following, which laid low, and was covered with various kinds of trees,
among which was the cocoa-nut; the island was surrounded with a rock of
red coral. The inhabitants on the coast having made large fires, as
supposed to alarm the more inland natives, they ran along the shore in
multitudes, armed like those of the Islands of Disappointment. The
vessels now brought to, at a small inlet, opening into a lake of salt
water, which appeared more than two leagues wide. At this place was a
little town, under the shade of a grove of cocoa-nut-trees. The ships
advancing to the mouth of the inlet, some hundreds of the natives,
headed by a kind of officer, who carried a pole, on which was fastened a
piece of mat, ranged themselves up to the waists in water, making a
hideous noise, till they were joined by a number of large canoes which
came down the lake. At this time two boats were out in search of
soundings, and the crews of them making every possible sign of
friendship, some of the canoes drew towards them, not, indeed, as we
hoped, with a peaceable intention, but with a view to haul the boats on
shore: several of the natives, leaping from the rocks, swam to the
boats; and one of them sprang into the Tamar’s boat, snatched up a
seaman’s jacket, and instantly dived from the boat to the shore: another
of them laid violent hands on a hat, but lost his prize through his
ignorance, as he pulled it downwards, instead of lifting it from the
head.
They now sailed westward, and soon discovered another island, distant
four leagues. The natives pursued them in two large double canoes, in
each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the boats were
at a considerable way to leeward of the ships, and were chaced by the
canoes; on which the Commodore making a signal, the boats turned towards
the Indians, who instantly pulled down their sails, and rowed away with
great rapidity: they drove through the violent surf on the shore, and
were followed by the boats; when, apprehending the invasion of their
country, they armed themselves with stones and clubs; on which the
boat’s crew fired, and killed two or three of them, one of whom died as
he was throwing a stone at his enemy, after three balls had gone thro’
his body[1]. This poor fellow dropping close to the boats, his body was
brought to the ship; but the Indians carried off the rest of their
companions. The boats carried the two canoes with them, as the trophies
of their scandalous victory. These vessels consisted of planks sewed
together, with a strip of tortoiseshell fixed over each seam: they had
sharp bottoms, and were very narrow; and two of them were fastened
a-longside each other by two timbers, which left a space of full six
feet between the canoes: a sail, made of neat matting, passed from one
vessel to the other, being fixed to a mast which was hoisted in each of
them: when they sail, several men sit on the timbers which lay from boat
to boat: their cordage appeared to be formed of the outer covering of
the cocoa-nut, and was exquisitely well made.
[1] Horrid, wanton murder!--If discoveries are to be purchased at such
a price, the southern hemisphere had better have remained unknown.
As no refreshments could be obtained, owing to the violence of the surf,
the Commodore returned to his former station at the inlet, and again
sent the boats in search of an anchoring-place. A number of the Indians
were on the spot where he had left them, and were loading some large
canoes, most probably to attack the boats; on which a shot was fired
over their heads, and they instantly ran away and secreted themselves.
The boats returned in the evening, with a few cocoa-nuts; and in the
morning were sent out again, with all the invalids who were able to go
in them. The Commodore went on shore this day, and saw many Indian huts,
which were covered with the branches of the cocoa-nut-tree: they were
mean buildings, but finely situated among groves of lofty trees. The men
went naked; but some women were seen, who wore a kind of cloth from the
waist to the knee. The shore abounded with coral, and the shells of
large pearl oysters; and ’tis probable a valuable pearl-fishery might be
established here. There were many dogs in the huts, who kept barking
constantly till our adventurers went on board.
The next day the seamen found, in one of the huts, the carved head of a
rudder, which had evidently belonged to a Dutch long boat: they likewise
found a piece of brass, another of iron, and some iron tools; but by
whom these things were left is wholly unknown.
The burial-places of the natives were under high trees, near their
houses; and their tombs consisted of flat stones, laid on perpendicular
side stones, like those in the church-yards of England. On the branches
which shaded these repositories hung baskets of reeds, containing the
heads and bones of turtle and other fish, and near the graves were
several boxes filled with human bones.
