City of Conception de Mocha....Foundation....Situation....
Government....Tribunals....Bishop....Military....Churches....Houses
....Inhabitants and Dress....Provincial Jurisdiction....Produce
....Throwing the _Laso_....Fruit....Timber Trees....Shrubs....Mines
....Birds....Wild Animals....Lion Hunt....Shepherd Dogs....Breeding
Capons....Return to Conception.
I left Arauco at seven A. M. with two soldiers as guides and guards, for
the news having arrived of a declaration of war between England and
Spain, I was now considered a prisoner. We crossed the Carampangy, and
about noon reached the small village Colcura. Its situation is very
romantic, being a high promontory, which commands an extensive prospect
of the country and the sea, with a distant view of the island Santa
Maria. We dined at the house of the _cura_, who treated me with the
greatest attention. We afterwards rode about twelve miles to a large
farm house, and became the guests of the family for the night, enjoying
the good things provided by the hospitality of these kind people, who
welcomed us as though we had conferred rather than received a favour by
calling at their dwelling. The following morning, after taking _mate_,
we proceeded to San Pedro, on the banks of the Bio-bio. This is one of
the forts built by the Spaniards on the frontiers of Araucania. It was
taken and destroyed by the indians in 1599, but rebuilt by the Spaniards
in 1622. It is garrisoned by a detachment of troops from Conception.
During the late troubles in Chile it was alternately in the possession
of the Spanish and Patriot forces; but from the year 1819 the latter
have kept it in possession. Commanding the river where it is most
fordable, this fort served as a protection to Conception against the
combined fury of the Spaniards and indians.
In the afternoon we crossed the Bio-bio, and arrived at Conception. The
river Bio-bio, which is two miles in breadth at San Pedro, rises in the
Cordillera, and enters the sea about five miles to the south of
Talcahuano, the port of Conception, having two mountains at the mouth
called _las tetas de Bio-bio_, paps of Bio-bio. It is navigable by
canoes and flats to a considerable distance from the mouth. The finest
timber grows on its banks, which the wars of conquest and emancipation
have repeatedly deluged with blood!
The city of Conception de Mocha, or Penco, the original name of the
country where it stands, was founded in the year 1550 by Don Pedro de
Valdivia; sacked and burnt by the Toqui Lautaro in 1553, and again
destroyed in 1603. The indians were repulsed by Don Garcia Hurtado de
Mendoza, and it was rebuilt; but a dreadful earthquake ruined it in
1730, when the sea was driven up to the city and inundated the
surrounding country. Conception is built on a sandy uneven soil, six
miles east of Talcahuana, its sea-port, and about one mile north of the
Bio-bio A small river called the Andalien runs through the city,
supplying a beautiful fountain in the principal square. According to
Ulloa its latitude is 36° 43´ 15´´ south, and its longitude 72° 54´.
In 1803 the government of this city was in the hands of a Governor,
nominated by the King, and a _Cabildo_, corporation, at the head of
which were two Alcaldes ordinarios or mayors. The Cabildo is formed of
eight Regidors and four other officers, who are called, de officio,
Alferes real, royal ensign; Alcalde de provincia, provincial alcalde;
Alguasil mayor, city sheriff; and Fiel Executor, examiner of weights and
measures. Each member has an elective vote and a Sindico Procurador, who
has consulting powers.[4]
The alcaldes are annually elected by the regidors (without any
interference whatever of the governor) out of the resident citizens,
with the exception of ecclesiastics, soldiers, and debtors to the crown.
If one of the alcaldes die or be absent, the eldest regidor exercises
his functions. A demand of justice may be made to the alcalde, but there
is an appeal to the audience at Santiago, the capital of Chile. This
court was first established at Conception in 1567, but removed to
Santiago in 1574. For the military department an intendente, _maestre de
campo_, and quarter master are provided. Here is also a chamber of
finances, with an accountant and treasurer.
Conception is the see of a bishop, that of Imperial, as before stated,
having been transferred to this city in 1620. It is a suffragan of Lima,
and its chapter consists of a dean, archdeacon, and four prebendaries.
Besides the armed militia of the place and province, a regular military
force has always been kept up ready to repel any attempt of the
Araucanians on Conception, the frontier towns or forts. Since 1819 an
army has been stationed here under the command of General Freire, upon
whom the indians have on one occasion made an attack. They were led by
Benavides, and passed to Talcahuano, where they committed several
murders.
