Marthes_, _A. D._ 1448. by _Rene_ of the House of _Anjou_, King of
_Jerusalem_ and _Sicily_, &c. Duke of _Anjou_, &c. The Intent thereof
was the Honour of God, Support of the Church, and Exaltation of
Knighthood; over which he declared himself and his Successors, Dukes of
_Anjou_ and Kings of _Sicily_, Chiefs. He also chose St. _Maurice_,
Knight and Martyr, for Patron, and held the first Ceremonies in the
Church of _Angiers_ dedicated to his Name. The Symbol which the Knights
wore on the right Side of their Mantle, was a Golden Crescent, whereon
in Red Enamel was this Word _L’oz_, signifying _L’oz en Croissant_,
whereby they were spur’d forwards to search after the Increase of
Valour and Reputation. At this _Crescent_ was fasten’d as many small
Pieces of Gold, fashion’d like Columns, and enamell’d with Red, as the
Knights had been engag’d in Battels and Sieges; for none could be
adopted into this Order, unless he had well trod the Paths of Honour.
The Knights were Thirty Six, others say Fifty, in Number. For their
Habit they wore Mantles of Red or Crimson Velvet, and a Mantlet of
White, with the Lining and Surcoat of the same.
37. _The Order of the_ Ermin _in_ Britanny,
WAS erected by _Francis_ I. Duke of _Bretagne_, to perpetuate the
Memory of his Grand-father _John_ the Conqueror, or else in Imitation
of other Orders in _France_; and thereupon he new built his Castle of
_Ermin_. The Number of these Knights were Twenty Five. Their Habits
were Mantles of White Damask lin’d with Carnation, and the Mantlet of
the same. The great Collar was of Gold, compos’d of Ears of Corn in
_Saltire_, bound above and beneath with Two Circles of Gold, imitating
the Crown of _Ceres_, denoting the Care of Husbandry, and was sometimes
called _The Order of the Ears of Corn_. At the End of this Collar hung
the _Mus Ponticus_, or Ermin, passing over a Turf of Grass diaper’d
with Flowers, at the Edge whereof was imboss’d this Epigraph in
_French_, _Amaire_, the Device of his said Grand-father, by which he
made known his Courage; and rather than fail in the least Punctilio of
his Word, he would undergo any Misfortune. This Order ended when the
Dukedom of _Bretagne_ became annex’d to the Crown of _France_, by the
Marriage of _Anne_, Dutchess of _Bretagne_, to _Charles_ VIII. and
_Lewis_ XII. both _French_ Kings.
38. _The Order of the_ Ermin _in_ Naples
OWES its Institution to _Ferdinand_ I. King of _Naples_, at the
Expiration of the War which he was engag’d in with _John_ of _Lorain_,
Duke of _Calabria_, 1463. being induc’d thereto by the Treason and
Confederacy of his Brother-in-law _Marinus Marcianus_, Duke of _Sessa_,
who design’d to murder him, and transfer the Kingdom to the Duke of
_Calabria_: But the Plot being defeated, instead of bringing him to
Justice, he not only pardon’d him, but instituted this Chevalry,
admitting therein all the Noblemen of Title and Figure in the Kingdom,
and generously appointed him one of the first Knights. The Collar was
of Gold, intermix’d with Mud or Dirt, to which depended an Ermin and
this Motto, _Malo mori quam fœdari_, alluding to the clean Nature of
the Animal.
39. _The Order of St._ Michael _in_ Naples,
HAD its Original from the same King _Ferdinand_, in honour of St.
_Michael_ the Arch-Angel, Patron of _Apulia_. The Habit of the Knights
was a long White Mantle embroider’d with Ermins, and the Collar of Gold
compos’d of the Letter O, to which hung in an Oval the Epigraph
_Decorum_. By the Habit it seems to be the preceding Order, if that was
dedicated to St. _Michael_.
40. _The Order of St._ Michael _in_ France.
_Lewis_ XI. King of that Realm, considering how his Affairs were
entangled, to re-unite the Affections of his Nobility to himself,
instituted these Knights, 1469. giving them their Denomination from St.
