Transcriber’s Note: Italic text is enclosed in _underscores_.
Superscript characters are preceded by ^. Small capital text has been
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[Illustration: _CHART of the Track of the_ Dolphin, Tamar, Swallow &
Endeavour, _through the_ SOUTH SEAS, _& of the Track of_ M.
Bougainville, round the WORLD.]
AN
HISTORICAL ACCOUNT
OF ALL THE
VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD,
PERFORMED BY
ENGLISH NAVIGATORS;
INCLUDING THOSE LATELY UNDERTAKEN
By ORDER of his PRESENT MAJESTY.
THE WHOLE
Faithfully Extracted from the JOURNALS of the
VOYAGERS.
DRAKE, undertaken in 1577-80
CAVENDISH, 1586-88
COWLEY, 1683-86
DAMPIER, 1689-96
COOKE, 1708-11
ROGERS, 1708-11
CLIPPERTON and SHELVOCKE, 1719-22
ANSON, 1740-44
BYRON, 1764-66
WALLIS, 1766-68
CARTERET, 1766-69
COOK, 1768-71
TOGETHER WITH
That of SYDNEY PARKINSON, Draftsman to JOSEPH BANKS, Esq; who
circumnavigated the Globe with Capt. COOK, in his Majesty’s Ship the
ENDEAVOUR.
AND
The Voyage of Mons. BOUGAINVILLE round the World, Performed by Order of
the French King.
Illustrated with Maps, Charts, and Historical Prints.
IN FOUR VOLUMES.
To which is added,
An APPENDIX. Containing the JOURNAL of a VOYAGE to the NORTH POLE, by
the Hon. Commodore PHIPPS, and Captain LUTWIDGE.
─────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────
VOLUME THE THIRD.
═════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════════
LONDON:
Printed for F. NEWBERY, the Corner of St. Paul’s Church-Yard.
─────────────
M DCC LXXIII.
COMMODORE BYRON’S
VOYAGE
ROUND THE WORLD,
In 1764, 1765, and 1766.
His present Majesty having formed a design of prosecuting the discovery
of countries in the South Seas, was pleased, in the year 1764, to give
orders for the carrying this design into execution: in consequence of
which, the Dolphin ship of war and the Tamar frigate were fitted,
manned, and victualled for this expedition.
Mr. Byron was commander in chief, and Captain Mouat had the honour of
commanding the frigate under him. They sailed from the Downs on the 21st
of June, 1764, but the Dolphin running a-ground, she was put into
Plymouth Dock and examined: she had however sustained no injury, and on
the 3d of July the Commodore hoisted his broad pendant, and sailed in
prosecution of his voyage. On the 30th they anchored in the road of
Fonchiale, at the island of Madeira; the Governor of which saluted the
Captain with 11 guns, and the compliment was returned. They sailed on
the 19th, and on the 21st were in sight of Palma, one of the Canary
Islands. Their water having become foul and stinking, they purified it,
by forcing a stream of air through it, by means of a kind of ventilator
constructed for that purpose. On the 27th and 28th they saw the Canary
Islands, and anchored in the bay of Port Praya on the 30th.--Having
taken in water, and purchased some fresh provisions, they sailed with
all possible expedition, for fear of the tornadoes, which are very
common on this coast from August till November.
Most of the crew had purchased monkies, lean goats, and fowls, in
exchange for their old jackets, shirts, &c. It had been remarked before,
and was now again observed, that no fish would come near the ship, which
was attributed to her being sheathed with copper; this was a mortifying
circumstance, as there were immense numbers of fish within sight.
On the 13th of September they came to an anchor in the road of Rio de
Janeiro, on the coast of Brazil, when the Commodore paid a visit to the
Governor, who received him in state, being attended by some persons of
distinction, and having many officers, and a Captain’s guard under arms
before the palace. Fifteen guns were fired in honour of the English
flag; and the Governor afterwards returned the Commodore’s visit on
board the Dolphin. Many of the people on board the Tamar being sick,
lodgings were provided for them on shore, where they soon recovered; but
the crew of the Dolphin kept their health, through the plentiful use of
fresh meat and greens.
While the ship lay in this harbour, the Portuguese enticed away nine of
the crew of the Tamar, and five from the Dolphin. The former were
recovered, by a party sent after them in the night; but the Commodore
could never learn where his men were secreted. This practice of
kidnapping the English tars is here carried on with impunity; and when
all other methods fail, the poor fellows are generally made drunk, and
then sent up the country, till the ship to which they belong is sailed.
They weighed anchor on the 16th of October, and on the 22d the Commodore
informed the crew that they were not bound, as they thought, directly to
the East Indies, but on a voyage to make discoveries; and that, on their
behaving well, the Lords of the Admiralty had ordered them double pay,
and other emoluments. They were transported with this news, declared
their willingness to serve their country, and promised obedience to the
orders of the Commodore. On the 29th they encountered so violent a
storm, that they were obliged to throw four guns overboard: it continued
very tempestuous all night, but dying away in the morning, they made
sail, and, in 35 degrees 50 minutes south latitude, found the weather
most intolerably cold, though it was now the latter end of October, and
November in that climate answers to May in England. The sailors now
repented the having bartered their old cloaths for eatables; but they
were soon re-furnished with the slops that were on board.