A new cathedral has been begun, but owing to the convulsed state of the
country the work is suspended, and will probably never be resumed. The
building is of brick and stone, and possesses some merit. The timber
which had been collected for this edifice was applied to other purposes
by the Spanish General Sanches. There are four conventual churches--the
Franciscan, Dominican, Agustinian, Mercedarian; one nunnery with the
avocation of our Lady of Conception, and the hospital of San Juan de
Dios. The convents are attached to their respective provincialates of
Santiago. When General Sanches retired from Conception in 1819, he
ordered several of the best houses in the city to be burnt, opened the
nunnery, and took the nuns with him, but abandoned them at Tucapel,
where these victims of a barbarous chief yet remain among the indians,
having been persuaded by Sanches and some Spanish priests, that to
return to their home would be treason to their King, the Lord's
anointed, and subject them to all the miseries temporal and eternal of
an excommunication _de ipso facto incurrenda_.
The houses are commonly one story high, but some are two, built of
_tapia_, mud walls; or _adoves_, large sun-dried bricks, and all of
them are tiled. The largest have a court-yard in front, with an entrance
through arched porches, and heavy folding doors, having a postern on one
side. Two small rooms usually complete the front view. The windows have
iron gratings, with many parts of them gilt, and inside shutters, but no
glass. This article has been too dear, and it is consequently only used
in the windows of the principal dwelling apartments of the richer
classes. On each side of the court, or _patio_, there are rooms for
domestics, the younger branches of the family, and other purposes. In
front of the entrance are the principal ones, generally three; a species
of large hall, furnished with antique chairs, with leather backs and
seats, and one or more clumsy couches to correspond in shape and
hardness, a large table made of oak or some similar wood, and very often
a few old full-length portraits of persons belonging to the family,
hanging in gilt frames. The beams of the roof, which are visible, are
not unfrequently ornamented with a profusion of carved work. Two folding
doors open into the parlour: the side next the front patio is raised
about twelve inches above the floor, which is carpetted, and furnished
with a row of low stools, covered with crimson velvet, with cushions to
match at their feet, and a small table about eighteen inches high, as a
work table, or for the convenience of making mate. This portion of the
parlour is allotted to the ladies, who sit upon it cross-legged: a
custom no doubt derived from the moors. If a gentleman be on familiar
terms with the family, he will take a seat on one of the stools on the
_estrado_, or cross his legs and sit among the ladies; more especially
if he can play on the guitar, or sing, which are the favourite
accomplishments. Other male visitors, after bowing to the ladies, seat
themselves on the opposite side, where chairs are placed to match the
stools and cushions. Facing the entrance to the parlour is the principal
dormitory, with an alcove at the end of the estrado, where a state bed
is displayed, ornamented with a profusion of gilt work, and fitted up
with velvet, damask, or brocade curtains, and gold or silver lace and
fringe. The sheets and pillow cases are of the finest linen, and trimmed
with deep lace. Not unfrequently one or more silver utensils peep from
underneath. It appears as if the whole attention of the females were
devoted to this useless pageant, which is only used on the occasion of a
birth, when the lady receives the first visits of congratulation.
Behind this part of the building there is another court, or patio,
where the kitchen and other appropriate apartments are situated, and
behind the whole is the garden. Thus it is not uncommon for a house to
occupy fifty yards in front and eighty yards in depth, including the
garden. The patios have corridors round them, the roofs of which are
supported by wooden pillars. The dwellings of the lower classes are on
the same plan, except that they have no courts or patios, the fronts
being open to the street; but they have usually a garden at the back,
where the kitchen is built separately from the house, as a precaution
against fire.
In the principal square stand the cathedral and bishop's palace on one
side; the barracks with a corridor on another; the governor's palace and
its offices on the third, and some of the larger houses on the fourth.
The extent of the square is about one hundred yards on each side. The
streets cross each other at right angles. The generality of the cities
and large towns in South America are built according to this
arrangement.
Among the inhabitants are to be found some families of ancient nobility.
The present Duke de San Carlos, a grandee of the first class, and late
Spanish Ambassador in England, is of the family of the Caravajales, and
a native of Conception.
The dress of the men is similar to the European, but either a long
Spanish cloak or a poncho is worn over it, the latter being generally
preferred, particularly for riding--an exercise of which both the ladies
and gentlemen are very fond, and in which they excel. The women wear a
bodice fancifully ornamented, and over a large round hoop, a plaited
petticoat of coloured flannel, black velvet or brocade. In the house
they have no head dress, but in the streets, if going to church, the
head is covered with a piece of brown flannel, about a yard broad, and
two long; if on pleasure or a visit, a black hat similar to the men's is
worn, under which a muslin shawl is thrown over the head. Many of the
young women prefer the _basquiña y manton_, a black silk or stuff
petticoat without a hoop, and a black silk or lace veil; but others like
the hoop, as it shews their slender waists to advantage. The hair is
braided, or platted, hanging in loose tresses down their backs. The
ladies are so fond of jewellery that necklaces, ear-rings, bracelets and
finger-rings are never dispensed with; and some of the principal wear
diamonds and other precious stones of great value. The rosary, too, is a
necessary part of the dress of both old and young.