_Michael_ the Arch-Angel, the titular Angel and Protector of _France_,
in Reverence of whom their ancient Kings were wont to solemnize this
Feast-day with great Magnificence, and keep an open Court. Their Number
at first were to be Thirty Six, whereof the King and his Successors
were Chief: But it afterwards proceeded to Three Hundred. The Collar is
compos’d of Escallop-Shells of Gold, joyn’d one with another and
double-banded, fasten’d on small Chains of Gold, at the End of which is
annex’d an Oval of the same; and therein, on an Hillock, is the Figure
of St. _Michael_ combating and trampling down the Dragon. The Motto,
_Immensi tremor Oceani_. The Habit was a Mantle of White Damask hanging
down to the Ground, furr’d with Ermin, having its Cope embroider’d with
Gold, and the Border of the Robe interwoven with Escallops of Gold; the
_Chaperon_ or Hood, with its long Tippet, was made of Crimson Velvet;
but afterwards King _Henry_ II. order’d this Mantle to be Cloth of
Silver, embroider’d with Three _Crescents_ of Silver, interwoven with
Trophies, Quivers and _Turkish_ Bows, _semied_ and _canton’d_ with
Tongues and Flames of Fire; the _Chaperons_ of Crimson Velvet should
have the same Embroidery. Their Grand Festival was to be celebrated on
_Michaelmas-day_, at the Church of _Mount Michael_ in _Normandy_; but
after wards transferr’d to _Bois de Vincennes_ near _Paris_. There is
an Herald of Arms to attend this Order, called _Monsieur St._ Michael.
Upon the instituting _The Order of the Holy Ghost_, not only Care was
taken to preserve this of St. _Michael_, and to rectify it, but the
Knights had the Privilege allow’d them, that if they thought fit they
were made capable of receiving that of _The Holy Ghost_, which no
Stranger or Native could be enroll’d in that had taken upon him any
other Order. The Collar of St. _Michael_ may be worn with that of _The
Holy Ghost_, and it is now frequently us’d. The Evening before any
receive _The Order of the Holy Ghost_, he is admitted into _The Order
of St._ Michael.
41. _The Order of the_ Elephant _in_ Denmark.
KING _Christian_ I. being at _Rome_ upon a religious Account, Pope
_Sixtus_ IV. among other Honours, invested him with this Order, in
Memory of the Passion of our Saviour; and withal ordain’d the Supreme
or Chief in his Successors, Kings of _Denmark_.
THIS King founded the magnificent Chapel of the Three Kings in the
Cathedral Church of _Roschilt_, (Four Leagues from _Copenhagen_) where
the Knights were to assemble upon the Death of any of their Fraternity.
He admitted thereunto divers Kings, Princes and Noblemen. Its chief
Ensign was the Figure of an Elephant, on whose side (within a Rundle)
was a Crown of Thorns, with Three Nails all bloody, in Memory of the
Passion. The Knights were oblig’d to Acts of Piety, Alms-Deeds, and
certain Ceremonies, especially upon those Days on which they wore the
Ensigns. King _John_ valu’d it so highly, that he wore them on every
solemn Festival. He advanc’d it to that Pitch of Grandeur, that our
King _Henry_ VIII. and _James_ V. King of _Scotland_, accepted it.
_Hertholm_, a learned _Dane_, in a particular Treatise of this
_Elephantine Order_, says, The Badge was meerly Military, anciently
given as a Memorial and Incitement to the _Danish_ Princes, who took
upon them the Defence of Christianity against the _Moors_ and
_Africans_.
HERETOFORE the Knights wore a Collar of Gold compos’d of castellated
Elephants and Crosses, something like the _Crosses ancrees_ (_Menenius_
calls them Spurs) at which hung the Picture of the Virgin _Mary_ to the
Middle, holding Christ in her Arms, and surrounded with a Glory of
Sun-beams. But that long since laid aside, they now wear only a Blue
Ribbon, at which hangs an Elephant enamell’d White, adorn’d with Five
large Diamonds set in the Middle. These Elephants, in the Reign of King
_Christian_ IV. had in the same Place, within a Circle, the Letter C,
and in the Center of it the Figure 4, denoting _Christianus Quartus_.
THIS Honour is usually conferr’d on the Days of the King’s Coronation.