The Commodore, on the 2d of November, delivered their commissions to his
officers, after they had taken the customary oath. They now beheld vast
numbers of pintadoes, and other birds, in flocks about the ship.
Observing the colour of the water to be changed, they stood in for land
on the 11th of this month, and found ground at the depth of 45 fathom.
The next day the men on the forecastle called out, at the same instant,
“Land right a-head.” The Commodore looked forward, and saw what he
thought an island, composed of two hills, and land joining to it, which
ran far to the south-east; but in the end this proved to be only a
fog-bank, which vanished on a sudden. These deceptions are not
unfrequent: not long since the master of a vessel made oath, that he had
seen an island, and trees growing on it, between Newfoundland and the
west coast of Ireland; in consequence of which some ships were sent in
search of it, but it could never be found.
In the afternoon of the 13th the wind shifted, the sky grew black to
windward, and a strange noise was heard, resembling the roaring of the
sea on a shallow coast. Hundreds of birds were observed flying from the
storm, and shrieking through dreadful apprehension. At length it reached
the ship before she was prepared for it, and laid her on her side. The
first Lieutenant was beat down by the main sheet, by which some of his
teeth were knocked out, and he was otherwise terribly bruised. The
main-sail of the Tamar was split; but as she was to leeward of the
Dolphin, she had more time to prepare for the threatened storm. The wind
continued violent all night, but abated in the morning, when the sea was
observed to be covered with a small red fish, like cray-fish, great
numbers of which were catched by the ship’s crew.
On the 16th they steered for Cape Blanco, shaping their course agreeable
to the chart of it laid down in Anson’s Voyage. On the 17th they saw the
Cape, and for two days struggled hard to reach Port Desire; but the
description given of it in Narborough’s Voyage is so perplexed, that
they were much at a loss. They stood into a bay south of the Cape, but
could find no port. On the 20th they saw Penguin Island, and as Port
Desire was said to be a few leagues north-west of it, a boat was sent
out, which found it. In these seas there were thousands of seals and
penguins near the ship. On the 21st they entered the harbour of Port
Desire, and the Commodore in his boat, attended by two other boats, went
to sound it. Mr. Byron landed, and found the country all one continued
down, having neither shrubs or trees. They had a sight of four beasts,
near 13 hands high, and in shape like a deer, which they took to be
guanicoes. The Commodore having returned to his boat, went higher up the
harbour, to an island abounding with seals, more than 50 of which they
killed, some of them exceeding the size of an ordinary bullock. They
likewise killed a variety of birds, one with a head like an eagle, with
a large comb on it, and a white ruff, like a lady’s tippet, round the
neck; the feathers on the back were black, and of a most exquisite
polish; the legs were large and strong, with talons somewhat like the
eagle; the wings being extended, measured no less than 12 feet from
their extremities.
On the 21st the Tamar sailed into the harbour with the rising of the
tide; but the Dolphin waiting for a wind, ran on shore, where she
remained all night, and the next day, in very tempestuous weather. On
the 23d they saw the track of a tyger, and several other beasts, and
found a nest of ostriches eggs, which proved to be good eating. On the
24th the ships were both properly moored in the harbour, where the water
rises no less than 27 feet at spring tides.
The Commodore went on shore this day, and shot a hare weighing 26
pounds, and saw several others as large as fawns. On the 25th he landed
again, and found the barrel of an old musquet, with the King’s broad
arrow on it, and an old oar of a singular form. The musquet-barrel was
so decayed, that it would crumble to dust with the touch. These things,
it is probable, were left by the crew of the Wager, or, possibly, by Sir
John Narborough.
They here saw the remains of fires, but met with no inhabitants. The
only vegetable they found was wild peas. They killed several wild ducks,
and shot a ball through the body of a hare, which ran two miles before
he dropped: the flesh of this animal is delicious, and as white as snow.
Two old guanicoes and a fawn were killed by another party; and some of
the former were seen of 300 weight.
The skull and bones of a man having been found, were brought on board;
as was likewise a young guanicoe, which was very beautiful, and grew
quite tame; but died in a short time. Happily, on the 27th, two springs
of tolerable water were found; and on the next day a tun of it was
brought on board. The Commodore went again on shore, where such an
immense number of birds took flight, as actually darkened the sky, and
it was impossible to walk without treading on their eggs. These eggs the
men ate, though there were young birds in the greater part of them.
On the 30th some men being sent on shore for water, two of them, who
first came to it, saw a tyger lying on the ground, who taking no kind of
notice of them, they threw stones at him: still, however, they could not
provoke his rage; he waited till the rest came up, and then walked
leisurely off. The country near this bay abounds with geese, ducks,
widgeon, and sea-pies, besides several birds, the names of which are
unknown.
