Frier Hugo of Loubeux Verdala, by the grace of God, master of the holy
house, the hospital of S. Iohn at Ierusalem, and an humble keeper of the
poore of Iesus Christ, to all and euery prince ecclesiastical and secular,
archbishops, bishops, Dukes, Marqueses, Barons, Capteines, Vicelords,
Maiors, Castellanes, Admirals, and whatsoeuer patrons of Gallies, or other
greater officers and persons whatsoeuer, of what dignitie, degree, state
and condition soeuer they be, dwelling in all places and landes, greeting.
We make it knowne, and in the word of truth do witnesse, that in the moneth
of May last past, our gallies came on the voyage from Barbarie, where
hauing commandement to succour a little ship of the Christians which was
driuen ouer into that part being arriued vpon this Iland on the West part
they found one English ship vnder the charge of the worshipfull Iohn Keele,
and Dauid Fillie master: and our men willing to know what ship it was, they
seemed to put themselues in order for their defence, doubting that the said
our gallies were of the enemies, and therefore one mariner attempted
contrary to the will of the worshipfull Iohn Keele, and Dauid Fillie
maister: and had shot off a piece of artillerie against one of the said
gallies, and because she would not strike amaine her sayle, according to
the will of the saide worshipfull Iohn Keele, and Dauid Fillie master, the
said ship was brought backe again vnto the present port of Malta, according
to the order of the reuerend generall of the said gallies: and in being
there maister Inquisitor staid it by authoritie of the holy office, and in
that behalfe by the holinesse of our Lord pope Gregorie the thirteenth, in
the end was licenced to depart on her voyage. They therefore the said
worshipfull Iohn Keele and Dauid Fillie, in the name and behalfe of the
worshipfull master Edward Osborne and Alderman, and Richard Staper, English
marchants of the noble citie of London, haue humbly besought together with
Thomas Wilkinson the purser, pilots, master and mariners, that we would
giue our letters patents, and safe conducts, that they might goe and
returne, when they shall see opportunitie, with their goods and
marchandizes at their pleasure: whereupon the thing seeming vnto vs iust,
and that it might be for the profite of our religion, and of these
strangers, by the tenor of these presents we haue graunted the same to
them: yet, with the conditions hereunder written, viz.
That euery time the said marchants of the said ship, or with any other,
shall not bring such merchandize as is forbidden, and that sufficient
proofe and letters testimonial it appeareth that they are free from the
infections of the plague, they may vituall themselues with all necessarie
victuals, and traffike with vs, and in this Iland and dominion, and
afterwarde may depart and follow their voyage whither they will into the
Luant or else where, as all other vessels, and especially of France and
other nations do, and sell and buy whatsoeuer marchandize they shal thinke
good.
Item, that they may bring powder for cannon and harquebush, saltpeeter,
cole of Newcastle, plates of lattin, tinne, steele, yron, common karsies
white, course canuas to make saile for the gallies, balles of yron for
shot, fine milstones, trees and masts for gallies, litle and others, and in
conclusion, hauing seene that they for the time of their abode here, did
behaue themselues like faithfull and catholike Christians, and that his
holines hath allowed the safeconduct of the great Turke to them granted for
feare of the Turkish armie, and other vessels of the enemie, submitting our
selues to the pleasures of his holinesse, and especially because our people
haue occasion to passe by diuers places so farre off, as England, Flanders,
and all parts Westwards, and in other places, we haue vouchsafed to make
these our letters patents, as our faithfull assistant, so as more surely,
and with let they may go and returne when they shall thinke good, with the
said ship or with others at their pleasure. We therefore pray all and euery
of your subiects effectually that by what part soeuer of your iurisdiction,
vnto the which the said worshipful Iohn Keele and Daniel Fillie by name
abouesaid, with the ship and mariners of the said principall place or
other, shall haue accesse, saile, and passe, and come safely with libertie
without any disturbance or other impediment, that you giue leaue, and cause
leaue to be giuen that they may passe, stay and returne, and when they
please, depart, in such sort, that for loue and contention the said
worshipfull Iohn Keele, with the ship and mariners haue no let, hinderance,
or retention, also that you giue all helpe and fauour, a thing worthy of
your iustice, and to vs most acceptable, to be recompenced with equall and
greater seruice, when vpon occasion it shalbe required.
And finally, we command all, and whatsoeuer religious people, and brothers
of our religion, of whatsoeuer condition, degree, and state they be, and
all other receiuers and procurators, in all and whatsoeuer our priories
deputed, and to be deputed by vertue of the holy obedience, and all our
people, and all that are subiect to the iurisdiction of our religion, that
in, and by the same they hold, and repute the said worshipfull Iohn Keele
in the name as abouesaid, the ship, mariners, and merchandize, without let
in the same their voyage, or in any other place, that they be not molested,
not in any wise hindered, but that in all their causes and businesse they
be of you holpen, and furthered continually. In witnesse whereof, our seale
of gouernment is impressed to these presents in blacke waxe. Giuen at Malta
in our Conuent, the twelfth of the moneth of Iuly, in the yeere 1582.
* * * * *
Commission giuen by M. William Harebourne the English Ambassadour, to
Richard Foster, authorising him Consul of the English nation in the parts
of Alepo, Damasco, Aman, Tripolis, Ierusalem, &c.
I William Harborne, her Maiesties Ambassadour, Ligier with the Grand
Signior, for the affaires of the Leuant doe in her Maiesties name confirme
and appoint Richart Foster Gentleman, my Deputie and Consull in the parts
of Alepo, Damasco, Aman, Tripolis, Ierusalem and all other ports whatsoeuer
in the prouinces of Syria, Palestina, and Iurie, to execute the office of
Consull ouer all our Nation her Maiesties subiects, of what estate or
quality soeuer: giuing him hereby full power to defend, protect, and
maintaine all such her Maiesties subiects as to him shall be obedient, in
all honest and iest causes whatsoeuer: and in like case no lesse power to
imprison, punish, and correct any and all such as he shall finde
disobedient to him in the like causes, euen in such order as I myselfe
might doe by virtue to her Maiesties Commission giuen me the 26 of Nouember
1582, the copie whereof I haue annexed to this present vnder her Maiesties
Seale deliuered me to that vse. Straightly charging and commanding all her
Maiesties subiects in those parts, as they will auoid her Highnesse
displeasure and their owne harmes, to honour his authoritie, and haue due
respect vnto the same, aiding and assisting him there with their persons
and goods in any cause requisit to her Maiesties good seruice and
commoditie of her dominions. In witnesse whereof I haue confirmed and
sealed these these presents at Rapamat my house by Pera ouer against
Constantinople, to 20 of Iune 1583.
* * * * *
A letter of directions of the English Ambassadour to M. Richard Forster,
appointed the first English Consull at Tripolis in Syria.
Cousin Forster, these few words are for your remembrance when it shall
please the Almighty to send you safe arriuall in Tripolis of Syria. When it
shall please God to send you thither, you are to certifie our Nation at
Tripolis of the certaine day of your landing, to the end they both may haue
their house in a readinesse, and also meet you personally at your entrance
to accompany you, being your selfe apparelled in the best manner. The next,
second, or third day, after your comming, giue it out that you be crazed
and not well disposed, by meanes of your trauell at Sea, during which time,
you and those there are most wisely to determine in what manner your are to
present your selfe to the Beglerbi, Cadi, and other officers: who euery of
them are to be presented according to the order accustomed of others
formerly in like office: which after the note of Iohn Blanke, late
Vice-consull of Tripolis for the French, deliuered you heerewith, is very
much: and therefore, if thereof you can saue any thing, I pray you doe it,
as I doubt not but you will. They are to giue you there also another
Ianizarie according as the French hath: whose outward procedings you are to
imitate and follow, in such sort as you be not his inferour, according as
those of our Nation heeretofore with him resident can informe you. Touching
your demeanour after your placing, your [sic--KTH] are wisely to proceede
considering both French and Venetian will haue an enuious eye on you: whome
if they perceiue wise and well aduised, they will feare to offer you any
iniurie. But if they shall perceiue any insufficiencie in you, they will
not omitte any occasion to harme you. They are subtile, malicious, and
disembling people, wherefore you must alwayes haue their doings for
suspected, and warily walke in all your actions: wherein if you call for
Gods diuine assistance, as doth become euery faithfull good Christian, the
same shall in such sort direct you as he shall be glorified, your selfe
preserued, your doings blessed, and your enemies confounded. Which if
contrarywise you omit and forget, your enemies malice shalbe satisfied with
your confusion, which God defend, and for his mercies sake keepe you.