During the summer, and in fine weather, the evening is dedicated to a
promenade, generally on the banks of the Bio-bio, and afterwards to
friendly visits. The luxury of harmony and friendship is enjoyed in all
its extent. The guitar, the song, the dance and refreshments are to be
found in every street. Conviviality takes the reins, whilst affection
and esteem curb the grosser passions.
The climate is similar to that of the southern provinces of France. The
winter season is rainy, but not cold; and the heat of the summer sun is
moderated by the winds from the south, which are cooled by travelling
over the Pacific; or by those from the east, which are refreshed by
passing over the snowy tops of the Cordillera.
The jurisdiction of Conception extends from the river Maule in 34° 50´
to Cape Lavapies in 37° 10´. In it are the _correginientos_ or
prefectures of Puchacay and Rere. Its principal towns and villages are
Gualqui, San Juan, Quilpolemu, Luanco, Villavicencio, Comicó, and
Chillan, which was ruined by the Araucanians in 1599, and has not since
been a place of much note.
The inhabitants of this province consist of a few Spaniards, some white
creoles, mestizos, a few slaves of different colours, and fewer indians,
the aboriginal tribe of Promaucians being now extinct. The whites or
Creoles are a very fine race. The men are well formed, and have regular
features and good complexions. The women are generally handsome and
remarkably polite. The mestizos can scarcely be distinguished from the
whites, and it is perhaps their situation in life, not the
uncontroulable accident of birth which constitutes the difference. The
greatest blessing to a stranger, hospitality, is the constant inmate, or
rather ruler of every house, cottage or cabin; and, contrary to the
rites of other hospitable people, who limit this virtue to a stated
period, the longer a stranger remains the more kindly is he treated.
Those who come to visit are often tempted to establish a residence, and
may positively call themselves strangers at home.
Nature has been extremely bountiful to this country. Its equable and
mild climate, and its rich soil produce every fruit, pulse and vegetable
known in Europe, if we except some exotics, which have been reared in
the more southern latitudes: oranges, lemons, sugar-cane, bananas and
sweet potatoes do not thrive here, owing perhaps more to the cold rains
in the winter than to any other cause. Horned cattle, and horses, of an
excellent quality, are in great plenty. The vineyards are numerous and
fertile. Those near the river Maule yield a grape of a very superior
taste, from which a large supply of wine is produced for home
consumption and for the Lima market, where any quantity is acceptable
and finds a ready sale. For want of proper vessels, however, a large
portion is lost, and the quality of the whole much injured. Light wines
might be made equal to the best French, and generous ones equal to
Sherry and Madeira. A sort of wine called Muscadel far exceeds that of
the same name in Spain, and is quite as good as Frontignac. The simple
utensils used are made of baked clay, in which the juice is fermented
and the wines preserved, having only a wooden cover. Notwithstanding
such disadvantages, some of the wines are of remarkably good strength
and flavour. Their brandy, from a want of proper vessels, is also
greatly deteriorated. The vines mostly grow on espaliers, and are not
detached stems as in the generality of the European vineyards.
Excellent wheat is produced in great abundance, the crops yielding from
eighty to one hundred fold. Very large quantities are annually sent to
Lima, Guayaquil, Panama, and Chiloe. The average price at Conception is
ten reals for 216 pounds weight, about five shillings and sixpence; and
at Lima thirty reals, or sixteen shillings and sixpence. It may be
considered the great staple commodity of the country.--Barley, maize,
_garbansos_, beans, _quinua_, and lentils are also cultivated for
exportation, and yield heavy crops. Potatoes, radishes and other
esculents, as well as all kinds of culinary vegetables and useful herbs
are raised in the gardens. The _zapallo_ is very much and justly
esteemed, being, when green, equal to asparagus, and when ripe, similar
to a good potatoe. It will keep in a dry place for six months. Tobacco
was formerly grown near the river Maule, but the royal monopoly put an
end to its cultivation, which on the emancipation of the country will
probably again be attended to.
The greater portion of these rich lands is appropriated to the breeding
and fattening of horned cattle, goats and sheep, and the necessary
attendance upon them forms the chief occupation of the lower classes.
The generality of the cows are never milked, but are left to rear their
calves in the plains. When the latter are a year old they are separated,
branded, and put on another part of the farm, for enclosed fields or
pastures are a refinement with which the graziers of South America are
unacquainted. Indeed the farms themselves are divided by such landmarks
as a hill, a mountain, a river, the sea, &c. The price of land being
low, disagreements respecting boundaries are very rare.
Land in the interior, of such quality as to produce every sort of grain,
or to feed all kinds of cattle, is often sold for a dollar, or even much
less, the _quadra_, one hundred square yards, being more than two acres.
