girls and the sailors. The price of a lady’s favour was a nail or two;
but as the tars could not always get at the nails, they drew them out
from several parts of the ship; nor could a single offender be
discovered by the strictest enquiry. The damage done to the ship could
be easily repaired; but one ill consequence arose from this traffick,
which could not have been foreseen: for on the gunner’s offering small
nails for hogs, the Indians produced large spikes, demanding such as
those. Some of the men made use of a singular device to gratify their
passions; for, when they could procure no more nails, they cut lead into
the shape of nails, and passed it as sterling on their unsuspecting fair
ones. When the Indians discovered the fraud, they demanded nails for the
lead; but this just demand could not be granted, because it would have
promoted the stealing of lead, and thereby injured the traffic with
iron.
The sailors, in consequence of their connection with the women, became
so impatient of controul, that the Captain ordered the articles of war
to be read, to awe them into obedience; and a Corporal of marines was
severely punished, for striking the master at arms. The Captain’s health
being now nearly restored, he went in his boat to survey the island,
which he found extremely delightful, and every where well peopled.
On the 8th the wood-cutters were entertained in a friendly manner by
some Indians, who seemed to be of a rank above those they had yet seen:
and some of these visiting the Captain, he laid before them a thirty-six
shilling piece, a guinea, a crown-piece, a dollar, some shillings, new
halfpence, and two large nails; and having intimated that they might
take their choice, they eagerly seized the nails, and then took a few
halfpence; but left all the other pieces untouched.
The Indians now refused to supply the market, unless they could get
large nails in exchange: the Captain therefore ordered the ship to be
searched, when it was found that almost all the hammock-nails were
stolen, and great numbers drawn from different places: on which every
man was ordered before the Captain, who told them, that not a man should
go on shore till the thieves were discovered; but no good consequence
arose from his threats.
Three days after this, the gunner conducted to the ship a lady of a
portly figure and agreeable face, whose age seemed to be upwards of
forty. This lady had but lately arrived in that part of the island; and
the gunner, observing that she seemed to have great authority, presented
her with some toys; on which she invited him to her house, and gave him
some fine hogs. She was afterwards taken on board at her own desire,
where her whole behaviour indicated the woman of fine sense and superior
rank. The Captain presented her with a looking-glass and some toys, and
gave her a handsome blue mantle, which he tied round her with ribbands.
Having intimated that she should be glad to see the Captain on shore, he
signified his intention of visiting her on the following day.
Accordingly on Sunday the 12th, Captain Wallis went on shore, where he
was met by his fair friend, who was attended by a numerous retinue, some
of whom she directed to carry the Captain, and others who had been ill,
over the river, and thence to her habitation: the procession was closed
by a guard of marines and seamen. As they advanced, great numbers of
Indians crowded to see them; but, on a slight motion of her hand, they
made ample room for the procession to pass.
Having come near her habitation, many persons of both sexes advanced to
meet her, whom she caused to kiss the Captain’s hand, while she
signified that they were related to her. Her house was above 320 feet in
length, and about 40 in breadth. The roof, which was covered with the
leaves of the palm-tree, was supported by a row of pillars on each side,
and another in the middle. The highest part of the thatch on the inside
was about 30 feet from the ground, and the space between the sides of
the building and the edge of the roof being 12 feet, was left entirely
open.
The Captain, Lieutenant, and Purser, being seated, the lady helped four
of her female attendants to pull off their coats, shoes, and stockings;
which being aukwardly performed, the girls smoothed down the skin, and
rubbed it lightly with their hands for more than half an hour; and the
gentlemen received great benefit from the operation. The Surgeon, being
heated with walking, having pulled off his wig, one of the Indians
screamed out; the eyes of the whole company were instantly fixed on the
miraculous sight, and they remained some time in the most profound
astonishment. When they had recovered from their surprize, the lady
ordered several bales of cloth, the produce of the island, to be brought
out, in which she dressed the Captain and all his attendants. Orders had
been given, that the Captain should be carried as before; but as he
chose to walk, she took hold of his arm, and when they came near any wet
or dirty places, she lifted him over, with as much ease as a man would a
child. She attended them to the shore, when she took her leave; having
presented the Captain with a fine sow, big with young.
