PART I_Simplex Munditiis, Gentlemen

SIMPLEX MUNDITIIS

GENTLEMEN

[Illustration]

NEW-YORK

THE DE VINNE PRESS

MDCCCXCI

SIMPLEX MUNDITIIS PUBLISHING CO.

ALL WHO ADMIRE

PERFECT DRESS AND CORRECT SOCIAL HABITS

This Book is Dedicated

IN THE HOPE THAT

THE PRINCIPLES IT TEACHES MAY PROMOTE

STRICT OBSERVANCE OF THE

USAGES OF SOCIETY.

PART I

DRESS FOR GENTLEMEN

CONTENTS

PAGE

INTRODUCTION 11

MORNING WEAR 15

AFTERNOON DRESS 21

EVENING DRESS 27

THE OVERCOAT 33

ATTIRE FOR RIDING, DRIVING, TRAVELING,

YACHTING, AND LOUNGING 38

HOUSE WEAR 48

SLEEPING ATTIRE 50

LINEN 51

UNDERCLOTHING 55

THE ART OF DRESSING THE COLLAR 57

WALKING STICK AND UMBRELLA 63

MISCELLANIES 65

DRESS FOR WEDDINGS—FUNERALS—CHRISTENINGS—AT

HOME OR CHURCH—NEW YEAR’S

CALLS—MOURNING—CHURCH

WEAR—SUSPENDERS—UPPERS—ATTIRE

MADE TO ORDER—BLONDES AND

BRUNETTES—JEWELRY—DRESSING CASE—ARTICLES

FOR SAME—RUBBERS—ENGLISH RAIN

ATTIRE—CLOTH BANDS ON TOP-HATS—WIGS—OPERA

GLASS—DECORATIONS—FANS—TROUSERS

CREASE—POCKETS—MONOCLE—DRESS

SHIELDS—ENGLISH HUNT ATTIRE—HUNT

BALL—CLOSING REMARKS.

_INTRODUCTION_

_Dress is the embodiment of taste and refinement. A man looks, and is,

distinguished, when he shows simple elegance in his dress. It is not

necessary to have wealth in order to dress well. With judgment and

economy, one can be something of a dresser. This book is but a guide for

men who desire to dress, and are perplexed by the multitude of things

there are to wear, and the ever-changing styles._

_When a thing becomes vulgarly popular, then, if you wish to be in dress,

as well as manners, a gentleman, cast it aside, and seek something newer

and less common._

_Dressing may be carried to any extent, but it is not good taste to do

so._

_A gentleman is conspicuous for one thing only—his good taste. Above all

dress are manners and grace. Without these, one can never be a gentleman._

_In the other part of this work, manners and customs may be studied._

_A gentleman is a man of taste, culture, and refinement._

_No man is a gentleman who merely does the acts of a gentleman. He must

show good breeding—in dress, manners, and conversation._

_His dress is the perfection of raiment. His manner is grace and ease

personified. His conversation, knowledge itself._

_Proud, indeed, may the man be who can write after his name—gentleman._

_Let “Simplex Munditiis” be your motto for dress._

_Each person must remember one thing: that, to be distingué in dress, he

must dress, as regards material, richly; and, as to pattern of cloth,

plainly. In other words, simple elegance shows the gentleman._

_Everything you wear must be immaculate._

_There are three dress divisions of the day:_

_Morning wear._

_Afternoon dress._

_Evening dress._

_The first may be worn any time of the day before_ 6 P. M., _though it

belongs to the morning_.

_The second is not worn before_ 2 P. M.

_The third is not worn before_ 6 P. M.

_The attire for all athletic games, sports, amusements, for the clergy,

and gentlemen in the army and navy, it is not within the province of

this work to treat of. In fact, we treat of only that which is worn by

a gentleman at home or abroad, in summer or winter, when mingling in

society._

[Illustration]

MORNING WEAR

WORN ANY TIME OF DAY

Indoors or outdoors, morning wear consists of the following, as the

tastes of the wearer may dictate.

_The Head._—The black felt derby is the proper hat for morning. The light

brown in derbys is a pleasing change for spring, summer, or fall wear.

But never be without a black derby, as it is the hat worn when not in

formal dress.

A derby is never worn with a frock body-coat, a cutaway body-coat, a

Cowes body-coat, on a dress body-coat. It belongs entirely to the

walking or sack body-coat.

Have your hats made to order. You will be better pleased in the end.

The derby is proper and becoming to men of all ages. I would caution any

one against wearing such derbys as are of a pearl, gray, drab, slate, and

cigar browns. These are all in bad taste. The slouch felt hat is ignored

by gentlemen. If a man desires light shades of derbys, then let him have

them the same shade as the suit he wears them with.

_The Hand._—Gloves for morning wear should be a dark tan, and made of kid.