When the horned cattle are sufficiently fat, or rather at the killing
season, which is about the months of February and March, from five
hundred to a thousand, according to the size of the farm, are
slaughtered. The whole of the fat is separated from the meat and melted,
forming a kind of lard called _grasa_, which is employed in domestic
purposes. The tallow is also kept separate, and the meat is jerked. This
process is performed by cutting the fleshy substance into slices of
about a quarter of an inch thick, leaving out all the bones. The natives
are so dexterous at this work that they will cut the whole of a leg, or
any other large part of a bullock into one uniformly thin piece. The
meat thus cut is either dipped into a very strong solution of salt and
water, or rubbed over with a small quantity of fine salt. Whichever mode
of curing is adopted, the whole of the jerked meat is put on the hide
and rolled up for ten or twelve hours, or until the following morning.
It is then hung on lines or poles, to dry in the sun, which being
accomplished, it is made into bundles, lashed with thongs of fresh hide,
forming a kind of network, and is ready for market. In this operation it
loses about one third of its original weight. The dried meat, _charqui_,
finds immediate sale at Lima, Arica, Guayaquil, Panama and other places.
Besides the large quantity consumed in Chile, it furnishes a great part
of the food of the lower classes, the slaves, and particularly the
seamen, being the general substitute for salt beef and pork. The _grasa_
and tallow are also readily sold at the places above mentioned, and are
of more value than the meat. The hides are generally consumed in making
bags for grain, pulse, &c., thongs for the various purposes to which
rope is applied in Europe, or leather of a very good quality.
The slaughtering season is as much a time of diversion for the
inhabitants of this country as a sheep-shearing is in England. For two
or three days the peasants, _huasos_, are busy collecting the cattle
from the woods and mountains, and driving them into an enclosure made
for the purpose. The fat and lean cattle being mixed together, the
latter are separated from the former, and driven out; after which one
fixed upon for slaughter is allowed to pass the gate, where a peasant
stands armed with a sharp instrument in the shape of a crescent, having
the points about a foot apart, and as the beast passes he first cuts the
hamstring of one leg, and then of the other. Should he miss his aim, a
bystander follows the animal at full gallop, and throws the laso over
its horns, by which it is caught and detained till another comes up, and
either hamstrings or casts a second laso round its hind legs, when the
two men, riding in different directions, throw the beast down, and
immediately kill it. One of them now takes off the skin, collects into
it the tallow and fat, which with the meat he carries to a shed, when
the process of jerking, salting, &c. as already described, is
immediately begun.
The females in the mean time are all busy cutting up the fat, frying it
for grasa, and selecting some of the finer meat for presents and home
consumption. The tongues are the only part of the head that is eaten,
the remainder being left to rot. In the above manner great numbers of
cattle are annually killed, their bones being left to whiten on the
ground where they fed.
It is surprizing to Europeans and other strangers to see with what
dexterity the laso is thrown. Made of platted or twisted raw hide, it is
about one and a half inch in circumference, sometimes less, and being
greased in the process of its manufacture, is extremely pliable,
stronger than any other kind of rope of treble the thickness, and very
durable. The length is from twenty to thirty feet, and at one end is a
noose, through which a part of the thong being passed a running knot is
formed. Instead of the noose there are occasionally a button and loop.
The _huaso_ (or laso thrower) extending the opening formed by passing
the thong through the noose, lays hold of the laso, and begins to whirl
it over his head, taking care that the opening does not close. Having
determined on his object the laso is thrown with unerring precision. A
bullock is caught by the horns, and a horse or a sheep by the neck; and
as this is often done at full speed, the peasant will wind the end of
the laso which he holds round his body, and suddenly stopping his horse,
the entangled animal receives such a check that it is frequently upset.
One end of the laso is often made fast to the sursingle, or girth of the
saddle, particularly when a bull or large bullock is to be caught. On
such occasions the horse, as if aware of the resistance he will have to
make, turns his side towards the object, and inclines his body in the
opposite direction. I have seen him dragged along by the beast, his feet
making furrows in the ground, for more than two yards. The people are so
expert in this art and so attached to it, that it is deemed quite
disgraceful to miss the object. Several of the higher classes exercise
it as an amusement, and not only in Chile, but in almost every part of
South America which I visited; all classes, when residing in the
country, carry the laso behind the saddle. Even the children are often
seen throwing the laso, and catching the poultry, dogs and cats, in the
houses, yards or streets. Thus this necessary accomplishment grows up
with these people. In the late wars it has not been uncommon for the
militia to carry their lasos, with which great numbers of Spanish
soldiers have been caught and strangled. The rider being at full speed,
the moment it was thrown, the unfortunate fellow who happened to be
entangled could not extricate himself, and was dragged at the heels of
his adversary's horse until he was killed.
Goats are fattened for their tallow and skins, which latter besides
their application to the purposes of holding wine, spirits, cider, &c.
are generally tanned with the bark of the _palque_ or the _peumo_,
instead of that of oak, and for shoes and similar articles make an
excellent leather, called _cordovan_. The goats are altogether
productive of great profit.
