While I was in the prouince of Mancy, I passed by the palace of a certaine

famous man, which hath fifty virgin damosels continually attending vpon

him, feeding him euery meale, as a bird feeds her yoong ones. Also he hath

sundry kindes of meat serued in at his table, and three dishes of ech

kinde; and when the sayd virgins feed him, they sing most sweetly. This man

hath in yeerely reuenues thirty thuman of tagars of rise, euery of which

thuman yeeldeth tenne thousand tagars, and one tagar is the burthen of an

asse. His palace is two miles in circuit, the pauement whereof is one plate

of golde, and another of siluer. Neere vnto the wall of the sayd palace

there is a mount artificially wrought with golde and siluer, whereupon

stand turrets and steeples and other delectable things for the solace and

recreation of the foresayd great man. And it was tolde me that there were

foure such men in the sayd kingdome. [Sidenote: Long nailes.] It is

accounted a great grace for the men of that countrey to haue long nailes

vpon their fingers, and especially vpon their thumbes which nailes they may

fold about their hands: but the grace and beauty of their women is to haue

small and slender feet: and therefore the mothers when their daughters are

yoong, do binde vp their feet, that they may not grow great. [Sidenote:

Melistorte.] Trauelling on further towards the South, I arriued at a

certaine countrey called Melistorte, which is a pleasant and fertile place.

And in this countrey there was a certeine man called Senex de monte, who

round about two mountaines had built a wall to inclose the sayd mountaines.

Within this wall there were the fairest and most chrystall fountaines in

the whole world: and about the sayd fountaines there were most beautifull

virgins in great number, and goodly horses also, and in a word, euery thing

that could be deuised for bodily solace and delight, and therefore the

inhabitants of the countrey call the same place by the name of Paradise.

The sayd olde Senex, when he saw any proper and valiant yoong man, he would

admit him into his paradise. Moreouer, by certaine conducts he makes, wine

and milke to flow abundantly. This Senex, when he hath a minde to reuenge

himselfe or to slay any king or baron, commandeth him that is gouernor of

the sayd paradise, to bring thereunto some of the acquaintance of the sayd

king or baron, permitting him a while to take his pleasure therein, and

then to giue him a certaine potion being of force, to cast him into such a

slumber as should make him quite voide of all sense, and so being in a

profound sleepe to conuey him out of his paradise: who being awaked, and

seeing himselfe thrust out of the paradise would become so sorrowfull, that

he could not in the world deuise what to do, or whither to turne him. Then

would he goe vnto the foresaid old man, beseeching him that he might be

admitted againe into his paradise: who saith vnto him, You cannot be

admitted thither, vnlesse you will slay such or such a man for my sake, and

if you will giue the attempt onely, whether you kill him or no, I will

place you againe in paradise, that there you may remaine alwayes: then

would the party without faile put the same in execution, indeuouring to

murther all those against whom the sayd olde man had conceiued any hatred.

And therefore all the kings of the east stood in awe of the sayd olde man,

and gaue vnto him great tribute.

Of the death of Senex de monte.

And when the Tartars had subdued a great part of the world, they came vnto

the sayd olde man, and tooke from him the custody of his paradise: who

being incensed thereat, sent abroad diuers desperate and resolute persons

out of his forenamed paradise, and caused many of the Tartarian nobles to

be slaine. The Tartars seeing this, went and besieged the city wherein the

said olde man was, tooke him, and put him to a most cruell and ignominious

death. The friers in that place haue this speciall gift and prerogatiue:

namely, that by the vertue of the name of Christ Iesu, and in the vertue of

his pretious bloud, which he shedde vpon the crosse for the saluation of

mankinde, they doe cast foorth deuils out of them that are possessed. And

because there are many possessed men in those parts, they are bound and

brought ten dayes iourney unto the sayd friers, who being dispossessed of

the vncleane spirits, do presently beleeue in Christ who deliuered them,

accounting him for their God, and being baptized in his name, and also

deliuering immediatly vnto the friers all their idols, and the idols of

their cattell, which are commonly made of felt or of womens haire: then the

sayd friers kindle a fire in a publike place (whereunto the people resort,

that they may see the false gods of their neighbors burnt) and cast the

sayd idols thereinto: howbeit at the first those idols came out of the fire

againe. Then the friers sprinkled the sayd fire with holy water, casting

the idols into it the second time, and with that the deuils fled in the

likenesse of blacke smoake, and the idols still remained till they were

consumed vnto ashes. Afterward, this noise and outcry was heard in the

ayre: Beholde and see how I am expelled out of my habitation. And by these

meanes the friers doe baptize great multitudes, who presently reuolt againe

vnto their idols: insomuch that the sayd friers must eftsoones, as it were,

vnderprop them, and informe them anew. There was another terrible thing

which I saw there: for passing by a certaine valley, which is situate

beside a pleasant riuer, I saw many dead bodies, and in the sayd valley

also I heard diuers sweet sounds and harmonies of musike, especially the

noise of citherns, whereat I was greatly amazed. This valley conteineth in

length seuen or eight miles at the least; into the which whosoeuer entreth,

dieth presently, and can by no meanes passe aliue thorow the middest

thereof: for which cause all the inhabitants thereabout decline vnto the

one side. Moreouer, I was tempted to go in, and to see what it was. At

length, making my prayers, and recommending my selfe to God in the name of

Iesu, I entred, and saw such swarmes of dead bodies there, as no man would

beleeue vnlesse he were an eye witnesse thereof. At the one side of the

foresayd valley vpon a certaine stone, I saw the visage of a man, which

beheld me with such a terrible aspect, that I thought verily I should haue

died in the same place. But alwayes this sentence, the word became flesh,

and dwelt amongst vs, I ceased not to pronounce, signing my selfe with the

signe of the crosse, and neerer then seuen or eight pases I durst not

approach vnto the said head: but I departed and fled vnto another place in

the sayd valley, ascending vp into a little sand mountaine, where looking

round about, I saw nothing but the sayd citherns, which me thought I heard

miraculously sounding and playing by themselues without the help of

musicians. And being vpon the toppe of the mountaine, I found siluer there

like the scales of fishes in great abundance: and I gathered some part

thereof into my bosome to shew for a wonder, but my conscience rebuking me,

I cast it vpon the earth, reseruing no whit at all vnto my selfe, and so,

by Gods grace I departed without danger. And when the men of the countrey

knew that I was returned out of the valley aliue, they reuerenced me much,

saying that I was baptised and holy, and that the foresayd bodies were men

subiect vnto the deuils infernall, who vsed to play vpon citherns, to the

end they might allure people to enter, and so murther them. Thus much

concerning those things which I beheld most certainely with mine eyes, I

frier Odoricus haue heere written: many strange things also I haue of

purpose omitted, because men will not beleeue them vnlesse they should see

them.

Of the honour and reuerence done vnto the great Can.

I will report one thing more, which I saw, concerning the great Can. It is

an vsuall custome in those parts, that when the forsayd Can traueileth

thorow any countrey, his subiects kindle fires before their doores, casting

spices thereinto to make a perfume, that their lord passing by may smell

the sweet and delectable odours thereof, and much people come forth to meet

him. And vpon a certaine time when he was cumming towardes Cambaleth, the

fame of his approch being published, a bishop of ours with certaine of our

minorite friers and my selfe went two dayes iourney to meet him: and being

come nigh vnto him, we put a crosse vpon wood, I my selfe hauing a censer

in my hand, and began to sing with a loud voice: Veni creator spiritus. And

as we were singing on this wise, he caused vs to be called, commanding vs

to come vnto him: notwithstanding (as it is aboue mentioned) that no man

dare approach within a stones cast of his chariot, vnlesse he be called,

but such onely as keepe his chariot. And when we came neere vnto him, he

vailed his hat or bonet being of an inestimable price, doing reuerance vnto

the crosse. And immediatly I put incense into the censer, and our bishop

taking the censer perfumed him, and gaue him his benediction. Moreouer,

they that come before the sayd Can do alwayes bring some oblation to

present vnto him, obseruing the antient law: Thou shall not appeare in my

presence with an empty hand. And for that cause we carried apples with vs,

and offered them in a platter with reuerence vnto him: and taking out two

of them he did eat some part of one. And then he signified vnto vs, that we

should go apart, least the horses comming on might in ought offend vs. With

that we departed from him, and turned aside, going vnto certaine of his

barons, which had bene conuerted to the faith by certeine friers of our

order, being at the same time in his army: and we offered vnto them of the

foresayd apples, who receiued them at our hands with great ioy, seeming

vnto vs to be as glad, as if we had giuen them some great gift.

All the premisses abouewritten friar William de Solanga hath put downe in

writing euen as the foresayd frier Odoricus vttered them by word of mouth,

in the yeere of our Lord 1330. in the moneth of May, and in the place of S.

Anthony of Padua. Neither did he regard to write them in difficult Latine

or in an eloquent stile, but euen as Odoricus himselfe rehearsed them, to

the end that men might the more easily vnderstand the things reported. I

frier Odoricus of Friuli, of a certaine territory called Portus Vahonis,

and of the order of the minorites, do testifie and beare wimesse vnto the

reuerend father Guidotus minister of the prouince of S. Anthony, in the

marquesate of Treuiso (being by him required vpon mine obedience so to doe)

that all the premisses aboue written, either I saw with mine owne eyes, or

heard the same reported by credible and substantiall persons. The common

report also of the countreyes where I was, testifieth those things, which I

saw, to be true. Many other things I haue omitted, because I beheld them

not with mine owne eyes. Howbeit from day to day I purpose with my selfe to

trauell countreyes or lands, in which action I dispose myselfe to die or to

liue, as it shall please my God.

Of the death of frier Odoricus.

In the yeere therefore of our Lord 1331 the foresayd frier Odoricus

preparing himselfe for the performance of his intended iourney, that his

trauel and labour might be to greater purpose, he determined to present

himselfe vnto Pope Iohn the two and twentieth, whose benediction and

obedience being receiued, he with a certaine number of friers willing to

beare him company, might conuey himselfe vnto all the countreyes of

infidels. And as he was trauelling towards the pope, and not farre distant

from the city of Pisa, there meets him by the waye a certaine olde man, in

the habit and attire of a pilgrime, saluting him by name, and saying: All

haile frier Odoricus. And when the frier demaunded how he had knowledge of

him: he answered: Whiles, you were in India I knew you full well, yea, and

I knew your holy purpose also: but see that you returne immediatly vnto the

couer from whence you came, for tenne dayes hence you shall depart out of

this present world. Wherefore being astonished and amazed at these wordes

(especially the olde man vanishing out of his sight, presently after he had

spoken them) he determined to returne. And so he returned in perfect

health, feeling no crazednesse nor infirmity of body. And being in his

couen at Vdene in the prouince of Padua, the tenth day after the foresayd

vision, hauing receiued the Communion, and preparing himselfe vnto God,

yea, being strong and sound of body, hee happily rested in the Lord; whose

sacred departure was signified vnto the Pope aforesaid, vnder the hand of

the publique notary in these words following.

In the yeere of our Lord 1331, the 14. day of Ianuarie, Beatus Odoricus a

Frier minorite deceased in Christ, at whose prayers God shewed many and

sundry miracles, which I Guetelus publique notarie of Vtina, sonne of M.

Damianus de Porto Gruaro, at the commandement and direction of the

honorable Conradus of the Borough of Gastaldion, and one of the Councell of

Vtina, haue written as faithfully as I could, and haue deliuered a copie

thereof vnto the Friers minorites: howbeit not of all, because they are

innumerable, and too difficult for me to write.

* * * * *

The voyage of the Lord Iohn of Holland, Earle of Huntington, brother by the

mothers side to King Richard the second, to Ierusalem and Saint Katherins

mount.

[Sidenote: 1394. Froyssart.] The Lord Iohn of Holland, Earle of Huntington,

was as then on his way to Ierusalem, and to Saint Katherins mount, and

purposed to returne by the Realme of Hungarie. For as he passed through

France (where he had great cheere of the King, and of his brother and

vncles) hee heard how the king of Hungary and the great Turke should haue

battell together: therefore he thought surely to be at that iourney.

