Our connexion here, was as far from vapouring on the subject of

England, as any man I knew; of great personal modesty and simplicity,

he appears to carry these qualities into his estimates of national

character. He is one of the few Englishmen, I have met, for instance,

who has been willing to allow that Napoleon could have done any

thing, had he succeeded in reaching the island. “I do not see how

we should have prevented him from going to London,” he said, “had

he got a hundred thousand men fairly on the land, at Dungenness;

and once in London, heaven knows what would have followed.” This

opinion struck me as a sound one, for the nation is too rich, and the

division between _castes_, too marked, to expect a stout resistance,

when the ordinary combinations were defeated. I have little doubt,

that the difference in systematic preparation and in the number of

regular troops apart, that a large body of hostile men, would march

further in England, than in the settled parts of America, all the

fanfaronades of the Quarterly, to the contrary, notwithstanding. He

looks on the influence of the national debt too, gloomily, and is

as far from the vapid indifference of national vanity, as any one I

know. But, the moment we touch on America, his mind appears to have

lost its balance. As a specimen of how long the old colonial maxims

have been continued in this country, he has asked me where we are to

get wool for our manufactures? I reminded him of the extent of the

country. This was well enough, he answered, but “the winters are too

long in America to keep sheep.” When I told him the census of 1825,

shows that the single state of New York, with a population of less

than 1,800,000, has three millions and a half of sheep, he could

scarcely admit the validity of our documents.

All the ancient English opinions were formed on the political system

of the nation, and men endeavoured lustily to persuade themselves

that things which this system opposed could not be. The necessity of

enlisting opinion in its behalf, has imposed the additional necessity

of sometimes enlisting it, in opposition to reason.

There is a small building in Hoddesdon, called Roydon-house, that has

exceedingly struck my fancy. It is not large for Europe, not at all

larger than a second-rate American country house, but beautifully

quaint and old fashioned. I have seen a dozen of these houses, and

I envy the English their possession, much more than that of their

Blenheims and Eatons. I am told there is not a good room in it, but

that it is cut up, in the old way, into closets, being half hall and

stair case. The barrenness of our country, in all such relics, give

them double value in my eyes, and I always feel, when I see one,

as if I would rather live in its poetical and antique discomfort,

than in the best fitted dwelling of our own times. I dare say a

twelvemonth of actual residence, however, would have the same effect

on such a taste as it has on love in a cottage.

I returned to town in a post-chaise, a vehicle that the cockneys

do not calumniate, when they call it a “post _shay_.” It is a

small cramped inconvenient chariot without the box, and, like the

_interiors_ of the ordinary stage-coaches, does discredit to the

well established reputation of England for comfort. Those who use

post-horses, in Europe, usually travel in their own carriages, but

these things are kept, as _pis allers_ for emergencies.

As we drove through the long maze of villages, that are fast getting

to be incorporated with London itself, my mind was insensibly led to

ruminations on the growth of this huge capital, its influence on the

nation and the civilized world, its origin and its destinies.

To give you, in the first place, some idea of the growth of the

town, I had often heard a mutual connexion of ours, who was educated

in England, allude to the circumstance that the husband of one of

his cousins, who held a place in the royal household, had purchased

a small property in the vicinity of London, in order to give his

children the benefit of country air; his duties and his poverty

equally preventing him from buying a larger estate further from

town. When here, in 1826, I was invited to dine in the suburbs, and

undertook to walk to the villa, where I was expected. I lost my way,

and looking up at the first corner, for a direction, saw the name of

a family nearly connected with those with whom we are connected. The

three or four streets that followed had also names of the same sort,

some of which were American. Struck by the coincidence, I inquired in

the neighbourhood, and found I was on the property of the grandson of

the gentleman, who, fifty years before, had purchased it with a view

to give his children country air! Thus the _poverty_ of the ancestor

has put the descendant in possession of some fifteen or twenty

thousand a year.