Some of the horses in the province of Conception are excellent, being
similar in size and shape to the famous Andalusian. They are much valued
in all South America, and fetch very high prices in Peru. I have seen
them at Quito, which, considering the difficulties of transport that are
to be surmounted, is a very great distance; but although every effort
has been used to preserve the breed out of the territory of Chile, it
has as yet been unavailing.
All kinds of provisions are plentiful in this province; poultry is
remarkably cheap, fat and well flavoured; ducks and geese breed twice
every year; turkeys and barn door fowls during the whole year; and from
the mildness of the climate the broods thrive with little loss. The
prices are consequently low: a good fat turkey may be bought for about
one shilling, and fowls for sixpence a couple.
Apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, plums and cherries, are produced in
such profusion that they are considered of no value. Figs are abundant
and good; and the strawberry grows wild; I have seen some nearly as
large as a hen's egg. The melons and _sandias_, water melons, are also
very large, and are extremely nice, particularly the latter, to which
the natives are partial. Olives do not thrive here. Near the river Maule
there are cocoa nut trees or palms, differing from the other species of
the same genus in the size of the nut, which is usually about as big as
a walnut. Some of the trees are thirty feet high; the trunk is
cylindrical, and free from leaves except at the top, where, similar to
other palms, they form a circle, presenting a most beautiful appearance.
The flowers are in four large clusters at the top of the tree, from
whence the leaves spring. When in bud they are enclosed in a fibrous
woody sheath, and when the fruit begins to form the spathe divides
itself into two parts, each about three feet long and two broad. A bunch
or cluster, often contains as many as a thousand nuts. Nothing can be
more striking than this tree under the burden of its fruit, over which
the branches form a kind of dome, supported by the column-like stem. The
fruit resembles in every respect the tropical cocoa nut; the kernel is
globular, having a space in the centre, which, when the nut is green, is
filled with an agreeable milky tasted liquor, but when dry is quite
empty. A curious method is employed for divesting the nuts of their
outer rind. They are given to the horned cattle, and being swallowed by
them, the filaceous substance is digested, and the nuts voided quite
clean. All those sent to market have previously undergone this process!
If a bunch of flowers or green nuts be cut from the palm, a large
quantity of thick sweet sap, similar to honey, is yielded, and on the
stem of the tree being tapped the same liquor is produced; this
operation however weakens it so much, that the palm either dies or gives
no more fruit for a number of years. The greatest quantity of this sap
is obtained by cutting down the tree, and lighting a fire at the end
where the branches grow: as the tree burns, the sap is driven out at the
root and collected in calabashes; fuel is gradually supplied, until the
whole of the trunk is consumed, and all the sap extracted, which
sometimes amounts to about forty gallons. This tree seldom bears fruit
till it is one hundred years old. Whether it be indigenous to Chile, or
the produce of the tropical cocoa nut planted here, I could never
ascertain. The natives make baskets of the leaves, and sometimes thatch
their cottages with them. Walnuts are also grown, and together with
cocoa nuts are exported to Lima, Guayaquil, &c. The _gevuin_ is another
species of nut, called by the Spaniards _avellano_, from its taste being
like that of the hazel nut. This tree grows to the height of fifteen
feet; the fruit is round, about three quarters of an inch in diameter,
and covered with a coriaceous shell, which is at first green, afterwards
of an orange colour, and when ripe of a dark brown; the kernel is
divided into two lobes, and is generally toasted before being eaten. The
_molle_ may be classed without impropriety among the fruit trees,
because the indians prepare from its berries (which are black, the size
of peas, and grow in small clusters round the slender branches of the
tree) a kind of red and very palatable wine, called _chicha_ or _molle_.
Frazier says in his voyage, "it is as pleasant and as strong as wine, if
not more so." The taste is really agreeable, and its flavour peculiarly
aromatic.
The _maqui_ is another tree, bearing a fruit like a _guind_, or wild
cherry, from which a pleasant fermented beverage is made, called
_theca_. The people are fond of the fruit, and parties go into the woods
to gather it. A friend told me, that in one of these excursions, when a
boy, he had wandered into a wood to gather maqui, and seeing a woman in
a tree with her face of a purple colour, he supposed that she had been
rubbing it with the fruit for the sake of frightening him; however,
determined to shew his courage, he ascended the tree, when, to his great
surprise and terror, he found that it was an idiot belonging to the
village, who had hanged herself with her handkerchief tied to one of the
uppermost branches! The peumo produces a fruit which is much liked,
though I never could eat it on account of its strong oily and rather
rancid smell. The tree is tall, and its fruit has the appearance of
green olives; to prepare it for eating it is dipped in warm water, but
not boiled, because that operation renders it bitter. The pulp is
whitish and buttery, and I have no doubt that as large a quantity of oil
might be obtained from it as from the olive. Great quantities of
_murtillas_, myrtle berries, are found in this province, and are very
delicate. Pernetty, who saw some in the Falkland Isles, or Malvinas,
says, "the fruit is of a beautiful appearance and very pleasant taste;
by being put into brandy with a little sugar, it forms a delicious
liquor, which has in a slight degree the smell of ambergris and of musk,
by no means disagreeable even to persons who dislike those perfumes."