Touching any outlopers of our nation, which may happen to come thither to
traffike, you are not to suffer, but to imprison the chiefe officers, and
suffer the rest not to traffike at any time, and together enter in such
bonds as you thinke meete, that both they shall not deale in the Grand
Signiors dominions, and also not harme, during their voyage, any his
subiects shippes, vessels, or whatsoeuer other, but quitely depart out of
the same country without any harme doing. And touching those there for the
company, your are to defend them according to your priuiledge and such
commandements as you haue had hence, in the best order you may. In all and
euery your actions, at any hand, beware of rashnesse and anger, after both
which repentance followeth. Touching your dealings in their affaires of
marchandise, you are not to deale otherwise then in secret and counsell.
You are carefully to foresee the charge of the house, that the same may be
in all honest measure to the companies profit and your owne health through
moderation in diet, and at the best hand, and in due time to prouide things
needfull to saue what may be: for he that buyeth euery thing when he needed
it, harmeth his owne house, and helpeth the retailer. So as it is, in mine
opinion, wisdome to foresee the buying of all things in their natiue soile,
in due time, and at the first hand euery yeere, as you are to send the
company the particular accounts of the same expenses. Touching your selfe,
your [sic--KTH] are to cause to be employed fifty or threescore ducats,
videlicet, twenty in Sope, and the rest in Spices, whereof the most part to
be Pepper, whereof we spend very much. The Spices are to be prouided by our
friend William Barrat, and the Sope buy you at your first arriuall, for
that this shippe lading the same commodity will cause it to amount in
price. From our mansion Rapamat, the fift of September 1583.
* * * * *
A commandement for Chio.
Vobis, Beg et Cadi et Ermini, qui estis in Chio, significamus: quòd
serenissimæ Reginæ Maiestatis Angliæ orator, qui est in excelsa porta per
literas significauit nobis, quod ex nauibus Anglicis vna nauis venisset ad
portum Chico, et illinc Constantinopolim recto cursu voluisset venire, et
contra priuilegium detenuistis, et non siuistis venire. Hæc prædictus
orator significauit nobis: et petiuit a nobis in hoc negocio hoc mandatum,
vt naues Anglicæ veniant et rediant in nostras ditiones Cæsareas.
Priuilegium datum et concessum est ex parte Serenitatis Cæsareæ nostræ: et
huius priuilegij copia data est sub insigni nostro: Et contra nostrum
priuilegium Cæsareum quod ita agitur, quæ est causa? Quando cum hoc mandato
nostro homines illorum ad vos venerint ex prædicta Anglia, si nauis venerit
ad portum vestrum, et si res et merces ex naue exemerint, et vendiderint,
et tricessimam secundam partem reddiderint, et res quæ manserint
Constantinopolim auferre velint, patiantur: Et si aliquis contra
priuilegium et articulos eius aliquid ageret, non sinatis, nec vos facite:
et impediri non sinatis eos, vt rectà Constantinopolim venientes in suis
negotiationibus sine molestia esse possint. Et quicunque contra hoc
mandatum et priuilegium nostrum aliquid fecerit, nobis significate. Huic
mandato nostro et insigni fidem adhibete. In principio mensis Decembris.
* * * * *
A description of the yeerely voyage or pilgrimage of the Mahumitans, Turkes
and Moores vnto Mecca in Arabia.
Of the Citie of Alexandria.
Alexandria the most ancient citie in Africa situated by the seaside
containeth seuen miles in circuite, and is enuironed with two walles one
neere to the other with high towers, but the walles within be farre higher
than those without, with a great ditch round about the same: yet is not
this Citie very strong by reason of the great antiquitie, being almost
halfe destroyed and ruinated. The greatnesse of this Citie is such, that if
it were of double habitation, as it is compassed with a double wall, it
might be truely said, that there were two Alexandrias one builded vpon
another, because vnder the foundations of the said City are great
habitations, and incredible huge pillers. True it is, that this part
vnderneath remaineth at this day inhabitable, because of the corrupt aire,
as also for that by time, which consumeth all things, it is greately
ruinated. It might well be sayd, that the founder hereof, as he was worthy
in all his enterprises, so likewise in building hereof he did a worke
worthy of himselfe, naming it after his owne name. This Citie hath one
defect, for it is subiect to an euill ayre, which onely proceedeth of that
hollownesse vnderneath, out of the which issueth infinite moisture: and
that this is true the ayre without doth evidently testifie, which is more
subtile and holesome then that beneath. The waters hereof be salt, by
reason that the soile of it selfe is likewise so. And therefore the
inhabitants, at such time as the riuer Nilus floweth, are accustomed to
open a great ditch, the head wherof extendeth into the said riuer, and from
thence they conueigh the same within halfe a mile of Alexandria, and so
consequently by meanes of conduct-pipes the water commeth vnto the
cesternes of Alexandria, which being full serue the citie from one
inundation to another. Within the citie is a Pyramide mentioned of in
Histories, but not of great importance. Without the citie is La colonna di
Pompeio, or the pillar of Pompey, being of such height and thicknesse, that
it is supposed there is not the like in the whole world besides. Within the
citie there is nothing of importance saue a litle castle which is guarded
with 60 Ianizaries. Alexandria hath three portes, one towardes Rossetto,
another to the land ward, and the third to the sea ward, which is called
Babelbar, without which appeareth a broad Iland called Ghesira in the
Moores tongue, which is not wholy an Iland, because a litle point or corner
thereof toucheth the firme lande, and therefore may be called Peninsula,
that is to say, almost an Iland. Hereupon are builded many houses of the
Iewes, in respect of the aire. This Peninsula is situate betweene two very
good ports, one of them being much more safe then the other, called The old
port, into the which only the vessels of Barbarie, and the sixe Gallies of
the Grand Signior deputeth for the guard of Alexandria doe enter. And this
port hath vpon the right hand at the mouth or enterance thereof a castle of
small importance, and guarded but with fifteene men or thereabouts On the
other side of this Iland is the other called The new port, which name is
not vnfitly giuen vnto it, for that in all mens iudgement in times past
there hath not beene water there, because in the midst of this port, where
the water is very deepe, there are discouered and found great sepulchres
and other buildings, out of the which are dayly digged with engines Iaspar
and Porphyrie stones of great value, of the which great store are sent to
Constantinople for the ornament of the Mesquitas or Turkish Temples, and of
other buildings of the Grand Signior. Into this port enter all such vessels
as traffique to this place. This port hath on ech side a castle, whereof
that vpon the Peninsula is called Faraone, vpon the toppe whereof euery
night there is a light set in a great lanterne for direction of the ships,
and for the guard thereof are appointed 200 Ianizaries: the other on the
other side is but a litle castle kept by 18. men. It is certeine, that this
hauen of Alexandria is one of the chiefest hauens in the world: for hither
come to traffique people of euery Nation, and all sorts of vessels which
goe round about the citie. It is more inhabited by strangers, marchants,
and Christians, then by men of the countrey which are but a few in number.
[Sidenote: Fontecho signifieth an house of trafique, as the Stilyard.]
Within the citie are fiue Fontechi, that is to say, one of the Frenchmen,
where the Consul is resident, and this is the fairest and most commodious
of all the rest. Of the other foure, two belong to the Venetians, one to
the Raguseans, and the fourth to the Genoueses. And all strangers which
come to traffique there, except the Venetians, are vnder the French
Consull. It is also to be vnderstood, that all the Christians dwell within
their Fontechi, and euery euening at the going downe of the sunne, they
which are appointed for that office goe about and shut all the gates of the
saide Fontechi outward, and the Christians shut the same within: and so
likewise they doe on the Friday (which is the Moores and the Turkes
Sabboth) till their deuotions be expired. And by this meanes all parties
are secure and voide of feare: for in so doing the Christians may sleepe
quietly and not feare robbing, and the Moores neede not doubt whiles they
sleepe or pray, that the Christians should make any tumult, as in times
past hath happened.
Of the coast of Alexandria.
