon-juice to work it into a stiff paste.

Then form it into balls, and dry them in the sun, or on the top of a

moderately warm stove. When quite dry, put them away for use. They will

be found efficacious in removing grease spots and stains from articles

of clothing, first wetting the spot with cold water, and then rubbing on

the ball; afterwards drying the place in the sun or by the fire, and then

washing it off with a sponge and clean water.

TO TAKE OUT MILDEW FROM CLOTHES.—Mix some soft soap with powdered starch,

half as much salt, and the juice of a lemon, lay it on the part with

a brush, let it be exposed in the air day and night, until the stain

disappears. Iron-moulds may be removed by the salt of lemon. Many stains

in linen may be taken out by dipping linen in sour buttermilk, and then

drying it in the sun; afterwards wash it in cold water several times.

Stains caused by acids may be removed by tying some pearlash up in the

stained part; scrape some soap in cold soft water, and boil the linen

till the stain is gone.—J. K.

TO RENOVATE BLACK CLOTH CLOTHES.—Clean the garments well, then boil four

ounces of logwood in a boiler or copper containing two or three gallons

of water for half an hour; dip the clothes in warm water, and squeeze

dry, then put them into the copper and boil for half an hour. Take them

out, and add three drachms of sulphate of iron; boil for half an hour,

then take them out, and hang them up for an hour or two; take them down,

rinse in three cold waters, dry well, and rub with a soft brush which

has had a few drops of olive oil rubbed on its surface. If the clothes

are threadbare about the elbows, cuffs, &c., raise the nap with a teazle

or half-worn hatter’s card, filled with flocks, and when sufficiently

raised, lay the nap the right way with a hard brush.—K.

TO FOLD A COAT FOR PACKING.—Lay the coat at its full length upon a

table, with the collar towards the left hand; pull out the collar so

as to make it lie quite straight; turn up the coat towards the collar,

letting the crease be just at the elbow; let the lappel or breast on

one side be turned smoothly back on the arm and sleeves. Turn the skirt

over the lappel, so that the end of the skirt will reach to the collar,

and the crease or folding will be just where the skirts part at the

termination of the waist. When you have done on one side, do the same

on the other. Turn the collar towards the right hand, and fold one

skirt over the other, observing to let the fold be in the middle of the

collar.—J. S. C.

TO BRUSH CLOTHES.—Have a wooden horse to put the clothes on, and a small

cane to beat the dust out of them; also a board or table long enough for

them to be put their whole length when brushing them. Have two brushes,

one a hard bristle, the other soft; use the hardest for the great coats,

and the other for the others when spotted with dirt. Fine cloth coats

should never be brushed with too hard a brush; this will take off the

nap, and make them look bare in a little time. Be careful in the choice

of the cane; do not have it too large, and be particular not to hit it

too hard; be careful also not to hit the buttons, for it will scratch, if

not break them; therefore a small hand-whip is the best to beat with. If

a coat be wet, and spotted with dirt, let it be quite dry before brushing

it; then rub out the spots with the hands, taking care not to rumple it

in so doing. If it want beating, do it as before directed; then put the

coat at its full length on a board; let the collar be towards the left

hand, and the brush in the right: brush the back of the collar first,

between the two shoulders next, and then the sleeves, &c., observing to

brush the cloth the same way that the nap goes, which is towards the

skirt of the coat. When both sides are properly done, fold them together;

then brush the inside, and last of all the collar.—W. C.

TO WASH FLANNELS.—Put the flannel into a pan and pour boiling water upon

it. Then make a lather as hot as the hands can bear, take the flannel and

wash it as quickly as possible. Done in this way, flannel remains almost

as soft as new, and is of a good colour.—W. R.

FLANNELS.—All flannels should be soaked before they are made up; first

in cold, then in hot water, in order to shrink them. Welsh flannel is

the softest, and should be preferred, if to be worn next the skin; but

Lancashire flannel looks finer, lasts longer, and should, therefore, be

selected when the above is not its destination. Flannel under-garments

should be frequently changed, because they imbibe perspiration, which is

liable to be absorbed again into the system, and this is injurious. All

flannel vestments that are made full, should be _gathered, not plaited_;

because, in the latter case, they become thick and matted by washing; and

in the event of their being turned from top to bottom in order to alter

the wear, the part that had been plaited will be found to be so drawn and

injured, that two or three inches of it must be cut off.—W.