From these berries the natives also make an agreeable fermented liquor,
_chicha de murtilla_. The _arrayan_, a myrtle, grows to the height of
seventy feet. The fruit, which is about the size of a large pea, is
eaten, and has a pleasant taste. A delicate liquor is made from it, and
the wood is very valuable.
The principal trees found in the province of Conception are the
_canelo_, or _boghi_, which grows to the height of fifty feet, and
produces good timber. It has two barks; the inner one is whitish, but
when dried assumes the colour of cinnamon, and somewhat resembles that
spice in taste. The Araucanians entertain so much veneration for this
tree, that a branch of it is always presented as a token of peace, and
when a treaty is concluded it is tied to the top of the Toqui's axe, and
the President's _baton_. The luma grows from forty to fifty feet high;
its wood is tough, and is used for small spars and oars, but it is too
heavy for masts. Large cargoes are sent to Lima for coach making and
rafters. On rich soils the _espino_ attains the size of an oak. Its wood
is very solid and of a dark brown, veined with black and yellow, and is
capable of receiving an excellent polish. It is used for cart wheels,
being very ponderous and durable, and makes excellent fuel, and the
hardest and best charcoal. The flowers of the espino are flosculous, of
a deep yellow colour, and so very fragrant that they are called
_aromas_. A species cultivated in the gardens bears a larger flower,
which having a long and slender footstalk, is often inserted by the
ladies in the flower of the jessamine and placed in their hair. The
joint scent of the two is delightful. The _pehuen_, or _pino de la
tierra_, grows in the southern parts of this province, but it arrives at
greater perfection in Araucania. It is from seventy to eighty feet high,
and eight in circumference. At the height of thirty feet it has
generally four opposite horizontal branches, which gradually decrease in
extent until they terminate in a point at the top, presenting the form
of a quadrangular pyramid. The cone, or fruit, resembles that of the
pine, and the seeds are considered a great delicacy. These _piñones_, as
they are called, are sometimes boiled, and afterwards, by grinding them
on a stone, converted into a kind of paste, from which very delicate
pastry is made. The pino is cultivated in different parts of this
province on account of its valuable wood and the piñones; it may be
said, indeed, to be the only tree, except those which yield wine, to
which the natives pay any attention. The resin exuding from it is called
_incienso_, and is used by the Chileans as incense.
The banks of the Bio-bio are thickly covered with both red and white
cedar trees, some of which are seventy feet high, and twenty in
circumference. They are split into slender planks, for slight work, but
their exportation from this province is not great, because the deals can
be purchased at a much lower price in Chiloe, where, I have been
informed by persons of veracity, there are cedars which yield from eight
to nine hundred boards, twenty feet long, twelve inches broad and one
thick. It is said that water keeps better at sea in casks made of the
red cedar, than in those of any other wood. The _floripondio_ grows to
the height of six feet, and has a profusion of delightfully fragrant
pendant flowers, which are white, bell-shaped, and from eight to ten
inches long, and three in diameter at the mouth. Their odour partakes of
that of the lily, and one tree, when in bloom, is sufficient to perfume
a whole garden. The floripondio arrives at greater perfection on the
coasts of Peru, where it is seen in the hedgerows. A species of cactus,
_quisco_, is very common in some parts of this province; it bears thorns
from eight to nine inches long, of which the females make knitting
needles.
There are a great variety of shrubs in the forests of Conception, and
some of them are very aromatic. Those which are particularly useful for
dyeing are the _diu_, _thila_ and _uthin_, of which the bark and leaves
dye black. The juice of the berries of the _tara_, and of the _mayu_ are
used for writing ink, as well as for dyeing. The leaves of the _culen_,
another shrub, have a taste somewhat similar to tea, for which they are
often substituted. They are considered a vermifuge and a tonic. Frazier
says, that the culen produces a balsam, very efficacious in healing
wounds; but I never witnessed this quality. Senna grows luxuriantly near
the Maule, and is equally as good as that of the Levant; an infusion of
its leaves is often given, and I believe successfully, as a diuretic,
particularly in calculous complaints. A shrub called here the _palqui_,
and in Peru the holy herb, _yerba santa_, is thought to be an antidote
to inflammatory diseases; for this purpose the green leaves are soaked
in water, then rubbed between the hands, and again soaked, until the
water be quite green, in which state a copious draught is taken; and for
external inflammation it is applied as a wash. There are several wild
plants which yield bright and permanent colours for dyeing. Red is
obtained from the _relbun_, a species of madder; _Contra yerba_, a kind
of agrimony, furnishes yellow, as does another plant called _poquel_; a
violet is procured from the _culli_ and the _rosoli_; and the _panqui_
yields a permanent black. This peculiar plant grows in moist swampy
places; its height is from five to six feet, and the principal stem is
sometimes six inches in diameter; the leaves are roundish, rough and
thick, and at full growth are three feet in diameter. When the plant is
in perfection, the natives cut it down, and split the stem, which
contains a large portion of tanin. The black for dyeing is obtained from
the expressed juice of the root.