On the following day the gunner being dispatched to this lady, with a
compliment of bill-hooks, hatchets, &c. found her entertaining many
hundreds of the natives, who were seated in order round her habitation.
A mess was ordered for the gunner, who reported, that it was of an
agreeable flavour, and seemed to be a compound of fowls and apples,
shred in small pieces, and mixed with salt-water. The lady herself
distributed the provisions, which were served in cocoa-nut shells, and
those shells brought in trays by her servants. When the company were all
fed, the lady took her seat somewhat above the rest, and was fed by two
female servants, one standing on each side of her. She received the
Captain’s presents with evident signs of satisfaction.
From this period the crew was much better supplied with refreshments,
hogs and fowls being brought to the market daily; but they could not be
purchased at the former prices, owing to the commerce before-mentioned,
between the sailors and the Indian women: the Captain therefore ordered,
that not one woman should be permitted to come over the river, and that
no man should leave the ship till he had first been searched.
The gunner, who was on shore on the 14th, met with the following
affecting incident. He saw an old woman, on the opposite side of the
river, weeping in a most lamentable manner. When she found he regarded
her distress, she sent a youth to him, who, having made a long oration,
laid a branch of plantain at his feet, and then retired, and brought
over the woman and two hogs. The youth now made a still longer speech,
after the conclusion of which this unfortunate woman made the gunner
understand, that when the English fired on her countrymen, her husband
and three of her sons had been killed. Her agitation of mind was such,
that before she had finished her tale, she sunk speechless to the
ground; nor were two lads, who attended her, in a much better situation.
The gunner pitied her distress, and endeavoured to comfort her. At
length she became somewhat calmer, offered him her hand, and directed
the hogs to be given him: in return he would have given her much more
than their value, but she would not take the most trifling article.
On the 15th a large party, in all the boats, rowed round part of the
island, in order to take a view of it, and purchase provisions. They
returned with a number of hogs and fowls, and some plantains and
cocoa-nuts. The island was found to be every where very pleasant, and to
abound with various necessaries of life. Great numbers of canoes were
seen, and several not quite built. The tools of the natives were formed
of bones, shells, and stones. Dogs and hogs were the only four-footed
beasts. The inhabitants ate all their meat either roasted or baked,
having no vessel in which water could be boiled; nor, indeed, did they
seem to have the least idea that water could be heated by fire; this
will be proved by the following circumstance. While the lady so
frequently mentioned was at breakfast on board the ship, a person that
attended her, having observed the cock of an urn turned to fill the
tea-pot, he also turned the cock, and the scalding water falling on his
hand, he cried out, and danced about the cabin, while the other Indians
gazed at him with terror and surprize.
On the 17th Captain Wallis received another visit from the lady; (whom
he calls his Queen) and this day plenty of refreshments were purchased
of some Indians, whom they had never dealt with before. The Queen
repeated her visit on the following day, and gave the Captain two hogs:
and the Master being sent to attend her home, she clothed him in the
dress of the country, as she had done the Captain and his retinue. On
the 19th a great number of hogs and pigs, with fowls and fruits in the
greatest abundance, were purchased and sent on board by the gunner. The
next day one of the sailors was sentenced to run the gauntlet three
times round the deck, while the crew whipped him with nettles, for
drawing nails from the ship; but the tars were so well disposed to spare
a brother in iniquity, that his punishment was rather nominal than real:
this gave rise to an order, that no person should go on shore but those
appointed to procure wood and water.
Captain Wallis’s Queen paid him another visit on the 21st, and presented
him with some hogs. On her departure she invited the Captain to her
house, who, taking some officers with him, attended her home. On their
arrival, she tied round their hats some wreaths of plaited hair, and
distinguished the Captain’s by the additional ornament of a tuft of
feathers of different colours. When they returned she went with them to
the water-side, and ordered some presents into the boat. Just before
they put off Mr. Wallis intimated, that he should finally depart in
seven days; when she made signs that he should stay twenty: but his
resolution to depart within the first-mentioned time being repeated, she
wept incessantly for a considerable time.