I should think that the growth of London is greater, relatively,

than that of any other town in Europe, three or four on this island

excepted. Many think the place already too large for the kingdom,

though the comparison is hardly just, the empire, rather than

England, composing the social base of the capital. So long as the two

Indies and the other foreign dependencies can be retained, London is

more in proportion to the power and wealth of the state, than Paris

is in proportion to the power and wealth of France. The day must

come, (and it is nearer than is commonly thought) when the British

Empire, as it is now constituted, must break up, and then London

will, indeed, be found too large for the state. In that day, its

suburbs will probably recede quite as fast as they now grow. Mr.

McAdam considers the size of London an evil.

The English frequently discuss the usefulness of their colonies,

and moot the question of the policy of throwing them off. They who

support the latter project, invariably quote the instance of America,

as a proof that the present colonies will be more useful to the

mother country, when independent, than they are to-day. I have often

smiled at their reasoning, which betrays the usual ignorance of

things out of their own circle.

In the first place, England has very few real colonies at this

moment, among all her possessions. I do not know where to look for

a single foreign dependency of her’s, that has not been wrested by

violence from some original possessor. It is true, that time and

activity have given to some of these conquests the feelings and

characters of colonies; and Upper Canada, Nova Scotia, Jamaica, New

Holland, and possibly the Cape, are, more or less, acquiring the

title. I thought Mr. McAdam rather leaned to the opinion, that the

country would be better without its colonies than with them. He

instanced our own case, and maintained that we are more profitable to

England now, than when we were her dependants.

All of the thirteen states of America were truly English colonies.

One only was a conquest, (New York) but more than a century of

possession had given that one an English character, and the right of

conquest meeting with no obstacle in charters, a more thoroughly

English character too, by means of a territorial aristocracy, than

belonged to almost any other. The force and impression of this

strictly colonial origin, are still be traced among us, in the

durability of our prejudices, and in the deference of our opinions

and habits to those of the mother country; prejudices and a deference

that half a century of political facts, that are more antagonist to

those of England than any other known, so far from overthrowing, has

scarcely weakened.

In reviewing this subject, the extent and power of the United States

are also to be remembered. Our independence was recognized in 1783.

In 1793 commenced the wars of the French revolution. About this time,

also, we began the cultivation of cotton. Keeping ourselves neutral,

and profiting by the national aptitude, the history of the world does

not present another instance of such a rapid relative accumulation

of wealth, as was made by America between the years 1792 and 1812.

It would have been greater, certainly, had France and England been

more just, but, as it was, centuries will go by before we see its

parallel. Our naval stores, bread stuffs, cotton, tobacco, ashes,

indigo, and rice, all went to the highest markets. Here, then, our

colonial origin and habits, stood England in hand. Nineteen in

twenty of our wants were supplied from her workshops. Had we still

been dependants we could not have been neutral, could not have been

common carriers, could not have bought, for want of the ability to

sell.

Now, where is England, in her list of colonies, to find a parallel

to these facts? If the Canadas were independent, what have they

to export, that we could not crush by competition? England may

take lumber exclusively from British America, as a colony, but

were British America independent, we would not submit to such a

regulation. Our southern woods, among the best in the world, would

drive all northern woods out of the market. Having little to sell,

Canada could not buy, and she would begin, in self-defence, to

manufacture. Our manufactures would deluge the West-India islands,

our ships would carry their produce, and, in short, all the American

possessions would naturally look up to the greatest American state as

to their natural head.

In the east, it would be still worse. All the world would come in, as

sharers of a commerce that is now controlled for especial objects.

England would cease to be the mart of the world, and would find

herself left with certain expensive military establishments that

there would no longer be a motive for maintaining. Were England to

give up her dependencies, I think she would sink to a second-rate

power in twenty years. Did we not exist, the change might not be so

rapid, for there would be less danger from competition; but we _do_

exist; number, already, nearly as many people as England, and in a

quarter of a century more shall number as many as all the British

isles put together.