The flies on this island were extremely troublesome, but no venomous
creature was seen. Parrots and other birds were very plentiful, and they
saw some beautiful doves, so tame as to follow them into the huts of the
Indians. The water of the island is good, and the surface of the ground
is almost covered with scurvy-grass. This part of the island is situated
in 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and 148 degrees 50 minutes west.
On Wednesday, June the 12th, they sailed to another island, and as they
coasted along it, the natives, armed as those of the other islands, kept
even with the ship for some leagues. They frequently plunged into the
sea, or fell on the sand, that the surf might break over them, to cool
and refresh themselves. The boats being near the shore, the crew made
signs that they were in want of water; on which the natives pointed
farther along the shore, where, when the boats arrived, they saw a
number of houses, and whither they were followed by the Indians, many
more of whom joined them at this place. The boats having got close in
shore, and the ships laying at a small distance, a venerable old man,
with a white beard, advanced from the houses to the beach, attended by a
young fellow. Having made a signal for the other Indians to retire, he
came forward to the edge of the water, pressing his beard to his breast
with one hand, and holding a branch of a tree in the other. He now made
a kind of musical oration, during which the people in the boat threw him
some trifling presents, which he would neither take up, nor permit his
attendant to touch till he had finished his harangue, when he walked
into the water, and throwing the branch to the boat’s crew, he retired,
and picked up their presents. Most of the natives having complied with a
sign made for them to lay down their arms, one of the Midshipmen swam
ashore; on which they flocked round him, admiring his cloaths; as his
waistcoat pleased them most he gave it to them, which he had no sooner
done, than one of them untied his cravat and ran away with it. He now
thought it time to retreat to the boat, whither several of the natives
swam after him; some bringing each a cocoa-nut, and others fresh water
in the nut-shell. The boat’s crew had taken with them some shells of the
pearl oyster, in order to learn of the natives how to procure some
pearls; but they could not possibly make them comprehend their meaning.
This island is situated in 14 degrees 41 minutes south latitude, and 149
degrees 15 minutes west longitude; and both the islands the Commodore
called KING GEORGE’S ISLANDS, in respect to his Sovereign. In a lake
belonging to the last island, two or three very large vessels were seen,
one of which had two masts, with proper cordage.
The boats having returned on board, they sailed westward the same day;
and the next afternoon decried another island, towards which they
immediately sailed, and found that it was well inhabited, and had a fine
appearance of verdure; but that a violent surf broke all along the
coast. It lies in 15 degrees south, and 151 degrees 53 minutes west, and
received the name of the PRINCE OF WALES’S ISLAND.
They now sailed northward. From the vast flocks of birds they had
repeatedly seen, which always winged their way to the south, on the
approach of evening; and from the islands being so well peopled, the
Commodore concluded that there was a chain of islands leading to a
continent, the discovery of which he would certainly have attempted, but
the crews of both ships were so unhealthy, as to render it impossible
for us to succeed.
On Monday, June the 17th, they concluded that land was near, from the
multitudes of birds which flocked about the ship; but they saw no land
till the 21st, when it was discovered at eight leagues distance, having
the appearance of three islands, with rocks between them. These islands
abounded with inhabitants, whose dwellings lined the coast; and the
beauty and fertility of the soil, seemed to excel that of any place they
had seen: but the rocks and breakers with which it was surrounded, were
an insuperable bar to any attempt at landing. On the night of the 21st
all hands were on deck, as it rained hard, and the wind blew violently.
Soon after nine o’clock the Tamar fired a gun, and the crew of the
Dolphin imagined they saw breakers to leeward; but it proved to be only
the undulating reflection of the setting moon on the waters.
On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the DUKE OF
YORK’S ISLAND. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the place
itself had a pleasing appearance. The boats landed with some difficulty,
and brought off a large quantity of cocoa-nuts, which were a great
relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls were found sitting on their
nests in high trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked down, and
there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This island has a
large lake in the midst of it, but has no inhabitants.