_Frederick_ III. brought into use, in Imitation of _The Garter_, an
embroider’d Glory of Silver Purple wrought upon the left Side of their
Cloak or Vest, on which was embroider’d Two Crowns within a Rundle,
bearing this Motto, _Deus providebit_. The late King, his Son, chang’d
the Motto to, _Pietate & Justitia_; but all the Knights created by his
Father are oblig’d to continue the former Motto.
42. _The Order of the_ Burgundian Cross _at_ Tunis,
WAS instituted on St. _Mary Magdalen_’s Day, 1535. by _Charles_ V.
Emperor of _Germany_ and King of _Spain_, after he had restor’d
_Mulleasses_, King of _Tunis_, to his Kingdom, to reward those
Commanders who had behav’d themselves well in the Victory. It was the
Day wherein he made his pompous Entry into _Tunis_, when clad in the
Coat he usually wore in Battle, whereon was embroider’d a _Burgundian
Cross_, which Cross he made the Badge, and added a Steel striking
Sparks of Fire out of a Flint, with this Inscription, _Barbaria_; and
for a more ornamental Decoration, gave a Collar of Gold, whereat hung
this Badge.
43. _Knights of the_ Holy Ghost,
WERE instituted by the _French_ King, _Henry_ III. 1578. to unite his
Nobles more firmly in their Obedience, to encourage them to persevere
in the _Romish_ Religion, and to illustrate the State of his Nobility.
It was so call’d by reason he was born on _Whitsunday_, 1550. elected
that Day, 1573. King of _Poland_; and on that Day, 1574. came to the
Crown of _France_. It was to consist of One Hundred Knights, besides
the Sovereign or Great Master, which Office is inseparable from the
Crown of _France_. A long Mantle of Black Velvet turn’d up on the left
Side, and open’d on the right, was also appointed for the Habit, being
at first embroider’d round with Gold and Silver, consisting of Flowers
_de Lys_ and Knots of Gold, between Three sundry Cyphers of Silver; and
above the Flowers _de Lys_ and Knots, were thickly powder’d Flames of
Fire. This great Mantle was garnish’d with a Mantle of Cloth of Silver,
cover’d with Embroidery made after the same Fashion, excepting only,
that instead of Cyphers there were wrought Doves of Silver, and both
these Robes double lin’d with a Satin of Orange-Tawney. The great
Collar worn over the Mantle, was at first compos’d of Flowers _de Lys_,
canton’d or corner’d with Flames of Fire, interwoven with Three Cyphers
and divers Monograms of Silver; one was the Letter _H_ and a _Greek
Lambda_, both double, for the King’s Name and the Queen’s, _Lovisa de
Lorain_; the other Two were reserv’d in the King’s own Mind. But these
Cyphers were taken off the Colour and the Embroidery of the Robes by
King _Henry_ IV. and for a Mark of his Victories, Trophies of Arms were
interlac’d instead thereof, with the Letter _H_ crown’d (the Initial of
his Name) whereout arose Flames and Sparks of Fire; and for the like
Reason the _H_ has been chang’d into _L_, both by _Lewis_ XIII and XIV.
At this Collar hung a Cross richly enamell’d in the midst, whereon was
figur’d a Dove in a flying Posture, as descending down from Heaven with
full spread Wings: And that an Epigraph might not be wanting, some have
attributed to it this, _Duce & Auspice_. Besides these Ornaments, the
Knights wear a Black Velvet Cap, with a White Plume; their Breeches and
Doublets are of Cloth of Silver, and their Shoes White ty’d with Roses
or Knots of Black Velvet. The Badges ordain’d to be ordinarily worn,
are a Cross of Yellow or Orange-colour Velvet, like a _Malta_ Cross,
fix’d on the left Side of their Breast, except in military Expeditions,
and then they are permitted to wear them of Cloth of Silver or White
Velvet, having a Silver Dove, and at the Angles or Corners, Rays and
Flowers _de Lys_ of Silver. They have a Cross of the Order made of Gold
(like the _Malta_ Cross) with a Flower _de Lys_ in each Angle, to be
worn about their Necks in a Blue Ribbon, and to be enamell’d White
about the Sides, but not in the Middle. Such as are Knights both of St.