I scarcely ever met with any person in this province who did not assure
me that gold mines were to be found in numberless places; I certainly
never saw any worked, but the universal assurance of the inhabitants,
and what has been written by Molina, Frazier, and other persons of
veracity, leave me no room to doubt their existence.
Among the feathered tribe I observed a bird about the size of a pullet,
having black and white feathers, a thick neck, rather large head, a
strong bill a little curved, and on the fore part of the wings two
reddish spurs, like those of a young dunghill cock. It is on the alert
the moment it is alarmed, and rising from the ground, hovers over the
object which has disturbed it. The noise which it makes when in this
situation, and which is probably intended as a signal of danger to other
birds; has induced some of the natives to call it _tero-tero_; but
others name it _despertador_, awakener. Finches, _gilgueros_, and the
_thili_, a kind of thrush, are numerous, as are the grey and red
partridge. Both the latter birds are much esteemed, though I preferred
the large wood pigeons, _torcasas_, some of which are the size of a
small pullet. Feeding entirely on herbage, they are particularly fond of
the leaves of turnips, and they make their appearance in such numbers
that they would destroy a whole field in one day. Their flesh is of a
dark colour, but juicy and savoury. Of the larger species of herons I
saw three different kinds, one as large as the European heron, and quite
similar to it; one of a milk white colour, with a neck more than two
feet long, and its red slender legs equally long; and another not quite
so large, with a beautiful tuft of white feathers on its head. In
several places near the coast I observed flamingoes, and was charmed
with their delicate pink plumage; they are not eaten by the natives. I
also remarked several species of wild ducks, and three of wild geese;
one called of the Cordillera is very good eating, the others I was told
are strong and fishy. The wild swan is as large as the European swan,
but is not so handsome. It has a black bill and feet, black and white
plumage, and is in shape much like a goose, but is never eaten. I had in
my possession a tame eagle, which measured ten feet from one tip of its
wings to the other; its breast was white spotted with black, the neck
and back also black, and the tail and wings of a brown tinge with
transverse black stripes. I saw several of the same kind and others of a
smaller species in the woods. Parrots very much abound, but their
plumage is not handsome, being of a dirty dead green. These birds are
very destructive of the fruit and maize.
At Villavicencio I was highly entertained in hunting a _pagi_, or
Chilean lion. On our arrival the people were preparing to destroy this
enemy to their cattle; several dogs were collected from the neighbouring
farms, and some of the young men of the surrounding country were in
great hopes of taking him alive with their lasos, and of afterwards
baiting him in the village for the diversion of the ladies; whilst
others were desirous of signalizing the prowess of their favourite dogs.
All of them were determined to kill this ravenous brute, which had
caused much damage, particularly among their horses. The hunt was the
only subject of conversation on the Sunday, which was the day fixed for
its occurrence. At four o'clock we left the village, more than twenty in
number, each leading a dog, and having a chosen laso on his arm, ready
to throw at a moment's warning. About a mile from the village we
separated, by different bye-roads, into five or six parties, the men
taking the dogs on their horses, to prevent, as they said, the
possibility of the scent being discovered by the pagi. All noise was
avoided--even the smoking of segars was dispensed with, lest the smell
should alarm their prey, and they should lose their sport. The party
which I joined consisted of five individuals. After riding about four
miles we arrived at a small rivulet, where a young colt was tied to a
tree, having been taken for that purpose. We then retired about three
hundred yards, and the colt being alone began to neigh, which had the
desired effect, for before sunset one of our party, placed in advance,
let go his dog and whistled, at which signal three other dogs were
loosed and ran towards the place where the colt had been left. We
immediately followed, and soon found the pagi with his back against a
tree, defending himself against his adversaries. On our appearance he
seemed inclined to make a start and attempt an escape. The lasos were
immediately in motion, when four more dogs came up, and shortly
afterwards their masters, who hearing the noise had ridden to the spot
as fast as the woods would permit them. The poor brute seemed now to
fear the increase of his enemies. However he maintained his post and
killed three of our dogs; at which the owner of one of them became so
enraged, that he threw his laso round the neck of the pagi, when the
dogs, supposing the onset more secure, sprang on him, and he was soon
overpowered, but so dreadfully wounded and torn that it became necessary
to put an end to his life. The length of this animal from the nose to
the root of the tail was five feet four inches, and from the bottom of
the foot to the top of the shoulder thirty-one inches. Its head was
round, and much like that of a cat, the upper lip being entire, and
supplied with whiskers; the nose flat, the eyes large, of a brownish
hue, but very much suffused with blood; the ears short and pointed. It
had no mane. The neck, back and sides were of a dusky ash colour, with
some yellowish spots; the belly of a dirty white; the hair on its
buttocks long and shaggy. Each jaw was armed with four cutting, four
canine, and sixteen grinding teeth; each of its fore paws and hind feet
with five toes, and very strong talons. Four lasos attached to the
girths of the saddles of two horses were fastened to the pagi, which
was thus dragged to the village, where we arrived about nine o'clock,
and were received by the whole of the inhabitants with shouting and
rejoicing. The remainder of the night was spent in dancing and
carousing.