On the 5th of December the ships got under sail, and, during that and
the following day, had pleasant weather and a fine gale. They now
steered for Pepys’ Isle, which is described as lying in 47 degrees south
latitude. The weather was now very clear, and the ships, by spreading
from each other, could, between them, command a prospect of 20 leagues.
They thus continued their search for this supposed island till the 11th
of the month, when the Commodore, convinced that there was no such
place, resolved to stand in for the main, to take in wood and water,
which began to be much wanted.
Large whales now swam frequently about the ship, and birds flew round
them in great numbers. On the 15th the wind blew a perfect hurricane,
before which it would have been safest to have ran; but the fear of
being driven too far from land, while they were in want of water,
determined them to endeavour to weather it, which they did till it
abated, which was at eight o’clock the next morning. On the 18th they
saw land, which, like that near Port Desire, was of the downy kind
without trees. They now observed porpoises, which were milk white, with
black spots, pursuing the fish in the sea, of which there were great
numbers.
On the 20th they ran close in shore to Cape Virgin Mary; and having
observed a smoke on shore, and a number of guanicoes feeding in the
vallies, they came to an anchor. The next day they again sailed, and at
length anchored about two miles from the shore, near the place where
they had seen smoke the preceding day. The Commodore observed a number
of men on horse-back, riding to and fro, opposite the ship, and waving
something white, which he took to be an invitation to land; and as he
was anxious to know what people these were, he went in one boat with a
party of men well armed; the first Lieutenant with a separate party
following in another. When they came near the shore, they saw a great
number of people on horseback, and some on foot, the whole amounting, as
they judged, to five hundred; who were drawn up on a stony point of land
that ran far into the sea. Though the Commodore did not observe that
they had any weapons, he made signs for them to retreat a little, which
they readily did, and kept shouting very loud while the crew were
landing; which was no sooner done, than they were mustered on the beach,
with their officers at their head.
Mr. Byron now advanced alone, but as he approached, the Indians
retreated; he therefore made signs, that one of them should come
forward, which was complied with. The person who advanced appeared to be
a chief, and was very near seven feet in heighth: round one of his eyes
was a circle of black paint, and a white circle round the other; the
rest of his face was painted in streaks of various colours. He had the
skin of a beast, with the hair inwards, thrown over his shoulders. The
Commodore and the Indian having complimented each other, in language
equally unintelligible to either, they walked together towards the main
body of the Indians, few of whom were shorter than the height
abovementioned, and the women were large in proportion. Mr. Byron made
signs for them to sit on the ground, which they did, chanting in a most
serious and melancholy tone. The eyes of any one face were never painted
with the same colours; some being white and red, some black and red, and
some black and white: their teeth were white and even; they were all
dressed much alike; but that some of them wore a sort of boots, having a
spur of peaked wood fastened to each heel.
The Commodore having prevailed on some, who were still galloping about,
to alight and sit down with the rest, he distributed some white and
yellow beads among them, which they very gladly accepted. He then took a
piece of ribband, and giving the end of it into the hands of the first
Indian, he continued it to the next, and so on as they sat, to the end
of the ribband. He then cut it with a pair of scissars between every two
of them; and tied each man’s share round his head, which they did not
attempt to remove. It was remarked, that though the presents were
insufficient to supply them all, no one pressed forward from the station
assigned him, nor seemed to envy the superior good fortune of his
neighbour.
[Illustration: _Commodore Byron Conversing with a Patagonian Woman._]
Among these gigantic people, one woman, who was of the largest size, and
most disagreebly painted, had her hair adorned with beads of blue grass,
hanging, in two divisions, down before her shoulders; and she had
bracelets of pale gold or brass, on her arms; but there was no learning
how she obtained this finery. One of the men shewed Mr. Byron the bowl
of a tobacco pipe, made of red earth, and made signs that he wanted some
tobacco, none of which they had among them. On this the Commodore
beckoned to the seamen, who still remained drawn up on the beach, three
or four of whom instantly running forward, the Indians were alarmed, and
jumping up in an instant, were preparing to retire, as it was supposed,
to fetch their arms. Mr. Byron therefore ran and stopped the sailors,
directing one of them only to come forward, when he had got all the
tobacco they could muster among them. This restored peace, and all the
Indians resumed their places, except an old man, who sung a long song to
Mr. Byron; at nearly the conclusion of which Mr. Cumming, the first
Lieutenant, brought the tobacco. This gentleman, tho’ six feet two
inches high, was himself astonished at the diminutive figure he cut
among the strangers, who were broad and muscular in proportion to their
height. The Commodore having distributed the tobacco, they made signs
for him to ride to their huts; but he intimated, that he must return to
the ship; on which they sat down again, apparently much concerned. Their
horses, though not large, were active, and much under command: their
saddles were like an English pad, and the bridle was formed of a thong
of leather, with the bit made of wood; they had no stirrups, and both
men and women rode astride. When the Commodore left them they kept their
seats, not once offering to follow him.