[Sidenote: Bichier.] On the side towardes Barbarie along the sea-coast for
a great space there is founde neither hold, nor any thing worthy of
mention: but on the other side towards Syria 13 miles from Alexandria
standeth a litle castle called Bichier kept by fiftie Turkes, which castle
is very olde and weake, and hath a port which in times past was good, but
at this present is vtterly decayed and full of sand, so that the vessels
which come thither dare not come neere the shoare, but ride far off into
the sea. [Sidenote: Rossetto] Fortie miles further is Rossetto, which is a
litle towne without walles, and is situate vpon the banke of Nilus three
miles from the sea, at which place many times they build ships and other
vessels, for gouernement whereof is appointed a Saniacbey, without any
other guard: it is a place of traffique, and the inhabitants are very rich,
but naughtie varlets and traytours. Further downe along the sea-side and
the riuer banke is another litle castle like vnto the abouesayde, and
because the Moores beleeue, that Mecca will in short time be conquered by
the Christians, they holde opinion, that the same being lost shall be
renued in this place of Rossetto, namely, that all their prayers, vowes,
and pilgrimages shall be transported to Rossetto, as the religious order of
Saint Iohn of the Rhodes is translated thence to Malta. Further forwarde
thirtie miles standes another castle of small importance called Brulles,
kept continually by fourtie Turkes, which hath a good and secure port, in
forme like to a very great lake or ponde, wherein is taken great quantitie
of fish, whith they salt, and the marchants of Candie and Cyprus come
thither to lade the same, and it is greatly esteemed, especially of the
Candiots, who hauing great abundance of wine aduenture abroad to seeke
meate fitte for the taste of the sayd wine. Distant from Brulles fiue and
thirtie miles there is anothet castle like vnto the abouesayd kept by an
Aga with fourtie men or thereabout. More within the lande by the riuers
side is Damiata an auncient citie enuironed with walles contayning fiue
miles in circuit, and but of small strength. For the gouernement of this
place is a Sanjaco with all his housholde and no other companie. This citie
is very large, delightfull, and pleasant, abounding with gardens and faire
fountaines. Other fortie miles further is Latma, a castle of very small
importance, and kept as other with fortie Turkes vnder an Aga. In this
place is no port, but a roade very daungerous, and without other
habitation. Passing this place we enter Iudea. But because our intent is to
reason simply of the voyage to Mecca, we will proceede no further this way,
but returning to our first way, let it suffice to say, that from Alexandria
to Cairo are two hundred miles, in which way I finde nothing woorthie of
memorie.
Of the mightie Citie of Cairo.
Cairo containeth in circuit eighteene miles, being so inhabited and
replenished with people, that almost it cannot receiue more; and therefore
they haue begunne to builde newe houses without the citie and about the
walles. In Cairo are people of all Nations, as Christians, Armenians,
Abexins, Turkes, Moores, Iewes, Indians, Medians, Persians, Arabians, and
other sortes of people, which resort thither by reason of the great
traffique. This citie is gouerned by a Basha, which ministreth iustice,
together with the Cadie throughout the whole kingdome. Also there are two
and twentie Saniackes, whose office is onely to ouersee and guarde the
kingdome of euery good respect. There are also seuen thousand Turkes in
pay, to wit, three thousand Ianizaries, and foure thousand horsemen: The
rest of the people in Cairo are for the most part marchants which goe and
come, and the remnant are Moores and other base people. About two miles
from Cairo there is another little Cairo called The olde Cairo, which
containeth in circuit litle more then tenne miles, and the better halfe is
not inhabited, but destroyed, whereof I neede not make any other mention.
The new Cairo answereth euery yeere in tribute to the grand Signior, 600000
ducates of gold, neat and free of all charges growing on the same, which
money is sent to Constantinople, about the fine of September, by the way of
Aleppo, alwayes by lande, vnder the custodie of three hundred horsemen, and
two hundred Ianizaries footmen. The citie of Cairo is adorned with many
faire Mesquitas rich, great, and of goodly and gorgeous building, among
which are fiue principall. The first is called Morastano, that is to say,
The hospitall, which hath of rent fiue hundred ducats of golde euery day
left vnto it by a king of Damasco from auncient times; which king hauing
conquered Cairo, for the space of fiue daies continually put the people
thereof to the sword, and in the end repenting him of so great
manslaughter, caused this cruelty to cease, and to obtaine remission for
this sinne committed, caused this hospitall to be built, enriching it as is
abouesaid. The second famous monument of Cairo is called Neffisa, of one
Neffisa buried there, who was a Dame of honour, and mooued by lust, yeelded
her body voluntarily without rewarde, to any that required the same, and
sayde she bestowed this almes for the loue of her Prophet Mahomet, and
therefore at this day they adore her, reuerence her, and finally haue
canonized her for a Saint, affirming that shee did many miracles. The third
is called Zauia della Innachari, who was one of the foure Doctors in the
law. The fourth is called Imamsciafij, where is buried Sciafij the second
Doctor of this law. Of the other two Doctors one is buried in Damasco, the
other in Aleppo. The fift and last famous monument is Giamalazar, that is,
the house of Lazarus: and this is the generall Vniuersity of the whole
kingdome of Egypt. [Sidenote: 1566.] In this place Anno 1566 in the moneth
of Ianuary by misfortune of fire were burned nine thousand bookes of great
value, as well for that they were written by hand, as also wrought so
richly with golde, that they were worth 300 and 400 ducats a piece, one
with another. And because it could neuer be knowen yet how this fire
beganne, they haue and doe holde the same for a most sinister augurie, and
an euident and manifest signe of their vtter ruine. The houses of Cairo
without are very faire, and within the greater number richly adorned with
hangings wrought with golde. Euery person which resorteth to this place for
traffiques sake, is bound to pay halfe a duckat, except the gentlemen
Venetians, Siotes, and Rhaguseans, because they are tributarie to the Grand
Signior. [Sidenote: The description of Cairo.] Cairo is distant from the
riuer Nilus a mile and more, being situate on a plaine, saue that on the
one side it hath a faire little hill, on the toppe, whereof stands a faire
castle, but not strong, for that it may be battered on euery side, but very
rich and large, compassed about with faire gardens into the which they
conueigh water for their necessitie out of Nilus, with certaine wheeles and
other like engines. This magnificent citie is adorned with very fruitfull
gardens both pleasant and commodious, with great plenty of pondes to water
the same. Notwithstanding the great pleasures of Cairo are in the moneth of
August, when by meanes of the great raine in Ethiopia the riuer Nilus
ouerfloweth apd watereth all the countrey, and then they open the mouth of
a great ditch, which extendeth into the riuer, and passeth through the
midst of the citie, and entring there are innumerable barkes rowing too and
fro laden with gallant girles and beautifull dames, which with singing,
eating, drinking and feasting, take their solace. The women of this
countrey are most beautifull, and goe in rich attire bedeked with gold,
pretious stones, and iewels of great value, but chiefely perfumed with
odours, and are very libidinous, and the men likewise, but foule and hard
fauoured. The soile is very fertile and abundant, the flesh fat which they
sell without bones, their candles they make of the marowe of cattell,
because the Moores eate the tallow. They vse also certaine litle furnaces
made of purpose, vnder the which they make fire, putting into the furnace
foure or fiue hundred egges, and the said fire they nourish by litle and
litle, vntill the chickens be hatched, which after they be hatched, and
become somewhat bigger, they sell them by measure in such sort, as we sell
and measure nuts and chestnuts and such like.
Of certaine notable monuments without the citie of Cairo.
Without the Citie, sixe miles higher into the land, are to be seene neere
vnto the riuer diuerse Piramides, among which are three marueilous great,
and very artificially wrought. Out of one of these are dayly digged the
bodies of auncient men, not rotten, but all whole, the cause whereof is the
qualitie of the Egyptian soile, which will not consume the flesh of man,
but rather dry and harden the same, and so alwayes conserueth it. And these
dead bodies are the Mummie which the Phisitians and Apothecaries doe
against our willes make vs to swallow. Also by digging in these Pyramides
oftentimes are found certaine Idoles or Images of gold, siluer, and other
mettall, but vnder the other piramides the bodies are not taken vp so whole
as in this, but there are found legges and armes comparable to the limmes
of giants. Neare to these piramides appeareth out of the sand a great head
of stone somewhat like marble, which is discouered so farre as the necke
ioyneth with the shoulders, being all whole, sauing that it wanteth a
little tippe of the nose. The necke of this head contayneth in circuit
about sixe and thirty foot, so that it may be according to the necke
considered, what greatnesse the head is of. The riuer Nilus is a mile
broad, wherein are very many great Croccodiles from Cairo vpward, but lower
than Cairo passeth no such creature: and this, they say, is by reason of an
inchantment made long since which hindereth their passage for comming any
lower then Cairo. Moreouer of these creatures there are sometimes found
some of an incredible bignesse, that is to say, of fourtie foot about. The
males haue their members like to a man, and the females like to a woman.
