if they could do it without offence to the natives. As they approached
the shore, they observed seven large canoes, each with two masts, laying
ready for the Indians to embark in them: these having made signs to the
crew to proceed farther, and this being done, the Indians embarked, and
sailed westward, being joined by two canoes at another part of the
island. These canoes, two of which were lashed together, appeared to be
30 feet in length, four in breadth, and three in depth. The people had
long black hair hanging over their shoulders, were of a dark complexion,
and of the middle size. They were dressed in a kind of matting made fast
round the middle; and it was remarked, that the women were beautiful,
and the men justly proportioned.
The Lieutenant being again sent on shore the Captain commanded him to
take possession of the island in the king’s name, and to call it QUEEN
CHARLOTTE’S ISLAND. The boats returned loaded with cocoa-nuts and
scurvy-grass, after having found two wells of excellent water.
Provisions for a week were now allotted for a mate and twenty men, who
were left on shore to fill water; the sick were landed for the benefit
of the air; and a number of hands were appointed to climb the
cocoa-trees, and gather the nuts.
On the 10th the water was brought on board the ship, but the cocoa-nuts,
and vegetables which the cutter was bringing off, were lost by the
rolling of the waves, which almost filled her with water. On this island
were found several tools, resembling adzes, awls and chissels, which
were formed of shells and stones. The dead bodies were not buried, but
left to decay above ground, under a kind of canopy.
The ship sailed this day, after taking possession of the islands for the
king; in testimony of which they left a flag flying, and carved his
majesty’s name on a piece of wood, and on the bark of several trees. For
the use of the natives they left shillings, sixpences, halfpence,
bottles, nails, hatchets, and other things. It should be remarked that,
on this island, they found the very people who had fled from Queen
Charlotte’s Island, with several others, in the whole near one hundred.
It lies in 19 degrees 20 minutes south latitude, and 138 degrees 30
minutes west longitude; and received the name of EGMONT ISLAND.
On the 11th they observed about sixteen persons on an island which was
called GLOUCESTER ISLAND; but, as it was surrounded with rocks and
breakers, they did not attempt to land. This day they likewise
discovered another, which was called CUMBERLAND ISLAND; and, on the day
following, a third, which received the name of PRINCE WILLIAM HENRY’S
ISLAND.
On the 17th they again discovered land, and at ten at night saw a light,
which convinced them that it was inhabited; and remarked, that there was
plenty of cocoa-trees, a certain indication that there was no want of
water.
The day following an officer was sent to the shore, with instructions to
exchange some toys for such things as the island produced. He saw a
great number of the people, but could find no place in which the ship
might anchor. Some of the Indians, who had white sticks in their hands,
appeared to have an authority over the rest. While the Lieutenant was
trafficking with them, an Indian diving into the water seized the
grappling of the boat, while his companions on the shore laid hold of
the rope by which she was fastened, and attempted to draw her into the
surf: but their endeavours were frustrated by the firing of a musket, on
which all parties let go their hold. These Indians were dressed in a
kind of cloth, a piece of which was brought to the ship.
From the number of the people seen, and their having some large double
canoes on the shore, it was thought that there were larger islands at no
great distance: the Captain, therefore, having named this place
OSNABURGH ISLAND, made sail, and having soon discovered high land, came
to an anchor, because the weather was very foggy.
Early the next morning they saw land, distant 4 or 5 leagues; but after
having sailed towards it some time, thought it prudent again to anchor,
on account of the thickness of the fog: but it no sooner cleared away,
than they found the ship encompassed by hundreds of canoes, in which
were many hundreds of people. Having approached the ship, they beheld it
with wonder, and talked with great earnestness. Some baubles were now
shewn them, and signs were made for them to come on board, on which they
rowed the canoes towards each other, and a general consultation took
place; at the conclusion of which they all surrounded the ship with an
appearance of friendship, and one of them delivered an oration, at the
conclusion of which he threw into the sea the branch of a plantain-tree
which he had held in his hand. This being done, a young Indian, of more
apparent courage than the rest, ventured on board the ship. The Captain
would have given him some baubles, but he refused the acceptance of them
till those in the canoes came a-longside, and, having held a
consultation, threw on board several branches of the plantain-tree.
Others now ventured on board; but it was remarked, that they all got
into the ship at some improper part, not one of them, even by accident,
finding the right place of ascent.
A goat belonging to the ship having ran his horns against the back of
one of the Indians, he looked round with surprize, and seeing the animal
ready to renew the attack, he sprang over the ship’s side, and was
instantly followed by all his countrymen. Their terror, however, soon
subsided, and they returned to the ship; and the sheep, hogs and poultry
being shewn them, they intimated that they possessed the two latter
species. The Captain now gave them nails and other trifles, and made
signs that he wanted hogs, fowls and fruit; but they could not
comprehend him. They were detected in several attempts to take away any
thing they could lay hold of; but one of them, at length, jumped
overboard with a laced hat snatched from one of the officers.