TO CLEAN CUT-GLASS.—Having washed cut-glass articles, let them

thoroughly dry, and afterwards rub them with prepared chalk and a soft

brush, carefully going into all the flutings and cavities.

TO CLEAN DECANTERS.—Rinse the bottles, and put a piece of lighted coarse

brown paper into each: then place the stoppers or corks in, and when the

smoke disappears wash the bottles clean. This will remove all stains, but

if the decanters are very dirty, this process should be repeated until

they are fit for use.—A.

ANOTHER.—Cut some raw potatoes in pieces, put them in the bottle with a

little cold water, rinse them, and they will look very clean.—E. C.

TO CLEAN PORCELAIN OR GLASS-WARE.—The best material for this purpose is

fuller’s earth, but it must be beaten into a fine powder, and carefully

cleared from all rough and hard particles, which might endanger the

polish of the brilliant surface. In cleaning porcelain, it must also be

observed that some species require more care and attention than others,

as china-ware in common use frequently loses some of its colours. The

red, especially of vermilion, is the first to go, because that colour,

together with some others, is laid on by the Chinese after burning.—W. J.

J.

TO WASH PHIALS.—In most families are gradually collected a number of

phials that have been used for medicine. It is well to have a basket

purposely to keep them in, and occasionally to wash them all, that they

may be ready to send to the druggist’s when new medicine is wanted. Put

into a wash-kettle some sifted ashes, and pour into it a sufficiency of

cold water. Then put in the phials (without corks), place the kettle

over the fire, and let it gradually come to a boil. After it has boiled

a while, take it off, and set it aside; letting the phials remain in it

till cold. Then take them out, rinse, drain them, and wipe the outsides.

You may wash black bottles in the same manner. If you have occasion

to wash a single phial or bottle, pour into it through a small funnel

either some lye, or some lukewarm water in which a little pearlash has

been dissolved; shake it, and let it stand awhile to soak. Then rinse it

well in cold water two or three times. If it still smells of the former

contents, soak it in more pearlash water (with the addition of a little

lime), or in more lye.

TO CLEAN LOOKING-GLASSES, MIRRORS, ETC.—If they should be hung so high

that they cannot be conveniently reached, have a pair of steps to stand

upon; but mind that they stand steady. Then take a piece of soft sponge,

well washed and cleaned from everything gritty, just dip it into water

and squeeze it out again, and then dip it into spirit of wine. Rub it

over the glass; dust it over with some powder blue, or whiting sifted

through muslin: rub it lightly and quickly off again, with a cloth; then

take a clean cloth, and rub it well again, and finish by rubbing it with

a silk handkerchief. If the glass be very large, clean one-half at a

time, as otherwise the spirit of wine will dry before it can be rubbed

off. If the frames are not varnished, the greatest care is necessary to

keep them quite dry, so as not to touch them with the sponge, as this

will discolour or take off the gilding. To clean the frames, take a

little raw cotton in the state of wool, and rub the frames with it; this

will take off all the dust and dirt without injuring the gilding. If the

frames are well varnished, rub them with spirits of wine, which will take

out all spots, and give them a fine polish. Varnished doors may be done

in the same manner. Never use any cloth to _frames_ or _drawings_, or

unvarnished oil paintings, when cleaning and dusting them.—J. G.

TO CLEAN TIN COVERS.—Boil some rotten-stone and a small quantity of

prepared whiting in some sweet oil for two hours, till it acquires the

consistency of cream.

CLOTHS FOR CLEANING AND POLISHING SILVER PLATE.—Take two ounces of

hartshorn powder, and boil in a pint of water, soak small squares of

damask cloth in the liquid, hang them up to dry, and then they will be

fit for use.—W. C. C.

TO REMOVE BLACK SPOTS FROM PLATE.—Boil the articles in three pints of

water with an ounce of calcined hartshorn; drain, dry by the fire, and

polish with soft linen rags which have been boiled in the same liquid and

afterwards dried; using purified whiting as the plate powder.—H.

METHOD OF CLEANING BRASS ORNAMENTS.—Brass ornaments, that have not

been gilt or lacquered, may be cleaned, and a very brilliant colour

given to them, by washing them with alum boiled in strong lye, in the

proportion of an ounce to a pint, and afterwards rubbing them with strong

tripoli.—J. J.

