Valdivia....Port....Fortifications....River....City-foundation
....Revolutions....Inhabitants....Garrison....Government....Rents
and Resources....Churches....Exiles....Missions in the Province of
Valdivi....War with the Indians and Possession of Osorno....Extract
from a Letter in the Araucanian Tongue, and Translation.
The following account of the city and province of Valdivia is partly
extracted from mss. in my possession, found in the archives of that
city.
Valdivia, situated in 39° 50´ south latitude, and in longitude 73° 28´,
is one of the best ports on the western shores of South America: it is
also the strongest, both from its natural position and its
fortifications. The mouth of the harbour is narrow, and the San Carlos
battery on the small promontory on the south, with that of Niebla on the
north side, commands the entrance, their balls crossing the passage.
There are likewise on the south side the batteries Amargos, the high and
low Chorocamayo, and at the bottom of the bay the castle Corral,
commanding the anchorage. In the small island of Mansera is a battery
for the protection of the mouth of the river leading to the city,
besides an advanced post on the south side at Aguada del Ingles, and
two, La Avansada and El Piojo, on the north. At the taking of Valdivia
by Lord Cochrane in 1820, one hundred and eighteen pieces of cannon, of
eighteen and twenty-four pounds calibre, were found mounted. Some of
them were beautiful brass pieces, particularly two eighteens at Mansera,
which measured eleven feet in length, were handsomely carved and
embossed, and bore the date of 1547. His lordship sent them to
Valparaiso, where I had the mortification to see them broken up and
converted into grape shot, by the orders of Governor Crus; who thus
deprived Chile of a noble monument of her naval glory, and Chilean
posterity of the pleasure of viewing, as their property, part of those
engines brought from the old, for the purpose of enslaving the new
world! The anchorage is good, being most completely sheltered, and
capable of holding a great number of ships.
On the north side of the harbour is the river, which leads to the city.
Its banks are covered with trees, suitable for ship-building and many
other purposes. Among them are the white and red cedar, _alerces_; the
_pellinos_, a species of oak, and the _luma_. The river abounds with
fish, particularly the _pege rey_, the _lisa_, and the _bagre_. At its
mouth are caught _robalo_, _corbina_, _choros_, _xaiba_ and _apancoras_.
The city of Valdivia stands on the south side of the river, and is
sixteen miles from the port. On the left, ascending the river, are some
few remains of the Dutch settlements. The natives call them _hornos de
los Olandeses_; supposing that Henry Brun's vessels anchored here, and
that these ruins are the wrecks of the ovens built by the Dutch for the
purpose of baking their bread. The tradition is quite incredible, for
vessels cannot enter the river, there not being above four feet water in
some places, and the channel being so extremely narrow, that a launch
cannot pass. Indeed at low water the large canoes of the inhabitants
have to wait for the tide.
The city was built in 1553, and bears the name of its founder. The
indians took it from the Spaniards in 1599, and destroyed it in 1603,
when the inhabitants fled to the port, from whence some of them passed
to Chile. In 1642 the Marquis of Mansera, Viceroy of Peru, sent the
Colonel Don Alonzo de Villanueva as governor, with orders to capture the
city, which he effected by a singular ruse de guerre. Landing to the
southward of Valdivia, he introduced himself alone among the indians,
with whom he remained two years, and having gained the confidence and
esteem of some of the Caciques, he solicited them to appoint him their
governor in Valdivia; assuring them that such an election would produce
a reconciliation with the Spaniards, and insure the annual presents.
This request was acceded to; and in 1645 the city was rebuilt and
repeopled. Some of the inhabitants are descendants of noble European
families, but the greater part are those of officers and soldiers who
have been sent at different times to garrison the place; some are
indians, and a few slaves. The population amounted to 953 in 1765, and
in 1820 to 741: a decrease attributable to the emigration to Osorno, and
to many being employed in the armies of the contending parties. This
census does not include the garrison, which in 1765 consisted of 249
individuals, and in 1820, when taken by Lord Cochrane, of 829, besides a
remainder of 780 of the royal army.
Under the Spanish regime the government was administered by a military
officer, dependent on the President and Captain-general of Chile; but in
1813 the inhabitants declared themselves independent of all Spanish
authority. They however restored the old government in the year
following, and submitted to it until 1820, when Valdivia was
incorporated with the Republic of Chile. For the support of Valdivia a
_situado_ was annually sent from the royal treasuries of Lima and
Santiago. In the year 1807 this remittance amounted to 159,439 dollars,
and according to the original statement was distributed as follows:--
Staff expenses 10210
Ecclesiastical state 10530
Military expenses 89846
Workmen 1512
Presents to Caciques 306
------
112404
------
Supernumeraries 3365
Building and repairs of }
fortifications, hospital, &c.} 18670
Provisions for exiles, &c. 25000
------
Total 159439
======
In 1765 the _situado_ was 50992 dollars, and in 1646 it was only 28280.