On the 21st of December they began sailing up the Streight of Magellan,
with a view to take in a proper stock of wood and water, as the finding
Falkland’s Islands was yet a matter of uncertainty. They remarked a
single Indian on this shore, who waved his hand to them till he lost
sight of the ship; they likewise saw several guanicoes on the hills. On
the evening of the 22d six Indians came on the beach, hallooing, and
making signs that they wished an acquaintance with the crew; but, as the
seamen were fatigued, the Commodore would not send off a boat to them.
On the 25th they saw a point of land near St. George’s Island, to which
Mr. Byron gave the name of PORPOIS POINT.
Having anchored at ten at night, the Commodore went the next morning in
quest of wood and water, plenty of which they found on the point
abovementioned. A fine level country lies over the point, the soil of
which appeared to be very luxuriant, producing innumerable flowers of
several kinds, the smell of which was extremely fragrant; there was also
a plenty of good grass, among which grew peas that were then in blossom.
They saw hundreds of painted geese, (so called from their beauty) which
were feeding among this variety of sweets: they likewise found an
abundance of plants, and wild celery in great quantities. Many Indian
wigwams were seen, situated in the woods, near streams of water; these
had been lately occupied, as the fires appeared but just burnt out. In a
walk of twelve miles they saw no place proper for a boat to land, the
sea breaking high on the shore. Mr. Byron returned in the evening, and
found that some of the men had been shooting geese, teal, and snipes,
while others had employed themselves, with equal success, in fishing:
these employments indeed became necessary, as the men could have eaten
thrice their allowance, owing to the keen air of the country.
On the 26th they steered for Port Famine, and came to an anchor, close
to the shore, the next day at noon. In this place they found drift-wood
enough to have supplied a thousand vessels. The Commodore went four
miles up Sedger river, but could proceed no farther, the trees which had
fallen across the stream impeding the boat’s way; one of the stumps of
them having made a hole in her bottom, she was immediately filled with
water: but they made shift to get her on shore, and stopped the leak, so
as to return in her to the mouth of the river. The banks of this stream
are furnished with the noblest trees, sufficient in number to supply
masts for the whole navy of Great Britain. Some of these were so large,
that four men joined hand in hand could not enclose them; and, among the
rest, the pepper tree was found. These woods abound in parrots, and
other beautiful birds. The quantity of fish that was daily taken was
equal to the supply of both the crews; and the Commodore shot as many
geese and ducks as furnished several tables besides his own.
While the ships lay at anchor here, Mr. Byron and a party went on shore;
but being catched in a violent rain, they stopped where some Indians had
left a fire, the wood of which was yet warm; and kindling a fire to dry
their cloaths, another fire was instantly made on Terra del Fuego, the
opposite shore, which they imagined to be a signal, on a supposition
they were Indians. The hills were craggy, of an amazing height, and
wholly covered with snow; but the plains were adorned with flowers,
equal in fragrance and beauty to those in the gardens of England.
The Commodore having ordered a tent to be erected on the borders of a
wood, and adjoining to a rivulet, three of the sailors were there
stationed to wash linen, and they laid in the tent. One evening, soon
after they had retired to rest, they were awakened by the deep and
hollow roarings of some wild beasts, which came nearer them every
moment. Terrified with apprehension, they made and kept up a blazing
fire, round which the beasts walked at a small distance till the dawn of
the morning, when they retired.
Near where the ships rode at anchor was a hill cleared of wood, which
they imagined to have been a Spanish settlement, mention of which is
made in Captain Wallis’s Voyage, as will be seen in the course of this
work. Both ships having taken in sufficient wood and water by the 4th of
January, 1765, they sailed at four o’clock in the morning, in quest of
Falkland’s Islands; but the wind dying away, they were obliged to come
to an anchor the day following.
On Sunday the 6th they again made sail, and the Commodore, who had been
twenty-four hours on deck, retired to sleep; but he was soon awakened by
the vessel beating on a bank. Happily, at this instant, it was a perfect
calm, so that the rising of the tide soon carried the ship safe off
again. On the 8th the officer of the watch discovered that the head of
the main-mast was sprung, which they supposed to have happened in a
violent gale some time before; but effectual methods were immediately
taken to repair the damage.
On the 12th they saw land, which was taken for De Wert’s Islands, and at
the same time other land to the south, which was judged to be what is
called New Islands in the charts. This land consists chiefly of
mountainous and barren rocks, on which were great numbers of birds.
Seals abound here, and large whales were seen spouting round the ship.
On the 14th they saw a flat island, covered with tufts of grass as large
as bushes; and on the following day the Commodore sent a boat from each
ship, to examine an opening which had the appearance of an harbour;
which being discovered, they stood in for it in the afternoon, and found
it excellent beyond their most sanguine hopes. Soon after this they
entered another harbour, to which Mr. Byron gave the name of Port
Egmont, from the title of the nobleman at that time First Lord of the
Admiralty. This harbour is represented to be the finest in the world,
and capacious enough to contain the whole navy of England, in full
security: there is plenty of fresh water in every part of it; and geese,
ducks, snipes, and other edible birds, abound in such numbers, that the
sailors were tired with eating them. The geese were knocked down with
stones, so that it was no unusual thing for a boat to bring off sixty or
seventy of those birds, without the necessity of shooting a single one.