TO PRESERVE STEEL GOODS.—Caoutchouc, one part; turpentine, sixteen

parts. Dissolve with a gentle heat, then add boiled oil, eight parts.

Mix by bringing them to the heat of boiling water; apply it to the steel

with a brush, in the way of varnish. It may be removed, when dry, with

turpentine. The oil may be wholly omitted.—M.

TO REMOVE INK STAINS FROM SILVER.—The tops and other portions of silver

inkstands frequently become deeply discoloured with ink, which is

difficult to remove by ordinary means. It may, however, be completely

eradicated by making a little chloride of lime into a paste with water,

and rubbing it upon the stains. Chloride of lime has been misnamed “the

general bleacher,” but it is a foul enemy to all metallic surfaces.

TO CLEAN GERMAN SILVER.—After using, it should be placed immediately in

hot water, washed well, and wiped dry with a soft cloth. Once a week,

let it be washed in soap-suds, and then cleaned with fine whiting, or

prepared chalk, mixed with whisky or spirits of wine, so as to make a

paste, which should afterwards be brushed off. Should this metal become

discoloured, or spotted by vinegar or other acids, wash it first, and

then clean it with sweet oil and powdered rotten-stone.

TO PRESERVE BRASS ORNAMENTS.—Brass ornaments, when not gilt or lacquered,

may be cleaned in the same way, and a fine colour may be given to them

by two simple processes. The first is to beat sal-ammoniac into a fine

powder, then to moisten it with soft water, rubbing it on the ornaments,

which must be heated over charcoal, and rubbed dry with bran and whiting.

The second is to wash the brass-work with roche-alum boiled in strong

lye, in the proportion of an ounce to a pint; when dry, it must be rubbed

with fine tripoli. Either of these processes will give to brass the

brilliancy of gold.—J. R.

CLEANING KETTLES AND SAUCEPANS.—The following is a useful receipt for

cleaning the inside of kettles or saucepans of the hard stony substance,

resulting from continually boiling hard water, which may not be generally

known:—In a kettle of boiling water, put about the sixteenth part of an

ounce of sal-ammoniac, or two-pennyworth, which can be obtained from any

chemist. Let it boil one hour, and then the petrified substance will be

dissolved, and is readily disengaged from the metal. A great saving of

time and trouble will be effected in heating the water.—W. M.

TO CLEAN SILVER.—When silver has become much tarnished, spotted, or

discoloured, it may be restored by the following process. Having

dissolved two tea-spoonfuls of powdered alum in a quart of moderately

strong lye, stir in a gill of soft soap, and remove the scum or dross

that may rise to the surface. After washing the silver in hot water, take

a sponge and cover every article all over with this mixture. Let the

things rest about a quarter of an hour, frequently turning them. Next

wash them off in warm soap-suds, and wipe them dry with a soft cloth.

Afterwards brighten them with rouge-powder, or with whiting and spirits

of wine.—J. S. C.

TO CLEAN THE RUST FROM IRON OR STEEL.—Scrape off as much of the rust as

you can. Then grease the iron all over with lamp oil (any other oil will

do), rubbing it in well. Put the iron in a place where it will be out of

the way, and let it rest for two or three days, or more. Then wipe off

the oil, as thoroughly as possible, and rub the iron with sand-paper till

it is perfectly cleaned from the grease. Sand-paper is to be had at any

oil or Italian warehouse, its price is usually a penny or three halfpence

a sheet. For want of oil or sand-paper, rusty iron may be cleaned

tolerably well by greasing it with a bit of pork-fat, and afterwards

rubbing it with common sand.

TO PRESERVE POLISHED IRONS FROM RUST.—Polished iron-work may be preserved

from rust by a mixture not very expensive, consisting of copal varnish

intimately mixed with as much olive oil as will give it a degree of

greasiness, adding thereto nearly as much spirit of turpentine as

of varnish. The cast iron work is best preserved by rubbing it with

black-lead. But where rust has begun to make its appearance on grates or

fire-irons, apply a mixture of tripoli with half its quantity of sulphur,

intimately mingled on a marble slab, and laid on with a piece of soft

leather: or emery and oil may be applied with excellent effect; not laid

on in the usual slovenly way, but with a spongy piece of the fig-tree

fully saturated with the mixture. This will not only clean but polish,

and render the use of whiting unnecessary.—M. B.