The people informed me that the favourite food of the pagi is
horse-flesh; that watching a good opportunity it jumps upon the back of
its prey, which it worries, tearing the flesh with one paw whilst it
secures its hold with the other; after sucking the blood it drags the
carcase to some hiding place, covers it with leaves, and returns when
hungry to devour it. If it enter a place where horned cattle are kept,
the bulls and cows immediately form a circle, and place the calves and
young cattle in the centre; they then face their enemy boldly, and not
unfrequently oblige him to retreat, on which happening, the bulls follow
him and often gore him to death. It would therefore appear to be more
from fear than choice that he is attached to the flesh of horses. The
animal was never known to attack a man; so timid is he of the human
race, that he runs away at the appearance of a child, which may perhaps
be accounted for from the abundance of cattle supplying him so easily
with food that he is seldom in want of flesh.
The _vicuña_ and _guanaco_ are known in Chile; I shall however defer a
description of them until I treat of the _llama_ and _alpaca_ of Peru.
The _chilihueque_, spoken of by several travellers, seems to be the same
as the _llama_, but as I never saw it I am unable to determine this
point. The description and properties of the two are very similar. The
_culpen_ is a species of fox, and is very destructive to poultry and
lambs. It is rather more foolish than daring, but not void of the latter
quality. It will advance within eight or ten paces of a man, and after
looking at him for some time, will retire carelessly, unless pursued,
when it betakes itself to the bush. Its colour is a dark reddish brown,
with a long straight tail covered with shaggy hair; its height is about
two feet. For the preservation of the lambs against this enemy the
natives train their dogs to the care of the flock in a curious manner. A
young puppy is taken, before its eyes are open, and an ewe is forced to
suckle it every night and morning until it can follow the flock, when,
either under the direction of a shepherd boy, or in company with an old
trained dog, it is taught to keep the sheep together, to follow them in
the morning to graze, and to drive them to the fold at night. It is
never allowed to follow its master. No shepherd could be more faithful
to his trust than one of these dogs; it leaves the fold with the flock
in the morning, watches it carefully during the day, keeping off the
foxes, eagles and other animals, and returns with it at sunset. It
sleeps in the fold, and the sheep become so habituated to the society of
their guardian that they allow him to wander among them without any
alarm. At night, when the dog arrives with his charge, he first drives
them into the fold; he then runs two or three times round it, as if to
be certain of its safety against any lurking enemy, and afterwards goes
to the house and barks, but immediately returns to the fold, where he
waits for his supper. If it be brought he remains quiet, otherwise he
again visits the house and barks until he is properly attended to, when
he lays himself down among the sheep. Some people have imagined that it
is a peculiar breed of dogs that are so trained, but this is an error
which experience enables me to contradict; for I have seen several
different kinds in charge of different flocks, the whole of their
sagacity being the effect of their training. Whilst on the topic of the
training of animals I cannot refrain from mentioning the ridiculous
appearance of the capons, which are taught to rear broods of chickens.
When one or more hens bring forth their young, these are taken from
them, and a capon being caught, some of the feathers are plucked from
its breast and the inner part of its thighs, and the animal is flogged
with nettles, and is then put under a basket with the young chickens.
This is generally done in the evening, and in the morning, after
brooding the chickens all night, the old capon struts forth with its
adopted family, clucking and searching for food with as much activity as
the most motherly old hen! I was told that capons rear a brood much
better than hens; and I have seen one of them with upwards of thirty
chickens. The hen being thus freed from her brood soon begins to lay
eggs again, which is a very great advantage.
After an excursion of three weeks, I returned to Conception with my
friend, Don Santiago Dias, to whom I brought letters of introduction
from my good host at Arauco, Don Nicolas del Rio, which were most
willingly attended to, and rendered my detention as a prisoner of war a
delightful series of excursions into the country, and of parties of
pleasure in the city.
FOOTNOTE:
[4] I have made particular mention of the form of the Cabildos, because
they have been preserved since the revolution just as they existed
before it.