These monsters oftentimes issue out of the water to feede, and finding any
small beasts, as sheepe, lambes, goates, or other like, doe great harme.
And whiles they are foorth of the water, if they happen at vnawares vpon
any man, woman or childe, whom they can ouercome, they spare not their
liues. In the yeere of our Lord one thousand fiue hundred and sixtie it
happened, that certaine poore Christians trauelling by Cairo towardes the
countrey of Prete Ianni to rescue certaine slaues, were guided by a Chaus,
and iourneyed alongst the banke of the said riuer. The Chaus remained
lingering alone behinde to make his prayers (as their custome is) at a
place called Tana, whom being busie in his double deuotion one of these
Crocodiles ceazed by the shoulders, and drew him vnder water, so that he
was neuer after seene. And for this cause they haue made in sundry places
certaine hedges as bankes within the water, so that betwixt the hedge and
banke of the riuer there remaineth so much water, that the women washing
may take water without danger at their pleasure. This countrey is so
fruitfull, that it causeth the women as other creatures to bring foorth
one, two, and oft-times three at a birth. Fiue miles southwarde of Cairo is
a place called Matarea, where the balme is refined: and therefore some will
say, that the trees which beare the balme growe in the said place, wherein
they are deceiued: for the sayde trees growe two dayes iourney from Mecca,
in a place called Bedrihone, which yeeldeth balme in great plenty, but
saluage, wilde, and without vertue, and therefore the Moores carying the
same within litle chests from Bedrihone to Matarea, where the trees being
replanted (be it by vertue of the soyle, or the water, aire, or any other
thing whatsoeuer) it sufficeth that heare they beare the true balme and
licour so much in these dayes esteemed of. In this place of Matarea there
are certaine little houses, with most goodly gardens, and a chappell of
antiquity, where the very Moores themselues affirme, that the mother of the
blessed Christ fleeing from the fury of wicked Herode there saued her selfe
with the childe, wherein that saying of the Prophet was fulfilled, Ex
Ægypto vocaui fillium meum. The which Chappell in the yeare of our Lorde
one thousand fiue hundred and foure, the Magnifico Daniel Barbaro first
Consull of that place went to visite, and caused it to be renued and
reedified, so that in these dayes there resort thither many Christians, who
oftentimes bring with them a Priest, to say masse there. Also about an
Harque-buz-shotte from Matarea is a spire of great height like to that at
Rome, and more beautifull to beholde. Neere vnto the olde Cairo are yet
twelue storehouses of great antiquitie, but now very much decayed, and
these till late dayes serued to keepe corne for behoofe of the kingdome,
concerning which many are of opinion, that the founder hereof was Ioseph
the sonne of Iacob, for consideration of the seuen deare yeares. [Sidenote:
Olde Thebes.] Also passing higher vp by the banke of Nilus, there is to bee
seene a fayre Citie ouerflowed with water, the which at such time as Nilus
floweth lyeth vnder water, but when the water returneth to the marke, there
plainely appeare princely palaces, and stately pillars, being of some
called Thebes, where they say that Pharao was resident. Moroeuer three
dayes iourney higher vp are two great images of speckled marble, all whole,
and somewhat sunke into the earth, being things wonderfull to consider of,
for the nose of either is two spannes and a halfe long, and the space from
one eare to the other conteineth tenne spannes, the bodies being
correspondent to their heads, and grauen in excellent proportion, so that
they are shapes of maruellous hugenesse, and these they call The wife, and
The daughter of Pharao.
Of the patriarke of Greece.
In Cairo are two Patriarkes, one of the Greekes, and another of the
Iacobites. The Greeke Patriarke called Gioechni, being about the age of one
hundred and thirteene yeeres, was a very good and holy man. They say, that
when Soldan Gauri of Egypt reigned, there was done this miracle following;
this good patriarke being enuied at by the Iewes of the countrey, for none
other cause, but for his good workes, and holy life, it happened (I say)
that being in disputation with certaine of the Hebrewes in presence of the
Sultan, and reasoning of their lawe and faith, it was sayd vnto him by one
of these Miscreants: sith thou beleeuest in the faith of Christ, take and
drinke this potion which I will giue thee; and if thy Christ be true
Messias and true God, he will (sayd he) deliuer thee from daunger. To whom
the auncient patriarke answered, that he was content: whereupon that cursed
Iewe brought him a cuppe of the most venemous and deadly poyson that could
be found, which the holy Patriarke hauing perceiued, said: In the name of
the father, of the sonne, and of the holy Ghost: and hauing so sayde he
dranke it quite vp; which done, he tooke a droppe of pure water, putting it
into that very cup, and gaue it vnto the Iewe, saying vnto him, I in the
name of my Christe haue drunke thy poyson, and therefore in the name of thy
expected Messias drinke this water of mine within thine owne cuppe.
Whereupon the Iewe tooke the cup out of the hand of the Patriarke, and
hauing drunke the water, within halfe an houre burst a sunder. And the
Patriarke had none other hurt, saue that he became somewhat pale in sight,
and so remained euer after. And this miracle (which meriteth to be called
no lesse) was done to the great commendation of the holy Patriarke in the
presence of a thousand persons, and namely of the Soldan of Egypt: who
seeing the despight of the Iewes, vnto their owne cost and confusion
compelled them to make the conduct, which with so many engines commeth into
the castle from Nilus aboue mentioned. And this triumphant Patriarke not
long since was aliue, and in perfect health, which God continue long time.
Of the preparation of the Carouan to goe to Mecca.
As touching the Carouan which goeth to Mecca, it is to be vnderstoode, that
the Mahometans obserue a kinde of lent continuing one whole moone, and
being a moueable ceremonie, which sometimes falleth high, sometimes lowe in
the yeere called in their tongue Ramazan, and their feast is called Bairam.
During this time of lent all they which intende to goe vnto Mecca resort
vnto Cairo, because that twentie dayes after the feast the Carouan is
readie to depart on the voyage: and thither resort a great multitude of
people from Asia, Grecia, and Barbaria to goe on this voyage, some mooued
by deuotion, and some for traffiques sake, and some to passe away the time.
Nowe, within fewe dayes after the feast they which goe on the voyage depart
out of the citie two leagues vnto a place called Birca, where they expect
the Captaine of the Carouan. This place hath a great pond caused by the
inundation of Nilus, and so made that the camels and other beastes may
drinke therein: whereof, namely, of Mules, Camels, and Dromedaries there
are at least fortie thousand, and the persons which followe the Carouan
euerie yeere are about fiftie thousand, fewe more or lesse, according to
the times. Moreouer euery three yeeres they renue the Captaine of the
Carouan, called in the Arabian tongue Amarilla Haggi, that is, the Captaine
of the Pilgrimes, to whom the Grand Signior giueth euery voyage eighteene
purses, conteyning each of them sixe hundred twentie and fiue ducates of
golde, and these be for the behoofe of the Carouan, and also to doe almes
vnto the needfull pilgrimes. This Captaine, besides other seruingmen which
follow him, hath also foure Chausi to serue him. Likewise he hath with him
for the securitie of the Carouan foure hundred souldiers, to wit, two
hundred Spachi or horsemen mounted on Dromedaries, and two hundred
Ianizaries riding vpon Camels. The Chausi and the Spachi are at the charge
of the Captaine, but the Ianizaries not so, for their prouision is made
them from Cairo. The Spachi weare caps or bonnets like to the caps of
Sergeants, but the Ianizaries after another sort, with a lappe falling
downe behinde like a French-hoode, and hauing before a great piece of
wrought siluer on their heads. The charge of these is to cause the Carouan
to march in good array when neede requireth; these are not at the
commaundement of any but of the Captaine of the Carouan. Moreouer the
Captaine hath for his guide eight pilots, the office of whom is alwayes
stable and firme from heire to heire, and these goe before guiding the
Carouan, and shewing the way, as being well experienced in the place, and
in the night they gouerne them as the mariners, by the starre. [Sidenote:
Pieces of dry wood in stead of torches.] These also vse to sende before
foure or fiue men carying pieces of dry wood which giue light, because they
should not goe out of the way, and if at any time through their ill hap
they wander astray out of the way, they are caste downe and beaten with so
many bastonadoes vpon the soles of their feete, as serue them for a
perpetuall remembrance. The Captaine of the Carouan hath his Lieutenant
accompanied continually with fifteene Spachi, and he hath the charge to set
the Carouan in order, and to cause them to depart on their iourney when
neede requireth: and during the voyage their office is some whiles to goe
before with the forewarde, sometimes to come behinde with the rereward,
sometimes to march on the one side, and sometimes on the other, to spy,
that the coast be cleare. The Carouan carrieth with it sixe pieces of
ordinance drawen by 12 camels, which serue to terrifie the Arabians, as
also to make triumph at Mecca, and other places. The marchants which
followe the Carouan, some carry for marchandise cloth of silke, some
Corall, some tinne, others wheat, rise, and all sorts of graine. Some sell
by the way, some at Mecca, so that euery one bringeth something to gaine
by, because all marchandise that goeth by land payeth no custome, but that
which goeth by sea is bound to pay tenne in the hundred.