TO CLEAN BRASS, LACQUERED WORK, ETC.—For this purpose, some persons

employ a mixture of finely powdered glass and red lead. Powdered

charcoal substituted for the latter will be an improvement. It will

polish brass or copper in very little time, and would do well for

cleaning lacquered work.

TO CLEAN CANDLESTICKS, SNUFFERS, ETC.—Silver, plated, and japanned

candlesticks, snuffers and snuffer-stands, should be cleaned by first

removing the drops of wax or tallow that may have fallen on them by

washing in boiling hot water, afterwards wiping them quite dry and clean

with a piece of soft wash-leather. If made of silver, or copper-plated,

they may be finished off with a little plate powder. On no account place

them before the fire to melt the grease off, as much heat will melt off

the solder or japan, or injure the face of the plate. In placing the

candles in the sockets fit them in tightly, either by means of a strip of

paper wound round them, or by the ordinary candle-springs; they will thus

be prevented from falling about and spilling the melted portion of the

tallow or other materials of which they may be composed.

STAINS OF METALS.—When metals are rusty, or covered with verdigris, which

has entered the substance, they are to be rubbed with sand or emery, or

even filed, if the oxidation be deep; the polish is then to be restored

by an impalpable powder of emery, moistened with oil, and cleaned off

with a leather covered with whiting. Silver, gold, or tin, which is

stained by any sulphurous emanation, should first be washed with water

slightly acidulated with vinegar, and then rubbed with fine tripoli or

whiting. Almost all the powder which is sold for cleaning plate is mixed

with mercury, and is therefore in some degree objectionable. The fine

colcothar of vitriol used by painters, is, however, a good plate powder.

Another and very excellent mode of cleaning plate, is to rub it, after

having washed it clean, with a piece of cloth prepared in the following

manner:—Cut a yard of coarse calico into four, and boil it in a quart of

water with two ounces of calcined, powdered, and sifted hartshorn, till

all the liquid is absorbed.

TO REMOVE IRON-MOULDS.—Rub the spot with a little powdered oxalic acid,

or salts of lemon and warm water. Let it remain a few minutes, and well

rinse in clear water.

TO REMOVE INK-STAINS FROM PRINTED BOOKS, ETC.—Procure a pennyworth of

oxalic acid, which dissolve in a small quantity of warm water, then

slightly wet the stain with it, when it will disappear, leaving the text

uninjured.—A. L.

TO REMOVE INK OR FRUIT STAINS FROM THE FINGERS.—Cream of tartar, half an

ounce; powdered salt of sorrel, half an ounce. Mix. This is what is sold

for salts of lemon.

TO REMOVE STAINS AND MARKS FROM BOOKS.—A solution of oxalic acid, citric

acid, or tartaric acid, is attended with the least risk, and may be

applied upon the paper and prints without fear of damage. These acids,

taking out writing-ink and not touching the printing, can be used for

restoring books where the margins have been written upon, without

attacking the text.

TO REMOVE INK STAINS.—Procure a two-ounce phial, put into it a pennyworth

of oxalic acid, and fill it up with warm water; place on the stain a

piece of white linen rag; shake the above solution, and then pour a

few drops of it on the linen rag stretched on the stain. This should

remove it entirely; but, very frequently, when logwood has been used

in manufacturing the ink, a reddish stain still remains. To remove it,

procure a solution of the chloride of lime, and apply it in the same

manner as directed for the oxalic acid. I can guarantee this, after many

trials.—W. J. G.

TO CLEAN LEATHER CASES.—The following is a cheap and excellent plan to

clean hat-cases, writing-desks, and any other leather materials:—Simply,

oxalic acid dissolved in warm water, and the article cleansed with a

piece of sponge. When dry, they are nearly equal to new.—H. K.

TO CLEAN MARBLE.—Take two parts of common soda, one part of pumice-stone,

and one part of finely powdered chalk; sift it through a fine sieve, and

mix it with water; then rub it well all over the marble, and the stains

will be removed; then wash the marble over with soap and water, and it

will be as clean as it was at first.