Heavy weight for the winter months, and very light for summer.

Raw seams and arrow-back stitching is the style. Generally one button

only on wrist.

The leading furnishing shops are recommended for gloves.

If possible, have your gloves made to order; you are then sure of a

perfect fit.

Never wear a glove after it becomes soiled. It is just as bad as having

dirty hands.

_The Foot._—Calf-skin, patent leather, and enamel leather, are used for

walking shoes. They should be made with moderately thick soles, taper at

the toes, and lace.

It is best to have shoes made to order. Nothing about a man’s dress is so

quickly noticed as ill-fitting shoes.

_The Body._—The body-coat: This is a black sack body-coat, either double

or single breasted. Both styles are correct. The materials used are

thibets, cheviots, and black serges. At present they are made with four

buttons, very wide collars, and very long in the body.

The waistcoat: This always matches the body-coat in material and pattern.

Likewise, it may be double or single breasted. It is not necessary, in

this respect, for it to match the body-coat.

Trousers: These may be of any material and pattern. They may match

the material of the body-coat, or not, as the taste of the wearer may

dictate. It is better taste to wear dark trousers with morning wear. See

that your trousers have the proper cut, and fit perfectly. This is at

once the most difficult to fit, and the ugliest part—if ill-fitting—of

the attire for men. Therefore, give it the most attention. In order

to have them cut correctly you must rely on the fashion-plate and its

accompanying directions. Insist on your directions being followed by the

tailor.

There is also the cutaway suit for morning wear. This is worn mostly by

elderly and heavily built men. It consists of a cutaway body-coat four

buttons, waistcoat single-breasted, and trousers. These three pieces are

always of the same material and pattern. The same things are worn with

this as with the sack body-coat.

* * * * *

Heavy cloths for winter and light weights for summer wear.

The sack body-coat becomes all men, tall or short, thin or stout, old or

young.

Fancy serge waistcoats, also fine linen waistcoats, and sashes in summer,

may be worn with the sack body-coat.

Never wear trousers and waistcoat of one pattern, and body-coat another;

it is exceeding bad taste.

Suits, perfectly correct and very elegant, are made of selected

materials.

The sack body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers are always, in this case,

from the same piece of goods. Some beautiful materials of light shades

are made for summer wear. For winter wear darker and slightly heavier

materials are used.

* * * * *

_A Morning Promenade Dress._—This consists of frock body-coat, waistcoat,

and trousers. These three pieces are always cut from the same material

and pattern. The body-coat and waistcoat may be single or double-breasted.

Only light shades or patterns of cloths are used. Never have this

promenade dress in black. The correct head covering is the black silk

top-hat with this promenade dress.

[Illustration]

AFTERNOON DRESS

WORN AFTER TWO P. M.

_The Head._—A black silk top-hat. Always of the latest pattern, either

Paris, London, or New-York make. All are equally stylish. This hat, above

all others, should be made to order; this being necessary if you desire a

fit both becoming and comfortable.

In this city spring and summer have light weights. For fall and winter a

slightly heavier hat is made. This is the only proper hat for afternoon

dress in summer or winter.

_The Hand._—Light or dark tan kid walking gloves are worn. The back

stitching may be black silk or same shade as the glove. One or two

buttons.

Undressed kid gloves, either light or dark shades, are also worn

especially for afternoon receptions.

_The Foot._—The leathers used are patent, and enamel. Laced Bluchers are

worn at this time of day. For summer wear, the same, or the same leathers

made in ties. Again, I caution you to pay particular attention to the

fit, and have them made to order. You exercise your own taste as to the

style the shoe is made in.

_The Body._—The proper body-coat is the black cutaway. This is now

made with three buttons, and wide collar cut low, single-breasted. The

material used is diagonal. This body-coat should be of light weight, as

it is a dress body-coat. French Thibets are also used.

_The Waistcoat._—This is made of the same material as the body-coat. It

may be double or single breasted. The waistcoat should be cut low in

front, that the large puff scarf may be well exposed. Four buttons.

Waistcoats may be of selected materials such as fancy serges and fine

linens. In summer white or black silk sashes are worn.

_The Trousers._—These should be carefully selected and well-fitted. The

material and pattern should go well with black, as this is always the

color of the afternoon body-coat.

Any pattern, checks, stripes, etc., may be worn for afternoon dress.

Never wear loud patterns; they are exceedingly bad taste and rowdyish.

Never wear trousers of the same material as the body-coat or waistcoat,

as it is not afternoon dress.

Very light patterns may be worn in summer. In winter slightly darker

patterns are worn.

If pockets are placed in trousers they are apt to be used; this spoils

the set of the cloth around the hips. Therefore leave them out if

possible.

As a rule, the bottoms of trousers should be turned up—about two

inches—while walking in the street. Of course, on a clear day this is

unnecessary.