The inner parts of the island abound in hills cloathed with timber
trees, above them are high peaks, from which large rivers descend to the
sea. The houses, when seen at a distance, resemble a barn, having no
shelter but a roof: the land towards the sea is level, and produces the
cocoa-nut, with variety of other fruits; and the face of the whole
country is picturesque beyond description.
They now sailed along the shore, while the canoes, which could not keep
pace with them, made towards the land. In the afternoon the ship brought
to, and the boats being sent to sound a bay that promised good
anchorage, the Indian canoes flocked round them. The Captain,
apprehensive that their designs were hostile, made a signal for the
boats to return to the ship, and fired a gun over the heads of the
Indians. Though they were frightened at the report, they attempted to
prevent the return of the cutter, but she easily out-sailed them. This
being observed by some canoes in a different station, they intercepted
her, and wounded some of her people with stones, which occasioned the
firing a musket, and some shot were lodged in the shoulder of the man
who began the attack; which the Indians observing, they all made off
with the utmost precipitation.
The boats having reached the ship, preparations were made for sailing;
but a large canoe being observed to make towards her at a great rate, it
was resolved to wait the event of her arrival; on which an Indian,
making a speech, threw a plantain-branch on board, and the Captain
returned the compliment of peace, by giving them a branch, which had
been left on board by the other Indians: some toys being likewise given
them, they departed with much seeming satisfaction.
They now sailed; and the next morning were off a peak of land which was
almost covered with the natives and their houses. On the 21st the ship
came to an anchor, and several canoes came a-longside of her, bringing a
large quantity of fruit, with fowls and hogs, for which they received
nails and toys in exchange. The boats having been sent to sound along
the coast, were followed by large double canoes, three of which ran at
the cutter, staved in her quarter, and otherwise damaged her; the
Indians, at the same time, armed with clubs, endeavouring to board her.
The crew now fired, and wounding one man dangerously, and killing
another, they both fell into the sea, whither their companions dived
after them, and got them into the canoe. They now tried if they could
stand or sit; but as the one was quite dead, they laid him at the bottom
of the canoe; and the wounded man was supported in a sitting posture.
The ships boats now kept on their way, while some of the canoes went
ashore, and others returned to the ship to renew their merchandize.
While the boats continued out in search of soundings, the natives swam
off to them with water and fruit. The women were particularly urgent for
the sailors to land, and, pulling off all their cloaths, gave hints, of
the most indelicate nature, how acceptable their company would be.
The boats being sent on shore with some small casks to get water, the
Indians filled two of them, and kept all the rest for their trouble.
When the boats came off, the shore was crouded with thousands of men,
women, and children. During this time several canoes remained a-longside
the ship; but the Captain would not permit a single Indian to go on
board, as there was no guarding against their artful disposition.
On the 22d the natives brought hogs, poultry, and fruit to the ship,
which they bartered for knives and other things; so that the whole crew
was supplied with meat for two days, by means of this traffick. The
boats having been this day sent for water, every inducement was used by
the inhabitants to persuade them to land: and the behaviour of the women
was still more lascivious than before. Having procured a small quantity
of water, the boats put off; on which the women shouted aloud, pelted
them with apples and bananas, and shewed every mark of contempt and
detestation.
The ship made sail the day following, with intention to anchor off the
watering-place; but the man at the mast-head discovering a bay a few
miles to the leeward, they immediately stood for it. The boats, which
were a-head, making a signal for anchorage, they prepared to bring to;
but when the ship had almost reached the boats, she suddenly struck, and
her head remained immoveably fixed on a coral rock; in which situation
she remained near an hour, when she was happily relieved by a breeze
from the shore. During the whole time that she was in danger of being
wrecked, she was encompassed by hundreds of Indians in their canoes; but
not one of them attempted to board her. The ship was now piloted round a
reef, into an harbour, where she moored.
The Master was then sent to sound the bay, and found safe anchorage in
every part of it. In the mean time some small canoes brought provisions
on board; but as the shore was crouded with large canoes, filled with
men, the Captain loaded and primed his guns, supplied his boats with
musquetoons, and kept a number of the men constantly under arms.
On the 24th the ship sailed up the harbour, and was followed by many
canoes, bringing provisions, which were exchanged for nails, knives, &c.