TO CLEAN PAPER-HANGINGS.—Cut into eight half-quarters a stale quartern

loaf; with one of these pieces, after having blown off all the dust from

the paper to be cleaned, by means of a good pair of bellows, begin at

the top of the room, holding the crust in the hand, and wiping lightly

downward with the crumb about half a yard at each stroke, till the upper

part of the hangings is completely cleaned all round; then go again

round, with the like sweeping stroke downward, always commencing each

successive course a little higher than the upper stroke had extended till

the bottom be finished. This operation, if carefully performed, will

frequently make very old paper look almost equal to new. Great caution

must be used not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor to attempt

cleaning it the cross or horizontal way. The dirty part of the bread,

too, must be each time cut away, and the pieces renewed as soon as at all

necessary.

TO CLEAN BEADS.—Mix up a small quantity of soft soap, spirits of

turpentine, and powdered rotten-stone. Lay it on the beads with a rag,

and rub off with a bit of fine linen or leather.

TO RESTORE IVORY.—To bleach a card case, expose it to the sun in a close

glass shade, previously washing it in spirits of wine and water, with a

small quantity of soda in it. Allow it to dry very slowly in a cool place

before exposing it to the sun. But, under any circumstances, carving in

ivory is apt to split, and become unglued. For an ink spot, try a little

salt of sorrel.—M. C.

TO WHITEN IVORY, EVEN THAT WHICH HAS TURNED A BROWN YELLOW.—1. Slake

some lime in water, put your ivory in that water, after decanted from

the ground, and boil it till it looks quite white. 2. To polish it

afterwards, set it in the turner’s wheel, and, after having worked it,

take rushes and pumice-stones, subtile powder with water, and rub it

all till it looks perfectly smooth. Next to that, heat it by turning it

against a piece of linen, or sheepskin leather, and, when hot, rub it

over with a little whiting diluted in oil of olive; then with a little

dry whiting alone, and finally with a piece of soft white rag. When all

this is performed as directed, the ivory will look remarkably white.—J.

E. C.

TO CLEAN TEA-TRAYS.—Do not pour boiling water over them, particularly on

japanned ones, as it will make the varnish crack and peel off; but have

a sponge wetted with warm water and a little soap if the tray be very

dirty, then rub it with a cloth; if it looks smeary, dust on a little

flour, then rub it with a dry cloth. If the paper tray gets marked, take

a piece of woollen cloth, with a little sweet oil, and rub it over the

marks; if anything will take them out, this will. Let the urn be emptied

and the top wiped dry, particularly the outside, for if any wet be

suffered to dry on it, it will leave a mark.—S.

WAX FOR POLISHING FURNITURE.—Melt bees’ wax in spirits of turpentine,

with a very small proportion of resin. When it is entirely dissolved, dip

in it a sponge, and wash the mahogany lightly over with it. Immediately

afterwards, rub it off with a clean soft cloth. For carved furniture,

spread the mixture on with a small soft brush, and rub it off with

another brush, a very little harder.—M. P.

A HINT FOR HOUSEKEEPERS.—A few drops of carbonate of ammonia in a small

quantity of warm rain water, will prove a safe and easy anti-acid, &c.,

and will change, if carefully applied, discoloured spots upon carpets,

and indeed all spots, whether produced by acids or alkalies. If one

has the misfortune to have a carpet injured by whitewash, this will

immediately restore it.

TO SWEETEN CASKS.—When musty, it is best to unhead large casks and

whitewash them with quick-lime. Or they may be matched with sulphur mixed

with a little nitrate of potash, and afterwards well washed. Small casks

may be sweetened by washing them first with sulphuric acid and then with

clean water: afterwards let them be well swilled, until the foul smell

disappears.—J. W.

THE SMELL OF NEW PAINT.—A bundle of old dry hay, wetted and spread about,

presents a multifarious absorbing surface for this, especially if not

on the floor only, but over pieces of furniture which allow circulation

of air, as chairs laid upon their faces, &c. Large vessels of water,

as trays and pans, are not uncommonly used, with good effect; but the

multiplied surfaces of the loose hay give it great advantage. It must be

kept wet, however, or at least damp, for the oily vapour does not seem to

be readily absorbed unless the air is kept moist by evaporation.—J. P.

TO REMOVE BLACK STAINS FROM THE SKIN.—Ladies that wear mourning in warm

weather are much incommoded by the blackness it leaves on the arms and

neck, and which cannot easily be removed, even by soap and warm water.