Can England retain her dependencies, in any event? The chances are

that she cannot. It is the interest of all christendom to overturn

her system, for it is opposed to the rights of mankind, to allow

a small territory in Europe, to extend its possessions and its

commercial exclusion, over the whole earth, by _conquest_. The view

of this interest, may be obscured by the momentary interference of

more pressing concerns, and the alliance of Great Britain purchase

temporary acquiescence, but as the world advances in civilization,

this exclusion will become more painful, until all will unite, openly

or secretly, to get rid of it. Men are fast getting to be of less

importance, in Europe, and general interests are assuming their

proper power.

It is probable that England will find herself so situated, long ere

the close of this century, as to render it necessary to abandon

her colonial system. When this is done, there will no longer be a

motive for retaining dependencies, that belong only to herself in

their charges. The dominion of the east will probably fall into the

hands of the half-castes; that of the West Indies will belong to the

blacks, and British America is destined to be a counterpoise to the

country along the gulph of Mexico. The first fleet of thirty sail

of the line, that we shall send to sea, will settle the question of

English supremacy, in our own hemisphere.

Were these great results dependent on the policy of America, I

should greatly distrust them, for, no nation has less care of its

foreign interests, or looks less into the future, than ourselves.

We are nearly destitute of statesmen, though overflowing with

politicians. But the facts of the republic are so stupendous as

to overshadow every thing within their influence. This is another

feature, in which the two countries are as unlike as possible.

Here all depends on men; on combinations, management, forethought,

care, and policy. With us, the young Hercules, is stripped of

his swaddlings, and his limbs and form are suffered to take the

proportions and shape of nature. To be less figurative—it is a known

fact that our exertions are proportioned to our wants. In nothing

is this truth more manifest, than in the difference which exists

between the foreign policies of England and America. That of this

country has all the vigilance, decision, energy, and system that are

necessary to an empire so factitious and of interests so diversified,

while our own is marked by the carelessness and neglect, not to say

ignorance, with which a vigorous youth, in the pride of his years

and strength, enters upon the hazards and dangers of life. One of

the best arguments that can be adduced in favor of the present

form of the British government, is its admirable adaptation to the

means necessary for keeping such an empire together. Democracy is

utterly unsuited to the system of metropolitan rule, since its maxims

imperiously require equality of rights. The secret consciousness

of this fitness, between the institutions and the empire, will

probably have a great effect on the minds of all reflecting men in

England, when the question comes to serious changes; for the moment

the popular feeling gets the ascendancy, the ties that connect the

several parts of this vast collection of conflicting interests,

will be loosened. The secrecy of motive, and the abandonment of

the commoner charities that are necessary for the control of so

complicated a machinery, are incompatible with the publicity of a

popular sway and the ordinary sympathies of human nature.[14]

Were London to fall into ruins, there would probably be fewer of its

remains left in a century, than are now to be found of Rome. All the

stuccoed palaces, and Grecian façades of Regent’s street and Regent’s

Park, would dissolve under a few changes of the season. The noble

bridges, St. Paul’s, the Abbey, and a few other edifices would remain

for the curious; but, I think, few European capitals would relatively

leave so little behind them, of a physical nature, for the

admiration of posterity. Not so, however, in matters, less material.

The direct and familiar moral influence of London is probably less

than that of Paris, but in all the higher points of character, I

should think it unequalled by that of Rome, itself.

LETTER XXIV.

TO R. COOPER, ESQ., COOPERSTOWN, N. Y.

Mr. Sotheby has had the good nature to take me with him, to see

Mr. Coleridge, at Highgate. We found the bard living in a sort of

New England house, that stands on what, in New England, would be

called a green. The demon of speculation, however, was at work in

the neighbourhood, and the place was _being_ disfigured by trenches,

timber, and bricks.

Our reception was frank and friendly, the poet coming out to us in

his morning undress, without affectation, and in a very prosaic

manner. Seeing a beautifully coloured little picture in the room, I

rose to take a nearer view of it, when Mr. Coleridge told me it was

by his friend Alston. It was a group of horsemen, returning from the

chase, the centre of light being a beautiful grey horse. Mr. Alston

had found this horse in some picture of Titian’s, and copied it for

a study; but on Mr. Coleridge’s admiring it greatly, he had painted

in two or three figures, with another horse or two, so as to tell

a story, and presented it to his friend. Of this little work, Mr.