In the evening a number of very large canoes advanced, laden with
stones; on which the Captain ordered the strictest watch to be kept. At
length some canoes came off, with a number of women on board, who, being
brought almost under the ship, began to practise those arts of
indelicacy already mentioned. During this singular exhibition the large
canoes came close round the ship; some of the Indians playing on a kind
of flute, others singing, and the rest blowing a sort of shells. Soon
after a large canoe advanced, in which was an awning, on the top of
which sat one of the natives, holding some yellow and red feathers in
his hand. The Captain having consented to his coming a-longside, he
delivered the feathers; and while a present was preparing for him, he
put back from the ship, and threw the branch of a cocoa-tree in the air.
This was, doubtless, the signal for an onset; for there was an instant
shout from all the canoes, which, approaching the ship, threw vollies of
stones into every part of her. On this two guns, loaded with small shot,
were fired, and the people on guard discharged their muskets. The number
of Indians now round the ship were full two thousand; and though they
were at first disconcerted, they soon recovered their spirits, and
renewed the attack. Thousands of the Indians were now observed on shore,
embarking as fast as the canoes could bring them off: orders were
therefore given for firing the cannon, some of which were brought to
bear upon the shore. This firing put a stop to all hostilities, on the
part of the Indians, for a small time: but the scattered canoes soon got
together again, and, having hoisted white streamers, advanced, and threw
stones of two pounds weight from slings; by which a number of the seamen
were wounded. At this time several canoes approached the bow of the
ship, from whence no shot had been yet discharged. In one of these was
an Indian, who appeared to have an authority over the rest: a gun was
therefore levelled at his canoe, the shot of which split it in two
pieces. This put an end to the contest; the canoes rowed off with the
utmost speed, and the people on shore ran and concealed themselves
behind the hills.
The Captain now sailed for his intended anchoring-place, and moored the
ship within a small distance of a fine river. The next morning some
persons, who had been sent to survey the shore, returned with an account
that the river produced fresh water, and that there was not a single
canoe to be seen.
This day a Lieutenant was dispatched, with all the boats manned and
armed, and a number of marines, with orders to land under cover of the
ship and boats; which being effected, he turned a piece of turf, and
having hoisted a pendant on a staff, he took possession of the place,
for his Sovereign, by the name of KING GEORGE THE THIRD’S ISLAND. He
then mixed some rum with the river water, and every person present drank
the King’s health. At this time the Lieutenant observed two old men on
the opposite side of the river, who seemed much terrified, and assumed a
posture of supplication. Signs were made for them to cross the river,
which one of them having done, he crawled on his hands and knees towards
the Lieutenant; who, shewing him some stones that had been thrown at the
ship, hinted that the Indians should receive no harm if they were not
the aggressors. Some hatchets were now produced, to intimate that they
wished to barter for provisions; and some trifling matters were given to
the Indian, who testified his joy and gratitude by dancing round the
pendant. He then plucked some branches of trees, which he laid on the
ground, and retreated; but soon returning with several others, they
advanced towards the pendant, which happening to be shaken by the wind,
they ran back with evident signs of astonishment. They soon recovered
from their surprize, and procuring two hogs, laid them down at the foot
of the flag-staff, and danced round it; after which they put the hogs
into a canoe, and the old Indian rowed it to the ship: when he came
a-longside he delivered a serious oration, in the course of which he
handed up a number of plantain-leaves, one at a time: this being done,
he rowed back, after refusing several presents that had been offered
him.
In the night a number of lights were seen on the coast, and the noise of
drums and other instruments of music was heard. Soon after daylight it
was observed that the Indians had left the coast, and taken away the
pendant. This day, while a party was engaged in filling the water-casks,
the old man, who had been seen the day before, crossed the river, and
brought with him some fowls and fruit. The Captain, who was indisposed
on board the ship, employed himself in remarking what was going forward
on shore; and, by the help of glasses, he saw many of the Indians
creeping behind the bushes towards the watering-place, while incredible
numbers were coming through the woods, and a large party descending a
hill, all advancing to the same spot; and two divisions of canoes were
making round the opposite points of the bay. The Lieutenant, seeing his
danger, got his party on board the boats; but not before he had sent the
old Indian to prevail on the others to keep at a proper distance, as he
wanted only water:--but this had no effect; and, as soon as the crews
were in the boats, the natives possessed themselves of the casks as
lawful prize. Those at some distance from the watering-place pushed
forward with all speed, keeping pace with the canoes, which were rowed
at an extraordinary rate; while a great number of women and children
were seated on a hill, from whence they could command a view of all that
passed.
When the canoes came near that part of the bay where the ship rode, they
took in many people from the shore, who were laden with bags filled with
stones. All the canoes now approached the ship; on which the Captain
gave orders to fire on the first cluster of them that should assemble;
this had such an effect, that they all rowed off with the utmost speed.