The beginning of the voyage.
The feast before the Carouan setteth forth, the Captaine with all his
retinue and officers resort vnto the castle of Cairo before the Basha,
which giueth vnto euery man a garment, and that of the Captaine is wrought
with golde, and the others are serued according to their degree. Moreouer
he deliuereth vnto him the Chisua Talnabi, which signifieth in the Arabian
tongue, The garment of the Prophet: this vesture is of silke, wrought in
the midst with letters of golde, which signifie: La illa ill'alla Mahumet
Resullala: that is to say, There are no gods but God, and his ambassadour
Mahumet. This garment is made of purpose to couer from top to botome a
litle house in Mecca standing in the midst of the Mesquita, the which house
(they say) was builded by Abraham or by his sonne Ismael. After this he
deliuereth to him a gate made of purpose for the foresaid house of Abraham
wrought all with fine golde, and being of excellent workmanship, and it is
a thing of great value. Besides, he deliuereth vnto him a couering of
greene veluet made in maner of a pyramis, about nine palmes high, and
artificially wrought with most fine golde, and this is to couer the tombe
of their prophet within Medina, which tombe is built in manner of a
pyramis: and besides that couering there are brought many others of golde
and silke, for the ornament of the sayde tombe. Which things being
consigned, the Basha departeth not from his place; but the Captaine of the
Carouan taketh his leaue with all his officers and souldiers, and departeth
accompanied with all the people of Cairo orderly in manner of a procession,
with singing, shouting and a thousand other ceremonies too long to recite.
From the castle they goe to a gate of the citie called Bab-Nassera, without
the which standes a Mosquita, and therein they lay vp the sayd vestures
very well kept and guarded. And of this ceremony they make so great
account, that the world commeth to see this sight, yea the women great with
childe, and others with children in their armes, neither is it lawfull for
any man to forbid his wife the going to this feast, for that in so doing
the wife may separate her selfe from her husband, and may lie with any
other man, in regard of so great a trespasse. Now this procession
proceeding from the castle towardes the Mosquita, the Camels which bring
the vestures are all adorned with cloth of golde, with many little belles,
and passing along the streete you may see the multitude casting vpon the
said vesture thousands of beautifull flowers of diuers colours, and sweete
water, others bringing towels and fine cloth touch the same, which euer
after they keepe as reliques with great reuerence. Afterward hauing left
the vesture in the Mosquita, as is aforesaid, they returne againe into the
citie, where they remaine the space of 20 dayes, and then the captaine
departeth with his company, and taking the vestures out of the Mosquita,
carieth the same to the foresaid place of Birca, where the Captaine hauing
pitched his tent with the standard of the grand Signior ouer the gate, and
the other principall tents standing about his, stayeth there some tenne
dayes and no more: in which time all those resort thither that meane to
follow the Carouan in this voyage to Mecca. Where you shall see certaine
women which intend to goe on this voiage accompanied with their parents and
friends mounted vpon Camels, adorned with so many tryfles, tassels, and
knots, that in beholding the same a man cannot refraine from laughter. The
last night before their departure they make great feasting and triumph
within the Carouan, with castles and other infinite deuises of fireworke,
the Ianizaries alwayes standing round about the tent of the Captaine with
such shouting and ioy, that on euery side the earth resoundeth, and this
night they discharge all their ordinance, foure or sixe times, and after at
the breake of the day vpon the sound of a trumpet they march forward on
their way.
What times the Carouan trauelleth, and when it resteth.
It is to be noted, that from Cairo to Mecca they make 40 dayes iourney or
thereabout, and the same great dayes iourneies. For the custome of the
Carouan is to trauell much and rest little, and ordinarily they iourney in
this maner: They trauell from two a clock in the morning vntill the sunne
rising, then hauing rested till noone, they set forward, and so continue
till night, and then also rest againe, as is abouesaid, till two of the
clocke; and this order they obserue vntill the end of the voiage, neuer
changing the same, except in some places, whereof we will hereafter speake,
where for respect of water they rest sometimes a day and an halfe, and this
they obserue to refresh themselues, otherwise both man and beast would die.
In what order the Carouan trauelleth.
The maner and order which the Carouan obserueth in marching is this. It
goeth diuided into three parts, to wit, the foreward, the maine battell,
and the rereward. In the foreward go the 8 Pilots before with a Chaus,
which hath foure knaues, and ech knaue carrieth a sinew of a bul, to the
end that if occasion requireth, the bastonado may be giuen to such as
deserue the same. These knaues cast offendours downe, turning vp the soles
of their feete made fast to a staffe, giuing them a perpetuall remembrance
for them and the beholders. This Chaus is as the Captaine of the foreward,
which commandeth lights to be carried before when they trauell in the
night. Also there go in this foreward 6 Santones with red turbants vpon
their heads, and these eat and ride at the cost of the Captaine of the
Carouan. These Santones when the Carouan arriueth at any good lodging,
suddenly after they haue escried the place, cry with an horrible voyce
saying, good cheare, good cheare, we are neere to the wished lodging. For
which good newes the chiefe of the company bestow their beneuolence vpon
them. In this foreward goeth very neere the third part of the people of the
Carouan, behind whom go alwayes 25 Spachi armed with swords, bowes and
arrowes to defend them from thieues. Next vnto the foreward, within a
quarter of a mile, followeth the maine battell, and before the same are
drawen the sayd sixe pieces of ordinance, with their gunners, and fifteene
Spachi Archers. And next vnto these commeth the chiefe physicion, who is an
olde man of authoritie, hauing with him many medicines, oyntments, salues,
and other like refreshings for the sicke, hauing also camels with him for
the sicke to ride on, which haue no horse nor beast. Next vnto him goeth
one Camell alone, the fairest that can be found: for with great industrie
is sought the greatest and fairest which may be found within the dominions
of the Grand Signior. This camell also is decked with cloth of golde and
silke, and carieth a little chest made of pure Legmame made in likenesse of
the arke of the olde Testament: but, as is abouesayd, made of pure Legmame,
without golde or any other thing of cost. Within this chest is the Alcoran
all written with great letters of golde, bound betweene two tables of
massie golde, and the chest during their voyage is couered with Silke, but
at their entring into Mecca it is all couered with cloth of golde adorned
with iewels, and the like at the enterance into Medina. The Camell
aforesayd which carrieth the chest, is compassed about with many Arabian
singers and musicians, alwayes singing and playing vpon instruments. After
this folow fiftene other most faire Camels, euery one carying one of the
abouesayd vestures, being couered from toppe to toe with silke. Behind
these goe twentie other Camels which carrie the money, apparell, and
prouision of the Amir el Cheggi captaine of the Carouan. After foloweth the
royall Standard of the Grand Signior, accompanied continually with the
musicians of the captaine, and fiue and twentie Spachi archers, with a
Chaus before them, and about these marueilous things goe all the people and
Camels which follow the Carouan. Behind these, lesse then a mile, foloweth
the rereward, whereof the greater part are pilgrimes: the occasion whereof
is, for that the merchants seeke alwayes to be in the foreward for the
securitie of their goods, but the pilgrimes which haue litle to loose care
not though they come behind. Behind these alwayes goe fiue and twentie
other Spachi well armed with another Chaus their captaine, and fortie
Arabians all Archers for guard of the rereward. And because the Carouan
goeth alwayes along the red sea banke, which in going forth they haue on
their right hand, therfore the two hundred Ianissaries parted into three
companies goe vpon their left hand well armed and mounted vpon Camels bound
one to another, for vpon that side is all the danger of thieues, and on the
other no danger at all, the captaine of the Carouan alwayes going about his
people, sometimes on the one side, and sometimes on the other, neuer
keeping any firme place, being continually accompanied with a Chaus and 25.