_Frock Body-coat._—This is the formal afternoon dress body-coat. In Paris

the men wear no other.

It is never worn before 4.30 P. M.

It is worn at day weddings, at teas, receptions, and on the promenade.

The material used is the same as in a cutaway body-coat. Always black

goods.

The same things are worn with a frock body-coat as with a cutaway

body-coat.

It is made single or double breasted.

The wardrobe of a gentleman is never complete without one or more frock

body-coats.

The frock body-coat is always worn buttoned. It is worn in summer, but

always with a waistcoat.

* * * * *

The cutaway body-coat is worn buttoned in winter, and may sometimes be

worn with rolled back collar in summer.

There is also a double-breasted cutaway body-coat, three buttons, always

black. This is worn more for promenading than anything else.

This can be worn in winter—on mild days—without a top-coat or greatcoat.

The waistcoat matches it and the trousers are selected.

Sometimes, for promenading in the spring, a frock body-coat with

waistcoat and trousers of the same piece of goods is worn. In this case

the material is some smooth, light-colored pattern.

Again, only a black silk top-hat can be worn with this frock suit.

This suit is worn without a greatcoat or light overcoat.

Afternoon dress is worn at day weddings, afternoon receptions, teas,

matinées, exhibitions of all kinds where ladies are present, and when

promenading with ladies.

[Illustration]

EVENING DRESS

WORN AFTER SIX P. M.

This is the culmination of grandeur in the dress of gentlemen. Bulwer’s

novel “Henry Pelham” is responsible for the almost complete blackness of

the attire for this otherwise gayest time of day.

_The Head._—The black silk top-hat is supreme and only here, as in

afternoon dress. Same style as that worn for afternoon dress. The crush

opera-hat is entirely out of style in this city. When indoors, the

top-hat should be carried in the left hand. The exceptions to this rule

are dances, evening receptions, and dinners.

_The Hand._—The white kid glove goes with evening dress, and must always

be worn with it, except at or during a dinner.

The back stitching may be self or black.

Pearl or gray shades are sometimes worn. No other covering should be worn

on the hand after 6 P. M.

If one travels through the streets and on the cars, the best glove to

wear—and perfectly proper—is the black kid glove, with black stitching,

worn only while _en route_.

Never wear tan-colored or any light shades of gloves with evening dress,

indoors or out-of-doors. It is bad taste, and looks, as it is, shoddy.

You may wear white evening gloves at any time or place after 6 P. M., and

you are not complete in your dress unless you so do.

_The Foot._—Dancing pumps are little worn in this city, in fact they are

_passé_. The climate is such, a man could never be out of his carriage,

if he wore pumps, without risk of a catarrh.

The proper shoe is made of patent leather, button, kid uppers, and no

tips. This is the shoe for evening dress.

Have them made to order, as that is the only way to secure a perfect fit.

_The Body._—The evening dress body-coat is always of a black material.

A radical change has taken place in the material used. Dress for evening

wear, especially among young men, no longer consists of the heavy, stiff

broadcloths and doeskins, but is now made of fine diagonals, of an almost

silky texture.

This is the body-coat above all others. Much care should be given the

fitting and style. They are made now with shawl collar, and silk lined.

Never wear any kind of binding on the body-coat. Do not wear buttons and

buttonholes on the sleeve of body-coat. The styles, changing each year,

should be followed minutely.

In evening dress one must appear a gentleman, if it is in him at all.

_The Waistcoat._—Materials used, same as body-coat, or white silks and

black silks. Patterns selected as taste directs. Of course the waistcoat

is confined strictly to black or white.

It may be three or four buttons; double or single breasted. It may be low

or high. Never wear linen waistcoats for evening dress.

_The Trousers._—Black, and always the same material as the body-coat. As

much care is given to the set and fit, as to that of the body-coat. Leave

out pockets. Wide, black, silk-braided braid is worn on the outside of

trouser-legs. Width of legs, medium.

_The Cowes or Tuxedo Body-coat._—This is for informal evening and home

wear. It is made of the same material as the dress body-coat. Shawl

collar. The same things are worn with it as with the dress body-coat. It

is worn at home, to informal dinners, the club, and the theater.

For Sunday evenings this is worn in place of the dress body-coat, with

dress waistcoat, dress trousers, and black satin cravat. Again, only the

top-hat is worn with the Tuxedo body-coat.

_Knee-Breeches._—These may be worn in place of dress trousers at any

grand ball, reception, or soirée. They are black silk or black satin, or

same material as dress body-coat.

In Paris and London they are much worn. Patent leather pumps and black

silk stockings are worn. This is the only change in evening dress, when

knee-breeches are worn.

Of course, in this attire you must always drive in a closed carriage.