To have a remedy always at hand, keep in the drawer of your wash-stand

a box, containing a mixture in equal portions of cream of tartar, and

oxalic acid (POISON). Get at a druggist’s half an ounce of each of these

articles, and have them mixed and pounded together in a mortar. Put some

of this mixture into a cup that has a cover, and if, afterwards, it

become hard, you may keep it slightly moistened with water. See that it

is always closely covered. To use it, wet the black stains on your skin

with the corner of a towel, dipped in water (warm water is best, but

is not always at hand). Then, with your finger, rub on a little of the

mixture. Then _immediately_ wash it off with water, and afterwards with

soap and water, and the black stains will be visible no longer. This

mixture will also remove ink and all other stains from the fingers, and

from white clothes. It is more speedy in its effects if applied with warm

water. No family should be without it, but care must be taken to keep it

out of the way of young children, as, if swallowed, it is poisonous.—J. L.

INCOMBUSTIBLE VARNISH FOR WOOD.—Equal parts of solutions of alum and

isinglass applied to where the flame acts, prevent its burning, but do

not hinder the transmission of heat. Liquids can be boiled in a wooden

vessel on a common fire, if this varnish be applied to them.—X.—[The wood

chars, though it does not flame.]

TO VARNISH PLASTER FIGURES.—Take half an ounce of tin, half an ounce of

bismuth, melt in a crucible, then add half an ounce of mercury. When

perfectly combined, remove the mixture from the fire and let it cool. Mix

with the white of an egg, and it forms a beautiful varnish. The figure to

be dipped in it, and polished when dry.

VARNISH FOR HARNESS.—Take half a pound of India-rubber, one gallon of

spirits of turpentine, dissolve enough to make it into a jelly by keeping

almost new milk-warm: then take equal quantities of good linseed oil (in

a hot state) and the above mixture, incorporate them well on a slow fire,

and it is fit for use.—J. J.

A VARNISH TO COLOUR BASKETS AND OLD STRAW HATS.—Take either red or

black sealing wax: to every two ounces of sealing wax add one ounce of

rectified spirits of wine; pound the wax fine, then sift it through a

fine lawn sieve, till you have made it extremely fine; put it into a

large phial with spirits of wine, shake it, let it stand near the fire

forty-eight hours, shaking it often; then with a brush, a _hog’s-bristle_

brush, lay it all over the baskets. Let it dry, and repeat the

application a second time.—J. T. T.

TO POLISH VARNISH.—Take two ounces of tripoli powdered, put it in an

earthen pot, with water to cover it; then take a piece of white flannel,

lay it over a piece of cork or rubber, and proceed to polish the varnish,

always wetting it with the tripoli and water. It will be known when the

process is finished by wiping a part of the work with a sponge, and

observing whether there is a fair even gloss. When this is the case, take

a bit of mutton suet and fine flour, and clean the work.—W. G.

TO MAKE WHITE VARNISH.—The white varnish used for toys is made of

sandarac, eight ounces; mastic, two ounces; Canada balsam, four ounces;

alcohol, one quart. This is white, drying, and capable of being

polished when hard. Another varnish, for objects of the toilet, such

as work-boxes, card-cases, &c., is made of gum sandarac, six ounces;

elemi (genuine), four ounces; animi, one ounce; camphor, half an ounce;

rectified spirit, one quart. Melt slowly. These ingredients may, of

course, be lessened in proportion.

A VARNISH FOR WOOD THAT WILL RESIST THE ACTION OF BOILING WATER.—Our

readers will find the following receipt extremely useful:—Take a pound

and a half of linseed oil, and boil it in a copper vessel, not tinned,

suspending in the oil a small linen bag, containing five ounces of

litharge and three ounces of minium, both pulverised, taking care that

the bag does not touch the bottom of the vessel. Continue the ebullition

till the oil acquires a deep brown colour; then take out the bag, and

substitute another bag containing a clove of garlic. Continue the

ebullition, and renew the garlic seven or eight times, or else put the

whole in at once. Then throw into the vessel a pound of yellow amber,

after having melted it in the following manner. To a pound of well

pulverised amber add two ounces of linseed oil, and place the whole on

a strong fire. When the fusion is complete, pour it boiling hot into

the prepared linseed oil, and let it continue to boil for two or three

minutes, stirring it well. Let it rest, decant the composition, and

preserve it, when cold, in well-stopped bottles. After having polished

the wood on which this varnish is to be applied, the wood is to have

the desired colour given to it; for example, for walnut-tree, a slight

coat of a mixture of soot with oil of turpentine. When this colour is

perfectly dry, lay on a coat of varnish with a fine sponge, in order to

distribute it equally. Repeat these coats four times, always taking care

to let one coat dry before the next is applied.