Spachi, armed and mounted vpon Dromedaries, and 8. musicians with violes in
their handes, which cease not sounding till the captaine take his rest,
vpon whom they attend, till such time as he entreth his pauillion, and then
licencing all his attendants and folowers to depart, they goe each man to
their lodging.
Of things notable which are seene in this voyage by the way.
Because in the way there are not many things found woorthy memorie, for
that the Carouan seldome resteth in places of habitation, of which in the
way there are but fewe, yea rather the Carouan resteth altogether in the
field: therefore in this our voyage wee will onely make mention of certaine
Castles found in the way, which bee these, namely Agerut, Nachel, Acba,
Biritem, Muel and Ezlem. Of which fiue the two first are kept of Moores,
and the other three of Turkes, and for guard they haue eight men or tenne
at the most in euery Castle, with foure or fiue Smerigli, which serue to
keepe the water from the Arabians, so that the Carouan comming thither may
haue wherewithall to refresh it selfe. Agerut is distant from Suez a port
of the red sea eight miles, where are alwayes resident fiue and twentie
gallies of the Grand Signior for the keeping of that Sea. Nachel is distant
from the Sea a dayes iourney. The walles of Acba are founded vpon the red
Sea banke. Biritem and Muel likewise are dashed by the waues of the Sea.
Ezlem is distant from thence aboue a dayes iourney. These fiue Castles
abouesayd are not of force altogether to defend themselues agaynst an
hundred men. The Carouan departing from Birca vntill Agerut findeth no
water by the way to drinke, neither from Agerut till Nachel, nor from
Nachel till Acba, but betweene Acba and Biritem are found two waters, one
called Agiam el Cassap, and the other Magarraxiaibi, that is to say, the
riuer of Iethro the father in lawe of Moses, for this is the place
mentioned in the second chapter of Exodus, whither it is sayd that Moses
fledde from the anger of Pharao, who would haue killed him, because hee had
slaine the Ægyptian, which fought with the Hebrew, in which place stoode
the citie of Midian; and there are yet the pondes, neere vnto the which
Moses sate downe. And from that place forward they finde more store of
water by the way, and in more places, though not so good. It is also to bee
noted, that in this voiage it is needfull and an vsuall thing, that the
captaine put his hand to his purse, in these places, and bestow presents,
garments, and turbants vpon certaine of the chiefe of the Arabians, to the
ende they may giue him and his Carouan, free passage: who also promise,
that their followers likewise shall doe no damage to the Carouan, and bind
themselues to accomplish the same, promising also by worde of mouth, that
if the Carouan bee robbed, they will make restitution of such things as are
stollen: but notwithstanding the Carouan is by them oftentimes damnified,
and those which are robbed haue no other restitution at the Arabians handes
then the shewing of them a paire of heeles, flying into such places as it
is impossible to finde them. Nowe the Carouan continuing her accustomed
iourneys, and hauing passed the abouesayd castles, and others not woorthie
mention, at length commeth to a place called Iehbir, which is the beginning
and confine of the state and realme of Serifo the king of Mecca: where, at
their approching issueth out to meete them the gouernour of the land, with
all his people to receiue the Carouan, with such shouting and triumph, as
is impossible to expresse, where they staie one whole day. This place
aboundeth with fresh and cleare waters, which with streames fall downe from
the high mountaines. Moreouer, in this place are great store of dates, and
flesh great store and good cheape, and especially laced muttons which
willingly fall downe, and here the weary pilgrimes haue cummoditie to
refresh themselues, saying, that this wicked fact purgeth them from a
multitude of sinnes, and besides increaseth deuotion to prosecute the
voiage. Touching the building in these places, it is to bee iudged by the
houses halfe ruinated, that it hath bene a magnificent citie: but because
it was in times past inhabited more with thieues then true men, it was
therefore altogether destroyed by Soldan Gauri king of Ægypt, who going on
pilgrimage vnto Mecca, and passing by this place, there was by the
inhabitants hereof some iniurie done vnto his Carauan, which he
vnderstandeng of, dissembled till his returne from Mecca, and then caused
it to bee burned and destroyed in pitifull sort for reuenge of the iniurie
done vnto the Carouan. The Carouan hauing rested and being refreshed as is
abouesayd, the next day departed on the way, and the first place they
arriue at woorthy mention is called Bedrihonem, in which place (as is
aforesayd) grow those little shrubbes whereout Balme issueth. And before
the Carouan arriueth at this place a mile from the citie is a large and
great field enuironed about with most high and huge mountaines. And in this
field, according to the Alcoran, their prophet Mahomet had a most fierce
and cruel battell giuen by the Christians of the countrey and other people
which set themselues agaynst them, and withstood his opinion, so that hee
was ouercome and vanquished of the Christians, and almost halfe of his
people slaine in the battell. Whereupon the Phrophet seeing himselfe in
such extremitie, fell to his prayers, and they say, that God hauing
compassion vpon his deare friend and prophet, heard him, and sent him
infinite thousands of angels, wherewith returning to the battell, they
conquered and ouercame the conquerour. And therefore in memorie of this
victorie, the Carouan lodgeth euery yeere one night in this place, making
great bonefires with great mirth. And they say that as yet there is heard
vpon the mountaines a litle drumme, which while the Carouan passeth, neuer
ceaseth sounding. And they say further, that the sayd drumme is sounded by
the angels in signe of that great victory graunted of God to their prophet.
Also the Mahumetan writings affirme, that after the ende of the sayd
battell, the prophet commaunded certaine of his people to goe and burie all
the Mahumetans which were dead in the fields, who going, knew not the one
from the other, because as yet they vsed not circumcision, so they returned
vnto him, answering, that they had bene to doe his commaundement, but they
knew not the Musulmans from the Christians. To whom the prophet answered,
saying. Turne againe, and all those which you shall finde with their faces
downeward, leaue them, because all they are misbeleeuers: and the other
which you shall finde with their faces turned vpward, them burie, for they
are the true Musulmani, and so his commaundement was done.
The next morning by Sunne rising, the Carouan arriueth at Bedrihomen, in
which place euery man washeth himselfe from toppe to toe, as well men as
women, and leauing off their apparell, hauing each a cloth about their
priuities, called in their tongue Photah, and another white one vpon their
shoulders, all which can goe to Mecca in this habite, doe so, and are
thought to merite more then the other, but they which cannot doe so make a
vowe to sacrifice a Ramme at the mountaine of pardons; and after they bee
washed, it is not lawfull for any man or women, to kill either flea or
lowse with their handes, neither yet to take them with their nailes, vntill
they haue accomplished their vowed orations in the mountaine of pardons
abouesayd: and therefore they cary with them certaine stickes made of
purpose in maner of a File, called in their language Arca, Cassah Guch,
with which they grate their shoulders. And so the Carouan marching, commeth
within two miles of Mecca, where they rest that night. In the morning at
the breake of day, with all pompe possible they set forward toward Mecca,
and drawing neere thereunto, the Seripho issueth foorth of the citie with
his guard, accompanied with an infinite number of people, shouting, and
making great triumph. And being come out of the citie a boweshoote into a
faire field, where a great multitude of tents are pitched, and in the
middest the pauillion of the captaine, who meeting with the Serifo, after
salutations on each side, they light from their horses and enter the
pauillion, where the king of Mecca depriueth himselfe of all authoritie and
power, and committeth the same to the aboue named captaine, giuing him full
licence and authoritie to commaund, gouerne, and minister Justice during
his aboad in Mecca with his company, and on the other side the captaine to
requite this liberalitie vsed toward him by the Serifo giueth him a garment
of cloth of gold of great value, with certaine iewels and other like
things. After this, sitting downe together vpon carpets and hides they eate
together, and rising from thence with certaine of the chiefest, and taking
with them the gate abouesayd, they goe directly to the Mosxuita, attended
on but with a fewe, and being entered, they cause the olde to be pulled
downe, and put the newe couerture vpon the house of Abraham, and the olde
vesture is the eunuchs which serue in the sayde Mosquita, who after sell it
vnto the pilgrimes at foure or fiue serafines the pike: and happy doth that
man thinke himselfe, which can get neuer so litle a piece thereof, to
conserue euer after as a most holy relique: and they say, that putting the
same vnder the head of a man at the houre of his death, through vertue
thereof all his sinnes are forgiuen. Also they take away the old doore,
setting in the place the new doore, and the old by custome they giue vnto
the Serifo. After hauing made their praiers with certaine ordinarie and
woonted ceremonies, the Serifo rematneth in the citie, and the captaine of
the pilgrimage returneth vnto his pauillion.