Whilst the Spaniards held Valdivia the resources of its government were
very limited. Being a close port all foreign commerce was prohibited,
and the few taxes collected in the whole province, including the diesmo,
never exceeded 500 dollars.
In the city there is a parish church, another belonging to the
Franciscan convent of missionaries, formerly of the Jesuits, and a
chapel appertaining to the hospital of San Juan de Dios. The
ecclesiastical department was dependent on the see of Conception, but
the conventual was a branch of the establishment at Chillan, subject to
the provincialate of Santiago de Chile.
Valdivia was a place of exile, _presidio_, to which convicts were sent
from Peru and Chile. Their number was but small, and they were employed
in the public works.
The province of Valdivia extends from the river Tolten in 38° to the
Bueno in 40° 37´ south, and from the Andes to the Pacific, being about
52 leagues long and 45 wide. The three principal rivers in this province
are Tolten, Bueno and Valdivia. Their origin is in three separate lakes
of the Cordillera, from whence they run in a westerly direction,
receiving in their progress several smaller streams and emptying
themselves into the sea. Valdivia river enters the harbour of the same
name, which is the only one in the province. This river, after uniting
its waters to those of San Josef, Cayumapu, Ayenaguem, Putabla, Quaqua
and Angachi, besides a great number of rivulets and estuaries, becomes
navigable for canoes of 200 quintals or 20 tons burthen. Between the
fort Cruces and Valdivia several small but beautiful islands are found:
the principal are Realexo, Del Almuerso, Balensuela, El Islote, De Mota,
San Francisco, De Ramon, De Don Jaime and Del Rey, which is the largest,
being about seven leagues in circumference. There are besides a great
number of smaller ones. In all the streams and ravines in the
neighbourhood of the city and port are to be seen the vestiges of gold
washings, _labaderos_, which are at present totally neglected. After
heavy rains grains of gold as large as peas are often found, but there
are no accounts in the treasury of the working of any mines since the
year 1599, when the first revolution of the indians took place, and the
city fell into their hands. At Valdivia I saw two chalices made of the
gold thus accidentally collected.
"Tolten el Bajo is the northernmost mission. Situated between the rivers
Tolten and Chaqui, it extends about four miles along the sea coast, and
is one of the largest missions, _reducciones_, in the province,
containing about 800 indians. The Tolten rises in the lake Villarica. It
has no port, but is navigable with canoes; being too deep to be
fordable, it has a bridge, which gives the indians the command of the
road between Valdivia and Conception. Horned cattle and sheep are not
scarce here; and maize, peas, beans, potatoes, barley, and a small
quantity of wheat are cultivated; but in general the soil is not very
fertile. Though the indians are more submissive than those of some other
missions, they are equally prone to the common vices of drunkenness and
indolence. Their commerce consists in bartering coarse ponchos for
indigo, glass beads, and other trifles. At the annual visit of the
_comisario_ a kind of market is held for such traffic: at this visit the
indians renew the _parlamento_, or promise of fidelity to the King of
Spain. The comisario assures them, in a set speech, of the spiritual and
temporal advantages which they will derive from remaining faithful to
their King; and the Cacique, having in a formal harangue acknowledged
his conviction of the truth of this assurance, the indians, being on
horseback, make a skirmish with their lances and wooden swords,
_macanas_, and, riding up to the comisario, alight, and point their arms
to the ground, in sign of peace, which is all they ever promise. They
worship Pillian, and their ceremonies are the same as those of the rest
of the Araucanian nation: for although they call themselves Christians,
their religion is reduced to the ceremony of attending at mass, &c.
"Querli extends from Purulacu to the river Meguin, being about 18 miles,
and containing 70 indians. Their commerce is an exchange of coarse
ponchos, sheep and hogs, for indigo, beads, &c.
"Chanchan, which extends about 12 miles, contains 40 indians, produces
maize, peas, beans, barley, and a little wheat. Owing to the vicinity
of the fort de Cruces the indians are more docile and domesticated.
"Mariquina is about 54 miles in circumference, and contains 110 indians.
The soil is good, and there is an abundance of apples, some pears and
cherries.
"Chergue is 42 miles long and 4 broad. It contains 135 indians. Its
produce and commerce are similar to those of the places above mentioned.