Seals and penguins abound here; sea lions of a prodigious size are found
on the coast; and there is plenty of muscles, cockles, clams, and
limpets. The woods produce sorrel and wild celery in great abundance.
The Commodore was once unexpectedly attacked by a sea lion, and
extricated himself from the impending danger with great difficulty: they
had many battles with this animal, the killing of one of which was
frequently an hour’s work for six men; one of them almost tore to pieces
the Commodore’s mastiff dog, by a single bite. The Master having been
sent to sound the coast, four very fierce animals ran after the boat’s
crew till they were up to their bellies in water; so that they were
obliged to put from the shore, as they had no fire-arms in the boat. The
next day, on the opposite shore, Mr. Byron and his company saw a sea
lion of an enormous size; and the crew, being well armed, instantly
engaged him. While they were thus employed, one of the other animals
posted towards them; but a ball being lodged in his body, he was
instantly dispatched. Five of these beasts were killed this day, in
their attempts to seize the men, whom they always pursued the moment
they got sight of them. They were of a mixed shape, between a wolf and a
fox; most like the latter, but of the size of the former. They burrow in
the ground like a fox, feed on seals and penguins, and are very numerous
on the coast. The sailors, in order to be rid of such disagreeable
companions, set fire to the grass, which burnt so rapidly, that the
country was all in a blaze for some days, and these animals were seen
running to seek shelter from its fury.
[Illustration: _The Wolf Fox of Faulkland’s Islands._]
While they lay in this harbour the crew breakfasted on portable soup and
wild celery, thickened with oatmeal, which made a very nutritive mess.
The soil of the island was a light clay under a black mould. The
Commodore thinks this the same place which, in Cowley’s Voyage, is
called Pepys’ Island; but he took possession of the harbour, and all the
adjacent islands, by the name of FALKLAND’S ISLANDS, for George the
Third, King of Great Britain. It is to the honour of the Surgeon of the
Tamar frigate, that during their stay there, he made a fence of turf
near the watering-place, round a tract of land, which he planted with
vegetables, for the use of those who may hereafter touch at this port.
On Sunday, January the 27th, they left Port Egmont, and the same day saw
a remarkable head-land, which was named CAPE TAMAR; soon after which
they passed a rock, which Mr. Byron called the EDISTONE, and then sailed
between that and a head-land, to which he gave the name of CAPE DOLPHIN.
The distance from Cape Tamar to Cape Dolphin is about eight leagues,
and, from its appearance, was called CARLISLE SOUND, though it is since
known to be the northern entrance of the streight between the two
principal islands. The land seen during the course of this day was all
downs, having neither trees nor bushes, but large tufts of grass in
various places.
Having anchored during the night, they sailed again the next day, when
the Commodore gave the name of BERKLEY’S SOUND to a deep sound between
the islands. About four miles to the southward of the south point of
this sound the sea breaks very high, on some rocks that appear above
water. The coast now wore a dangerous aspect, rocks and breakers being
at a considerable distance from the shore, and in all directions; and
the country appeared barren and desolate. The sea now rising high, the
Commodore sailed to the northward, to prevent being driven on a
lee-shore. He imagines the whole circumference of Falkland’s Islands to
be little less than 700 miles.
At eight in the evening they stood to the westward, and held their
course till the 6th of February, when they saw, and stood in for, Port
Desire, at the mouth of which they came to an anchor, and had the
pleasure of seeing the Florida, a store-ship, which they had expected
from England. On Thursday the Master of the store-ship went on board the
Dolphin, and informed the Commodore of the extreme bad condition of his
ship; on which it was resolved to attempt the unloading her in the
harbour, though a place very ill calculated for the purpose. They
therefore entered the harbour; but the night proving very tempestuous,
the Tamar and the Florida both made signals of distress, having been
driven from their moorings up the harbour. On this and the following
night they were both saved from driving on shore; and as the store-ship
was in constant danger of being lost, Mr. Byron sent hands on board to
assist in repairing her, and resolved to take her with him into the
Streight of Magellan before he unloaded her. In this harbour the rudder
of the Dolphin was likewise repaired, there being no timber proper for
making her a new one.
On the 13th the Florida put to sea, with orders to steer directly for
Port Famine; and on the next day she was followed by the Dolphin and
Tamar. The three following days they saw a strange vessel following
them, which shaped her course, and sailed faster or slower, exactly as
they did, a circumstance that caused much speculation. The Commodore
being obliged to wait for the Florida, which was far a-stern, imagined
the stranger would speak with him, and therefore made the necessary
dispositions to give her a proper reception. When he came to an anchor
the stranger did the same, four miles to windward of him; but in the
morning she was seen three leagues to the leeward. She now got under
way, and approached the Dolphin; on which the Commodore got eight guns,
which were all that could be come at, to one side of the ship, as he lay
at anchor. Neither party hoisted any colours; but about this time the
store-ship running a-ground, the strange vessel hoisted French colours,
and sent two boats, with an anchor, to assist her. The Commodore now
sent a boat from each of his ships to the assistance of the Florida,
with positive orders not to let the French boats board her; but to
acknowledge, in a proper manner, the offer of assistance. These orders
were obeyed, and the store-ship was got off.