By the 22d the ship was so well stored with hogs and fowls that the deck
was covered; but, as they would eat little else than fruit, they were
killed faster than was otherwise intended. A boar and sow of this breed
were brought to England, and given to Mr. Stephens, secretary of the
admiralty; the former of which was living when this account was printed,
but the latter died in farrowing.
On the 24th the Captain presented his friend, the old Indian, with cloth
and other matters; and sent a variety of things to the Queen, among
which were a cat with kitten, turkies, geese, hens, and various kinds of
garden seeds; which compliment she returned by a present of fruit and
hogs. While they remained here they sowed peas and garden seeds, and
staid long enough to see them come up, and likely to thrive.
The Captain having sent a party on shore on the 25th to examine the
country minutely, caused a tent to be erected to observe an eclipse of
the sun, and when it was ended, he took his telescope to the Queen’s
house to shew her the use of it; and her surprize is not to be
expressed, on her beholding several objects which she was very familiar
with, but which were too distant to be seen by the naked eye. On the
conclusion of this mental feast, the Captain invited the Queen and her
attendants on board the ship, judging that no insult would be offered to
the party he had sent out, while the principle people were in his power.
The Queen’s attendants ate heartily of an elegant dinner, and drank
water only; but the Queen would neither eat nor drink. When the party
returned from their excursion, the Captain gave orders for landing the
Queen and her train. She made signs to be informed, if he held his
resolution as to the time of his departure; and being answered in the
affirmative, her tears witnessed the agitation of her mind.
The following is an account of the transactions and observations of the
party which was sent out this day.--When they first landed they called
on the old Indian, and taking him with them, they walked some on each
side of the river about two miles, observing that the soil was blackish
and rich, and that on the borders of the valley, through which the river
flowed, were many houses with gardens walled in, and plenty of fruit,
hogs, and fowls. They now all walked on one side, as the ground rose
nearly perpendicular on the other. Channels were cut in many places, to
conduct the water from the hills to the gardens and plantations, and the
ground being fenced off had a pleasing effect to the eye. There was good
grass, but no underwood beneath the trees: the cocoa-nut and plantain
grew on level ground; while the bread-fruit and apple-trees were set in
rows on the sides of the hills.
The stream now became a perfect meander, and the crags of mountains
which rose on its borders hung over the heads of our travellers. After
walking four miles, they sat down to breakfast under an apple-tree, when
they were alarmed by the shouts of a great number of the natives. They
would have had recourse to their arms, but the old Indian making signs
for them to sit still, went to his countrymen, who became at once
silent, and instantly retired: but they soon returned with variety of
refreshments, which the old Indian divided among our travellers; and for
which the Lieutenant gave the natives some buttons, and other trifles.
They then proceeded, and looked diligently for metals and ores, in every
place likely to produce them; but found nothing of any consequence. The
old Indian growing weary, hinted, that he should return, having first
directed his countrymen to clear a passage for the travellers over a
mountain. When the old man was gone, the Indians cut branches from the
trees, and laid them in a ceremonious manner at the feet of the seamen:
they then painted themselves red with the berries of a tree, and stained
their garments yellow with the bark of another. By the assistance of the
Indians, the most difficult parts of the mountain were climbed; and they
again refreshed themselves on its summit, when they saw other mountains
so much above them, that they seemed as in a valley.
Towards the sea the prospect was inexpressibly beautiful, the sides of
the hills being covered with trees, and the vallies with grass; while
the whole country was interspersed with villages. They saw but few
houses on the mountains above them, but as smoke was observed in many
places, it was conjectured, that the highest parts were inhabited. Many
springs gushed from the sides of the mountains, all of which were
covered with wood on the sides, and with fern on the summits. The soil
even on the high lands was rich, and the sugar-cane grew without
cultivation; as did likewise ginger and turmerick.