_Michael_ and _The Holy Ghost_, are to bear the Figure of St. _Michael_
on one Side, and of a Dove on the other. The Anniversary is held on the
first Day of the New-Year, but the first Part of the Ceremony begins
always on the last Day of the Old, when it was instituted; and the
Place for celebrating thereof is the Church of _Augustin_ Fryars in
_Paris_.
44. _The Order of_ The precious Blood of our Saviour
Jesus Christ _of_ Mantua,
WAS instituted, 1608. by _Vincentio de Gonzago_ IV. Duke of _Mantua_,
and II. of _Montferat_, for Defence and Propagation of Christianity,
and in Honour of Three Drops of Blood of our Redeemer; as also to set
forth more nobly the Nuptials of his eldest Son _Francisco_. It was
confirm’d by Pope _Paul_ V. and consisted of Twenty Knights, the
Founder and his Successors to be Great Masters. The Collar is compos’d
of Ovals of Gold, some extended in Length, others in Breadth,
alternately, and interlink’d with small Anulets: Those in Length have
these Words rais’d in White Enamel, _Domine probasti_; on the other in
Breadth is a Grey Crucible fill’d with small Rods of Gold, and placed
on a Trevet of Black Enamel over Flames of Fire, intimating, that they
who incorporated in this Society, should hold inviolable Faith and
Concord in the greatest Trials and Emergences of Life; at the End of
the Collar is _pendant_ a larger Oval of Gold, in which are figur’d two
Angels standing upright, holding between them a Chalice crown’d, in the
Table whereof are painted Three Drops of Bloods enamell’d Red, and
round the Oval, _Nihil isto triste recepto_.
45. _The Order of the_ Amaranta,
OWES its Institution to _Christina_, Queen of _Sweden_, about the Year
1645. in honour of a Lady of that Name, of great Beauty, Courage,
Modesty and Charity. The chief Ensign is a Jewel of Gold compos’d of
Two _A_’s, adorn’d with Diamonds on both Sides, and join’d together by
reversing one of them, being set within a Circle of Laurel Leaves
wreath’d about with White, and on the Four Sides this Motto,
_Dolcenella memoria_; which Jewel the Knights wear either in a Gold
Chain, or a Crimson or Blue Ribbon, as they best like of. His
Investiture is with this Ceremony: The Queen being seated under her
State, an intended Knight kneels before her, when she acquaints him
with her Inducements to confer on him this Honour, enumerating his
Services and Merits: This done, he takes an Oath, still kneeling and
holding his Hands between the Queen’s, to defend her Person from Harm,
and the Persons of his Brother Knights; to incite Justice, Vertue and
Piety, and discountenance its Opposers; after which the Queen puts
about him (in the manner of a Baudrick) a Crimson Silk Scarf with the
Jewel fasten’d thereto. To an absent Prince or Personage, she sends the
Jewel, accompany’d with her Letter, which supplies the Place of a
personal Investiture. Among many others have been several Kings and
Princes. Sir _Bulstrode Whitlocke_ has been elected Knight of this
Order.
46. _The Order of the_ Black Eagle,
WAS instituted by _Frederick_ King of _Prussia_, and Elector of
_Brandenburgh_, soon after he had the Title of King conferr’d upon him.
§ 2. 1. In the _West-Indies_, _Montezuma_, King of _Mexico_, set
Knighthood in the highest Splendor, ordaining certain military Orders,
with several Badges and Ensigns. The most honourable among the Knights
were those that carry’d the Crown of their Hair ty’d with a little Red
Ribbon, having a rich Plume of Feathers, from which did hang Branches
and Rolls of Feathers upon their Shoulders. They carry’d as many Rolls
as they had done gallant Exploits in the Wars; and the King himself and
his Sons were of this Order; which _Purchas_ calls _Eagle Knights_.
2. THERE was another Order, call’d _Of the Lyons and Tygers_. These
Knights being commonly the most valiant in the Wars, always bore with
them their Badges and Armories.