* * * * *

The voiage of Thomas lord Moubray duke of Norfolke to Ierusalem, in the

yeere of our Lord 1399. written by Holinshed, pag. 1233.

Thomas lord Moubray, second sonne of Elizabeth Segraue and Iohn lord

Moubray her husband, was advanced to the dukedome of Norfolke in the 21.

yeere of the reigne of Richard the 2. Shortly after which, hee was appealed

by Henry earle of Bullingbroke of treason; and caried to the castle of

Windsore, where he was strongly and safely garded, hauing a time of combate

granted to determine the cause betweene the two dukes, the 16. day of

September, in the 22. of the sayd king, being the yeere of our redemption

1398. But in the end the matter was so ordered, that this duke of Norfolke

was banished for euer: whereupon taking his iourney to Ierusalem, he died

at Venice in his returne from the said citie of Ierusalem, in the first

yeere of King Henry the 4. about the yeere of our redemption, 1399.

* * * * *

The Voiage of the bishop of Winchester to Ierusalem, in the sixt yeere of

the reigne of Henry the fift, which was the yeere of our Lord, 1417.

Thomas Walsingham.

Vltimo die mensis Octobris, episcopus Wintoniensis accessit ad concilium

Constanciense, peregrinaturus Hierosolymam post electionem summi pontificis

celebratam, vbi tantum valuit eius facunda persuasio, vt et excitaret

dominos Cardinales ad concordiam, et ad electionem summi pontificis se

ocyùs præpararent.

The same in English.

The last day of October the bishop of Winchester came to the Councell of

Constance, which after the chusing of the Pope determined to take his

iourney to Ierusalem: where his eloquent perswasion so much preuailed, that

he both perswaded my lords the Cardinals to vnity and concord, and also

moued them to proceed more speedily to the election of the Pope.

* * * * *

A preparation of a voyage of King Henrie the fourth to the Holy land

against the infidels in the yere 1413, being the last yere of his reigne:

wherein he was preuented by death: written by Walsingham, Fabian,

Polydore Virgile, and Holenshed.

[Sidenote: Order taken for building of ships and gallies.] In this

fourteenth and last yere of king Henries reigne a councell was holden in

the White friers in London, at the which among other things, order was

taken for ships and gallies to be builded and made ready, and all other

things necessary to be prouided for a voyage, which he meant to make into

the Holy land, there to recouer the city of Ierusalem from the infidels:

for it grieued him to consider the great malice of Christian princes, that

were bent vpon a mischieuous purpose to destroy one another, to the perill

of their owne soules, rather than to make warre against the enemies of the

Christian faith, as in conscience, it seemed to him, they were bound. We

finde, sayeth Fabian in his Chronicle, that he was taken with his last

sickeness, while he was making his prayers at Saint Edwards shrine, there

as it were, to take his leaue, and so to proceede foorth on his iourney. He

was so suddenly and grieuously taken, that such as were about him feared

least he would haue died presently: wherefore to relieue him, if it were

possible, they bare him into a chamber that was next at hand, belonging to

the Abbot of Westminster, where they layd him on a pallet before the fire,

and vsed all remedies to reuiue him. At length he recouered his speech, and

perceiuing himselfe in a strange place which he knew not, he willed to

knowe if the chamber had any particular name, whereunto answere was made,

that it was called Ierusalem. Then sayde the king, Laudes be giuen to the

father of heauen: for now I knowe that I shall die here in this chamber,

according to the prophesie of mee declared, that I should depart this life

in Ierusalem.

* * * * *

Of this intended voyage Polydore Virgile writeth in manner following.

Post haec Henricus Rex memor nihil homini debere esse antiquius, quàm ad

officium iustitiæ, quæ ad hominum vtilitatem pertinet, omne suum studium

conferre, protinùs omisso ciuili bello, quo pudebat videre Christianos omni

tempore turpitèr occupari, de republica Anglica benè gubernanda, de bello

in hostes communes sumendo, de Hierosolymis tandem aliquando recipiendis

plura destinabat, classemque iam parabat, cum ei talia agenti atque

meditanti casus mortem attulit: subito enim morbo tentatus, nulla medicina

subleuari potuit. Mortuus est apud Westmonasterium, annum agens

quadragesimum sextum, qui fuit annus salutis humanæ, 1413.

The same in English.

Afterward, King Henry calling to minde, that nothing ought to be more

highly esteemed by any man, then to doe the vtmost of his indeuour for the

performance of iustice, which tendeth to the good and benefite of mankinde;

altogether abondoning ciuill warre (wherewith he was ashamed to see, how

Christians at all times were dishonourably busied) entered into a more

deepe consideration of well gouerning his Realme of England, of waging

warre against the common enemie, and of recouering, in processe of time the

citie of Ierusalem, yea, and was prouiding a nauie for the same purpose,

whenas in the very midst of this his heroicall action and enterprise, he

was surprised with death: for falling into a sudden disease, he could not

be cured by any kinde of physicke. He deceased at Westminster in the 46

yeare of his age, which was in the yeere of our Lord, 1413.

* * * * *

The voyage of M. Iohn Locke to Ierusalem.

In my voyage to Ierusalem, I imbarked my selfe the 26 of March 1553 in the

good shippe called the Mathew Gonson, which was bound for Liuorno, or

Legorne and Candia. It fell out that we touched in the beginning of Aprill

next ensuing at Cades in Andalozia, where the Spaniardes, according to

their accustomed maner with all shippes of extraordinarie goodnes and

burden, picked a quarell against the company, meaning to haue forfeited, or

at least to haue arrested the sayd shippe. And they grew so malicious in

their wrongfull purpose that I being vtterly out of hope of any speedie

release, to the ende that my intention should not be ouerthrowen, was

inforced to take this course following. Notwithstanding this hard

beginning, it fell out so luckily, that I found in the roade a great shippe

called the Caualla of Venice, wherein after agreement made with the patron,

I shipped my selfe the 24. of May in the said yere 1553. and the 25 by

reason of the winde blowing hard and contrary, we were not able to enter

the straits of Gibraltar, but were put to the coast of Barbarie, where we

ankered in the maine sea 2. leagues from shore, and continued so vntill two

houres before sunne set, and then we weighed againe, and turned our course

towards the Straits, where we entered the 26 day aforesayd, the winde being

calme, but the current of the straites very fauourable. The same day the

winde beganne to rise somewhat, and blew a furthering gale, and so

continued at Northwest vntill we arriued at Legorne the third of Iune. And

from thence riding ouer land vnto Venice, I prepared for my voyage to

Ierusalem in the Pilgrimes shippe.

[Sidenote: The ship Fila Cauena departeth for Ierusalem. Rouigno a port in

Istria.] I John Locke, accompanied with Maister Anthony Rastwold, and

diuers other, Hollanders, Zelanders, Almaines and French pilgrimes entered

the good shippe called Fila Cauena of Venice, the 16 of July 1553. and the

17 in the morning we weighed our anker and sailed towardes the coast of

Istria, to the port of Rouigno, and the said day there came aboard of our

ship the Perceuena of the shippe named Tamisari, for to receiue the rest of

all the pilgrimes money, which was in all after the rate of 55. Crownes for

euery man for that voyage, after the rate of fiue shillings starling to the

crowne: This done, he returned to Venice.

[Sidenote: Sancta Eufemia.] The 19 day we tooke fresh victuals aboard, and

with the bote that brought the fresh provision we went on land to the

Towne, and went to see the Church of Sancta Eufemia, where we sawe the

bodie of the sayd Saint.

[Sidenote: Monte de Ancona.] The 20 day wee departed from Rouignio, and

about noone we had sight of Monte de Ancona, and the hilles of Dalmatia, or

else of Sclauonia both at one time, and by report they are 100. miles

distant from ech other, and more.

[Sidenote: Il Pomo.] The 21 we sayled still in sight of Dalmatia, and a

little before noone, we had a sight of a rocke in the midst of the sea,

called in the Italian il Pomo, it appeareth a farre off to be in shape like

a sugarloafe. [Sidenote: Sant Andrea.] Also we sawe another rocke about two

miles compasse called Sant Andrea; on this rocke is only one Monasterie of

Friers: [Sidenote: Lissa an Iland.] we sayled betweene them both, and left

S. Andrea on the left hand of vs, and we had also kenning of another Iland

called Lissa, all on the left hande, these three Ilands lie East and West

in the sea, and at the sunne setting we had passed them. [Sidenote: Lezina

Iland.] Il pomo is distant from Sant Andrea 18 miles, and S. Andrea from

Lissa ten miles, and Lissa from another Iland called Lezina, which standeth

betweene the maine of Dalmatia and Lissa, tenne miles. This Iland is

inhabited and hath great plentie of wine and frutes and hereagainst we were

becalmed.

[Sidenote: Catza. Pelagosa.] The 22. we had sight of another small Iland

called Catza, which is desolate and on the left hand, and on the right

hand, a very dangerous Iland called Pelagosa, this is also desolate, and

lyeth in the midst of the sea betweene both the maines: it is very

dangerous and low land, and it hath a long ledge of rockes lying out sixe

miles into the sea, so that many ships by night are cast away vpon them.

There is betweene Catza and Pelagosa 30 miles, and these two Ilands are

distant from Venice 400. miles. [Sidenote: Augusta.] There is also about

twelue miles eastward, a great Iland called Augusta, about 14 miles in

length, somewhat hillie, and well inhabited, and fruitfull of vines, corne

and other fruit, this also we left on the left hand: and we haue hitherto

kept our course from Rouignio East southeast. [Sidenote: Meleda. Mount Sant

Angelo.] This Iland is vnder the Signiorie or gouernement of Ragusa, it is

distant from Ragusa 50 miles, and there is by that Iland a greater, named

Meleda, which is also vnder the gouernement of Ragusa, it is about 30 miles

in length, and inhabited, and hath good portes, it lyeth by East from

Augusta, and ouer against this Iland lyeth a hill called Monte S. Angelo,

vpon the coast of Puglia in Italy, and we had sight of both landes at one

time.

The 23 we sayled all the day long by the bowline alongst the coast of

Ragusa, and towardes night we were within 7. or 8. miles of Ragusa, that we

might see the white walles, but because it was night, we cast about to the

sea, minding at the second watch, to beare in againe to Ragusa, for to know

the newes of the Turkes armie, but the winde blew so hard and contrary,

that we could not. [Sidenote: Ragusa paieth 14000. Sechinos to the Turke

yerely.] This citie of Ragusa paieth tribute to the Turke yerely fourteene

thousand Sechinos, and euery Sechino is of Venetian money eight liuers and

two soldes, besides other presents which they giue to the Turkes Bassas

when they come thither. The Venetians haue a rocke or cragge within a mile

of the said towne, for the which the Raguseos would giue much money, but

they doe keepe it more for the namesake, then for profite. This rocke lieth

on the Southside of the towne, and is called Il Cromo, there is nothing on

it but onely a Monasterie called Sant Ieronimo. The maine of the Turkes

countrie is bordering on it within one mile, for the which cause they are

in great subiection. This night we were put backe by contrarie winds, and

ankered at Melleda.

The 24 being at an anker vnder Melleda, we would haue gone on land, but the

winde came so faire that we presently set sayle and went our course, and

left on the right hand of vs the forenamed Iland, and on the left hand

betweene vs and the maine the Iland of Zupanna, and within a mile of that

vnder the maine by East, another Iland called Isola de Mezo. This Iland

hath two Monasteries in it, one called Santa Maria de Bizo, and the other

Sant Nicholo. Also there is a third rocke with a Frierie called Sant

Andrea: these Ilands are from the maine but two miles, and the channell

betweene Melleda and Zupanna is but foure or fiue miles ouer by gesse, but

very deepe, for we had at an anker fortie fathoms. The two Ilands of

Zupanno and Mezo are well inhabited, and very faire buildings, but nothing

plentie saue wine onely. This night toward sunne set it waxed calme, and we

sayled little or nothing.