Of the Serifo the king of Mecca.
The Serifo is descended of the prophet Mahomet by Fatma daughter of that
good prophet, and Alli husband to her, and sonne in lawe to Mahumet, who
had no issue male, saue this stocke of the Serifo, to the eldest sonne
whereof the realme commeth by succession. This realme hath of reuenues
royall, euery yeere halfe a million of golde, or litle more: and all such
as are of the prophets kinred, or descended of that blood (which are almost
innumerable) are called Emyri, that is to say, lordes. These all goe
clothed in greene, or at the least haue their turbant greene, to bee knowen
from the other. Neither is it permitted that any of those Christians which
dwell or traffique in their Countrey goe clothed in greene, neither may
they haue any thing of green about them: for they say it is not lawfull for
misbeleeuers to weare that colour, wherein that great friend the prophet of
God Mahomet was woont to be apparelled.
Of the citie of Mecca.
The Citie of Mecca in the Arabian tongue is called Macca, that is to say,
an habitation. This citie is inuironed about with exceeding high and barren
mountaines, and in the plaine betweene the sayde mountaines and the citie
are many pleasant gardens, where groweth great abundaunce of figges,
grapes, apples, and melons. There is also great abundance of good water and
fleshe, but not of bread. This citie hath no walles about it, and
containeth in circuite fiue miles. The houses are very handsome and
commodious, and are built like to the houses in Italie. The palace of the
Serifo is sumptuous and gorgeously adorned. The women of the place are
courteous, iocund, and louely, faire, with alluring eyes, being hote and
libidinous, and the most of them naughtie packes. The men of this place are
giuen to that abhominable, cursed, and opprobrious vice, whereof both men
and women make but small account by reason of the pond Zun Zun, wherein
hauing washed themselues, their opinion is, that although like the dog they
returne to their vomite, yet they are clensed from all sinne whatsoeuer, of
which sin we will hereafter more largely discourse. In the midst of the
city is the great Mosquita, with the house of Abraham standing in the very
middest thereof, which Mosquita was built in the time when their prophet
liued. It is foure square, and so great, that it containeth two miles in
circuit, that is to say, halfe a mile each side. Also it is made in maner
of a cloister, for that in the midst thereof separate from the rest, is the
abouesayd house of Abraham, also the galleries round about are in maner of
4. streetes, and the partitions which diuide the one street from the other
are pillars, whereof some are of marble, and others of lime and stone. This
famous and sumptuous Mosquita hath 99. gates, and 5. steeples, from whence
the Talismani call the people to the Mosquita. And the pilgrimes which are
not prouided of tents, resort hither, and for more deuotion the men and
women lie together aloft and beneath, one vpon another, so that their house
of praier becommeth worse sometimes then a den of thieues.
Of the house of Abraham.
The house of Abraham is also foure square, and made of speckled stone, 20.
paces high, and 40 in circuit. And vpon one side of this house within the
wall, there is a stone of a span long, and halfe a span broad, which stone
(as they say) before this house was builded, fell downe from heauen, at the
fall whereof was heard a voyce, that wheresoeuer this stone fell, there
should be built the house of God, wherein God will heare sinners. Moreouer,
they say that when this stone fell from heauen, it was not blacke as now,
but as white as the whitest snow, and by reason it hath bene so oft kissed
by sinners, it is therewith become blacke: for all the pilgrimes are bound
to kisse this stone, otherwise they cary their sinnes home with them again.
The entrance into this house is very small, made in maner of a window, and
as high from the ground as a man can reach, so that it is painful to enter.
This house hath without 31. pillars of brasse, set vpon cubike or square
stones being red and greene, the which pillars sustaine not ought els saue
a threed of copper, which reacheth from one to another, whereunto are
fastened many burning lampes. These pillars of brasse were caused to be
made by Sultan Soliman grandfather to Sultan Amurath now Emperor. After
this, hauing entred with the difficultie abouesayd, there stand at the
entrance two pillars of marble, to wit, on each side one. In the midst
there are three of Aloes-wood not very thicke, and couered with tiles of
India 1000. colours which serue to vnderproppe the Terratza. It is so
darke, that they can hardly see within for want of light, not without an
euill smell. Without the gate fiue pases is the abouesayd pond Zun Zun,
which is that blessed pond that the angell of the Lord shewed vnto Agar
whiles she went seeking water for her sonne Ismael to drinke.
Of the ceremonies of the pilgrimes.
In the beginning we haue sayd how the Mahumetans haue two feasts in the
yeere. The one they call Pascha di Ramazaco, that is to say, The feast of
fasting, and this feast of fasting is holden thirtie dayes after the feast,
wherein the Carouan trauelleth to Mecca. The other is called the feast of
the Ramme, wherin all they which are of abilitie are bound to sacrifice a
Ramme, and this they call Bine Bairam, that is to say, The great feast. And
as the Carouan departeth from Cairo, thirtie dayes after the little feast,
so likewise they come hither fiue or sixe dayes before the great feast, to
the ende the pilgrimes may haue time before the feast to finish their rites
and ceremonies, which are these. Departing from the Carouan, and being
guided by such as are experienced in the way, they goe vnto the citie
twentie or thirtie in a company as they thinke good, walking through a
streete which ascendeth by litle and litle till they come vnto a certaine
gate, whereupon is written on each side in marble stone, Babel Salema,
which in the Arabian tongue signifieth, the gate of health. And from this
place is descried the great Mosquita, which enuironeth the house of
Abraham, which being descried, they reuerently salute twise, saying, Salem
Alech Iara sul Alia, that is to say, Peace to thee, ambassadour of God.
This salutation being ended, proceeding on the way, they finde an arche
vpon their right hand, whereon they ascend fiue steps, vpon the which is a
great voyd place made of stone: after, descending other fiue steps, and
proceeding the space of a flight-shoot, they finde another arche like vnto
the first, and this way from the one arche to the other they go and come 7.
times, saying alwaies some of their prayers, which (they say) the afflicted
Agar sayd, whiles she sought and found not water for her sonne Ismael to
drinke. This ceremonie being ended, the pilgrimes enter into the Mosquita,
and drawing neere vnto the house of Abraham, they goe round about it other
seuen times, alwayes saying: This is the house of God, and of his seruant
Abraham: This done they goe to kisse the black stone abouesayd. After they
go vnto the pond Zun Zun, and in their apparell as they be, they wash
themselues from head to foote, saying, Tobah Allah, Tobah Allah, that is to
say, Pardon Lord, Pardon Lord, drinking also of that waier, which is both
mudie, filthie, and of an ill sauour, and in this wise washed and watered,
euery one returneth to his place of abode, and these ceremonies euery one
is bound to doe once at the least. But those which haue a mind to ouergoe
their fellowes, and to goe into paradise before the rest, doe the same once
a day while the Carouan remaineth there.
What the Carouan doeth after hauing rested at Mecca.
[Sidenote: The mountaine of pardons.] The Carouan hauing abode within the
citie of Mecca fiue dayes, the night before the euening of their feast, the
captaine with all his company setteth forward towards the mountaine of
pardons, which they call in the Arabian tongue, Iabel Arafata. This
mountaine is distant from Mecca 15. miles, and in the mid way thereto is a
place called Mina, that is to say, The hauen, and a litle from thence are
4. great pillars, of which hereafter we will speake. Now first touching the
mountaine of Pardons, which is rather to be called a litle hill, then a
mountain, for that it is low, litle, delightful and pleasant, containing in
circuit two miles, and enuironed round about with the goodliest plaine that
euer with mans eie could be seen, and the plaine likewise compassed with
exceeding high mountains, in such sort that this is one of the goodliest
situations in the world: and it seemeth verily, that nature hath therein
shewed all her cunning, in making this place vnder the mountaine of pardons
so broad and pleasant. Vpon the side towards Mecca there are many pipes of
water cleare, faire, and fresh, and aboue all most wholesome, falling down
into certaine vessels made of purpose, where the people refresh and wash
themselues, and water their cattel. And when Adam and Euah were cast out of
paradise by the angel of the Lord, the Mahumetans say, they came to
inhabite this litle mountaine of pardons. Also they say, that they had lost
one another, and were separated for the space of 40. yeeres, and in the end
met at this place with great ioy and gladnesse, and builded a litle house
vpon the top of this mountaine, the which at this day they call Beyt Adam,
that is to say, the house of Adam.