Flowered or figured colored waistcoats, double or single breasted, may

be worn; white or black preferred. The dress body-coats may also be in

colors as well as black. An elegant attire, such as this, is to be worn

for grand formal evening dress.

[Illustration]

THE OVERCOAT

_Greatcoat._—This is a heavy greatcoat, with or without a cape, as

fashion or taste may decide. Double or single breasted, long or short. It

is worn during the day only, either over morning wear or afternoon dress.

It is most fashionable and elegant when made of some black or dark blue

material.

The very latest in this greatcoat is made thus: very long—five inches

below knee—no fit, without seam in middle of back—broad shawl collar of

black velvet, single-breasted, dark blue box-cloth. It is shoulder-lined

with black silk. For afternoon dress wear only.

One may follow his own taste in selecting a material for this day

greatcoat.

This is made to wear during the coldest weather. It should be removed

immediately on going indoors.

_Light Overcoat._—For fall and spring wear. This is box cut, made of a

light weight material.

The overcoat for cool days and evening wear, as over evening dress in

summer, is of some selected black material. The day overcoat or afternoon

walking-coat is of some light pattern, selected according to taste of

wearer. These overcoats are now cut very short.

These overcoats are worn over morning wear or afternoon dress,

particularly the light shades over the latter.

_Driving Overcoat._—This is a box-coat cut long or short. Double or

single-breasted. The color should be light, as it will not show dust.

Heavy material is used for winter and light for summer driving.

_The Riding Top-coat._—This is a short English box-coat. The material is

soft and of medium weight. The color may be light or dark.

_The Raglan._—“Lord Chumly,” Inverness, or sleeveless, greatcoat for

evening wear.

This is the only greatcoat to wear over evening dress.

It is always black, and with a large, full-length cape.

There are no sleeves, the cape covering the arms completely.

This is the perfect greatcoat to wear over evening dress, as removing and

placing on can be accomplished without disturbing in any way the dress.

This greatcoat makes up for the ugliness of the day overcoats in the

graceful appearance it gives the wearer.

It is worn at night only, in the carriage, or on the street. It is

removed on going indoors.

Ulsters, fur greatcoats, and greatcoats with fur collars and cuffs, may

be worn for very cold weather. They are for day wear only.

_The Mackintosh._—This is made in any pattern; the inner lining being

rubber. With or without cape. Double or single breasted. Light weights

for summer and heavy for winter wear.

It is worn by day only. It may be worn with morning wear or afternoon

dress. In the latter a top-hat should never be worn with a mackintosh.

Only a derby is worn.

In all cloudy, damp, or wet weather the mackintosh appears.

It is not necessary to carry an umbrella.

The mackintosh should be worn very long, and rather loose in fit.

* * * * *

You may follow the fashion-plate as regards the style your greatcoat or

overcoat is to be made in.

You will discuss with your cutter the correct thing in seams, linings,

buttons, and pockets. These things are constantly changing, and therefore

have no fixed rule.

Covered buttons are worn only on light walking overcoats and evening

greatcoats.

[Illustration]

ATTIRE FOR RIDING, DRIVING, TRAVELING, YACHTING, AND LOUNGING

RIDING

_The Head._—Black derby for winter. Brown derby for summer.

A cord is attached to the hat, which may be loosened and made fast to a

body-coat button.

Same style of derby as that used for morning wear. The silk hat may be

worn for formal riding when without the top-coat.

_The Hand._—Dark tan gloves or gauntlets, same as morning wear.

_The Foot._—Riding boots or shoes are worn, according to taste of wearer.

The leathers used are patent or enamel.

Spurs of nickel or silver plate are worn.

The crop is always carried. This is silver mounted, and any selected wood.

_The Body._—A four-button, single-breasted cutaway of any selected

material and pattern—not black—is the proper body-coat. Very short

skirts. Waistcoat same, or selected material. High cut; single-breasted.

_Trousers._—They may be long, with straps.

They may be short—just below knee—buttoned at side and baggy above knee.

Riding boots or leggings are worn with the knee-breeches, while with the

trousers laced shoes are worn. The leggings are made to button, strap, or

hook. The most stylish leggings are of the same material as the breeches.

Trousers or breeches should be of some light pattern; material should be

strong. They are lined on the seat and inner side of legs with chamois

skin.

For evening rides, as in academies, the black silk top-hat, white suéde

gloves, single-breasted, black, cutaway body-coat, and strap trousers of

the same material. Spurs and crop may be worn.

For elderly men the black body-coat and strap trousers may be worn during

the day.

DRIVING

Morning wear is worn for morning drives.

Afternoon drives, if formal, afternoon dress is worn.

The same rule holds good when you handle the ribbons, as when the

coachman occupies the box.

The driving overcoat is only worn in the box seat.

TRAVELING

Morning wear is the proper dress for all travel, be it on ocean or land.