They weighed anchor at six in the evening, and anchored again at eleven;
at which time the French vessel did the same, but in a situation that
shewed her ignorance of the channel they were in.
On the 19th they again sailed; and as the French vessel steered after
them, Mr. Byron thought they came from Falkland’s Islands, where there
was then a French settlement, to take in wood, or that they were on a
survey of the Streight of Magellan, in which they were now sailing. On
the 20th they reached Port Famine, when the Dolphin and Tamar having
taken as much provision out of the store-ship as they could find room
for, the Master received orders to sail for England as soon as possible;
it being determined to navigate the other ships through the Streight.
On the 25th they passed the French ship, which was in a small cove, and
near her a large quantity of wood, which the Commodore had no doubt was
intended for their new settlement. On Mr. Byron’s return to England this
appeared to be the fact; and that the ship was commanded by Mons.
Bougainville, and called the Eagle.
The rest of the account of their passage thro’ the Streight of Magellan,
consists chiefly of the names of places, and descriptions of soundings,
bearings and distances, which could not fail of proving unintelligible,
if not disgusting, to the generality of readers. Whatever is really
worth the notice of those who read either for instruction or
entertainment, shall be faithfully recited in the following pages.
[Illustration: A CHART of the _STRAITS_ of MAGELLAN.]
The mountains on both sides of the Streight are covered with snow from
the top to the bottom; are steep and craggy, and of a most desolate
appearance. On the 1st of March two or three canoes of Indians followed
the ship, one of which went on board. This canoe was of bark, and
wretchedly made: it contained some men, women, and a boy, who had bows
and arrows, which they exchanged for beads and other trinkets: the cord
of the bow was made of the gut of some beast dried, and the arrows were
formed of a reed, pointed with a green stone. These people had no other
garment than a seal skin thrown over their shoulders, and they made, on
the whole, a most wretched appearance. When the ship came to an anchor,
several of the Indians went on board, and gladly accepted some ribbands,
beads, and other trifling matters, with which the Commodore presented
them. These people subsist chiefly on muscles and berries, some of the
latter of which they gave Mr. Byron, when he returned their visit on
shore.
Having narrowly escaped the dreadful effects of a storm on the 3d of
March, boats were repeatedly sent out till the 6th, in search of a
proper place to anchor in; and at length the Dolphin was moored in a
little bay opposite Cape Quod; and the Tamar, which could not work up so
far, about six miles to the eastward of it. This part of the Streight
being only four miles over, its appearance is dreary and desolate beyond
imagination, owing to the prodigious mountains on each side of it, which
rise above the clouds, and are covered with perpetual snow. On the 8th
they met with a large number of shell-fish; and on this day the
Commodore went up a deep lagoon under a rock, at the head of which was a
fine fall of water, and on the east side of it several small coves,
calculated for the secure reception of ships of the greatest burden.
On the 12th an officer was sent in a boat, in search of an harbour; and
in two days he returned with an account, that there were five bays
between the ship and Cape Upright, in any one of which they might anchor
securely. While this officer was absent, he met with some Indians, who
made him a present of a dog, and one of the women having a sucking
child, offered to give it him! At this time winter commenced with all
its severity, and the hills were soon covered with snow. The cold became
so intense that the seamen, whose clothes were continually wet, suffered
severely: to fortify them against this inclemency of weather, the
Commodore gave a warm jacket of woollen stuff, called fearnought, to the
crews of both ships, officers included.
On the 16th perceiving they lost ground on every tack, they came to an
anchor; but finding the ground to be rocky, they weighed again, and
every man on board was on deck the rest of the day and the whole night,
during which time the rain poured down on them in unremitting torrents.
Notwithstanding this incessant labour, they found, in the morning, that
they had been only losing way, owing to the rapidity of the current.
They were now glad to anchor in the very bay they had left two days
before.
As it continued to rain and blow violently for two days longer, the
Commodore sent a boat to sound the bay on the north shore; but no
anchorage could be found. On the 20th the vessel was driven from her
moorings, but by heaving up the bower-anchor, and carrying out another,
they soon restored her to her situation. After labouring all day on the
21st, they had gained only two miles on the current, when they came to
an anchor; but the sea running high, they sailed the day following; and
the current now running to the westward, they made great way, and, in
the evening, anchored in a commodious bay, where the Tamar had arrived
before them. It is remarkable that, notwithstanding the late severity of
the weather added to their incessant labour, the crew retained both
health and spirits.