They then fired into several parts of the wood, on which the Indians all
fled to the hill where the women and children were; so that several
thousands were now on that spot. The Captain being resolved to make this
action decisive, fired towards the hill; and two balls falling near a
spot where many of these poor Indians had stationed themselves, they
were all terrified beyond description, and disappeared in an instant.
When this disagreeable skirmish was ended, the boats were hoisted out,
and a strong guard sent with the carpenters, who had orders to destroy
every canoe they could find; and this service was performed with such
alacrity, that in a few hours a great number of these vessels were cut
in pieces, several of which were of the largest size. Some fruit, fowls,
and hogs, were found in a few of the smallest; but the rest were laden
with stones and slings.
It was not long before a small party of Indians advanced to the
sea-shore, and sticking up some small branches of trees, went back to
the woods: but they came again repeatedly, bringing with them a quantity
of the cloth they wear, and some dogs and hogs with their legs tied; all
which they laid on the shore, making signs to the sailors to take them.
A boat being sent on shore, the hogs were conveyed on board, but the
other articles left. In return for these presents, several hatchets and
nails were left on the beach, and signs made to some of the Indians
within sight to come and take them; which they neglected to do for some
time, till the Captain having sent for the cloth, the natives then
accepted his presents with apparent satisfaction.
On the 27th, while a party was getting water, the old man
before-mentioned appeared on the opposite side of the river; and having
harangued them some time, he came over; when the officer, pointing to
the bags and stones which had been brought down, tried to convince him
that his countrymen had injured the English, who had acted only on the
defensive. His meaning seemed to be well understood, but the old Indian
could not admit the force of his arguments:--on the contrary, he
expressed very forcibly, by his countenance, voice, and actions, the
high sense he had of the injury offered his unhappy friends. At length a
reconciliation took place; the old man shook hands with, and accepted
some presents from the Lieutenant, who tried to convince him of his
good-will; hinted that the natives should not appear but in small
parties, and that while the boats crews were on one side of the river
they should remain on the other. The old man departed with evident signs
of being content with these terms; and in a few hours the natives began
a traffic, which proved highly advantageous to the ship’s company.
The sick were now sent on shore, and lodged in a tent near the
watering-place, under the care of the Surgeon. This gentleman having
shot a wild-duck, it dropped near some Indians on the opposite side of
the river, who were so terrified that they instantly fled; but stopping
within a short space, he prevailed on one of them to bring over the
duck, which he at length complied with, and laid it at the Surgeon’s
feet, while his looks expressed the fear and agitation of his mind. At a
second shot three ducks were killed; which gave the natives such an idea
of the effects of a gun, that to this circumstance is chiefly attributed
the regularity of their behaviour in all their transactions, while the
English remained among them.
Orders were now issued, that the gunner should transact all matters of
trade between the Indians and the sailors, with a view to prevent
pilfering and quarrelling: the natives, indeed, would sometimes steal a
trifle, but the very sight of a gun procured instant restitution of it.
The old Indian, having been attached to the English, was very useful in
the recovery of the stolen goods. One day an Indian swam over the river,
and took a hatchet, on which the gunner made preparations as if he would
go in search of the thief; but this being intimated to the old man, he
immediately went after the lost goods, which he brought back. The gunner
now demanded that the culprit should also be produced, and the old
Indian complied, though much against his inclination. The prisoner, who
had committed other robberies, was sent on board the ship, whence the
Captain discharged him, without farther punishment than the terror
arising from his situation. His countrymen were transported with joy to
see him come back; and he was conducted into the woods, amidst the
applausive shouts of his friends. This man had the gratitude to bring a
roasted hog and some bread-fruit to the gunner next day, as an
acknowledgment for the lenity shewn him.
The Captain, First Lieutenant, and Purser, were at this time very ill;
so that the care of the vessel, and the superintendence of the sick,
were committed to the Second Lieutenant, who discharged his duty with
such zeal and fidelity, that all was order and decorum. Fruit, fowls,
and fresh pork, were procured in such plenty, that at the end of
fourteen days almost every man had perfectly recovered his health.
On the 29th a piece of saltpetre, of the size of a small egg, was found
on shore; but whether it had been brought from the ship, or not, could
not be learnt, after the most diligent enquiry; but no other piece was
found on the island.
On the 2d of July they began to want fruit and fresh meat, owing to the
absence of the old Indian; but they had still a sufficient supply for
the sick. On the 3d the ship’s bottom was examined, when its condition
was nearly the same as when she left England. This day a shark was
caught, which proved an acceptable present to the Indians.
The old Indian, who had visited the interior parts of the island, in
quest of provisions, returned on the 5th, and brought with him a roasted
hog as a present for the Captain, who, in return, enriched him by
putting him in possession of a looking-glass, an iron pot, &c. His
return was soon followed by some of the natives who had never yet
visited the market; these brought some hogs that were larger than any
yet purchased.