Sack suits, double or single breasted, are exceedingly stylish and

comfortable. Dark colored material is doubtless the best, as it does

not show the dust and wear of travel. Heavy cloths for winter and light

weights for summer travel.

YACHTING

This is worn on board ship any time of year. For visiting on shore, a

day or so, it may be worn, if your temporary home is the yacht. Heavy

material for winter, and light weights for summer.

_Head._—The proper head apparel is the yachting cap. This may be made in

white or blue flannel, serge, or white canvas.

The yachting cap is for morning, afternoon, or evening wear, in port or

at sea.

_The Hand._—For all formal affairs on board ship, white suéde gloves

are worn. In winter or summer, tan kid gloves may be worn with yachting

attire.

_Foot._—Either a blue or white canvas laced shoe or tie, with rubber

soles, for day wear.

For summer evening wear, white suéde or canvas ties. For the same in

winter, evening dress-shoes.

_Body._—For day wear, the double-breasted, sack body-coat. This may be

blue or white flannel, or serges in blue or white. Brass buttons are

generally used.

_Waistcoat._—This may match the body-coat in material and color, and cut,

or not, as the wearer desires.

_Trousers._—These always match the body-coat in material and color.

White canvas suits may be worn, but they are coarse and clumsy.

White trousers may also be worn with a blue body-coat.

* * * * *

For formal occasions, evening wear on a yacht consists of evening dress,

as on land.

The silk negligé shirt is worn for day wear, if preferred to linen.

The ties for day wear are four-in-hands and cravats, self-tying.

These are in silk, either white, black, or blue, flowered, figured, or

solid colors.

De Joinvilles, also, tied in bow knots, are worn.

LOUNGING

This dress belongs strictly to the summer months; it is never worn in the

city.

_The Head._—For day wear there is the white split straw, with white or

black silk bands.

Also, the yachting cap, in white or black. This is made of flannel, or a

material matching the lounging suit.

These hats are worn for tennis, walking, driving, riding, day receptions,

lawn parties, etc. However, these hats are never to be worn in the city.

_The Hand._—White suéde gloves are worn with lounging suits, when walking

or driving.

_The Foot._—White canvas, white suéde, tan or white buckskin, and patent

leather ties, are worn with lounging suits.

For tennis, and games on the lawn, canvas, or suéde, or buckskin shoes,

or ties, with either felt or rubber soles, are used.

Have these shoes fit, and look as neat as possible.

_The Body._—First the material—this may be serge or flannel—though the

latter is out, for the reason that it is more heating than serge—these

are always full white.

It consists of a long or short sack body-coat, waistcoat, and trousers.

The body-coat may be single or double breasted.

The waistcoat may match the body-coat in cut and material or not. Fancy

patterns may be used.

Trousers are always the same material and color as the body-coat.

Have the cut loose, and almost flowing.

The trousers may have a stripe at the side. No pockets.

Lounging suits may also be made up in some selected pattern, as small

checks or narrow black stripes. But there is nothing so rich as the solid

white lounging suit.

The sash or kummerbund.—The length is from four to five yards. Always tie

your sash—never wear those cheap, common made-ups.

A sash may be worn any time of day. The material is always silk. Never

wear any but solid colors. Black silks and white silks are the most

elegant and correct.

Sashes of maroon or dark blue are sometimes worn. The ends hang over the

left hip, and should be evenly tied. The sash is worn with a lounging

suit, morning wear, afternoon dress, and evening dress.

The white sash is worn with a white lounging suit and evening dress only.

The negligé shirt is made of silk, or cheviots. However, this is no

longer worn by young gentlemen of fashion.

A word about this shirt—it is doubtless very comfortable, and can be worn

longer than linen, but it is not as cool as linen, nor does it look as

well about the neck.

[Illustration]

HOUSE WEAR

The formal dress is the same as that worn at any other house.

In the privacy of your rooms, however, you change this attire for

something that is loose and comfortable.

Sack body-coats of selected materials are used. The trousers are of some

black or blue material, as selected.

There is also the smoking jacket and the poker jacket—these are in many

varieties of material and pattern.

Again, we have the short and the long dressing-gowns. There are many

patterns to choose from.

Before and after the bath, the bath-robe is put on. This differs from

the silk dressing-gown in being made of Turkish toweling. No part of

man’s attire is more brilliant or beautiful than this robe. The comfort

experienced in wearing is only equaled by its delicate and beautiful

colors.

For the feet we have the slipper; this may be any leather and style your

taste desires. Slippers are also made to match the bath-robe in material

and pattern.

You must not wear any of these things out of the privacy of your own

apartments.

For a lunch at home you would wear morning wear; a reception or tea,

afternoon dress; evening affairs, evening dress.

It is as necessary—in fact, it is due—when acting the part of the host to

look your best as when you are a guest.

When you dine at home evening dress is always required.