"Huanigue is situated near the Cordillera, on the banks of lake Ranigue,
the source of the river Valdivia. This lake is about 20 miles in
circumference, and is rich in fish, particularly _pege_, _reyes_, and a
species of trout. In 1729 the indians of this mission revolted, and they
have never been sufficiently reconciled to admit of a missionary to
offer peace or fealty. The indians of Huanigue wear nothing on their
heads: for shirts they substitute a species of scapulary, made of raw
bullock's hide, covering it with the poncho. They are expert fishers,
and pay little attention to the cultivation of the soil, which is very
fertile.
"Villarica. The ruins of this city are yet visible, particularly those
of the walls of orchards and of a church. The town stood on the side of
a lake, bearing the same name, about 25 miles in circumference, and
abounding with fish. The soil is very fertile, and the indians raise
maize, potatoes, _quinua_, peas, beans, barley and wheat. Apple, pear,
peach and cherry-trees are seen growing where they were planted by the
Spaniards before the destruction of the city. The indians neither admit
missionaries nor comisario. They have all kinds of cattle and poultry,
which they exchange with other tribes for ponchos, flannels, &c. being
very averse to trade with the Spaniards.
"Ketate and Chadqui, containing about 280 indians, are at the distance
of 34 leagues from Valdivia. There is plenty of fruit, vegetables and
cattle; the soil is good, and the inhabitants docile; subject to
missionaries and comisario.
"Dongele, or Tolten Alto, is on the banks of a rapid river of the same
name. It is distant from Valdivia 120 miles, and possesses a rich soil,
productive of maize, peas and other pulse, fruit and cattle: there are
80 indians of manageable habits.
"Calle-calle and Chinchilca, 45 miles from Valdivia, contain some small
fertile vallies. The maize grown here is very large; indeed all the
vegetable productions are good, and the meat from their cattle is fat
and well-tasted. They have 70 peaceable Indians, who receive
missionaries and comisario.
"Llanos is the most fruitful part of the province of Valdivia. It is
about 48 miles long, from Tunco to the lake Rames, and on an average 15
broad. It produces wheat of an excellent quality, barley, all kinds of
pulse, and fruit. The beef and mutton are very fat and savoury. The
number of indians residing in the Llanos is 430. They are docile, and
not so drunken and indolent as other tribes. From a place called
Tenguelen to another, Guequenua, there are many vestiges of gold mines,
_labaderos_, where at some remote period a great number of persons must
have been employed in mining, which is at present entirely
neglected."[3]
As any authentic accounts of this almost unknown but highly interesting
country cannot fail to be acceptable, I shall here introduce some
extracts from the journal kept by Don Tomas de Figueroa y Caravaca,
during the revolution of the indians in the year 1792, Figueroa being
the person who commanded the Spanish forces sent against the Indians by
the government of Valdivia.
"October 3d I left Valdivia with an armed force of 140 men, and the
necessary ammunition and stores. We ascended the river
Pichitengelen, and the following morning landed at an appointed
place, where horses and mules were in readiness to convey us to
Dagllipulli; but the number of horses and mules not being
sufficient, I left part of our baggage and provisions behind, under
guard, and proceeded with the rest to Tegue, about six leagues
distant, where we arrived in the afternoon, and owing to the
badness of the road did not reach Dagllipulli before the 6th. I
encamped; and being informed in the afternoon, that some of the
rebels were in the neighbourhood, with a party of picked soldiers
and horse I scoured the woods, and burned twelve indians' houses,
filled with grain and pulse. After securing what I considered
useful for ourselves, I followed the indians in the road they had
apparently taken towards Rio-bueno, but on my arrival I learnt that
they had crossed the river in their canoes. I therefore immediately
returned to Dagllipulli. On the 10th the Caciques Calfunguir,
Auchanguir, Manquepan, and Pailapan came to our camp, and offered
to assist me against the rebels Cayumil, Qudpal, Tangol, Trumau,
and all those on the other side of Rio-bueno.--13th. An indian who
had been taken declared to me that the Cacique Manquepan was acting
a double part, he having seen him go to the enemy at night with his
_mosotones_.--16th. Burnt twenty-four houses belonging to the
indians, and seized thirty-two bullocks.--19th. I told the Cacique
Calfunguir that I doubted the fidelity of Manquepan, and that he
had been playing the _chueca_ (a game already described); at night
an indian came to my tent and told me that Calfunguir had joined
Manquepan; that both had gone to the rebels, taking with them their
mosotones, and that they would probably return immediately, in the
hopes of surprising me. However this did not occur; and on the
following morning I advanced with part of my force to Rio-bueno,
but did not arrive until the two Caciques had taken to a small
island in the river, leaving in my possession a number of horses
and cattle. Whilst stationed here two indian women were observed
to ride full speed towards the river, apparently determined to pass
over to the enemy, but some of the friendly indians took one of
them, and brought her to me, having killed the other. I questioned
her as to her motives for joining the rebels, but received no
answer; when the indians observing her obstinacy, put her and a
small child which she had in her arms to death. I retired to my
camp, taking with me the cattle, &c. left by the enemy on the bank,
of Rio-bueno.--21st. The traitor Manquepan came again to our camp,
and having consulted the whole of the friendly Caciques as to the
punishment which he and his comrades deserved, it was unanimously
determined, that he and all those who had come with him as spies
should be put to death. I immediately ordered my soldiers to secure
them, and having convinced them that I well knew their infamous
intentions and conduct, I ordered that Manquepan, and the eighteen
mosotones who had come with him into our camp as spies, should be
shot. This sentence was put in execution in the afternoon of the
same day.--29th. We finished a stackade, and mounted four
pedereroes at the angles, as a place of security in the event of
any unexpected assault. I sent to Valdivia forty women and
children, captured at different times in the woods.--Nov. 1st.