On the 29th they sailed northward, with a view to cross the equinoxial
line, and then sail for the Ladrone Islands. On the 2d of July they
discovered a low flat island, abounding with the cocoa-nut and other
trees, and affording a most agreeable prospect. A great number of the
natives were seen on the beach, many of whom, in above sixty canoes or
proas, sailed, and formed a circle round the ships; which having
surveyed for a considerable time, one of the Indians jumped out of his
boat, swam to the ship, ran up its side in a moment, sat down on the
deck, and began laughing most violently: he then ran about the ship,
pilfering whatever he could lay hands on, which was taken from him as
fast as stolen. This man having as many antic tricks as a monkey, was
dressed in a jacket and trowsers, and afforded exquisite diversion. He
devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, and having played the
buffoon some time, made prize of his new dress, by jumping over the side
of the ship, and swimming to his companions. Several others now swam to
the ship, and running up the side to the gun-room ports, committed some
petty theft, swimming off with their booty with surprising expedition.
These Indians are of a bright copper, with regular and chearful
features, and are tall and well made. Their hair, which is long and
black, is either tied in three knots, or in a large bunch behind. Their
ears were bored, and they certainly had worn heavy ornaments in them, as
some of them were drawn down almost to their shoulders: their ornaments
were shells strung together, and worn round the waist, wrist, and neck;
but they were otherwise naked. One of them, who seemed to be of some
rank, wore a string of human teeth round his waist. Some of them carried
a long spear, the sides of which, for the length of three feet, were
stuck with the teeth of the shark, which are as keen as a razor. Some
cocoa-nuts being shewn them, and signs made that more were wanted, they
endeavoured to steal those, instead of directing where more might be
found.
The officers named this place BYRON’S ISLAND, in honour of the
Commodore. It lies in 1 degree 18 minutes south latitude, and 173
degrees 46 minutes east longitude. They sailed from hence on the 3d of
July, on the 21st of which month the men again grew ill of the scurvy,
having eaten up all the cocoa-nuts, which are, perhaps, the best cure
for this disorder in the world. Several of the people were also troubled
with fluxes, owing to the extreme heat of the weather. On the 22d they
sailed for the island of Tinian, being nearly in the latitude of that
place; and six days afterwards they had sight of the islands Saypan,
Tinian, and Aiguigan, which lie between two and three leagues from each
other. At noon, on the 31st, they anchored at the south-west end of
Tinian, in the situation where the Centurion had anchored with Commodore
Anson. The water is so wonderfully clear at this place, that, though 144
feet deep, they could see the ground.
The Commodore went on shore, where he saw many huts, which had been left
the preceding year by the Spaniards and Indians. Having chosen a spot on
which to erect tents for the sick, Mr. Byron and his company, with
prodigious difficulty, worked their way through the woods, in search of
those elegant meadows and lawns, of which so enchanting a picture is
given in Anson’s Voyage: but, to their unspeakable mortification, they
found the lawns covered with reeds, in which their legs were entangled,
and cut as with whipcord; and these reeds were, in some places, higher
than their heads, and in none less than half that height. From head to
foot they were covered with flies, which got down their throats as often
as they opened their mouths. In this excursion they killed a bull, and
then retiring to the tents, which had been erected in their absence,
they sent a party to fetch home their prize.
The invalids having been brought on shore the preceding day, they, on
the 1st of August, began clearing the well, which Mr. Byron supposes to
be the same that the Centurion watered at; but he says the water was
brackish, and full of worms. While they lay here the wind once drove in
so violently from the west, that the ships were obliged to put to sea
for a week, to avoid being dashed against the rocks. The armourer’s
forge was brought on shore, to repair the iron-work of the ships; and
the Commodore had a tent erected, as he was very ill of the scurvy. The
crew recovered apace from the scurvy; but many of them were seized with
fevers, of whom two died, being the first they had lost since they left
England. The rains were violent, and almost perpetual; and the heat so
intense, that the thermometer on board the ship generally stood at 86,
only 9 degrees less than the heat of the blood at the human heart.
Innumerable insects tormented them; and they were perpetually infested
by musquitos in the night, and flies by day. The island swarms also with
black ants, centipieds, and scorpions.