[Illustration: _The Queen of Otaheite taking leave of Cap^n. Wallis._]
Having a third time refreshed themselves, they descended towards the
ship, occasionally deviating from the direct way, tempted, by the
pleasant situation of several houses, the inhabitants of which
entertained them in the most hospitable manner. They saw parrots,
parroquets, green doves, and ducks. The Lieutenant planted the stones of
cherries, peaches and plums, several kinds of garden-seeds, and oranges,
lemons and limes. In the afternoon they rested on a delightful spot,
where the inhabitants dressed them two hogs and several fowls. Here they
staid till the evening, when they rewarded the diligence of their
guides, and repaired to the ship.
On the 26th the Queen visited the Captain, with her usual presents; and
on this day they discontinued taking in wood and water, and prepared for
sailing. A greater number of Indians now came to the sea-shore than they
had ever yet seen; and of these, several appeared to be persons of
consequence. In the afternoon the Queen visited captain Wallis, and
sollicited him to remain ten days longer; but being informed that he
should certainly sail on the following day, she burst into tears. She
now demanded when he would come again, and was told in 50 days. She
remained on board till evening, when being informed that the boat waited
for her, she wept with more violence than she had yet done. At length
this affectionate creature went over the ship’s side, as did the old
Indian who had been so serviceable to the crew. This man had signified,
that his son should sail with the Captain; but when the time of
departure came, the youth was not to be found; and it was thought, that
parental affection had got the better of the old man’s promise.
Early the next morning two boats were sent to fill a few casks of water;
but the officer, alarmed at finding the shore crouded with people, was
about to return. This brought the Queen forward, who commanded the
Indians to retire to the opposite side of the river, and then made signs
for the boats to land. While the water was filling, she ordered some
presents into the boat, and entreated to go once more to the ship; but
the officer having it in charge not to bring off a single native, she
ordered her double canoe out, and was followed by many others. When she
had been on board, weeping bitterly, for an hour, advantage was taken of
a breeze, and the ship got under sail. She now tenderly embraced the
Captain and Officers, and left the ship; but the wind falling, the
canoes all put back, and once more reached the ship, to which the
Queen’s being made fast, she advanced to the bow of the canoe, and wept
incessantly. The Captain presented her with several articles of use and
ornament, which she received in silent sorrow. After some time a breeze
springing up, the Queen and her attendants took their final leave, with
many tears, which drew corresponding tears from the eyes of our
countrymen.
The place where the ship had lain was called PORT ROYAL HARBOUR, and is
situated in 17 degrees 30 minutes south-longitude, and 150 degrees
west-latitude.
Captain Wallis now proceeds to give a more accurate account of the
inhabitants of Otaheite, with their customs, manners, &c.--The men are
from five feet seven to ten inches high, well proportioned, alert, and
of good countenances. The women from five feet to five and a half,
handsome in general, but some of them as beautiful as can be imagined.
The complexion of those men who are much on the water is rather red; but
the natural colour of them all is the tawny. They are remarkably
distinguished from all the other natives of Asia, Africa, and America,
by the colours of their hair; for that of the former is universally
black, while the people of Otaheite have the various colours of black,
brown, red and flaxen; most of the children having the latter: when left
loose, it has a strong natural curl, but it is usually worn tied in two
bunches, one on each side the head, or in a single bunch in the middle.
They anoint the head with the oil of the cocoa-nut, mixed with a root of
a fragrant smell.
It has been mentioned, that the ladies do not consider chastity as a
virtue; but the price of their favours is always proportioned to their
charms. When a man offered a girl to the caresses of a sailor, he shewed
a stick of the size of the nail that was to purchase her company.
Their cloaths are formed of two pieces of cloth, not unlike coarse China
paper, in one of which a hole is made for the head to pass thro’, and
this hangs to the middle of the leg; the other piece is wrapped round
the body, and the whole forms an elegant drapery. This cloth is composed
of the inner bark of a tree. They adorn themselves with pearls, shells,
feathers and flowers. They mark the hinder part of the thighs and loins
of both sexes with black lines in different forms; which is done by
striking the teeth of an instrument through the skin, and rubbing soot
mixed with oil into the holes: some few men, who appeared to be persons
of distinction, had their legs marked; but neither boys nor girls are
marked till after they are twelve years old.