Coleridge told the following singular anecdote.

A picture-dealer, of great skill in his calling, was in the habit of

visiting the poet. One day this person entered, and his eye fell on

the picture for the first time. “As I live!” he exclaimed, “a real

Titian!” Mr. Coleridge was then eagerly questioned, as to where he

had found the jewel, how long he had owned it, and by what means it

came into his possession. Suddenly, the man paused, looked intently

at the picture, _turned his back towards it, as if to neutralize the

effect of sight_, and raising his hand, so as to feel the surface

over his shoulder, he burst out in an ecstacy of astonishment, “It

has not been painted twenty years!”

This story was told with great unction and a suitable action, and

embellished with what a puritan would deem almost an oath. We then

adjourned to the library. Here we sat half an hour, during most of

which time, our host entertained us with his flow of language. I

was amused with the contrast between the two poets, for Mr. Sotheby

was as meek, quiet, subdued, simple, and regulated, as the other

was redundant, imaginative, and overflowing. I thought the first

occasionally checked the natural ebullitions of the latter, like a

friend who rebuked his failings. One instance was a little odd, and

pointed.

The conversation had wandered to phrenology, and Mr. Coleridge gave

an account of the wonders that a professor had found in his own head,

with a minuteness that caused his friend to fidget. To divert him

from the subject, I told an anecdote that occurred just before I left

America.

Meeting a votary of the science, one day, at a bookseller’s, he began

to expatiate on it’s beauties. From theory he proceeded to practice,

by making an analysis of my bumps. Tired of the manipulation, I

turned him over to the head of the bookseller, who was standing by,

professing to be a better judge of another man’s qualities, than of

my own. Now this bookseller was a singularly devout man, and the

phrenologist instinctively sought the bump of veneration, as the

other bowed his head for him to feel it. The moment the fingers of

the phrenologist touched the head, however, I saw that something was

wrong, and I had the curiosity to put my own hand to the scull. In

the spot where there should have been a bump, according to theory,

there was positively a hollow. I looked at the phrenologist, and the

phrenologist looked at me. At this moment, the bookseller was called

away by a customer, and I said to my acquaintance, “well, what do you

say to that?” “Say?—That I have no faith in that fellow’s religion!”

Both the gentlemen laughed at this story, but Mr. Sotheby gave it a

point, that I had not anticipated, by intimating to Mr. Coleridge,

pretty plainly, that when one discussed the subject of phrenology,

he should not introduce his own bumps, as the subject of the

experiments. Notwithstanding two or three little rebukes of this

nature, the poets got on very well together; and finding that they

had some rhymes to arrange between them, I left them to discuss the

matter by themselves.

This was a poetical morning, for, on leaving Mr. Coleridge, we drove

to the house of Miss Joanna Baillie, at Hampstead, a village that

lies on the same range of low heights. Luckily, we found this clever,

and respectable, and simple-minded woman in, and were admitted. I

never knew a person of real genius who had any of the affectations of

the smaller fry, on the subject of their feelings and sentiments. If

Coleridge was scholastic and redundant, it was because he could not

help himself; to use a homely figure, it was a sort of boiling over

of the pot on account of the intense heat beneath.

It has often been my luckless fortune to meet with ladies who have

achieved a common-place novel, or so, or who have written a Julia,

or a Matilda, for a magazine, and who have ever after deemed it

befitting their solemn vocation to assume lofty and didactic manners;

but Miss Baillie had none of this. She is a little, quiet, feminine

woman, who you would think might shrink from grappling with the

horrors of a tragedy, and whom it would be possible to mistake for

the maiden sister of the curate, bent only on her homely duties.

Notwithstanding this simplicity, however, there was a deeply-seated

earnestness about her, that bespoke the good-faith and honesty of the

higher impulses within.

After all, is it not these impulses that make what the world calls

genius? All men are sensible of truths, when they are fairly

presented to them, and is the difference between the select few, and

the many, any more than a quickening of the powers, by some physical

incentive, which, in setting the whole in motion, throws into

stronger light than common, the inventive, the beautiful, and the

sublime?