Parties were sent out to kill cattle, which, after being absent three
days and nights, and killing a bullock, had seven or eight miles to drag
it through the woods and lawns, and when it arrived, it was commonly
fly-blown, and stunk intolerably: add to this, that the extreme toil of
this duty brought on fevers, which confined the men to their tents. They
killed poultry with ease; but the heat was so excessive, that it would
turn green, and swarm with maggots, in less than an hour after it was
killed. They killed wild hogs that weighed 200 pounds each, which
afforded them their chief supply of fresh meat. A negro belonging to the
Tamar contrived a method to ensnare these animals, so that they sent
many on board alive, and were thus always certain of having fresh meat
both in the ship and on shore.
A spot having been found where cattle were plentiful, a party was sent
to kill them, having a tent erected for their use, and boats were sent
daily to bring away what they killed: three of the crew of the Tamar
were lost in this service, by the violent breaking of the sea upon the
rocks. Bread was now baked every day for the use of the sick, and, upon
the whole, they were well supplied with provisions.
The island of Saypan is not only larger, but pleasanter than Tinian. It
is, in a great degree, covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and
guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, at stated periods,
carry on a pearl-fishery at this island, as there were evident signs of
people having been lately there, and large heaps of the oyster-shells
were seen.
The Commodore remained at Tinian till the 30th of September, by which
time the sick being tolerably well recovered, he weighed anchor, and
stood to the northward. This island produces plenty of cotton and
indigo, with cocoa-nuts, bread-fruit, guavas, paupaus, sour oranges, and
limes.
On the 18th of October several land-birds, apparently much fatigued,
flew near the ship; one of which, of the size of a goose, rested on the
booms: its legs and beak were black, but every other part white; and the
beak was of a most monstrous length and thickness. On the 30th they saw
a number of trees and bamboos floating near the vessel, which was then
in 23 fathom water. On the 5th of November they came to an anchor off
the Island of Timoan, on which Mr. Byron landed the day following. The
inhabitants, who are Malays, no sooner saw the boat making for the
shore, than many of them came to the beach, each having a dagger by his
side, a spear in one hand, and a long knife in the other. The boat’s
crew, however, made no hesitation to land, and bartered a few
handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and a dozen of fowls.
The Malays are of a copper complexion, well made, but of small stature.
They wore turbans on their heads, and pieces of cloth, fastened with a
silver clasp, round the waist; but one old man among them was habited
nearly in the Persian fashion. Their houses, which are raised on posts
eight feet from the ground, are composed of the bamboo, slit, and are
very neatly constructed. The island produces the cocoa-nut and
cabbage-trees in great abundance, and there are some rice grounds on it.
While the ships lay at anchor, some of the inhabitants brought a living
animal on board, which had legs like that of a deer, with a body like a
hare, which proved to be very fine eating. The crews catched large
quantities of fish in this harbour, from whence they sailed on the 7th
of the month.
Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, when a sloop being seen at
anchor in the harbour of an Island named Pulo Toupoa, Mr. Byron, having
anchored in the same harbour, and observed that the vessel hoisted Dutch
Colours, sent an officer on board her, who was received with great
politeness, tea being immediately made for him and his attendants; but
he could not make himself understood, the crew consisting entirely of
Malays. This vessel, which was made of slit bamboo, had a piece of
timber on each quarter, which served to steer her instead of a rudder.
The Commodore sailed the following day, and held his course till the
19th, when he spoke with an English Snow, bound from Bencoolen to
Malacca and Bengal, in the East India Company’s service. At this time
their biscuit was filled with worms and rotten, and their beef and pork
was stinking. The master of the Snow being apprized of this
circumference, sent Mr. Byron two gallons of arrack, a turtle, twelve
fowls, and a sheep; which is supposed to have been the half of his
stock, and for which he refused to accept the slightest return. They
dropped their anchors this day in the road of Sumatra; and on the 27th,
came to an anchor in that of Batavia.
Having anchored nearer the town on the following day, they fired eleven
guns, which were returned; and an English ship from Bombay fired 13 guns
in honour of the Commodore.
The Dutch Commodore sent his boat on board the Dolphin, under the
command of his cockswain, who made but a shabby appearance. He put
several questions to Mr. Byron respecting his voyage and destination,
and took a book from his pocket to write down his answers, which Mr.