The 24 we were past Ragusa 14 miles, and there we mette with two Venetian

ships, which came from Cyprus, we thought they would haue spoken with vs,

for we were desirous to talke with them, to knowe the newes of the Turkes

armie, and to haue sent some letters by them to Venice. About noone, we had

scant sight of Castel nouo, which Castell a fewe yeeres past the Turke

tooke from the Emperour, in which fight were slaine three hundred Spanish

souldiers, besides the rest which were taken prisoners, and made gallie

slaves. This Castell is hard at the mouth of a channell called Boca de

Cataro. The Venetians haue a hold within the channell called Cataro, this

channell goeth vp to Budoa, and further vp into the countrey. About sunne

set we were ouer against the hilles of Antiueri in Sclauonia, in the which

hilles the Venetians haue a towne called Antiueri, and the Turkes haue

another against it called Marcheuetti, the which two townes continually

skirmish together with much slaughter. At the end of these hils endeth the

Countrey of Sclauonia, and Albania beginneth. These hilles are thirtie

miles distant from Ragusa.

The 27 we kept our course towards Puglia, and left Albania on the left

hand. The 28. we had sight of both the maines, but we were neere the coast

of Puglia, for feare of Foystes. It is betweene Cape Chimera in Albania and

Cape Otranto in Puglia 60 miles. Puglia is a plaine low lande, and Chimera

in Albania is very high land, so that it is seene the further. Thus sayling

our course along the coast of Puglia, we saw diuerse white Towers, which

serue for sea-markes. About three of the clocke in the after noone, we had

sight of a rocke called Il fano, 48 miles from Corfu, and by sunne set we

discouered Corfu. Thus we kept on our course with a prosperous winde, and

made our way after twelue mile euery houre. Most part of this way we were

accompanied with certaine fishes called in the Italian tongue Palomide, it

is a fish three quarters of a yard in length, in colour, eating, and making

like a Makarell, somewhat bigge and thick in body, and the tayle forked

like a halfe moone, for the which cause it is said that the Turke will not

suffer them to be taken in all his dominions.

The 29 in the morning we were in sight of an Iland, which we left on our

left hande called Cephalonia, it is vnder the Venetians, and well

inhabited, with a faire towne strongly situated on a hill of which hill the

Iland beareth her name, it hath also a very strong fortresse or Castle, and

plentie of corne and wine, their language is Greek, it is distant from the

maine of Morea, thirtie miles, it is in compasse 80 miles. One houre within

night we sayled by the towne standing on the South cape of Cephalonia,

whereby we might perceiue their lights. There come oftentimes into the

creeks and riuers, the Turkes foystes and gallies where at their arriual,

the Countrey people doe signifie vnto their neighbours by so many lights,

as there are foistes or gallies in the Iland, and thus they doe from one to

another the whole Iland ouer. Aboute three of the clocke in the afternoone

the winde scanted, and wee minded to haue gone to Zante, but we could not

for that night. [Sidenote: Zante.] This Iland of Zante is distant from

Cephalonia, 12 or 14 miles, but the towne of Cephalonia, from the towne of

Zante, is distant fortie miles. This night we went but little forward.

The 30 day we remained still turning vp and downe because the winde was

contrary, and towards night the winde mended, so that we entered the

channell betweene Cephalonia, and Zante, the which chanell is about eight

or tenne miles ouer, and these two beare East and by South, and West and by

North from the other. The towne of Zante lieth within a point of the land,

where we came to an anker, at nine of the clocke at night.

[Sidenote: Iohn Locke, and fiue Hollanders goe on land.] The 31 about sixe

of the clocke in the morning, I with fiue Hollanders went on land, and

hosted at the house of Pedro de Venetia. After breakfast we went to see the

towne, and passing along we went into some of the Greeke churches, wherein

we sawe their Altares, images, and other ornaments. [Sidenote: Santa Maria

de la Croce.] This done, wee went to a Monasterie of Friers called Sancta

Maria de la Croce, these are westerne Christians, for the Greekes haue

nothing to doe with them, nor they with the Greekes, for they differ very

much in religion. There are but 2. Friers in this Friery. [Sidenote: The

tombe of M. T. Cicero.] In this Monasterie we saw the tombe that M. T.

Cicero was buried in, with Terentia Antonia, his wife. This tombe was

founde about sixe yeeres since, when the Monastery was built, there was in

time past a streete where the tombe stoode. At the finding of the tombe

there was also found a yard vnder ground, a square stone somewhat longer

then broad, vpon which stone was found a writing of two seuerall handes

writing, the one as it seemed, for himselfe, and the other for his wife,

and vnder the same stone was found a glasse somewhat proportioned like an

vrinall, but that it was eight square and very thicke, wherein were the

ashes of the head and right arme of Mar. T. Cicero, for as stories make

mention he was beheaded as I remember at Capua, for insurrection. And his

wife hauing got his head and right arme, (which was brought to Rome to the

Emperor) went from Rome, and came to Zante, and there buried his head and

arme, and wrote vpon his tombe this style M. T Cicero. Haue. [Marginal

note: Or, Aue.] Then followeth in other letters, _Et tu Terentia Antonia_,

which difference of letters declare that they were not written both at one

time. [Sidenote: The Description of the tombe.] The tombe is long and

narrowe, and deepe, walled on euery side like a graue, in the botome

whereof was found the sayd stone with the writing on it, and the said

glasse of ashes, and also another litle glasse of the same proportion,

wherein, as they say, are the teares of his friendes, and in those dayes

they did vse to gather and bury with them, as they did vse in Italy and

Spaine to teare their haire, to bury with their friendes. In the sayde

tombe were a fewe bones. After dinner we rested vntill it drew towards

euening by reason of the heat. [Sidenote: Sant Elia, but one Frier.] And

about foure of the clocke we walked to another Frierie a mile out of the

towne called Sant Elia, these are white Friers, there were two, but one is

dead, not sixe dayes since. This Frierie hath a garden very pleasant, and

well furnished with Orenges, Lemons, pomegranates, and diuers other good

fruites. The way to it is somewhat ragged, vp hill and downe, and very

stonie, and in winter very durtie. It standeth very plesantly in a clift

betweene two hilles, with a good prospect. From thence we ascended the hill

to the Castle, which is situated on the very toppe of a hill. [Sidenote:

The description of the Castle of Zante.] This Castle is very strong, in

compasse a large mile and a halfe, which being victualed, (as it is neuer

vnfurnished) and manned with men of trust, it may defende itselfe against

any Princes power. This Castle taketh the iust compasse of the hill, and no

other hill neere it, it is so steepe downe, and so high and ragged, that it

will tyre any man or euer he be halfe way vp. Very nature hath fortified

the walles and bulwarkes: It is by nature foure square, and it commandeth

the towne and porte. The Venetians haue alwayes their Podesta, or

Gouernour, with his two Counsellours resident therein. The towne is welle

inhabited, and hath great quantity of housholders. The Iland by report is

threescore and tenne miles about, it is able to make twentie thousand

fighting men. They say they have alwayes fiue or sixe hundred horsemen

readie at an houres warning. They saye the Turke hath assayed it with 100.

Gallies, but he could neuer bring his purpose to passe. It is strange to

mee how they should maintains so many men in this Iland, for their best

sustenance is wine, and the rest but miserable.

The first of August we were warned aboord by the patron, and towards

euening we set sayle, and had sight of a Castle called Torneste, which is

the Turkes, and is ten miles from Zante, it did belong to the Venetians,

but they haue now lost it, it standeth also on a hill on the sea side in

Morea. All that night we bare into the sea, because we had newes at Zante

of twelue of the Turkes gallies, that came from Rhodes, which were about

Modon, Coron, and Candia, for which cause we kept at the sea.

The second of August, we had no sight of land, but kept our course, and

about the thirde watch the winde scanted, so that we bare with the shore,

and had sight of Modon and Coron.

The third we had sight of Cauo Mattapan, and all that day by reason of

contrary windes, which blew somewhat hard, we lay a hull vntill morning.

The fourth we were still vnder the sayd Cape, and so continued that day,

and towardes night there grewe a contention in the ship amongst the

Hollanders, and it had like to haue bene a great inconuenience, for we had

all our weapons, yea euen our kniues, taken from vs that night.

The fift, we sayled by the Bowline, and out of the toppe we had sight of

the Iland of Candia, and towardes noone we might see it plaine, and towards

night the winde waxed calme.

The sixt toward the breake of day we saw two small Ilands called Gozi, and

towards noone we were betweene them: the one of these Ilands is fifteene

miles about, and the other 10. miles. In those Ilands are nourished store

of cattell for butter and cheese. There are to the number of fiftie or

sixtie inhabitants, which are Greekes, and they liue chiefly on milke and

cheese. The Iland of Candia is 700 miles about, it is in length, from Cape

Spada, to Cape Salomon, 300 miles, it is as they say, able to make one

hundred thousand fighting men. We sayled betweene the Gozi, and Candia, and

they are distant from Candia 5 or 6 miles. The Candiots are strong men, and

very good archers, and shoot neere the marke. This Ilande is from Zante 300

miles.

The seuenth we sayled all along the sayd Iland with little winde and

vnstable, and the eight day towards night we drew to the East end of the

Iland.

The 9 and 10 we sayled along with a prosperous winde and saw no land.

The 11 in the morning, we had sight of the Iland of Cyprus, and towards

noone we were thwart the Cape called Ponta Malota, and about foure of the

clocke we were as farre as Baffo, and about sunne set we passed Cauo

Bianco, and towards nine of the clocke at night we doubled Cauo de la

gatte, and ankered afore Limisso, but the wind blew so hard, that we could

not come neere the towne, neither durst any man goe on land. The towne is

from Cauo de le gatte twelue miles distant.

The 12. of August in the morning wee went on land to Limisso: this towne is

ruinated and nothing in it worth writing, saue onely in the midst of the

towne there hath bene a fortresse, which is now decayed, and the wals part

ouerthrowen, which a Turkish Rouer with certaine gallies did destroy about

10. or 12. yeeres past. [Sidenote: Caualette is a certaine vermine in the

Island of Cyprus.] This day walking to see the towne, we chanced to see in

the market place, a great quantitie of certaine vermine called in the

Italian tongue Caualette. It is as I can learne, both in shape and bignesse

like a grassehopper, for I can iudge but little difference. Of these many

yeeres they haue had such quantitie that they destroy all their corne. They

are so plagued with them, that almost euery yeere they doe well nie loose

halfe their corne, whether it be the nature of the countrey, or the plague

of God, that let them iudge that can best define. But that there may no

default be laied to their negligence for the destruction of them, they haue

throughout the whole land a constituted order, that euery Farmor or

husbandmen (which are euen as slaues bought and sold to their lord) shall

euery yeere pay according to his territorie, a measure full of the seede or

egges of these forenamed Caualette, the which they are bound to bring to

the market, and present to the officer appointed for the same, the which

officer taketh of them very straight measure, and writeth the names of the

presenters, and putteth the sayd egges or seed, into a house appointed for

the same, and hauing the house full, they beate them to pouder, and cast

them into the sea, and by this pollicie they doe as much as in them lieth

for the destruction of them. This vermine breedeth or ingendereth at the

time of corne being ripe, and the corne beyng had away, in the clods of the

same ground do the husbandmen find the nestes, or, as I may rather terme

them, cases of the egges, of the same vermine. Their nests are much like to

the keies of a hasel-nut tree, when they be dried, and of the same length,

but somewhat bigger, which case being broken you shall see the egges lie

much like vnto antes egges, but somewhat lesser. This much I haue written

at this time, because I had no more time of knowledge, but I trust at my

returne to note more of this island, with the commodities of the same at

large.

[Sidenote: The pilgrimes going to the Greeke churches.] The 13. day we went

in the morning to the Greeks church, to see the order of their ceremonies,

and of their communion, of the which to declare the whole order with the

number of their ceremonious crossings, it were to long. Wherefore least I

should offend any man, I leaue it vnwritten: but onely that I noted well,

that in all their Communion or seruice, not one did euer kneele, nor yet in

any of their Churches could I euer see any grauen images, but painted or

portrayed. Also they haue store of lampes alight, almost for euery image

one. Their women are alwayes separated from the men, and generally they are

in the lower ende of the Church. This night we went aboord the ship,

although the wind were contrary, we did it because the patrone should not

find any lacke of vs, as sometimes he did: when as tarying vpon his owne

businesse, he would colour it with the delay of the pilgrimes.