[Illustration]

SLEEPING ATTIRE

These are pajamas—consisting of a loose fitting sack coat, and loose

fitting trousers.

The material and pattern are selected as the wearer desires.

Light weights for summer, and heavy for winter. Fine linen, silks, and

cheviots are used.

[Illustration]

LINEN AND KERCHIEFS

This consists of the white linen shirt. It should always be made to

order, if a fit is desired.

The shirt opens in front only. You may have two or three buttonholes in

the bosom.

The collar and cuffs are attached. Never wear detachable collars and

cuffs.

This shirt with the plain bosom is worn for morning wear, afternoon

dress, evening dress, or any other wear during the day. The same style of

shirt is worn winter or summer.

Very elegant shirts are made for evening dress, consisting of embroidered

bosoms or frills of linen. With each change of wear the linen should also

be changed.

At least three changes a day are made.

The style of the collar. This may be very high, or medium, as your taste

directs.

The cuffs should extend to the first thumb-joint. Cuffs are made with

round or square edges.

The high, or standing, collar is worn with morning wear, afternoon dress,

evening dress, and all other dress.

_The Handkerchief._—This is of pure white linen, with white borders.

Embroidered or not, as taste dictates.

The same style is carried with morning wear, afternoon dress, or evening

dress, or any other wear.

The upper left outside pocket is the place to carry it, except in evening

dress, when it is carried in the left or right side upper inside

waistcoat pocket.

The handkerchief of silk is carried with evening dress only. It is

carried in the right hand while dancing, and worn in the shirt front.

It may be any pattern desired. White silk is always the body, the border

only being colored.

_The neckerchief._ This is of silk, selected as to color and pattern.

This is worn around the neck with greatcoat during cold weather.

It is not a good thing to wear, as far as health goes.

It is not necessary to the stylish dresser.

A gold pin may be worn in a neckerchief.

_Waistcoat Facings._—These are seldom worn now by the dressers.

The material used is linen or silk, always white. They are cut to match

the waistcoat, opening about the tie.

Worn in winter only.

They can be worn with morning wear or afternoon dress.

[Illustration]

UNDERCLOTHING

This consists of shirt, drawers, and half-hose.

The material may be flannel, balbriggan, or silk.

White is the proper color, because it is pure and clean.

Such colors as pink, or blue, or black may be worn.

Have the drawers fit tight, or the trousers will set ill.

_Half-hose._—These should fit very tight.

They should match the shirt and drawers in material and color.

Half-hose should be in solid colors only.

Morning wear and afternoon dress. White or black is the most elegant;

other shades may be worn, if desired. They should match the underwear.

For evening dress, white or black only. White half-hose worn with white

underwear only. Black half-hose with white or black underwear only.

_Half-hose Supporters._—These are made to hold up half-hose. They are of

white silk. Other colors may be worn.

* * * * *

Underclothing should be changed at least twice a day. Silk is worn always

with evening dress. Indulge in baths as frequently as possible.

[Illustration]

THE ART OF DRESSING THE COLLAR

In ties, cravats, and scarfs we have two colors—these are the principals.

They are black, and white. With these, combined or separate, the most

elegant scarfs are made. They may be figured or flowered, or solid

colors. The materials used are silks, crêpes, satins and lawn.

The patterns—with black or white as a background—are innumerable.

Use all the taste you can command in selecting ties.

Remember that black is your principal body-coat color, and select your

ties accordingly. At the same time you must not have the color or pattern

of the tie at war with that of the waistcoat or trousers.

Never wear those flaming ties, or shades that remind you of the colored

paper sold in shops.

But a gentleman need not be cautioned in this, for he has or will acquire

taste.

Besides black or white it is permissible to wear such shades of maroon,

green, blue, violet, as are of a rich but quiet style. These are only

worn with morning wear.

_For Morning Wear._—Cravats, four-in-hands, and puff scarfs. All

self-tying. These may be black, white, or any of the before-mentioned

shades. In silks and black satin. Gold pins are worn in the scarfs. It

is the acme of ugliness to wear pins in a four-in-hand, besides being

vulgar. The four-in-hand may be tied in the regulation style or in the

form of a bow.

Never wear a made-up bow, scarf, or four-in-hand. They look cheap, and

they are vulgarly common.

Then there is the bow or cravat, tied in the regular bow-knot.

Black is the richest and most elegant color for morning wear.

The same styles are worn in summer as in winter. In summer much of the

bosom is allowed to show; while in winter it seldom or never shows,

excepting evening dress. Wherever and whenever morning wear is used, any

of these ties may be worn.

For riding, driving, traveling, yachting, and lounging, the ties for

morning wear may be worn.

Very elegant, large cravats—tied in a bow-knot, or as a four-in-hand—are

made from De Joinvilles; either in black satins or black silks, or dark

shades of silk.