On the 23d they again set sail, and in a few hours had sight of the
South Sea, which rolled a prodigious swell on them. On the 25th two
boats which had been sent in search of anchoring-places, returned with
an account, that they had found two, but neither of them very eligible;
they, however, made sail the next morning, and at four in the afternoon
found themselves within a mile of the south shore, which the thickness
of the weather prevented their seeing sooner; but as there was no place
to anchor in, they stood for the opposite shore. Between six and seven
the Tamar was ordered under the stern of the Dolphin, and then directed
to keep a-head of her during the night to show lights, and as often as
she varied her tack to fire a gun. At seven in the evening the weather
cleared for a minute, so that they had sight of the north-shore, bearing
west by north, on which they instantly tacked-about. The wind now blew a
perfect hurricane; the rain descended in torrents; some of the sails
were torn to rags; and during this tempestuous night, in which the sea
was continually breaking over them, the ships parted company, and were
encompassed with rocks and breakers: however, they happily weathered the
storm, and at seven in the morning both ships came to an anchor. They
had now been twice within four leagues of Tuesday’s Bay, at the western
mouth of the streight, and twice driven ten or twelve leagues back again
by storms; so dangerous is the navigation of this streight at an
improper season of the year.
On the 28th the Tamar narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces against
the rocks, by the parting of the cable to her best bower-anchor. The
Dolphin weighed anchor the next morning, and got under sail, which she
had no sooner done, than signals of distress were made on board the
Tamar, the anchor of which could not be purchased. The Dolphin,
therefore, stood again into the bay, and sent her the proper assistance,
after which they both anchored for the night; a night the most dreadful
they had yet known. The winds were so violent as perfectly to tear up
the sea, and carry it higher than the heads of the masts: a dreadful sea
rolled over them, and broke against the rocks with a noise as loud as
thunder. Happily, they did not part their cables, or they must have been
dashed in pieces against these rocks.
On the following day (April 1st) it was almost a perfect calm; but in
the evening it rained much, and the wind blew violently: they therefore
remained in their station till the 4th, when the cutter, which had been
sent in search of a proper anchoring-place, returned with an account, of
having found such place to the west of the north-shore.
The officer who commanded the cutter had met with a party of Indians,
whose canoe was of a construction not observed before, being composed of
planks sewed together. These Indians had no covering but a piece of
seal-skin thrown over their shoulders. Their food, which was of the most
indelicate kind, was eaten raw: one of them tore a piece of stinking
whale’s blubber with his teeth, and then gave it his companions, who
followed his example. One of these Indians observing a sailor asleep,
cut off a part of his jacket with a sharp flint.
The ships soon came to an anchor in the bay which had been discovered,
proposing to take in wood and water. While they remained here, several
of the natives made a fire opposite the ship; on which signals were made
for them to come on board; but as they would not, the Commodore went on
shore, and gave them some trifles, which pleased them highly; he
likewise divided some biscuit among them, and was surprized to remark,
that if a bit of it fell to the ground, not one of them would stoop to
take it up without his permission: some of the sailors being at this
time cutting grass for a few sheep which the Commodore had on board, the
Indians instantly ran to their assistance, and tearing up the grass in
large quantities, soon filled the boat. On Mr. Byron’s return, they
followed in their canoe till they came near the ship, at which they
gazed with the most profound astonishment. Four of them were at length
prevailed on to go on board; and the Commodore, with a view to their
diversion, directed one of the midshipmen to play on the violin, while
some of the seamen danced; the poor Indians were extravagantly
delighted; and one of them, to testify his gratitude, took his canoe,
and fetching some red paint, rubbed it all over the face of the
musician; nor could the Commodore, but with the utmost difficulty,
escape the like compliment. When they had been diverted for some hours,
it was hinted to them, that they should go on shore which they at length
did, tho’ with evident reluctance.
They sailed from this bay on the 7th, and on the 8th again encountered
very bad weather, as it rained and snowed, while the wind blew a
hurricane. On the 9th they passed some dangerous rocks, which in
Narborough’s Voyage are called the Judges, and on which the surf beats
with prodigious violence. This day, contrary to expectation, a steady
gale at south-west carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, so
that by eight in the evening they were 20 leagues from the coast on
which they had encountered so many perils.
The Commodore recommends it to future navigators, to be at the eastern
entrance of the Streight of Magellan in December; in which case he
thinks even a fleet of ships might navigate it safely in about three
weeks. He observes, that the facility with which wood and water are to
be obtained; the vast plenty of vegetables on the coast, and the
abundance of fish which may be almost every where procured, are
advantages highly in favour of this passage. It is remarkable, that in
seven weeks and two days, the time they were in passing it, not a single
man was sick of the scurvy, or any other disorder.
On the 26th they sailed westward, bearing away for the Island of
Masafuero, which they were within seven leagues of the same evening. The
next day they bore away for the north of the Island, and then lay by for
the boats, which had been sent to sound the eastern side, but could not
land for the violence of the surf. The boats returning, brought a number
of fine fish, which had been catched with the hook and line: and the
officer reporting, that he had found a bank where they might anchor, and
opposite to which was plenty of fresh water; they made sail for this
bank, on which they anchored at 7 o’clock on Sunday morning. The boats
were now sent out for wood and water, their crews having put on
cork-jackets, to assist them in swimming, and prevent their being
bruised against the rocks. In these seas were a great number of very
large sharks, which were frequently very near the swimmers; but they
providential escaped them. One of these voracious fish seized a large
seal close to one of the watering-boats, and devoured it in an instant;
and the Commodore saw another do the same, close to the stern of the
ship. The island abounds in goats, many of which were killed and sent on
board, and they were deemed equal in flavour to the finest venison. One
of the goats had his right ear slit, so as to make it evident that some
person had caught him, given him that mark of distinction, and let him
go again. Various sorts of excellent fish were now so plenty, that they
could catch sufficient to supply the whole crew two days, in a few
hours, with hook and line only.