Byron considering as an indignity, desired him instantly to leave the
ship; which he did not think proper to hesitate at doing.
Mr. Byron visited the Dutch Commodore at his country-house, was received
with great politeness, and told, that he might take a house in any part
of the city, or be lodged at the hotel. Any inhabitant of Batavia
permitting a stranger to sleep, though but for a single night, in his
house, incurs a penalty of 500 dollars; the hotel being the only
licensed lodging house, the Governor appoints the keeper of it, who at
this time was a Frenchman. This hotel is the most superb building in the
city, having more the air of a palace than an inn. All the streets of
Batavia are well disposed, and having canals running through them,
resemble the cities of Holland. The inhabitants are a motley herd of
Dutch, Portuguese, Chinese, Persians, Moors, Malays, Javanese, &c. and
their numbers are amazingly great. The Chinese live in a kind of
separate town without the city walls, and deal very largely, having
annually ten or twelve vessels laden from China. The roads, for several
miles round the city, are very wide, and have a canal, shaded with
trees, running by them, which is broad enough for the navigation of
large vessels. Adjoining to this canal are the country-houses and
gardens of the citizens.
The ships remained in this harbour till the 10th of December, when they
sailed, being saluted with eleven guns by the fort, and thirteen by the
Dutch Commodore. During their run from hence to Prince’s Island, in the
Streight of Sunda, they were so abundantly supplied with turtle, by
boats from the Java shore, that the common sailors subsisted wholly on
that fish. They staid at Prince’s Island till the 19th, when they sailed
for the Cape of Good Hope.
On the 10th of February they saw a great smoke arising from a sandy
beach, which they supposed to have been made by the Hottentots. On the
13th they came to an anchor, and the next morning the Governor sent his
coach and six for the Commodore, and received him with great politeness,
offering him the accommodations of the company’s house in the garden,
and the use of his coach. The Cape is a fine country, situated in a
healthy climate, and abounding with various kinds of refreshments. In a
paddock adjoining the Company’s garden, which is extremely elegant,
ostriches, zebras, and other curious birds and animals are constantly
kept. The Commodore frequently gave his men permission to go on shore,
and they as constantly returned--drunk with the Cape wine.
They sailed on the 7th of March, and on the 25th crossed the equinoctial
line. About this time an accident happening to the rudder of the Tamar,
and it being impossible to make a perfect repair of it at sea, the
Captain was ordered to bear away for Antigua; in consequence of which,
they parted company on the first of April; and the Dolphin, without
meeting with any other material occurrence, came to an anchor in the
Downs on the 9th of May, 1766, after having been rather above twenty-two
months in the circumnavigation of the globe.
CAPTAIN WALLIS’S
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD.
Samuel Wallis, Esq; having been appointed to the command of his
Majesty’s ship the Dolphin, which was destined for a Voyage round the
World, he sailed down the river on the 26th of July, and came to an
anchor in Plymouth Sound on the 16th of August; three days after which
he received sailing orders, and directions to take under his command the
Swallow sloop, and Prince Frederick store-ship. These vessels sailed on
the 22d, and on the 7th of September, in the evening, came to an anchor
in the road of Madeira. The next morning Captain Wallis saluted the
Governor with 13 guns, and the compliment was returned with an equal
number.
They sailed thence on the 12th, after having taken in beef, wine, and
onions, as sea-stores. On the 16th, as they were sailing off the Island
of Palma, at the rate of eight miles an hour, the wind suddenly died
away, so that the vessels lay quite still. On the 20th they catched
several bonettas, out of a great number which surrounded the ship; and
this day they saw some herons flying to the eastward. The Swallow, which
was a bad sailer, parted from the other vessels, in the night between
the 21st and 22d, but she joined company again on the 24th, within six
leagues of the Isle of May. This day the three vessels came to an anchor
in Port Praya, in the above-mentioned island; and the next morning they
obtained leave from the commanding officer at the fort, to get water and
other necessaries. This being the sickly season there, and the small-pox
being very fatal, the Captain detained every man on board who had not
had that distemper.