3. OTHER Knights there were, as _The Grey Knights_, not so much
respected as the rest. They had their Hair cut round about the Ears:
They made War upon their Enemies with Ensigns like other Knights, and
were only arm’d to the Girdle, while the most Honourable were
_Cap-a-Pee’d_. All Knights might carry Gold and Silver, be array’d in
rich Cotton, have the use of painted and gilt Vessels, and wear Shoes;
but the common People only the earthen sort; neither might they carry
Shoes nor Attire themselves, but in a gross Stuff. Every Order had
their Lodging assign’d them in the Palace, distinguish’d by their
proper Ensigns: The first was the Lodging of the Prince, the second of
_Eagles_, the third of _Lyons and Tygers_, and the fourth of _Grey
Knights_.
THE Province of _Cinaloa_ (near _New Mexico_) created their Knights by
giving a Bow, and setting them to encounter a Lyon or some other wild
Beast.
THE _Inguas_, or Lords of _Peru_, dedicated their Children to Honour,
by adorning them with _Guarras_ or Ensigns. They pierced their Ears,
whip’d them with Slings, smeared their Faces with Blood, in order they
should be true Knights to the _Ingua_. Those of Royal Extraction,
before they received the Order of Knighthood abstained Seven Days from
all manner of Nutriment, except a little raw Grain and Water, and after
being heartned and brisked up again, performed some Military Exercises,
also Racing, Wrestling, Leaping, Shooting, Slinging, throwing the Dart
and Lance, _&c._ and enduring to be beaten on the Hands and Legs with
Wands; these being as it were the Tests whether they could endure the
Hardships of War or no; for if they did not sustain them manfully, they
were denied Knighthood. The Ceremonies being performed by boaring an
Hole in the Ears, putting on gallant Shoes, and wearing of the
Breeches, which before they were restricted, adorning their Heads with
Flowers, and having the Privilege of an Herb that none but themselves
cou’d make use of, and lastly giving an Axe into their Hands.
_Menenius_ calls these Knights _Oreiones_, from the _Spanish Orejas_,
flop or loll-eared, in the _Latin Auriculares_, from the Leaf which
they bore hanging in their Ears, or because they only negotiated
Affairs with the Emperor, and had his Ear at all times.
IN _Japan_ there’s an Order of Knights called _Mengoras_, part of whom
are called _Bonzees_, living in Fraternities, as our Religionists in
_Europe_. Some of these have the Charge of their Idols, and the Service
relating to their Temples, others follow the Wars. They profess
Chastity with such Severity, that no Woman is allow’d to enter their
Cities. They govern the Kingdoms they conquer, and are so very opulent
that some of them possess 60000 Duckets _per Annum_; and have a publick
Armory well stored to make use of upon any Exigence, which is
maintain’d by a daily Contribution. Women have been excluded their
Share in this Way of Honour, tho’ their Courage and Valour have
equalized the _Amazons_ of old; the Example is of the noble Women of
_Tortosa_ in _Spain_, or the _Femme_ Cavaliers of the _Torchi_.
_Micheli_ barely calls them _Chavalleros_, or rather _Chavalleras_,
seeing the _Latins_ have had the Words, _Equitissæ & Militissæ_, to
express, _Virago’s_ and _Heroines_.
DON _Raymond_, last Earl of _Barcelona_, having in the Year 1149.
reduced the City of _Tortosa_ from the _Moors_, on the Thirty First
following they laid a fresh Siege to it, in hopes to recover it. The
Inhabitants were at length reduced to great Streights; they desired
Relief of the Earl, but he not being in a Condition to answer their
Request, they had Thoughts of a Surrender; which the Women to prevent
put on the Apparel of the Men, and by a resolute Salley forced the
_Moors_ to raise the Siege. The Gallantry of the Action the Earl
acknowledged by granting them several Privileges, and to perpetuate the
Memory instituted this Order, somewhat like a Military one, and none
were to be admitted, only those brave Women, and the Honour to derive
to their Descendants, and assigned them for a Badge a Thing like a
_Fryer’s Capouche_, sharp at the Top, after the Form of a Torch, of a
Crimson Colour, to be worn upon their Head-Cloaths; that at all publick
Meetings the Women should have Precedence of the Men, and should be
exempted from all Taxes, and that all the Apparels and Jewels left by
their dead Husbands should be theirs.
A more general Ornament of Honour peculiar to the Fair Sex is the
_Cordon_, which some will have to be an Order, or Equivalent thereunto.