Of the three Carouans.
The same day that the Carouan of Cairo commeth to this place, hither come
2. Carouans also, one of Damasco, the other of Arabia, and in like maner
all the inhabitants for ten dayes iourney round about, so that at one time
there is to be seene aboue 200000. persons, and more then 300000. cattell.
Now all this company meeting together in this place the night before the
feast, the three hostes cast themselues into a triangle, setting the
mountaine in the midst of them: and all that night there is nothing to be
heard nor seene, but gunshot and fireworkes of sundry sortes, with such
singing, sounding, shouting, halowing, rumors, feasting, and triumphing, as
is wonderfull. After this, the day of the feast being come, they are all at
rest and silence, and that day they attend on no other thing, then to
sacrifice oblations and prayers vnto God, and in the euening all they which
haue horses mount thereon, and approch as nigh vnto the mountaine as they
can, and those which haue no horses make the best shift they can on foote,
giuing euer vnto the captaine of Cairo the chiefe place, the second to the
captaine of Damasco, and the third to the captaine of Arabia, and being all
approched as is abouesayd, there commeth a square squire, one of the
Santones, mounted on a camell well furnished, who at the other side of the
mountain ascendeth fiue steps into a pulpit made for that purpose, and all
being silent, turning his face towards the people he maketh a short sermon
of the tenour folowing.
The summe of the Santones sermon.
The summe of this double doctors sermon is thus much in briefe. He sheweth
them how many and how great benefits God hath giuen to the Mahumetan people
by the hand of his beloued friend and prophet Mahomet, hauing deliuered
them from the seruitude of sinne and from idolatry, in which before time
they were drowned, and how he gaue vnto them the house of Abraham wherein
they should be heard, and likewise the mountaine of pardons, by meanes
whereof they might obtaine grace and remission of their sinnes: adding,
that the mercifull God, who is a liberall giuer of all good things,
commaunded his secretarie Abraham to build him an house in Mecca, where his
successours might make their prayers vnto him and bee heard, at which time
all the mountains in the world came together thither with sufficiencie of
stones for building hereof, except that litle and low hill, which for
pouertie could not go to discharge this debt, for the which it became
sorrowful, weeping beyond all measure for the space of thirtie yeeres, at
the ende whereof the eternall God hauing pitie and compassion vpon this
poore Mountaine, saide vnto it: Weepe no more (my daughter) for thy bitter
plaints haue ascended vp into mine eares, therefore comfort thy selfe: for
I will cause all those that shall goe to visite the house of my friend
Abraham, that they shall not be absolued from their sinnes, vnlesse they
first come to doe thee reuerence, and to keepe in this place their holiest
feast. And this I haue commanded vnto my people by the mouth of my friend
and prophet Mahumet. This said, he exhorteth them vnto the loue of God, and
to prayer and almes. The sermon being done at the Sunne-setting they make
3. prayers, namely the first for the Serifo, the second for the Grand
Signior with his hoste, and the third for all the people: to which prayers
all with one voice cry saying; Amni Ia Alla, Amni Ia Alla, that is to say,
Be it so lord, be it so Lord. Thus hauing had the Santones blessing and
saluted the Mountaine of pardons, they returne the way they came vnto Mina,
whereof wee haue made mention. In returning at the end of the plaine are
the abouesaid 4. pillers, to wit, two on ech side of the way, through the
midst whereof they say it is needfull that euery one passe, saying, that
who so passeth without looseth all that merit which in his pilgrimage he
had gotten. Also from the mountaine of pardons vntill they be passed the
said pillers none dare looke backward, for feare least the sinnes which he
hath left in the mountains returne to him againe. Being past these pillers
eueryone lighteth downe, seeking in this sandy field 50. or 60. litle
stones, which being gathered and bound in an hankerchiffe they carry to the
abouesaid place of Mina, where they stay 5. dayes, because at that time
there is a faire free and franke of al custome. And in this place are other
3. pillers, not together, but set in diuers places, where (as their prophet
saith) were the three apparitions which the diuel made vnto Abraham, and to
Ismael his sonne; for amongst them they make no mention of Isaac, as if he
had neuer bene borne. So they say, that the blessed God hauing commanded
Abraham his faithfull seruant to sacrifice his first begotten Ismael, the
old Abraham went to do according to God's wil, and met with the infernall
enemie in the shape of a man, and being of him demanded whither he went, he
answered, that he went to sacrifice his sonne Ismael, as God had commanded
him. Against whom the diuel exclaiming said: Oh doting old man, sith God in
thine old age hath marueilously giuen thee this son (in whom all nations
shalbe blessed) wherefore giuing credite vnto vaine dreames, wilt thou kill
him whom so much thou hast desired, and so intirely loued. But Abraham
shaking him off proceeded on his way, whereupon the diuel seeing his words
could not preuaile with the father attempted the sonne, saying; Ismael,
haue regard vnto thyselfe betimes in this thing which is so dangerous.
Wherefore? answered the childe. Because (saith the diuel) thy doting father
seeketh to take away thy life. For what occasion, said Ismael? Because
(saith the enemie) he saith, that God hath commanded him. Which Ismael
hearing hee tooke vp stones and threw at him, saying, Auzu billahi minal
scia itanil ragini, which is to say, I defend me with God from the diuel
the offender, as who would say, wee ought to obey the commandement of God
and resist the diuel with al our force. But to returne to our purpose, the
pilgrimes during their abode there goe to visite these three pillers,
throwing away the little stones which before they gathered, whiles they
repeat the same words which they say, that Ismael said to the diuell, when
he withstoode him. From hence halfe a mile is a mountaine, whither Abraham
went to sacrifice his sonne, as is abouesaid. In this mountaine is a great
den whither the pilgrims resort to make their prayers, and there is a great
stone naturally separated in the midst; and they say, that Ismael, while
his father Abraham was busie about the sacrifice, tooke the knife in hand
to prooue how it would cut, and making triall diuided the stone in two
parts. The fiue dayes being expired, the captaine ariseth with all the
Carouan, and returneth againe to Mecca, where they remaine other fiue
dayes. And while these rest, we will treat of the city and port of Grida
vpon the Red Sea.
Of Grida.
[Grida a port neere Mecca.] Therefore wee say that from Mecca to Grida they
make two small dayes iourney: and because in those places it is ill
traueiling in the day-time by reason of the great heat of the Sunne,
therefore they depart in the euening from Mecca, and in the morning before
Sunne-rising they are arriued halfe way, where there certaine habitations
well furnished, and good Innes to lodge in, but especially women ynough
which voluntarily bestowe their almes vpon the poore pilgrims: likewise
departing the next euening, the morning after, they come vnto Grida. This
citie is founded vpon the Red Sea banke, enuironed with wals and towers to
the land-ward, but through continuance of time almost consumed and wasted:
on the side to seaward it stands vnwalled. Grida hath three gates, one on
eche side, and the thirde in the midst towarde the lande, which is called
the port of Mecca, neere vnto which are 6. or 7. Turks vpon the old towers
for guard thereof with foure faulcons vpon one of the corners of the city
to the land-ward. Also to sea-ward where the wall ioyneth with the water,
there is lately made a fort like vnto a bulwarke, where they haue planted
25 pieces of the best ordinance that might be had, which are very well kept
and guarded. More outward towards the sea vpon the farthest olde tower are
other fiue good pieces with 30 men to guard them. [Sidenote: The Portugals
greatly feared in the Red Sea.] On the other side of the city at the end of
the wall there is lately builded a bulwarke strong and well guarded by a
Saniaccho with 150 Turks wel prouided with ordinance and all other
necessaries and munition, and all these fortifyings are for none other
cause then for feare and suspition of the Portugals. And if the port were
good this were in vaine: but the port cannot be worse nor more dangerous;
being all full of rocks and sands, in such wise, that the ships cannot come
neere, but perforce ride at the least two miles off. [Sidenote: Forty or
fifty rich ships arriue yeerely at Grida.] At this port arriue euery yeere
forty or fifty great shippes laden with spices and other rich marchandize
which yeeld in custome 150000 ducats, the halfe whereof goeth vnto the
Grand Signior, and the other halfe to the Serifo. And because there is none
other thing worthy mention in Grida we wil returne to our Carouan which
hath almost rested enough.
Of their going to Medina.