The 14. day in the morning we set saile, and lost sight of the Island of

Cyprus, and the 15. day we were likewise at Sea, and sawe no land: and the

16. day towards night, we looked for land, but we sawe none. But because we

supposed our selues to be neere our port, we tooke in all our sailes except

onely the foresaile and the mizzen, and so we remained all that night.

The 17. day in the morning, we kept by report of the Mariners, some sixe

miles from Iaffa, but it prooued contrary. But because we would be sure,

wee made to an anker seuen miles from the shore, and sent the skiffe with

the Pilot and the master gunner, to learne the coast, but they returned,

not hauing seen tree nor house, nor spoken with any man. But when they came

to the sea side againe, they went vp a little hill standing hard by the

brinke, whereon as they thought, they sawe the hill of Ierusalem, by the

which the Pilot knew (after his iudgement) that we were past our port. And

so this place where we rode was, as the mariners sayd, about 50. mile from

Iaffa. This coast all alongst is very lowe, plaine, white, sandie, and

desert, for which cause it hath fewe markes or none, so that we rode here

as it were in a gulfe betweene two Capes.

[Sidenote: A great currant.] The 18. day we abode still at anker, looking

for a gale to returne backe, but it was contrary: and the 19. we set saile,

but the currant hauing more force then the winde, we were driuen backe,

insomuch that the ship being vnder saile, we cast the sounding lead, and

(notwithstanding the wind) it remained before the shippe, there wee had

muddie ground at fifteene fadome. The same day about 4. of the clocke, wee

set saile againe, and sayled West alongst the coast with a fresh

side-winde. [Sidenote: A Cat fallen into the sea and recouered.] It chanced

by fortune that the shippes Cat lept into the Sea, which being downe, kept

her selfe very valiauntly aboue water, notwithstanding the great waues,

still swimming, the which the master knowing, he caused the Skiffe with

halfe a dozen men to goe towards her and fetch her againe, when she was

almost halfe a mile from the shippe, and all this while the ship lay on

staies. I hardly beleeue they would haue made such haste and meanes if one

of the company had bene in the like perill. They made the more haste

because it was the patrons cat. This I haue written onely to note the

estimation that cats are in, among the Italians, for generally they esteeme

their cattes, as in England we esteeme a good Spaniell. The same night

about tenne of the clocke the winde calmed, and because none of the shippe

knewe where we were, we let fall an anker about 6 mile from the place we

were at before, and there wee had muddie ground at twelue fathome.

The 20 it was still calme, and the current so strong still one way, that we

were not able to stemme the streame: moreouer we knew not where we were,

whereupon doubting whither wee were past, or short of our port, the Master,

Pilot, and other Officers of the shippe entered into counsell what was best

to doe, wherevpon they agreed to sende the bote on lande againe, to seeke

some man to speake with all, but they returned as wise as they went. Then

we set sayle againe and sounded euery mile or halfe mile, and found still

one depth, so we not knowing where we were, came againe to an anker, seuen

or eight miles by West from the place we were at. Thus still doubting where

we were, the bote went on land againe, and brought newes that wee were

short 80 miles of the place, whereas we thought wee had beene ouershot by

east fiftie miles. Thus in these doubts we lost foure dayes, and neuer a

man in the shippe able to tell where we were, notwithstanding there were

diuerse in the shippe that had beene there before. [Sidenote: They met with

two Moores on land.] Then sayd the Pylot, that at his comming to the shore,

by chance he saw two wayfaring men, which were Moores, and he cryed to them

in Turkish, insomuch that the Moores, partly for feare, and partly for

lacke of vnderstanding, (seeing them to be Christians) beganne to flie, yet

in the end with much a doe, they stayed to speake with them, which men when

they came together, were not able to vnderstand ech other, but our men made

to them the signe of the Crosse on the sande, to giue them to vnderstand

that they were of the shippe that brought the pilgrims. Then the Moores

knowing (as al the country else doth) that it was the vse of Christians to

go to Ierusalem, shewed them to be yet by west of Iaffa. Thus we remained

ail that night at anker, and the farther west that we sayled, the lesse

water we had.

The 21 we set sayle againe and kept our course Northeast, but because we

would not goe along the shore by night, wee came to an anker in foure and

twentie fathome water. [Sidenote: The two towers of Iaffa. Scolio di Santo

Petro.] Then the next morning being the 22 we set sayle againe, and kept

our course as before, and about three of the clocke in the afternoone, wee

had sight of the two towers of Iaffa, and about fiue of the clocke, wee

were with a rocke, called in the Italian tongue, Scolio di Santo Petro, on

the which rocke they say he fished, when Christ bid him cast his net on the

right side, and caught so many fishes. This rocke is now almost worne away.

It is from Iaffa two or three mile: here before the two towers we came to

an anker. Then the pilgrimes after supper, in salutation of the holy lande,

sang to the prayse of God, Te Deum laudamus, with Magnificat, and

Benedictus, but in the shippe was a Frier of Santo Francisco, who for anger

because he was not called and warned, would not sing with vs, so that he

stood so much vpon his dignitie, that he forgot his simplicitie, and

neglected his deuotion to the holy land for that time, saying that first

they ought to haue called him yer they did beginne, because he was a Fryer,

and had beene there, and knewe the orders.

[Sidenote: A messenger departeth for Ierusalem.] The 23 we sent the bote on

land with a messenger to the Padre Guardian of Ierusalem. [Sidenote:

Mahomet is clothed in green.] This day it was notified vnto mee by one of

the shippe that had beene a slaue in Turkie, that no man might weare greene

in this land, because their prophet Mahomet went in greene. This came to my

knowledge by reason of the Scriuanello, who had a greene cap, which was

forbidden him to weare on the land.

The 24. 25. and 26 we taryed in the shippe still looking for the comming of

the Padre guardian, and the 26 at night we had a storme which lasted all

the next day.

[Sidenote: The Guardian of Ierusalem commeth to Iaffa, with the Cady, and

Subassi.] The 27 in the morning, came the Cadi, the Subassi, and the

Meniwe, with the Padre guardian, but they could not come at vs by reason of

the stormy weather: in the afternoone we assayed to send the bote on land,

but the weather would not suffer us. Then againe towards night the bote

went a shore, but it returned not that night. [Sidenote: A cloud called of

the Italians Cion most dangerous.] The same day in the afternoone we sawe

in the element, a cloud with a long tayle, like vnto the tayle of a

serpent, which cloud is called in Italian Cion, the tayle of this cloud did

hang as it were into the sea: and we did see the water vnder the sayde

cloude ascend, as it were like a smoke or myste, the which this Cion drew

vp to it. The Marriners reported to vs that it had this propertie, that if

it should happen to haue lighted on any part of the shippe, that it would

rent and wreth sayles, mast, shroudes and shippe and all in manner like a

wyth: on the land, trees, houses, in whatsoeuer else it lighteth on, it

would rent and wreth. [Sidenote: A coniuration.] These marriners did vse a

certaine coniuration to breake the said tayle, or cut it in two, which as

they say doth preuaile. They did take a blacke hafted knife, and with the

edge of the same did crosse the said taile as if they would cut it in

twain, saying these words, Hold thou Cion, eat this, and then they stucke

the knife on the ship side with the edge towards the said cloude, and I saw

it therewith vanish in lesse than one quarter of an houre. But whether it

was then consumed, or whether by vertue of the Inchantment it did vanish I

knowe not, but it was gone. Hereof let them iudge that know more then I.

This afternoone we had no winde, but the sea very stormy, insomuch that

neither cheste, pot, nor any thing else could stand in the shippe, and wee

were driuen to keepe our meate in one hand, and the pot in the other, and

so sit downe vpon the hatches to eate, for stand we could not, for that the

Seas in the very port at an anker went so high as if wee had bene in the

bay of Portugall with stormy weather. The reason is, as the Mariners said

to me, because that there meete all the waues from all places of the

Straights of Gibralter, and there breake, and that in most calmes there go

greatest seas, whether the winde blow or not.

The 28. the weather growing somewhat calme, we went on land and rested our

selues for that day, and the next day we set forward toward the city of

Ierusalem.

What I did, and what places of deuotion I visited in Ierusalem, and other

parts of the Holy land, from this my departure from Iaffa, vntill my

returne to the said port, may briefly be seene in my Testimoniall, vnder

the hand and seale of the Vicar generall of Mount Sion, which for the

contentment of the Reader I thought good here to interlace.

Vniuersis et singulis præsentes litteras inspecturis salutem in Domino

nostro Iesu Christo. Attestamur vobis ac alijs quibuscunque qualiter

honorabilis vir Iohannes Lok ciuis Londoniensis, filius honorabilis viri

Guilhelmi Lok equitis aurati, ad sacratissima terræ sanctæ loca

personaliter se contulit, sanctissimum Domini nostri Iesu Christi

sepulchrum, equo die tertia gloriosus à mortuis resurrexit, sacratissimum

Caluariæ montem, in quo pro nobis omnibus cruci affixus mori dignatus est,

Sion etiam montem vbi coenam illam mirificam cum discipulis suis fecit, et

vbi spiritus sanctus in die sancto Pentecostes in discipulos eosdem in

linguis igneis descendit, Oliuetique montem vbi mirabiliter coelos

ascendit, intemeratæ virginis Mariæ Mausoleum in Iosaphat vallis medio

situm, Bethaniam quoque Bethlehem ciuitatem Dauid in qua de purissima

virgine Maria natus est, ibique inter animalia reclinatus, pluraque loca

alia tam in Hierusalem ciuitate sancta terre Iudææ, quàm extra, à modernis

peregrinis visitari solita, deuotissimè visitauit, pariterque adorauit. In

quorum fidem, ego frater Anthonius de Bergamo ordinis fratrum minorum

regularis obseruantiæ prouinciæ diui Anthonij Sacri conuentus montis Sion

vicarius (licet indignus) necnon aliorum locorum terræ Sanctæ, apostolica

authoritate comissarius et rector, has Sigillo maiori nostri officij

nostraque subscriptione muniri volui. Datum Hierosolymis apud sacratissimum

domini coenaculum in sæpè memorato monte Sion, Anno Domini millesimo

quingentesimo, quinquagesimo tertio, die vero sexto mensis Septembris.

Frater Antonius qui supra.

[Sidenote: The pilgrims returne from Ierusalem. Mount Carmel.] The 15. of

September being come from our pilgrimage, we went aborde our shippe, and

set saile, and kept our course West toward the Island of Cyprus, but al

that night it was calme, and the 16. the winde freshed, and we passed by

Mount Carmel.

The 17. the winde was very scant, yet we kept the sea, and towards night

wee had a guste of raine whereby wee were constrained to strike our sailes,

but it was not very stormie, nor lasted very long.

The 18. 19. 20. and 21. we kept still the sea and saw no land because we

had very little winde, and that not very fauourable.

The 22. at noone the Boatswaine sent some of the Mariners into the boat,

(which we toed asterne from Iaffa) for certaine necessaries belonging to

the ship, wherein the Mariners found a certaine fish in proportion like a

Dace, about 6 inches long (yet the Mariners said they had seene the like a

foote long and more) the which fish had on euery side a wing, and toward

the taile two other lesser as it were finnes, on either side one, but in

proportion they were wings and of a good length. These wings grow out

betweene the gils and the carkasse of the same fish. [Sidenote: Pesce

columbini.] They are called in the Italian tongue Pesce columbini, for in

deede, the wings being spred it is like to a flying doue, they say it will

flie farre and very high. So it seemeth that being weary of her flight she

fell into the boate, and not being able to rise againe died there.

The 23. 24. and 25. we sailed our direct course with a small gale of winde,

and this day we had sight of the Island of Cyprus. [Sidenote: Cauo de la

Griega.] The first land that we discouered was a headland called Cauo de la

Criega, and about midnight we ankered by North of the Gape. This cape is a

high hil, long and square, and on the East corner it hath a high cop, that

appeareth vnto those at the sea, like a white cloud, for toward the sea it

is white, and it lieth into the sea Southwest. This coast of Cyprus is high

declining toward the sea, but it hath no cliffes.

The 26. we set saile againe, and toward noone we came into the port of

Salini, where we went on land and lodged that night at a towne one mile

from thence called Arnacho di Salini, this is but a village called in

Italian, Casalia. This is distant from Iaffa 250. Italian miles.