An Indian who attended the Queen appearing to be fond of imitating the
English, was presented with a suit of the Lieutenant’s cloaths, which
became him extremely well. As it was shoal-water at the landing-place,
the English officers were carried on shore; and this man, unwilling to
be out of the fashion, was carried in the same manner by the Indians. In
his attempt to use a knife and fork at first, his hand always went to
his mouth, while the food remained stuck on the end of the fork.
Besides the articles already mentioned, these people eat the flesh of
dogs. Rats abound on the island, but are not eaten. The river produces
parrot-fish, groopers, cray-fish and mullet, and conchs and muscles are
found on the rocks: the inhabitants use nets, and hooks and lines.
There is something singular in their way of dressing their food: having
produced a fire by rubbing two pieces of dry wood together, they dig a
pit, which being paved with stones, they make a fire in it. The stones
being properly heated, they rake away the ashes, and covering the stones
with green leaves of the cocoa-nut-tree, they put their meat in plantain
leaves, and place it in the pit, covering it over with the hot ashes, on
which they lay bread-fruit and yams enclosed in plantain leaves: these
again they cover with the embers intermixed with the hot stones: to this
succeeds a layer of cocoa-nut leaves, and upon the whole is a covering
of earth. In this manner a small hog is dressed whole, but a large one
is cut in two; and Captain Wallis asserts, that this method of cookery
exceeds every other he has known, the meat being extremely tender, and
full of gravy. Their only sauces are salt-water and fruit, and their
knives are made of shells.
They were astonished when they first saw meat boiled in a pot; but the
Captain having given iron-pots to the Queen and some of her chiefs, they
were often used; and the old Indian fed on boiled meat almost
constantly. The only liquor they drink is water: they occasionally pluck
and chew a bit of the sugar-cane; but have no idea of extracting any
spirit from it.
From the scars with which many of these people were marked, it seems
evident, that they sometimes waged war with each other.--That they have
skill in surgery is evident from the following circumstance: a splinter
having got into the foot of one of the sailors, his mess-mate tried in
vain to extract it with a pen-knife: on this one of the natives, having
formed an instrument, with his teeth, out of a shell, extracted the
splinter in an instant; and the old Indian applying a piece of the gum
of the apple-tree to the wound, the man’s foot was quite well in two
days.
There are several sheds on the island, enclosed within a wall, on the
outside of which several posts are fixed in the ground, on which are
rude resemblances of men, women, dogs and hogs. The enclosed place is
paved with large stones, between which the grass grows. These were
supposed to be burial-places, from the natives being sometimes seen to
enter them with an air of solemn sorrow.--It could not be discovered
that these people had any kind of religious worship among them.
They have three kinds of canoes--one formed out of a single tree, in
which they go a fishing; a second, made of planks sewed together, and
large enough to hold 20 or 30 men; in which they sail round the island,
and come laden home with fruits; and a third sort, which are not unlike
the Venetian gondolas, and used when they sail on parties of pleasure.
In these they make a kind of procession two or three times in a week,
with their streamers flying, attended by the small canoes, while
hundreds of the natives accompany their motions on the shore. On these
occasions they put on their best cloaths, and while some are under a
large awning, others sit upon it:--these are clothed in red and white;
two men in red sit on the prow of each vessel; while the rowers and
steersmen are in white.
The people of Otaheite use bows and arrows, which last are headed with a
round stone. They have likewise bludgeons, and slings for the throwing
of stones.
The inhabitants being shewn some small turtles, hinted that they had
some which were much larger; but not one was seen by any of the ship’s
crew.
Captain Wallis represents this island as one of the most pleasant in the
universe; being blessed with a pure air, abounding in wood and herbage,
harbouring no venomous animal; and its inhabitants being happy in a
constant flow of health. The south-east part of the island, which
produces fruit in vast abundance, is better peopled than the spot near
where the ship lay.
When captain Cook, in the Endeavour, visited this island, he found the
venereal disease among the natives; which must have been contracted from
some of the crew under the command of M. Bougainville; for not one of
captain Wallis’s men were infected with that disorder for several months
before and after his arrival at Otaheite.