The De Joinville is folded by yourself or your furnisher. It may be sewed

or not. This De Joinville cravat is for morning wear only. Always have

your ties, cravats, and scarfs made to order. This is the only way to

keep them uncommon.

_Afternoon Dress._—Here is the chance for the greatest amount of display.

Diamond pins, and large, white, puff scarfs tied and pinned in shape by

yourself, are worn with the cutaway body-coat or the frock body-coat.

In winter the large puff scarf only is worn with afternoon dress.

In summer, four-in-hands—either in bow or regular tie—as well as the puff

scarfs are worn. With a sash—a bow tied or a four-in-hand tied, its ends

placed in the opening of the bosom, is worn. A scarf may be worn with a

sash when the body-coat is not worn open.

Waistcoats should be four buttons, and body-coats cut low in collars in

order to show the beauties of the huge puff scarf now worn.

Silk is the material for the white scarf.

Satin is only allowable in black and dark shades for scarfs.

Exquisite silk or crêpe puff scarfs consisting of white background with

figures or flowers of a violet, blue, purple, maroon, etc., as your taste

directs, are worn.

Remember, simplicity for morning wear—elegance for afternoon dress.

For house wear the black silk or satin four-in-hand is the neatest tie

worn.

The Ascot form of tying a scarf is seldom used now.

_Evening Dress._—Full evening dress requires the white lawn

cravat—self-tying.

Long and wide is the most elegant.

Once or twice around may be worn. For wear with Tuxedo or Cowes

body-coat, or the dress body-coat at informal affairs, theater, club, or

home dinners, the black satin cravat—self-tying—is the proper thing. It

may be once or twice around as you like. Never wear this cravat with a

white waistcoat or white sash.

[Illustration]

WALKING STICK AND UMBRELLA

The walking stick is worn with morning wear, afternoon dress, but never

with evening dress.

The styles are ever changing. Sticks are worn in summer and winter. In

selecting sticks do not take the extremes in heavy or light. Never have

any metal but silver—it is the most elegant.

Among the best dressers and beaus of this city the walking stick is no

longer carried or worn, either with morning wear or afternoon dress. As

went the rapier so goes the walking stick.

_The Umbrella._—This is worn only in doubtful or wet weather.

It is worn at any time of day. Silver is the only proper metal. The

material should be silk or part silk. Never wear the case in the street.

[Illustration]

MISCELLANIES

_Weddings._—At morning weddings, the bridegroom wears formal afternoon

dress and pearl-gray gloves. The others wear morning dress.

Afternoon weddings, all wear afternoon dress.

Evening weddings, all wear evening dress.

_Funerals._—If in the morning, morning wear. Afternoon, afternoon dress.

Evening, evening dress. Of course, all the attire is black in this case;

the only reason for black being the demand of superstitious custom.

_Christenings._—According to the time of day it takes place. If morning,

morning wear. Afternoon, afternoon dress. Evening, evening dress.

_At Home or Church._—The dress is the same when weddings, etc., take

place at home as at church.

_Calls New Year’s._—It is not proper now to make calls on New Year’s day.

That is the only time that evening dress was ever worn before 6 P. M. It

was worn nearly all day then.

_For Mourning._—Everything worn that shows, excepting the linen, should

be black, for all times of day.

_Church Wear._—On Sunday, afternoon dress is worn at morning, afternoon,

or evening service.

On the other days of the week, morning wear, or afternoon dress, or

evening dress, according to time of service, may be worn.

_Suspenders._—These may be of silk, or any other suitable material. Silk

should always be worn with evening dress. White is the neatest color that

can be worn.

Suspenders are worn with every dress, summer or winter, with or without a

sash. Each pair of trousers should have its individual suspenders. Great

care must be used in adjusting the suspenders; if not, the trousers will

set awkwardly.

_Uppers, or Overgaiters._—This article is becoming somewhat obsolete

here. They are worn in the street only. They may be worn over any shoe or

tie. For traveling or walking only.

On entering the house they should be removed. If worn, they should always

be made the same as the trousers, in material and pattern. They spoil

the set of the trousers in the legs. They are also clumsy. They are some

protection to the trousers in muddy weather. They may be worn summer or

winter.

Uppers may be worn with morning wear, afternoon dress, or evening dress.

Black cloth uppers may be worn during the daytime as well as in the

evening.

_Attire Made to Order._—Have everything you wear made to order, when

possible.

_Blondes and Brunettes._—Blondes should prefer dark materials. Brunettes,

light materials.

_Jewelry._—The jewelry for a gentleman: Gold hunting-case watches. Gold

fob-chains and silk fobs.

A watch may be worn with any dress. Silk fob for morning wear. Gold for

afternoon and evening.

As many rings as he cares to possess. Rings are not worn with evening

dress; only in the afternoon. In fact, it is not fashionably necessary to

wear rings.