The 27. we rested, and the 28. we hired horses to ride from Arnacho to

Sulina, which is a good mile. The salt pit is very neere two miles in

compasse, very plaine and leuell, into the which they let runne at the time

of raine a quantitie of water comming from the mountaines, which water is

let in vntil the pit be full to a certaine marke, which when it is full,

the rest is conueyed by a trench into the sea. The water is let runne in

about October, or sooner or later, as the time of the yeere doth afforde.

There they let it remaine vntill the ende of Iuly or the middest of August,

out of which pits at that time, in stead of water that they let in they

gather very faire white salt, without any further art or labour, for it is

only done by the great heate of the sunne. This the Venetians haue, and doe

maintaine to the vse of S. Marke, and the Venetian ships that come to this

Island are bound to cast out their ballast, and to lade with salt for

Venice. Also there may none in all the Iland buy salt but of these men, who

maintaine these pits for S. Marke. This place is watched by night with 6.

horsemen to the end it be not stolne by night. Also vnder the Venetians

dominions no towne may spende any salt, but they must buy it of Saint

Marke, neither may any man buy any salt at one towne to carie to another,

but euery one must buy his salt in the towne where he dwelleth. Neither may

any man in Venice buy more salt then he spendeth in the city, for if he be

knowen to carte but one ounce out of the due and be accused, hee looseth an

eare. The most part of all the salt they haue in Venice commeth from these

Salines, and they have it so plentifull, that they are not able, neuer a

yeere to gather the one halfe, for they onely gather in Iuly, August, and

September, and not fully these three moneths. Yet notwithstanding the

abundance that the shippes carie away yeerely, there remaine heapes like

hilles, some heapes able to lade nine or tenne shippes, and there are

heapes of two yeeres gathering, some of three and some of nine or tenne

yeeres making, to the value of a great somme of golde, and when the ships

do lade, they neuer take it by measure, but when they come at Venice they

measure it. This salt as it lyeth in the pit is like so much ice, and it is

sixe inches thicke: they digge it with axes, and cause their slaues to cary

it to the heapes. This night at midnight we rode to Famagusta, which is

eight leagues from Salina, which is 24 English miles.

The 29 about two houres before day we alighted at Famagusta, and after we

were refreshed we went to see the towne. This is a very faire strong holde,

and the strongest and greatest in the Iland. The walks are faire and new,

and strongly rampired with foure principall bulwarkes, and bettweene them

turrions responding one to another, these walks did the Venetians make.

They haue also on the hauen side of it a Castle, and the hauen is chained,

the citie hath onely two gates, to say, one for the lande and another for

the sea, they haue in the towne continually, be it peace or warres, 800

souldiers, and fortie and sixe gunners, besides Captaines, petie Captaines,

Gouernour and Generall The lande gate hath alwayes fiftie souldiers, pikes

and gunners with their harnes, watching thereat night and day. At the sea

gate fiue and twenties upon the walles euery night doe watch fifteene men

in watch houses, for euery watch house fiue men, and in the market place 30

souldiers continually. There may no souldier serue there aboue 5 yeres,

neither will they without friendship suffer them to depart afore 5. yeres

be expired, and there may serue of all nations except Greekes. [Sidenote:

Morenigo.] They haue euery pay which is 45 dayes, 15 Morenigos, which is 15

shillings sterling. [Sidenote: Solde of Venice] Their horsemen haue only

sixe soldes Venetian a day, and prouender for their horses, but truth I

maruell how they liue being so hardly fed, for all the sommer they feede

only vpon chopt strawe and barley, for hay they haue none, and yet they be

faire, fat and seruiceable. [Sidenote: Castellani] The Venetians send euery

two yeres new rulers, which they call Castellani. The towne hath allotted

it also two gallies continually armed and furnished.

[Sidenote: Saint Katherens Chappel in old Famagusta.] The 30. in the

morning we ridde to a chappell, where they say Saint Katherin was borne.

This Chappell is in olde Famagusta, the which was destroyed by Englishmen,

and is cleane ouerthrowne to the ground, to this day desolate and not

inhabited by any person, it was of a great circuit, and there be to this

day mountaines of faire, great, and strong buildings, and not onely there,

but also in many places of the Iland. [Sidenote: Diuvers coines vnder

ground.] Moreouer when they digge, plowe, or trench they finde sometimes

olde antient coines, some of golde, some of siluer, and some of copper, yea

and many tombes and vautes with sepulchers in them. This olde Famagusta is

from the other, foure miles, and standeth on a hill, but the new towne on a

plaine. [Sidenote: Cornari, a family of Venice maried to king Iaques.]

Thence we returned to new Famagusta againe to dinner, and toward euening we

went about the towne, and in the great Church we sawe the tombe of king

Iaques, which was the last king of Cyprus, and was buried in the yere of

Christ one thousand foure hundred seuentie and three, and had to wife one

of the daughters of Venice, of the house of Cornari, the which family at

this day hath great reuenues in this Island, and by means of that mariage

the Venetians, chalenge the kingdome of Cyprus.

The first of October in the morning, we went to see the reliefe of the

watches. That done, we went to one of the Greekes Churches to see a pot or

Iarre of stone, which is sayd to bee one of the seuen Iarres of water, the

which the Lord God at the mariage conuerted into wine. It is a pot of earth

very faire, white enamelled, and faireiy wrought vpon with drawen worke,

and hath on either side of it, instead of handles, eares made in fourme as

the painters make angels wings, it was about an elle high, and small at the

bottome, with a long necke and correspondent in circuit to the botome, the

belly very great and round, it holdeth full twelue gallons, and hath a

tap-hole to drawe wine out thereat, the Iarre is very auncient, but whether

it be one of them or no, I know not. The aire of Famagusta is very

vnwholesome, as they say, by reason of certaine marish ground adioyning

vnto it. They haue also a certaine yeerely sicknesse raigning in the same

towne, aboue all the rest of the Island: yet neuerthelesse, they haue it in

other townes, but not so much. It is a certaine rednesse and paine of the

eyes, the which if it bee not quickly holpen, it taketh away their sight,

so that yeerely almost in that towne, they haue about twentie that lose

their sight, either of one eye or both, and it commeth for the most part in

this moneth of October, and the last moneth: for I haue met diuers times

three and foure at once in companies, both men and women. [Sidenote: No

vitailes must be sold out of the city of Famagusta.] Their liuing is better

cheape in Famagusta then in any other place of the Island, because there

may no kinde of prouision within their libertie bee solde out of the Citie.

The second of October we returned to Arnacho, where wee rested vntill the

sixt day. [Sidenote: Greate ruines in Cyprus.] This towne is a pretie

Village, there are thereby toward the Sea side diuers monuments, that there

hath bene great ouerthrow of buildings, for to this day there is no yere

when they finde not, digging vnder ground, either coines, caues, and

sepulcres of antiquities, as we walking, did see many, so that in effect,

all alongst the Sea coast, throughout the whole Island, there is much ruine

and ouerthrow of buildings, [Sidenote: Cyprus 36. yeres disinhabited for

lacke of water.] for as they say, it was disinhabited sixe and thirtie

yeres, before Saint Helens time for lacke of water. [Sidenote: Cypr.

ruinated by Rich. the I.] And since that time it hath bene ruinated and

ouerthrowen by Richard the first of that name king of England, which he did

in reuenge of his sisters rauishment comming to Ierusalem, the which

inforcement was done to her by the king of Famagusta.

The sixt day we rid to Nicosia, which is from Arnacho seuen Cyprus miles,

which are one and twentie Italian miles. This is the ancientest citie of

the Iland, and is walled about, but it is not strong neither of walles nor

situation: It is by report three Cyprus miles about, it is not throughly

inhabited, but hath many great gardens in it, and also very many Date

trees, and plentie of Pomegranates and other fruites. There dwell all the

Gentilitie of the Island, and there hath euery Cauallier or Conte of the

Island an habitation. [Sidenote: A fountaine that watereth al the gardens

in the citie.] There is in this citie one fountaine rented by saint Marke,

which is bound euery eight dayes once, to water all the gardens in the

towne, and the keeper of this fountaine hath for euery tree a Bizantin,

which is twelue soldes Venice, and sixpence sterling. [Sidenote: A Bizantin

is 6. d. sterling.] He that hath that to farme, with a faire and profitable

garden thereto belonging, paieth euery yeere to saint Marke, fifteene

hundred crownes. The streetes of the citie are not paued, which maketh it

with the quantitie of the gardens, to seeme but a rurall habitation. But

there be many faire buildings in the Citie, there be also Monasteries both

of Franks and Greekes. [Sidenote: S. Sophia is a Cathedral church of

Nicosia.] The Cathedrall church is called Santa Sophia, in the which there

is an old tombe of Iaspis stone, all of one piece, made in forme of a

cariage coffer, twelue spannes long, sixe spannes broad, and seuen spannes

high, which they say was found vnder ground. It is as faire a stone as euer

I haue seene.

The seuenth day we rid to a Greeke Frierie halfe a mile without the towne.

It is a very pleasaunt place, and the Friers feasted vs according to their

abilitie. These Friers are such as haue bene Priests, and their wiues dying

they must become Friers of this place, and neuer after eate flesh, for if

they do, they are depriued from saying masse: neither, after they haue

taken vpon them this order, may they marry againe, but they may keepe a

single woman. These Greekish Friers are very continent and chast, and

surely I haue seldome seen (which I haue well noted) any of them fat.

The 8. day we returned to Arnacho, and rested there. [Sidenote: Monte de la

Croce.] The 9. after midnight my company rid to the hill called Monte de la

Croce (but I not disposed would not go) which hill is from Arnacho 15.

Italian miles. Vpon the sayd hill is a certaine crosse, which is, they say,

a holy Crosse. This Crosse in times past did by their report of the Island,

hang in the ayre, but by a certaine earthquake, the crosse and the chappeil

it hung in, were ouerthrowen, so that neuer since it would hang againe in

the aire. But it is now couered with siluer, and hath 3. drops of our

lordes blood on it (as they say) and there is in the midst of the great

crosse, a little crosse made of the crosse of Christ; but it is closed in

the siluer, you must (if you will) beleeue it is so, for see it you cannot.

This crosse hangeth nowe by both endes in the wall, that you may swing it

vp and downe, in token that it did once hang in the aire. This was told me

by my fellow pilgrimes, for I sawe it not.

The 10. at night we went aboard by warning of the patron: and the 11. in

the morning we set saile, and crept along the shore, but at night we

ankered by reason of contrary windes.

[Sidenote: Limisso.] The 12. we set saile toward Limisso, which is from

Salines 50. miles, and there we went on land that night.

The 13. and 14. we remained still on land, and the 15. the patrone sent for

vs; but by reason that one of our company was not well, we went not

presently, but we were forced afterward to hire a boate, and to ouertake

the ship tenne miles into the sea. At this Limisso all the Venetian ships

lade wine for their prouision, and some for to sell, and also vineger.