CORRECTIVE OF BAD WATER.—Five drops of sulphuric acid put into a full

quart of bad water, will cause the noxious particles to fall to the

bottom. The water should stand two hours; pour off about three parts for

use, and throw the rest away.

GLUE MADE WATERPROOF.—Soak glue in water till it is soft, then melt it in

linseed oil, assisted with a gentle heat. This glue is not acted upon by

water or damp.—X.

WATERPROOF BOOTS.—Boots and shoes may be rendered impervious to water

by the following composition: Take three ounces of spermaceti, and melt

it in a pipkin, or other earthen vessel, over a slow fire: add thereto

six drachms of India-rubber, cut into slices, and these will presently

dissolve. Then add of tallow eight ounces, hog’s lard two ounces, amber

varnish four ounces. Mix, and it will be fit for use immediately; the

boots or other material to be treated, are to receive two or three coats

with a common blacking brush, and a fine polish is the result.

WATERPROOF CLOTH.—Brush the cloth first with a solution of isinglass,

and when dry with a solution of nutgalls. This last solution changes the

gelatinous mass of isinglass into a true leather. Instead of isinglass

use common glue and afterwards a tincture or infusion of catechu. These

receipts will scarcely do with light colours. Rub the cloth over on the

wrong side with India-rubber varnish, or India-rubber dissolved by heat

in spirits of turpentine. Brush over the wrong side of the cloth with a

solution of isinglass, alum, and soap. Brush over the wrong side with

soap-suds, and afterwards with a solution of alum.

A FIREPROOF AND WATERPROOF CEMENT.—To half a pint of milk put an equal

quantity of vinegar, in order to curdle it; then separate the curd from

the whey, and mix the whey with the whites of four or five eggs, beating

the whole well together. When it is well mixed, add a little quick-lime

through a sieve, until it has acquired the consistence of a thick paste.

With this cement, broken vessels and cracks of all kinds may be mended.

It dries quickly, and resists the action of fire and water. I have

recommended this receipt to several friends, who have found it very

satisfactory.—H.

CHINESE METHOD OF WATERPROOFING CLOTH.—By the following very simple

process it is said that the Chinese render not only the strongest cloth,

but even the finest muslin, waterproof, without injuring the appearance

or quality of the article. The composition is composed of half an ounce

of white wax in a pint of spirits of turpentine. In a sufficient quantity

of the mixture immerse the goods intended to be rendered waterproof,

and then hang them in the open air till they become perfectly dry. This

is all the process necessary for accomplishing so desirable a purpose;

against which, however, may be objected, perhaps, the expense, and the

unpleasant smell of the turpentine. But this latter objection can be

remedied by using equal parts of spirits of wine and oil of wormwood,

which is said to dissipate the smell of the turpentine; but the former,

it is not to be denied, must necessarily be augmented.—[A. P. has

favoured us with the above, but has not tried it.]

RUST.—The preservation of iron and steel from rust is a very important

consideration in domestic economy. The following plan of doing this is

very little known, and is far superior to any other:—Add to a quart of

cold water half a pound of quick-lime; let this stand until the top

is perfectly clear; pour off the clear liquid, and stir up with it a

quantity of olive oil, until the mixture becomes a thick cream, or

rather assumes the consistence of butter which has been melted for the

table, and has become cold. Rub the iron or steel which is to be put by

with this mixture, and then wrap it up in paper. Knives and other steel

articles treated in this way will not acquire the slightest rust. If the

nature of the articles will not admit of their being wrapped up in paper,

they will remain free from rust by covering them more thickly with the

mixture.

TO PRESERVE STEEL PENS FROM CORROSION.—Dip them for a few moments in

ethereal solution of gold. This covers them with a film of pure metallic

gold, which prevents the ink acting upon the steel.

TO SOFTEN OLD PUTTY.—In removing old or broken panes from a window, it is

generally very difficult to get off the hard dry putty that sticks round

the glass and its frame. Dip a small brush in a little nitric or muriatic

acid (to be obtained at the druggist’s), and go over the putty with it.