The buttons used in the shirt bosoms are of gold set with precious

stones. Diamonds are the most elegant.

Plain gold buttons are worn with morning wear.

Stonine studs or buttons, in fact all studs, are out of style.

For the sleeve or cuff: gold buttons are used for all wear.

Any number of gold pins for the scarfs. These may be plain gold or set

with precious stones; diamonds, of course, being preferable.

Simple elegance is now the rule in jewelry.

_Dressing Case._—Always have on hand a large valise or dressing case for

traveling.

It is requisite if you go out of town for a night only, it being

necessary to carry evening dress.

_Dressing Case Articles._—Articles for a dressing case are hair-brushes,

combs, whisk-brooms, cloth-brushes, hand-mirrors, manicure set, soaps,

washes and toilet lotions, wash-cloths, brushes and picks for the teeth

and gums, and shaving outfit.

_Rubbers._—Rubbers or goloshes are worn, if desired; but only while

walking in the street. It is much better to have a heavy pair of

laced-shoes for mud or snow. Of course, when there is ice on the walks,

it is necessary to wear rubbers, if you do any walking. Rubbers, when

walking, may be worn over evening dress shoes.

_Dress Shields._—These are of silk or satin. White or black.

It is for evening dress only. Only for winter weather. It is placed over

the linen bosom while _en route_.

_English Rain Attire._—An English attire for rainy weather consists of an

oiled topper—top-hat oiled with vaseline—and a long-skirted greatcoat,

with a cape. Material and pattern selected. This is worn only during the

day. Umbrella and rubbers are unnecessary.

_English Hunt Attire._—A heavy top-hat of black silk plush is worn.

Gloves, crop, and spurs.

A single-breasted, frock body-coat, green or pink, kersey. White

moleskin, loose breeches. Top riding-boots.

_Hunt Ball._—The only change is in the body-coat. This is a pink

broadcloth evening dress body-coat. A white lawn cravat and white silk

waistcoat are worn with it.

_Cloth Bands for Top-hats._—Wide black cloth bands are now worn on the

silk top-hat, afternoon or evening. For riding or driving.

_Wigs._—The wearing of wigs is a custom of the past. Whether it is to be

revived or not the future alone will show.

It is perfectly proper for a bald man to wear a wig. There is no reason

in his hiding the fact either. A young man may wear a wig if he is

prematurely bald. He certainly will make his appearance more presentable

to others by so doing.

_Opera Glass._—A gentleman may carry one to the theater or opera—evening

or afternoon. The small opera glass is most convenient.

_Decorations._—These are worn only on formal occasions. Then they should

appear on evening dress, or on afternoon dress with a frock body-coat.

Worn on the left breast.

_Fans._—These may be carried at any evening reception by a gentleman, if

he desires to so do, when there is to be dancing.

Folding fans, with a heavy black or white silk cord and tassel, are

recommended.

As a rule, fans are carried only for summer dances. A gentleman will find

it convenient and comfortable to have his own fan.

_Knee-buckles and Shoe-buckles._—These are of sterling silver. Buckles

may be worn when knee-breeches are worn.

_Trousers Crease._—This may be worn in trousers or not as taste dictates.

It certainly improves the set of the trousers, and keeps the knees

straight.

_Pockets._—These appear only in the waistcoat and body-coat. The only

things carried—morning wear, afternoon dress, and evening dress—are the

linen kerchief—including the silk when in evening dress—money, watch, and

fob chain in silk or gold, cards, pencil, silver or gold.

_The Monocle._—This is worn any time of day. Narrow black silk ribbon or

cord is worn on it for morning and afternoon. For evening a wide black

silk ribbon is used.

Wearing a monocle is an English custom.

The monocle is seldom worn in this city. When worn it is placed in the

right eye.

CLOSING REMARKS

A gentleman in ordering his apparel, whether for morning wear, afternoon

dress, or evening dress, will follow his own taste and desire as regards

the style of seams, the material and style of linings, the size, number,

and kind of buttons to be used, the number of pockets, the length of

body-coats, overcoats, length and width of trousers, the style of his

hat, gloves, and shoes, the length of sleeves and width of collars, use

of braids and bindings, use of collar facings,—in fact, every point

connected with the making of garments, both outer and under clothing,

hats, shoes, gloves, and ties, all these he must decide and order the

maker to follow out.

It is only through this care and attention to details that he can show

his taste and ability to dress. Most important of all—especially in

clothing—is the selection of material.

This completes the dress necessary for a gentleman of fashion, in society

or out. He is not asked to follow implicitly the rules as laid down here,

but rather follow his own taste and ideas in the making and wearing of

garments.

This is only meant as a guide. It is believed to be correct in all its

details, and can be followed safely as such.

_Finis coronat opus._

[Illustration]