[Sidenote: Carrobi.] They lade also great store of Carrobi: for all the

countrey thereabout adioning, and all the mountaines are full of Carrobi

trees, they lade also cotton wooll there. [Sidenote: Vulture.] In the sayd

towne we did see a certaine foule of the land (whereof there are many in

this Island) named in the Italian tongue Vulture. It is a foule that is as

big as a Swanne, and it liueth vpon carion. The skinne is full of soft

doune, like to a fine furre, which they vse to occupie when they haue euill

stomocks, and it maketh good digestion. This bird (as they say) will eat as

much at one meale as shall serue him fortie dayes after, and within the

compasse of that time careth for no more meate. The countrey people, when

they have any dead beast, they cary it into the mountaines, or where they

suppose the sayd Vultures to haunt, they seeing the carion doe immediately

greedily seize vpon it, and doe so ingraft their talents, that they cannot

speedily rise agayne, by reason whereof the people come and kill them:

sometimes they kill them with dogs, and sometimes with such weapons as they

haue. This foule is very great and hardy, much like an Eagle in the

feathers of her wings and backe, but vnder her great feathers she is onely

doune, her necke also long and full of doune. She hath on the necke bone,

betweene the necke and the shoulders a heape of fethers like a Tassell, her

thighs vnto her knees are couered with doune, her legs strong and great,

and dareth with her talents assault a man. [Sidenote: Great pleny of very

fat birds.] They haue also in this Island a certaine small bird, much like

vnto a Wagtaile in fethers and making, these are so extreme fat that you

can perceiue nothing els in all their bodies: these birds are now in

season. They take great quantitie of them, and they vse to pickle them with

vineger and salt, and to put them in pots and send them to Venice and other

places of Italy for presents of great estimation. They say they send almost

1200. Iarres or pots to Venice, besides those which are consumed in the

Island, which are a great number. These are so plentifull that when there

is no shipping, you may buy then for 10. Carchies, which coine are 4. to a

Venetian Soldo, which is peny farthing the dozen, and when there is store

of shipping, 2 pence the dozen, after that rate of their money. [Sidenote:

The Famagustans obserue the French statutes.] They of the limites of

Famagusta do keep the statutes of the Frenchmen which sometimes did rule

there. And the people of Nicosia, obserue the order of the Genoueses, who

sometimes also did rule them. All this day we lay in the sea with little

wind.

The 16. we met a Venetian ship, and they willing to speake with vs, and we

with them, made towards each other, but by reason of the euil stirrage of

the other ship, we had almost boorded each other to our great danger.

[Sidenote: Cauo Bianco.] Toward night we ankered vnder Cauo Bianco, but

because the winde grew faire, we set saile againe presently.

[Sidenote: Another Cion.] The 17. 18. 19, and 20 we were at sea with calme

sommer weather, and the 20. we had some raine, and saw another Cion in the

element. [Sidenote: A ship called el Bonna.] This day also we sawe, and

spake with a Venetian ship called el Bonna, bound for ciprus.

The 21. we sailed with a reasonable gale, and saw no land vntil the 4. of

Nouember. [Sidenote: A great tempest.] This day we had raine, thunder,

lightening, and much wind and stormie weather, but God be praised we

escaped all dangers.

[Sidenote: Candia, Gozi.] The 4. of Nouember we had sight of the Island of

Candia, and we fell with the Islands called Gozi, by south of Candia.

[Sidenote: Antonie Gelber departed this life.] This day departed this

present life, one of our company named Anthonie Gelber of Prussia, who

onely tooke his surfet of Cyprus wine. This night we determined to ride a

trie, because the wind was contrary, and the weather troublesome.

The 5. we had very rough stormie weather. This day was the sayd Anthonie

Gelber sowed in a Chauina filled with stones and throwen into the sea. By

reason of the freshnes of the wind we would haue made toward the shore, but

the wind put vs to the sea, where we endured a great storme and a

troublesome night.

The 6. 7. and 8. we were continually at the sea, and this day at noone the

wind came faire, whereby we recouered the way which we had lost, and sayled

out of sight of Candia.

[Sidenote: Cauo Matapan. Modon.] The 9. we sailed all day with a prosperous

wind after 14. mile an houre: and the 10. in the morning, wee had sight of

Cauo Matapan, and by noone of Cauo Gallo, in Morea, with which land we made

by reason of contrary wind, likewise we had sight of Modon, vnder the which

place we ankered. This Modon is a strong towne, and built into the sea,

with a peere for litle ships and galleis to harbour in. [Sidenote:

Sapientia.] It hath on the South side of the chanell, the Iland of

Sapientia, with other litle Ilands all disinhabited. The chanell lieth

Southwest and Northeast betweene the Islands and Morea, which is firme

land. This Modon was built by the Venetians, but as some say it was taken

from them by force of the Turke, and others say by composition: [Sidenote:

Coron. Napolis de Romania.] in like case Coron, and Napolis de Romania,

which is also in Morea. This night the Flemmish pilgrimes being drunke,

would have slaine the patrone because he ankered here.

The 11. day we set saile againe, and as we passed by Modon, we saluted them

with ordinance, for they that passe by this place, must salute with

ordinance, (if they haue) or els by striking their top sailes, for if they

doe not, the towne will shoot at them. [Sidenote: Prodeno. Zante and

Cephalonia.] This day toward 2. of the clocke wee passed by the Island of

Prodeno, which is but litle, and desert, vnder the Turke. About 2. houres

before night, we had sight of the Islands of Zante and Cephalonia, which

are from Modon one hundreth miles.

The 12. day in the morning, with the wind at West, we doubled between

Castle Torneste, and the Island of Zante. [Sidenote: Castle Torneste vnder

the Turke.] This castle is on the firme land vnder the Turke. This night we

ankered afore the towne of Zante, where we that night went on land, and

rested there the 13. 14. and 15. at night we were warned aboord by the

patrone. This night the ship tooke in vitailes and other necessaries.

The 16. in the morning we set saile with a prosperous wind, and the 17. we

had sight of Cauo de santa Maria in Albania on our right hand, and Corfu on

the left hand. This night we ankered before the castles of Corfu, and went

on land and refreshed our selues.

[Sidenote: The description of the force of Corfu.] The 18. by meanes of a

friend we were licenced to enter the castle or fortresse of Corfu, which is

not onely of situation the strongest I haue seene, but also of edification.

It hath for the Inner warde two strong castles situated on the top of two

high cragges of a rocke, a bow shoot distant the one from the other: the

rocke is vnassaultable, for the second warde it hath strong walles with

rampiers and trenches made as well as any arte can deuise. For the third

warde and vttermost, it hath very strong walles with rampires of the rocke

it selfe cut out by force and trenched about with the sea. The bulwarkes of

the vttermost warde are not yet finished, which are in number but two:

there are continually in the castle seuen hundred souldiours. Also it hath

continually foure wardes, to wit, for the land entrie one, for the sea

entrie another, and two other wardes. Artillerie and other munition of

defence alwayes readie planted it hath sufficient, besides the store

remaining in their storehouses. The Venetians hold this for the key of all

their dominions, and for strength it may be no lesse. This Island is very

fruitfull and plentifull of wine and corne very good, and oliues great

store. This Island is parted from Albania with a chanell, in some places

eight and ten, and in other but three miles. Albania is vnder the Turke,

but in it are many Christians. All the horseman of Corfu are Albaneses; the

Island is not aboue 80. or 90. miles in compasse.

The 19. 20. and 21. we remained in the towne of Corfu.

The 22. day wee went aboord and set saile, the wind being very calme wee

toed the ship all that day, and toward Sunne set, the castle sent a

Fragatta vnto us to giue vs warning of three Foistes comming after vs, for

whose comming wee prepared and watched all night, but they came not.

The 23. day in the morning being calme, wee toed out of the Streight,

vntill wee came to the olde towne, whereof there is no thing standing but

the walles. There is also a new Church of the Greekes called Santa Maria di

Cassopo, and the townes name is called Cassopo. It is a good porte. About

noone wee passed the Streight, and drew toward the ende of the Iland,

hauing almost no wind. This night after supper, by reason of a certaine

Hollander that was drunke, there arose in the ship such a troublesome

disturbance, that all the ship was in an vprore with weapons, and had it

not bene rather by Gods helpe, and the wisedome and patience of the

patrone, more then by our procurement, there had bene that night a great

slaughter. But as God would, there was no hurt, but onely the beginner was

put vnder hatches, and with the fall hurt his face very sore. All that

night the wind blew at Southeast, and sent vs forward.

The 24. in the morning wee found ourselues before an Island called Saseno,

which is in the entrie to Valona, and the wind prosperous.

The 25. day we were before the hils of Antiueri, and about sunne set wee

passed Ragusa, and three houres within night we ankered within Meleda,

hauing Sclauonia or Dalmatia on the right hand of vs, and the winde

Southwest.

The 26. in the morning we set sayle, and passed the chanell between

Sclauonia and Meleda, which may be eight mile ouer at the most. This Iland

is vnder the Raguses. At after noone with a hard gale at west and by north

we entered the chanell betweene the Iland Curzola and the hilles of

Dalmatia, in which channell be many rockes, and the channell not past 3

miles ouer, and we ankered before the towne of Curzolo. This is a pretie

towne walled about and built vpon the sea side, hauing on the toppe of a

round hill a faire Church. This Iland is vnder the Venetians, there grow

very good vines, also that part toward Dalmatia is well peopled and

husbanded, especially for wines. In the said Iland we met with the Venetian

armie, to wit, tennie gallies, and three foystes. All that night we

remained there.

The 27 we set sayle and passed along the Iland, and towards afternoone we

passed in before the Iland of Augusta, and about sunne set before the towne

of Lesina, whereas I am informed by the Italians, they take all the

Sardinas that they spend in Italy. This day we had a prosperous winde at

Southeast. The Iland of Lesina is vnder the Venetians, a very fruitfull

Iland adioyning to the maine of Dalmatia, we left it on our right hand, and

passed along.

[Sidenote: The gulfe of Quernero. Rouigno.] The 28 in the morning we were

in the Gulfe of Quernero, and about two houres after noone we were before

the cape of Istria, and at sunne set we were at anker afore Rouignio which

is also in Istria and vnder the Venetians, where all ships Venetian and

others are bound by order from Venice to take in their pilots to goe for

Venice. All the sommer the Pilots lie at Rouignio, and in winter at

Parenzo, which is from Rouignio 18 miles by West.

[Sidenote: Parenzo.] The 29 we set sayle and went as farre as Parenzo, and

ankered there that day, and went no further.

[Sidenote: S. Nicolo an Iland.] The 30 in the morning we rowed to Sant

Nicolo a litle Island hard by vninhabited, but only it hath a Monastery,

and is full of Oliue trees, after masse wee returned and went aboord. This

day we hired a Barke to imbarke the pilgrims for Venice, but they departed

not. In the afternoone we went to see the towne of Parenzo, it is a pretie

handsome towne, vnder the Venetians. After supper wee imbarked our selues

againe, and that night wee sayled towardes Venice.

The first of December we past a towne of the Venetians, standing on the

entery to the Palude or marshes of Venice: which towne is called Caorle,

and by contrary windes we were driuen thither to take port. This is 60

miles from Parenzo, and forty from Venice, there we remayned that night.

The second two houres before day, with the winde at Southeast, we sayled

towards Venice, where we arriued (God be praysed) at two of the clocke

after dinner, and landed about foure, we were kept so long from landing,

because we durst not land vntill we had presented to the Prouidor de la

Sanita, our letter of health.

* * * * *

The first voyage or iourney, made by Master Laurence Aldersey, Marchant of

London, to the Cities of Ierusalem, and Tripolis, &c. in the yeere 1581.

Penned and set downe by himselfe.

I departed from London the first day of April in the yeere of our Lord

1581, passing through the Nether-land and vp the riuer Rhene by Colen, and

other cities of Germanie. And vpon Thursday, the thirde day of May, I came

to Augusta, where I deliuered the letter I had to Master Ienise, and Master

Castler, whom I found very willing to pleasure me, in any thing that I

could or would reasonably demaund. He first furnished me with a horse to

Venice, for my money, and then tooke me with him a walking, to shew me the

Citie, for that I had a day to tary there, for him that was to be my guide.

He shewed me first the Statehouse, which is very faire, and beautiful: then

be brought mee to the finest garden, and orchard, that euer I sawe in my

life: for there was in it a place for Canarie birdes, as large as a faire

Chamber, trimmed with wier both aboue and beneath, with fine little

branches of trees for them to sit in, vhich was full of those Canarie

birdes. There was such an other for Turtle dooues: also there were two

pigeon houses ioyning to them, hauing in them store of Turtle dooues and

pigeons. In the same garden also were sixe or seuen fishponds, all railed

about, and full of very good fish. Also, seuen or eight fine fountaines, or

water springs, of diuers fashions: as for fruite, there wanted none of all

sorts, as Orenges, figges, raisons, wallnuts, grapes, besides apples,

peares, fillbirds, small nuts, and such other fruite, as wee haue in

England.

Then did hee bring mee to the water tower of the same Citie, that by a

sleight and deuise hath the water brought vp as high as any Church in the

towne, and to tel you the strange deuises of all, it passeth my capacitie.