The Institution is attributed to _Anne Britaigne_, Wife to _Charles_
VIII. of _France_, who instead of the Military Belt or Collar, bestowed
a Cordon or Lace on several Ladies, admonishing them to live chastly
and devoutly, always mindful of the Cords and Bonds of our Saviour, and
to engage them to a greater Esteem of it, she surrounded her Escutcheon
of Arms with the like Cordon; from which Example the Arms of unmarried
Ladies and Gentlewomen are usually adorn’d with them.
CAP. IV.
_Of the Castle, Chapel and College of_ Windsor, _&c._
Having dispatch’d the several Orders of Knighthood, and trac’d them
from their proper Fountains, we come now to treat of the most Noble
Order of the _Garter_; an Order, that not only grants Merit, and
Honourable, and Valiant Exploits at Home, but what Imperial Heads and
Persons, fam’d for the Antiquity of their Race, or Gallantry of
Actions, have always esteem’d a further Advancement to their Glory
therein to be enroll’d. For the better Explanation, it will be
necessary to begin with the Description of the Castle, Chapel, and
College of _Windsor_. The Place claims no greater Antiquity than of the
_Saxons_, named by them _Windleshore_, and, as _Cambden_ conjectures,
had the Denomination from the Winding of a Shore thereabouts, as did
_Wandsworth_ in _Surry_, heretofore written _Windlesworth_. The first
authentick Notice is from the Donation which King _Edward the
Confessor_ made thereof to the Monks of _Westminster_, (as the Charter
expresses it) _For the Hope of eternal Reward, the Remission of all his
Sins, the Sins of his Father, Mother, and all his Ancestors, to the
Praise of Almighty_, &c. he grants _Wyndleshore_, with all its
Appurtenances, as an Endowment and perpetual Inheritance, to the Use of
the _Monks_ there, and at _Westminster_, that served GOD. Those Monks
enjoy’d it not long, for King _William the Conqueror_, in the first
Year of his Reign, being greatly enamour’d with the pleasant Situation
and Commodiousness of the Place, situate so near the _Thames_, and the
Wood fit for Game, invited _Eadwin_, the then Abbot, and the _Monks_,
to accept in Exchange for it, _Wokendune_ in _Essex_, a Mansion called
_Ferings_, with all its Members and Hamlets, together with Fourteen
_Sokemen_ and their Lands, and one Freeholder, and Three Houses in
_Colchester_, all in _Essex_, since which it has remained in the Crown.
The King being thus possess’d, forthwith built a Castle upon the Hill,
which, in _Doomsday Book_, contained half an Hide of Land, and is there
noted to be Parcel of the Mannor of [_Clivore_] _Clure_. This Castle
King _Henry_ I. rebuilt, and beautified with great Magnificence, and,
in the Tenth Year of his Reign, held his _Whitsontide_ there with great
State and Splendor. Shortly after, in a Charter of Peace between King
_Stephen_ and Duke _Henry_, (King _Henry_ II. afterwards) this Castle
was called _Mola de Windesor_, the Fortress of _Windesor_. Within this
Castle was King _Edward_ III. born, (commonly called _Edward_ of
_Windsor_) and was baptized in the old Chapel; and so great was his
Affection to that Place, that he constituted it the Seat of the most
noble Order of the _Garter_; and to embellish it the more, he founded
the College of the Chapel of St. _George_, and much enlarged, and
beautified the Castle.
For this Work he appointed several Surveyors, whom he assigned to press
Hewers of Stone, Carpenters, and such other Artificers as were thought
useful and necessary, as also to provide Stone, Timber, and all other
Materials for them. _William de Wyckham_ (who attained to be Bishop of
_Winchester_) was one of these Supervisors, and had that Place
conferr’d on him by Letters Patent, _October_ 30. _Ed._ III. And a
Grant of the same Fee was likewise allowed to _Robert de Bernham_, viz.
One Shilling a Day, while he was at _Windsor_, Two Shillings when he
went elsewhere about that Affair, and Three Shillings _per_ Week to his
Clerk; afterwards he was chief Custos and Surveyor of this Castle, of
the Mannors of Old and New _Windsor_, and of other Castles, Mannors,
_&c._ belonging to the King, to provide Workmen, and look after the
Repairs, and in those Mannors to hold Leets and other Courts, Pleas of
Trespass and Misdemeanours.