Three large canoes were brought to our camp, having ordered them to
be made, for the purpose of crossing Rio-bueno, should the rebels
persist in remaining on the opposite banks, or on the islands in
the river.--10th. After mass had been celebrated at three A. M. and
my soldiers exhorted to do their duty in defence of their holy
religion, their king and country, we marched down to the river
side, and launched our three canoes, for the purpose of crossing
over to one of those islands where the greater number of the rebels
appeared to have been collected. I embarked with part of the
troops, and arrived on the island without suffering any loss from
the stones, lances and shot of the enemy.
"Having landed, I observed a party of about a hundred indians on
mount Copigue, apparently determined to attack the division I had
left behind, which being observed, the division advanced and routed
the rebels.--During the night the indians abandoned their
entrenchments on the island, and we took possession of them.--On
the 11th, in the morning, I immediately landed part of my force on
the opposite shore and pursued the rebels. At eleven A. M. I came
up with part of them, commanded by the Cacique Cayumil, who was
killed in the skirmish. I ordered his head to be cut off and
buried, being determined to take it on my return to Valdivia. We
continued to pursue the enemy, and in the course of the day killed
twelve indians, one of whom was the wife of the rebel Cacique
Quapul. As it was almost impossible for me to follow the enemy any
further, our horses being tired, and it being insecure to remain
here, we returned to our camp on the 13th, taking with us 170 head
of horned cattle, 700 sheep and 27 horses, which had been abandoned
by the fugitives. A female indian was found in the woods, on our
return, with a murdered infant in her arms; she declared that her
child was crying, and that being fearful of falling into our hands
she had destroyed it.--21st. We marched to the banks of the Ravé,
where I had a _parlamento_ with the Caciques Catagnala and Ignil,
who, as a proof of their fidelity, offered to surrender the city
and territory of Osorno.--22nd. The Caciques Caril and Pallamilla,
with Ignil and Cataguala and all their mosotones, joined us, and we
marched towards the ruined city of Osorno, and having arrived at
the square or _plasa_, I directed the Spanish flag to be placed in
the centre, and in the presence of all the indians I asked the
Caciques if they made cession of this city and its territories to
his Majesty the King: to which they answered they did. I
immediately ordered the erection of an altar, and having placed the
troops and indians in front, high mass was chaunted by the
chaplain; after which I took the Spanish flag in my hand, and
placing myself between the altar and the troops, called attention,
attention, attention, and proclaimed three times Osorno, for our
Lord the King Charles the fourth and his successors: to which the
priest replied, amen, and the troops and indians gave repeated
_vivas_. A discharge of our pedereroes and small arms then took
place, and the Caciques came forward, and pointing their arms to
the ground in token of peace and fidelity, kissed the flag. The
remainder of the day was spent in feasting and rejoicing."
The above extract affords a fair specimen of the mode of warfare pursued
by the Spaniards and indians. The following is from a letter written in
the Araucanian tongue, as it is pronounced:--
"Ey appo tagni Rey Valdivia carapee wilmen Lonco gneguly mappu
ranco fringen. Carah nichfringen, fenten tepanlew pepe le pally
cerares fringuey Caky Mappuch hyly eluar Rupo gne suniguam Caaket
pu winca; engu frula Dios, gnegi toki el meu marry marry piami Jesu
Cristo gne gi mew piami."
TRANSLATION.
"The King's Governor of Valdivia, to any person who may be at the
head of the people or congress of the Spaniards supposed to be
living at Lonco:--assured that some of my dear countrymen are
residing in the fear of God among the infidels of the country, I
send you health in our Lord Jesus Christ, who is the true health."
FOOTNOTE:
[3] Where the number of Indians has been given it is to be understood as
referring to such as are capable of managing a horse and lance and going
to war. Of these the province of Valdivia contains about 2150, and the
total indian population is estimated at 10500 souls.