Then he brought me to another faire garden, called the Shooters hoose,

where are buts for the long bowe, the cross bowe, the stone bowe, the long

peece, and for diuers other exercises more.

After this, we walked about the walles of the Citie, where is a great,

broade, and deepe ditch, vpon one side of the towne, so full of fish, as

euer I saw any pond in my life, and it is reserued onely for the States of

the Citie. And vpon the other side of the Citie is also a deepe place all

greene, wherein Deere are kept, and when it pleaseth the States to hunt for

their pleasure, thither they resort, and haue their courses with

grayhounds, which are kept for that purpose.

The fift of May, I departed from Augusta towards Venice, and came thither

vpon Whitsunday the thirteenth of the same moneth. It is needlesse to

speake of the height of the mountaines that I passed ouer, and of the

danger thereof, it is so wel knowen already to the world: the heigth of

them is marueilous, and I was the space of sixe dayes in passing them.

I came to Venice at the time of a Faire, which lasted foureteene dayes,

wherein I sawe very many, and faire shewes of wares. I came thither too

short for the first passage, which went away from Venice about the seuenth

or eight of May, and with them about three score pilgrims, which shippe was

cast away at a towne called Estria, two miles from Venice, and all the men

in her, sauing thirtie, or thereabout, lost.

Within eight dayes after fell Corpus Christi day, which was a day amongst

them of procession, in which was shewed the plate and treasure of Venice,

which is esteemed to be worth two millions of pounds, but I do not accompt

it woorth halfe a quarter of that money, except there be more than I sawe.

To speake of the sumptuousnesse of the Copes and Vestments of the Church, I

leaue, but the trueth is, they be very sumptuous, many of them set all ouer

with pearle, and made of cloth of golde. And for the Iesuits, I thinke

there be as many at Venice, as there be in Colen.

The number of Iewes is there thought to be 1000, who dwell in a certaine

place of the Citie, and haue also a place, to which they resort to pray,

which is called the Iewes Sinagogue. They all, and their offspring vse to

weare red caps, (for so they are commaunded) because they may thereby be

knowen from other men. For my further knowledge of these people, I went

into their Sinagogue vpon a Saturday, which is their Sabbath day: and I

found them in their seruice or prayers, very deuoute: they receiue the fiue

bookes of Moses, and honour them by carying them about their Church, as the

Papists doe their crosse.

Their Synagogue is in forme round, and the people sit round about it, and

in the midst, there is a place for him that readeth to the rest: as for

their apparell, all of them weare a large white lawne ouer their garments,

which reacheth from their head, downe to the ground.

The Psalmes they sing as wee doe, hauing no image, nor vsing any maner of

idolatrie: their error is, that they beleeue not in Christ, nor yet receiue

the New Testament. This Citie of Venice is very faire, and greatly to bee

commended, wherein is good order for all things: and also it is very strong

and populous: it standeth vpon the maine Sea, and hath many Islands about

it, that belong to it.

To tell you of the duke of Venice, and of the Seigniory: there is one

chosen that euer beareth the name of a duke, but in trueth hee is but

seruant of his Seigniorie, for of himselfe hee can doe litle: it is no

otherwise with him, then with a Priest that is at Masse vpon a festiual

day, which putting on his golden garment, seemeth to be a great man, but if

any man come vnto him, and craue some friendship at his handes, hee will

say, you must goe to the Masters of the Parish, for I cannot pleasure you,

otherwise then by preferring to your suite: and so it is with the duke of

Venice, if any man hauing a suite, come to him and make his complaint, and

deliuer his supplication, it is not in him to helpe him, but hee will tell

him, You must come this day, or that day, and then I will preferre your

suite to the Seigniorie, and doe you the best friendship that I may.

Furthermore, if any man bring a letter vnto him, hee may not open it, but

in the presence of the Seigniorie, and they are to see it first, which

being read, perhaps they will deliuer it to him, perhaps not. Of the

Seigniory there be about three hundreth, and about fourtie of the priuie

Counsell of Venice, who vsually are arayed in gownes of crimsen Satten, or

crimsen Damaske, when they sit in Counsell.

In the citie of Venice, no man may weare a weapon, except he be a souldier

for the Seigniorie, or a scholler of Padua, or a gentleman of great

countenance, and yet he may not do that without licence.

As for the women of Venice, they be rather monsters then women. Euery

Shoomakers or Taylors wife will haue a gowne of silke, and one to carie vp

her traine, wearing their shooes very neere halfe a yarde high from the

ground: if a stranger meete one of them, he will surely thinke by the state

that she goeth with, that he meeteth a Lady.

I departed from this citie of Venice, vpon Midsommer day, being

the foure and twentieth of Iune, and thinking that the ship would

the next day depart, I stayed, and lay a shippeboord all night, and

we were made beleeue from time to time, that we should this day,

and that day depart, but we taried still, till the fourteenth of July,

and then with scant winde we set sayle, and sayled that day and

that night, not aboue fiftie Italian miles: and vpon the sixteene

day at night the winde turned flat contrary, so that the Master

knewe not what to doe: and about the fift houre of the night,

which we reckon to be about one of the clocke after midnight, the

Pilot descried a saile, and at last perceiued it to be a Gallie of the

Turkes, whereupon we were in great feare.

The Master being a wise fellowe, and a good sayler, beganne to deuise howe

to escape the danger, and to loose litle of our way: and while both he, and

all of vs were in our dumps, God sent vs a merry gale of winde, that we

ranne threescore and tenne leagues before it was twelue a clocke the next

day, and in sixe dayes after we were seuen leagues past Zante. And vpon

Munday morning, being the three and twentie of the same moneth, we came in

the sight of Candia which day the winde came contrary, with great blasts

and stormes, vntill the eight and twentie of the same moneth: in which

time, the Mariners cried out vpon me, because I was an English man, and

sayd, I was no good Christian, and wished that I were in the middest of the

Sea, saying, that they, and the shippe, were the worse for me. I answered,

truely it may well be, for I thinke my selfe the worst creature in the

worlde, and consider you your selues also, as I doe my selfe, and then vse

your discretion. The Frier preached, and the sermon being done, I was

demaunded whether I did vnderstand him: I answered, yea, and tolde the

Frier himselfe, thus you saide in your sermon, that we were not all good

Christians, or else it were not possible for vs to haue such weather: to

which I answered, be you well assured, that we are not indeede all good

Christians, for there are in the ship some that hold very vnchristian

opinions: so for that time I satisfied him, although (they said) that I

would not see, when they said the procession, and honoured their images,

and prayed to our Lady and S. Marke.

There was also a Gentleman, an Italian, which was a passenger in the ship,

and he tolde me what they said of me, because I would not sing, Salue

Regina and Aue Maria, as they did: I told them, that they that praied to so

many, or sought helpe of any other, then of God the Father, or of Iesus

Christ his onely sonne, goe a wrong way to worke, and robbed God of his

honour, and wrought their owne destructions.

All this was told of the Friers, but I heard nothing of it in three daies

after: and then at euening prayer, they sent the purser about with the

image of our Lady to euery one to kisse, and I perceiuing it went another

way from him, and would not see it: yet at last he fetched his course

about, so that he came to me, and offered it to me as he did to others, but

I refused it: whereupon there was a great stirre: the patron and all the

friers were told of it, and euery one saide I was a Lutheran, and so called

me: but two of the friers that were of greatest authoritie, seemed to beare

me better good will then the rest, and trauelled to the patron in my

behalfe, and made all well againe.

The second day of August we arriued in Cyprus, at a towne called Missagh:

the people there be very rude, and like beasts, and no better they eat

their meat sitting vpon the ground, with their legges a crosse like

tailors, their beds for the most part be hard stones, but yet some of them

haue faire mattraces to lie vpon.

Vpon Thursday the eight of August we came to Ioppa in a small barke, which

we hired betwixt Missagh and Salina, and could not be suffered to come on

land till noone the next day, and then we were permitted by the great

Basha, who sate vpon the top of a hill to see vs sent away. Being come on

land, we might not enter into any house for victuals, but were to content

our selues with our owne prouision, and that which we bought to carie with

vs was taken from vs. I had a paire of stirrops, which I bought at Venice

to serue me in my journey, and trying to make them fit for me, when the

Basha saw me vp before the rest of the companie, he sent one to dismount

me, and to strike me, whereupon I turned me to the Basha, and made a long

legge, saying, Grand mercie Signior: and after a while we were horsed vpon

litle asses, and sent away, with about fiftie light horsemen to be our

conduct through the wildernesse, called Deserta foelix, who made vs good

sport by the way with their pikes, gunnes, and fauchins.

That day being S. Laurence day we came to Rama, which is tenne Italian

miles from Ioppa, and there we stayed that night, and payed to the captaine

of the castell euery man a chekin, which is seuen shillings and two pence

sterling. So then we had a new gard of souldiers, and left the other.

The house we lodged in at Rama had a doore so low to enter into, that I was

faine to creepe in, as it were vpon my knees, and within it are three

roomes to lodge trauellers that come that way: there are no beds, except a

man buy a mat, and lay it on the ground, that is all the prouision, without

stooles or benches to sit vpon. Our victuals were brought vs out of the

towne, as hennes, egges, bread, great store of fruite, as pomgranates,

figges, grapes, oringes, and such like, and drinke we drue out of the well.

The towne it selfe is so ruinated that I take it rather to be a heape of

stones then a towne.

Then the next morning we thought to haue gone away, but we could not be

permitted that day, so we stayed there till two of the clocke the next

morning, and then with a fresh gard of souldiers we departed toward

Ierusalem. We had not ridde fiue English miles, but we were incountred with

a great number of the Arabians, who stayed vs, and would not suffer vs to

passe till they had somewhat, so it cost vs for all our gard aboue twentie

shillings a man betwixt Ioppa and Ierusalem. These Arabians troubled vs

oftentimes. Our Truchman that payed the money for vs was striken down, and

had his head broken because be would not giue them as much as they asked:

and they that should haue rescued both him and vs, stood sill and durst do

nothing, which was to our cost.

Being come within sight of Ierusalem, the maner is to kneele downe, and

giue God thankes, that it hath pleased him to bring vs to that holy place,

where he himselfe had beene: and there we leaue our horses and go on foote

to the towne, and being come to the gates, there they tooke our names, and

our fathers names, and so we were permitted to go to our lodgings.

The gouernour of the house met vs a mile out of the towne, and very

curteously bade vs all welcome, and brought vs to the monasterie. The gates

of the citie are all couered with yron, the entrance into the house of the

Christians is a very low and narrow doore, barred or plated with yron, and

then come we into a very darke entry: the place is a monastery: there we

lay, and dieted of free cost, we fared reasonable well, the bread and wine

was excellent good, the chambers cleane, and all the meat well serued in,

with cleane linnen.

We lay at the monasterie two days, Friday and Saturday, and then we went to

Bethlem with two or three of the friers of the house with vs: in the way

thither we saw many monuments, as:

The mountaine where the Angell tooke vp Abacuck by the haire, and brought

him to Daniel in the Lions denne.

The fountaine of the prophet Ieremie.

The place where the wise men met that went to Bethlem to worship Christ,

where is a fountaine of stone.

Being come to Bethlem we sawe the place where Christ was borne, which is

now a chappell with two altars, whereupon they say masse: the place is

built with gray marble, and hath bene beautifull, but now it is partly

decayed.

Neere thereto is the sepulchre of the innocents slaine by Herod, the

sepulchres of Paul, of Ierome, and of Eusebius.

Also a little from this monasterie is a place vnder the ground, where the

virgine Mary abode with Christ when Herod sought him to destroy him.

We stayed at Bethlem that night, and the next day we went from thence to

the mountaines of Iudea, which are about eight miles from Ierusalem, where

are the ruines of an olde monasterie. In the mid way from the monasterie to

Ierusalem is the place where Iohn Baptist was borne, being now an olde

monasterie, and cattell kept in it. Also a mile from Ierusalem is a place

called Inuentio sanctæ crucis, where the wood was found that made the

crosse.

In the citie of Ierusalem we saw the hall where Pilate sate in iudgement

when Christ was condemned, the staires whereof are at Rome, as they told

vs. A litle from thence is the house where the virgin Mary was borne.