Let it rest a while, and it will soon become so soft that you can remove

it with ease. I have found this plan very successful.—H. B.

TO REMOVE THE SMELL OF PAINT.—Take three or four broad tubs (such, for

instance, as hold about eight gallons), fill them with cold water, and

put into each an ounce of vitriolic acid, which you can obtain from a

druggist. Place these tubs near the wainscot, in a newly painted room.

This water will absorb and retain the effluvium of the paint. Next

day fill the tubs with fresh water, and add to each another ounce of

vitriolic acid. Repeat this a third day, and on the fourth the smell of

the paint will not be perceptible.

AN EXCELLENT PEN WIPER.—Procure two-pennyworth of small shot, (the

smaller the better,) put them into a phial with the neck broken off;

every time you wish to clean your pen, rub it up and down two or three

times in the shot. This will clean it directly, and the shots will last

a lifetime. The simple plan here suggested cleans steel pens ten times

better than cloth wipers do: I have tested its utility very frequently.—C.

INJURIES AND DEATHS FROM THE INFLAMMABILITY OF FEMALE CLOTHING.

The total number of persons who died in the United Kingdom from burns

and scalds during the year 1858, was _three thousand one hundred and

twenty-five_. Of these no small proportion consisted of ladies and

children, who met their deaths through their clothes catching fire.

Neither number nor rank is wanting to emphasise the precautions suggested

by sad calamities arising from the habitual employment of light and

combustible attire. One of the most recent victims was the Countess St.

Marsault, lady of honour to the Princess Clotilde, who died at Paris

from the effects of burns which she had received while endeavouring to

save another lady, whose dress had ignited at a ball. Even royalty has

not escaped these perils; and the severe burns some time since suffered

by the Princess Frederick William of Prussia, owing to the ignition

of her dress while she was in the act of sealing a letter, led to the

institution of the latest and most successful inquiries into means for

preventing the ignition of light textile fabrics. Her Majesty has taken

interest in the subject, and experiments have been made at her express

command.

Messrs. Kersmann & Oppenheim recommend the employment of a solution of

tungstate of soda; but this salt, in the state in which it is ordinarily

supplied to the public, produces a slight discoloration of the fabric—a

fatal objection to its use by ladies who are scrupulously particular

upon the appearance of their vestures. Messrs. Johnson & Sons, of 18A,

Basinghall Street, have experimented upon the tungstate of soda, and

succeeded in producing a refined preparation of it, which may be employed

without the slightest risk of injury to the whiteness, texture, or

colours of the fabric.

At a recent _conversazione_ of the Medical Society of London, Messrs.

Johnson exhibited pieces of muslin which had been prepared with a

solution of the tungstate of soda, and other portions free from such

preparation. Strips of these were submitted to the action of fire, and

it was found that the prepared muslin merely charred slowly, while

the unprepared burst immediately into flame. Similar experiments were

recently exhibited at Guy’s Hospital, upon various materials, with the

most perfect success.

It is stated by Messrs. Johnson that one pennyworth of this preparation,

used with the starch employed in getting up a muslin dress, will render

it certainly uninflammable. An easy means of prevention of a serious evil

being thus placed within the reach of the humblest persons, is it not the

duty of ladies generally to command and recommend its employment? We have

no desire to restrict the exercise of taste in matters of fashion; we

seek not to curtail those ample folds in which ladies may recognise the

acme of grace and beauty: but we must suggest that while they are allowed

to exercise a reasonable pride of dress, they cannot be released from the

moral consideration that the gratification of that pride should not be

suffered to endanger the lives of themselves and their associates, and

to plunge families into mourning perhaps at the very moment when social

happiness is most complete.

Johnson’s prepared tungstate of soda may, we believe, be obtained at the

chemist’s, with directions for its use. If not yet introduced, it soon

must be, as the result of general and frequent inquiry; and we strongly

recommend ladies to employ it, not only for those articles of personal

attire which are liable to come into contact with flame, but for bed

and window hangings, blinds, and other household draperies that may

accidentally ignite. The only caution that we know of as necessary to be

observed in connection with this preparation is, that it should not be

employed for those parts of clothing which infants are liable to suck.

SUMMER AND WINTER BEVERAGES.