The gunner and one of the seamen, who were, with others, on shore for
water, were left behind all night, being afraid to venture in the boat,
as the sea ran high. The Commodore being informed of this circumstance,
sent them word, that as blowing weather might be expected, the ship
might be driven from her moorings in the night, in which case they would
infallibly be left behind. This message being delivered, the gunner swam
to the boat; but the sailor saying, he had rather die a natural death
than be drowned, refused to make the attempt; and taking a melancholy
farewell of his companions, resolved to abide his fate; when, just as
the boat was going to put off, a midshipman took the end of a rope in
his hand, and swam on shore, where he remonstrated with the poor tar on
the foolish resolution he had taken, till having an opportunity of
throwing the rope, in which was a running knot, round his body, he
called to the boat’s crew, who instantly dragged their companion on
board, but he had swallowed so much water that he appeared to be dead.
They recovered him, however, by holding up his heels, and on the day
following he was perfectly well.
The Commodore now made a promotion among the officers, he appointed
captain Mouat, captain of the Dolphin under him, making Mr. Cumming, the
first lieutenant of the Dolphin, captain of the Tamar, and advancing
some other inferior officers.
They sailed on the 30th of April, steering in various directions till
the 10th of May, on which, and the day following, they saw several
dolphins and bonettas round the ship, and observed a few birds which had
a short beak; all their bodies being white, except the back and the
upper part of the wings. They saw several grampuses the next day, and
more of the birds just mentioned; from whence they concluded, that they
approached some land. Two remarkable birds, as large as geese, with
white bodies and black legs, and which flew very high, were observed on
the 16th, from whence it was conjectured, that they had passed some
main-land, or islands. On the 22d they saw several tropic birds, and
caught two bonettas; and on the 26th two large birds, the beak and neck
of which were white, and all the rest black, flew about the ship. On the
28th two other birds, one black and white, and the other brown and
white, would have settled on the yards, but were intimidated by the
working of the ship. For several days after they saw great numbers of
birds, and on the 7th of June they discovered land, being then in
fourteen degrees five minutes south latitude, and 144 degrees 58 minutes
west longitude.
The Commodore now steered for a small island, the appearance of which
was pleasing beyond expression, being surrounded by a beach of fine
white sand, and covered with lofty trees, which extending their shade to
a considerable distance, and having no underwood, formed the most
elegant groves that the imagination can paint an idea of. Several of the
natives soon appeared, having long spears in their hands, who made large
fires, which were answered by corresponding fires on an island to the
windward. A boat was sent to look out for an anchoring-place, but none
was to be found. At this time many of the best hands were confined to
their hammocks with the scurvy; while those who were able to keep the
deck, looked and languished for those re-invigorating delicacies which
were unhappily beyond their reach. The shells of turtle were strewed
along the shore, and they beheld numbers of cocoa-nuts, to the milk of
which fruit the scurvy seldom fails to yield. The inhabitants of this
island kept a-breast of the ship, dancing and shouting: they sometimes
shook their spears, and then falling backwards, lay motionless, as if
dead, which was understood to be a threat of destruction to such as
should presume to land. They likewise fixed two spears in the sand, on
the top of which were fastened some things which waved in the air:
before these they kneeled, and appeared as if invoking the assistance of
the Deity against the supposed invaders. The Commodore was tempted, from
its very appearance, to sail round the island; while he was doing which,
he again sent out boats to sound; on, which the natives made a most
hideous out-cry; took up and balanced large stones in their hands, and
pointed to their spears. The sailors, on the contrary, made every
possible sign of friendship, throwing bread and other things on shore;
which they would not touch, but retired to the woods, dragging their
canoes after them. This being done, they ran into the water, watching as
for an opportunity to drag the boat on shore. The seamen, irritated at
this behaviour, would have fired on the Indians, but were restrained by
command of the officer on board.
The crew of the boats having again reported, that no anchorage could be
found, the Commodore proceeded to the other island, and on the next
morning brought to, at three quarters of a mile from the shore. Several
other islands were now seen, covered with the cocoa-nut-tree. The
natives again ran to the beach, armed with clubs and spears, using
threatening gestures. The Commodore fired a cannon-shot over their
heads, on which they retreated to the woods. The boats having been again
sent out, returned with an account, that no landing-place could be
found; on which Mr. Byron named this paradise in appearance, the ISLANDS
OF DISAPPOINTMENT. The natives are stout, and well made, very quick
runners, and their complexion is that of the deep copper.