There is also the piscina or fishpoole where the sicke folkes were healed,

which is by the wals of Ierusalem. But the poole is now dry.

The mount of Caluaria is a great church, and within the doore thereof,

which is litle, and barred with yron, and fiue great holes in it to looke

in, like the holes of taverne doores in London, they sit that are appointed

to receiue our money with a carpet vnder them vpon a banke of stone, and

their legges a crosse like tailors: hauing paid our money, we are permitted

to go into the church: right against the church doore is the graue where

Christ was buried, with a great long stone of white marble ouer it, and

rayled about, the outside of the sepulchre is very foule, by meanes that

euery man scrapes his name and marke vpon it, and is ill kept.

Within the sepulchre is a partition, and in the further part thereof is a

place like an altar, where they say masse, and at the doore thereof is the

stone whereupon the Angell sate when he sayde to Marie, He is risen, which

stone was also rowled to the doore of the sepulchre.

The altar stone within the sepulchre is of white marble, the place able to

confeine but foure persons, right ouer the sepulchre is a deuise or

lanterne for light, and ouer that a great louer such as are in England in

ancient houses. There is also the chappell of the sepulchre, and in the

mids thereof is a canopie as it were of a bed, with a great sort of

Estridge egges hanging at it, with tassels of silke and lampes.

Behinde the sepulchre is a litle chappell for the Chaldeans and Syrians.

Vpon the right hand comming into the church is the tombe of Baldwine king

of France, and of his sonne: and in the same place the tombe of

Melchisedech.

There is a chappell also in the same church erected to S. Helen, through

which we go vp to the place where Christ was crucified: the stayres are

fiftie steps high, there are two altars in it: before the high altar is the

place where the crosse stood, the hole whereof is trimmed about with

siluer, and the depth of it is halfe a mans arme deepe: the rent also of

the mountaine is there to be seene in the creuis, wherein a man may put his

arme.

Vpon the other side of the mount of Caluarie is the place where Abraham

would haue sacrificed his sonne. Where also is a chapell, and the place

paued with stones of diuers colours.

There is also the house of Annas the high Priest, and the Oliue tree

whereunto Christ was bound to when he was whipt. Also the house of Caiphas,

and by it the prison where Christ was kept, which is but the roome of one

man, and hath no light but the opening of the doore.

Without Ierusalem in the vally of Iosaphat is a church vnder the ground,

like to the shrouds in Pauls, where the sepulchre of the virgin Mary is:

the staires be very broad, and vpon the staires going downe are two

sepulchres: vpon the left hand lieth Iosaphat, and vpon the right hand

lieth Ioachim and Anna, the father and mother of the virgin Mary.

Going out of the valley of Iosaphat we came to mount Oliuet, where Christ

praied vnto his father before his death: and there is to be seene (as they

tolde me) the water and blood that fell from the eyes of Christ. A litle

higher vpon the same mount is the place where the Apostles slept, and

watched not. At the foot of the mount is the place where Christ was

imprisoned.

Vpon the mountaine also is the place where Christ stood when he wept ouer

Ierusalem, and where he ascended into heauen.

Now hauing seene all these monuments, I with my company set from Ierusalem,

the 20 day of August, and came againe to Ioppa the 22 of the same moneth,

where wee tooke shipping presently for Tripolis, and in foure dayes we came

to Mecina the place where the ships lie that come for Tripolis.

The citie of Tripolis is a mile and a halfe within the land, so that no

ship can come further then Mecina: so that night I came thither, where I

lay nine daies for passage, and at last we imbarked our selues in a good

ship of Venice called the Naue Ragasona. We entred the ship the second of

September, the fourth we set saile, the seuenth we came to Salina, which is

140 miles from Tripolis: there we stayed foure dayes to take in more

lading, in which meane time I fell sicke of an ague, but recouered againe,

I praise God.

Salina is a ruinated citie, and was destroyed by the Turke ten yeeres past:

there are in it now but seuenteene persons, women and children. A litle

from this citie of Salina is a salt piece of ground, where the water

groweth salt that raineth vpon it.

Thursday the 21 of September, we came to Missagh, and there we stayed eight

dayes for our lading: the 18 of September before we came to Missagh, and

within ten miles of the towne, as we lay at an anker, because the winde was

contrary, there came a great boat full of men to boord vs, they made an

excuse to seeke for foure men which (they said) our ship had taken from

theirs about Tripolis, but our captaine would not suffer any of them to

come into vs.

The next morning they came to vs againe with a great gally, manned with 500

men at the least, whereupon our captaine sent the boat to them with twelue

men to know their pleasure: they said they sought for 4 men, and therefore

would talke with our maister: so then the maisters mate was sent them, and

him they kept, and went their way; the next morning they came againe with

him, and with three other gallies, and then would needes speake with our

captaine, who went to them in a gowne of crimson damaske, and other very

braue apparell, and fiue or sixe other gentlemen richly apparelled also.

They hauing the Turkes safe conduct, shewed it to the captaine of the

gallies, and laid it vpon his head, charging him to obey it: so with much

adoe, and with the gift of 100 pieces of golde we were quit of them, and

had our man againe.

That day as aforesaid, we came to Missagh, and there stayed eight dayes,

and at last departed towards Candie, with a scant winde.

The 11 day of October we were boorded with foure gallies, manned with 1200

men, which also made a sleeuelesse arrant, and troubled us very much, but

our captaines pasport, and the gift of 100 chekins discharged all.

The 27 of October we passed by Zante with a merrie winde, the 29 by Corfu,

and the third of Nouember we arriued at Istria, and there we left our great

ship, and tooke small boates to bring vs to Venice.

The 9 of Nouember I arriued again at Venice in good health, where I staied

nine daies, and the 25 of the same moneth I came to Augusta, and staied

there but one day.

The 27 of Nouember I set towards Nuremberg where I came the 29, and there

staied till the 9 of December, and was very well interteined of the English

marchants there: and the gouernors of the towne sent me and my company

sixteene gallons of excellent good wine.

From thence I went to Frankford, from Frankford to Collen, from Collen to

Arnam, from Arnam to Vtreight, from Vtreight to Dort, from Dort to

Antwerpe, from Antwerpe to Flushing, from Flushing to London, where I

arriued vpon Twelue eue in safetie, and gaue thanks to God, hauing finished

my iourney to Ierusalem and home againe, in the space of nine moneths and

fiue dayes.

* * * * *

The passeport made by the great Maister of Malta vnto the Englishmen in the

barke Raynolds. 1582.

Frere Hugo de Loubeux Verdala, Dei gratia sacræ domus hospitalis sancti

Ioannis Hierosolymitani, magister humilis, pauperumque Iesu Christi custos,

vniuersis et singulis principibus ecclesiasticis et secularibus,

archiepiscopis, episcopis, ducibus, marchionibus, baronibus, nobilibus,

capitaneis, vicedominis, præfectis, castellanis, admiralijs, et

quibuscunque triremium vel aliorum nauigiorum patronis, ac ciuitatum

rectoribus, potestatibus ac magistratibus, cæterisque officialibus, et

quibuscunque personis cuiusuis dignitatis, gradus, status et conditionis

fuerint, vbilibet locorum et terrarum constitutis, salutem.

Notum facimus et in verbo veritatis attestamur, come nel mese di Maggio

prossime passato le nostre galere vennero dal viaggio di Barberia, doue

hauendo mandato per socorrere a vn galionetto de Christiani che hauea dato

trauerso in quelle parti, essendo arriuati sopra questa isola alla parte de

ponente trouarono vno naue Inglesa, sopra cargo de essa il magnifico

Giouanni Keale, et Dauid Filly patrono, volendo la reconoscere che naue

fosse, han visto, che se metteua in ordine per defendersi, dubitando che

dette nostre galere fossero de inimici: et per che vn marinaro riuoltose

contra la volonta de detti magnifico Giouanni Keale et Dauid Filly, habbi

tirato vn tiro di artiglieria verso vna de dette galere, et che non se

amangnaua la vela de la Maiestra secondo la volonta de detti magnifico

Giouanni Keale et Dauid Filly patrono, furimensata detta naue nel presente

general porto di Malta, secondo l'ordine del venerando Generale de dette

galere, et essendo qua, monsignor Inquisitore ha impedita quella per conto

del sancto officio, et si diede parte alla santita di nostro signor

Gregorio papa xiij. A la fin fu licenciata per andarsene al suo viaggio.

Han donque humilmente supplicato detti magnifico Giouanni Keale et Dauid

Filly per nome et parte delli magnifici Edwardo Osborn senatore et Richardo

Staper merchanti Inglesi della nobile citta di Londra, et anco di Tomaso

Wilkinson scriuano, piloti, nocheri, et marinari, gli volessimo dare le

nostre lettere patente et saluo condutto, accioche potranno andare et

ritornare quando gli parera commodo con alcuna roba et mercantia a loro

benuista: si come noi, essendo cosa giusta et che retornera commoda a

nostra relligione et a questi forrestieri, per tenor de li presenti se gli

habiamo concesse con le conditione però infra scritte, videlicet:

Che ogni volta che detti mercadanti con sopradetta naue o con altra non

porterano mercantie de contrabando, et che constara per fede authentica et

con lettere patente de sanita, poteran liberalmente victualiarse de tutte

le victuarie necessarie, et praticare in questa isola et dominij, et poi

partisene et seguire suo viaggio per doue volessero in leuante o altroue,

come tutti altri vaselli et specialmente de Francesi et aitri nationi, et

die venderi et comprare qual si voglia mercantia a loro benuista.

Item, che potera portare poluere de canone et di archibuso, salnitro,

carboni di petra rosetta, platine de rame, stagno, acciale, ferro, carisée

commune, tela grossa bianca per far tende de galere, balle de ferro de

calibro, petre de molino fine, arbore et antenne de galere, bastardi et

alteri. Et in conclusione, hauenda visto che loro per il tempo che

restarano qua, si portorno da fideli et Catholici Christiani, et che sua

sanctita habbia trouata bono il saluo condutto del gran Turko a loro

concesso, per il timor della armata Turkesca et di altri vaselli de

inimici, inherendo alla volonta di sua sanctità, et massime per che hauera

de andare et passare per diuersi lochi et tanto lontani come Ingilterra,

Flandra, et tutti patri di ponente, et in altroue, a noi ha parso farle le

presente nostre lettere patente com fidele conuersatore nostro, accio piu

securamente et sensa obstaculo possa andare et ritornare quando li parera

con detta naue o con altre, a loro benuista. Per tanto donque tutti et

ciascun di voi sudetti affectuosamente pregamo, che per qual si voglia de

vostra iurisditione, alla quale detto magnifico Giouanni Keale et Dauid

Filly anome quo supra con la naue et marinari de detti loro principali o

altri caschera, nauigare, passare, et venire sicuramente, alla libera,

sensa alcuno disturbo o altro impedimento li lasciate, et facciate

lasciare, stare, et passare, tornare, et quando li parera partire, talmente

che per amore et contemplatione nostra il detto magnifico Giouanni Keale a

nome quo supra con le naue, marinari, et mercantia non habbi difficulta,

fastidio et ritentione alcuna, anzi se gli dia ogni agiuto et fauore, cosa

degnadi voi, giusta, et a noi gratissima, de recompensaruila con vagule et

maggior seruitio, quando dall'occasione ne saremo rechiesti. Et finalmente

commandammo a tutti et qual si voglia relligiosi et frati de nostra

relligione di qual si voglia conditione, grado et stato che siano, et a

tutti riceuitori et procuratori nostri in tutti et qual si voglia priorati

nostri deputati et deputandi in vertu di santa obedientia, et attuti nostri

vassalli et alla giurisditione di nostri relligione sogetti, che in tale et

per tale tenghino et reputino il detto magnifico Giouanni Keale a nome vt

supra, naue, marinari, et mercantia, sensa permittere, che nel detto suo

viaggio, o in alcun altro Iuogo sia molestato, o in qual si voglia manera

impedito, anzi rutte le cose sue et negotij loro sian da voi agioutati et

continuamente fauoriti. In cuius rei testimonium Bulla nostra magistralis

in cera nigra præsentibus est impressa. Datæ Melitæ in conuentu nostro die

duodecimo Mensis Iulij. 1582.