Let this be as it may, Miss Joanna Baillie had to me, the air and

appearance of a quiet enthusiast. She went with us to look at the

village, and, as she walked ahead, to do the honours of the place,

in her plain dark hat and cloak, I am certain, no one, at a glance,

would have thought her little person contained the elements of a

tragedy.

Something was said of a sketch of Napoleon, by Dr. Channing; a work I

had not seen. Miss Baillie allowed that it was clever, but objected

to some one of its positions, that, though it was right enough for

an American, it was not so right for an Englishman. As I had never

read the sketch, in question, I cannot tell you the precise point

to which she alluded, and I mention it, as another proof of a tone

of reasoning that is sufficiently common here, by which there is

an _abstract_, and a _quo ad hoc_ right, in all things that touch

political systems. This peculiarity has frequently struck me, and

I think it so marked, as to merit notice. I take it to be the

inevitable consequence of all systems, in which the reasoning is

adapted to the facts, and not the facts to the reasoning.

As we returned to town, we passed a group in which there was a ring

for a boxing match. Not a prize fight, but a set-too, in anger. Mr.

Sotheby expressed a very natural disgust, at this _human_, tendency,

(not _inhuman_, remember,) and, then, with an exquisite _naïveté_,

sympathized with me on the state of things, in this respect, in

America, with some sufficiently obvious allusions to gouging!

Although, I have not passed ten months in England, in the course of

four visits, I believe I have witnessed more fighting in it, between

men, than I ever saw in America. But of what use is it to tell this,

here? We are democrats, and bound by all the pandects of monarchical

and aristocratical opinion, to be truculent and quarrelsome; as,

having no establishment, we are bound to be irreligious; and, so far

from gaining credit, I should be set down, as one too sensitive to

see the faults of his own country.

Conversing with a very clever woman, the other day, on the subject

of field sports, she gave a sudden shudder, and exclaimed—“but, then

your rattlesnakes!” I laughed, and told her, that I had never seen a

rattlesnake, out of a cage, and that, particular places excepted, in

a country nearly as large as Europe, they were unknown in America.

She shook her head incredulously, closing the conversation, by

observing, “that a _country_, which contained rattlesnakes, could

scarcely be agreeable to walk in.”—What are a thousand leagues to

such an opinion?

Such notions is the American condemned to meet with, here, not only

daily, but hourly, and without ceasing, if he should mingle with the

people. The prejudices of the English, against us, against the land

in which we live, against the entire nation, morally, physically,

and politically, circulate in their mental systems, like the blood

in their veins, until they become as inseparable from the thoughts

and feelings, as the fluid of life is indispensable to vitality. I

say it, not in anger, but in sorrow, when I tell you, that I do not

believe the annals of the world can present another such instance of

a people, so blindly, ignorantly, and culpably misjudging a friendly

nation, as the manner in which England, at this moment, in nearly

all things, misjudges us. And yet, with this fact staring us in the

face, known to every man who visits the country, a few _serviles_

excepted, told to us by all foreigners, and as obvious as the sun at

noon day, there is not, probably, an American, with the exception

of political men who are sustained by party, that has a name of

sufficient reputation to reach these shores, who does not hold his

reputation at home, not only at the mercy of this country, but at the

mercy of any miscreant in it, who may choose to insert three or four

paragraphs, to his credit or discredit, in any of the periodicals of

the day! Really, one is tempted to exclaim with that countryman, who

heard a salute from a seventy-four, “now, do I know, we are a great

people!”

My admiration of the growth and immensity of London, increases

every time I have occasion to pass its frontiers. I was struck with

a remark made to me, here, by Lord H——, who said—“the want of a

capital is one of the greatest difficulties, with which you have to

contend in America.” Of course, he meant by a capital, not a seat of

government, but a large town, in which the intelligence and influence

of the country, periodically assembled, and whence both might

radiate, like warmth from the sun, throughout the nation.

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